I've installed these strips under counters many times as a contractor. You only need to connect wires to one end as long as you don't break the strip. Great idea. Some kits come with RGB and remote controller/dimmers so you can tailor the light to the K or color you want. They should be able to be made portable by just setting up with batteries to the value of the adapter.
While it's true that you don't necessarily need to attach the power at both ends, it is possible that with longer LED strips , brightness and voltage can drop toward the end of the strip(especially when chaining strips together). I linked an interesting article describing the problem. One solution to double the possible length of a strip is to attach power to both ends as he did in the video. www.superbrightleds.com/blog/understanding-difference-12-volt-24-volt-led-strip-lights/3070/
Hi Mr. Adam, I am from India. I used to wonder why my desklamp's light used to feel "dead and cold". Now I know that it used a low CRI LED(probably much less than 80). Thank you for this knowledge. UA-cam is a wonderful place. I am now searching ways to make a durable LED tube myself. Usually the manufacturers use a bad quality power to the LED tubes here. and because of that, the tubes die within a few years of purchase...even if the LEDs work mostly fine. I am trying to overcome planned obsolescence and make my 10 year-LED tube on my own.
Fantastic DIY Build! I had been looking at several other DIY attempts, and this is by far the best, most concise and followable one! Thank you Droi Media! I know you are addressing an American audience, I live in Germany and it\s been a little hard finding frosted acrylic tubes here. Been to home stores and Bauhaus stores and they don\t really know what I mean. So far the best translation term I have for anyone else searching in Germany is 'Acryl Rohr Satiniert"/ Thanks!
Thanks for the comment! Keep me posted on what you find - I know a few other folks found clear acrylic tubing and just put a layer of diffusion inside for the same effect. Happy DIYing!
@@DroiMedia Cheers! great suggestion. Will keep you posted what I end up making on this build :) What would be a searchable term for a 'diffusion layer'?
@@SebastianKaye I think they were maybe using lighting/gel diffusion filters (like these: amzn.to/3elKMQn) - but you could probably get away with something cheaper like parchment paper (that you use for cooking).
This is how diy video suppose to be. I just watched a video and 5 minutes in on a 6 minute video the guy was just talking nonsense and zero how to...lol. Thanks for the idea.
With cheaper strips the mounting tape is crap - glue it down with epoxy. Just put the epoxy directly on the surface, then apply the strip. The sticky tape will adhere.
Hey Kenn, quick question - I've got an RGB light I want to use for this build, but it's got 4 cords and a 4 pin connector for power on either end... so I'm unable to run the wire along the dowel and connect to the top and bottom (hope that makes sense). What issues would I be running into without that? On another forum someone mentioned that wire helps distribute heat and voltage evenly throughout. Any input is much appreciated, and thanks in advance!
@@DroiMedia I think you mean wires (and not cords). That's what I thought you did for the White LED strip which surprised me because it ought (!) not be necessary as "good" strip vendors state (how much truth there is in it is debatable) you can daisy-chain up to four 5m strips. I have only one installation of a 5m strip and the brightness SEEMS uniform. Thanks for reminding me to actually check the voltage at the non-powered end just to see how much of a voltage drop there is.
@@DroiMedia The copper tracks / traces on strips (and such) are both thin and narrow which causes a voltage drop and so the LEDs at the non-powered end could be dimmer. The voltage drop is directly related to the current which is related to the density and type of LED (i.e 5050 versus 3825). Generally speaking, the 'bigger' the LED and more the number of LEDs the higher the voltage drop. I have seen powering LEDs as you have done (from both ends) which ought to balance the voltage (and so the heat would be uniform). I would not say the heat was distributed evenly as flexible strips "do not" distribute heat.
@@DroiMedia Soooooooo! I see you have a few options. Ask the vendor for a RGB strip with the lowest voltage drop (I doubt they will have any idea as to what you are asking though) , or measure it for yourself. If the drop is more than say 0.2V then you could do as before (use a router to make a groove for the wiring), or run a buss wire at both the top and bottom. A buss wire is simply a thick wire meant to carry power to circuits with minimal voltage drop. There are Wire Charts available that give the raw data needed to determine the voltage drop for a given length and current
Thanks for this vid will use it, Just a thought, instead of a wooden dowel an aluminum tube would work well, It will help with the heat dissipation and you can put the wire inside, though endcaps will be tricky to fasten.
@@DroiMedia not sure this will work (didn't show the process) but this guy hooked up a Sony battery plate to his lights ua-cam.com/video/0QoenJo94Ag/v-deo.html
I'm going to make a kids-car illuminated roll bar with flashing lights using this technique. I have an old three-color LED strip and a wig-wag flasher module. Tks!!
Hey thanks for the video, I'm currently looking at parts for a project for my custom water cooling pc where I use frosted white tubing and I'm planning on using ARGB lights Behind the tube. Unfortunately I cant seem to find any reference photos/videos of other people doing something similar so your video is just what I need to get a sense of how the diffusion looks
Looks awesome and Dam that’s bright! You should consider getting the leds with the remote to dim them down if it suits your needs or to change the color
That was amazing... Thanks for Sharing... I love tools.... and I think this is going to be one of my future projects. Thanks a million. You just might have saved me $100s.
If you have to solder a power connector then try using a molex style connector or terminal strip. The 'barrel' type connectors are a huge pain-in-the-@ss. This is also true for 'external' runs as the barrel connector easily pulls apart
@@MusicAndOtherColors they are readily powered via external battery banks, so somewhat portable. I have yet to make one with an integrated battery of any kind, honestly I think that's out of my realm at the moment. :)
@@MusicAndOtherColors Yeah, just use a battery pack (I have a few that I like listed in our 'how we power our gear' video on the channel) and you will be totally fine to use outdoors. It's definitely portable enough to move around outdoors, the packs I use are like half the size of a toaster.
Kenn, thanks for the input - one of my iterations used some of the u-channel pieces that you can mount LED strips with, adhered to just one side of the tube on the inside. Ultimately it didn't provide as much light (fewer LEDs). This is a really solid idea though and one I think could work out with the right solution - I just haven't found it yet. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic! I've been thinking the last few weeks about how I need to build some tubes before these tariffs get too crazy, but I might have missed my chance. I was thinking about using fluorescent tube protectors as the tube and spraying them with spray on window frost, but I might have to check out the acrylic tube you used because i'm sure it's much more durable.
Saw those very tube protectors at my local hardware store and realized if they were totally stationary (i.e. just lived in a studio somewhere) they might do OK, but the acrylic tubes are as thick as a PVC tube so I'm guessing they could withstand a good amount of abuse if you need them to work out in the field or get moved around a lot. Let me know what you decide to go with - would love to see the finished tubes!
before i got quasars i did the exact same thing. Got the tube protectors and sprayed with window frost. it looked good and worked. this is a video with them ua-cam.com/video/n1UI3anIyog/v-deo.html
I haven't taken the time to make a battery powered one yet, but you can run power off a small battery powered generator or power brick, just gotta check the #s and make sure it'll handle the LEDs. Check out our Powering Your Gear video for the one we use!
Do you still have some of those endcaps...I'd like to get about 20 of them...what would you charge for them as I don't want to buy a bulk when I only need a few. Thank you.
I loved how this led tubes ended up looking! I'll try to make my owns, but I wonder if it would be possible to power them with a NP-F battery or simillar, to make it portable. What do you think?
Hey! That's honestly the most common question I get asked.... I think if you got one of those NPF batts with a USB out or something you could power one that way I bet. I haven't had any time to test that option out but maybe some day :)
@@deanv8663 Just found your comment, I was plannig to make a portable version of these light tubes, do you think it is even 'possible' to get this much brighntess and to shelf a battery without making the entire system too 'bulky' ? Thanks
Nice build, but i recomend everyone to wind the strip on an alu (or either other metal) tube. This takes the heat away from the leds and will garantee a long lifetime.
What's the purpose of running the red/black wire under the strip and powering the stripe on both ends? In normal LEDs like Govee from Amazon the power is only connected on one side. Pls let me know. Am in the process of making my own LED tube light. Thanks
Thanks for watching - as noted in the video, you don't HAVE to connect the wire to both ends, but it helps distribute the current / heat better (in my experience). Will work either way though! Let me know how it goes, would love to see some finished work! :)
Probably the most common question I get asked about these.... I don't have a great solution at the moment. I have toyed with the idea of using a hollow tube that would fit AA batteries in lieu of the dowel rod that would power the entire light, just haven't found the right stuff for that. Otherwise a small USB battery pack that you attach with velcro to one end would be the easiest solution (and then you just need to get a USB to 3.5mm power cord). Again, haven't tried that. I typically just plug them into a larger battery pack I carry around that I charge camera batteries and stuff from - at the very least it allows me to put the light in spots that would be a bit more restricted if I needed a long extension cord and wall outlet access.
I did! Just didn't make a tutorial for it :) It's a 3' long RGBW version, remote controlled, pretty good except a few of the LED bulbs never do the color I want (but it's OK since I can just turn them to face away from the shot/camera/subject!
Awesome, do you recommend good LED lights strips for RGBW, cause the ones you used have this problem? It is difficult to find a good and reliable LED strip that has a good (and real) CRI.
@@CPProd I bought a decently reviewed one and still had those problems. I opted for a lower CRI (IIRC like high 80s, so not great but I figured whatever since I am only using it for very specific instances) so that might have been the issue? I haven't used one I am really happy with, but I do have a few really high CRI, really highly rated, really expensive ones I want to try out but I'm just nervous about spending like 3-4x what I want to get a damn LED light strip that I use occasionally ya know. SO, long story short, I don't have a recommendation at this time unfortunately - except to just find one in your budget with decent reviews and work around whatever the shortcomings are :)
@@DroiMedia Right, my friend! You are right, the budget and the usefulness of this tool for my work are absolutely the most important to consider. It is no use buying the best led (and more expensive) if I don't use this equipment so much. Thank you very much for your help and attention with my question! Success!
It will work - but I did this initially and it gets REALLY WARM, I explain it a little more in depth in the video and some other comments, but essentially closing the circuit (or making a loop - i.e. soldering both ends in) distributes the power better and the light doesn't overheat.
Hey! This has been a very informative video. Would you possibly know how to make this tube light rechargable using usb? if so it will be lovely to connect with you to get some insights from you. Cheers!
I haven't done it but it's totally feasible, would need to wire in a battery pack that you could recharge or swap out or whatever. This was high on my list of projects but my wife and I had a baby last year sooooo that's been my big DIY project for the last several months haha
This is actually better, because led tube that I've seen, don't have led strip glued at 360°, they only glue led strip at one side of the tube, it's like you would tape the strip on flat stick and then that strip into the tube, not all sides would get light, even thougb light gets dispersed almost everywhere because of the foggy tube, but yours is still better
Thanks for asking - and I only ever had them get hot when I DIDN'T wire them from both ends. As is they get warm since it is an enclosed space, but I have never really had any 'hot' issues. I do think if I could go back I would drill a couple air holes at each end to allow for some air circulation.
Either the website you bought the tube from changed the way they frosted their tubes or the exposure of your video makes the LEDs look way more diffused than they actually are. The 1.5" tube is too narrow to diffuse the LEDs and you end up seeing each individual LED through the tube. I purchased the samr stuff you did, am i doing something wrong?
In person they typically show up as individual LED spots, but on camera they tend to look like the frosted tube you see in the videos. Yes, I exposed for them to look like that and then adjusted my other lights, but I do that for most shots so I hope that it doesn't seem like I'm misleading anyone here. I also notice that when I crank them to full power (via the dimmer in my follow-up video) the individual LEDs are a LOT harder to see. Let me know if you've found a workaround for this issue!
@@DroiMedia thanks for clarifying. Yea that makes sense, since they're really bright so the dots won't show up in the video unless you underexpose. I'm using the light stick as a decorative light (it's really long and leans against the wall) and so having a smooth glow is what I'm going for. I'm gonna try it with a higher density LED strip and see if that works
Sony np 970 batteries have 7.2 volt output but my led panels are working ,how?sorry for dumb question but this subject is out my knowledge.I was looking for battery powered led panels and found your video . And your video was very useful ,now I wanna make battery powered tube light too : )
Why does the LED strip need power to both ends? That’s the only part I don’t understand. Isn’t the point of the screw on end for power to avoid soldering?
Heya, this is explained more in a few of the other comments here but basically the other end connection / loop that it creates helps to distribute power more evenly and prevents over heating at the connecting end. Hope that helps! (You can get away with just the one end but when I did it the lights got hot)
Hey! I've been told by people with much more experience and knowledge than me in this field that the wire will help regulate power throughout the length of the light strip, so it's less likely to overheat at one end. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any other questions!
Hello just finished the build. Thank you very much for the tutorial ! I have a problem tho I can see the individual led through the tube, it looks like its not diffused enough. Could it be because i used cheaper led (not the 90 cri ones) ?
Hey! Awesome to hear that you took on this build! It COULD be that, are you able to see the bulbs through your camera? In person I can see the individual bulbs, but on camera unless I have a really small aperture (f9 or higher for instance) or a really high shutter speed I can't see the bulbs.
@@DroiMedia oh it wasnt meant for a camera lighting in my situation, it is meant a dance performance haha, so I have to get rid of the single led visible effect. I just did a quick research on aliexpress and found some led flexible strip that might fit my need better. Also the caps where kind of hard to get in my country, so I 3d printed them (with a guide for the dowel rod, a hole for the screw and one for the wires to daisy chain). You could link them in your video if you want (used the same frosted acrylic as you did).
all Quasar brand tubes I've used will beat these in brightness, but I think the ones you're talking about are just the tubes and you'll need a housing (like an old KinoFlo shell or whatever) to mount them. These are fully self contained, other than power, much like the Q-LED line - which I believe are like $75/ft. If you can buy QS tubes then I recommend you do so - they are pro quality lights - but if you're interested in doing the DIY route these are an option to consider. Thanks for watching! :)
Hey Richard! Thanks for watching - as for the color changing strips I've got a set that I'm working on putting into one of these, the only issue I'm running into is that additional strip that runs under the LED strip is 4 wires with RGBW and they require additional connecting hardware (rather than soldering 4 sep. wires) so it's a bit 'chunkier' than I want on the inside and doesn't fit as well. I'm hoping to get some time this month to finish that up and I'll share a post on the results when I do. Honestly, I might just try it without that other wire and see what happens.
@@DroiMedia Good luck! Can't wait to see the results. I will try and the Daylight ones then go again should you make the colour work. Thanks again for the video and keep up the great work! P.s. I am the worst DIY person so fingers crossed
any idea how to make this with a battery? - Los Pastrana Yes, but it does get complicated by the choice of battery; Lead-acid, Ni-MH, Ni-Cad, Li-ion. All have various advantages and disadvantages Do use a PROPER recharger. Keep in mind that even Li-ion batteries experience a voltage drop as they discharge.So you need to control the voltage. You should use an under and over voltage protection circuit. You should use a (LDO) voltage regulator if using a Li-ion battery pack (which gives a nominal voltage of around 14.8V) Also the chemistry with Li-ion does vary - they are NOT all the same! Lead-acid batteries have a voltage range of about 14.4 (fully charged) down to around 11.5V (avoid using when 50% discharged) Another choice is to use a boost converter to raise the battery voltage to 12V but the quality and efficiency of these varies greatly. They can introduce flicker as well. Same is true for buck-boost converters.
Most LED-Strips run on 12V. If you directly connect them to a 9V Source, they might light up but only very dim. You could use a voltage step up module to boost the voltage to 12V. But you also need to make sure that the 9V Battery as well as the step up module can deliver enough current to power the amount of LEDs you are using.
yeah! Like for long exposure light paintings?? If so I would love to see you do that - and it should work just fine. I normally connect mine to a small external battery that way they are super portable, and while I leave mine on stands you could definitely run around with some connected to a battery.
Thanks! And the four wires at the other end? Let me know what part of the video you're referencing and I'll let ya know (sorry it's not more obvious to me, just getting back from an all day shoot outside in a field so my brain is mush). As for the 12v, I believe the LEDs are all 12 [if I'm wrong and someone else with more information/knowledge is reading this please correct me!]
@@DroiMedia low voltage LEDs come in 5v, 12v and 24v. They also make line voltage (120/240v) LED tape/rope but less common. You oddly did use 4 wires, two at each end of the tape which is rather unusual. What is the reasoning for doing that.
Hey! Thanks for the comment! I think you're referencing the two wires I used to connect the LED strip to itself (each wire was bare at both ends so there were 4 bare areas that I connected, butonly 2 actual wires). Anyways, I was told by some folks this was the way to do it after my first tests ended up with WARM LED temperatures. They said this method would distribute heat / current more effectively. I have like NO knowledge on this shit though but it definitely worked out in terms of keeping the LEDs a lot cooler!
Works the same way! My RGBW strip has 4 connections / wires (is yours the same?) so I had to solder an additional 4 wire strip to each end. I bought some solderless connectors but they didn't work well.
Can these be made to run on battery ? will it affect brightness ? if it can be run on battery ? could you tell if the battery would be huge or possibly portable
Yep! I run them off of some larger batteries sometimes to make them more portable, but you could definitely rig up some NPF or V Mount style batteries to power these - either of those options would be fairly small / portable.
Not necessary but when I did some original tests only wiring one end caused it to get REALLY warm. The additional wiring allows for the current to continuously move, so there is no (or less) heart build up.
@@DroiMedia that makes perfect sense, and after I asked I started to wonder if it had something to do with current or maybe only half the lights being driven. Thanks so much for the reply and helping me understand!
Cool cool, you could definitely power these off a battery of some kind just need to make sure the amps and everything are correct for the battery output.
Quick question: Why do you solder an additional wire to the other end (the one without the connector adapter) of the strip (at 3.25 in the video)? Is there any "performance" reason? sorry, i am a noob at electrics ;)
Great question! I was told by people with a better understanding of electronics than me that doing so will allow better / more stable flow of an electric current through the entire light that way. I have yet to test out and see if it makes a difference, but I know you could technically do it without that cord if you wanted (they're made to be used that way) to save a little time, money, and effort when making these.
Heya! Not sure I quite understand the question - any chance you could re-phrase it? Happy to help, just want to make sure I can answer your question correctly! :)
@@ministudio2122 I THINK it's 12v, keep in mind my math is all done on scratch paper and I'm not trained professionally by any means in this. Hope that helps a little!
Hiya! (Sweet username 🤗) so I was told by people with more experience than me that wiring it that way helps distribute power throughout the entire strip and can help prevent heat buildup. You can definitely do this without it though!
Hey! Great question and yes it does, BUT, when I originally connected only one side the light got pretty hot, and after talking with some folks who have more knowledge than me they recommended I connect both sides so the current doesn't build up and create heat anywhere. You can absolutely do it by just connecting one side but just be careful / aware that it might get hot. Hope that helps answer your question!
Not only does it benefit with heat build up, but the end of the strip closest to the power connecter will be brighter than the end without. So by connecting both ends it allows for more even power and light distribution.
Hi! You can find different lights with varying amounts of LEDs online - these are a single strip with a light every inch or so, but I believe there are strips with two side by side lights or lights every 1/2 inch or so (so basically more lights in the same length of strip which means brighter lights). I would assume these would work as grow lights, they're as bright or brighter than the same sized light I use for my frog/terrarium :)
Great question but unfortunately one I do not have an answer for. However, you could get clear plastic tubing and then put a rolled-up piece of frosted gel on the inside for the same effect I would think.
None that I've noticed but I'll do a shoot with them this weekend and share some footage - I'll run through some various frame rates and shutter speeds to see. Thanks for the question!
I THINK they sell similar ones on Amazon, I'm on my phone right now but I'll get back to you later when I'm back around a computer, I've got some others bookmarked I think.
@@stefankarabelov Hey! I can't find the link I thought I had bookmarked, but you should be able to search "acrylic tubing" or "clear acrylic tubing" on Amazon and find a decent priced one that's the right size: amzn.to/3eBLskF - let me know if you have any questions about potential ones, I don't want people buying the wrong stuff on my account :)
Are you asking? It's in the description and in the video - it's frosted acrylic tubing. You could use anything similar though, and the frosted is just to help with the diffusion, you could do colors, clear, etc.
With a tube like this, the light goes out 360 degrees. So most of the light is wasted. It would be twice as efficient to mount the leds on a flat plate.
Thanks for commenting, Jim! I actually did a plate on a first draft of these where all the LEDs are facing forward, you certainly get more direct light but can only fit a fraction of the LEDs in the same space compared to these. I found this route to be the best compromise in terms of output, cost, and build quality.
I've installed these strips under counters many times as a contractor. You only need to connect wires to one end as long as you don't break the strip. Great idea. Some kits come with RGB and remote controller/dimmers so you can tailor the light to the K or color you want. They should be able to be made portable by just setting up with batteries to the value of the adapter.
Thanks for the comment and info, Bill!
While it's true that you don't necessarily need to attach the power at both ends, it is possible that with longer LED strips , brightness and voltage can drop toward the end of the strip(especially when chaining strips together). I linked an interesting article describing the problem. One solution to double the possible length of a strip is to attach power to both ends as he did in the video.
www.superbrightleds.com/blog/understanding-difference-12-volt-24-volt-led-strip-lights/3070/
Hi Mr. Adam, I am from India. I used to wonder why my desklamp's light used to feel "dead and cold". Now I know that it used a low CRI LED(probably much less than 80). Thank you for this knowledge. UA-cam is a wonderful place. I am now searching ways to make a durable LED tube myself. Usually the manufacturers use a bad quality power to the LED tubes here. and because of that, the tubes die within a few years of purchase...even if the LEDs work mostly fine. I am trying to overcome planned obsolescence and make my 10 year-LED tube on my own.
Awesome to hear! Let me know it goes! :)
Thank you for sharing. I'm excited to go and attempt your design as soon as I can. Think I'll try with RGB LEDs.
Awesome! Let me know how it turns out!
Easiest and most comprehensive video I’ve seen.🤘🏽
That means a lot, thank you! 😊😊😊
Fantastic DIY Build! I had been looking at several other DIY attempts, and this is by far the best, most concise and followable one! Thank you Droi Media! I know you are addressing an American audience, I live in Germany and it\s been a little hard finding frosted acrylic tubes here. Been to home stores and Bauhaus stores and they don\t really know what I mean. So far the best translation term I have for anyone else searching in Germany is 'Acryl Rohr Satiniert"/ Thanks!
Thanks for the comment! Keep me posted on what you find - I know a few other folks found clear acrylic tubing and just put a layer of diffusion inside for the same effect. Happy DIYing!
@@DroiMedia Cheers! great suggestion. Will keep you posted what I end up making on this build :) What would be a searchable term for a 'diffusion layer'?
@@SebastianKaye I think they were maybe using lighting/gel diffusion filters (like these: amzn.to/3elKMQn) - but you could probably get away with something cheaper like parchment paper (that you use for cooking).
This is how diy video suppose to be. I just watched a video and 5 minutes in on a 6 minute video the guy was just talking nonsense and zero how to...lol. Thanks for the idea.
Thanks! I do my best to just showcase the DIY stuff, and as little of the other shit as possible :)
@@DroiMedia i mean some vids can get away with my pet ;peeve of all talk no diy but you have to look good in a bikini ...lol
@@rogeers2167 I do NOT look good in one, so I'll keep up the DIYing :D
Found you on Reddit....thanks for sharing man. This is one of those questions that plagues UA-cam’s. About lighting.
🤗 happy to help!
Check me out too man. Let me know if my content jives with ya.
Clear instructions and easy to follow.
Thank you! :D
With cheaper strips the mounting tape is crap - glue it down with epoxy. Just put the epoxy directly on the surface, then apply the strip. The sticky tape will adhere.
If you 'tin' the copper pads on the strip before soldering the wires it is much easier/faster. Applying some flux beforehand can also help.
Hey Kenn, quick question - I've got an RGB light I want to use for this build, but it's got 4 cords and a 4 pin connector for power on either end... so I'm unable to run the wire along the dowel and connect to the top and bottom (hope that makes sense). What issues would I be running into without that? On another forum someone mentioned that wire helps distribute heat and voltage evenly throughout. Any input is much appreciated, and thanks in advance!
@@DroiMedia I think you mean wires (and not cords). That's what I thought you did for the White LED strip which surprised me because it ought (!) not be necessary as "good" strip vendors state (how much truth there is in it is debatable) you can daisy-chain up to four 5m strips. I have only one installation of a 5m strip and the brightness SEEMS uniform. Thanks for reminding me to actually check the voltage at the non-powered end just to see how much of a voltage drop there is.
@@DroiMedia The copper tracks / traces on strips (and such) are both thin and narrow which causes a voltage drop and so the LEDs at the non-powered end could be dimmer. The voltage drop is directly related to the current which is related to the density and type of LED (i.e 5050 versus 3825). Generally speaking, the 'bigger' the LED and more the number of LEDs the higher the voltage drop.
I have seen powering LEDs as you have done (from both ends) which ought to balance the voltage (and so the heat would be uniform). I would not say the heat was distributed evenly as flexible strips "do not" distribute heat.
@@DroiMedia Soooooooo! I see you have a few options. Ask the vendor for a RGB strip with the lowest voltage drop (I doubt they will have any idea as to what you are asking though) , or measure it for yourself. If the drop is more than say 0.2V then you could do as before (use a router to make a groove for the wiring), or run a buss wire at both the top and bottom. A buss wire is simply a thick wire meant to carry power to circuits with minimal voltage drop. There are Wire Charts available that give the raw data needed to determine the voltage drop for a given length and current
@@kennmossman8701 thanks for this thorough reply (and yes I meant wires, long day lol), I appreciate your insight!
Great stuff!
Here in the uk,18 inch t8 led tubes are difficult to find for my lamp that is a perfect length for my desk,so will give this a go!
Awesome! Let me know how they turn out - and share some pics with us once you're done! :) :) :)
Have been looking for something like this for aaaages, great tutorial.
Thanks! Share a pic if you decide to make some! 🤗🤗
Thanks for this vid will use it, Just a thought, instead of a wooden dowel an aluminum tube would work well, It will help with the heat dissipation and you can put the wire inside, though endcaps will be tricky to fasten.
Great tip!
So awesome man! If you could make a portable version it would be even more epic. Not many companies make those it seems except quasar science
Thanks! And I know, I want to make one with an Incorporated battery but haven't been able to make it work yet.
Droi Media that’s great, I hope you’ll succeed and make a video out of it!!
@@DroiMedia not sure this will work (didn't show the process) but this guy hooked up a Sony battery plate to his lights ua-cam.com/video/0QoenJo94Ag/v-deo.html
Clean build! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! :D :D :D
I'm going to make a kids-car illuminated roll bar with flashing lights using this technique. I have an old three-color LED strip and a wig-wag flasher module. Tks!!
Awesome! Be sure to share a picture with us on social media after you're done!
Can’t wait to try this!
Doooo ittttt! And then let me know how they turn out :)
Fantastic. Thank you for sharing
Hey thanks for the video, I'm currently looking at parts for a project for my custom water cooling pc where I use frosted white tubing and I'm planning on using ARGB lights Behind the tube. Unfortunately I cant seem to find any reference photos/videos of other people doing something similar so your video is just what I need to get a sense of how the diffusion looks
Glad I could be of help - would love to see what the finished project looks like, @ me over on Twitter or Instagram if you post some finished shots.
Great work !
Thanks!
It was simple and clear. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for watching! :)
Looks awesome and Dam that’s bright! You should consider getting the leds with the remote to dim them down if it suits your needs or to change the color
Thanks! And I actually did that for my second build - has worked well so far :)
Awesome. Simple but very innovative! Thank you for this!
Thanks for watching (and commenting)! :D :D :D
That was amazing... Thanks for Sharing... I love tools.... and I think this is going to be one of my future projects. Thanks a million. You just might have saved me $100s.
Glad you liked it!
If you have to solder a power connector then try using a molex style connector or terminal strip. The 'barrel' type connectors are a huge pain-in-the-@ss. This is also true for 'external' runs as the barrel connector easily pulls apart
Kenn thanks for all this insight - I truly appreciate it!
WOW !!!!!! Such a beautiful idea !!! Super thank you for sharing this tutorial !
Thanks! 😊😊😊
@@DroiMedia Have you tried to make a portable one as well ?
@@MusicAndOtherColors they are readily powered via external battery banks, so somewhat portable. I have yet to make one with an integrated battery of any kind, honestly I think that's out of my realm at the moment. :)
@@DroiMedia I guess it is doable but it would cost a bit more , I want to use it for outdoor shootings
@@MusicAndOtherColors Yeah, just use a battery pack (I have a few that I like listed in our 'how we power our gear' video on the channel) and you will be totally fine to use outdoors. It's definitely portable enough to move around outdoors, the packs I use are like half the size of a toaster.
Superb what a innovative idea congratulations 👏to you
Thanks!
very clean diy! looks very professional
Thanks!
Wow, I didn't know Austin Carlile is made such a handyman!
😊😊😊
5:23 am dead 💀 😂😂 didn’t expect that lol 😂! You a genius! God bless you you save me lot of money
glad to hear! Thanks for watching! :D :D :D
If you don't want 360 degree light consider using a thin flat piece of wood and mounting the strips to the wood on one side.
Kenn, thanks for the input - one of my iterations used some of the u-channel pieces that you can mount LED strips with, adhered to just one side of the tube on the inside. Ultimately it didn't provide as much light (fewer LEDs). This is a really solid idea though and one I think could work out with the right solution - I just haven't found it yet. Thanks for watching!
Most excellent. Well done!
Thanks! 😊😊😊
Dowel idea was very neat loved it. I would have loved to use a steel or copper rod as it also works as a heatsink.
That is good to know, I haven't had anyone tell me that yet, I might have to try it out on my next one! Thanks!!
@@DroiMedia wow. That's a lightning quick reply.
Caught me on a lunch break, plus I don't have a ton of subs so I keep notifications on 😊
@@DroiMedia that made me subscribe you ! Good luck.
amazing video. Thanks
Thanks for watching! :) :) :)
Fantastic! I've been thinking the last few weeks about how I need to build some tubes before these tariffs get too crazy, but I might have missed my chance. I was thinking about using fluorescent tube protectors as the tube and spraying them with spray on window frost, but I might have to check out the acrylic tube you used because i'm sure it's much more durable.
Saw those very tube protectors at my local hardware store and realized if they were totally stationary (i.e. just lived in a studio somewhere) they might do OK, but the acrylic tubes are as thick as a PVC tube so I'm guessing they could withstand a good amount of abuse if you need them to work out in the field or get moved around a lot. Let me know what you decide to go with - would love to see the finished tubes!
before i got quasars i did the exact same thing. Got the tube protectors and sprayed with window frost. it looked good and worked. this is a video with them ua-cam.com/video/n1UI3anIyog/v-deo.html
There are two types of plastic normally used - each has its advantages
Awesome vid man! Subscribed! Look forward to watching more. Cheers!
Thanks! That seriously means a lot - appreciate the comment and the sub :) :) :) :)
@@DroiMedia No worries!
Could be nice a portable version :D you made my day wth this tutorial. one sub here
🤗 happy you're here! Let me know how it turns out if you make one!
really amazing! thank you so much!
Thank YOU for watching and the kind comment 😊
we enjoyed with Ur video its so easy cheap excellent
Thanks!
Awwwww mate - we are definitely going to make some of these bad lads! Great video as always.
Do iitttt! Seriously they are great, let me know when you end up making some, would love to see what you guys come up with! Thanks for watching :D
Incredible! How to save money on the quasars! I wonder how these fair with flickering - they looked great on your video?
No flickering I've encountered yet :)
Awesome! Making mine this week. Any tips or thoughts on battery powering this?
I haven't taken the time to make a battery powered one yet, but you can run power off a small battery powered generator or power brick, just gotta check the #s and make sure it'll handle the LEDs. Check out our Powering Your Gear video for the one we use!
Nice! Thanks
Thanks for watching! 😊
Great idea! Tanks!
:D
Do you still have some of those endcaps...I'd like to get about 20 of them...what would you charge for them as I don't want to buy a bulk when I only need a few. Thank you.
nice build pro
Thanks! ☺️☺️
I loved how this led tubes ended up looking! I'll try to make my owns, but I wonder if it would be possible to power them with a NP-F battery or simillar, to make it portable. What do you think?
Hey! That's honestly the most common question I get asked.... I think if you got one of those NPF batts with a USB out or something you could power one that way I bet. I haven't had any time to test that option out but maybe some day :)
I use LiPo remote control plane batteries for some of my led stuff. They are small, light, and can be found for rather inexpensive prices.
@@deanv8663 Just found your comment, I was plannig to make a portable version of these light tubes, do you think it is even 'possible' to get this much brighntess and to shelf a battery without making the entire system too 'bulky' ?
Thanks
@@gokulhbk the batteries I have used are about the size of a tic tac container.
Nice build, but i recomend everyone to wind the strip on an alu (or either other metal) tube. This takes the heat away from the leds and will garantee a long lifetime.
Thanks for the tip!
What's the purpose of running the red/black wire under the strip and powering the stripe on both ends? In normal LEDs like Govee from Amazon the power is only connected on one side.
Pls let me know. Am in the process of making my own LED tube light. Thanks
Thanks for watching - as noted in the video, you don't HAVE to connect the wire to both ends, but it helps distribute the current / heat better (in my experience). Will work either way though! Let me know how it goes, would love to see some finished work! :)
How would you do this to make it battery operated or usb powered to plug into a portable battery for portable use?
Probably the most common question I get asked about these.... I don't have a great solution at the moment. I have toyed with the idea of using a hollow tube that would fit AA batteries in lieu of the dowel rod that would power the entire light, just haven't found the right stuff for that. Otherwise a small USB battery pack that you attach with velcro to one end would be the easiest solution (and then you just need to get a USB to 3.5mm power cord). Again, haven't tried that. I typically just plug them into a larger battery pack I carry around that I charge camera batteries and stuff from - at the very least it allows me to put the light in spots that would be a bit more restricted if I needed a long extension cord and wall outlet access.
Very nice! Hey, do the same for a RGB model!!
I did! Just didn't make a tutorial for it :) It's a 3' long RGBW version, remote controlled, pretty good except a few of the LED bulbs never do the color I want (but it's OK since I can just turn them to face away from the shot/camera/subject!
Awesome, do you recommend good LED lights strips for RGBW, cause the ones you used have this problem?
It is difficult to find a good and reliable LED strip that has a good (and real) CRI.
@@CPProd I bought a decently reviewed one and still had those problems. I opted for a lower CRI (IIRC like high 80s, so not great but I figured whatever since I am only using it for very specific instances) so that might have been the issue? I haven't used one I am really happy with, but I do have a few really high CRI, really highly rated, really expensive ones I want to try out but I'm just nervous about spending like 3-4x what I want to get a damn LED light strip that I use occasionally ya know. SO, long story short, I don't have a recommendation at this time unfortunately - except to just find one in your budget with decent reviews and work around whatever the shortcomings are :)
@@DroiMedia Right, my friend! You are right, the budget and the usefulness of this tool for my work are absolutely the most important to consider. It is no use buying the best led (and more expensive) if I don't use this equipment so much.
Thank you very much for your help and attention with my question!
Success!
So sweet
great idea but won’t they work just adding power to the one factory wires with out soldering the end you cut?
It will work - but I did this initially and it gets REALLY WARM, I explain it a little more in depth in the video and some other comments, but essentially closing the circuit (or making a loop - i.e. soldering both ends in) distributes the power better and the light doesn't overheat.
Nice
Thanks! :)
Can those light be wired directly to a 12v battery from my ice fishing flasher?
I don't see why not, try it out!
awesome .. great stuff
Thanks so much! :)
Hey! This has been a very informative video. Would you possibly know how to make this tube light rechargable using usb? if so it will be lovely to connect with you to get some insights from you. Cheers!
I haven't done it but it's totally feasible, would need to wire in a battery pack that you could recharge or swap out or whatever. This was high on my list of projects but my wife and I had a baby last year sooooo that's been my big DIY project for the last several months haha
I got to the Sawder bit and didnt understand what that was.So i soldered mine together instead.
Sorry bud had to :) .Happy holidays.
😊
Nice and neat work. thanks for the great content...
Thanks so much! Appreciate the feedback 😊😊😊
@@DroiMedia It's the truth and I like feedback as well, cheers!
This is actually better, because led tube that I've seen, don't have led strip glued at 360°, they only glue led strip at one side of the tube, it's like you would tape the strip on flat stick and then that strip into the tube, not all sides would get light, even thougb light gets dispersed almost everywhere because of the foggy tube, but yours is still better
appreciate the comment! thanks for watching and let us know if you end up making any :)
Will it have problem with heat accumulating inside the tube over time?
Thanks for asking - and I only ever had them get hot when I DIDN'T wire them from both ends. As is they get warm since it is an enclosed space, but I have never really had any 'hot' issues. I do think if I could go back I would drill a couple air holes at each end to allow for some air circulation.
Either the website you bought the tube from changed the way they frosted their tubes or the exposure of your video makes the LEDs look way more diffused than they actually are. The 1.5" tube is too narrow to diffuse the LEDs and you end up seeing each individual LED through the tube. I purchased the samr stuff you did, am i doing something wrong?
In person they typically show up as individual LED spots, but on camera they tend to look like the frosted tube you see in the videos. Yes, I exposed for them to look like that and then adjusted my other lights, but I do that for most shots so I hope that it doesn't seem like I'm misleading anyone here. I also notice that when I crank them to full power (via the dimmer in my follow-up video) the individual LEDs are a LOT harder to see. Let me know if you've found a workaround for this issue!
@@DroiMedia thanks for clarifying. Yea that makes sense, since they're really bright so the dots won't show up in the video unless you underexpose. I'm using the light stick as a decorative light (it's really long and leans against the wall) and so having a smooth glow is what I'm going for. I'm gonna try it with a higher density LED strip and see if that works
Well done, if i want this in another colour is it possible to spray the acrylic pipe with a clear paint?
I don't see why not! They also have other colors of plastic tubing if you wanted some color.
Well done ,can you make battery powered?
Thanks! And yeah! Any battery with a standard 12v output should work!
Sony np 970 batteries have 7.2 volt output but my led panels are working ,how?sorry for dumb question but this subject is out my knowledge.I was looking for battery powered led panels and found your video . And your video was very useful ,now I wanna make battery powered tube light too : )
You might be able to find a lower voltage LED strip, or you could possibly utilize a different battery source
Strangely enough while the answer is yes that is complicated though the largest factor is the desired run time which dictates the AH of the battery
Why does the LED strip need power to both ends? That’s the only part I don’t understand. Isn’t the point of the screw on end for power to avoid soldering?
Heya, this is explained more in a few of the other comments here but basically the other end connection / loop that it creates helps to distribute power more evenly and prevents over heating at the connecting end. Hope that helps! (You can get away with just the one end but when I did it the lights got hot)
Led strips have a very convoluted market. Specific things are so hard to find!
Yeah, there are tens of thousands of results when you click through to Amazon looking for LED strips lights :/
Any idea how you would throw this on a cold shoe for a camera? Been thinking about making my own portable light with all these neopixels I have
What's the purpose of running a separate wire from the other end of the tube, can you not power the led strip from one end?
Hey! I've been told by people with much more experience and knowledge than me in this field that the wire will help regulate power throughout the length of the light strip, so it's less likely to overheat at one end. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any other questions!
How does wiring at both ends cut down on heat?
Hello just finished the build. Thank you very much for the tutorial ! I have a problem tho I can see the individual led through the tube, it looks like its not diffused enough. Could it be because i used cheaper led (not the 90 cri ones) ?
Hey! Awesome to hear that you took on this build! It COULD be that, are you able to see the bulbs through your camera? In person I can see the individual bulbs, but on camera unless I have a really small aperture (f9 or higher for instance) or a really high shutter speed I can't see the bulbs.
@@DroiMedia oh it wasnt meant for a camera lighting in my situation, it is meant a dance performance haha, so I have to get rid of the single led visible effect. I just did a quick research on aliexpress and found some led flexible strip that might fit my need better. Also the caps where kind of hard to get in my country, so I 3d printed them (with a guide for the dowel rod, a hole for the screw and one for the wires to daisy chain). You could link them in your video if you want (used the same frosted acrylic as you did).
good job
mateen from pakistan
Thanks! :D
A 4' quasar LED tube is $100 on amazon which is basically $25/ft. How do these compare in brightness?
all Quasar brand tubes I've used will beat these in brightness, but I think the ones you're talking about are just the tubes and you'll need a housing (like an old KinoFlo shell or whatever) to mount them. These are fully self contained, other than power, much like the Q-LED line - which I believe are like $75/ft. If you can buy QS tubes then I recommend you do so - they are pro quality lights - but if you're interested in doing the DIY route these are an option to consider. Thanks for watching! :)
Thanks for this guys. I'm definitely going to try, do you have any suggestions for colour changing LED strip or would this not viable?
Hey Richard! Thanks for watching - as for the color changing strips I've got a set that I'm working on putting into one of these, the only issue I'm running into is that additional strip that runs under the LED strip is 4 wires with RGBW and they require additional connecting hardware (rather than soldering 4 sep. wires) so it's a bit 'chunkier' than I want on the inside and doesn't fit as well. I'm hoping to get some time this month to finish that up and I'll share a post on the results when I do. Honestly, I might just try it without that other wire and see what happens.
@@DroiMedia Good luck! Can't wait to see the results. I will try and the Daylight ones then go again should you make the colour work. Thanks again for the video and keep up the great work!
P.s. I am the worst DIY person so fingers crossed
any idea how to make this with a battery? - Los Pastrana
Yes, but it does get complicated by the choice of battery; Lead-acid, Ni-MH, Ni-Cad, Li-ion.
All have various advantages and disadvantages
Do use a PROPER recharger.
Keep in mind that even Li-ion batteries experience a voltage drop as they discharge.So you need to control the voltage.
You should use an under and over voltage protection circuit.
You should use a (LDO) voltage regulator if using a Li-ion battery pack (which gives a nominal voltage of around 14.8V)
Also the chemistry with Li-ion does vary - they are NOT all the same!
Lead-acid batteries have a voltage range of about 14.4 (fully charged) down to around 11.5V (avoid using when 50% discharged)
Another choice is to use a boost converter to raise the battery voltage to 12V but the quality and efficiency of these varies greatly. They can introduce flicker as well.
Same is true for buck-boost converters.
Hi Droi, awesome tutorial. can this also be powered by a 9 volt battery?
Hey thanks!! I have no clue but I don't see why not - would just need a (maybe couple of) 9v adapters and then wire in the correct connection type.
Most LED-Strips run on 12V. If you directly connect them to a 9V Source, they might light up but only very dim. You could use a voltage step up module to boost the voltage to 12V. But you also need to make sure that the 9V Battery as well as the step up module can deliver enough current to power the amount of LEDs you are using.
Modern Crafts Thank you. I will try this set up........
Could i use this for light photography? Would I just connect a power bank to it?
yeah! Like for long exposure light paintings?? If so I would love to see you do that - and it should work just fine. I normally connect mine to a small external battery that way they are super portable, and while I leave mine on stands you could definitely run around with some connected to a battery.
Great stuff! I need enlightenment about where the four wires at the other end come from. Also, how do we decide whether it is 12 volt or more. Thanks.
Thanks! And the four wires at the other end? Let me know what part of the video you're referencing and I'll let ya know (sorry it's not more obvious to me, just getting back from an all day shoot outside in a field so my brain is mush). As for the 12v, I believe the LEDs are all 12 [if I'm wrong and someone else with more information/knowledge is reading this please correct me!]
@@DroiMedia low voltage LEDs come in 5v, 12v and 24v. They also make line voltage (120/240v) LED tape/rope but less common.
You oddly did use 4 wires, two at each end of the tape which is rather unusual. What is the reasoning for doing that.
Hey! Thanks for the comment! I think you're referencing the two wires I used to connect the LED strip to itself (each wire was bare at both ends so there were 4 bare areas that I connected, butonly 2 actual wires). Anyways, I was told by some folks this was the way to do it after my first tests ended up with WARM LED temperatures. They said this method would distribute heat / current more effectively. I have like NO knowledge on this shit though but it definitely worked out in terms of keeping the LEDs a lot cooler!
thanks for the vid! one question tho, what if i have a strip that changes colors?
Works the same way! My RGBW strip has 4 connections / wires (is yours the same?) so I had to solder an additional 4 wire strip to each end. I bought some solderless connectors but they didn't work well.
Can I have the link for the solderless connector you used for the build?
Hiya! I think this is the one I used: amzn.to/2O7G7qM
Can these be made to run on battery ? will it affect brightness ? if it can be run on battery ? could you tell if the battery would be huge or possibly portable
Yep! I run them off of some larger batteries sometimes to make them more portable, but you could definitely rig up some NPF or V Mount style batteries to power these - either of those options would be fairly small / portable.
You could probably hook them up to usb connections
Great idea! I just run them into the 3.5mm in (light) from the USB out (battery). Works great, although not a "battery powered" as many people want.
My Too For Ready The Coming Soons…
Is the wire at both ends really necessary? Could you not just solder to one end of the LED strip?
Not necessary but when I did some original tests only wiring one end caused it to get REALLY warm. The additional wiring allows for the current to continuously move, so there is no (or less) heart build up.
@@DroiMedia that makes perfect sense, and after I asked I started to wonder if it had something to do with current or maybe only half the lights being driven. Thanks so much for the reply and helping me understand!
Happy to help, there's more info buried up in the comments so it might be worth perusing those to check some things out. Happy DIYing!
How can I make this rechargeable? Great video
Thanks! And no clue about making it rechargable, that's unfortunately beyond my capabilities.
No problem I'm trying to come up with something at least battery operated
Cool cool, you could definitely power these off a battery of some kind just need to make sure the amps and everything are correct for the battery output.
Quick question: Why do you solder an additional wire to the other end (the one without the connector adapter) of the strip (at 3.25 in the video)? Is there any "performance" reason? sorry, i am a noob at electrics ;)
Great question! I was told by people with a better understanding of electronics than me that doing so will allow better / more stable flow of an electric current through the entire light that way. I have yet to test out and see if it makes a difference, but I know you could technically do it without that cord if you wanted (they're made to be used that way) to save a little time, money, and effort when making these.
It’s to mitigate voltage drop and idefinitely worth the small effort so as to maintain even power. Thanks for the tutorial, great job!
Thanks!
it's so cool! 我太喜欢了！！！
thanks!!!
Brother how many voltes have you made light of 12 volts, 4 volts dc
Heya! Not sure I quite understand the question - any chance you could re-phrase it? Happy to help, just want to make sure I can answer your question correctly! :)
@@DroiMedia means the light you have prepared is it in 12 volt dc or in 4 volt
@@ministudio2122 I THINK it's 12v, keep in mind my math is all done on scratch paper and I'm not trained professionally by any means in this. Hope that helps a little!
Why did you wire the opposite end back? Wasn't it getting power just from the input at the main end?
Hiya! (Sweet username 🤗) so I was told by people with more experience than me that wiring it that way helps distribute power throughout the entire strip and can help prevent heat buildup. You can definitely do this without it though!
@@DroiMedia thanks for the reply.
Hey man, you wouldn't happen to still have any more of the end caps, would you? If so please lmk! :)
I'll check and let you know but I THINK I've got some left, if you can shoot me an email so I don't lose track of this request! hi@droimedia.com
why are you connecting both sides of the strip? surely one side powers the whole strip
Hey! Great question and yes it does, BUT, when I originally connected only one side the light got pretty hot, and after talking with some folks who have more knowledge than me they recommended I connect both sides so the current doesn't build up and create heat anywhere. You can absolutely do it by just connecting one side but just be careful / aware that it might get hot. Hope that helps answer your question!
Not only does it benefit with heat build up, but the end of the strip closest to the power connecter will be brighter than the end without. So by connecting both ends it allows for more even power and light distribution.
Is there any heat issue? Why led strips are used without radiators?
The only neat issues arise when you don't have the LEDs connected at both ends. And I don't know what a radiator is 😊
I want to make my own grow lights for hydroponics. So my question is, can i control the lumens of the light? Are there stronger strips?
Hi! You can find different lights with varying amounts of LEDs online - these are a single strip with a light every inch or so, but I believe there are strips with two side by side lights or lights every 1/2 inch or so (so basically more lights in the same length of strip which means brighter lights). I would assume these would work as grow lights, they're as bright or brighter than the same sized light I use for my frog/terrarium :)
@@DroiMedia thank you! for the great video and for your response! like and subscribe folks, he deserves it
@@moncefzerroug9533 thanks for the support :) :) :) truly appreciate it!
Rgb w use cool 😎
Do you know the % light transmission from the tubing? It's super hard to find frosted acrylic tubing in the Netherlands.
Great question but unfortunately one I do not have an answer for. However, you could get clear plastic tubing and then put a rolled-up piece of frosted gel on the inside for the same effect I would think.
Whats the flicker like on these LED strips when filming video?
None that I've noticed but I'll do a shoot with them this weekend and share some footage - I'll run through some various frame rates and shutter speeds to see. Thanks for the question!
That depends on the duty cycle and frequency if using PWM. I'd suggest varying the voltage or current instead.
Any other good sites to buy frosted acrylic tubes from? I'm in Canada.. the USD is a nightmare :p
I THINK they sell similar ones on Amazon, I'm on my phone right now but I'll get back to you later when I'm back around a computer, I've got some others bookmarked I think.
@@DroiMedia sounds great!
@@stefankarabelov Hey! I can't find the link I thought I had bookmarked, but you should be able to search "acrylic tubing" or "clear acrylic tubing" on Amazon and find a decent priced one that's the right size: amzn.to/3eBLskF - let me know if you have any questions about potential ones, I don't want people buying the wrong stuff on my account :)
Do you have any extra end caps that I could buy from you? I don't want 98 extra laying around.
Yeah! Shoot me an email (should be up in my channel info) and we'll get that taken care of!
DroiMedia emailed!
I never saw this in my life super
Where to get this diffuser
Which diffuser? The acrylic tubing?
@@DroiMedia yes sir cover
Link for all the materials is in the description! You can also find similar products over on Amazon.
Name of the transparent cylindrical pipe
Are you asking? It's in the description and in the video - it's frosted acrylic tubing. You could use anything similar though, and the frosted is just to help with the diffusion, you could do colors, clear, etc.
With a tube like this, the light goes out 360 degrees. So most of the light is wasted. It would be twice as efficient to mount the leds on a flat plate.
Thanks for commenting, Jim! I actually did a plate on a first draft of these where all the LEDs are facing forward, you certainly get more direct light but can only fit a fraction of the LEDs in the same space compared to these. I found this route to be the best compromise in terms of output, cost, and build quality.
muy buenas, como las harías recargables?