Cutting an External Thread on the Proxxon PD 250/e Lathe
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- A detailed look at the custom external thread I cut for the Gear Cutter Arbor. This video goes over the details of cutting a thread on a Proxxon mini lathe, including full setup, and every detail of the cutting operation itself.
OnShape CAD model:
cad.onshape.co...
The links below will financially support this channel if you use them to buy stuff:
Machines:
Proxxon PD 250/e Lathe - ebay.us/5wRMlb
Materials:
42CrMo4 Hot Rolled Engineering Steel 30mm round bar
Easy Lemon 30 Second by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/
Thanks for the reminder to clean the tools. I get so involved in my jobs that swarf and tools can build up on the workbench to a dangerous point.
I try to do a 3 minute cleanup every hour. Returning tools to the box and a quick hovering of the swarth. I Learned this from my dad as a child. I set an alarm so I do not forget. Problem is the shop stays neat but never actually gets clean. So a good deep clean-up, at start up, is a good idea.
I wish I'd been given this advice three years ago, when I was setting up shop. I used to really let the clutter and mess accumulate, and lots of my key surfaces are worn and damaged. I've learned to be really strict with my ways and contact surfaces now, and clean them as often as possible.
Please provide the address for the distributor of *Proxxon FD-150, in Indonesia* .
@@Dodi-nz3fd please post your question again to "adventures " because the "frog" does not know the answer 🐸😐🙂
Traducir a español
Gracias por el recordatorio para limpiar las herramientas. Me involucro tanto en mi trabajo que las virutas y las herramientas pueden acumularse en la mesa de trabajo hasta un punto peligroso. Trato de hacer una limpieza de 3 minutos cada hora. Devolver las herramientas a la caja y un rápido vuelo sobre la hilera. Aprendí esto de mi papá cuando era niño. Puse una alarma para no olvidar. El problema es que la tienda se mantiene ordenada pero en realidad nunca se limpia. Así que una buena limpieza profunda, al inicio, es una buena idea
thank fuck for someone who can actually speak clearly and understandably. and sounds like he actually knows what he is doing. plus as a truly outstanding feature, no pounding drums or swirling whooshing intrusive background shit music drowning out what he is saying. outstanding vid, subbed, ty
Thanks! I try my best to be all those things, though it took me a few videos to learn to get rid of the shit music.
Just received my PD 250 that I bought after watching your videos.
Thank you :)
The split view was brilliant!
Thanks! It takes a bit of camera wrangling, and bogs the editor down, so I'm glad to hear it was worth it.
Those kids are constant with it aren't they LOL. I always thought the sound of my kids playing and inevitably fighting was exclusive to my own household. Your video brings the comfort of home with the joy of skill development. Thanks for your content.
Nice lathe. Very informative. Your compound slide is in an angle, every time you advance the compound slide forward you are moving the cutting tool forward and toward the spindle ever so slightly, that will throw off your initial starting point.
This is intentional. The compound is set to an angle that matches one side of the thread. This ensures that only one side of the threading tool is cutting which is more stable, especially on a small light lathe.
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe I see what you mean. Cutting one side of the thread only will result in inconsistency thread per inch. You will have improper threads fitting. You’re cutting the left side of the thread and leaving the other side looking like a stairway every time you advance your angle compound. You will not notice this with naked eyes but under a microscope you will see the right side of the V will look like a microscopic stair way.
After watching another video about the Proxxon by someone who had no idea what they were doing, it was refreshing to see this video. Good job!
Great vid. Best description of threading I’ve seen.
As a complete newcomer, this was excellent information. Thanks very much.
You inspired confidence in me doing this on my lathe, thank you.
I think this is one of the greatest comments I've ever received. If my shambling efforts have helped just one person to push themselves further and do more, then it's worth it. :)
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe I appreciate your efforts, thanks so much. The things you do with a such a small lathe is astounding. I enjoy the way you present and explain in detail every aspect of your work. Cheers from Australia mate.
Been a long time since I cut a single-point thread, so this was an excellent review. For depth, thread wires are good but a lot of people cut or buy the nut, then use it as a standard. Otherwise for a given thread depth D, the reading on the compound should be C = D/cos(A) where A is the offset on the compound, usually 30 deg for metric and non-Whitworth Imperial. The depth D is found in tables.
Joe Pie' did a good explanation why it's not a good idea to get into the habit of making a thread to match a nut, or other example thread; I forget which video though. One key reason for me is that burrs on the thread might affect the fit, and removing the burrs is difficult without disengaging the lead screw. The reading on the compound works as a heuristic, but is imprecise because it's hard to be sure what the radius of the cutting tool is, or how deep it penetrated the part when finding the zero point.
Something to mull over. Thanks.
Very informative and detail about setting the angle cutter. In traditional way, I did not turn 30 degree the angle tapper, so it's quite danger when I cannot stop the power. Thank you
You could flip the tool by 180 and thread in reverse (going away from the groove towards the tail - this way you don't worry about stopping the lathe on a dime; the relieve groove can be much narrower)
I do love threading away from the chuck, but I haven't been able to sort out a set up which works when I need to support the part with the tailstock. The large end of this arbor is quite thin, and the chuck jaws have a narrow hold, so the live centre was essential for keeping things rigid.
The problem with that is you need a left-hand tool as well as a special shim for the threading insert. The special shim corrects the helix angle. The shims are difficult to locate and are quite expensive. I had to replace the standard shim in my toolholder after a crash and I had to special order the replacement from MSC. Minimum purchase was a ten-pack.
Grinding a HSS tool should be feasible, though.
When I was a teenager I always tried to be stoned very lightly too 😂
Thank you very, it's the first time I learn how to make a thread
Good job with the video, and the arbor! I especially like the split view. Keep up the great work!
What a nice and detailed video!
Thank you so much for your time and help!
AWesome. I like the part about using the compound slide. Going to do it that way hereafter.
Great explanation of thread cutting on a small lathe. I’ve tried this on my PD400 and a problem I get is there is so much over run in the spindle once I switch the motor off, that the tool crashes into the non threaded end of the work piece… maybe I need to push the gears in the banjo closer together.
I guess the PD400 has that much more inertia that the sudden stop isn't practical.
A technique I've seen larger machine operators use is to pull the cross-slide back very sharply at the same time they stop the machine. It only works if pulling the tool back would give you enough clearance though.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I practiced your technique the other day and it works well. Thanks again.
Trying to learn how to use a leave this video was very helpful thank you 🙏🏻🙂
Another terrific video, Well done!!
Greatly appreciate your efforts in creating this video Alistair.
Count me in for seeing more on how you went about the nut too.
regards Colin
Thanks Colin! I'm planning to make another similar arbor, for different sized gear cutters, so I'll focus on capturing some good footage of that thread. The camera angles for this project don't quite show what I want.
Thanks for sharing...followed your steps and did a nice thread work. Before I only worked with straight advancing which works but it’s better to use the proper technique.
Some ask why the compound at 30deg?
Here are some benefits I’ve observed:
The tool blade will advance with the left side cutting the material only. This means the tool can cut easier and there will be less torque on the turning piece so less bending of the rod and better finish. The right side angle of the thread triangle will be given by the compound angle. Also the compound cannot be set at 0 degrees at least on some lathe models and it is easier to work with two sliders because one counts the advance and the other is used to retract the tool and position it back to zero so the only option is to set it at 0 or 90deg. With 90deg there are no benefits and you need to lock it with a screw otherwise the backlash will affect the thread.
You can align the tool post, by touching the edge of the threading insert against the face of the chuck body, or, if the job is of a large enough diameter, against the end of the workpiece, provide the end of the workpiece is flat.
I thought so but now you confirmed it. Thanks! Now I have to go buy this lathe and mill - hmmm where to get a price break!!
The reason of under- or overshooting thread cuts I used a carriage stop switch.
2:26 There is nothing like a late night at the club, followed by some lathework bright and early the next day!
Now I'm trying to work out where I might have been the previous night, way back in 2018. Don't think my memory is good enough.
It's often preferable to make the nut first, then thread the screw to fit the nut, checking frequently, using the nut as a gauge.
Nicely done and I would like to see the internal thread cutting. Cheers Peter
Thanks Peter! Already working on an internal threading video, so keep watching. :)
Very nice work. I found it nerve racking. He he.
Well. What to say. Great comprehensive video yet. Awesome job. Thanks
Very professional and very informative please
Well made video.
Would like to see internal threatening.
N.T.K its allready here ua-cam.com/video/la3otvkQ0u4/v-deo.html#t=17m . With even more "stop on the right spot"
@@richardmittmann1836 I thinking about a more detailed video, similar in style to this one, with all the detail. I may need to use a different example, as I don't have all the footage I'd like of the Gear Cutter Arbor nut.
Very instructive. Thank You
very cool video, was thinking about getting a lathe like this... the engineering bachelor at university definitely doesn't include enough practical stuff
Well done and good explained. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the awesome explanation, Clive Owen.
haha i thought it was charles dance
In imperial measurements, when compound feeding. .750/(threads per inch) gives the radial depth(root to tip) of the thread to cut to(stop .010 short if you have the nut or equivalent to fit to)final few.001 done on cross-slide. if your machine cuts on diameter( moving dial by .010 only moves cutter .005) then the formula is (.750/TPI)*2 if feeding in radially(cross-slide only use .650 in formula instead.
What beautiful angle measurement tool do you have there? I want it!
Yeah very useful video this, been looking for a lathe but haven't got the space for a **ford of old, which probably would be preferred
Hi folks. A trick to setting the gear spacing is to use a strip of paper between the teeth. BobUK
Nice idea! Thanks for the tip. I use a similar trick to touch off endmills, but didn't think about using the same for change gears.
Bonjour, quelle est votre opinion sur la qualité et la précision du tour à métaux Proxxon 250 ? Merci par avance pour votre réponse. Cordialement.
Hello, I hope you don't mind if I respond in English. My French is good enough to understand the question, but not really good enough to write the reply.
The quick answer is that I think both the build quality and the precision of the PD 250/e are very good for a lathe of this size. The only question for me is whether it is worth the extra cost, as it is a lot more expensive than many small lathes. I would recommend the Proxxon to anyone who wants a lathe that they can use straight away, and do not have the time and knowledge to do the repair work needed by a lot of very cheap lathes.
Might seem like a silly question (it's been more than 30 years since I used a lathe), but can you set an automatic stop on this Proxxon to stop the tool post crashing into the chuck? As I recall, back in the 1980s I could set a stop on a Colchester lathe that would disengage the screw when it reached the stop. Without it, I am sure I would have crashed the tool post a couple of times a week.
I feel scrapping chunk of metal across the carage would cause enough wear to eventually throw things off or am i just over thinking it?
The thing I used in this video wasn't a chunk of metal. It was a very fine abrasive stone, with a very flat face. The idea is that this stone will remove any raised points caused by burrs or impacts on the carriage, but not have any effect on the majority of the flat surface. If the machine is already clean then this step is not necessary.
Any abrasive used enough times will eventually wear the surface down, but a fine flat stone should cause so little wear that it will take a very long time before the impact causes problems.
I NEED AN HONEST OPINION ON THIS MACHINE, I AM ABOUT TO PURCHASE
The Proxxon PD 250/e is a very good, small, lightweight lathe, best suited to small light work. It is manufactured to a high standard, and mine has worked well for several years with only regular oil for maintenance. Cheaper Chinese lathes are somewhat heavier, and can deal with bigger work, but many seem to be made to a much lower standard, and require much more maintenance.
So are proxxon tools good? I hear terrible things about most mini lathes and mills.
Well done
haces unos videos estupendos.Gracias.Podrias hacer uno donde expliques donde se tienen que poner los engranajes para roscar?.Gracias.
The lathe is a beauty and you are the master of it - great video. Question: how do you register exactly on the same thread for each repeated cut? I would think it could be any issue, though I did not cut threads with my Smithy I had once. Hope to see your reply.
Thanks! When threading on the Proxxon, the feed mechanism is kept engaged throughout the process, which ensures the carriage feed position and the spindle rotation remain locked together, and guarantee that each pass is correctly registered.
Nice little lathe. Italian, I believe. Very good method-presentation. Cutting feed a bit too fast. Thanks.
German
Your square/protractor gubbins is fabulous. Where did you get it?
I like your Wera allen keys too. Are they colour coded for different sizes or something?
10:48 - ouch.
Have you ever run the late in reverse straight after a cut without winding the cutter away from the part? Just wondering if there’s much to worry about if you’ve already made the cut and removed material, then the tool should only be barely touching when put in reverse?! Not good technique to get in the habit of I bet but if you had to cut thread in a soft material like Aluminium then could you get away without damaging the tool or part? Also... would you say the Proxxon is a much better machine than the other Chinese lathe you’ve been using? Wanting to purchase one or the other soon and would love your feedback. Can tools and accessories for either be sourced easily, are prices for either similar and/or are they interchangeable? Lastly, Thanks for your time and effort to put these videos together mate.. appreciate it and really enjoy watching them. Cheers
Reversing the lathe without retracting the cutter rubs pretty badly, and is a really easy way to chip the insert. When it's cutting, the tool flexes under the cutting forces, then springs back at the end of the pass, so it will slightly inside the material on the return pass. This effect would be smaller with a software material, but still enough to mess up the finish.
The Proxxon is definitely built to a higher standard than my Chinese lathe, and I also think it's better built than any other 7" Chinese lathe I've had a look at. However the Proxxon is much lighter than the Chinese lathe, so a Chinese lathe re-built to the same standard would probably be capable of bigger, heavier work. The Proxxon is more than twice as expensive though, so you need to weigh up what you can afford, and what time and effort you are willing to put in to get a high quality machine.
Adventures with a Very Small Lathe- Thank you greatly.. I appreciate the feedback and your time. I’m enjoying your Chinese rebuild series. You’ve given me more confidence in being able to improve one to a reliable standard if I decide to head down that road. Keep up the great work mate! 👍🏽
looking to purchase a small lathes,m sure its worth the money for the proxxon rather than the cheapo chinese,good tutorial and a sub.
This question comes up in the comments here a lot, and it's not entirely simple to answer. The simplest way I would say it is this:
If you are certain that you need a small lathe, as you have limited space, the Proxxon is excellent quality and will give you long service and good results.
If you are looking for an introduction to the hobby, and might be considering a bigger machine in the long term, a cheapo chinese machine will be a good start, and you will learn pretty fast what the limitations are. You can then upgrade once you better understand what you need.
Great instructional video for this Lathe. I know it is basically a Chinese C1 lathe, but it looks like Proxxon has tweaked it a bit.
What do you mean,C1?
Can I machine stainless steel by this lathe ?
Yes, I've machined stainless a few times, though it's one of the more tricky materials. Be careful of work hardening, and make sure your tools are sharp.
have such a machine, little experience, which gear must I take to be able to cut such a thread, you have tip for me?
Same!
Nice video ..thanks from Azerbaijan
Very nice video 👍
Is there a good introductory book to get that would mention something like needing to stone and align the toolpost with an indicator? The initial learning curve is just overwhelming and there is only so much videos can do to get a total noob over that hump.
I honestly don't know of one that fits what you are asking for. I've read beginner books, but they don't include nearly this much detail. I skim and dig through workshop course books, and reference manuals, but I don't remember finding this kind of practical advice in those either. Much of what I know has been gleaned from 100s of hours of video. Keith Rucker is probably the best source of thoroughly explained machining methodology. I'll put this question to my subscribers.
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe It is interesting, I fear that the devil is in the details, and the details are often "institutional knowledge;" something you may not pick up unless you're working with an old hand in person. Or as you say watching 100's of hours of videos. But the flipside is that an air of mystery tends to keep wages higher for capable machinists...
Any good lathes that are bit bigger than Proxxon PD 250/e? I would like to be able to work up to 105mm diameter stock. Proxxon with 4-jaw chuck can handle only 80mm. And physically the limit is about 86mm. I just need something that can do turn pieces down 100mm. So 105-120mm capacity would be perfect. Length wise, 30-40cm should be fine.
The only lathe I've used that is bigger than the PD 250/e is a Colchester Triumph 2000, but that is a _lot_ bigger, and probably larger than you mean.
Proxxon do have the PD 400, which looks very similar, but large with a few more features. I've never tried one though, so I can't speak to how suitable it is for what you need.
I’ve been looking a mini lathes for various RC hobby uses and just stumbled upon the Proxxon tool line. Not sure if you’ve ever used the Chinese cheap lathes but I’m wondering how they compare to proxxon? Great video.
I get questions related to this quite a lot, and it's not easy to answer. I've never used a small Chinese lathe, and while I love my Proxxon I have to admit it has some flaws. Overall it's extremely well made, but it is very expensive compared to the Chinese machines. The Proxxon also has a very poor tailstock, which doesn't have any adjustment, so is always slightly out of alignment, and a little too light and flexible.
I think I would still recommend the Proxxon to anyone who knows they will only ever need to do light work, and are confident it will be large enough for their needs. For someone who wants to try out the hobby, a cheap Chinese lathe will probably be lower risk, and if they take to it, they can upgrade to something bigger without having wasted too much.
Adventures with a Very Small Lathe thank you!
Quando posso seguo i tuoi video.
Sempre interessanti, e ben fatti.
Una domanda ? Utilizzi un tornio PD 250, oppure un
PD 230 ?.
Io sono possessore di un
PD 230 già usato da altra persona..
Grazie per i video che ci mostri.
Ciao
My lathe is a PD 250/e.
I don't speak Italian, but I managed to work it out using Google Translate. Hopefully you can do something similar with my response.
how to get the left-hand thread with pd250? use the small gear between z1&z2 and L gear?
Yes. The extra idler gear reverses the direction of the feed.
Nice information
I never understood the business of ofsetting the topslide when screwing anything and I used to machine big stainless valve seat rings and lots of little stainless parts.
Rose White I did a few thread for hobby parts aluminum/steel and only used straight advance and they got ok. I watched this video and I think with the slider at 30deg only the left side of the insert cuts the thread. It’s probably less force on the tool and on a part which is good for unsupported parts and probably it cuts easier and it gets a better finish
Bravo
Dobbel image video, good idea.
Thanks, glad to hear that bit worked.
Would you still recommend to buy this lathe? In looking for a small first lathe, I found your youtube channel. If you can recommend this (or maybe anther, who knows) I'd be more confident for my purchase. THANK YOU and my compliments with your video's.
I would recommend it. The build quality is very high, and it arrived ready for immediate use. I've never had to do any maintenance work in around 4 years. Just keep it clean, and well lubricated.
However, I would add two warnings:
1. This lathe is small. If you want to do a lot of work on material over 20mm, the lathe is going to struggle, and probably suffer wear and tear. Make sure the work you have in mind fits a lathe this size.
2. It is a lot more expensive than easily avalable lathes. If you have a limited budget, and can follow all the videos on improving cheap chineses lathes, you can get a decent lathe for much less, but you will have done a lot of the work yourself.
Cool Beans!
I would like to buy a small lathe like this one or similar. I see on all the specs only tell the TPI capacity of the threads, but I live in Europe. Are all the lathes capable of both metric and imperial threads or I have to look specifically for metric thread lathes?
Most mini lathes are capable of both, but require a separate set of change gears for each type of thread. Check carefully which gear set the lathe comes with, and whether the alternative set is also available. A lathe which has a metric lead screw is likely to be more versatile when it comes to metric threads, so if you only need metric, try and look out for a lathe specifically for metric. Avoid lathes that have 2.5mm per turn scales on their controls. There's a good chance they are using 10tpi imperial threads, which means the dials are actually 2.54mm per turn, and the scales are inaccurate.
Pd150 can do this to?
I've never used the PD150 but I don't think it can. It looks as though it doesn't have a feed screw.
thanks :)
thanks for the video. I do not understand English very well. how many degrees the trolley is tilted for a metric thread. thank you.
60 degrees from the lathe axis
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the answer..👍😊
How get job.. At home. Use miling machine?.. Simple project use mini miling.or lathe.. I from malaysia..
I think this kind of job is only possible for very expert machinists with plenty of quality tools. I have to work a regular job in an office during the day, and only get to use my machine shop at the weekend.
hello what´s the price for one of this small lathes?
Please provide the address of the distributor who sells the Proxxon fd 150 lathe, in *Indonesia ???* .
Proxxon list a number of dealers in Indonesia:
www.proxxon.com/en/dealer/search-dealer-international.php?tld=id
@@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe , *Thank's* ...
12:05 Very short run out for cutting threads xD
Whats your tool in looking for degree in tool post?
It's a weird angle variable set square I bought on impulse from Ali Express. I've no idea what it's called I'm afraid. The listing was temporary, and had a generic title which looked like it was translated from Chinese. It has vernier scales with a high level of precision, but I have no way to check how well it is calibrated, so don't know whether to trust it. It's a bit un-wieldy and tricky to use. I'd much rather have a decent quality combination square, and I'd recommend a combination square to anyone looking for a tool to set their compound accurately.
I've found out a little more about this tool from this reddit post:
www.reddit.com/r/Machinists/comments/bd79vo/made_in_the_ussr_have_no_idea_what_its_called/?st=juhrc2dl&sh=fd9d3649
One name for it is a goniometer, and the design may originate from the USSR. It is intended to measure angles precisely in unconventional situations.
Chronos sell them for 30 quid. They are branded Dasqua and called a universal protractor.
i miss the "welcome to..." in the intro
That's something I can pretty easily fix. :)
Compair to a more heavy lathe (50 Kg and more) the cutting sound in steel material here is horrible. As a result of vibrations of this light wight machine.
А как кайфует-то пацан...
2024 silent movies cant talk ? thumbs down !