BMW E30 Timing Belt Pulley & Crankshaft Damage + Ghetto Repair!
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- Don't let this happen to you! If we hadn't found this, the engine would probably have been toast soon! In this video we discover and do our best to fix some serious damage to the crankshaft keyway, woodruff key and timing belt pulley. This is what happens if the main crank bolt isn't bolt properly torqued - it should be 410Nm (about 300 ft-lb).
In the year that we've been working on this car we've had the timing belt off four, maybe even five times., but we'd never taken off the bolt (or even checked it for that matter). Every time we put the belt back on we had trouble getting the timing marks to match up the first time. It turns out that's because the timing belt main pulley had all kinds of slop in it!
The opening clip is from just before we discovered the problem. We'd just put the timing belt on, and needed to take it off to fix a mistake we'd made installing the intermediate shaft seal. That's when we found around 5-7 degrees of slop in the timing belt pulley!
There were plenty of clues (like how easily the crankshaft main bolt came off, the issues we'd had matching timing marks, and the 'funny-looking' woodruff key). When we pulled it apart and gave it a closer look, the problems were obvious, and everything finally made sense.
Thankfully we have a 'spare engine' int the garage and the timing belt pulley and the woodruff key in that engine were perfect! Unfortunately the crankshaft keyway was damaged as well. With a drift event in a couple of days, and the crankshaft in the other engine known to have problems, we didn't have the time or the parts to fix it properly.
We test fit the new key and crank pulley and the drift was reduced to 2-3 degrees. it was also much more difficult to move it back and forth. Torqued properly, it might have been okay just like that. At least we would have been confident that the timing was correct.
We talked briefly about trying to tack weld the woodruff key in, but we were worried about all kinds of issues related to that (heat, alignment, machining it back down, and etc).
We settled on filling the gap with JB Weld because it was much better than nothing. We also made DAMN sure to get that main crankshaft bolt torqued down to spec.
Give us shit if you like, but I think, given all the factors at play, we did the right thing. Aligning the timing marks was easy for the first time! - Авто та транспорт
Potato bread castings, and JB Weld shims. Get 'r done!
I have the same problem with my engine's crank nose keyway... I'm wondering if I should fill with JB or instead grind a larger keyway. How's the engine doing today?
I would just JB weld it. My car is running very strong still!
noice
What you do is buy a bigger key and file fit it , easy to do
Just discovered the same problem but worse. How long did this hold?
Still holding strong even after many drift events, actually.
Read through the comments as there were some other good suggestions. The best is probably to carefully weld a bead where the metal is deformed/missing, then file it back to the original shape and put in a brand new key. Finally torque that bolt to spec and use your thread-locker (Locktite)
Jonas Van Horn no one in my area would do that job for me so I ordered a d16 from hmotorsonline for 800. Sad day. Only owned this particular car for a day before I discovered the crank eaten up!
Okay love the video I'm just wondering on the front end of the video you said to turn the engine around one full Revolution ......Are you saying to turn it by hand THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY.........WHAT ABOUT THE TOP ONE CAM PULLEY ??
Good question! After watching again, I guess that’s not very clear. So, yeah, the clip at the beginning of the video was after putting everything together the first time - with the timing belt on - Everything was spinning together. As you learn later in the video though, you shouldn’t have to do that. Things wouldn’t lineup reliably because of the problem you see with messed up key and keyway. Does that make sense?
loctite 660 is made for this repair
I think loctite 660 is only supposed to be used for gaps less than 0.5 millimetres.
So they damaged/missing side/extended/widened keyway is much bigger in this video....maybe 3mm?
So I'm not sure if 660 is made for this problem tbh. My keyway is similarly damaged and I'm a bit concerned it won't hold since it's a big area/volume.
Why not weld the side of the crank and file out the keyway back to shape?
I've been thinking about this since you posted months ago and keep thinking I'll come up with a snappy answer. I know we were worried about too much heat, but in hindsight...that's kinda dumb. If I had it to do again...
Can I say fuck the key and just loctight the bolt into it. Ej22 suburban engine
If you lost the woodruff key (the little half-moon-shaped chunk of metal that holds the pulley in line with the crank), then absolutely get a new one. They’re cheap and you can find them at good hardware stores and auto parts stores. Better still the dealer could probably sell you exactly the right one for cheap. If you’re talking about filling a gap like we had to, you could try it if you’re up for a gamble. If you care about the engine and don’t want to risk it though, a skilled welder could probably build it back up for you and you could carefully file it back and be confident in the repair. In any case though: proper torque and Locktite for sure.
No