Another suggestion is if you know someone who is a metal fabricator, get them to make a new tank for you using the original tank dimensions, but get it made with stainless steel.
@@ZuzkaK6 mostly weight reasons. I wonder why the trucks carrying milk have stainless steel tanks on them to store the milk? The Mercedes cars have normal steel fuel tanks. Stainless steel would be a much better option.
@@ZuzkaK6 Would it? I'm no metallurgist or engineer, but it seems to me that aluminum has more of a tendency to bend and stay intact while stainless steel is stiffer and would be more likely to crack and leak. Obviously there are a lot of factors though. The thickness of the material, the specific alloys, how well its made, etc.
A terrific, user-friendly way to get rid of not only rust but varnish, or congealed ethanol stuck to the tank bottom (crusty orangey-brown color and also turns into fine powder like rust) is Metal Rescue. It's non-toxic, no fumes, and you add water (preferably distilled). It is speculated to be based on citric acid, and should still be flushed with clean water once used. You let the tank sit in it for either a few hours or even a day or two, depending on the severity of the rust. Then, rotate the tank for the mixture to contact the next surface once the first section is grey metal under the separated particles. It's a great way to avoid the hassle of dealing with phosphoric acid, and worse yet, muriatic acid. Use rtv and plugs to seal up the outlets and inlets. To address the fuel filler neck, I taped an empty clorox-wipes container to it (pre-filled with solution), and had the tank secured to a wooden stand, tilting up 45-degrees on the other end so the neck would be submerged. I used Miracle Paint only in the filler neck that doesn't have continuous contact with fuel, so minimal chance of it ever lifting off. If you can, use ethanol-free gas from now on and/or add Stabil to the tank.
For a stored vehicle, after I've acid dipped a tank and neutralized with soda, I fill the tank with nonethanol, add marine stabilizer, and 2 cycle engine oil. This has worked for me.
Back in the last century, we'd add alcohol to gasoline to combat "water in gas." Nowadays, gas comes with ethanol and will tolerate bit of water from condensation . . . until it refuses to tolerate more water. Then, the water settles to the bottom of tank and rust follows behind shortly thereafter.
It’s funny because I’m 24 and my rusty gas tank is most likely the culprit for my 190E 2.6 5 speed to not run. I pulled the tank and JEEZ. It’s rusty, the filter is clogged, the pressure valve snapped.
Hi Pierre, not related to this video, but have you ever replaced exhaust manifold heat flap bushings and pins? I have a 1969 w114 250 where the flap in each exhaust manifold has corroded solid in the open position. I have now removed the flaps, bushings, and pins and am waiting on replacement parts, but I am unsure how is the best way to press the replace the replacement bushes. Love your passion and videos and in particular those on tuning the Zenith carbs, which are on my car.
Rusty fuel tank produce to much vapor lock, although you change EVERYTHING! Vapor lock due Mercedes Benz rusty tank lead to intermittent “fuel starvation”; that’s why I recommended replace for a Plastic Polyethylene Street Fuel Cell with slosh foam and make the adaptation; it come with return line, vent valve and 90ohms lever sender; radical and definitely solution!!; ORRRR, BUY A NEW OEM MERCEDES BENZ TANK
Pierre hello good morning …I requested two years ago if you can please review and give your knowledgeable take on the 1989 Mercedes 190e 2.6 or just the regular line of 190e 2.6’s there is not clearly enough info on them because everyone’s talks about the cosworths mostly . Could you please do a review of true 190e 2.6 please
I’m currently dealing with a rusty W124 tank in a non running car I picked up. I pulled the tank for cleaning and substituted a temporary gas can to see if the engine runs. Unfortunately rust broke thru the in tank filter and killed one of the fuel pumps. I was able to get the other freed up and pumping enough gas to start the car. I cleaned everything beforehand up to including the injectors. After running I noticed fine rust collecting in the fuel distributor inlet filter and fuel injectors. The return line has also brought more debris back into the gas can. I’m not sure what to do next except take apart the fuel system and clean it again. Any suggestions?
A new gas tank from Mercedes for a w113 is like 2000€ . What do you suggest as a preventive maintenance to avoid rust in the tank ? Fill in with fuel or leave it half tank only ?
How difficult would it be to retrofit an aluminum tank from a later (R170, 171,172) to work in a R107 if sourcing a genuine, decent tank becomes an issue? Has anyone had experience with something like that? Thanks!
Another suggestion is if you know someone who is a metal fabricator, get them to make a new tank for you using the original tank dimensions, but get it made with stainless steel.
Or aluminum. I wonder why all the semi trucks (diesel) have big aluminum tanks on the side...
@@ZuzkaK6 mostly weight reasons. I wonder why the trucks carrying milk have stainless steel tanks on them to store the milk? The Mercedes cars have normal steel fuel tanks. Stainless steel would be a much better option.
@@christophermarshall5765 You're right. It would be better to have stainless say in case of an accident for one thing.
@@ZuzkaK6 Would it? I'm no metallurgist or engineer, but it seems to me that aluminum has more of a tendency to bend and stay intact while stainless steel is stiffer and would be more likely to crack and leak. Obviously there are a lot of factors though. The thickness of the material, the specific alloys, how well its made, etc.
Both are good options. Also cars generally dont explode in accidents. Movies aren't real
A terrific, user-friendly way to get rid of not only rust but varnish, or congealed ethanol stuck to the tank bottom (crusty orangey-brown color and also turns into fine powder like rust) is Metal Rescue. It's non-toxic, no fumes, and you add water (preferably distilled). It is speculated to be based on citric acid, and should still be flushed with clean water once used. You let the tank sit in it for either a few hours or even a day or two, depending on the severity of the rust. Then, rotate the tank for the mixture to contact the next surface once the first section is grey metal under the separated particles. It's a great way to avoid the hassle of dealing with phosphoric acid, and worse yet, muriatic acid. Use rtv and plugs to seal up the outlets and inlets. To address the fuel filler neck, I taped an empty clorox-wipes container to it (pre-filled with solution), and had the tank secured to a wooden stand, tilting up 45-degrees on the other end so the neck would be submerged. I used Miracle Paint only in the filler neck that doesn't have continuous contact with fuel, so minimal chance of it ever lifting off. If you can, use ethanol-free gas from now on and/or add Stabil to the tank.
For a stored vehicle, after I've acid dipped a tank and neutralized with soda, I fill the tank with nonethanol, add marine stabilizer, and 2 cycle engine oil. This has worked for me.
Back in the last century, we'd add alcohol to gasoline to combat "water in gas." Nowadays, gas comes with ethanol and will tolerate bit of water from condensation . . . until it refuses to tolerate more water. Then, the water settles to the bottom of tank and rust follows behind shortly thereafter.
My 76 911 has a rusty tank and I cleaned it out but I'm rethinking replacing it again.
Excellent video
Great advice, replace the tank if rusted
Another really informative video Pierre. I never really thought much about the tank, now I will.
It’s funny because I’m 24 and my rusty gas tank is most likely the culprit for my 190E 2.6 5 speed to not run. I pulled the tank and JEEZ. It’s rusty, the filter is clogged, the pressure valve snapped.
Doesn't using ethanol free gasoline help prevent tank rust?
Excellent advice, many people overlook this me included
Great video, never think of this
Great information
Always keep fuel tank fuel full to avoid air create rust in the tank
Hi Pierre, not related to this video, but have you ever replaced exhaust manifold heat flap bushings and pins? I have a 1969 w114 250 where the flap in each exhaust manifold has corroded solid in the open position. I have now removed the flaps, bushings, and pins and am waiting on replacement parts, but I am unsure how is the best way to press the replace the replacement bushes. Love your passion and videos and in particular those on tuning the Zenith carbs, which are on my car.
Rusty fuel tank produce to much vapor lock, although you change EVERYTHING! Vapor lock due Mercedes Benz rusty tank lead to intermittent “fuel starvation”; that’s why I recommended replace for a Plastic Polyethylene Street Fuel Cell with slosh foam and make the adaptation; it come with return line, vent valve and 90ohms lever sender; radical and definitely solution!!; ORRRR, BUY A NEW OEM MERCEDES BENZ TANK
Pierre hello good morning …I requested two years ago if you can please review and give your knowledgeable take on the 1989 Mercedes 190e 2.6 or just the regular line of 190e 2.6’s there is not clearly enough info on them because everyone’s talks about the cosworths mostly . Could you please do a review of true 190e 2.6 please
I know you covered the diesel 190 already .please man
I’m currently dealing with a rusty W124 tank in a non running car I picked up. I pulled the tank for cleaning and substituted a temporary gas can to see if the engine runs. Unfortunately rust broke thru the in tank filter and killed one of the fuel pumps. I was able to get the other freed up and pumping enough gas to start the car. I cleaned everything beforehand up to including the injectors. After running I noticed fine rust collecting in the fuel distributor inlet filter and fuel injectors. The return line has also brought more debris back into the gas can. I’m not sure what to do next except take apart the fuel system and clean it again. Any suggestions?
A new gas tank from Mercedes for a w113 is like 2000€ . What do you suggest as a preventive maintenance to avoid rust in the tank ? Fill in with fuel or leave it half tank only ?
How difficult would it be to retrofit an aluminum tank from a later (R170, 171,172) to work in a R107 if sourcing a genuine, decent tank becomes an issue? Has anyone had experience with something like that? Thanks!
Try to maintain a full tank of gas if the car will be stored for long periods of time, or completely drain it. Keep that condensation out!
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