Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
Why I'm OBSESSED with Wax based Chain Lube | Full Guide
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 лют 2022
- Chatting about how I use wax based chain lube to reduce bike cleaning times.
Shoutout to Adam from Zero Friction Cycling for his research on this topic: zerofrictioncycling.com.au/
📈 My Cycling Coaching services: www.nero.club/coaching
I'm on the gram: / jessecoyle
or follow me on Strava: / strava
ALSO!!!! Make sure to fully degrease your chainrings, cassette, AND jockey wheels to make sure you don't contaminate the newly waxed chain when switching from typical lube to wax lube.
Absolutely right!
Probably another added bonus for you is to try and apply it in cross chain big cog - big ring manner. The idea is to flex and open up the chain in order to get more lubrication inside the pins and rollers. The guys at Silca did measured doing it this way made the chain a little bit heavier than applying it sort of in a straight chain line manner, meaning more lubrication is inside it. The more lubrication in there, the less likely dirt and grime gets inside, the better the efficiency, the better the drivetrain life.
*the more wax inside
damn, brilliant idea...i always grease it in 2*10 gear))
That's interesting; the main problem with drip wax lubes is poor penetration to the places where wear and friction actually take place. That's why in tests drip waxes sometimes don't do any better than dry chains; the innards of the chain *are* dry. What I do with a new chain is strip the factory grease off like shown here, then immersion wax the new chain; after the chain is on the bike I "top off" with drip wax to help rid the system of contamination rather than repeatedly breaking the chain. I think I'll add the cross chaining thing to the routine
If you do this Izzat - I'll do it too 😎
To improve penetration of wax lube into the rollers, you can put the bottle into a glass of warm to hot water before applying. This should offset the slightly thicker texture of wax based lubes and give similar penetration into the rollers as an oil based one
Absolutely agree wax works amazing.
I've been using Squirt for years and have recently moved on to Smoove, and loving this one. Squirt was good but I feel Smoove last a lot longer and works way better in the wet for me.
Just yesterday I did 200km in the soaking wet weather and smoove has lasted, it kept the chain clean and quiet. Squirt on the other hand still kept the chain clean but only lasted roughly 80km in the soaking wet until it felt dry and started squeaking.
For dry weather both works as well and last as long.
Since I've been using Squirt longer I can add that a chain for me has lasted 7000km
Squirt gunk gets blacker but is quicker to clean, the Smoove gunk feels thicker so will take slightly longer to clean but all in all you'll essentially clean how Jesse mentioned on how to clean it.
Maybe this helps people on the fence trying to choose over these two.
Pro tip: heat up your chain using a hair dryer!!
It takes only 2 minutes for your chain to heat up to the point where it's just too hot to touch. Then apply your Wax based lube as you would normally (cross chain with no pressure) and it will flow straight to the deep core of those chainlinks because of the heath. When it's cold wax lube is quite 'thick' and doesn't always reach those cores, which is the only down side of those lubes.
or you could just microwave the lube for 10 seconds....
you can put a lube bottle into the hot water a minute
@@Sills71 I think a cold chain will suck the heat out of the lube before it has a chance to fully penetrate. Heating the lube, in addition to the chain, would help though.
ha ha
@@Sills71 metal in the microwave is a bad idea.
Just catching up on your videos which I'm enjoying. I used Squirt for over 20 years and switched to immersive waxing a year ago and I'll never go back. Your concern about master links is very valid though. I've been using a Connex Link by Whipperman on all of my bikes since the early 2000s and I've never had a single failure. It makes waxing a breeze. I think you'd love it. Immersive waxing is so much easier than most people think and it's better in pretty much every way.
You give credit to Zero Friction Cycling which is where I get all of my information about it. Adam is brilliant, honest, and a good guy. I recommend everyone interested in this stuff watch his videos as well.
I fully agree it is a pretty amazing experience after years of regular cleaning / degreasing / greasing. I've been using it on my 'hybrid' Giant Roam XR-1 for way over a year now. After the initial setup that is rather picky, it has just been wonderful. This bike I use in the "it could get dirty" scenario. Never before have I seen a bike with a frame so dirty and a drive train so clean after rides. Of course I clean the frame, but a deep clean of the drive train is often not needed and the chain sounds better than in the old scenario.
For the upcoming season I plan to also apply this to my road bike but still need to investigate the quicklink situation (like: does it have one...) because the chain needs to come of for the clean ...
Will definitely try this. Living in a small condo means trying to wash my bike and degrease the chain is a nightmare. Thanks!
Thank you Jesse I just followed this on my first ever road bike. The key is definitely the proper cleaning. When I watched a few other videos they have a lot more wax come off when riding and that's definitely because they aren't cleaning properly (even though it is a pain to dispose of the chemicals)
100% agree. Been doing this for a few months and haven't 'properly' washed my bike since I started and have ridden through a Japanese winter. Using Finish Line Ceramic Wax Lube.
Great video! I recently changed over to wax based chain lube (Squirt) and agree 100% that it's much easier to clean your bike after riding. Definitely make sure the chain is completely clean or you'll just have a mess and the wax lube won't work correctly. Cross chaining works best while applying👍
My friend Jesse to help you with your question most people won't clean their chain ! Cleaning and mechanical work on the bike is a hobby into the hobby of cycling with its industry in tools and accessories. Also not only that they consider factory Shimano oiling superior to every other solution so they set and forget ! Also I have seen more than enough times re-lubing chain without cleaning using wet lube during summer !
Have been using Squirt for a couple of years. Yep you get a bit of black residue on the chain & cassette, but it never looks that bad. Never have a squeaky chain and the lube stays in place in the rain. I have tried other lubes and gone back to Squirt. Once the chain is cleaned properly it’s super easy until it’s time for a new chain. Chain and cassette never shows much wear, but I usually replace the chain every 6000km or so as I have crashed from one breaking… not fun.
Only extra thing I do is use a small ultrasonic cleaner as it gets the factory grease and dirt out much easier and better than shaking.
Started with wax based lube aprox 2 years ago...huge upgrade compared to conventional lubrificants...One year ago i tryed waxing my chain and thats what i kept doing. Love that method..im doing three chains at a time. Not using a slow cooker, just use a waterbath...it works...I relube the chain with squirt lube if necessary (x4-5) before i swap the chain out for a fresh one. Ill do about 4 waxings/year, its not that much work and it will keep your bike clean and fast!
I’ve been using wax & your exact process for bike cleaning for over 20yrs, all my bikes & drivetrains are always pristine & super clean & trouble free. My main road bike has over 25,000 miles on original drivetrain & chain & is still like new, no issues
Thank you for this! Been wanting to switch to wax for quite some time now (heck, I already even bought a chain wax already).
Thanks Jesse, As much as i enjoy degreasing a chain to look brand new, this seems like a pretty significant tie saving. will give this a go.
Jesse, believe me, once set-up is done, hot waxing is super easy and quick. I use the "two chain system", one on the bike, one waxed and ready to go.
Waxing my chain was the best change I ever made in cycling. It saves an incredible amount of time cleaning, it ensures that degreasers never get anywhere near critical bearings on my bike, and it extends the life of my chains quite dramatically (about double). As you say,, the only thing is when you use a new chain you have to make sure that you get every single trace of the original lubricant off the chain. Otherwise the wax will not adhere to the metal. I can remove the chain from my bike, immerse it in molten wax, and put it back on my bike in about 10 minutes. You need a couple of tools and a rice cooker. A rice cooker is a lot faster than a slow cooker.. I think immersion works better than dripping the wax lube onto the chain.
Yup. If on speed i just apply liquid wax on chain, but i do immerse them at times into parafin-wax (recipe got from Oz Cycle) . It fills links much better then liquid wax. Chain in VERY silent after that. I usually do that when i'm doing bike maintenance as it's time consuming process.
Chains and cogs lasts a lot longer.
The rice cooker might be safe, but you’ve got to be careful not to overheat wax. It can explode and burn you if it gets way too hot
You make perfect sense, i will try it and report back -- doing my drivetrain overhual right now.
As a delivery courer with an ebike, I love wax lube! I take off the chain every week and swap it with another one, alternating between the two. I never had a chain snap at the quick link!
Great content Jesse, straight to the point
I had no idea this was a thing. Keen to try it now. Thanks.
I love the squirt lube but the only problem i find is after cleaning with a rag and reapplying i get a build up behind the chainrings which is a pain to remove. Definitely the best lube i've ever used and it really quietens the drivetrain.
Love the channel. Keep up the good work.
Yeh that black dirty wax does build up over time behind the chainrings and on the jockey wheels. I’ll wipe it off every 6 months or so. It’s superficial doesn’t seem to affect performance of the components
Great informative video… you mentioned having to re-use quick links. I have been immersion waxing my chain for some time and picked up some Connex links that can be used indefinitely. They are made by Wipperman. I have them in 11 speed, but I also see that they make 12 speed.
They're wonderful but they got expensive AF
omg you are so right, i been doing it for some time as well and was often wondering as well why so few people do it
I do the hot wax dip to my clean chain then use the wax drip lube every 200-300 miles of dry riding or after a wet ride. You can also use the Paar chain cleaning device and just put the wax drip lube in it to reapply the wax after wiping off all the exterior wax/dirt from the chain...save the lube in 2nd bottle for following cleanings.
The chain lube thing I believe I use , silca synergetic lube wiping the chain down in between each ride last a around 2-300km before needing more . And if need to really clean water and soap gets it off no need for degreaser.
Wiping your bike over with a wet wipe. You wouldn’t get away with that round here even in the summer. My bike can come back looking like I’ve ridden on a cross course for an hour. No way a wet wipe would clean it off. Not without it turning it into a grinding paste and marring the frame.
This time of year it’s a battle keeping the salt off the bike. For that you need soap ,water, gentle hose and good wash mits and a few good quality micro fibre cloths takes 5-10mins.
And in the summer it’s so dusty you can actually feel the sand sticking to your legs let aone the bike.
Great vid, exactly the procedure I have been doing for over a year now, so much easier than the old degeasing and oiling chain. No more chainring tattoos!.
I use the full Ozcycle formulae and procedure. Yes it takes time, but the results are brilliant.
Hey I use paper towels too! Nice to know I'm not weird. Works fine as long as you stick to paved roads and avoid inclement weather.
Yep; I switched to using this and it’s fantastic
Adam Keirin. Zero Friction Cycling is the Oracle on waxing.
I used to use waxed-based lube and found it eventually gums up drivetrain and jockey wheels and is harder to remove than a dry lube. However, using the suggestion below of heating the chain (or lube) first so it penetrates, plus applying the initial lube with the chain off the bike on a flat surface so it doesn't gunk up other drivetrain parts my help.
@Jesse Coyle Thank you for a very informative review, this information has convinced me to give Squirt (combination on standard and low temperature as in I regularly ride below 5°C) a go. My only fear is because of the messy Irish roads I need wash the bike after each damp / wet ride and I'll wash off the wax followed by a night for drying the water off and another for the re-applied Squirt to dry. How resistant to washing is the wax? Do you re-apply to a dry chain after each wash?
Used to do the slow cooker wax thing.... Only really kept the chain quiet for 150k max. As you said, too much 'faf'. Going to try your method after I run out of the current lubes I have in the shed.
I use wax now. I also now clean my bike with 2TBSP dawn platinum in a 32oz spray bottle. Works perfectly! I do use a suspension cleaner that has some lube in it too.
I use triflow on my derailleurs, linkages, and shift wire. I use shimano high performance grease on all my greasy bits, bearings, etc.
The bike runs smooth.
I use paraffin to degrease, then dip in hot wax. From then on I use a drip based wax lube like you do. Occasionally I will take the chain off and wash in molten wax (not de waxer) I know this works very well because I don't get rear cassette wear. (or chain stretch)
After 55 years, my system finally has simplified to pure paraffin, as sold for canning - the cheap, clear white stuff, Not candles that have stearic acid and things added. Cleaning has been to use Naptha, aka Coleman stove fuel, but since COVID it has been impossible to buy. I would just put the removed chain into a skinny plastic 12oz soda/water bottle, add 2 oz of solvent, agitate, lay on its side to soak for an hour, then drain to another bottle, add another oz and repeat. When solvent stays clean, drain again and remove chain to dry. On an old hot plate and stainless steel pan about 6'' across, with about 3cm of cold wax, lay the chain flat on top; turn on just hot enough to melt, not burn the wax (units vary), and as the wax melts the chain slowly sinks, letting air bubbles within links escape. Stir for a minute, sit not that long, then extract with pre-fixed wire or similar - including the quicklink, lifting slowly to let hot wax drip back down, then lay out on some layers of newspaper to absorb excess. When cool, install on bike, and slowly pedal several yards to release stiffness. No wax solution works as well. Additives add $$$ but with negligible gains in friction reduction or longevity over just paraffin.
Thanks man, just what i needed. I hate degreasing that oil lube all the time. 👍
After years of waxing the crockpot way a bike mechanic here in the UK put me onto Squirt. As he put it in beautiful Anglo-Saxon "Its just like waxing but without all the bollocks and f**king about" I use Smoove on my gravel bike as I find it lasts longer but Ironically I don't find it feels as "smoove" as Squirt so I still use that on my road bike. I did once mix the two on my road chain by accident with no ill effects which is nice to know as Smoove is sometimes hard to get a hold of at a reasonable price.
Thanks for the tips Jesse, I have smoove lube and tried it for a while but clearly never used it properly so always went back to rock n roll lube. I must say degreasing my chain every wk is a mission. I will definitely try your methods and see how it goes! Once you know how to properly do something it seems so simple but I have never had the right advice! Really appreciate it!
In salty and wet Gothenburg, Sweden, I clean my bike once a week during the winter months. Regardless of lube used!
A very helpful video for a returning cyclist. I have a question - Is petrol a good substitute for the mineral turps?
This vlog is exactly what I have been looking for to find out HOW long could I leave the chain with only wiping down with a dry cloth after a wash or does the wash remove the wax? What I have purchased is a synthetic wax so its not the same as other dry lubes which seem to be simply a light oil.
I agree squirt wax is amazing stuff! More time to spend riding and less cleaning. Not the best in rainy conditions however, as the wax tends to go all over the drivetrain.
I currently use Ride Mechanic Bike Mix. Better than Squirt, in that it lasts in the rain, and leaves the chain and cassette squeaky clean.
I also have some immersion waxed chains which are dream to live with. For rewarding just remove the chain, and pour boiling water over it to clean, and re wax. Connect quick link is the best hands down, but near impossible to get at the moment…
Great tips, thanks Jesse. I use Muc Off C3 Ceramic Dry Lube which I believe is wax based as well? And I always wipe the chain and pulleys after every ride as there is some gunk always. If I reapply the lube without degreasing, the chain becomes oily and gunk catches more in time. Plus that's a dry lube, it washes off immediately. I also got the Muc Off Hydrodynamic which apparently it's still wax based but does well in all conditions, but waiting for winter to try it - people do say it makes the chain dark. At least they smell nice and then I have a justification for the 5 cleaning products I also got.
Muc Off tests pretty poorly in multiple tests. Im convinced they're more a marketing company that makes bike products.
Try Smoove the way this guy uses it...its the real deal.
I use the Muc-Off Hydrodynamic on my winter bike (weather in Ireland is terrible in winter) and it does good in wet conditions, it still forms a black gunk layer on the chain and cassette but not as bad as a wet lube. In dry conditions it still makes the chain black but less crap will stick to it than a wet lube. Degreasing between applications almost negates any benefits of using this over a wet lube (I was using the Muc-Off C3 ceramic wet lube on this bike).
I currently use the Muc-Off C3 Ceramic Dry Lube on my dry weather (rare occurrence in Ireland) bike but have ordered some Squirt and intend switching over before our summer arrives. I'm not as happy with the Muc-off dry lube as I was at first, it still needs degreasing between applications and I dont like putting degreaser around my rear mech, wheel bearings or bottom bracket so that's why I'm trying Squirt at least on my dry weather bike.
@@MrJwmurph I've bought a nice bottle of Squirt. My LBS applied it on my last service after a good clean and after 40km the chain is really clean still. Would not have happened with Muc Off. So far so good! Thanks for the recommendation.
Totally agree … I use Silca Super Secret chain lube … great video … thanks
I've always wanted to try paraffin wax on my chain but didn't know they made regular, convenient drip style versions of it. I always just reapplied tons of rock n roll gold and wiped the hell out of the chain to keep it clean and lubed. I'd only really need to deep clean it like once a year cuz I'd wipe the cassette n everything as well, but eventually gunk builds up and you gotta pull out the hose. Been off the saddle for years, I think I'll give my bike a good wash, buy a new chain and install it all caked in paraffin wax, then I'll just top it off with the paraffin based squirt bottle instead :) Not having any expectations going in, just gonna do it and see what happens. If I notice an improvement in cleanliness (and it's cheaper than showering the chain in rock n roll gold), then I'll stick with it.
Been using Squirt Lube for 3 years now. It’s the best. Just gotta make sure you reapply after a wet ride.
Huge fan of Squirt, I've never looked back. I track my gear on Strava and my chains last at least twice as long - seriously. Though I still do a full bike wash a bit more than you ;) Maybe quarterly. Thanks for the degreasing tips!
Really helpful, thank you 🙏
Brilliant helpfull info dude,, yes your right more should look after there chains😊👊❤️🇬🇧
If you do 3 or 4 chains at a time, how do you recommend to store the dry and clean chains potentially for months?
Hehe, I'd like to see you use this minimal cleaning regime in the UK 😅I come back from most road rides looking like I've been doing 4 hours of Cyclocross, bike and rider covered head to toe in road muck
switched to drip on wax (silca) a while back and it is insane how well it works. the fact that I am able to touch my chain without getting filthy hands is so alien to the people I ride with. xD
I don't think the improvement from a high performance lube vs. a high performance drip on wax is extreme, but it feels a little smoother and does not get washed off by a few drops of rain (talking dry lube).
It combines the advantages of a dry and wet lube really. without the drawbacks.
I use Squirt in the spring/summer but for the UK winter it's not really suitable as it washes off every ride and in cold temperatures the chain goes stiff! Pedros Sin Lube for winter, Squirt for summer.
For the day to day maintenance, do you spend any time cleaning your chain rings/cassette? Does much gunk get on these parts?
Bruh I use Smoove wax lube. It's like 15 bucks a bottle. Been using it for like a year now....and U r exactly right!!!
And the rides are smooth the wax lube make it so the wax keeps the chain silent as riding I am ocd and love when riding and it is quiet.
However I was lazy the other day and just wiped the chain with cloth and applied another dose of Smoove lube. And went to ride next day I checked the chain and the rollers was so fricticious or stuck together since I lubed ON TOP of existing lube which had bits of dirt and grind still in between chain links.
Its only my opinion because I'm not sure if when u wipe the chain and apply wax lube the chain is nice and lubed and goo to go? But if u just wipe it chain ur towel w/o gas/mineral spirits how else does the wax get removed from between chain links?
So every week or lil bit more (I'm not a racer but ride frequently ride in summer months from March to December... solo style....but never had issues with the master links being compromised) I take chain off do x2 completely submersed with gas in a bucket. Shake it up. Than rinse. Than do it one or two times with mineral spirits and than shake and dry off than let it hang dry until I'm done with my frame and wheels. And than put it back on and lube it up and it is queit and shifts like butter and my other chain a KMC chain lasted for long time with this process.
Basically my drivetrain I clean the crank, pulleys, and cassette and chain very frequently which is a pain in the ass. But I make it work. Its time consuming but on an off day on bike it's enjoyable just cleaning everything up. The pulleys and cassettes and crank I just brush them with gas (with rear wheel my cassette is pointing toward the ground so gas doesn't seep into bearings cuz I've done that mess put gas into my hub and it just makes it so loud and grindy.) Only grease should be in the hubs and bearings. )))
But yeah avoid getting gas into the bearing workings of bb...freewheel body, hubs, headset.... Just outside parts and the chain is cool for the rollers but since we gonna be applying wax lube into them it's all good.
Anyway def a science. Def a bitch since drivetrain is 100 percent without protection of sand dirt and water on rides so this is basically after 4 yrs of riding what works best for my drivetrain. I shut up now.
Gr8 video.
Tampa FL
Ovr/outz
I use a Connex chain which has a link that can be reused and no tools required. Plus you should always removed the factory grease. That stuff is to stop corrosion in storage not lubricate anything
I highly recommend & provide Connex Wippermann chains on all my premium builds & repair tasks for others . I have plenty of reusable links which have been trouble free to date unless you abuse the bicycle to which it is fitted .With Shimano chains I use KMC links as they make Shimano's chains anyway .
Link pliers are still necessary for Connex Wippermann reusable link removal & in some cases installation , KMC & SRAM also .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 no they don’t require tools. Some of the older style might and maybe for some speeds but not for 9/10/11 speed links. Tool free.
@@Squizzy05 It is easier if you have the pliers for removal but not required for installation . I have osteoarthritis in my wrists .
Yeah right. I haven’t even got a set of the pliers. Have you got a chain holder? That will hold the chain and keep the tension of the link which makes it easier. Can just use a piece of coat hanger wire
Great! What happens when it rains? Does the wax fall off the chain?
I have to say I kind of agree with you but with everything you said I think it's better to hot wax a chain after you have degreased it, and then use squirt type products after that. I like to degrease and hot wax my chain(s) once a month and agree with you always change the quick link they're really cheap and not worth crashing over
Yoo It's Devel Project, awesome bike. Proud Filipino Brand🇵🇭
Agree with you, been using wax lube for just over a year. Still don't like the way the chain always looks grubby, but hey you can't have everything ☺
Hiya. Thanks for the video ... I only wish that I'd seen this a few days ago. I bought a new chain a while back, ordered some wax based lubricant (which looked identical to the stuff you applied on the video) and three days ago fitted the new chain and applied the wax lube without degreasing the chain. Oops. If I was to remove the chain now, would the two step cleaning process you advised remove both the factory grease and the wax based lube I applied so I can start from scratch with a degreased chain again? Or would I need to use both the degreasing products you said to use in the video and a separate product to remove the wax as well? I take on board from the comments that I also need to degrease the jockey wheels to avoid recontamination as well. In retrospect I now fully understand the logic, as I said at the start, I only wish I'd seen this before I started. Thanks again, Phil. UK.
Never had much luck with chain waxing. Squirt lube forms wax balls that stick to everything and are a nightmare to remove. Molten wax seemed fine at first but it only lasted 30km before chain started to sqeak. Neither protect the chain from rusting so I went back to more traditional chain lubes.
Question: is a waxed based lubricant good for mountain biking?
Yes absolutely I use squirt lube and I found it’s better than most and it’s easier and quicker to clean.🚴♀️
Alex. Lencioni
Perth WA.
In well over 10k miles of riding I've never had a quick link actually snap, although recently an old KMC reusable quick link that I'd resused well more than the recommended 3-5 times cracked on one of the outer plates by the pin hole. The other plate was still ok which is why the chain didn't snap. I could sense that something was wrong due to an unusual clicking sound on every complete revolution of the chain, and a quick inspection revealed the problem.
But this link had thousands of miles on it and as I wrote it had been reused many times over the limit, so it was bound to fail. I'm going to continue to use quick links but from now on I'll stick within the recommended reuse limit and hopefully this never recurs. I also don't race, do massive climbs or put enormous pressure on the cranks, so perhaps those who do are far more likely to snap a quick link. I'm actually now using a Connex which is supposed to be reusable up to the life of the chain.
I've also started hot waxing, which means that if I don't ride in muddy, dirty or wet conditions and rewax at regular intervals then my chain's life should be much longer than before, and perhaps even the Connex isn't strong enough to handle that. I'll keep an eye on it and hopefully it won't snap. It's just $8 so perhaps I'll swap it out before the chain expires.
👍🏾I’m a recent squirt wax convert - I’m never going back to lube.
Works nice in California or Australian Outback i guess. i tried squirt lube on my gravel bike chain in Deutschland bro.. didnt work 2 well in wet condotions. Felt like chain started skreeching every 80-100km and absorbed a lot of mud.
Good old Environment friendly chainoil works out best for me.
Agreed (Europe), I'm using it mainly the summer months. Than it works like Jesse says. But during the wet (grimy) months I need to reapply it after one ride. And I wish i could clean my bike with only a wet papercloth! Really need a bucket with soap :)
Would it work if I just ride the new chain without that first step in the bottle (cause I just got a new chain installed and CBF to remove now) and degrease after riding without applying anything until the grease wears out? And when it’s finally dry I start using squirt 🤔 I did 3 rides and can still feel it greasy and can’t hear any squeak even if I didn’t apply anything . Cheers
I have had cleaning tasks etc but haven't cleaned my bicycles due to months not riding & having worsening carpal tunnel syndrome in my wrists . Even motorcycle riding is difficult .
Zero friction cycling has done extensive testing and immersing in wax is the best method from all points of view. Rice cookers create excessive wax heat.
Will this method also work with those ceramic based dry lubes ? Also when cleaning, do you damp the cloth or just dry cloth?
How do you clean the cassette and sprocket before putting the chain on? Just got a new chain and am switching to this type of lube.
What if you live in a rainy country and need to wash your bike with water to get everything from the frame and wheels of, do i need to look out for specific things when using this method?
I've just waxed my chain with hot wax. I know Silca sell Super Secret top up lube between their waxes. But what about if I'm not using Silca in the first place - is there a good top up wax for hot melt waxed chains that is not brand specific?
When you do multiple chains at a time how do you store the ones you don't put on once they're dry so they don't corrode?
Only downside is for ultra distance. Or bikepacking. If it's wet or cold it not really optimal to reapply on the go. But I don't do that anyway so 😅
I just used a bunch of brake cleaner on my chain and waxed it afterwards.
Will this work?
Love the video and have recommended it to someone who is trying to up their chain game. I'd be interested to know why you wouldn't ever give your chain a full deep clean though? Even with a good quality wax lube you're going to get dirt ingress, so surely you want to give it a proper clean out every 1000 - 2000km depending on riding conditions?
Thanks. In theory yes, you could take the chain off and run it through the whole degreasing process again from start to finish. But that's the benefit of using the wax based lube in the first place, the residue on the chain is less abrasive so the chains last longer and therefore don't need degreasing. Doing that is largely just a waste of time when I can already get 4000-5000kms out of a chain without doin it
@@nerocoaching Yes you're right of course, I think it helps but it's a lot more work and for it to be meaningful it has to be quite regular. And is it worth it if getting such good chain life anyway? Questionable for sure.
Personally I think it's worth if if you end up riding in wetter conditions a bit as the dirt ingress is much worse then, but if it's been dry for a long time maybe no need? Living in the UK though, I wonder if I'll ever see such dry periods!!!
Anyway, keep up the good work!
What if I have to clean my bike frame or brakes? Perhaps they gets muddy, and I need to clean them, will the mud, soap and water contaminate the wax on the chain if it happens to touch it?
squirt works fine for me. Want to try silca super secret chain lube, but it costs 30 eur vs 9 eur for squirt. Any experience with Silca?
I always use Rock N Roll dry lube. My drive train stays clean and never turns black with grease.
What if I live in North Wales and not Oz? It's wet here for 6 months of the year. Does this only work for dry weather? I've tried in the past and found it noisy and I had small flecks of rust on the chain. I didn't really give it a chance though tbh.
Once I waxed I never went back. I pretty much do the same as Jesse, except when I rewax my chains, I boil them in water, let them dry, and put on Squirt.
I also use hair dryer to clean chain, so the old wax with debris comes off and i wipe it, after it i apply new wax. Near 1000 km and no chain wear at all
what about my cassettes and chainrings? do I need to super clean them as well or just a regular bike shampoo is enough?
I use Silca Super Secret wax dip tub, I use a Ultrasonic cleaner with degreaser to clean the chain then rinsing well before drying it in the oven on a low heat (70°c - 158°f) to dry. Then I soak the chain in the tub of wax overnight and leave to dry before reinstalling it to my bike.
So you use Silca’s drip wax but you first soak the chain in the wax and then you top up via the bottle applicator after that?
@@ShreddingBliss you can do it like that, but I fully clean my chain and dip it every 200 miles (every week as I use my bike for courier work).
@@MattCantor21 are you storing / re-using the leftover silca drip wax? Otherwise that would prob be a waste to use that much
Thanks for sharing your tips! I currently slow-cooker wax my chain. Will I be ok to use wax base lubed to increase the times between the next full wax? (Ie mix wax based lubes with fully waxed chain)
Yup. I do that. There might be issues with some liquid waxes adhering to parafin wax (if that is what you use). I have one which has teflon and which lasts only for 50-60kms and flakes off, but other parafin-based (Rex Domestique) adheres to chain and wax well.
Do you have any experience with wax in low temperatures (app. 5-10 degrees Celsius)?
Wish I could clean my bike in 2 minutes. Bad weather riding, the Netherlands, results in the need to really clean my bike thoroughly. But do love the chain wax lube as well. And indeed pre cleaning is key, but worth while the work. My preference Silca.
you find silca better that squirt? Where did you bought it? Bikester sells silca for 30 eur while squirt costs only 9 eur at Mantel
@@enotracoon9244 @ Belgian and German bike shops. It’s a hobby, so yes it does cost money 😉
I did what OzCycles did (slow cooker method).
Thought it was a pain. I don't mind doing it once, but after every long ride? Or after every 200km? Naaah.
Will degrease my chain again (I lubed it with oil when I got tired of the slow cooker method) following your or Oz Cycle's protocol (petrol, degreaser, spirits), do the slow cooker once, then just use Squirt or similar after.
Should use acetone after the terps and spirits as that gets rid of the residue they leave
I think acetone or methylated spirits both do the same job. Even isopropyl alcohol too just costs more.
is it bad to use a blow dryer to dry the chain faster instead of waiting 3 hours?
Recently swapped from squirt to using silka super secret wax lube. I find it superior to squirt. Each application last approximately 3-4 hundred Ks, great stuff. The drivetrain runs silky smooth & repels dirt & grim reasonably well. Must admit, on the expensive side but to date worth the extra cash. Give it a try!
Just realized I always used it wrong, thinking just degreasing the chain with a rug would be enough.
@Jesse Coyle : As I just bought a bunch of chains (like 5), how much terpentine and spirits should I be planning for? 500ml or a Liter for all 5 maybe? When storing the waxed chains, have you had any problems with them rusting?
Following up on this, also wondering if anyone has tips on storing the clean chains post turps and metho?
I've been using Squirt for a few months now in dry hot dusty conditions (NZ Summer) on my gravel and MTB but not my road bikes. However I'm concerned about the amount of black stuff that comes off the chain when I run it through the dry rag and it's very soft and I'm picking that a lot of that black gunk is being forced into the links and pins when I'm trying to remove it and actually preventing any of the new Squirt getting in where it's needed, so the new lube just sits on the outside of all the old stuff, only to mix with all the dust and dirt and then be pushed into the links when I try to clean it with the rag. I'm sticking with dry lube on my road bikes until winter when I'll be using a wet lube but still using Squirt on the off road bikes that are exposed to so much dust but would like to know of a good way to clean a chain that has been used with Squirt.
you put too much of the lube and also very importnatn to let it stay overnight before the ride