The New Edelrid Ohm II!
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- Опубліковано 10 бер 2024
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The swivel is sometimes a huge deal. I can't count how many times I've hung it backwards
i'd love to see that swivel tested. it's sailing technology from swivel-blocks. i've always wondered why the swivel hadn't made it's way to climbing yet.
I want to see it tested, simply because I don’t like to rely on tensile forces alone.
Swivels are extremely common in SAR, mostly on pulleys
I work in rope access, we use swivels all the time, and yes there are rated ones that you can use
@@n0pe213 there is huge difference in SAR and recreational climbing tho.
Petzl makes the delightfully-named SWIVEL in 23kN and 36kN sizes. BD's is rated for 26. DMM has a variety, but the basic Axis has sizes rated for 36 and 50, and a mini rated for 26. (all ratings for maximum breaking strength; working load limit is less, obviously)
These are usually used for haul systems. I've also seen them mentioned for rescue, but I don't know what the safety factor for that would be.
As an electrician I love the name.
As a monk living in an ancient temple I also love the name
pretty much all of edelrids product names are from the electric world....even their new "pinch"
and ohm fits perfectly as it's whole purpose is to add resistance in the form of friction
Edelrid also have the jul and jul2 breaking devices. A play on the word joule presumably.
Then you're going to love Edelrid because everything they currently make has electricity related names.
As a 250 lb climber, This thing has been a lifesaver
I agree -- I use it when climbing with my wife who is >50lbs lighter than me.
There is something satisfying about that snap into place on the new version that sounds like trust your life to it manufacturing.
I really like the new update of this. Nice to just clip it in & your good to go. The marking on how the rope goes in is better.
Nice upgrades!
internally the carabiner to medal slide is convincingly wider and more pronounced so i was surprised to hear you say there wasn't much difference on the inside. How the rope is supported and travels makes a huge difference on overall rope life expectancy so having one thing help another is a big plus!
Nice! Looks great. :)
Show us the new Edelrid Pinch
That's a handy rope bite
i got it and i think that the newone is cathing more stongly (have bigger resistance).
It have a bit narrover and more sharp angle gap for rope.
❤this update seem to prevent the device from opening through wiggling against the rock or the quicklink
Jep, nice swivel. But now you can't change the dogbone by yourself when it gets old.😅
From the catalog. The second generation of our innovative and successful OHM is easier to use than ever thanks to a number of updates. The assisted-braking resistor for increasing the braking effect when climbing in rope teams with major weight differences has a swivel joint that improves the device’s freedom of movement. As a result, the clipping direction no longer matters when the device is clipped to the first bolt. The locking system prevents the device from opening accidentally and makes it far easier to insert the rope and remove the device when lowering.
• Far lower forces are exerted on the belayer
• Lowering a heavier person in a controlled manner is far easier
• Installed in the first bolt of the safety chain
• The device reduces the risk of a collision when falling on the first bolt
• Handling not restricted when lead climbing (no rope friction when paying out the rope) • “Makes the belayer 25 kg heavier”
• Minimum belayer weight: 40 kg
• For single ropes with a diameter of 8.9 - 11.0 mm
Never liked the OG ohm that much but this seems better. Don’t know how I feel about the locking not being a push button though
Petzl did this to me with the protraxion I use for work.... came out with the new one with a swivel, and a lock that's easier to use with gloves (I'm an entertainment rigger so this pretty huge for me) I just went and bought a micro swivel for that and deal with the slightly more annoying lock... now edelrid does this to me with the ohm?!?! I regularly climb with two people that are 70 and 100 pounds lighter than me, so I bought an ohm. It's not as big of a deal here as the protraxion imo, but not having to think about which hip and direction I put it on my harness would be nice. I also have a strong feeling that this will help with the feeling that you're being short roped a bit (even when your belayer is on top of their shit) that happens on higher clips.
Love mine. Better design overall.
Dammit. Just bought one a few short months ago, too!
cool
I've clipped it backwards so many times
I just got mine and it shows a rating of 23KN. Does that include the strength of the new swivel attachment? I use it to top rope with my wife (who is a lot lighter than me) and wondering how much downforce it can take. Could you please test? Thank you!
Ohm 1 is a much softer catch. I'm 90kg my 50kg belayers haven't yet managed a soft catch with lots of experimenting.
damnit i JUST bought an ohm. oh well.
Ohm 2 feeds better, lowers better, but catches so so much harder if you belay as if it was the original.
I would imagine the redesign also saves some weight, right?
I know that the OHM with the quick link feels super clunky and heavy.
Looks bigger to me, so probably heavier too
But is it still as shitty as the first Ohm to fall into? It's always such a hard fall unless you have a belayer who has the perfect timing which is rarely the case.
Since I discovered the Bauer/Zorro I never used an Ohm again.
Why dont sport climbs have a bolt at the base for a belayer anchor?
I know some do, because when I took a climbing class, their climb area had belay anchors at all the routes.
Sadly being nearly twice the size of my partner we need the ohm... but it locks up constantly when clipping. I wish they had an adjustable amount of strength. It catches way too easily
Try the Raed Zaed, it has 3 different settings and doesn't short rope the climber much.
I'm dumb, can someone explain what we use this for? Inb4 "rOcK cLiMbInG"
A device that makes it way safer for a belayer to lead belay a heavier climber. You clip this into the wall instead of the first draw.
to explain further, if the climber falls, his safety rope wedges into the Vee groove in the device, so it doesn't put as much force on the guy at the other end.
Does the play matter? Im rather concerned about accidentally opening it.
actually had this a couple of times already
Do you have an ETA for availability? I'll be getting one ASAP
We ordered ten of them today! Expect them to arrive later this week!
Depending on your location, they should also be restocked online and across stores by later this Spring :)
Didn't tell us what it does...
But what does it do lol.
Clip direction still matters, always make sure the back of the carabiner is positioned in the direction you're climbing, same rule as clipping quick draws, this is also explained in the manual.
The original manual states it should be hung so that the climber rope comes out the side hanging away from the rock. With the swivel it will get in that position.
That's a negligible "concern" (edit: with respect to quickdraws). Just don't back clip and the direction doesn't really matter. And actually, if the hole in the hangar is near horizontal, it's more important to have the spine in the hole.
@@chrisrutley1332 that kind of ignores how an Ohm works. Usually they're threaded on the ground. So "backclipping" would be hanging it backwards.
Unless you mean threading it backwards and if that's what you mean no, that's absolutely not a bigger deal than hanging the spine the wrong direction on the hanger. It would be super hard to feed slack through if it were threaded backwards and my guess would be in a fall it would flip upside down and not provide tension. If it were the only clip it would also mean the rope was on the non angled side, which may put too much pressure on the plate that swivels.
@@christophercraig3907 I was talking about the original commenter's claims regarding quickdraws. For the original Ohm, yes, it does matter which way you clip. Or rather, it matters which way the ohm is facing. The carabineer can be flipped.
Downgrade, you can’t change the webbing.
Break it! Please 🥺
I climb trees make some videos of rock climbing tools that can be hybrid to trees or cliffs
What would you suggest? I climb trees too but they've covered quite a bit of arbor-appropriate kit already
*please
@@CalebBohanon thats awesome looks Ike I need to go watch some old episodes then are they titled appropriately or do they just happen to cover some along the way