My Sailing Canoe Rigging
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- I turned one of our canoes into a sailing canoe a few years back, but it would not sail to windward. So, I decided to move the leeboard nearly 3 feet forward, and that did the trick. Now, I can sail to windward like the best of them, feeling plenty secure in winds under 10 mph. With this rig I can convert our canoe into a capable daysailer, and easily remove the rigging to revert back to a regular canoe.
Thank you for sharing this, a lot of useful engineering knowledge can be harnessed.
Lots of tips and tricks for us all, so thanks for sharing.
Lovely canoes by the way 👍🙂.
Thank you. I hope to rig the Ripple II canoe I just finished building for sailing. I'll share what I come up with.
I just bought my second canoe; actually it' a Grumman sport boat/canoe (love it), and I'm just gathering info on a sailing rig which I plan to accomplish next spring. I'm an older senior but that shouldn't stop anyone from having a vision and courage. Your video is very informative, I learn mucho, gracias for your time.
Thanks Lucio. Good luck on the project. Best advice is to mount the leeboard as close to the center of effort (roughly midpoint) of the sail as possible.
is it a Grumman Fiberglass or aluminum?
@@markkromer1238 It's aluminum
@@backwoodbasics9383 In my opinion and past experience mounting the leeboard as far forward as possible .
This is the beauty of sailing canoes. They can be done in so many different ways. Looks great!
Thanks. It's a fun way to sail inexpensively, when conditions are right.
This came up in my feed, while I was looking for sprit rigs. This is a really nice design for sailing, which is what I mostly do, as opposed to canoeing.
- The rudder assembly is straightforward, and looks sturdy. The trailer clip to hold the tiller on is brilliantly effective and inexpensive. (I might steal that idea 😁).
- The bilge board is also a straightforward, sturdy, elegant design. I might suggest that you cut a plastic cutting board into two fender washers (say 50mm diameter) to put over the carriage bolt, on either side of the bilge board. Then when you tighten up the wing nut, they would act as compression fittings. Tight enough to hold the board down, but would allow it to kick up if you hit an obstruction. (you could do that to the rudder also)
- The sailing rig is also very elegant, but it is a lateen rig. Great for lightweight craft, but not what I was looking for.
- Your mast construction is good, but I might recommend a birds mouth mast construction. It would be just as light, but would be better at taking the stresses from the wind. (especially strong unexpected gusts) If someone didn't want to build a hollow mast, they could put a larger conduit in the mast step, and mount a solid mast inside of that. (No shame in having yours halyards showing 😁)
All in all, this is a great rig, with lots of great ideas. Thanks for sharing, and enjoy your new build. Anytime on the water, is a good time. 👍
Thanks Doug for the ideas. You sound like you know sailing rigs. I am building a new canoe now, and hope to rig it, too, for sailing in a similar fashion, but simpler, and without the fixed mast step.
Thanks for that and yes, I definitely learnt something and appreciate your contribution. Five stars and 2 thumbs up!!!
Much appreciated. I'm looking forward to rigging a new canoe to sail this spring.
Thanks for sharing your design!
Awesome thanks Brother... i learnt a lot
glad to hear. I hope someday to build a sailing rig for my new canoe. I sold that one.
Thanks for sharing. The changes fron boat 1 to boat 2 are very informative. You did a lot of nice work, and put it into good materials. That will pay off in the long run.
Good to hear, Tom. I sold that green canoe, and hope to make a new sail rig for the new design. We moved to a city lot, with lots of changes, so I have neglected canoe projects and videos. I hope to get back on-track one of these days.
@@backwoodbasics9383 Please find 2 more numbers:
1 Number of dying men who said " I wish I mowed the lawn more"
2 Number of expiring gentlemen who said "I wish I sailed more"
See what I mean? LOL
On my home-built sailboat the lee-board is ahead of the mast . Comments from other sailors is how close I can reach .
Thank you, I was looking for ideas for making a mass.
Thanks Mark, I did get something out of this, a few things actually.
(Liked and Subscribed 👍)
Thanks Lester. We are in the process of moving, so I have been too busy to add more content. I hope to have something in the near future on my new plywood canoe build, and a completely removable sailing rig.
Thanks for sharing mate, greetings from the jolly old UK 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Greetings! I see that that canoes are quite popular over there.
That's a pretty canoe even if it doesn't have very much rocker nor lots of spring in the sheer. The low ends will not catch the wind and I bet is a great lake boat.
Thanks. That was my first prototype. I redesigned it with more rocker (2"), a slight V to the keel, and more sweep to the sheer. I am working on a new book on how to build Ripple II, which is made from 2 sheets of 4mm marine plywood (plus a bit more for the stems).
That's a hell of a mast!
Yeah. Overkill, I know. But it's very light. A much thinner, solid mast, with an external halyard, would be sufficient.
Thanks for sharing , love it ,interesting ,love the canoe designs , would like to convert my Swift to sailing but fear wrecking it, so I got some ideas from you, have builtdinghy and foam Catamaranhulls before….can’t type but…..thanks again….Jim
Thanks Jim. I built 2 new canoes of my same design, using plywood strips. I intend to make an entirely removable sailing rig. We are moving now, so it will have to wait until things settle down.
A roller-furling sail and mast would be much lighter. There would be no need for a boom, and it would operate about as easily. Hobie uses that system on their Adventure Island boats and I think it might be easier for DIYers to build. Much could be done with ABS pipe. But your system looks a lot nicer. It's nice to have carpentry skills I suppose.
I recommend a mast that drops in & will drop out if you turn turtle. Otherwise it is difficult to right the boat, especially if the mast is stuck in the mud !
Good thinking Chas. It would be easy enough to make. I would not want to capsize, so I hold onto the sheet with my hand, ready to let go if things get dicey. I'm also an "under 10mph winds" kind of sailor now, in my old age.
awesome video, you deserve more subscribers
It is aluminum
Nice one
Thanks Tony.
Very nice…thanks
Much appreciated. I sold this canoe, by the way, to someone who had never sailed, or owned a canoe. hopefully it works outs well for him.
Very nice project and vid, big up.
I've got same size sail attached to cheap inflatable kayak which is way
easier to roll over. The river I sail has rapid current up to 6 mph and I wanna go upstream faster so Im going to build even bigger sail this summer.
Thanks! These small sailing rigs are a blast. I am building a new canoe now, and hope to rig it similarly this summer. Good luck with your project!
great video I want to convert a canoe to a sailer thank you. Do you offer the plans on building by the rudder/tiller set up
😊👍👍
Thanks for the instruction....One question...how much does the canoe made out of the 4mm marine grade plywood weigh...ballpark?
60 pounds. The plywood is light, but the fiberglass sheathing both inside and outside adds pounds. Makes it super strong though.
Very interesting, I am looking at building a sailing canoe from ply. Was wondering if you fit a dagger board instead of the lee board?
I almost cut a hole in the bottom for a daggerboard, when my leeboard was not working well. After moving it forward, I stuck with the leeboard. If it is a dedicated sailing canoe, a daggerboard may be the better choice. You just want to be sure of the proper location, before cutting a hole in the canoe bottom. I am building my second plywood canoe now, and hope to have a DIY book on how I built it this spring. Good luck!
Great video. I purpose built mine to have a centreboard case. If you are interested my build videos are at the link below. I am still tweaking things, and am currently thinking through a furling sail rather than the lug I currently have. I find it very hard to paddle when the sail is down as the lug fills my narrow seat space.
ua-cam.com/video/dn0bqAUIC5I/v-deo.html
Thanks Lee, I will check it out. I toyed with building a centerboard case, when I thought that my leeboard design was to blame for the poor performance to windward. After moving it forward, and realizing it was a positioning issue, I gave up on a permanent centerboard trunk. I like the idea of having a more dual-purpose canoe.
I have a Lifetime Wasatch canoe, 13-ft long. What would be the ideal length for the mast, and also for the boom?
I'm no expert, Ruby, just a seat-of-the-pants designer. Since our canoes are 14' long, and the mast and boom is 8', I would think 7 feet all around might work well, since it takes little to propel a light canoe. I like safety over performance.