Who the heck did that previous slopy plumbing??please there's sometimes when you're required to call the pros first time...cause to fix somebody screw up might cost more than a real pro would charge you the first time...great job... plumber plumber
@Plumb Hero. Thanks for these full length videos where you can take the time to show and explain more of what you are doing and why. Thanks for your hard work both in your trade and sharing your knowledge.
Not saying I would have done it differently, but just a note from a carpenter. You can drill out that 2x4 bottom plate if the joists is on the far side of the wall, just don't touch the joist. In a situation where you need it, that could get your plumbing another inch back into the wall. Enabling it to be hidden by the base board. Would be a really specific remodel situation I think, but it might help you one day.
@caseyschmidt6532 depending on the framer the bottom plate of a load bearing wall can be biased to one side. If that's the case and you're on the right side of the wall that gives you 2 inches of clear space on the 2x4 that you can drill out without touching the joist. Add in a half inch of drywall and you can hide the pipe at the bottom of the wall with some tall baseboard. Or just add a second 1/4 inch layer of drywall over the original.
I came to comment section too early... So far everything said is pretty nice... Will check back. No matter how good or what situation... there's always going to be one... Great job man... Like HydroNYC would say... "I got into a Shituation here". Shout out to broski
Wow, just watched the full video. Two years ago I had to do the sand thing in my ADU, after a handyman installed a straight pipe without a trap. I researched the heck out of it, and now feel vindicated in that it seems that I've done it right. Thanks!
Hey listen man you did a good job for 1200 bucks for the expect you did a damn good job let me tell you gotta love those automatic vents they work every time
I just used the oatey aav box and it works nicely/looks great. I like that the aav is threaded in so if it fails or i want to snake to the sewer from there i can.
On of my early jobs when first got into plumbing somebody tried gluing pvc together with abs glue and the kitchen drain fell apart in the crawl and flooded it out. It wasnt that tight over by the drain but the only access point that was big enough to fit anyone was at the other side of the house. So you had to crawl theough the whole crawl space just to get to it. I was trying to work off of a couple 2x6 s to stay dry but either way i was covered in mud was a pain in the ass. Finally after like two hours or so the guy i was working with came down and gave me a hand.
I have the same issue in my laundry room. Previous owners half assed all the work they did and they relocated the laundry room to where it is now. I'm sure our plumbing is equally terrible but I just can't find a good plumber locally in northern NJ to get it done right.
I replaced the kitchen sink drain at my folks' house, and it was in an awful crawlspace. They have semi feral cats that they feed, and there were two dead ones in the crawlspace. Long dead, so they weren't rotting, but it was still unnerving, and there was cat crap all over, as they come in to stay out of the cold during the winter. The drain was 2" or 1 1/2" galvanized (I can't remember for sure), and it was so clogged inside it was unreal. I replaced it with 2" PVC. It was tricky, as it's about 20-25 feet from the cast iron sewer thing (riser?), and at an angle. The water supply pipes were 1/2" galvanized, and also incredibly clogged, so I replaced that with Pex, which was much easier. I HATE WORKING IN CRAWLSPACES. But at least I reduced that normal 1/2 hour sink draining time to about 15 seconds. Edit: Ooh! 100th comment! Do I get a prize? 😁
In Ohio you cannot use an air admittance valve for a laundry box only a laundry sink or vent through the roof. An air admittance does not allow air to be pushed out when it first drains through the trap. It will cause drainage issues or push the air admittance valve guts backwards causing it to have the same sewer smell issue.
You may already know but When your doing a 45° offset measure the center to center distance that it would take to 90 elbow straight from point A to point B then multiply it by 1.414. This will give you the center to center length of your 45 travel piece of pipe. Take off for your fittings and that is the length of your cut piece of pipe. Hopefully i explained this in a manner that is understandable.
I like to use the math on 45*s. If your pipe is 2’ away from your riser, put the end of your tape inline with the riser and measure two feet inline with the pipe. Mark that point, add an additional 1 1/2” for the take off on a 2” 1/8 bend and mark it. Cut the second mark and glue your fitting on. It’s called squaring it off. You should be dead on. A test tee for a c/o and two pieces of pipe to form a developed length of a little over 29” too (minus the sweep and the 45*). Just pop it right in.
I need to do something similar for my ex's house. Prev. owner put in a util. sink w/o a vent. When I routed out the drain and got it flowing, I could hear the glug glug which pulled most of the water out of the trap. Fun.
I have a similar setup like that at my mom's, there was on old vent that gave off a slight sewer smell so i replaced it with 2 different vents so far. No more sewer smell but both replacements have been causing the drain line to not clear out fast enough. Any ideas?
I think we might be having the same issue. Whenever we run our dishwasher, clothes washer, or drain bunch of water down the kitchen sink at once we get that sewage smell from the laundry room. How do I go about verifying this is the fix for that? We tried to clear the line but that didn’t work, no blockages were found.
Good job, I would have drilled and chiseled out the bottom plate for the sewage and supply lines, but if you aren't getting paid a decent amount I understand, and use a cold air return vent cover for the vent, and drywall or plaster where needed.
Laundry room, where the washing machine is. America has big houses and pretty much every house, condo, and even most modern apartments have their own washer dryer with water and sewer lines.
@@roots4x Ow ok it's water and sewer for the washing machine. We have those, just not put in this nice little white box, and our washing machine didn't need hot water.
Using a schluter valve isn't going to change the smell, that allows air into the pipe but it does not allow the gas to escape... If the issue is gas is escaping..
I'm not saying you did it wrong, but as an experience DIY'er, I bet you could have run a 20 foot accordion flex hose the whole way and cover it with drywall.
Even though at that house it probably doesn't matter, it would be a plumbing code violation as all P-Traps have to be in on the same floor as the item it serves and to be at least 6" above floor. Also, you can't have more than 48" of stand pipe. But if you're a handyman, ignoring all that would be fine as you wouldn't have a license to lose .
@osheros he did mention that the owners don't know what they will do with that wall, yet. Technically, you need an access panel for that. I was a little disappointed that there was not any support on the piping above the San tee.
I dont understand the need for a AAV when the washing machine drain is open to the room. You simply put a hose in the big drain, the big drain is the vent.
The new P trap prevents airflow - which is what you want to prevent sewer gas from exiting from the drain. The AAV is installed downstream from the P trap to allow air to enter but not exit the drain.
First step would be to get rid of the mold and fix the rot, before its re plumbed. Now the new plumbing has to be cut out to fix the rot. Waste of time and money
I wonder if he could have put the vent under the house since it was already capped off with that ventilation system , not sure if that would be a code violation where your at
Not sure what to do with it = homeowner will put it behind a wall
Who the heck did that previous slopy plumbing??please there's sometimes when you're required to call the pros first time...cause to fix somebody screw up might cost more than a real pro would charge you the first time...great job... plumber plumber
El plomero chambon did it
Mexicans
I give good deal.
The lowest bidder for the contractor building the house who just happens to be drinking buddies with the inspector.
That’s what I was saying
@Plumb Hero. Thanks for these full length videos where you can take the time to show and explain more of what you are doing and why. Thanks for your hard work both in your trade and sharing your knowledge.
Not saying I would have done it differently, but just a note from a carpenter. You can drill out that 2x4 bottom plate if the joists is on the far side of the wall, just don't touch the joist. In a situation where you need it, that could get your plumbing another inch back into the wall. Enabling it to be hidden by the base board. Would be a really specific remodel situation I think, but it might help you one day.
What do you mean by, on the far side of the wall?
@caseyschmidt6532 depending on the framer the bottom plate of a load bearing wall can be biased to one side. If that's the case and you're on the right side of the wall that gives you 2 inches of clear space on the 2x4 that you can drill out without touching the joist. Add in a half inch of drywall and you can hide the pipe at the bottom of the wall with some tall baseboard. Or just add a second 1/4 inch layer of drywall over the original.
Sitting in the infant bathtub was genius 😂
That crawl space is a thing of nightmares
Most are-
That's convenient compared to the ones I've been under
I came to comment section too early... So far everything said is pretty nice... Will check back.
No matter how good or what situation... there's always going to be one...
Great job man... Like HydroNYC would say... "I got into a Shituation here". Shout out to broski
Love that guy!
Thanks
@@PlumbHero it's funny how we all go home from plumbing and watch other people plumb
Thanks, very helpful, I was running into a similar situation, and wasn't sure what to do
Glad it helped
Did they ask you to mitigate the gray water in the crawl space? Or is it common to have standing water in there?
Not a plumbers' job, that's a job for sanitation.
I couldn't believe the state of that crawl space. How is that building not condemned and demolished? Can't be healthy
Yikes. Thats some pretty substantial water damage. Thats gonna be pricey.
Wow, just watched the full video. Two years ago I had to do the sand thing in my ADU, after a handyman installed a straight pipe without a trap. I researched the heck out of it, and now feel vindicated in that it seems that I've done it right. Thanks!
Awesome! Thanks for watching
For what you had to work with? You just did an excellent job for these people.
Hey listen man you did a good job for 1200 bucks for the expect you did a damn good job let me tell you gotta love those automatic vents they work every time
I just used the oatey aav box and it works nicely/looks great. I like that the aav is threaded in so if it fails or i want to snake to the sewer from there i can.
The height of the auto vent is significant. Does it have to be that high?
On of my early jobs when first got into plumbing somebody tried gluing pvc together with abs glue and the kitchen drain fell apart in the crawl and flooded it out. It wasnt that tight over by the drain but the only access point that was big enough to fit anyone was at the other side of the house. So you had to crawl theough the whole crawl space just to get to it. I was trying to work off of a couple 2x6 s to stay dry but either way i was covered in mud was a pain in the ass. Finally after like two hours or so the guy i was working with came down and gave me a hand.
I have the same issue in my laundry room. Previous owners half assed all the work they did and they relocated the laundry room to where it is now. I'm sure our plumbing is equally terrible but I just can't find a good plumber locally in northern NJ to get it done right.
I replaced the kitchen sink drain at my folks' house, and it was in an awful crawlspace. They have semi feral cats that they feed, and there were two dead ones in the crawlspace. Long dead, so they weren't rotting, but it was still unnerving, and there was cat crap all over, as they come in to stay out of the cold during the winter. The drain was 2" or 1 1/2" galvanized (I can't remember for sure), and it was so clogged inside it was unreal. I replaced it with 2" PVC. It was tricky, as it's about 20-25 feet from the cast iron sewer thing (riser?), and at an angle. The water supply pipes were 1/2" galvanized, and also incredibly clogged, so I replaced that with Pex, which was much easier. I HATE WORKING IN CRAWLSPACES. But at least I reduced that normal 1/2 hour sink draining time to about 15 seconds.
Edit: Ooh! 100th comment! Do I get a prize? 😁
In Ohio you cannot use an air admittance valve for a laundry box only a laundry sink or vent through the roof. An air admittance does not allow air to be pushed out when it first drains through the trap. It will cause drainage issues or push the air admittance valve guts backwards causing it to have the same sewer smell issue.
You may already know but When your doing a 45° offset measure the center to center distance that it would take to 90 elbow straight from point A to point B then multiply it by 1.414. This will give you the center to center length of your 45 travel piece of pipe. Take off for your fittings and that is the length of your cut piece of pipe. Hopefully i explained this in a manner that is understandable.
1) hot on the left, cold on the right, 2) p00p doesn't flow uphill 3) payday is on Friday.
I like to use the math on 45*s. If your pipe is 2’ away from your riser, put the end of your tape inline with the riser and measure two feet inline with the pipe. Mark that point, add an additional 1 1/2” for the take off on a 2” 1/8 bend and mark it. Cut the second mark and glue your fitting on. It’s called squaring it off. You should be dead on.
A test tee for a c/o and two pieces of pipe to form a developed length of a little over 29” too (minus the sweep and the 45*). Just pop it right in.
You could put a 6 x 6 louvered grill over the Studer vent.
You are learning. Getting good at it. Every job is different. Improvise.
I need to do something similar for my ex's house. Prev. owner put in a util. sink w/o a vent. When I routed out the drain and got it flowing, I could hear the glug glug which pulled most of the water out of the trap. Fun.
I have a similar setup like that at my mom's, there was on old vent that gave off a slight sewer smell so i replaced it with 2 different vents so far. No more sewer smell but both replacements have been causing the drain line to not clear out fast enough. Any ideas?
How tall does an air admittance valve have to be?
WHATS THE AIR air valve used on that???? CAN U LINK IT FOR ME
Oatey sure vent
I think we might be having the same issue. Whenever we run our dishwasher, clothes washer, or drain bunch of water down the kitchen sink at once we get that sewage smell from the laundry room. How do I go about verifying this is the fix for that? We tried to clear the line but that didn’t work, no blockages were found.
Make sure it’s not something as simple as the hot water heaters anode rod giving the hot water a bad smell. 👍🏼
At 1:23 what did you say ???
You said something like "I know in a lot of places you can't use a admin valve" ?? What is that ??
Air admittance valve. It's a plumbing vent that doesn't need to go through the roof.
Good job, I would have drilled and chiseled out the bottom plate for the sewage and supply lines, but if you aren't getting paid a decent amount I understand, and use a cold air return vent cover for the vent, and drywall or plaster where needed.
I thought the bottom plate was a beam. I would hate to compromise that beam when the entire house is sitting on these beams on top of the crawl space.
Measure twice, cut once.
Great job first of all! I wonder if they make a box (kind of like that laundry box) for that cheater vent?
Thanks! They do
Wouldn’t the air admittance valve let sewer gas in still since it’s downstream of the trap? I’m not sure why my brain ain’t grabbing
Good question, it’s a one way mechanical valve. Air can go in but not out
What this installation is use for ? I never see one of these in my country.
Laundry room, where the washing machine is. America has big houses and pretty much every house, condo, and even most modern apartments have their own washer dryer with water and sewer lines.
@@roots4x Ow ok it's water and sewer for the washing machine. We have those, just not put in this nice little white box, and our washing machine didn't need hot water.
Using a schluter valve isn't going to change the smell, that allows air into the pipe but it does not allow the gas to escape... If the issue is gas is escaping..
There was no trap previously, so his washing machine discharged into an interior vent pipe, essentially.
Have u had ant issues with soft poop stoppages with this install
I'm not saying you did it wrong, but as an experience DIY'er, I bet you could have run a 20 foot accordion flex hose the whole way and cover it with drywall.
I need this same work done at my home with same issues.
dont miss going in crawlspaces everyday… man was this a gnarly one
👍👍👍 good job.
Great video!! Well done!
Only critique is maybe add a clean out but well done!
Brilliant work ❤
Great job 💯👍🏾👊🏿
Why couldnt you have put the trap under the floor? Not a plumber so wondering?
Even though at that house it probably doesn't matter, it would be a plumbing code violation as all P-Traps have to be in on the same floor as the item it serves and to be at least 6" above floor. Also, you can't have more than 48" of stand pipe. But if you're a handyman, ignoring all that would be fine as you wouldn't have a license to lose .
Shouldn't that AAV be in an access box so it can be changed when it fails in the future?
@osheros he did mention that the owners don't know what they will do with that wall, yet. Technically, you need an access panel for that. I was a little disappointed that there was not any support on the piping above the San tee.
@@osheros: You obviously didn't watch the whole video.
@@terabyte7979 thanks for the knowledge 🙏 reason I asked.
Good job.
For anyone curious about why he put cold on the left, the full video explains that it was just a brain fart moment
There has to be a crawlspace tax, that one wasn’t too bad height wise
Don't need a sweep on 2". 3" or larger.
Oh come on. That crawl space was a dream. Tons of room.
WOW that stud is also not even holding it is full on rotted it should been replaced or reinforced and the seal plate too...
I dont understand the need for a AAV when the washing machine drain is open to the room. You simply put a hose in the big drain, the big drain is the vent.
The new P trap prevents airflow - which is what you want to prevent sewer gas from exiting from the drain. The AAV is installed downstream from the P trap to allow air to enter but not exit the drain.
I got struck by lightning in a crawl space once. Ask me how it happened.
Rats are going to crawl in from the crawl space. You need to seal it back.
another great thing for nasty crawlspaces are plastic sleds.
protect the floor! ain't nobody want glue/primer stains
First step would be to get rid of the mold and fix the rot, before its re plumbed. Now the new plumbing has to be cut out to fix the rot. Waste of time and money
I don’t see a clean out on the drain
That was a great job, thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Lot of unecessary work
I hope you plumbers make a million
Is that PEX A or PEX B? I'm just trying to learn, not about to talk shit
You reinstalled exact same box that was there
I wonder if he could have put the vent under the house since it was already capped off with that ventilation system , not sure if that would be a code violation where your at
I believe vent needs to be at least 18-24” above the drain otherwise water can exit through the vent.
Did all that work with a rotted stud still in place😂
Baby bathtub 😂😂😂
AAV not sized correctly!!
Yes it is
"A lot of questionable stuff at the house"
Hell yeah dude! Most of it was what YOU were doing!!! 😑
How so?
Hey boi use better washer hoses
Serial killer..