Im glad but im also bummed. Speed climbing is interesting and goes by so fast its kind of fun to watch…and if none of the big boulder/lead names are doing it, then i probably wont watch it. 😆 I will wait for the highlight clips of new world records i guess LOL
Totally agree with Jakob, I feel that 3 separate events would be better, but lead and boulder combined is still a drastic improvement from all 3 disciplines.
Not only that but the combined scoring is way improved over the one used for the olympics, where a single extra attempt could make the difference between 1st and 2nd and double your final score. Still, it looks like this method gives more advantages to lead climbers but we'll have to wait until the likes of Narasaki competes in this format
I'm a swimmer (climb for fun). It annoys me they can't give medals for each climbing discipline. In swimming there's Events: 37 (men: 18; women: 18; mixed: 1) and a medal for each. They can EASILY give out another two medal. You could even do 4 medals, one for each discipline and 1 for the overall best
Maybe they should just use the change of hold/volume color to indicate the change of point value on the sport route. It would be more obvious for the climbers and spectators.
This is not very important information for both competitors and spectators. The competitor must somehow climb as high as he can. Because he doesn't know how high his opponent climbed. It won't help spectator in any way either. OK, from there the competitor will have 1/2/5 points for every hold and that's all. There is no use for this information for spectators. Anyway, someone has to tell him which hold the given competitor has to climb to be first. All he knows is that if the next competitor climbs as high as his predecessor, he will surely win(tie). It's like, for example, in the decathlon. The spectator himself has no idea what result the competitor must achieve in order to win. This is the problem of all combined sports disciplines.
Nice to see the respect between Adam and Jakob. More guest appearances please! It has a positive impact for the entire discipline and makes climbing one of the friendliest sports out there.
It will happen quite quickly, the rock climbing was very popular on debut and it will quickly become a more central feature as the sport develops. Important to remember that the competitive organisation of climbing has only existed for a few decades whilst swimming has several centuries behind it if not far far longer.
In the long run it would be nice for there to be an individual medal for, Speed, Boulder and Lead plus additional medals for a combined Lead/Boulder and some form of teams event. There are endless possibility with climbing.
Initially I wasn't sure on this scoring format, but seeing it in action I like it. My thought was to have a more linear format, but this worked for me. It exponentially rewards doing well on the wall, topping boulders and getting high on the lead route. In contrast, the Tokyo format exponentially rewarded beating other competitors even if the margin between competitors was extremely small. This is a great system, definitely better than my linear idea (one point per hold, more points for a zone, full points off for attempts, something like that).
Definitely better but not sure if it is the best system. I think that at least boulders should be scored differently. More precisely, attempts should be more valued. The penalty for each attempt is only 0.1 point. There is a big difference in performance if I climb every boulder on the first attempt(flash) or on the third attempt. However, in the points evaluation, the difference between these two performances is very small (only 0.8 points. 4x0.2). To balance this difference, I need to climb one 1 point hold higher. This is almost nothing in lead climbing. I think that it will still depend a lot on route-setters regardless of the scoring system.
I love the little plants you got along with the medals! A medal is such a cool reward, but having a little life that grows with you years and years after the event is such an amazing reward
Why not just see lead, boulder and speed as 3 separate parts? Then everyone can participate in all parts if they want, compare it with, for example, swimming (a lot of parts in which everyone can participate).So 3 gold medals to win!
I think the idea is that the medals are gradually introduced. Adding 6 gold medals straight away is quite a big jump for a sport that is not widely watched. Tokyo and Paris are kind of guinea pigs to see if climbing works as an Olympic sport for them to give medals for separate events, maybe in 2028.
The goal is to keep the same ranking in bouldering that before : one top more and you win, then it's zone, and then it's attempt. With these score, it work great. The only difference is that before it was attempts to top and then attempts to zone, and now there is no difference between those.
@@miguelgazquez5717 I agree, maybe they should have weighted differently each attempt to each zone 1/2/top, something like -1, -0.5, -0.3, don't know, something... Just to enhance the separation on attempt and make the flash very valuable. Anyway, I like the idea of this scoring system, not bad!
I still think the disciplines should be entirely separate, the strengths required are completely different. Failure on the part of the Olympic committee that lets the sport down. Why include it if they do not give the sport full expression?
I love with how much joy they impersonate role models and how nice they cheer each other up. Not a lot of sports where this sportsmanship is as big as in climbing!
I have some feedback for you guys. You have to work on your thumbnail. Like with this one you have to put a bigger picture of adam on the front. I love these videos and watch every one but right now im only here because i saw the new insta post. I didnt realize there was a new video at my subscriptions because there are just too many and I overlooked it because it didnt grab my attention. Keep up the great work and effort here on youtube!!
I like the format, but I think some changes are needed for the scoring. In particular -0.1 per attempt in the bouldering should be increased. As it is, there is almost no benefit to flashing a boulder compared to completing it in 5 attempts - particularly important if most of the boulders are easy and you expect many tops. Increasing it to -1 might help to give greater variance in the scores after bouldering (in the European Championships the top four climbers were only separated by 0.2 points after bouldering). Similarly for getting a ‘+’ in the lead - only 0.1 points is too small, maybe it should be half of the points of the next hold.
It's not supposed to be a meaningful difference. It's supposed to be an approximation to "how many tops" with a tie-break of "how many attempts". That's the traditional boulder scoring system. And for that purpose -0.1 might as well be -0.01. They chose -0.1 so that it's small enough to never matter but simple enough that the electronic scoreboards can easily display it.
@@ipudisciple If it's just a boulder event then I agree. But in a combined event the boulder score should always be considered in comparison to the lead score. If climber number 1 flashes a boulder, and climber number 2 takes three attempts to top a boulder but climbs one hold higher in the lead, then should we judge climber number 2 as performing better? Maybe, but it's something to be discussed, and I don't think the current system correctly balances the scoring of boulder and lead
I think the system was quite lucky in the European championships that the best lead climbers (Adam and Jakob) also got very high scores in the boulder. It would be interesting to see in an international event how it works, especially with the Japanese climbers who have more specialist boulderers. Then the balance between boulder and lead will be more important
I feel bad for Alberto as he was not even considered in the competition between these two although he did beat them in the last olympics. should have included his performance to show how dropping speed changes everything in favor of adam and jacob.
No matter what Adam Ondra does he always exemplifies one things - positivity within his good spirit - and thats all you can ask for out of a competitor and person such as himself
Just out of interest does this mean that if a competitor skips a hold that but still tops out the would score less points than someone who topped but used all of the holds?
I love how they help each other and share opinions while figuring out the route. Imagine football players competiting against each other doing something like that.
This new scoring system is orders of magnitude better than the bullshit that they had at the olympics. I don't see why swimming gets 37 different events but rock climbing had to fight so hard to get 2.
Wtf IOC have in there mind ? Why they don't want just give 3 medals ? and keep the format of IFSC comps. I don't like way they want to change rules of incoming sports and the influence they have on them. They think they are on a pedestal.
Really don't understand why they can't have three seperate events and medals? They give medals away like candy for athletics and swimming (and appropriatley so), how is this any different?
The comment about wanting three medals - perhaps, but I'd rather have it be boulder, lead, and combined. Just drop speed. So few people care about it compared to the other two, it's like the package deal where you get a "free subscription to Bathroom Cleaning Magazine" with your subscription to what you actually want.
Competitori for medals may kill climbing, the competition is with ourself, not against the other climber, this gives a weird moral to the pure spirit of climbing.
I'm a little confused about the point system in bouldering, maybe someone can clarify ; if you were to get to the 2nd zone on your first try you'd have 6 points, but if you give the boulder another try and don't top it you'd go to 5.9 points ? fells kinda strange to lose points you earned, wouldn't it be a strat to just get to the 2nd zone first try and not try to top if you feel like you won't manage sometime ?
at 6:35 they should have lowered the 2nd place where adam was because he is so tall it made it look like the podium went from 1st to 2nd to 3rd instead of 213
It is nice in some ways, the drawback is that climbers who are really strong boulderers or lead climbers have to train in multiple disciplines rather than focusing on what they're best at which causes them to be a bit worse in their preferred area. Most boulderers also climb lead so it's not a big issue combining those two, but speed is like an entirely different event, it's like if triathlons were running, cycling and shotput, one of them just doesn't fit with the others.
@@jeksewnoleeray1020 combined event of speed, bouldering, and lead is akin to having combined timing for 100m sprint, 400m dash, and full marathon. Nonetheless I do enjoy watching climbers that wasn't specialist in their event doing something outside their comfort zone. Some fail some succeed, but that's what makes them climbers.
Really great how you explain the system to people who are not that involved in it. Super clear when you say that. And of course congrats to the medal set from Munich. You’re 🔝
But there are climbers who are able to top boulder with the last try, if your attempts goes into it and it doesnt score, that sucks alot. And if they are scoring it by points now on lead then why is there a timer.
Also. What do you think about two athletes climbing at the same time? I hated watching this (must be even worse when watching at the venue without split screen and the ability to pause and go back) but also, they athletes will see each other's beta... ?
Parádní práce čekal sem kdy bude video z Munichu , škoda že ve videu není zahrnuto bubnování 😁 takový momentky jsou skvělý Kluci strašně rád bych viděl njeakej ten kolab s Jirkou Procházkou a Adamem , třeba jeden den si prohodid trenál
What I expect to see is people cutting their bouldering effort short if they get intermediate points on the first attempt and don't top in the next few attempts.
It's actually the other way around. (It happened in one of the women's bouldering rounds, I think). In the old format, if the athlete has the zone but know they have no chance to top, they leave to save the skin and energy. Now if they have one zone, they will still climb again even if they know they cannot top (for time, skin or simply strength reason) because they can still get the second zone a create more separation.
@@krissroxxy I'm talking about ending the effort between second zone and top in order to avoid the penalty, since the scoring doesn't sort by number of tops. Historically problems have been set with the upper section being the least-achievable (for whatever reason), so spending .5 or .8 on a problem you don't think you can get the 25 is much less attractive than racking up attempts to get another top. Probably won't happen that often but it'll definitely be a topic of discussion when it does.
Lead's scoring is not really fair... if someone falls just before a change in points per hold, it won't reflect his/her efforts proportionally. Just my feeling fwiw ^^
As a viewer, it'd be better if the early lead holds were worth something, because otherwise, they feel "point-less," so to speak. It's like it's saying to the viewer: the real climbing hasn't started yet. Could also obviously lead to problems of separation, if two climbers were tied in bouldering, and fell at different spots on the lead wall.
The early holds on the lead wall are not supposed to be testing. At that level, they don't (usually) fall from there. The early holds are a test of how efficiently you can climb them. As such, the effect is felt later on, when the pump sets in earlier or later.
@@ipudisciple People do slip though. If you slip on hold 2 vs hold 20 there's a difference in performance. Not that either of those people are medaling (hopefully)
@@ipudisciple See Innsbruck, 2022, women's finals, and watch person after person fall early. See Adam Ondra, falling early in Innsbruck in 2021. In most finals, at least one person falls early.
I certainly agree with Jakob on separating the medals, and additionally,, STRONGLY SUGGEST that speed climbing should be updated to use of an extension ladder, with speed climbers required to carry buckets of soapy water and squeegees, with stopping points at which they are required to wash windows. Because climbing is normally creative/problem solving, of course scoring of speed climbing will include negative marks for number of streaks left on the windows.
Good improvement on format, but why is bouldering you get 3 points, 6 points, or 25 points?? That is so dumb. It should be like 5-15-25 or something since the hardest part of boulder problems arent always the finish, plus the difference between being able to do the last move on a problem and only getting to the 2nd zone should have a different point valuation (kind of like the lead climb portion). I don't think it would be healthy to restrict the boulder point value based on hold-by-hold points, but I think 3-6-25 is very poor form and whoever thought that was the solution should not be in the position they are in
6 was chosen very intentionally, so that tops are always more important than zones (the way bouldering has always been scored). 1 top 0 zones = 25 points, 0 tops 4 zones = 24 points. Whether you agree that tops should always take priority is a different question, but mathematically that's why they chose the numbers they did.
This has to be the worst scoring system I have ever seen. Its overly complicated, weights lead heavily over boulder, the 0.1 deduction for attempts on boulder seems irrelevant, just make a full point deduction if you are going to deduct anything. Just make a zone for each boulder 5 pts, additional 5pts for top and each move on lead 1 point each. Something like this.
the system worked great. i think it‘s also really fair. points in lead do have to be somewhat more distributed to the top otherwise 1 boulder would count for a quarter of the lead route. the 0.1 also make a lot more sense than the + they used to have
The goal of the format is that you max at 100 points per discipline if you flash all boulders and top the lead route which balances them out. Tops should have a much higher impact than making a zone. It still has top > zone > attempts, but if someone goes top on 10 attempts, they still topped it in the end. The math is much more fair here
@@giacomocasanova2893 the way this system works makes the attempts you take on the boulder irrelevant. Jakob couldve taken literally 50 more attempts and still beat adam with reaching 1 higher lead hold. As he did
Dropping speed climbing was an enormous improvement to the format.
Is speed climbing out of the Olympics now?
@@crimping1 Yes, that’s my understanding.
@@crimping1 No, climbing has two medal sets now, so one for speed and one for this combined format
@@Victor-ji1rz no, the answer to the question "is speed climbing out of the olympics" is "no"
Im glad but im also bummed. Speed climbing is interesting and goes by so fast its kind of fun to watch…and if none of the big boulder/lead names are doing it, then i probably wont watch it. 😆 I will wait for the highlight clips of new world records i guess LOL
Totally agree with Jakob, I feel that 3 separate events would be better, but lead and boulder combined is still a drastic improvement from all 3 disciplines.
Not only that but the combined scoring is way improved over the one used for the olympics, where a single extra attempt could make the difference between 1st and 2nd and double your final score. Still, it looks like this method gives more advantages to lead climbers but we'll have to wait until the likes of Narasaki competes in this format
I'm a swimmer (climb for fun). It annoys me they can't give medals for each climbing discipline. In swimming there's Events: 37 (men: 18; women: 18; mixed: 1) and a medal for each. They can EASILY give out another two medal. You could even do 4 medals, one for each discipline and 1 for the overall best
Maybe they should just use the change of hold/volume color to indicate the change of point value on the sport route. It would be more obvious for the climbers and spectators.
Thought exactly the same!
But then setting gets more limited. You don't always have everyhold in every color available.
This is not very important information for both competitors and spectators.
The competitor must somehow climb as high as he can. Because he doesn't know how high his opponent climbed.
It won't help spectator in any way either. OK, from there the competitor will have 1/2/5 points for every hold and that's all. There is no use for this information for spectators. Anyway, someone has to tell him which hold the given competitor has to climb to be first. All he knows is that if the next competitor climbs as high as his predecessor, he will surely win(tie).
It's like, for example, in the decathlon. The spectator himself has no idea what result the competitor must achieve in order to win.
This is the problem of all combined sports disciplines.
@@doofkopf2579 I'm sure the Olympics could afford to custom order holds of specific colors.
Why not just paint the whole section of the wall in the colour. Like whit no point, blue 1 point, yellow 2 points and red wall 5 points
Great job! Love the sportsmanship between Adam and Jakob!
1:17 The boulders were pretty easy he says as he matches the foot to the hand at shoulder height 🤣
Hahaha was looking for this comment 😭😭
Adam has already ascended, he's no longer bound by his mortal flesh like the rest of us
Only to see this move hurts.
Nice to see the respect between Adam and Jakob. More guest appearances please! It has a positive impact for the entire discipline and makes climbing one of the friendliest sports out there.
Just separate the disciplines... There were 37 medals for swimming in the Tokyo olympics. Surely they can cough up a couple more for climbing.
It will happen quite quickly, the rock climbing was very popular on debut and it will quickly become a more central feature as the sport develops.
Important to remember that the competitive organisation of climbing has only existed for a few decades whilst swimming has several centuries behind it if not far far longer.
Yes. And that is while in a town with 1,000,000 people there are roughly 9 that do ambitious swimming, and 100 that climb 8a. Absolutely pathetic.
@@kleiber1729 it’s not tokyos choice, it is decided by the IOC which is a bunch of crusty old fucks who still think croquet is exercise lol.
Cool breakdown of the climbs and competition style. Rooting for you at the next one!
I still don't get it. Swimming has like a gazillion different medals in the olympics, why can't they have 3 for climbing?
In the long run it would be nice for there to be an individual medal for, Speed, Boulder and Lead plus additional medals for a combined Lead/Boulder and some form of teams event. There are endless possibility with climbing.
But not endless profitability unfortunately
@@andresv.8880 it's growing quickly tho
Mixed Male & Female multi-pitch route.
Mixed male & female lead through multi-pitch route.
Initially I wasn't sure on this scoring format, but seeing it in action I like it. My thought was to have a more linear format, but this worked for me. It exponentially rewards doing well on the wall, topping boulders and getting high on the lead route. In contrast, the Tokyo format exponentially rewarded beating other competitors even if the margin between competitors was extremely small. This is a great system, definitely better than my linear idea (one point per hold, more points for a zone, full points off for attempts, something like that).
Definitely better but not sure if it is the best system. I think that at least boulders should be scored differently. More precisely, attempts should be more valued. The penalty for each attempt is only 0.1 point. There is a big difference in performance if I climb every boulder on the first attempt(flash) or on the third attempt. However, in the points evaluation, the difference between these two performances is very small (only 0.8 points. 4x0.2). To balance this difference, I need to climb one 1 point hold higher. This is almost nothing in lead climbing. I think that it will still depend a lot on route-setters regardless of the scoring system.
I love the little plants you got along with the medals! A medal is such a cool reward, but having a little life that grows with you years and years after the event is such an amazing reward
Why not just see lead, boulder and speed as 3 separate parts?
Then everyone can participate in all parts if they want, compare it with, for example, swimming (a lot of parts in which everyone can participate).So 3 gold medals to win!
I think the idea is that the medals are gradually introduced. Adding 6 gold medals straight away is quite a big jump for a sport that is not widely watched. Tokyo and Paris are kind of guinea pigs to see if climbing works as an Olympic sport for them to give medals for separate events, maybe in 2028.
How good is Adam Ondra at explaining rules?!
Right? When I watched in on tv and they tried to explain, I thought this was more complicated than integral calculus.
I like this format. It seems fair.
I really wanna know who is the inventor of the points system. 3-6-25 -0.1. ok
And the lead one is pure evil mastermind
The goal is to keep the same ranking in bouldering that before : one top more and you win, then it's zone, and then it's attempt. With these score, it work great. The only difference is that before it was attempts to top and then attempts to zone, and now there is no difference between those.
@@miguelgazquez5717 4 second zone which will be 24 points which is still less than 1 top. Sounds right
@@miguelgazquez5717 I agree, maybe they should have weighted differently each attempt to each zone 1/2/top, something like -1, -0.5, -0.3, don't know, something... Just to enhance the separation on attempt and make the flash very valuable. Anyway, I like the idea of this scoring system, not bad!
I understand, it's just the numbers that are odd.
I still think the disciplines should be entirely separate, the strengths required are completely different. Failure on the part of the Olympic committee that lets the sport down. Why include it if they do not give the sport full expression?
I love with how much joy they impersonate role models and how nice they cheer each other up. Not a lot of sports where this sportsmanship is as big as in climbing!
so glad speed has a seperate medal hopefully next time bouldering will have a separate one as well.
How did they come up with this eccentric scoring system?
You don't want to do Speed Adam?
because no one cares about watching it and its a joke bastardization of the sport
Ovis not
He loves speed, but bad people at IFSC changed the format :(
@@dark-o I'm pretty he's said (maybe in a Magnus mitbo video) he's not great at speed and prefers not to do it at a competitive level
such a beautiful filming and edditing! Nice job and congrats to both of you. I love your cemestry
I think speed climbers themselves must be happy as well! What a mega event 😃
Jesus, that guys neck surely has a elbow or knee or sth.
Soooo... if all the climber fall under hold 20... the results will be based on bouldering only... ?
"Old Man Jakob with one more gold :)
Thanks for explaining the points system . I really loved watching the ECH , I think it was well organized .
Nice explanation! Appreciated this video ☺️☺️
thank god no more speed 🙏
Good video. Nice work Jacob, and I like the love you show him for doing well
Good - now maybe my gym will take down their speed wall and put up more sport routes.
I have some feedback for you guys. You have to work on your thumbnail. Like with this one you have to put a bigger picture of adam on the front. I love these videos and watch every one but right now im only here because i saw the new insta post. I didnt realize there was a new video at my subscriptions because there are just too many and I overlooked it because it didnt grab my attention.
Keep up the great work and effort here on youtube!!
I like the format, but I think some changes are needed for the scoring. In particular -0.1 per attempt in the bouldering should be increased. As it is, there is almost no benefit to flashing a boulder compared to completing it in 5 attempts - particularly important if most of the boulders are easy and you expect many tops. Increasing it to -1 might help to give greater variance in the scores after bouldering (in the European Championships the top four climbers were only separated by 0.2 points after bouldering). Similarly for getting a ‘+’ in the lead - only 0.1 points is too small, maybe it should be half of the points of the next hold.
It's not supposed to be a meaningful difference. It's supposed to be an approximation to "how many tops" with a tie-break of "how many attempts". That's the traditional boulder scoring system. And for that purpose -0.1 might as well be -0.01. They chose -0.1 so that it's small enough to never matter but simple enough that the electronic scoreboards can easily display it.
@@ipudisciple If it's just a boulder event then I agree. But in a combined event the boulder score should always be considered in comparison to the lead score. If climber number 1 flashes a boulder, and climber number 2 takes three attempts to top a boulder but climbs one hold higher in the lead, then should we judge climber number 2 as performing better? Maybe, but it's something to be discussed, and I don't think the current system correctly balances the scoring of boulder and lead
I think the system was quite lucky in the European championships that the best lead climbers (Adam and Jakob) also got very high scores in the boulder. It would be interesting to see in an international event how it works, especially with the Japanese climbers who have more specialist boulderers. Then the balance between boulder and lead will be more important
Took off the afternoon of that day from work so i could watch this comp live there 😂 and it was so worth it!
I feel bad for Alberto as he was not even considered in the competition between these two although he did beat them in the last olympics. should have included his performance to show how dropping speed changes everything in favor of adam and jacob.
No matter what Adam Ondra does he always exemplifies one things - positivity within his good spirit - and thats all you can ask for out of a competitor and person such as himself
Can't tell if it's the short hair but Adam looks like he bulked up a bit.
Adam on 5:22, seems like he rushed it? I've found that they usually fail if they rush or jump when they can take it slow.
Just out of interest does this mean that if a competitor skips a hold that but still tops out the would score less points than someone who topped but used all of the holds?
no
I love how they help each other and share opinions while figuring out the route. Imagine football players competiting against each other doing something like that.
This new scoring system is orders of magnitude better than the bullshit that they had at the olympics. I don't see why swimming gets 37 different events but rock climbing had to fight so hard to get 2.
The modern boulders are too ninja style. It no more likle mimic the outside rock climbing. I don't like it.
Opět pěkný výkon, jsem na takového sportovce jako si ty hrdý! 🥇🥈🥉👍🏻
I thought you liked speed 🌚
Wtf IOC have in there mind ? Why they don't want just give 3 medals ? and keep the format of IFSC comps. I don't like way they want to change rules of incoming sports and the influence they have on them. They think they are on a pedestal.
Who can climb adams neck the fastest
Really don't understand why they can't have three seperate events and medals? They give medals away like candy for athletics and swimming (and appropriatley so), how is this any different?
The comment about wanting three medals - perhaps, but I'd rather have it be boulder, lead, and combined. Just drop speed. So few people care about it compared to the other two, it's like the package deal where you get a "free subscription to Bathroom Cleaning Magazine" with your subscription to what you actually want.
Competitori for medals may kill climbing, the competition is with ourself, not against the other climber, this gives a weird moral to the pure spirit of climbing.
Thank god speed has been removed
I'm a little confused about the point system in bouldering, maybe someone can clarify ; if you were to get to the 2nd zone on your first try you'd have 6 points, but if you give the boulder another try and don't top it you'd go to 5.9 points ? fells kinda strange to lose points you earned, wouldn't it be a strat to just get to the 2nd zone first try and not try to top if you feel like you won't manage sometime ?
Congratulations for the Silver Medal! I like the Concept of the Combined Competition. It is very interesting to watch.
Congratulations!! Thanks for posting the highlights of your climbing with commentary from both you and Jakob.
at 6:35 they should have lowered the 2nd place where adam was because he is so tall it made it look like the podium went from 1st to 2nd to 3rd instead of 213
if Jakob beats you in the next olympic games, are you going to stop talking to him too?
If you lose again you can't blame the formula anymore. Maybe to the weather...idk
I’ve actually come around to the idea of a combined event - it’s so cool to have some measure of who the best ‘all round’ climber is
It is nice in some ways, the drawback is that climbers who are really strong boulderers or lead climbers have to train in multiple disciplines rather than focusing on what they're best at which causes them to be a bit worse in their preferred area. Most boulderers also climb lead so it's not a big issue combining those two, but speed is like an entirely different event, it's like if triathlons were running, cycling and shotput, one of them just doesn't fit with the others.
3 separate medals plus 1 for lead+bouldering and one all combined, is more logical. Even skip all combined. Speed climbing is not climbing.
@@jeksewnoleeray1020 combined event of speed, bouldering, and lead is akin to having combined timing for 100m sprint, 400m dash, and full marathon.
Nonetheless I do enjoy watching climbers that wasn't specialist in their event doing something outside their comfort zone. Some fail some succeed, but that's what makes them climbers.
haha, still on the second place, Adam is taller then Jakob on the 1. place 🙂
What's the next competition for climbing and are you going to be competing in it?
Sorry new to the whole competitive scene of climbing
Really great how you explain the system to people who are not that involved in it. Super clear when you say that. And of course congrats to the medal set from Munich. You’re 🔝
Is speed climbing still going to be a part of the Olympic program?
yes, but as a separate event with it's own medal
@@rriverapr89 Nice! Makes sense. Happy about that change.
But there are climbers who are able to top boulder with the last try, if your attempts goes into it and it doesnt score, that sucks alot. And if they are scoring it by points now on lead then why is there a timer.
Also. What do you think about two athletes climbing at the same time?
I hated watching this (must be even worse when watching at the venue without split screen and the ability to pause and go back) but also, they athletes will see each other's beta... ?
Hey Adam, when they separate the boulder and lead comps at the Olympics, I’d consider competing! 🤣
💟
Wow - very nice clip. good luck for the next competition
Great climbing shots! Was awesome to see adam pulling moves on those crazy boulders. I like the rock, but also love the cool gym boulder moves!
that mascot is cute!
Adam? He's not a mascot...
He was honestly pretty annoying in real life :p
@@satanaz Nha mate the mascot in the first 5 seconds of the vid.
Congratulations on winning the lead and being a father
🥰😇💗♥️💖❤️😘💓❣️
Being in the crowd was incredible, what an event this has been!
What about Sam or Mejdi?
목 긴게 도움이 되나
Parádní práce čekal sem kdy bude video z Munichu , škoda že ve videu není zahrnuto bubnování 😁 takový momentky jsou skvělý
Kluci strašně rád bych viděl njeakej ten kolab s Jirkou Procházkou a Adamem , třeba jeden den si prohodid trenál
Good thing they got rid of ‘speed ‘climbing
thanks for the post!
So much better!
Cool - thanks
Incredible
good for dropping speed. now must separate lead and boulder.
HQ edit
Adam❤❤❤
Cool!
LETS GO TURDO 🇨🇦
What I expect to see is people cutting their bouldering effort short if they get intermediate points on the first attempt and don't top in the next few attempts.
It's actually the other way around. (It happened in one of the women's bouldering rounds, I think).
In the old format, if the athlete has the zone but know they have no chance to top, they leave to save the skin and energy.
Now if they have one zone, they will still climb again even if they know they cannot top (for time, skin or simply strength reason) because they can still get the second zone a create more separation.
@@krissroxxy I'm talking about ending the effort between second zone and top in order to avoid the penalty, since the scoring doesn't sort by number of tops. Historically problems have been set with the upper section being the least-achievable (for whatever reason), so spending .5 or .8 on a problem you don't think you can get the 25 is much less attractive than racking up attempts to get another top. Probably won't happen that often but it'll definitely be a topic of discussion when it does.
@@themeatpopsicle i see. Yeah i guess
Nice!
Nice
Lead's scoring is not really fair... if someone falls just before a change in points per hold, it won't reflect his/her efforts proportionally. Just my feeling fwiw ^^
As a viewer, it'd be better if the early lead holds were worth something, because otherwise, they feel "point-less," so to speak. It's like it's saying to the viewer: the real climbing hasn't started yet. Could also obviously lead to problems of separation, if two climbers were tied in bouldering, and fell at different spots on the lead wall.
I'd like decimals like the attempts on boulders
The early holds on the lead wall are not supposed to be testing. At that level, they don't (usually) fall from there. The early holds are a test of how efficiently you can climb them. As such, the effect is felt later on, when the pump sets in earlier or later.
@@ipudisciple People do slip though. If you slip on hold 2 vs hold 20 there's a difference in performance. Not that either of those people are medaling (hopefully)
@@ipudisciple See Innsbruck, 2022, women's finals, and watch person after person fall early. See Adam Ondra, falling early in Innsbruck in 2021. In most finals, at least one person falls early.
@@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 Makes sense to me. I was thinking the same thing.
I certainly agree with Jakob on separating the medals,
and additionally,, STRONGLY SUGGEST that speed climbing should be updated to use of an extension ladder, with speed climbers required to carry buckets of soapy water and squeegees, with stopping points at which they are required to wash windows.
Because climbing is normally creative/problem solving, of course scoring of speed climbing will include negative marks for number of streaks left on the windows.
Good improvement on format, but why is bouldering you get 3 points, 6 points, or 25 points?? That is so dumb. It should be like 5-15-25 or something since the hardest part of boulder problems arent always the finish, plus the difference between being able to do the last move on a problem and only getting to the 2nd zone should have a different point valuation (kind of like the lead climb portion). I don't think it would be healthy to restrict the boulder point value based on hold-by-hold points, but I think 3-6-25 is very poor form and whoever thought that was the solution should not be in the position they are in
6 was chosen very intentionally, so that tops are always more important than zones (the way bouldering has always been scored). 1 top 0 zones = 25 points, 0 tops 4 zones = 24 points. Whether you agree that tops should always take priority is a different question, but mathematically that's why they chose the numbers they did.
The length of that neck is so intimidating
This has to be the worst scoring system I have ever seen. Its overly complicated, weights lead heavily over boulder, the 0.1 deduction for attempts on boulder seems irrelevant, just make a full point deduction if you are going to deduct anything. Just make a zone for each boulder 5 pts, additional 5pts for top and each move on lead 1 point each. Something like this.
the system worked great. i think it‘s also really fair. points in lead do have to be somewhat more distributed to the top otherwise 1 boulder would count for a quarter of the lead route. the 0.1 also make a lot more sense than the + they used to have
The goal of the format is that you max at 100 points per discipline if you flash all boulders and top the lead route which balances them out. Tops should have a much higher impact than making a zone. It still has top > zone > attempts, but if someone goes top on 10 attempts, they still topped it in the end. The math is much more fair here
I guess 0.1 is supposed to be useless unless there is a draw.
@@giacomocasanova2893 the way this system works makes the attempts you take on the boulder irrelevant. Jakob couldve taken literally 50 more attempts and still beat adam with reaching 1 higher lead hold. As he did
.1 deduction is relevant to track attempts on a bloc versus no penalty for a flash
so sick bro
how is Ondra still considered the best climber in the world... I've never see him do great things at competitions. Is he too nervous?
You don't watch many comps, do you?
I just realized that I have climbed 5.13 since before Adam was born.