I really like that 2x8 mudsill creating a 2 inchs ledge on the exterior perimeter of the house. I would apply Zip liquid flashing to the top of that ledge and to the bottom edge of the Zip-R sheath right before install to secure a liquid and air tight junction at he bottom.
Really interested in more information about the sill plate details. Specifically how it is sealed to the foundation/stem walls, the tape used on the exterior, why there is overhang/offset, that sorta thing.
Fun episode. Every time I see Steve Baczek, I think of actor, Feedback Steve Schirripa, who played, Bobby Baccalieri on The Sopranos, and Detective Anthony Abetemarco on Blue Bloods.. 🤣👍
Loving the content guys. Are you snapping your Tension Control High Strength Bolts or is it a snug tight detail? The moment connection you showed at 12:38
SB. Why not size the foundation to the thickness of the Polyiso board so no overhang? I am just not used to seeing an overhang, looks like a mistake was made. I can only think the foundation crew will hate it trying to size their panel layout. thanks.
You could but it becomes a question of foundation biugger? or rooms smaller? either way it is a bit of a dimensional challenge. Plus rarely, is a foundation perfectly square
It looks like there was spray foam under the slab and up the concrete wall to be finished later but it got scrapped off? That yellow I see around the bottom of the basement wall?
Ummm, the issue I see is the over=engineered sheer that the standard sheathing would satisfy. That inch and a half poly-iso renders a bending moment in the nails, which no longer makes it a structural panel. Let in 1x4 diagonals all along the exterior walls in the long areas, use standard sheathing with appropriate nailing schedule, and wrap it with R-Max poli-iso........ask me how I know...(the stuff is amazing...)
There are probably a few things that could be done differently if the house was in a different location but it sounds like it’s not far from the ocean so I’m sure the engineer explored all the options and went with what was necessary.
Interesting look at framing and details, but "on a budget"? Nothing except the studs @ 24" o.c. looked budget friendly. We just have different definitions.
An extravagant budget is still a budget. The Department of Defense even has a budget for their multi billion dollar planes. So it’s not *technically* a lie to say this build is on a budget, even when ~90% of people can’t afford this “affordable home”.
Why wood frame the walkout part of the basement and not just continue the concrete up? Is it cost? Because wood can shrink is their any concern with the floor going out of level with one side on concrete and the other on wood?
The other thing is that one creates a hinge structurally in the wall when the material isn't continuous. A structural engineer pointed that out to me once.
@@timmmahhhh Ok. You are the second person that mentioned that an engineer pointed out issues with wood framing vs continuous material. At least that is how I understand your reply.
That is a good question and when I use to frame, I always framed those wall 1/8” higher and that worked pretty well to have everything level by the time it was dry.
How much give is there really in that subfloor framing, 3/4 Advantech tongue and groove and 3/4" hardwood? Suspect it is more psychological than anything else.
Steve, what is the point of that massacred 2x10 or 2x12 @19:20? there's nothing left and there's no way that won't eventually chip and crack after "multiple generations." Could you not have done something better there?
Also, you say that's a doorway, I don't want to be the guy that comes in in 25 years to replace the door/jamb and can't figure out why my nails are not driving in on the jamb in that corner - there's only a quarter inch of wood for them to grab.
Good vid, liked the explanation about floor padding, but really not a fan of painfully loud music in the middle. This is an information vid, not a rock concert. The music should never be louder than the speech.
They’re a nightmare for thermal loss through their conductivity. And changing window or door locations will metal framing is a real PITA, compared to wooden framing.
All the carpenters should be licensed, just like the plumbers. And electricians, all these Yahoo's out there. Working for these Companies in general contractors. Or just after a fast buck and not quality.
Is your audience a bunch of novices? I wonder if you have ever done a census on who watches your show. I assume a build show audience will know the actual size of studs.
No it isn't, it is a wide spectrum so I care to take a few moments to ensure everyone is spoken to - I have many followers that are accountants, airline pilots etc......that I have met
The personality shines through and keeps viewers coming back.
Thank you
I’m building a 48’ tall multigenerational passive icf house. The only way I am able to do a budget build is by building it myself.
I love this channel his energy is amazing!
I really like that 2x8 mudsill creating a 2 inchs ledge on the exterior perimeter of the house. I would apply Zip liquid flashing to the top of that ledge and to the bottom edge of the Zip-R sheath right before install to secure a liquid and air tight junction at he bottom.
Really interested in more information about the sill plate details. Specifically how it is sealed to the foundation/stem walls, the tape used on the exterior, why there is overhang/offset, that sorta thing.
I have some videos on the Buildshow Network
Steve you should be teaching at college…great videos and very informative. Thanks !!!
I did before, only got 24 hrs in my day
Fun episode. Every time I see Steve Baczek, I think of actor, Feedback
Steve Schirripa, who played, Bobby Baccalieri on The Sopranos, and Detective Anthony Abetemarco on Blue Bloods.. 🤣👍
Thank you lol
Loving the content guys. Are you snapping your Tension Control High Strength Bolts or is it a snug tight detail? The moment connection you showed at 12:38
I like the layout Steve
Just the Baczeks...
Never heard that before.....lol
SB. Why not size the foundation to the thickness of the Polyiso board so no overhang? I am just not used to seeing an overhang, looks like a mistake was made. I can only think the foundation crew will hate it trying to size their panel layout. thanks.
You could but it becomes a question of foundation biugger? or rooms smaller? either way it is a bit of a dimensional challenge. Plus rarely, is a foundation perfectly square
It looks like there was spray foam under the slab and up the concrete wall to be finished later but it got scrapped off? That yellow I see around the bottom of the basement wall?
If you do the Zip-R (whichever R value you go with) you skip the additional Poly Iso on the outside correct?
That stud pack on the left at 4:49 looks over an inch higher than the next bays stud pack.
Illusion - it isn't
I believe the camera was tilted for that take.
Ummm, the issue I see is the over=engineered sheer that the standard sheathing would satisfy. That inch and a half poly-iso renders a bending moment in the nails, which no longer makes it a structural panel.
Let in 1x4 diagonals all along the exterior walls in the long areas, use standard sheathing with appropriate nailing schedule, and wrap it with R-Max poli-iso........ask me how I know...(the stuff is amazing...)
No offense, but you don't quite understand shear if you think eliminating the polyiso solves the problem
There are probably a few things that could be done differently if the house was in a different location but it sounds like it’s not far from the ocean so I’m sure the engineer explored all the options and went with what was necessary.
Interesting look at framing and details, but "on a budget"? Nothing except the studs @ 24" o.c. looked budget friendly. We just have different definitions.
Baller on a budget 😁👌🏻
An extravagant budget is still a budget. The Department of Defense even has a budget for their multi billion dollar planes. So it’s not *technically* a lie to say this build is on a budget, even when ~90% of people can’t afford this “affordable home”.
I thought the exterior walls needed to be 16 inch per code but apparently not .
@@darrenlesueur4785 nope. 24" is more efficient on a couple levels: truss/rafter alignment and insulation values
Why wood frame the walkout part of the basement and not just continue the concrete up? Is it cost? Because wood can shrink is their any concern with the floor going out of level with one side on concrete and the other on wood?
The other thing is that one creates a hinge structurally in the wall when the material isn't continuous. A structural engineer pointed that out to me once.
@@timmmahhhh Ok. You are the second person that mentioned that an engineer pointed out issues with wood framing vs continuous material. At least that is how I understand your reply.
That is a good question and when I use to frame, I always framed those wall 1/8” higher and that worked pretty well to have everything level by the time it was dry.
How much give is there really in that subfloor framing, 3/4 Advantech tongue and groove and 3/4" hardwood? Suspect it is more psychological than anything else.
It isn't - it is a noticable difference
@2:18 by the bend in it i'd say it's a load bearing stud lol
Steve, what is the point of that massacred 2x10 or 2x12 @19:20? there's nothing left and there's no way that won't eventually chip and crack after "multiple generations." Could you not have done something better there?
Also, you say that's a doorway, I don't want to be the guy that comes in in 25 years to replace the door/jamb and can't figure out why my nails are not driving in on the jamb in that corner - there's only a quarter inch of wood for them to grab.
When you say “on a budget” one tends to think the budget is small. This seems like a huge budget house. Maybe I’m wrong.
You're wrong
editing mishap at 34:43 audio overlap of background music
Good vid, liked the explanation about floor padding, but really not a fan of painfully loud music in the middle. This is an information vid, not a rock concert. The music should never be louder than the speech.
I will let them know
I'm sold on steel studs for framing I would love to know a professionals take on wood vs steel studs pros and cons
Its harder to insulate steel studs properly
They’re a nightmare for thermal loss through their conductivity. And changing window or door locations will metal framing is a real PITA, compared to wooden framing.
I love the insulation I get from a block exterior on my shop. In 110 degrees arizona heat
All the carpenters should be licensed, just like the plumbers. And electricians, all these Yahoo's out there. Working for these Companies in general contractors. Or just after a fast buck and not quality.
Is your audience a bunch of novices? I wonder if you have ever done a census on who watches your show. I assume a build show audience will know the actual size of studs.
No it isn't, it is a wide spectrum so I care to take a few moments to ensure everyone is spoken to - I have many followers that are accountants, airline pilots etc......that I have met
multigenerational? what a nightmare
Budget.... buahahaha