Another outstanding review of an outstanding musket! Noah has done an excellent of keeping it ready. And ringing steel at 100 yds? Fudd hearts (and myths) are breaking everywhere. 😂
Ahh, the old myth about the powder charge rears its head again. According to the book "Small Arms of the British Forces in America 1664-1815" lists the British service charge of 6 drams (165 grains) and for carbines 4 1/2 drams (123 3/4 grains). The difference is that the powder in those days is not as strong as the commercially made but these guns are not the weaklings that some think they are. They are also not rifles which in most instances tend to be less accurate with more powder but even my CVA Mountain rifle with my own powder does really well with 80 grains of FFG and a .45 Maxi bullet out to 140 yards.
Depending on the time. In the 1770s the French were using a roller press while being the best powder of the era they could only go to five tons of pressure and even then it was usually more like 3 and 1/2. Whereas nowadays we can compress it clear up to 20 tons during the revolution and the Napoleonic wars, the French powder was not very good at all. They used artillery powder for everything and even then it wasn't consistent in size of grain. Also, the French had a different ratio at that time that while being excellent for artillery wasn't exactly well suited for musket's@@mkultraification
I would try tin. It can be purchased as “non-lead” solder in the US. The melting point is about the same and so is the hardness. It is lighter weight and expensive though.
Good morning Ethan and Family. I assume you guys have snow on the ground about now. Here in the east, I live far enough where snow is unusual, but it is still in the high 20s this morning. I just wanted to drop a line to say hi on this Lords day, and let y'all know there are folks that really enjoy your videos. Be well. Be safe. See you on the next video.
@@Real11BangBang It's an iron mounted Virginia circa 1770. I just have to get to the forge to make the buttplate and trigger guard so I can get started.
I bought an English Trade Gun from Military Heritage. I like it. It sparks very well. I installed a touch hole liner. My only concern is that it came with some smallish pits in the bore. Is there something I should do about it. Just clean really well?
Hey TC, this is Ethan. I've been building a French model 1774 myself from the rifle shop got to say much easier than the wheellock. Maybe whenever I get back from the thing that I'm at right now in the spring we should get together and do some flintlock shooting
I was paying close attention to the curved cheek stock. 😂 Gee, I wonder why that came up with that? I shot a bunch of rounds downrange after I got my Charleville and was working up loads and whatnot. Pretty exciting day! Later, sitting ‘round the campfire, I couldn’t fiqure why my cheekbone felt so sore. Yippee, not a bum tooth starting it was my good ‘ol Charleville still making memories! 😊
I was hanging around in a local shop when a young guy came in with an old musket he wanted to sell. The shop wasn't interested in buying it so I offered the guy $50. There were things wrong with it, parts missing, the hammer spring was missing so it just swung loosely, turns out the plug was drilled so it couldn't be fired. It's been a neglected project, I'll get back to it some day. Your excellent video has given me some impetus to look at it again. The 1777 must've been a good one, the Harper's Ferry 1842 is very similar to it other than being a percussion ignition musket.
@@usnchief1339Sounds about right, hot water and patches. I used to do ACW, and we'd fill coffee pots (or use the day old coffee, LOL), and heat up water for cleaning after battles.
Is it possible to do any kind of trigger job for a flintlock? I have a 1795 Springfield from Veteran Arms arms and the trigger is horrendous. You are an awesome shot with your muskets and I am not sure if you are just used to the crap triggers or if there is anything you can share to help make them better. Great stuff as always!
So I don't generally have to do work on the military heritage triggers. They seem decent enough. I do have one that I had to work on on the blunderbuss and the name of the game is polish polish polish but whenever polishing the tumbler make sure and be careful to not polish away too much material where the sear catches on the full cock notch. Also, if you want to make it a faster lock. if you harden the lock plate, tumbler, sear, and bridal and then continue polishing them. It will make for a much faster lock and cleaner trigger pull
My son has the 1777 French Cavalry Carbine an though it is a fun gun it takes two man and a boy to pull the trigger! I am not a trigger snob by any means but this is probably around a 20 lb pull. How do we fix that?
I'm going to go out on a limb and say polish the tumbler and the sear where they intersect with each other... Polish polish polish that is the name of the game.
I don't personally consider it one the term Charleville I generally only use for the 1766 musket because it was actually developed at Charleville whereas the 1777 was developed at St Etienne
So for me personally, I prefer ol char mainly for the fact that it was my first flintlock musket that I personally owned and it is a lot lighter, but I still think the 1777 was better design overall, with small things like the alloy pan that was corrosion resistant
Hello Boys, sorry for my English language, I'm writing from Poland. I very like Your videos, can You help me ? i want to know something. I have Enfield 1853, hawken 50 twist 24'' 54 twist 48'' and colt navy 1851. Europe Union try to ban lead ammo in my country, could You tell me about non lead ammo ? Did my gun, traditional muzelloaders able to shoot non lead ammo ? copper ball and bullet or something like that ? Did People in USA hunting with old muzzelloaders like hakwens, Pennsylvania, kentucky with non lead ammo ?
@@Real11BangBang I read through the comments and found this one to be very interesting. I am an amateur blade maker and I was thinking of metal hardness. The Rockwell Hardness chart can be referenced to fine typical metal hardness. I was brainstorming and the idea of Brass which is a mixture of copper and zinc. Perhaps playing with the mixture could produce a brass with softer qualities. A press with a gauge might give clues to different alloys hardness. It could lead to a game changer if a soft inert projectile can be economically produced. I know it would not be historically correct, but these are crazy times. Just a thought.
I wonder if an exception for historic arms could be lobbied for. Maybe the original poster should contact cap and ball channel to see if that is already in the works. My opinion on lead restrictions for projectiles does not help your situation, so I will skip giving it except there is no scientific reason to restrict lead projectiles for historic arms... good luck
The afghanis in Kipling's day used a hammered iron bullet with buckskin patch. I would say literally any material will work as long as the patch is strong enough.
There are possibilities. One is zinc. Get some zinc tire Weights and melt them in a cast iron pot and cast them in a steel mold. Zinc melts and pours ok but at a higher temperature than lead. Another possibility is lead free pewter which is basically a tin alloy. You can buy old mugs and candlesticks at second hand stores on half price days and melt them down and cast projectiles in aluminum molds or steel molds if that's what you have. These alloys will cast a lighter projectile so you may want to try the heaviest weight mold for casting them. Good luck and God bless
Man, I have never seen anyone shoot so well with a smoothbore flintlock as you. At reenactments when people talk about the poor accuracy of them, I say that is mostly true unless you are Ethan Woods. Building up the legend of your name recommending the videos lol. I can’t hit a man size target past 70 yards with one. But it’s all operator error.
.638 this was the ball diameter that the french army was using during the development of the 1777 however, it is often referred to as a 64 caliber considering it's only 2/1000s of an inch smaller
That is one heckuva musket!
thank you santee
I’m the same way Military Heritage was my first start at smooth bore flintlock muskets.
Man I sure love the way you teach the history in between the shooting
Good way to start a week is by watching this channel.
thankyou very much
Another outstanding review of an outstanding musket! Noah has done an excellent of keeping it ready. And ringing steel at 100 yds? Fudd hearts (and myths) are breaking everywhere. 😂
Thanks for the comment, Yep, noah keeps his flint sharp and his powder dry.
Ahh, the old myth about the powder charge rears its head again. According to the book "Small Arms of the British Forces in America 1664-1815" lists the British service charge of 6 drams (165 grains) and for carbines 4 1/2 drams (123 3/4 grains). The difference is that the powder in those days is not as strong as the commercially made but these guns are not the weaklings that some think they are. They are also not rifles which in most instances tend to be less accurate with more powder but even my CVA Mountain rifle with my own powder does really well with 80 grains of FFG and a .45 Maxi bullet out to 140 yards.
Most commercially made powder is, in fact, weaker than the powder of the time, especially French powder.
Depending on the time. In the 1770s the French were using a roller press while being the best powder of the era they could only go to five tons of pressure and even then it was usually more like 3 and 1/2. Whereas nowadays we can compress it clear up to 20 tons during the revolution and the Napoleonic wars, the French powder was not very good at all. They used artillery powder for everything and even then it wasn't consistent in size of grain. Also, the French had a different ratio at that time that while being excellent for artillery wasn't exactly well suited for musket's@@mkultraification
I would try tin. It can be purchased as “non-lead” solder in the US. The melting point is about the same and so is the hardness. It is lighter weight and expensive though.
Good morning Ethan and Family. I assume you guys have snow on the ground about now. Here in the east, I live far enough where snow is unusual, but it is still in the high 20s this morning. I just wanted to drop a line to say hi on this Lords day, and let y'all know there are folks that really enjoy your videos. Be well. Be safe. See you on the next video.
Thank you so much for the kind words! And yes it's cold all right about -30° wind chill not a whole lot of snow...
yet
Great video Ethan. Thanks for all you do to dispell the modern myths. Flintlocks Forever!!!
TC
thank you tc. im still curious what tour new build was going to be
@@Real11BangBang It's an iron mounted Virginia circa 1770. I just have to get to the forge to make the buttplate and trigger guard so I can get started.
I bought an English Trade Gun from Military Heritage. I like it. It sparks very well. I installed a touch hole liner. My only concern is that it came with some smallish pits in the bore. Is there something I should do about it. Just clean really well?
Hey TC, this is Ethan. I've been building a French model 1774 myself from the rifle shop got to say much easier than the wheellock. Maybe whenever I get back from the thing that I'm at right now in the spring we should get together and do some flintlock shooting
Nice to hear from you Ethan. Thanks for your good work.
Good morning from Syracuse NY brother and everyone else
goodmorning to you as well
Thank you my friend
Thank you Ethan for the video I greatly enjoyed it.
Glad you enjoyed it!
What fun and good shootin! Kind Thanks from DaveyJO in Pennsylvania!
Our pleasure!
I like this 1777 French Musket. Nice shooting thanks for the history lesson! David Back.
I was paying close attention to the curved cheek stock. 😂 Gee, I wonder why that came up with that? I shot a bunch of rounds downrange after I got my Charleville and was working up loads and whatnot. Pretty exciting day! Later, sitting ‘round the campfire, I couldn’t fiqure why my cheekbone felt so sore. Yippee, not a bum tooth starting it was my good ‘ol Charleville still making memories! 😊
You have great screen presence.
Thanks, I have been concerned over that.
Loved it, Ethan is having to much fun!
lol messy fun
I love mine. Just restained and glossed it today.
very nice
I really enjoy your videos 🤙
I appreciate that!
I was hanging around in a local shop when a young guy came in with an old musket he wanted to sell. The shop wasn't interested in buying it so I offered the guy $50. There were things wrong with it, parts missing, the hammer spring was missing so it just swung loosely, turns out the plug was drilled so it couldn't be fired. It's been a neglected project, I'll get back to it some day. Your excellent video has given me some impetus to look at it again.
The 1777 must've been a good one, the Harper's Ferry 1842 is very similar to it other than being a percussion ignition musket.
Charleville rules.
Good times good to know about the cheek hold
lol yes it can really whack you
Love to France from America❤️
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Do you cast your own lead balls? If so what mold do you use and what size? Just picked up this same musket.
Ah I love the view of black powder in the morning!
Might be interesting to see how the soldiers would clean their weapons after battles
I have read in the past they would have large pots of hot water for the troops to clean their weapons. However, I would love to really know.
@@usnchief1339Sounds about right, hot water and patches. I used to do ACW, and we'd fill coffee pots (or use the day old coffee, LOL), and heat up water for cleaning after battles.
Good morning Ethan and family. That is a beautiful rifle and may you have a blessed Lord's day.
thank you verymuch
I like the old European military rules that stated the powder charge should weigh 1/3 of the ball weight.
Is it possible to do any kind of trigger job for a flintlock? I have a 1795 Springfield from Veteran Arms arms and the trigger is horrendous. You are an awesome shot with your muskets and I am not sure if you are just used to the crap triggers or if there is anything you can share to help make them better. Great stuff as always!
So I don't generally have to do work on the military heritage triggers. They seem decent enough. I do have one that I had to work on on the blunderbuss and the name of the game is polish polish polish but whenever polishing the tumbler make sure and be careful to not polish away too much material where the sear catches on the full cock notch. Also, if you want to make it a faster lock. if you harden the lock plate, tumbler, sear, and bridal and then continue polishing them. It will make for a much faster lock and cleaner trigger pull
@@Real11BangBang Thanks!
Firearm technology: I appreciate where we came from. I appreciate where we are.
Good video
Thanks
Nice review. I have the same gun myself, and I have noticed that the barrel seems wider at the chamber end. Is that your or others experience too?
It's supposed to be.
I mean of course inside of the barrel
Im guessing back in the day, these guns had flaws too. Cranking them out as fast as possible for war. Im thinking about the trade gun.
Military heritage sent me a brown bess instead of the French. Love my Bess, you can't just have one they get lonely
lol like Pokémon gotta catch them all
My son has the 1777 French Cavalry Carbine an though it is a fun gun it takes two man and a boy to pull the trigger! I am not a trigger snob by any means but this is probably around a 20 lb pull. How do we fix that?
I'm going to go out on a limb and say polish the tumbler and the sear where they intersect with each other...
Polish polish polish that is the name of the game.
@@Real11BangBang OK, I haven't removed the trigger from the gun but of course the lock is easy and I have had it off to fit and clean up.
Do you recommend loyalist arms ? Are they as reputable as military heritage?
i have never purchased through loyalist but hoffman reproductions has and he gets along great.
So this sis still considered a "Charleville"
I don't personally consider it one the term Charleville I generally only use for the 1766 musket because it was actually developed at Charleville whereas the 1777 was developed at St Etienne
So, which do you like better, The 1777 or ole Char? Same musket.
So for me personally, I prefer ol char mainly for the fact that it was my first flintlock musket that I personally owned and it is a lot lighter, but I still think the 1777 was better design overall, with small things like the alloy pan that was corrosion resistant
I got a kick out of the powder on your face. 😂
lol yeah Black powder muskets tend to get meesy after a hundred rounds
Hello Boys, sorry for my English language, I'm writing from Poland.
I very like Your videos, can You help me ? i want to know something.
I have Enfield 1853, hawken 50 twist 24'' 54 twist 48'' and colt navy 1851.
Europe Union try to ban lead ammo in my country, could You tell me about non lead ammo ?
Did my gun, traditional muzelloaders able to shoot non lead ammo ? copper ball and bullet or something like that ?
Did People in USA hunting with old muzzelloaders like hakwens, Pennsylvania, kentucky with non lead ammo ?
you could try tin but it seems very hard to me. i am not aware of anything other then lead/lead tinbeing used historically.
@@Real11BangBang I read through the comments and found this one to be very interesting. I am an amateur blade maker and I was thinking of metal hardness. The Rockwell Hardness chart can be referenced to fine typical metal hardness. I was brainstorming and the idea of Brass which is a mixture of copper and zinc. Perhaps playing with the mixture could produce a brass with softer qualities. A press with a gauge might give clues to different alloys hardness. It could lead to a game changer if a soft inert projectile can be economically produced. I know it would not be historically correct, but these are crazy times. Just a thought.
I wonder if an exception for historic arms could be lobbied for. Maybe the original poster should contact cap and ball channel to see if that is already in the works. My opinion on lead restrictions for projectiles does not help your situation, so I will skip giving it except there is no scientific reason to restrict lead projectiles for historic arms... good luck
The afghanis in Kipling's day used a hammered iron bullet with buckskin patch. I would say literally any material will work as long as the patch is strong enough.
There are possibilities.
One is zinc. Get some zinc tire
Weights and melt them in a cast iron pot and cast them in a steel mold.
Zinc melts and pours ok but at a higher temperature than lead.
Another possibility is lead free pewter which is basically a tin alloy.
You can buy old mugs and candlesticks at second hand stores on half price days and melt them down and cast projectiles in aluminum molds or steel molds if that's what you have.
These alloys will cast a lighter projectile so you may want to try the heaviest weight mold for casting them.
Good luck and God bless
Have you done a video on the yager rifle didn't know
we dont currently have one at the moment
This is Juan just curious because I didn't see you make a video of won yet
no we dont have one but it would be nice wouldn't it. lol loomis stole our yager!
Looking at a 1777 from loyalist arm , I have no experience with this company . Do you have any experience or opinions about this company?
no but Hoffman reproductions has several reveiws on them
Will the brass/bronze pan hold up ?
They allways have
What drill bit did you use?
it is all in here ua-cam.com/video/taQTktYbEAA/v-deo.htmlsi=21q2AfbjQ2daEUlv
Tell me. Does military heritage have any rifled muskets?
no i do not think they have any with rifleing
Man, I have never seen anyone shoot so well with a smoothbore flintlock as you. At reenactments when people talk about the poor accuracy of them, I say that is mostly true unless you are Ethan Woods. Building up the legend of your name recommending the videos lol. I can’t hit a man size target past 70 yards with one. But it’s all operator error.
thankyou very much
What size ball are you using?
.638 this was the ball diameter that the french army was using during the development of the 1777 however, it is often referred to as a 64 caliber considering it's only 2/1000s of an inch smaller
Where can I get that musket that’s not smooth bore? Somebody help.
if its an 1777 it has to be smooth bore
Next time please film in the day. I couldn't make out any details of the gun.
go check out our historical review of this gun from 1 weeks ago its in doors. with our qork schedule we can not pick and choose when we film
I may have missed it, but the other myth is 4f only for pan priming
lol yes if you could prim with 4f that would leave out virtually every military musket
Would you reccomend this over the 1766?
From personal standpoint, I prefer the 1766 mainly for the history. But as a military arm, yes
@Real11BangBang Thanks! That makes alot of sense. I'm seriously debating between this, the 1766, and the Springfield 1816 for my first Musket.
#EthanDisprovesBlackPowderFuddlore
lol a new trend
Thank you for the video Ethan sure enjoy watching add homemade powder looks like mine got you looking like a grease monkey
This is my comment.
lol thanks
@Real11BangBang liked the video and commented for the algorithm.