Great info. Thanks. You might want to use your ashes at the end of the sugaring season to mix in with your soil for your greenhouse/gardening soil. Good for composting as well.
Funny, I did the exact same thing using a T post to stiffen my chimney pipe coming out of my homemade wood stove, worked well. You’re doing a great job with all the farm engineering, nice to see regular people making more out of what they have. Great content, keep up the excellent videos.
your setup has improved drastically since the little wood stove on 7 taps. enjoying your vids today. one more to watch. i was really shocked you were boiling in the greenhouse but it looks like you have taken care of the steam issues. whatever is sunk in the cooking heat is the highest i would run your sap. anything above it is losing heat out the side of the pan. with your swamp trees i would also do waders with a floating tank or not do them at all. that kayak looks way more trouble then its worth but it looks like you also have the time to do it all. possibly hook all those trees up with tubing to a shurflo 12v pump u can run off solar/car battery. its a little investment but they seem worth it and def increase the sap flow. enjoy and keep making these vids!
You can seal between your blocks with fiberglass sill sealer. It works really well, much better than mortar. No matter what you do with mortar, it will crack. My fire box is similar to yours but I have a barrel stove door on the front with a lower draft similar to yours but I have a small fan to feed more air. Nice job with your set up. I have a shorter chimney, 7 ft and I have a damper and sometimes I close it a little when the fire is really booming and still keep an excellent boil, thus making the fire more efficient. Also cinder blocks will degrade with fire directly on them and crack. I lined mine with cheap bricks from the lumber super store for 25 cents a brick. If they go bad, they are cheap to replace and you wouldn't need to replace any of your major structure.
Like the vidio, robin and the others are right i've rotted block with fire, pits and foundry. tin liner with ash as backer would give you insulation and heat reflection and protect your block investment and seal smoke leaks. salvage metal could be replaced every few seasons. a small draft blower would jump your heat greatly [hair dryer size or water heater exaust blower ] these have helped me be more productive on my projects, thanks for vidio
I preheat sap to 175° and put it in a 5 gallon beverage cooler with a valve and spigot attached and run a high temp tube to my evaporator. The valve can be adjusted to match the rate of evaporation.
Looks like the pan belongs to a steam table used for different things in a pro kitchen, but as a tool (double boiler) to keep items warm over an extended period of time. Ie. Buffet Serving Table. It was definitely modified. The Army/Navy might have these that are deep enough, 12+inches.
I'm sure you have been advised about using cinderblocks and fire. Moisture inside the block when heated produces steam and a rapid expulsion of the block can result. Check out vids on this. It's no joke. That being said I am not safety kinda guy. I'd hate for one of the blocks to blow and crush a knee cap or worse yet the family makers. Cool vid.
I have heard people say this yet after 4 years of building different cinder block evaporators and starting some pretty hot fires I have never had any issues. Cinder bocks are so porous I can’t get imagine them trapping any moisture
@@SSLFamilyDad It more so happens to the two cavity cinderblocks. If they are water logged then the fire is started, that's where the problem comes into play. You have a great set up. I'm in the city now. Tempted to do some covert night time collecting in the city parks. 🐱👤 Thanks for the reply.
Did the same thing, don't even mortar the block in, just the stove pipe is mortar in to hole in place, My pan was 36"X 48" and to heavy for my wife, cut it in half , should have left it one piece. Made rollers to slide it off when the syrup get just right. Cool video, now all I have to do is make a sugar shack . Where is your site to visit ?
Very cool set up - one thing i would suggest is to split your wood - you aren't getting maximum therms with whole pieces of wood. If you split the wood the fire will burn hotter and cleaner. Otherwise, very cool set up
Great info, but a lot of people don't need or don't want to spend all the money to get a tray like that. I personally use a couple of steamer tray pans that can be bought at restaurant supply warehouse or Amazon. Then you could just scale down the block burner. Hell I tapped 8 trees with 10 taps and finished with nearly 3 gallons of syrup last year.
I must have missed it. I was just thinking that you are lucky you got that tree given to you, they can be really expensive to have made. How do the cinder blocks hold up? I haven't tried them, but heard they break down quickly from the heat. I thought it was a good idea to fill them up with dirt, as it works as an added insulator and holds heat better and might help the blocks resist cracking by slowing how fast they heat up or cool down.
I just built my 10th stainless pan for maple syrup makers in 2 years on the side. Guys were always excited to get their custom pan. I was always like put that money in my hand. Haha. Figured I come see what the hoopla is about.
Just found your channel! We are totally doing maple syrup this next season. Great video, you gave me some goo ideals for building my own. Keep up the videos man! Subbed.
God bless you brother great video. Question, once you fill up the pan with sap, can you keep adding to it as it boils down or do you let the original filling boil down to syrup before starting another batch from scratch?
@@tenderplacebo thanks. It's just I've boiled sugar maple sap down over the stove in a pot for the past 2 years while continuously adding sap and I find it never tastes like the real deal. More sugary taste than maple. I boil it down to proper temp but still seems too watery and sugary. Must be a good reason for the separator pans vs. boiling down in one pot or pan?
I am what I call a micro producer of syrup. Like i'm talking 2 trees and five taps. Or should I say holes. I couldn't find any taps in this area. I got around this by drilling a 5/16 hole and putting 5/16 tub in it. It worked great for about 2 weeks and then the holes started shutting down and stopping. I drilled new holes and i'm in sap again. Any ideas out there. Do the taps keep the holes open. I'm just fooling around with this and it's no big deal to me if the sap stops right now.
New to this - How do you know when you're ready to finish it? Do you just keep track of how much you put in and then wait until you have 1/40th of the total left in the pan?
Thanks, but what I was wondering is at what point you take it from the outdoor boiler? I have a barrel boiler, and was planning to use that, and then finish it indoors on the stove. What's your advice on that? Thanks!@@SSLFamilyDad
Good video although I don't think it's necessary to boil sap inside (for small production). I just boiled down 30 gallons of sap with my modest setup outside in about 4 hours.
I just watched your seedling video and how you plan to sell them, you said you have no way to heat the green house, well I don't know but looks like you have the perfect thing there to heat it with already, just put a steel plate on top, an your off, you can make it better by putting a steel tank on top with a 2 inch vent/fill pipe, and put a 1 .. 1" pipe weld in fittings 10" off the bottom, an take a 1" pipe threaded at one end and capped off on the other end the length of your tank and drill 3/8" holes 4" a part down one side of the pipe, weld the pipe into the tank leaving the threaded end sticking out 3". hook up a cert pump 125$ CND to the lower pipe fitting and run 1" pex pipe with is very cheap in a loop around the whole in side of the green house, and back into the top pipe, and if you want to grow year round run 3 or 4 loops around the inside of the house, the heat that comes off that pipe is unreal, I have rolls 300" long in stock all the time
Lol, yeah that kind of grew a bit faster than I anticipated. I will be covering with cardboard and then wood chips or tilling all of it in and covering with wood chips
You need a cap for your chimney. Metal pipe chimneys won't vent optimally without one. I've been in the heating business for 18 years. Best of luck..............
Great setup.... How do you know when the syrup is ready ? I saw you add more sap as the pan was boiling ... how can you tell what is syrup and what is sap?... sorry but I'm a bit confused.... (I've never made syrup before) . :(
Basically I keep track of how much sap I add and try to get it boiled down as far as I can before taking it inside to finish. Basically if I add 100 gallons of sap I boil it down to about 5 gallons in this big pan then drain it off and take it inside. Then I boil it on the stove in a pot until I can test the sugar content and tell when it is syrup.
Sap is just really watered down syrup. It takes about 35-40 gallons of sap to make one gallon of finished syrup in a typical year, but that changes from year to year by what the sugar content is in the sap which is normally around 2.5% more or less and that depends on how rain/environment effects the trees. So when you cook it down and add more sap to the boiled down pot is just watering it down a bit with a weak sap solution. When you add new sap to a partially finished syrup over and over it will make your finished syrup darker, or so I am told by people that know more than I do. You know when you are done by either using a hydrometer or you can tell by what temperature the pot is boiling at, it will boil at temps above 212 f when the sugar gets more concentrated and should hit between 219 and 220 when finished. I don't deal with as much syrup as these guys, so I boil it down outside and then finish it off inside my house. Give it a try, you can go for a hike off trail and tap some trees(most types of maple will work... kind of) and make a couple ounces for fun. You can create a DIY tap system for next to no money, mine was less than $25 and I bought it all on line.
Thanks for this detailed answer Robert... Sure looks interesting and I wouldn't mind trying my hand at it next spring. We don't have maple trees growing in our area but next year I'm planning to be in the Montreal area where there are plenty of them. Once again... Thanks for your prompt response. I love your videos please keep making them.... :)
As long as you have a winter that has a hard freeze and then a spring with below freezing nights and above 40 days you can find a tree that can be tapped for syrup. Hopefully you find some good trees next year.
Sorry if this was asked/answered elsewhere and I missed it... how many gallons of sap did you collect and how many gallons of syrup did you produce/bottle this year?
I don't know what he got, but this might partially answer your question. Since sap is produced in nature, it can vary from tree to tree and year to year due to a number of variables. However, it typically comes out around 2.5% sugar content and takes around 35-40 gallons of sap to create a gallon of finished maple syrup. You can tap and make syrup from a number of different kinds of maple trees other than the Sugar Maple or even non maples like the different kinds of birch trees, though they take more sap as the sugar content of all are less than the Sugar Maple.
I know you don't care to solicit donations, though Patrion, but, what about PayPal. Why deprive people the ability to donate to the cause? It's disappointing to those who want to give. You don't have to "beg" or anything, just supply an avenue for people who find the link.
Or you could just type in a google search to buy stuff from their online store or at their farm. They also have links posted so that a small part of your Amazon purchases will go to them.
Great info. Thanks. You might want to use your ashes at the end of the sugaring season to mix in with your soil for your greenhouse/gardening soil. Good for composting as well.
The pan is great. The concept is simple enough. I was looking for a larger cinder block boiler, great description.
Funny, I did the exact same thing using a T post to stiffen my chimney pipe coming out of my homemade wood stove, worked well. You’re doing a great job with all the farm engineering, nice to see regular people making more out of what they have. Great content, keep up the excellent videos.
Bought a refractometer for my first boil and I love it. First boil I got 66.7 Brix. You are such a inspiration to me.
That is great, man does it make the best syrup when you get it right like that
your setup has improved drastically since the little wood stove on 7 taps. enjoying your vids today. one more to watch. i was really shocked you were boiling in the greenhouse but it looks like you have taken care of the steam issues. whatever is sunk in the cooking heat is the highest i would run your sap. anything above it is losing heat out the side of the pan. with your swamp trees i would also do waders with a floating tank or not do them at all. that kayak looks way more trouble then its worth but it looks like you also have the time to do it all. possibly hook all those trees up with tubing to a shurflo 12v pump u can run off solar/car battery. its a little investment but they seem worth it and def increase the sap flow. enjoy and keep making these vids!
You can seal between your blocks with fiberglass sill sealer. It works really well, much better than mortar. No matter what you do with mortar, it will crack. My fire box is similar to yours but I have a barrel stove door on the front with a lower draft similar to yours but I have a small fan to feed more air. Nice job with your set up. I have a shorter chimney, 7 ft and I have a damper and sometimes I close it a little when the fire is really booming and still keep an excellent boil, thus making the fire more efficient. Also cinder blocks will degrade with fire directly on them and crack. I lined mine with cheap bricks from the lumber super store for 25 cents a brick. If they go bad, they are cheap to replace and you wouldn't need to replace any of your major structure.
Like the vidio, robin and the others are right i've rotted block with fire, pits and foundry.
tin liner with ash as backer would give you insulation and heat reflection and protect your block investment and seal smoke leaks. salvage metal could be replaced every few seasons. a small draft blower would jump your heat greatly [hair dryer size or water heater exaust blower ] these have helped me be more productive on my projects, thanks for vidio
What a great setup! I love that it's in your greenhouse. Do you grow anything during the winter in there?
your horizontal pipe would make a great preheater for sap
Your very talented, this is still awesome, i love it. Is the green house sticky from the boiling
I preheat sap to 175° and put it in a 5 gallon beverage cooler with a valve and spigot attached and run a high temp tube to my evaporator. The valve can be adjusted to match the rate of evaporation.
Looks like the pan belongs to a steam table used for different things in a pro kitchen, but as a tool (double boiler) to keep items warm over an extended period of time. Ie. Buffet Serving Table. It was definitely modified. The Army/Navy might have these that are deep enough, 12+inches.
Keeping your rig dry all season long is key. No moisture build up within the cinder blocks means less cracking. Good video!
I'm sure you have been advised about using cinderblocks and fire. Moisture inside the block when heated produces steam and a rapid expulsion of the block can result. Check out vids on this. It's no joke. That being said I am not safety kinda guy. I'd hate for one of the blocks to blow and crush a knee cap or worse yet the family makers. Cool vid.
I have heard people say this yet after 4 years of building different cinder block evaporators and starting some pretty hot fires I have never had any issues. Cinder bocks are so porous I can’t get imagine them trapping any moisture
@@SSLFamilyDad It more so happens to the two cavity cinderblocks. If they are water logged then the fire is started, that's where the problem comes into play.
You have a great set up.
I'm in the city now. Tempted to do some covert night time collecting in the city parks. 🐱👤
Thanks for the reply.
Did the same thing, don't even mortar the block in, just the stove pipe is mortar in to hole in place, My pan was 36"X 48" and to heavy for my wife, cut it in half , should have left it one piece. Made rollers to slide it off when the syrup get just right. Cool video, now all I have to do is make a sugar shack . Where is your site to visit ?
Very cool set up - one thing i would suggest is to split your wood - you aren't getting maximum therms with whole pieces of wood. If you split the wood the fire will burn hotter and cleaner. Otherwise, very cool set up
Great info, but a lot of people don't need or don't want to spend all the money to get a tray like that. I personally use a couple of steamer tray pans that can be bought at restaurant supply warehouse or Amazon. Then you could just scale down the block burner. Hell I tapped 8 trees with 10 taps and finished with nearly 3 gallons of syrup last year.
Very good point, I believe I said that exact same thing at the end of the video:)
I must have missed it. I was just thinking that you are lucky you got that tree given to you, they can be really expensive to have made. How do the cinder blocks hold up? I haven't tried them, but heard they break down quickly from the heat. I thought it was a good idea to fill them up with dirt, as it works as an added insulator and holds heat better and might help the blocks resist cracking by slowing how fast they heat up or cool down.
SSL Family Farm Maple Syrup on some Banana pancakes is great!! Shipped quick and tastes amazing - perfect sugar content.
Glad you liked it!
Ya gota try the black walnut syrup...on waffles...with peanut butter...
Your Smoke pipe should be heavy gauge and have a Damper. Too much heat escaping with the smoke. Great setup.
Im back to watching your videos
I just built my 10th stainless pan for maple syrup makers in 2 years on the side. Guys were always excited to get their custom pan. I was always like put that money in my hand. Haha. Figured I come see what the hoopla is about.
Cool setup! Thank you for sharing!
Just found your channel! We are totally doing maple syrup this next season. Great video, you gave me some goo ideals for building my own. Keep up the videos man! Subbed.
Have you thought about setting up a preorder or waiting list for your syrup? Or do you think you will be selling more this year ? Missed the sale :(
I’m currently building my setup! The season is coming. Can you show us the pan off the fire? And what are the loops on the side for?
God bless you brother great video. Question, once you fill up the pan with sap, can you keep adding to it as it boils down or do you let the original filling boil down to syrup before starting another batch from scratch?
J.R. Wilkinson you can keep adding as needed. You can even set up a slow drip system, say a spigot at bottom of bucket and run hose to evaporator.
@@tenderplacebo thanks. It's just I've boiled sugar maple sap down over the stove in a pot for the past 2 years while continuously adding sap and I find it never tastes like the real deal. More sugary taste than maple. I boil it down to proper temp but still seems too watery and sugary. Must be a good reason for the separator pans vs. boiling down in one pot or pan?
J.R. Wilkinson one must take atmospheric pressure into consideration when dtermining finishing temp. Every day is different.
@@tritiumguy1 I've increased finishing temp by 1-2 degrees and it's perfect thanks.
I am what I call a micro producer of syrup. Like i'm talking 2 trees and five taps. Or should I say holes. I couldn't find any taps in this area. I got around this by drilling a 5/16 hole and putting 5/16 tub in it. It worked great for about 2 weeks and then the holes started shutting down and stopping. I drilled new holes and i'm in sap again. Any ideas out there. Do the taps keep the holes open. I'm just fooling around with this and it's no big deal to me if the sap stops right now.
New to this - How do you know when you're ready to finish it? Do you just keep track of how much you put in and then wait until you have 1/40th of the total left in the pan?
check out this video - ua-cam.com/video/k8yY8nAcWM0/v-deo.html
Thanks, but what I was wondering is at what point you take it from the outdoor boiler? I have a barrel boiler, and was planning to use that, and then finish it indoors on the stove. What's your advice on that? Thanks!@@SSLFamilyDad
Won't the heat destroy the blocks over time? You can get fire proof cement blocks.
Thanks
Good video although I don't think it's necessary to boil sap inside (for small production). I just boiled down 30 gallons of sap with my modest setup outside in about 4 hours.
if that horizontal run of pipe wasn't so long, it would definitely establish good draft a lot sooner when you first get the fire going.
I just watched your seedling video and how you plan to sell them, you said you have no way to heat the green house, well I don't know but looks like you have the perfect thing there to heat it with already, just put a steel plate on top, an your off, you can make it better by putting a steel tank on top with a 2 inch vent/fill pipe, and put a 1 .. 1" pipe weld in fittings 10" off the bottom, an take a 1" pipe threaded at one end and capped off on the other end the length of your tank and drill 3/8" holes 4" a part down one side of the pipe, weld the pipe into the tank leaving the threaded end sticking out 3". hook up a cert pump 125$ CND to the lower pipe fitting and run 1" pex pipe with is very cheap in a loop around the whole in side of the green house, and back into the top pipe, and if you want to grow year round run 3 or 4 loops around the inside of the house, the heat that comes off that pipe is unreal, I have rolls 300" long in stock all the time
Nice info thanks
That's a steamy green house. Question how do you plan on removing the grass come grow season?
Lol, yeah that kind of grew a bit faster than I anticipated. I will be covering with cardboard and then wood chips or tilling all of it in and covering with wood chips
Put a warming pan on the smoke stack
You need a cap for your chimney. Metal pipe chimneys won't vent optimally without one. I've been in the heating business for 18 years. Best of luck..............
Is there risk of burning the syrup if you let it actually boil?
It should boil hard but once the pan gets low or it nears syrup you need to remove the heat
Did you consider installing a damper in the smoke pipe? It would allow you to slow the heat from the fire all going up the pipe.
I could have but then I think I would get more smoke leaking out the cracks in the blocks. I may try that next year though and see how it works.
Great setup.... How do you know when the syrup is ready ? I saw you add more sap as the pan was boiling ... how can you tell what is syrup and what is sap?... sorry but I'm a bit confused.... (I've never made syrup before) . :(
Basically I keep track of how much sap I add and try to get it boiled down as far as I can before taking it inside to finish. Basically if I add 100 gallons of sap I boil it down to about 5 gallons in this big pan then drain it off and take it inside. Then I boil it on the stove in a pot until I can test the sugar content and tell when it is syrup.
Thanks for your quick and clear answer.... :)
Sap is just really watered down syrup. It takes about 35-40 gallons of sap to make one gallon of finished syrup in a typical year, but that changes from year to year by what the sugar content is in the sap which is normally around 2.5% more or less and that depends on how rain/environment effects the trees. So when you cook it down and add more sap to the boiled down pot is just watering it down a bit with a weak sap solution. When you add new sap to a partially finished syrup over and over it will make your finished syrup darker, or so I am told by people that know more than I do. You know when you are done by either using a hydrometer or you can tell by what temperature the pot is boiling at, it will boil at temps above 212 f when the sugar gets more concentrated and should hit between 219 and 220 when finished. I don't deal with as much syrup as these guys, so I boil it down outside and then finish it off inside my house. Give it a try, you can go for a hike off trail and tap some trees(most types of maple will work... kind of) and make a couple ounces for fun. You can create a DIY tap system for next to no money, mine was less than $25 and I bought it all on line.
Thanks for this detailed answer Robert... Sure looks interesting and I wouldn't mind trying my hand at it next spring. We don't have maple trees growing in our area but next year I'm planning to be in the Montreal area where there are plenty of them. Once again... Thanks for your prompt response. I love your videos please keep making them.... :)
As long as you have a winter that has a hard freeze and then a spring with below freezing nights and above 40 days you can find a tree that can be tapped for syrup. Hopefully you find some good trees next year.
Sorry if this was asked/answered elsewhere and I missed it... how many gallons of sap did you collect and how many gallons of syrup did you produce/bottle this year?
I don't know what he got, but this might partially answer your question. Since sap is produced in nature, it can vary from tree to tree and year to year due to a number of variables. However, it typically comes out around 2.5% sugar content and takes around 35-40 gallons of sap to create a gallon of finished maple syrup. You can tap and make syrup from a number of different kinds of maple trees other than the Sugar Maple or even non maples like the different kinds of birch trees, though they take more sap as the sugar content of all are less than the Sugar Maple.
I bet you could control that fire with dry ice
Thought this was a Cheech and Chong video at first
You're going to have a thin layer of sticky syrup on all the plastic walls
Cinder block isn't made to take that kind of heat. They will disintegrate. Maybe you could line your fire box with fire brick.
No need the blocks are filled with dirt and will handle all the heat you can throw at them, have been using for 2 years with no issues
@@SSLFamilyDad ok. Thanks. Thinking of rebuilding my unit. Good info.
Y
Hey! What happened with the hat? I understand!
I know you don't care to solicit donations, though Patrion, but, what about PayPal. Why deprive people the ability to donate to the cause? It's disappointing to those who want to give. You don't have to "beg" or anything, just supply an avenue for people who find the link.
Or you could just type in a google search to buy stuff from their online store or at their farm. They also have links posted so that a small part of your Amazon purchases will go to them.
Get some fire bricks. My 2 cents.
Pray for me people, I'm very sick and I need help from God.
Maybe your god is making you sick?
Praying for healing in God's perfect timing and will for you.