Excellent, informative video; thank you for posting. Also... remember, DIYers: always have a pet cricket nearby when servicing your vintage tuner/receiver.
Thanks for posting this video. Your video and another about repairing the CR-2020, which I've owned since new, have inspired me to do some remedial (repair bulletin) and preventative maintenance.
I have a question about the CR-2020- my watt output meters don't move very much, even under a heavy load/high output...they do move somewhat but not accurate.... I saw on service manual that there is a VR701/702 pair of pots (I think) that allow for recalibration of the meters...can you tell me please, where are those two adjusters found inside the ce-2020....are they easy or difficult to access? thanks!
Don't go tweaking the pots. If both meters are not moving or moving little, there's something very wrong with the circuit that the pots won't change. They don't effect the calibration that much. More like a fine adjustment. Start first by using a contact cleaner like deoxit, crc qd, or similar to clean the push button switch that controls meter function at the lower left of the meters. He'll, if you push it on and off 50 times it might clean itself. If that doesn't work then meter circuit troubleshooting is in order.
Lol, bulbs have nothing to do with the speakers popping at shut off. If the 2020 pops, then the transistors in the protection circuit need to be replaced (they're leaking).
no hex nut or keeper that I know of on the 820. the balance know should just come off. you can use two spoons to get it off if it's stubborn. if I had an 820 I could demonstrate but I don't at the moment
It is really tight. The manual does indicate the need to remove any other screw, really afraid of breaking something. If you ever cross a video showing such removal, please let me know. Thanks for your prompt response.
I have a CR-1020 which plays fine for a while and then a loud crack/pop and the music stops. The unit is still on but no sound...radio, tape...nada. After turning off the unit and waiting for a while, it will play again, but only for a while before it stops again... Are you located in Southern California by any chance?
+Jordan Pier I've visited your website and bookmarked it. The next time I head south (I'm in Orange County), I'll make sure you're open and will bring my CR-1020...
Yamaha had the worst face illumination known to man. You can't even see the pointers in a dim room as the illumination washes everything on the face out. I had a CA-810 and tried a bunch of stuff to make it better. None were satisfactory. All you can see from 2 ft is an illuminated box, no lettering or pointers unless you are right up on it.
@@colneblues The IC is a yamaha IG164. Its a dual FEt but its not know what the specific specifications are. They are not published. There is someone in Russia selling a set, but at 55 bucks - they are pricey. I would do some hard troubleshooting and reveal whether the IG164 is really at fault, or whether its a support component. Compare with the working channel. Might be open power supply feed resistor, bad capacitor or something simple like a touchy MC/MM switch on the front panel. www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-transistors-IG164-2pc-RetroAudio/182420876509?hash=item2a7921acdd:g:6XEAAOSwa~BYeUPu
Your videos are informative, but your are making a couple of critical errors, the main one is, not understanding that ALL electrolytic & paper capacitors are worn out after 25+ years, there design life is more like 20, and they are long since worn out, regardless of what your silly little in-circuit ESR meter is telling you. First of all, ESR is not even the main way capacitors fail, leaking DC is, which you are not testing. Secondly, in circuit capacitor testing is iffy at best, capacitors, resistors, and other components are correctly tested with one lead disconnected, to prevent erroneous results from a shunt. So, to do the job correctly, all of those little can shaped capacitors need to be replaced as this receiver is around 40 years old. Another thing to give you a heads-up on, is the epidemic of counterfeit capacitors, these fakes from China are so convincing that even experts at the Japanese factories cannot tell the genuine from the fakes, visually. The key here is to only buy your caps from authorized dealers such as DigiKey and Mouser. If you are buying caps on ebay or amazon or the little shop down the street, you are almost certainly buying counterfeits. Go to the websites of the 6 premium capacitor manufacturers, namely Nichicon, Chemi-con, Rubycon, Panasonic, ELNA and Toshin Kogyo and you will be surprised at just how few authorized sources there are (hardly anyone besides the above named two) - Thanks for the heads up on moving the tuner to the right before removing cabinet and the importance of lamp type originality as it affects protection circuitry.
Great video....yes, like the real time scenes. Great to see how you actually do the stuff!
Excellent, informative video; thank you for posting. Also... remember, DIYers: always have a pet cricket nearby when servicing your vintage tuner/receiver.
Thank Mr Pier. Has always a very informative video.
All the best.
Bobby
That electrolytic cap board cooks the relay board above it to death. Silly design for such a wonderful sounding receiver.
Thanks for posting this video. Your video and another about repairing the CR-2020, which I've owned since new, have inspired me to do some remedial (repair bulletin) and preventative maintenance.
Fantastic video! None of it was boring at all! Thanks for posting. Great information.
An ESR meter in fact will tell you if a cap is bad if it reads bad, though it will not tell you if it is good if it reads good.
Do you have a video of service on a Yamaha cr 820?
I have a question about the CR-2020- my watt output meters don't move very much, even under a heavy load/high output...they do move somewhat but not accurate.... I saw on service manual that there is a VR701/702 pair of pots (I think) that allow for recalibration of the meters...can you tell me please, where are those two adjusters found inside the ce-2020....are they easy or difficult to access? thanks!
Don't go tweaking the pots.
If both meters are not moving or moving little, there's something very wrong with the circuit that the pots won't change. They don't effect the calibration that much. More like a fine adjustment.
Start first by using a contact cleaner like deoxit, crc qd, or similar to clean the push button switch that controls meter function at the lower left of the meters. He'll, if you push it on and off 50 times it might clean itself.
If that doesn't work then meter circuit troubleshooting is in order.
how do I reach you for repair on a couple of very early 80's yamaha pieces?
Lol, bulbs have nothing to do with the speakers popping at shut off. If the 2020 pops, then the transistors in the protection circuit need to be replaced (they're leaking).
Do you still work on these? Are you in la area? How could I contact you? Thank you great video
San Diego. Call the shop. Repairaudio (dot) com
Hi....Great Video..Can you make a video showing how to remove the front plate of a yamaha cr820? I couldn't remove the balance knob. Thanks.
no hex nut or keeper that I know of on the 820. the balance know should just come off. you can use two spoons to get it off if it's stubborn. if I had an 820 I could demonstrate but I don't at the moment
It is really tight. The manual does indicate the need to remove any other screw, really afraid of breaking something. If you ever cross a video showing such removal, please let me know. Thanks for your prompt response.
I have a CR-1020 which plays fine for a while and then a loud crack/pop and the music stops. The unit is still on but no sound...radio, tape...nada. After turning off the unit and waiting for a while, it will play again, but only for a while before it stops again... Are you located in Southern California by any chance?
Sunny San Diego! you can come down to my workplace. see repairaudio.com for more info
+Jordan Pier I've visited your website and bookmarked it. The next time I head south (I'm in Orange County), I'll make sure you're open and will bring my CR-1020...
I have the same unit - the same problem...curious what causing this...age?
WITT33 age and poor choice of parts when it was made
Nice work, but I really think you would be well advised to clean your workplace
Is it expensive to have this done?
To fully service a 2020 in 2022 (not including a recap) is around 275-325
Yamaha had the worst face illumination known to man. You can't even see the pointers in a dim room as the illumination washes everything on the face out. I had a CA-810 and tried a bunch of stuff to make it better. None were satisfactory. All you can see from 2 ft is an illuminated box, no lettering or pointers unless you are right up on it.
I need an mc164 as the MC phono stage doesn’t work properly. Any help?!?
Mc164 doesn't come up as anything rated to an amp or op amp IC
@@JordanPier hank you so much for getting back! The tech guy says It's badged as yamaha... L6164. Maybe i6164.🤷🏻♂️
@@colneblues which model yamaha? I'll see if I cAn pull up the schematics
@@JordanPier hi again, it’s the same. Cr2020. And the problem is in the mc phono
@@colneblues The IC is a yamaha IG164. Its a dual FEt but its not know what the specific specifications are. They are not published.
There is someone in Russia selling a set, but at 55 bucks - they are pricey.
I would do some hard troubleshooting and reveal whether the IG164 is really at fault, or whether its a support component. Compare with the working channel. Might be open power supply feed resistor, bad capacitor or something simple like a touchy MC/MM switch on the front panel.
www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-transistors-IG164-2pc-RetroAudio/182420876509?hash=item2a7921acdd:g:6XEAAOSwa~BYeUPu
Your videos are informative, but your are making a couple of critical errors, the main one is, not understanding that ALL electrolytic & paper capacitors are worn out after 25+ years, there design life is more like 20, and they are long since worn out, regardless of what your silly little in-circuit ESR meter is telling you. First of all, ESR is not even the main way capacitors fail, leaking DC is, which you are not testing. Secondly, in circuit capacitor testing is iffy at best, capacitors, resistors, and other components are correctly tested with one lead disconnected, to prevent erroneous results from a shunt. So, to do the job correctly, all of those little can shaped capacitors need to be replaced as this receiver is around 40 years old. Another thing to give you a heads-up on, is the epidemic of counterfeit capacitors, these fakes from China are so convincing that even experts at the Japanese factories cannot tell the genuine from the fakes, visually. The key here is to only buy your caps from authorized dealers such as DigiKey and Mouser. If you are buying caps on ebay or amazon or the little shop down the street, you are almost certainly buying counterfeits. Go to the websites of the 6 premium capacitor manufacturers, namely Nichicon, Chemi-con, Rubycon, Panasonic, ELNA and Toshin Kogyo and you will be surprised at just how few authorized sources there are (hardly anyone besides the above named two) - Thanks for the heads up on moving the tuner to the right before removing cabinet and the importance of lamp type originality as it affects protection circuitry.
Yamaha really failed hard on the lighting for these receivers, looks terrible