Dude you actually really helped me. I ended up having my rod backwards cuz I couldn't see my timing marks on my custom install on a Datsun roadster. You help me tremendously. I ended up having the rod backwards which caused four 4321 firing order instead of one two three four. So I just switched out around the plugs and now I'm running.
Appreciate the video, in the middle of a timing chain job on my 97. Replacing oil n wtr pump and all seals. Also putting a ratcheting tension on. Thanks again!
thank you. replaced my head, timing chain, and the sprockets on the head and crank. was having trouble timing my engine. video was a life saver. thank you again
The factory is not going to guess and stab. I was wondering what their trick was to get it timed without getting frustrated? Index marks. Thanks for sharing. This is helpful.
I found that doing this when the engine is still in the car to be difficult. The crank gears move the tdc mark off a tooth and the timing is not correct. Maybe if i push it in a slight angle so the tooth on the gear realign correctly?
@@i2edeye im going to give it another try. It ran for a few weeks and started to backfire out the intake. Maybe bad valves too but i know the timing wasnt 100% confident on
@@goat_horde Checking the clocking of the drive tab. You can see it in the title screen pic on the 521 timing vid. The KA and L Series are pretty much the same.
Verify that engine is time but its off on the distributor since the rotor is facing the 3rd firing point on tdc i wanna say its 90° off is my only option ? to take off the oil pump and line up like or is there way i can without
If it is exactly 90 you can move the #1 spark plug to the #3 spot on the cap and reorder the other spark plug wires accordingly. Not ideal but doable. You could in theory put a slotted plate at the base of the distributor that allows almost infinite adjustability also. The issue arises if you are off a lot, you can damage valves and pistons or backfire hard enough to blow up a muffler. You want to be sure you are set to 12deg btdc (KA Ignition Timing) at the distributor before starting the engine.
@@i2edeye I wound up doing tdc but then oil pump wouldn’t line up with where distributor was. I think it was a little off. I lined up the notch on top and dot to the side, distributor pointing to no1 spark plug, and did the screwdriver thing in spark plug hole where it reached the compression stroke. Also the degree dots on the front, it was pointing to the far left one. Before it was set to the far right side. The Haynes book seems to say it should be on the second one. But I had an old mechanic do stuff a while back. Hasn’t seemed to run the best for a while. Hopefully I did something right.
I have tried everything and lined it up 100 times and still cant get it to start... I did not mess with the chain just the guides and after installing i got no oil pressure (i solved that) now i cant get timing right even when everything is TDC and lined up as it should be.
Are you able to verify cam timing to the crank? If so, you should be able to set the static timing (not running) with no bolts in the distributor to see how far off you are on the drive spindle.
@@i2edeye so pull the valve cover off and verify i have tdc on piston 1 with exhaust lobe to the lower right and intake lobes to the lower left and the chain marks line up? if all this is correct im not sure why it wont go back to original timing.
@@i2edeye yes it points to bottom right every time. also in the video you say the oil pump spindle must be lined up with the dot and which it is upon install and the half moon points exactly how you have it in the video yet it still refuses to start.
Dude you actually really helped me. I ended up having my rod backwards cuz I couldn't see my timing marks on my custom install on a Datsun roadster. You help me tremendously. I ended up having the rod backwards which caused four 4321 firing order instead of one two three four. So I just switched out around the plugs and now I'm running.
Glad to help. Nice solution :D
I've looked at alot of videos and u have helped me a lot more than all of them together thank u
Glad to help
Appreciate the video, in the middle of a timing chain job on my 97. Replacing oil n wtr pump and all seals. Also putting a ratcheting tension on. Thanks again!
Glad to help. Wish I had known about the ratcheting tensioner before I put my last one together. Next time I will be upgrading.
thank you. replaced my head, timing chain, and the sprockets on the head and crank. was having trouble timing my engine. video was a life saver. thank you again
Glad to help.
My bro thank you for the video that will surely help me out and others as well. Keep up the great content and God bless
Glad to help. :)
The factory is not going to guess and stab. I was wondering what their trick was to get it timed without getting frustrated? Index marks. Thanks for sharing. This is helpful.
Glad to help
"i filmed that" 😂 i appreciate you bro
Thank you :)
I found that doing this when the engine is still in the car to be difficult. The crank gears move the tdc mark off a tooth and the timing is not correct. Maybe if i push it in a slight angle so the tooth on the gear realign correctly?
I show this in my latest video, it can be a hassle. if you find it keeps clocking a tooth on install, try pre-clocking it.
@@i2edeye im going to give it another try. It ran for a few weeks and started to backfire out the intake. Maybe bad valves too but i know the timing wasnt 100% confident on
@@goat_horde Checking the clocking of the drive tab. You can see it in the title screen pic on the 521 timing vid. The KA and L Series are pretty much the same.
Verify that engine is time but its off on the distributor since the rotor is facing the 3rd firing point on tdc i wanna say its 90° off is my only option ? to take off the oil pump and line up like or is there way i can without
If it is exactly 90 you can move the #1 spark plug to the #3 spot on the cap and reorder the other spark plug wires accordingly. Not ideal but doable. You could in theory put a slotted plate at the base of the distributor that allows almost infinite adjustability also. The issue arises if you are off a lot, you can damage valves and pistons or backfire hard enough to blow up a muffler. You want to be sure you are set to 12deg btdc (KA Ignition Timing) at the distributor before starting the engine.
Love this. Getting ready to overhaul mine
Thank you. I just picked up my dual cam from the machine shop :)
Can I tite the timing cover with. the oil. pump
Can you tite the oil pump and distrubtor with the timing cover please
@@eliuarona You want to install and tighten the timing chain cover before installing the oil pump
If I’m only replacing oil pump and I clamp down distributor, I don’t need to tdc right?
Yes, but I would set to TDC just in case.
@@i2edeye I wound up doing tdc but then oil pump wouldn’t line up with where distributor was. I think it was a little off. I lined up the notch on top and dot to the side, distributor pointing to no1 spark plug, and did the screwdriver thing in spark plug hole where it reached the compression stroke. Also the degree dots on the front, it was pointing to the far left one. Before it was set to the far right side. The Haynes book seems to say it should be on the second one. But I had an old mechanic do stuff a while back. Hasn’t seemed to run the best for a while. Hopefully I did something right.
@@obedmccalip9449 There should be one dot or notch bigger than the others, that one is TDC. There is more dots on the advance side.
@@i2edeye Thanks. I’ll check it out later.
Is it possible to destroy or make the oil pump inefficient by rotating the distributor to make timing adjustments?
No. The interface between the pump drive and distributor drive doesn't move when you turn the distributor housing.
It did help alot thanks!
Glad to hear
I have tried everything and lined it up 100 times and still cant get it to start... I did not mess with the chain just the guides and after installing i got no oil pressure (i solved that) now i cant get timing right even when everything is TDC and lined up as it should be.
Are you able to verify cam timing to the crank? If so, you should be able to set the static timing (not running) with no bolts in the distributor to see how far off you are on the drive spindle.
@@i2edeye so pull the valve cover off and verify i have tdc on piston 1 with exhaust lobe to the lower right and intake lobes to the lower left and the chain marks line up? if all this is correct im not sure why it wont go back to original timing.
@@NightKnight1776 the oil pump and drive spindle can go in any which way. Is the rotor pointing at the number one plug wire?
@@i2edeye yes it points to bottom right every time. also in the video you say the oil pump spindle must be lined up with the dot and which it is upon install and the half moon points exactly how you have it in the video yet it still refuses to start.
@@NightKnight1776 Sounds like you have another issue. Are you getting power to the positive side of the coil with the ignition on?
THX!!! It was very useful!
Glad to help
Thank you it's helped me 🙏🤝
Glad to help. :)
Lifesaver, bro
Glad it helped.
holy fucking shit i think the oil pump shaft was off a tooth on mine making it not run unless advanced passed the point of adjustment
It's easy to bump the drive gear and get it a tooth off during installation. The 521 I am cleaning up has the same thing going on.
@@i2edeye yea its a pain in the ass, i gotta rip it out tomo
@@Nimbus. Good luck :)
@@i2edeye thank you, its a nightmare in this 105 degree heat
@@Nimbus. Drink lots of water
Boss a u moch Distributor drivo
A u moch distributor drivo
?
Thanks brother
Glad to help
Very nice
Thank you
Good info thanks
Happy to help :)
Amazing
Thank you
Sure helped!
Glad to hear it :)
Roter part number
Nissan
Distributor Rotor
Part Number: 22157-21E01
Gud.job
Thank you
I was finn make the video how to do it. Because I went through hell nd hot water😂
Takes forever to get it straight lol
@@i2edeye😂😂ong
Great video
Thank you
Thank you very much!
Glad to help.