How To Install 240V AC Disconnect Box
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
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As part of an MRCOOL Hyper Heat Ducted system installation, I will walk you through the complete process of running a 240V circuit from your panel to a disconnect box outside to power your AC unit. This is relevant for mini-split systems and standard AC units as well.
Sections
0:00 Parts Needed for A 240V Disconnect Installation
1:31 Mounting The Disconnect Box and Drilling Through A Brick Wall
4:17 Running The 6/2 Romex From The Panel To The Disconnect
7:17 Wiring The AC Disconnect Box
10:07 Wiring The AC Unit And Connect Liquidtight Conduit
11:06 Wiring The New 50 Amp Breaker At The Panel
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White wires used as hot should be marked with red or black tape or marker indicating to all that they are not a neutral.
It's #6, not #4 - he technically can't re-identify them and meet code. He should still do it, but I don't think it will fly code wise technically.
@@ZacKoch Got a code reference? Maybe you were looking at 200.6 which has different rules for 6 vs. 4. However that section is for grounded conductor identification, and here it's an ungrounded conductor.
@@RJ-ej1nr After another look, think you're right - my apologies!
Good tutorial, a couple of notes. Best practice is to field identify your white wire with red tape to signify it isn’t a neutral. Also it is best practice to keep grounds and neutrals separated on the bus bars, even if the panel is bonded, especially if it is already set up that way.
the guys is a bozo
Other than not marking the 2 white wires black or red , excellent job my friend ... Thx
Thanks!
Another way to reducing blow outs in the brick or block, is to use a long 1/4" masonry bit thats longer than the brick or block. Then use the correct bit you need. From both sides. I know that it's an extra step, but it works very well.
NEC 200.7(C)(1) The use of insulation that is white [..] for other than a grounded conductor [..] shall be permitted only [..] if part of a cable assembly that has the insulation permanently reidentified to indicate its use an ungrounded conductor [..]. Maybe different where you are, but where I am that would have to be followed for the installation you showed.
I always just tape wrap the cable at both ends, quick, easy and clean.
1. Surge Protector.
2. GFCI breaker.
3. I would fail you in an inspection for leaving a white wire as a hot lead..
Mark it in black or red. On BOTH ends....
Agree 100% with #3. #2 though = what about “Exception No. 2: Ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection shall not be required for listed HVAC equipment. This exception shall expire September 1, 2026.”
It's #6, not #4 - he technically can't re-identify them and meet code. He should still do it, but I don't think it will fly code wise technically.
You should tape the white wire with red tape so if someone else is informed that it is HOT.
If they get into the boxes.
That’s true on #4, however #6 you technically aren’t allowed to recolor with tape and are supposed to use the correct color wire.
Taping is better than nothing, but couldn’t be compliant in this situation.
@@thespencerowen I think you're thinking only about the EGC - see NEC 250.119. This would fall under 200.7 which would allow for reidentification with red tape.
Elementary mistake not phase taping the white wire but maybe Scott did it for comments. UA-cam likes comments. I know he knows better.
I highly recommend installing a surge protector. My favorite ones are made by ICM and Rectorseal.
Surge protectors are required to be installed if you're a LG Excellence Contractor or a Mitsubishi Diamond Contractor
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Good video. I suggest that even if it is a main panel that you separate the ground and neutral wires and put them on separate busses. Therefore letting the bonding screw do the boding. If at some time this should no longer be the main panel then it saves a lot of work transferring the ground wires away from the neutral wires since all you would have to do is remove the bonding screw. This comes in handy when maybe a transfer switch for a whole house generator is added upstream later or even when a outside disconnect switch is added at a later date. An electrician needs to be a "what if"? guy Thanks ! I enjoy your video's I have even learned a few tricks. Who says you can't teach and old dog new tricks an "old retired guy", Fifty plus years as an electrician .
Perfect timing...I totally need to do this.
Best of luck with the project 👍
Running the stranded wires to the AC unit sounds like a better option as opposed to the lugs as suggested. From the video the lugs extend past the mounting body potentially making it easier for the lug ends to touch, especially when replacing the cover.
Very helpful, thank you.
If you're by yourself you can avoid blowout by starting with the pilot bit only, all the way through the brick, and then hole saw one side only a little way in, and then finish hole sawing on the other side. Or if you know how thick your brick is you can just set the depth gauge on the rotary hammer to be slightly shorter than the brick.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Another great one, Scott. You're staying busy these days.
When using a white for a power feed shouldn't you be wrapping the ends of the white wire with black tape?
Yep, that is recommended and missed on this video.
For #4 or larger, using tape to change color is required. For #6 or smaller you need to use the correct color wire.
you should identify your white wire with red or black tape
I have a 100 amp sub panel in the garage freshly installed. Kept the ground and neutrals separated. So where does my 'ground' wire go then? To the bare ground bar or neutral bar with the other white wires?
thanks for the video. can you purchase the lug covers for existing panels?
Thanks for this vid. I have to replace an existing outlet that has a breaker outside with a service disconnect (since the breaker seems to break somewhat often) so this is a huge help.
Maybe it's an existing video, but I have a ranch house, main panel in garage on main floor (whereas yours is in basement) and both the attic and basement are accessible for running romex. Do you have any existing videos or perhaps might make one re: advice about running wires from attic or basement... sub panel yes or no, and similar. Thanks a ton.
This is a single/split phase system here, there is no phase 1 or phase 2. Refer to the two incoming hots/bus bars as leg 1 or leg 2.
Always re identify your whites used as a hot wire to a hot color tape or marker at both ends.
You should raise (with conduit) the disconnect up to a comfortable working height.
Thanks for the feedback.
great video. I'm investigating a similar project. A couple of questions. For 240v, are you not required to "indicate" or mark the white wire as a hot wire with red or black tape? Also. I see several articles that romax does not allow the proper free surface area inside conduit and cannot be used in conduit. Is the material you used for reference different? If so, could you share it?
It looks like your disconnect may not have the required 30" working space width as required by NEC 110.6(2) between the A/C unit and the adjacent wall projection.
I was planning to install one of their DIY mini split systems next year to replace my old and busted Unico air/water forced air system, but now I’m thinking about doing this instead. Looks like Lowe’s sells this kit with pre-charged lines even though they don’t call it “DIY!”
The pre-charged lines are the key 👍
Is the any code on the height from the ground on the outside disconnect?
I thought that Premade whip with #8 THHN @ 75° column - is good for 50 A. It didn’t need to really be swapped out to #6.
Yeah, I wanted to match the Romex and #8 is right on the edge so nice to have a little buffer. I am curious to see what thing actually pulls.
Good upgrade. I believe it is less maintenance than a furnace.
Can this same set up work with a 50Amp plug outlet for like an RV or Welder ? Can these 50amp fuses be used for an outlet disconnect?
You could do something similar but I would then just install a NEMA 14-50 plug on the exterior. amzn.to/3OnygV2 and probably step up to the Hubbell NEMA 14-50 which is the best on the market and nice to have higher quality when you are pulling the heavy loads. amzn.to/480G9qD
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Could you use 50 amp buss fuses in a 60A AC disconnect box? Or does it require a breaker
Isn’t that disconnect too low to the ground? If your area has snow that could easily be buried in the winter
Nah. I think he still lives in Illinois. It would never snow there:)
a 90 degree bend for that LB wouldve been so much nicer
11:55 I certainly hope those "yellow conductors" aren't conductive :) And at 13:32, does the black conductor for the oven have a split in it? It definitely doesn't look smooth.
People have already mentioned that you didn't mark the neutral as a hot (red/black) conductor. From my understanding, leaving Romex wires in the jacket when passed through a conduit may cause heat buildup and may be a code violation in some places. You did install the disconnect unusually low. I don't know if there are height codes for disconnects. I know in some jurisdictions, it is required to install a 120 volt outlet near the disconnect for service equipment. Although, techs are moving to battery powered equipment, so I don't know how necessary that is these days.
Thanks for the feedback!
Were is the link for the complete project?
Should be up in 1 week. Still need to install a 15 Amp 240V circuit, run the lines, and install the thermostat.
❤️ all the comments
How come you did not mark the white wire with black tape to identify as a hot
He’s DYI. They miss some codes. Also, Tape is not legal to phase #6 and smaller. #4 and larger - phase tape is ok. #6 and smaller needs to be done by permanent means. Like a Red sharpie.
@9:45: Ugh. You know better than that, Scott. Both of those white conductors should have black or red tape to mark them as hot. (And @10:22 and @12:43, where you can also see another unmarked hot white on another 2-pole breaker in the panel. Looks like a bad habit.)
Separately, I don't understand why you didn't pay a little more for 6/3, especially since the breaker you showed was neither AFCI nor GFCI.
This is not an everyday home repair, judging by all the comments.
Great video, but wayyy too much information on how to drill the holes 😅
Totally pedantic, so just ignore this: typical 240v is called "split *single*-phase" because the two hots aren't actually 2 diffrent phases in the same way that 3-phase power really is 3 different phases. But plenty of licensed electricians will use that technically wrong terminology. Ok I got it out of my system now.