Your video is the closest I've come to see anyone give me an idea what I can tap off of to add a fan to one of my UPS's. I have a couple fans and thermistor etup that I' like to add but don' feel comfy tapping direct from the batteries... I hope you show were you tapped your fans off of.... regards... great video. PS Since and because you are using those bottomless batteries you will probably get more heat a a result; at least in the initial charge up and during any recharges and run ups on battery. Unless that UPS is a double dipper or whatever they're called (always running DC to the front and converting to AC all of the time) it will always run hot. I was thinking, however, that since you have no batteries in the battery compartment you could convert the battery compartment into a refrigerator and keep some beverages cold at the same time... At least you won't need a furnace in the winter time...
+ScottieNiven That's a reasonable idea. I didn't do it right now since it takes a fair amount of work to do it properly. I'd like to shove some thermal compound under the transformers if I did it, or just cut holes underneath them to push heat sinks against.
Are the transformers thermally bonded to the metal floor in the unit? I think two old PC heatsinks and some quiet fans would work ok, if you mounted them upside down inside the battery compartment :)
Low frequency inverters have massive iron core transformers. So these should classify as low frequency. They were designed and built 20+ years before the difference was distinguished by marketing departments.
Have you test this setup with an inductive load? Like a motor from a compressor of powerjet wash? They have a high inrush current and low power factor. I like to use my powerjet wash on ups power. I measured it with my AMP clamp from mains and it draws 6.2A continues and 18.4A inrush (230V).
APC Smart-UPSes tend to handle inrush quite well, but I can't say much for certain. Never had this crap out on me despite using it to run a big vacuum cleaner.
Gentle Typhoon. Unf. consider doing some testing with thermistor-controlled fans by Nidec? the Beta V ones that came with old Dells were great, and I'm using one as the exhaust in my HP sleeper, as it's the best 92mm fan I had to use at the time.
+Rex Holes I don't think any amount of pressure makes much of a difference in this case, since we're talking about really small changes. I just like to think in terms of pressure when I'm thinking about how my fans are going to make the air move around.
I do similar mod to my APC Smart UPS 1000I and 1250 , the 1250 has a very loud fan 24 volts, and no exhaust to air, i drill a big hole on the side, problems resolved, now i need to put constant silent fan, i use ANtec silent fan.. works like charm, but using outside 12V, psu, i dont find a secure point inside to grab 12v , i do this mod for cooling batterys and circuits, now both UPS run cooler and silent on the night, next mod is adding a automatic circuit for turn on the fan when certain temperature is reached.
I have the same unit here, but since a few days I get an overload alarm, when mains goes down (or if I pull the powerconnector (that gives the APC 2200l its power) myself, even if there is not any device connected. Any idea what that could be?? Unit is from 2015. Anyone with a schematic?? Cheers Robbert
Good day! I get in my hands SUA 3000i (manf.date 2010). It has cooling fan with 2 speeds. 1-st speed is always on and very annoing during night, when ups load is off. Can i add circuit braker? I thing ups wiil bring internal fulty error or not? Thanks!
Why it should overheat? I'am turning off "load" (PC with monitor), then turn off with button on front panel UPS. If i right, it shouldn't go on battery backup after that. It just still force cooling fan to operate even if ups is off. I can understand working cooling for up to 10 minutes to cool internals, but after that it's annoying. Thanks for replay. And small question. Where did you get 5V for fans? Standart one is working on 24V if i right.
Hey man awesome video u inspired me I got one of these the other day for 60 bucks. I just put another fan one full for now but keep having the system shut off. I went into powerchute and it said time on battery threshold exceeded. I checked and couldn't find any where to change it. Battery still has good voltage I was only pulling 1400 watts and the transformers were only max 45c 115f. Any ideas. The board does sound different when running above 1000w
@@FFcossag I bought this cable will that let me get in? www.ebay.com/itm/APC-ap9827-940-0127B-Simple-Signaling-Back-UPS-Battery-USB-Cable-RJ50-RJ45-10pin/362361364319?epid=25003765518&hash=item545e6b9f5f:g:UaMAAOSwBkRZ9u-B
Then you've done something wrong, assuming that you've done the hack to reroute the front panel SMART data to the MAX232 going to the serial port. Keep in mind that I don't know if you can get SMART at all out of a MODBUS capable model.
@@FFcossag I have the old firmware, I bought a different serial cable cause one I had I think was a crossover or something weird, I am able to have the front panel work and not work with the flick of the switch i made just like u. So my guess is it's the serial cable i had
Your video is the closest I've come to see anyone give me an idea what I can tap off of to add a fan to one of my UPS's. I have a couple fans and thermistor etup that I' like to add but don' feel comfy tapping direct from the batteries... I hope you show were you tapped your fans off of.... regards... great video.
PS Since and because you are using those bottomless batteries you will probably get more heat a a result; at least in the initial charge up and during any recharges and run ups on battery. Unless that UPS is a double dipper or whatever they're called (always running DC to the front and converting to AC all of the time) it will always run hot. I was thinking, however, that since you have no batteries in the battery compartment you could convert the battery compartment into a refrigerator and keep some beverages cold at the same time... At least you won't need a furnace in the winter time...
Add fan to back for more improvements regarding cooling.
Put some heatsinks on the bottom of the transformers in the empty battery compartment, that could help with cooling them off.
+ScottieNiven That's a reasonable idea. I didn't do it right now since it takes a fair amount of work to do it properly. I'd like to shove some thermal compound under the transformers if I did it, or just cut holes underneath them to push heat sinks against.
+FFcossag The best way to cool transformers it to put them in a mineral oil, but thats kinda impractical for a UPS unit :D
Are the transformers thermally bonded to the metal floor in the unit? I think two old PC heatsinks and some quiet fans would work ok, if you mounted them upside down inside the battery compartment :)
Can i relocate the transformer to the battery compartment to reduce heat generated in that compartment?
Reply please, are this ups type low frequency or high frequency inverter ?
Low frequency inverters have massive iron core transformers. So these should classify as low frequency. They were designed and built 20+ years before the difference was distinguished by marketing departments.
@@duotronic6451 thank you sir
Have you test this setup with an inductive load? Like a motor from a compressor of powerjet wash? They have a high inrush current and low power factor. I like to use my powerjet wash on ups power. I measured it with my AMP clamp from mains and it draws 6.2A continues and 18.4A inrush (230V).
APC Smart-UPSes tend to handle inrush quite well, but I can't say much for certain. Never had this crap out on me despite using it to run a big vacuum cleaner.
Gentle Typhoon. Unf.
consider doing some testing with thermistor-controlled fans by Nidec? the Beta V ones that came with old Dells were great, and I'm using one as the exhaust in my HP sleeper, as it's the best 92mm fan I had to use at the time.
Pressurizing the inside help a bit, denser air=better heat transfer, having negative pressure isnt good
+Rex Holes I don't think any amount of pressure makes much of a difference in this case, since we're talking about really small changes. I just like to think in terms of pressure when I'm thinking about how my fans are going to make the air move around.
+FFcossag Fair enough but I have measured a difference in PC cases haveing negative vs positive pressure, it might help
I do similar mod to my APC Smart UPS 1000I and 1250 , the 1250 has a very loud fan 24 volts, and no exhaust to air, i drill a big hole on the side, problems resolved, now i need to put constant silent fan, i use ANtec silent fan.. works like charm, but using outside 12V, psu, i dont find a secure point inside to grab 12v , i do this mod for cooling batterys and circuits, now both UPS run cooler and silent on the night, next mod is adding a automatic circuit for turn on the fan when certain temperature is reached.
I have the same unit here, but since a few days I get an overload alarm, when mains goes down (or if I pull the powerconnector (that gives the APC 2200l its power) myself, even if there is not any device connected.
Any idea what that could be??
Unit is from 2015.
Anyone with a schematic??
Cheers
Robbert
What was the last part about?
Moaning because someone has to clean up afterwards? :D
+Das OSi Yep. I thoroughly ignored my policy of cleaning up between every different work moment.
sometimes one just wants to finish the task, cleaning up could break the flow :)
Good day!
I get in my hands SUA 3000i (manf.date 2010). It has cooling fan with 2 speeds. 1-st speed is always on and very annoing during night, when ups load is off. Can i add circuit braker? I thing ups wiil bring internal fulty error or not?
Thanks!
+Ruslan Zamaletdinow You probably can, but the UPS will overheat if the power goes out, so I would not recommend it.
Why it should overheat? I'am turning off "load" (PC with monitor), then turn off with button on front panel UPS. If i right, it shouldn't go on battery backup after that. It just still force cooling fan to operate even if ups is off. I can understand working cooling for up to 10 minutes to cool internals, but after that it's annoying.
Thanks for replay. And small question. Where did you get 5V for fans? Standart one is working on 24V if i right.
Oh about fans. I see now, thay are powerd by custom logic controller. Sorry)
Swept bladed fans are generally better and quieter
Thumbs up :)
Hey man awesome video u inspired me I got one of these the other day for 60 bucks. I just put another fan one full for now but keep having the system shut off. I went into powerchute and it said time on battery threshold exceeded. I checked and couldn't find any where to change it. Battery still has good voltage I was only pulling 1400 watts and the transformers were only max 45c 115f. Any ideas. The board does sound different when running above 1000w
You need to use the SMART protocol programming mode to change the number of external battery packs connected. Powerchute won't do that for you.
@@FFcossag I bought this cable will that let me get in?
www.ebay.com/itm/APC-ap9827-940-0127B-Simple-Signaling-Back-UPS-Battery-USB-Cable-RJ50-RJ45-10pin/362361364319?epid=25003765518&hash=item545e6b9f5f:g:UaMAAOSwBkRZ9u-B
@@FFcossag I made the switch and serial wire using the pinout but cant get putty yo come up i tried 2400 baud rate cause that's what everyone says
Then you've done something wrong, assuming that you've done the hack to reroute the front panel SMART data to the MAX232 going to the serial port. Keep in mind that I don't know if you can get SMART at all out of a MODBUS capable model.
@@FFcossag I have the old firmware, I bought a different serial cable cause one I had I think was a crossover or something weird, I am able to have the front panel work and not work with the flick of the switch i made just like u. So my guess is it's the serial cable i had