C.L.S.: Has a completely average American accent. Also C.L.S.: Is suddenly from Boston when saying "roof", but is only from Boston when saying "roof". As always, I learned quite a lot from this video. We are incredibly lucky to have you.
doing trusses on my 12x12 shed tomorrow after work! I'm so excited, lol. It is hard for me to get anyone to help... it's like, nobody wants to work or nobody has time. Your video has helped me out! Thanks!
Great video! Lots of good info. How I have always done it is to toe nail each truss into position on layout, as well as install your pressure blocking, and then install your hurricane clips afterwards or have someone coming behind on a ladder installing them while two guys are rolling trusses. I also pre install pressure blocking on the ridge of each truss prior to installation. This way when your next truss goes up, it just gets nailed into the pressure block that you pre installed and it eliminates the need for a rat run. These are just some tips that will help you with productivity. Love your videos! Just wanted to give my two cents. Keep up the good work
Thank you so much for starting a job like yours in this video, but I'm dealing with a bunch of valleys.. I saw a neat trick you showed me here in this video
It’s easier to take each truss one at a time upside down and carry them through your doorway. Then set the trusses still upside down on top of the walls,and then take a longboard and flip them up one at a time.
Great video, I would have thought you would've added blocking at the ridge of the truss... this would make sure they align and keep them steady as you lay them out at the same time. Looks good brother!
I've gone through about 30 videos and this guy is the only one that actually explains that top brace for the drywall(perfect)and how do actually attached the trusses to the walls. He did a great job you're right
I was wondering about the need for temporary and also permanent diagonal bracing, especially for a longer building?Anyway, nice clearly explained process.
Awesome video you answered my prayers, I have trusses being delivered for my 320 soft addition 10x32 and I'm excited to do exactly this. However, I noticed at the end of your gable truss you didn't notched the gable truss to get 2x4 to lay flat and come out another few inches...is that purely cosmetic and if so how would I do it? Is it really just notching the gable truss? Or is there a better way to do it without notching out the truss because doesn't that weaken the truss?
If your referring to overhangs- you can notch the last 2 trusses to extend overhang or build a small horizontal wall that bolts to the side of gable truss to make an overhang with a support at the center of peak overhang. This is hard to explain in a comment but I do plan on making a video about roof overhangs in the future.
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One thanks for the reply I appreciate it. I’m a DIY guy so I’m learning the lingo but an over hang is probably what I’m trying to say. Cali Codes are a MF’er lol. I’d love to see your wall framing techniques.
Do you have a video of the construction of the trusses you installed? I’m about to make some for my garage but some people say to cut a “birds mouth” but I think I’m going to go with the cut you used. Any info helps. Great video.
These are pre fabricated / engineered trusses that I ordered from menards. They can be ordered in various different sizes and will be engineered to the specifications of your local codes in your area.
I would be inclined to add a couple runs of diagonal bracing from each gable top plate up towards the ridge of one of the commons. Basically like a couple of hip rafters that run through a couple trusses. Dunno if its required, but it definitely feels like it should be there
I don't understand why they don't just make all trusses have the "raised heel" so you can get the full height of ceiling insulation around the perimeter.
I had this idea, tell me if it's silly, lol...but i was thinking of using trusses on my she-shed, and instead of that support on the outside, i could just stand each truss up and nailgun a block in between as i go, like, if the trusses are 24" OC, i'd cut a 22.5" 2x4 block and stick it in between. Since the 2x is really 1-1/2" thick, that would center it between trusses at 24" OC, right? The math might be wrong but i'll double check...
It's not 8-D nails, they are 10-D Galvanized 1-1/2" joist hanger nails and thay don't keep them in the nail and screw section, but with the joist hangers. Took me a second trip to find them!
How do you know the trusses are gone fit right? just measure? So if your building is 24 ft long that’s how long you make the truss’s? So if it’s 40 ft they make them 40 ft? Prob dumb question
Just for an example,if a roof is 20 feet wide, you will need a 20' wide truss. A 20' common truss total length is usually around 24' long. The main structure of the truss is 20' , but it has approximately a 2' overhang on each end that can be used or trimmed to desired length. For my roof I trimmed/cut my trusses down to around a 16" overhang. But you should always refer to the manufacturer specs because these measurements may vary. The trusses I purchased at Menards had very detailed measurements that let me know the exact dimensions. There is also different types of trusses available without overhangs as well. Trusses can also be custom made to your needs, but keep in mind anything custom will take longer to build and arrive.
You can mark whichever way you prefer, I just prefer to mark the center, because there's no way you can mistake the center line mark. When marking the edge sometimes it's easy to get mixed up if you marked it from the left or right side, in that case you can mark both sides or edges as well to eliminate that issue.
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One Marking centers, as you do, also requires you to pull the line down the side, which you did but which is much harder to see from above (where you're standing). So, it's not only an additional step with a speed square but it requires you to peer over to the side to see if you're lined up. And at that point the foreshortening effect and angle makes it quite inaccurate unless you have an additional person below just for that purpose (a waste of person-power). It's definitely the more "pro-tip" approach to learn how to do layout by pulling back 3/4 of an inch (presuming 1 1/2-inch lumber) and mark EDGES, which can be instantly and absolutely-accurately lined up from above. The "x" that Joe Johnson mentions in his comment below is instantaneous to add, and that "x" absolutely eliminates any possible placement confusion. And it's 100 times faster to add that "x" than to use a speed square to pull the line down onto the wall and then struggle to eyeball it from above or waste a person's time from below. This is NOT "preference," as you suggest. Your approach is simply not correct. You can "get by" using it, but, as I'll further explain, you are creating problems for yourself that will add up to untenable for anything but little projects like yours. Another problem with marking centers is revealed when you install the top braces. All of those "center" marks on the trusses were obviously eyeballed rather than measured. Again, if you mark EDGES on the center braces, there is no eyeballing and no time wasted creating those eyeballed center marks on the trusses. Why introduce extra steps, particularly when they are known to be inaccurate steps? When you mark layout for EDGES, you just match edge to line, and there isn't a shred of guesswork or inaccuracy. On small trusses like these, you can eyeball it as you do, and the sheathing will be "close enough." But for longer spans, your approach guarantees sheathing alignment struggles. A big upside to marking edges instead of centers is that you do this with your internal bracing as well, and this enables you to entirely skip a huge bracing step you took. If you are marking edges on your interior bracing (which will be permanent!), you can install your interior lumber AS the "braces" in one step. If you perform layout correctly on that lumber, you are then able to line up your truss edges instantly and correctly with no guesswork. This approach eliminates the need to use exterior bracing that you know must be removed. Again, your approach is "okay" for small, DIY projects. But for large projects and long spans, you are going to place numerous interior "braces," and you will need them to ALL line up EXACTLY on layout rather than to lock in errors that your exterior bracing approach introduced. The only sure way to accomplish this is to mark all of them on EDGE layout in advance, so that everywhere you install interior bracing you are also pulling each truss into plumb at that point in the span rather than having "wandering" trusses that you then have to try to correct by "pushing" as you are installing your sheathing. A major point is that your approach to lining up truss ends using a string is actually a significant mistake and one that you should NEVER teach others to make! You absolutely should NOT install trusses as you did, using a string to get your ends lined up! And your instruction to measure each truss's ends from the walls to "center" them reveals what a lame and incorrect approach it is that even produces the "need" to use a string in the first place! Here's why: Your approach PRESUMES that you can't trust the spans between your top plates (because walls are plumb but bowed in or out). But you SHOULD be able to trust those spans! If your walls are plumb and straight as they should be (and as you emphasized at the start), and you've braced them correctly before installing trusses (which you did NOT do, and which is the root of your mistake that you then passed on to others!), then your distance between top plates is KNOWN and is the same end-to-end on your walls (and can be verified before even getting the trusses on-site!). So, you should measure that known span and mark it on each truss (which should be exactly the same distance marked on each truss) before getting each truss up onto the plates, so that you have EDGE marks on each truss that match the EDGES of your top plates (inside or outside doesn't matter, as long as you pick one and use it consistently). At that point, you simple set the truss, line up just one line on one end of the truss with the chosen edge of the top plate, and you should then KNOW (you can always double-check if you like) that the other end of the truss will be lining up correctly with the edge of the opposite top plate. If it does not, then you have a top plate that somehow came out of alignment, and you MUST correct that problem instead of locking that problem into place with the truss!!! Your approach is a major mistake, because using your approach you cannot in-principle recognize and correct bowed walls that are plumb but do not have lined-up top plates. In other words, if your walls are known to be both plumb and straight along the top plates, and you've properly braced them to keep the top plates where they should be, then you can KNOW where your trusses should line up, and you won't need to play the string game to get the ends to line up. The ends will automatically line up, so your facia and soffits will be straight. By contrast, your approach PRESUMES that your top plates are not straight and not to be trusted (with walls slightly, or greatly, bowed in or out at the top), and you are then using the trusses to lock your walls into this incorrect configuration. Yeah, sure, your truss ends line up (because of your string game), but that's the least of your worries when you start installing soffit! In fact, if your approach produced straight soffits without you having to do custom cutting to compensate for your top-bowed walls, then you got LUCKY, and luck is not skill. And you WILL NOT be lucky with larger projects and longer spans! So, your approach is NOT "okay," and it's a mistake to instruct others to take this INCORRECT approach. The moral of the story is that people should learn to mark EDGES rather than centers when doing layout. For small, DIY projects like this, your approach will get you by. But for larger projects or greater spans, your approach WILL produce struggles. When you've finally gotten sick of fighting soffits and/or cabinet installs, door installs, or anything else that requires truly straight walls top-to-bottom and end-to-end, you'll learn to mark EDGES, you'll learn to pre-mark your truss spans and bracing lumber, and you'll thereby finally be getting truly straight and plumb walls top-to-bottom and end-to-end. Don't teach people to use trusses to lock in wall mistakes!
You are absolutely correct! Great info. All I will comment on is assuming that your truss tails will end up perfectly straight just because your walls are square, plumb, and true. There will always be some variation in lumber even if it’s only at absolute max 1/8 of an inch (a standard tolerance when it comes to framing) it can cause your trusses to become slightly out of alignment. I usually follow the walls like you mentioned with some sort of reference on the truss and then I sight down my tails after installation and if they are straight I’m good to go. If not (which a lot of the time is the case no matter how much work I put into getting my walls where I want them) I snap a line on the truss tails and I cut off however much is necessary ( usually no more than 3/16”) and then I know that I am laser straight.
C.L.S.: Has a completely average American accent.
Also C.L.S.: Is suddenly from Boston when saying "roof", but is only from Boston when saying "roof".
As always, I learned quite a lot from this video. We are incredibly lucky to have you.
doing trusses on my 12x12 shed tomorrow after work! I'm so excited, lol. It is hard for me to get anyone to help... it's like, nobody wants to work or nobody has time. Your video has helped me out! Thanks!
Great video! Lots of good info. How I have always done it is to toe nail each truss into position on layout, as well as install your pressure blocking, and then install your hurricane clips afterwards or have someone coming behind on a ladder installing them while two guys are rolling trusses. I also pre install pressure blocking on the ridge of each truss prior to installation. This way when your next truss goes up, it just gets nailed into the pressure block that you pre installed and it eliminates the need for a rat run. These are just some tips that will help you with productivity. Love your videos! Just wanted to give my two cents. Keep up the good work
Thank you so much for starting a job like yours in this video, but I'm dealing with a bunch of valleys..
I saw a neat trick you showed me here in this video
Very well explained and complete. You teach at a very pleasant pace and it's easy to understand you. Thanks freind! God bless you!
Thank you
It’s easier to take each truss one at a time upside down and carry them through your doorway. Then set the trusses still upside down on top of the walls,and then take a longboard and flip them up one at a time.
Very nice
Great video, I would have thought you would've added blocking at the ridge of the truss... this would make sure they align and keep them steady as you lay them out at the same time. Looks good brother!
Best truss video on UA-cam
Thank you sir for such excellent and informative content
I would watch this for a long time. Thank you.
Excellent explanation of what you are doing step by step.
Good video buddy, your a great framer, your framework is STRONG‼️I know because I am a carpenter, lookin forward to more of your videos
Dang man I just discovered your UA-cam channel, and it is gold! I can't stop watching it.
Awesome
Thank you. I am recovering from Dbs surgery. I am from eau Claire, Wisconsin
This is a great video! Loved your explinations and the step by step run through of what was happening
Thanks. That was a great how to vid without any fat on it.
Calm day for Wyoming! Good informative video!
Fantastic vid!! Just the info we were looking for on our little (big) house project
I've gone through about 30 videos and this guy is the only one that actually explains that top brace for the drywall(perfect)and how do actually attached the trusses to the walls. He did a great job you're right
Thanks for this video, I would have really messed up had I not learned that I needed a lip there above the top plate for the drywall!
Your welcome
I was wondering about the need for temporary and also permanent diagonal bracing, especially for a longer building?Anyway, nice clearly explained process.
Brilliant video this has helped me out thank you from the uk
Excellent information.
Great video.
Thank you for uploading this video.
I (fink) you guys did a great job ;) Thanks for the great info and clear instructions.
Awesome video. Gave me more of idea how to do this on a mobile home. 👍
Excellent! Just what I needed.
They don't look like regular two-by-fours are they actual 2in by 4in like Amish wood. What a great video I learned a ton
Thanks. Actual size 1.5" x 3.5"
Really nice video!!! Easy to follow!!!
Awesome video you answered my prayers, I have trusses being delivered for my 320 soft addition 10x32 and I'm excited to do exactly this. However, I noticed at the end of your gable truss you didn't notched the gable truss to get 2x4 to lay flat and come out another few inches...is that purely cosmetic and if so how would I do it? Is it really just notching the gable truss? Or is there a better way to do it without notching out the truss because doesn't that weaken the truss?
Also I live in Cali so the trusses are delivered with blocks (for blocking every 24inches) but your approach seems more sturdy at the end of the day..
If your referring to overhangs- you can notch the last 2 trusses to extend overhang or build a small horizontal wall that bolts to the side of gable truss to make an overhang with a support at the center of peak overhang. This is hard to explain in a comment but I do plan on making a video about roof overhangs in the future.
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One thanks for the reply I appreciate it. I’m a DIY guy so I’m learning the lingo but an over hang is probably what I’m trying to say. Cali Codes are a MF’er lol. I’d love to see your wall framing techniques.
@@fredsanford6658 that's why y'all moving to nevada🤣🤣🤣 im in a little town 40 min away from vegas... most people in my community are from cali.
Excellent educational video.
Do you have a video of the construction of the trusses you installed? I’m about to make some for my garage but some people say to cut a “birds mouth” but I think I’m going to go with the cut you used. Any info helps. Great video.
These are pre fabricated / engineered trusses that I ordered from menards. They can be ordered in various different sizes and will be engineered to the specifications of your local codes in your area.
Great tutorial. What about diagonal bracing? or is that going to come from tying in to the original roof?
I would be inclined to add a couple runs of diagonal bracing from each gable top plate up towards the ridge of one of the commons. Basically like a couple of hip rafters that run through a couple trusses. Dunno if its required, but it definitely feels like it should be there
Great video man, it's really awesome
Amazing write up and video thank you so much!!
Thank you for all you info!! Great video
Your welcome
Excellent video!
Hi can you please show how you tie the roof in to the home please im about to do something similar and i need an idea thank you
Thank you! Awesome vid.
I don't understand why they don't just make all trusses have the "raised heel" so you can get the full height of ceiling insulation around the perimeter.
Great DIY video 👌👌❤️
I have those same Menards trusses at a 26' span.
I had this idea, tell me if it's silly, lol...but i was thinking of using trusses on my she-shed, and instead of that support on the outside, i could just stand each truss up and nailgun a block in between as i go, like, if the trusses are 24" OC, i'd cut a 22.5" 2x4 block and stick it in between. Since the 2x is really 1-1/2" thick, that would center it between trusses at 24" OC, right? The math might be wrong but i'll double check...
Sure that can work, it might be a little bit slower between each truss, but it should still work the same in the end.
That is the way they do it in track homes for production they pre order blocks
Top quality video my man!
Thank you
Very helpful, thanks much!
Great video brother. Might want to invest in ear protection.
End gable truss does, technically, sit on a load bearing wall. But that load is a tiny fraction of the load on the perpendicular walls.
Very helpful. Many thanks.
Thanks for sharing, great info.
I'm hesitating between a top support plate like @6:56 or using HGA10 and LTP4 ties.
We put trusses in yesterday on a garage we're currently building, we did that shit with a rope
Sounds like some work.
Great and informative - thank you!
where and how did you order the trusses
Menards website
It's not 8-D nails, they are 10-D Galvanized 1-1/2" joist hanger nails and thay don't keep them in the nail and screw section, but with the joist hangers.
Took me a second trip to find them!
Very good video, 👏👏👏
Thanks for the great video
Gracias well explained
You rock dude.
How do you know the trusses are gone fit right? just measure? So if your building is 24 ft long that’s how long you make the truss’s? So if it’s 40 ft they make them 40 ft? Prob dumb question
Just for an example,if a roof is 20 feet wide, you will need a 20' wide truss. A 20' common truss total length is usually around 24' long. The main structure of the truss is 20' , but it has approximately a 2' overhang on each end that can be used or trimmed to desired length. For my roof I trimmed/cut my trusses down to around a 16" overhang. But you should always refer to the manufacturer specs because these measurements may vary. The trusses I purchased at Menards had very detailed measurements that let me know the exact dimensions. There is also different types of trusses available without overhangs as well. Trusses can also be custom made to your needs, but keep in mind anything custom will take longer to build and arrive.
Great job
THANK YOU
Nice job. Thanks.
Thank you
Much obliged
Great !
It's easier to use a 1x4 stringer ran inside the common rafter,
Why mark centers instead of edge?
You can mark whichever way you prefer, I just prefer to mark the center, because there's no way you can mistake the center line mark. When marking the edge sometimes it's easy to get mixed up if you marked it from the left or right side, in that case you can mark both sides or edges as well to eliminate that issue.
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One I like to put a x on the side of the mark where the stud is
@@D.I.Y._All-in-One Marking centers, as you do, also requires you to pull the line down the side, which you did but which is much harder to see from above (where you're standing). So, it's not only an additional step with a speed square but it requires you to peer over to the side to see if you're lined up. And at that point the foreshortening effect and angle makes it quite inaccurate unless you have an additional person below just for that purpose (a waste of person-power). It's definitely the more "pro-tip" approach to learn how to do layout by pulling back 3/4 of an inch (presuming 1 1/2-inch lumber) and mark EDGES, which can be instantly and absolutely-accurately lined up from above. The "x" that Joe Johnson mentions in his comment below is instantaneous to add, and that "x" absolutely eliminates any possible placement confusion. And it's 100 times faster to add that "x" than to use a speed square to pull the line down onto the wall and then struggle to eyeball it from above or waste a person's time from below.
This is NOT "preference," as you suggest. Your approach is simply not correct. You can "get by" using it, but, as I'll further explain, you are creating problems for yourself that will add up to untenable for anything but little projects like yours.
Another problem with marking centers is revealed when you install the top braces. All of those "center" marks on the trusses were obviously eyeballed rather than measured. Again, if you mark EDGES on the center braces, there is no eyeballing and no time wasted creating those eyeballed center marks on the trusses. Why introduce extra steps, particularly when they are known to be inaccurate steps? When you mark layout for EDGES, you just match edge to line, and there isn't a shred of guesswork or inaccuracy. On small trusses like these, you can eyeball it as you do, and the sheathing will be "close enough." But for longer spans, your approach guarantees sheathing alignment struggles.
A big upside to marking edges instead of centers is that you do this with your internal bracing as well, and this enables you to entirely skip a huge bracing step you took. If you are marking edges on your interior bracing (which will be permanent!), you can install your interior lumber AS the "braces" in one step. If you perform layout correctly on that lumber, you are then able to line up your truss edges instantly and correctly with no guesswork. This approach eliminates the need to use exterior bracing that you know must be removed. Again, your approach is "okay" for small, DIY projects. But for large projects and long spans, you are going to place numerous interior "braces," and you will need them to ALL line up EXACTLY on layout rather than to lock in errors that your exterior bracing approach introduced. The only sure way to accomplish this is to mark all of them on EDGE layout in advance, so that everywhere you install interior bracing you are also pulling each truss into plumb at that point in the span rather than having "wandering" trusses that you then have to try to correct by "pushing" as you are installing your sheathing.
A major point is that your approach to lining up truss ends using a string is actually a significant mistake and one that you should NEVER teach others to make! You absolutely should NOT install trusses as you did, using a string to get your ends lined up! And your instruction to measure each truss's ends from the walls to "center" them reveals what a lame and incorrect approach it is that even produces the "need" to use a string in the first place!
Here's why: Your approach PRESUMES that you can't trust the spans between your top plates (because walls are plumb but bowed in or out). But you SHOULD be able to trust those spans! If your walls are plumb and straight as they should be (and as you emphasized at the start), and you've braced them correctly before installing trusses (which you did NOT do, and which is the root of your mistake that you then passed on to others!), then your distance between top plates is KNOWN and is the same end-to-end on your walls (and can be verified before even getting the trusses on-site!). So, you should measure that known span and mark it on each truss (which should be exactly the same distance marked on each truss) before getting each truss up onto the plates, so that you have EDGE marks on each truss that match the EDGES of your top plates (inside or outside doesn't matter, as long as you pick one and use it consistently). At that point, you simple set the truss, line up just one line on one end of the truss with the chosen edge of the top plate, and you should then KNOW (you can always double-check if you like) that the other end of the truss will be lining up correctly with the edge of the opposite top plate. If it does not, then you have a top plate that somehow came out of alignment, and you MUST correct that problem instead of locking that problem into place with the truss!!!
Your approach is a major mistake, because using your approach you cannot in-principle recognize and correct bowed walls that are plumb but do not have lined-up top plates. In other words, if your walls are known to be both plumb and straight along the top plates, and you've properly braced them to keep the top plates where they should be, then you can KNOW where your trusses should line up, and you won't need to play the string game to get the ends to line up. The ends will automatically line up, so your facia and soffits will be straight. By contrast, your approach PRESUMES that your top plates are not straight and not to be trusted (with walls slightly, or greatly, bowed in or out at the top), and you are then using the trusses to lock your walls into this incorrect configuration. Yeah, sure, your truss ends line up (because of your string game), but that's the least of your worries when you start installing soffit! In fact, if your approach produced straight soffits without you having to do custom cutting to compensate for your top-bowed walls, then you got LUCKY, and luck is not skill. And you WILL NOT be lucky with larger projects and longer spans! So, your approach is NOT "okay," and it's a mistake to instruct others to take this INCORRECT approach.
The moral of the story is that people should learn to mark EDGES rather than centers when doing layout. For small, DIY projects like this, your approach will get you by. But for larger projects or greater spans, your approach WILL produce struggles. When you've finally gotten sick of fighting soffits and/or cabinet installs, door installs, or anything else that requires truly straight walls top-to-bottom and end-to-end, you'll learn to mark EDGES, you'll learn to pre-mark your truss spans and bracing lumber, and you'll thereby finally be getting truly straight and plumb walls top-to-bottom and end-to-end. Don't teach people to use trusses to lock in wall mistakes!
You are absolutely correct! Great info. All I will comment on is assuming that your truss tails will end up perfectly straight just because your walls are square, plumb, and true. There will always be some variation in lumber even if it’s only at absolute max 1/8 of an inch (a standard tolerance when it comes to framing) it can cause your trusses to become slightly out of alignment. I usually follow the walls like you mentioned with some sort of reference on the truss and then I sight down my tails after installation and if they are straight I’m good to go. If not (which a lot of the time is the case no matter how much work I put into getting my walls where I want them) I snap a line on the truss tails and I cut off however much is necessary ( usually no more than 3/16”) and then I know that I am laser straight.
why? is your window headers 2x4.
There are actually two 2x12's that make up the window header. It's also a 2x6 wall.
Like
You can hold 130 LB by yourself！
I’m sorry bro I’m just tryna move to a a aljpaha tribe
Great video, thanks!