Like the owner driving this heap to the shop with the dashboard screaming at them? Why pay for a Tow after not paying for competent installers or quality installation hardware? Children, vehicles today are rolling electrical systems. Don't take this attitude when adding a vibrating seat cover.
I recently bought a dash cam and a 'universal' installation kit expecting I would have everything needed to add the circuit to my wife's 2018 Equinox. That was a big NOPE. Ended up having to order the correct add-a-fuse adapter. Moreover, I could find no vendor who makes a 2A fuse in the type for the Equinox, so had to put in a 5A instead. I'm no pro, but at least I know how to use a multimeter. How the installer could have given that truck back to the customer with the new device also inoperative just makes me shake my head. Or, maybe the 'installer' was the customer?
Same happened to me, except the kit came with a standard size add-a-fuse. So I ordered a mini-blade add a fuse, when it arrived I then learned that micro-blade fuses exist.... That was frustrating but at last it's in and right now.
You're OK with the 5A fuse as long as it's smaller than the car fuse beside it, dashcam wiring will handle 5A. The purpose of the fuse is to protect the car so a short in the cam doesn't fry car wiring. As Ray shows, you need the correct add-a-fuse, so before buying your cam know what kind of fuses your car uses- most better dashcam sellers can supply what you need if you ask. I beta-test and review dashcams for 4 of the top brands (and some others too) and while these are easy to DIY a lot of people have powering issues, mostly from not knowing what they're doing, but sometimes from the car itself with CANBUS and start/stop car systems not being the same as older cars always were.
I never even knew these add-a-fuse were a thing. I always tap into the wiring behind the fuse box, and add an appropriate amperage inline fuse to the new wire.
@@grumpycarlsworld that works too but it’s nice to not cut up a new vehicle’s wiring, especially in warranty. For something old and there’s plenty of room and slack in the wires to work go ahead.
It looks like who ever installed the electronics took a short cut and didn't care about the stuff that was no longer working!! Great job Ray keep doing what you do!!!!😀
@@gator2813 then you need an inline fuse, the add a circuits work great for low amperage stuff I always cut the crimp connector off the end and solder it
I'm guessing the installer and the customer were the same person. Now I have about 23 years of professional electrical work under my belt so it's obvious this was a rookie mistake, but the idea that a shop sent it without working, and the customer left the shop with all the idiot lights on and didn't do a U-turn ... hmm yeah I think the customer was at home in the garage and finally threw in the towel after they felt defeat.
agreed. It seems such a simple fix though. One fuse is fusing the new device that is attached to the wire, then the other fuse is doing the job of fusing that original fuse slot. Both fuses took turns in working when it were inserted the various (2) ways. it suggests that the connector was faulty. That being the connection which fused the original fuse slot, which in turn allowed the radio and the two 12v sockets to work. If someone is gonna throw in the towel at such a simple deduction of the problem, they shouldnt be doing electrical DIY :D
Great info on basic electrical checks. Tbh I don't like working on things I don't know about (what was that jumper feeding???) . I would have put the 15a back in it's original spot, verified the radio n aux worked n told them to return it to upfitters. Glad you had the confidence to repair it, I'm sure the customer was very happy 🙂 . Edit: that last bit about ignorance was SPOT on 👍
I agree with you about "ignorance" rather than malice being the root. I think "lazy" plays a part as well. They learn to work the machines rather that diagnose the problems.
It's obvious that whoever did the add-on work just checked to make sure what they added worked, and never checked to see if what the work affected still worked ... it didn't. Ray, your professionalism and experience in troubleshooting, checking ALL the work and what it affects, is a lesson for all.
I don't think the added device worked either as there were no fuses in the add-on pigtail. One fuse is the original circuit and the other is the new device.
They do have a direction they go. The fuse taps. While they will work either direction.. The wire is only connected on one leg of the add a fuse. It needs to go to the hot leg of the fuse panel. Otherwise, you are adding your circuit to the original fuse as well. In other words, you would be getting the hot for your add a wire from the cold side of the original fuse, so pulling your power through the original circuit fuse. On the hot leg, then both the original fuse and the new wire get power from the hot leg and pass only the current for the separate circuit through their separate fuses.
Looks more like the customer tried to do the install them self, messed up and when it didn’t work brought it round to you to fix. If it had been installed somewhere else they’d have taken it back there. Surely they wouldn’t pay for a non working installation!
I ran into this issue installing my dash cam, good thing the pigtails came with an assortment of types, I took a neighboring fuse out, compared it to the cables and that helped me pick the correct one🤷🏻♂️
Depending on how you plug it in, the added circuit could end up going through the 15A first, which means it carries the additional load before it gets to the new load.
The easy way to test it is to put a fuse in only the new circuit, then plug in the Add-A-Circuit device. If the new circuit works, then that's how to plug it in. If it doesn't, swap it. Then add the fuse for the original circuit. That way, the new fuse carries the entire load of the new circuit, and the original fuse does not.
This is an indicator that you are doing it wrong. The fuse holder comes with instructions. The truck's fuse box has no room for additional circuits. The vibrating seat cover being installed has a long and varied list of "Attachments."
A lot of qualified people do not have the ability to understand what they are qualified for 🤣 😂 🤣 Thanks, Ray for providing great insight, entertainment and proof of your skill. Wish I was close, so you could look after my vehicles.
Hey, Ray Avid watcher, rare commenter. Quick note to say thanks. This video helped me diagnose a power issue in my project car. I'd been chasing a power issue, and never considered the add-a-circuit. Your methodical troubleshooting pointed out my miss. I found the added circuit had high resistance and clearly had failed. I'll eventually hardwire with a relay and inline fuse, but replaced it for the short term. Thanks!
FYI I learned in airplane mechanics school that a crimped connector performed with the appropriate crimp and crimper is better then a soldered connector. Due to two factors: most techs never leaned to solder (I can attest to this by experience) and solder wicking up the wire makes a hard spot that will fail if subjected to excessive vibration. Before the Rheeeeee it’s jus my 2 cents.
Roy Johnson I agree another thing to think about if joint gets warm can "Dry Joint " Behind radio's / AC / Heater you would be surprised how Warm it gets , Whereas a crimped joint is so much better Safer and the way it should be done.
At least now I know there's a type of fuse that I haven't run into yet. Googling shows me SIX different types of blade fuses and I think I've only had to work with one. I've never seen an add-a-fuse. I guess the last time I thought about adding a radio to a car we were still using glass fuses in in-line cases. Why do I have to be reminded of my advancing age all the time?
Just a note Ray: You installed the add-a-fuse backwards. The "hot side" of the add-a-fuse is a single connection point across both circuits that is the opposite side of where the wire comes out. This side should be connected to the hot-side of the fuse panel. By installing it the way you did, the added circuit is literally running through BOTH fuses. If it is just a backup camera, probably won't make a difference in the long run, but if it were say, a powerful cargo lamp that drew 7 amps while the stereo was drawing 9 amps across a good heavy bass riff at high volume (not likely, but you never know), that 15 amp fuse will blow killing both circuits. The side the wire comes out of needs to go to the fused side of the block, and the opposite (straight) side goes to the hot bar in the block.
Agreed. The add-a-fuse was installed upside down at the end. Top rail of the fuse box is powered, bottom rail goes to the devices. On an add-a-fuse, the side containing the wire is the side that goes to the device and therefore should be the side installed on the bottom rail.
I noticed that and then thought the guy doing the repair doesn’t really understand the circuit! That’s why an auto electrician is a trade in its own right!
@@GReaper absolutely, no slight intended! Just pointing out you can’t play about with electrical circuits! I was an electrical engineer before I retired but would still consult an auto electrician for more complicated automotive faults!
I didn't pay attention to him testing with the meter to see which was hot, but some automotive fuse boxes have alternating power feed sides, depending on the circuit feeding them. constant power/switched ignition/relay fed, so forth. they're like a four edged sword, never assume anything except it's sharp and pokey. 🙃
The original install evidently was done by one of those "Don't sweat the small stuff" persons. I learned a long time ago that details mean everything. Also, with "add a fuse" adapters, I make sure that I install them in the correct position. There should be no power to the accessory down the line with no fuse install. The accessory should not work with no fuse. Otherwise, the fuse provides no protection. That is an often overlooked mistake.
whenever i have used them in the past I have always made sure the fuse tap was not defective like the original one in the video, I did this by cont checking the fuse positions with their load/ supply sides
What I noticed, when you were flipping the add a fuse. One fuse would get power, flip it, then the other would get power. I think the add a plug is bad.
I suspect as @Cecil Jacobs says customer bought and fitted the after market accessory and could not get it working and thought they broke the car and to save face they said it was someone else.
I just started working as a production manager at a shop and I don't know tons about turning wrenches, but I just did complete a parts management course for my part of the work process. Seeing the other side of the process is invaluable and I appreciate the content you are putting out. Thank you.
After COVID, the world kinda gave up. Any kind of customer service or quality control went out the window. What's sad is if those guys go back to the shop that installed that and complain, they'll probably just say "sorry sir there's a fuse shortage". I know there are some legitimate shortages but I feel like a lot of people blame incompetence on it.
Have you noticed that there's just more defects in products? I'm sure that's what you mean also but I've stopped going to most major retailers and quit buying cheap stuff because even the expensive stuff falls apart in 2 seconds now. Let alone the cheap stuff
I think you're right. Empty shelves are too often explained by saying "It's on a ship in the harbor, that can't get unloaded." Nobody now, can be blamed for shortages that are from laziness, they just blame the 'supply shortage.' Wish I could have had an excuse like that 20 years ago when there was 1 or 2 empty spaces in the shelves.
I'm often unqualified to do my job. But the crazy thing is that even when I know I'm in way over my head, I'm still way more qualified to do it than some of the other guys who are doing the same thing! It's kind of depressing.
Cheer up ...even most managers are somewhat incompetent... it's called The Peter Principle, where a person is promoted to one step beyond their level of competence. LoL
@@fredygump5578 There you go.....so now you can relax knowing that it all doesnt matter, just go with the flow, and dont whatever you do confront any stupid ideas, just offer polite criticism once without repeating it and making an enemy. It might all be ok anyway. Lol Good luck.
As long as you take pride and work and you're honest with the people around you and the customers that's the main thing if you have the right attitude you'll learn to do it right and things will get a lot better everyday have a great day o
Look at it this way, one man's ignorance is another man's paycheck. Maybe next time the customer will not want to pay twice to get something installed and come to you to do it correctly once. Have a great day Ray. You are the kind of tech that I would love to bring my vehicle to all the time.
There's a reporter named Rob and he has a thing called the Hall of Shame. Not very many investigative journalism going on but he's one of the best at highlighting thieving scammers
You must be from the metro Detroit area I know exactly who you are talking about. I know you mean mr. rob wolchek at Fox 2 wjbk tv in Detroit. Im originally from metro Detroit myself but have relocated to Florida. And I love rob when he does the hall of shame.
Good comments on here regarding orientation and butt connectors. I have a butt connected wire in the engine compartment for a trailer hitch on the used van we bought. I'm going to be making corrections.
Tricky find. Direction matters A LOT on those jumpers. Also, they are current limited as stated on the box. Study the directions carefully and do some research before considering these. As noted below, using a non-critical circuit is a good idea.
I absolutely love the thorough manner you always approach what ever task you have in front of you. Your problem solving skill is one to to pass on to others. Keep up the great videos!!
Can you charge the customer for the pigtail/add a fuse connector? If not, i'm noticing these things would add up after a while. Those things shouldn't come out of your pocket. Extra bolts, ect are one thing, but those connectors can be 5 -10 bucks at the store.
The way i have always done it for small stuff like that is, add a shop supplies fee to the bill. ( usually 5 to 10 dollars, I do 5.) Then the tech orders it on the shop account and puts the new one back in their stash to replace the one they used.
I can't speak for Ray but when I Use to be a mechanic and I had my box of extra's fuses, pigtails that is what they are extras and I wouldn't charge for something that was paid for by someone else. I would ask the previous customer if they wanted the extra parts after all they paid for them. If they decline i throw them in my spare parts bin kind of pay it forward type thing. Like for this job I would just simply exchange one "add a fuse" for another. Many bosses hate this but at the same time they understand it also helps bring back a customer when they found out they got a $1.00 part for free and not paid $10.00 for it. If i had a good spare part I would tell the customer be it from my "free" pile or the shops bone yard. If it was from the shelf or the bone yard they get charged. my own stash no charge.
I'm worried about the day that I can't repair my own vehicles. I have been a vehicle engineer for over 45 years and have treated my customers like family. So no ripping people off, but now I'm getting old and just might have to start using local garages to repair my car. Let's just say that not all repair workshops ae as good as you or I Ray. It's my opinion that your vehicle technician should be on your Christmas card list... someone you know and trust. I wish that I had someone that I could pass my knowledge on to, because when I die, a liberty of mechanical knowledge goes with me. Well done, Ray. You show that not all fitters, technicians, or vehicle engineers are rip-off merchants and put a little faith back into the industry.
I had the same feeling I agree with you and unfortunately I put my vehicle in a few different shops and ended up having to straighten it out and now I start doing my own work again at 69 years old do I need to be doing it now but I've had too many things go wrong it shouldn't have happened have a great day
the dealers have a habit of ripping people off---how do i know---quoted 4000.00 dollars for a wiring harness not needed,,,what fixed it removal of a chunk of aluminum foil caught between the starter and the fan shroud{metal}
I think you have left the added circuit (on that butt spliced red wire) unfused. The center rail of the fuse box is powered and since you put the wire up it is most likely powered directly through the powered rail and not through the fuse. The confirmation test would be to pull the fuse from the add-a-fuse and see if the wire still has power, if it does you need to flip it so the wire is down. SIDE NOTE: my OPINION is those add-a-fuse connectors are junk and should never be used.
I think they have a place. I used one to install a hardwire radar detector. Must more simple for a low amp draw then to run a wire to the battery through the firewall.
@@danielwaldrip like I said it's my opinion (to each their own) but there are better ways than those things to tap an existing circuit that also don't involve going through the fire wall. In fact I don't recommend going straight to the battery either (especially not without a fuse which I see all too often).
No, the fuses are tied together on only one side. Reversing the plug like Ray did will send all power thru the 15amp fuse first, then thru the second fuse to the added accessory.
I worked on a friends van that he used to tow a pop up camper. He had a tow hitch installed by a national company, starts with u. He called to ask me to look at his brakes in the van. It turns out the "pros" from U used a saddle connector for the brake circuit. When I opened the connector the blade that slides over the wires was missing. I replaced the connector with proper hook ups and all was corrected. How could a national place use a fitting that could cause a serious accident dragging a camper with no brakes. Boggles the mind. Thanks for all your great vis Ray Man.
I never use those because seen too many newer vehicles the wires to the fuse won't take that much extra load. that shows that they never tested their installation/work.
Just use a slot that has low amp fuse in it and correctly put the fuse in the right slot of the splicer thing, if it's in the wrong slot and both fuses are not the same it will provide to high or low value fuse If the splitter is upside down it will pull the power via the original fuse instead of it been 2 independent fuses, the extra load might blow the fuse
most likely the original add a fuse is probably good but it was designed for standard fuses and not the mini fuses that the vehicle had. I think that Ray likely kept it in his stash for the future.
I added a Dash Cam and a wiring kit for said dash cam to my Hyundai Elantra. The wiring kit came with several adapters for the various fuse types like the one shown in this video. Ingenious inventions these wiring kits like this but you have to use the right type for your application.
If it is the backup camera that is feeding off those 2 runs I would actually look for an unused fuse port or tie it into the reverese circuit like it should have been.
Also noted due to the ability to orientate the fuse adapter both ways. Potentially, if the new adaptor is installed the wrong way around, the power could have to go through both fuses to get to the added accessory. To test this you could install the new accessory fuse to see if it then powers the pigtail.
I have a feeling that you installed that pigtail upside down. The vehicle voltage was on the top terminal of the fuse box strip, that should connect to the 'non pigtail' side of the add a fuse, the way you have it, power is going through the 15A fuse before it goes off to the 10A fuse.
That fuse tap is bad, I've used the mini style in those before without a problem. Also it does make a difference which way it's installed. The side without the wire is your power side. If installed with the wire on the power side of the fuse, then your accessory you added runs thru both fuses and the main thru just the one, so basically if the original fuse blows you lose both circuits..
Actually the added accessory runs unfused in this configuration, not through both fuses. If the 10A fuse was removed, the added accessory would still run.
@@bendfleming no that is incorrect.. there is in no way using these taps that either could be unfused.. only the power side is connected together. If reversed, then both circuits are powered thru the main fuse.. I've fixed many that was hooked up backwards.. if a 10 amp fuse is used on the main in a reversed configuration and a 15 amp on the acc circuit then both circuits would be limited to the 10 amps combined..
Great to see a mechanic fix the issue with their aftermarket solution rather than just replace the fuse after pulling the aftermarket systems add a fuse out. 🎉
People just don't know enough to know they don't know enough. We used to think ignorance was bliss. Now we know a good mentor is the power. We need more people out in the field using their mind and their hands than sitting behind a desk. I have done both and yes I love the air conditioning but making something from scratch with your hands there's nothing better...well maybe one thing is better but that's a whole different story.
My whole life of Love bigger and stuff out building stuff taking a block of wood steel or whatever and turn into something else that I want that I need or for somebody else I've done this my whole life and then I found out I can make money at it and make people feel good and solve their problems I've been doing it ever since up until I retired have a great day
Ray... Be sure that the adaptor is inserted the correct way... If flipped over BOTH the original circuit and the added circuit will NOT be fused or protected... It looks like you might have this problem...
Ray you shine(pun intended)! What set you apart for those who installed that add a fuse is your integrity. You double check and triple check your work. Your work is assured before you place that check mark!!
Yup, the double checking is a big difference. This fault would have taken me a few hrs because I would have needed to know what the pigtail thingy was feeding. Ray is dead on, the training is important but also the obsession to know ways to double check stuff. Great video!
But he didn't check the work. He fixed the obvious part of the install-gone-wrong. Did he Question why the installer added a circuit to one that disables the ABS Circuit WHEN it fails? I bet there are other 15 amp circuits right there that would be much safer to lose while driving than the one chosen.
@@CMDR_CLASSIFIED ...And that's on the Engineer who designed the Circuits, and their Supervisor, and the Manufacturer. Cigar Lighters have been a rarity on vehicles for a long time. Must be that the new guy slapped one on whatever circuit was "easy" because it doesn't make any sense. What matters is that I don't get paid to make people's cars more unsafe. Saying that the factory did something foolish doesn't disprove MY LOGIC.
There's a limitation on the time and accountability when a customer is paying a lot for labour. By using the same supply point, the supply is already verified. A better supply point would be an improvement if after testing one could be found. It wouldn't add extra dismantling work if the customer preferred to choose further diagnostic work. So its a debatable point. IMO. As a customer I would be delighted with a speedy job, and might whine that it was an upsell if more time was added.
I would have tested the replacement add a fuse first before crimping the butt connector to the accessory wire. Orientation into the fuse panel seems to be important for these. In one direction the added accessory fuse would effectively be in series with the original fuse, in the other direction both fuses would be getting their power feed from the battery side of the fuse panel. As for the original add a fuse, it was weird that one fuse would show power on both sides, but the other would show no power on either side. In at least one orientation, you should have power on one side of both fuses.
Hi from Australia, love watching your repairs. I have always called those fuse adaptors "Fuse Taps". I have seen more then my fair share of bad installs with those adaptors. I find it advisable to recrimp the manufacturers side of the crimp as a "just in case". I have found "Out of box fails" where the crimps are not crimped tight enough from new.
The problem is that everything from an outside point of view seems easy when an expert does it. Good DIY requires a certain subset of skills that one cannot learn from watching a video once.
Oh yes. I work in horticulte and every kind of work we do can be shown to any completely unskilled help in five minutes. The three years of job training for the pros is all about identifying the issues and deciding on the measures to be taken.
For anyone else using these add-a-fuse accessories: It really matters what orientation they are plugged in when installed. Ray leaves this installed with the lead pointing to the side of the supply in the fuse board so the new equipment is supplied by the fused side of the original circuit, so effectively double fusing it, but increasing the load on the original circuit. Possibly intentional, but it makes it more likely to blow the original circuit fuse if the new equipment overloads the circuit. Fine for an accessory circuit only but not so good if this is running other kit and disables safety functions like ABS etc. To isolate the circuits properly, the add-a-fuse should be plugged in with the lead (indicating the load side) pointing to the load side of the fuse block, the one that doesn't have a voltage when tested open.
I was just wondering about how that thing was wired. Surprised Ray didn't verify that the common side of the add-a-fuse was on the supply side of the fuse panel. The again, that add-a-fuse didn't look like it had been in his junk drawer for long either. Almost like it was a setup and he purchased the correct the and threw it in there to "find" on camera.
Funny, never seen that small fuse before - but they are called "micro" fuses. The bladed ones you first tried (and was the piggy back) are "mini" fuses. Learning something every day! (Still never seen one though)
I remember when fuses were glass see-through cartridges and if they blew out we used to stick aluminum foil from a pack of cigarettes in there ooh that's not right have a good day
As much as I like your videos I would have to say in this case I think you made an error. Based in your own tests of the power and now power sides of the fuse position on the fuse board you have put the add-a-fuse is in upside down. It’s the only time I have seen you do something like that, not bad considering how many videos you turn out. 👍
I am pretty sure there are no diodes in an add-a-fuse. There is no backwards. way to put in a fuse. it either provides a connection or it doesn't. Edit: Just figured out I made a mistake. There is a backwards way to install the add a fuse. However, unless you have a high draw accessory, you would not have an issue under normal circumstances. I have a battery backup for the dash cam in my car, it pulls 9amps when charging. If this was on a shared circuit and install backwards, I would need to take into account the draw the device on that circuit would normally have and account for that when adding in the additional load.
When the add a fuse is installed the wrong way round, as in this case. The new additional circuit is unfused. The new out going circuit should be on the opposite side to the live side of the fusebox. The top side of the fusebox was live when tested, so the outgoing cable should be on the bottom, causing the power to go through the fuse.
@@colingooden3711 It is not unfused, it is double fused. One pin is connected to both fuses, the other pin is only connected to the bottom fuse. This is at least the cased in the Add-a-fuses I have on hand which I checked the continuity on.
I thought as much. I looked it up elsewhere. That fuse tap has to go in the right way. The tip furthest from the wire is the common and needs to go to the 12V supply side of the fuse socket. That way, both fuses are directly connected to 12V. Either can blow and the other device still has a good fuse. If you plug the tap in backwards, the add-on fuse will be getting its power from the first fuse. If the second fuse blows, the first device still has power. If the first fuse blows, both sides will lose power.
I heard what bugged you about this - what bugs me about this is that someone installs a "new" electronic in a van and thinks to use this "add a fuse" gizmo instead of simply using the "SPARE" slot that exists in the fuse panel. What do you think they manufacturer put the spare spots there for? It's like deciding to hook up everything you own into a single extension cord and refusing instead to use the other outlet in the wall.
Spare slots may only be energized when ignition is in accessory or run mode. If you need power at all times, you may need to tap into an existing circuit. Such was the case for my dashcam with movement sensor. The add-a-fuse is actually a pretty elegant and non-invasive solution if you don't want to be disassembling/drilling/soldering just to put something after-market in your vehicle and make it look like it belongs.
Wait, did you verify the load side and the powered side of the add a fuse was correct? If the add a fuse was installed upside down would it not provide fused protection? As in probing the add a fuse red wire to the connection blades to figure out the supply side and load side then ensuring it was inserted into the fuse block correctly. Otherwise wouldn't it just be run directly to the powered side and not protected by the fuse? I've never messed with that style of add a fuse so I'm not sure if it even matters but it seems like it would make a big safety difference. It may only change whether the added circuit is double fused or two parallel fuses off the fuse block supply side. I dunno.
Jammin if you’re right (sounds right, I don’t know) then the add-a-fuse would have a little warning slip of paper in the box saying “important!…be sure the tail is installed…” it probably did but no one bothered to read it.
its probably been mentioned already but I'll go ahead and say it... these ad a circuit "are" directional!!! this goes for atc, atm, micro , mini, and low profile. The prong closest to the wire is directly connected to the wire! this prong must "NOT" go into the the B+ terminal of the fuse box!!! the accessory will work when installed wrong but... it will "NOT" be protected from the fuse!!!. if a short circuit occurs there will be smoke and burnt/melted wires and usually melts the original fuse holder. don't take my word for it. grab one of these add a circuits and test the continuity without the fuse in it.
They are directional but not as unsafe as you suppose. The common pin is the one opposite the wire. What that means is that when installed reversed, as at the end of this video, the original circuit is still fused but the new circuit is fused from the laod side of the original circuit fuse, so double-fused in fact. Simply makes it more likely to blow a fuse though overloading, the short circuit protection is still there.
@@jncg2311 installing the add a circuit backwards would be exactly like jamming a wire in the 12v terminal of the fuse holder then connecting the wire to a load!!! It will supply unfused power to that load!!! It makes "no" difference if there is a fuse . The original fused circuit will be protected but the add on circuit if installed backwards "will be unprotected ". End of story
@@bensfixitpage341 I think you and I are talking about different products then. The add-a-fuse with two fuse slots, as shown in this video isn't internally connected as you describe. With no fuses in place, there should be no power getting to the accessory lead, no matter how you connect it. No story, just how it is.
@@jncg2311 grab your ohm meter and check continuity between the end of the wire and the fuse slot closest to the wire . You will then understand that these are directional and they will "not" provide circuit protection for the add on accessory(no fuse necessary). I forgive you for not knowing how the work
@@bensfixitpage341 Okay, to prove to myself that I wasn't forgetting what I'd understood, I did this test before my previous reply to you. Sat at my desk, my going to town meter, a Fluke 87v a bit like Ray's and an unused add-a-fuse fuse tap accessory. With the fuses removed there is no continuity from the accessory wire to either prong of the fuse holder. If I replace the fuses in the holder, there is continuity from the accessory lead to both prongs. Good. Now pull out the fuse closest to the prongs, you will lose continuity between the accessory lead and the prong closest to the lead only. Now replace that one and pull out the fuse furthest from the prongs and you will lose continuity to both prongs. With that information you can draw up a single line circuit diagram for the fuse tap. With the kit on my desk now there is no way the accessory lead can be powered without fuses installed or if either fuse blows, if installed as in this video. It is basically safe in either orientation but, in agreement with you, it has to be intlstalled the correct way for the specific installation in order to work as intended, a fuse for each load. If yours tests differently you and I must have different products.
CH you are absolutely correct. The power feed was on the top side of the fuse box. So the add a fuse wire needs to be on the bottom side of the fuse box. 😂😂😂 Ray was talking about the previous mechanic being ignorant 😂😂. The added circuit is not a fused circuit. If the new circuit ever has a short that new wire will burn to a crisp.
I had a mechanic working for me who had the same mentality only to an extreme. He hardly threw anything away. When he finally quit, I filled 3 big garbage cans full of old broken parts, pieces of tape, stripped bolts, bent clips and pins, etc. It took me almost a full day to reorganize and clean the shop, which is 12x16. My new guy came in and cleaned after me and made me look like a slob. You could eat off of his workbench. He is also about 3x more productive. I understand saving a few odds and ends like Ray does, but there needs to be a limit.
Low profile mini fuse add on needed. The one they had was the mini. Tabs are different. Lead to a new powered item must go to unpowered side of fuse box. If unsure test for continuity from red lead to either side of connector to fuse block. At 13:53 the add on jack is connected wrong for the add on wiring connection. It is unprotected by the 10 Amp fuse.
There is a lot of ignorance in the automotive repair field. Most techs are trained on the job and have to call the factory for procedural diagnosing. Something the DIY guy does not have access to in general. Today you are driving a computer on wheels.
What does that have to do with this simple diagnosis? The first thing Ray should have done was eliminate the add a circuit and plug a known good fuse into the original slot. He probably knew this, but hey, it was clean work, the customer has to pay a minimum anyway, and the process gave him some good content to share with people to demonstrate a simple diagnostic procedure using a multimeter. And yes, he installed the add-a-fuse upside down, and he is probably aware of that by now, and is kicking himself in the ass for making such a simple mistake.
Because it was a cash job done by the expert down the bar/pub who is cheap, then they find somebody who knows, then they pay much more. And sometime put faults on things that are really hard/impossible to find and can cause damage, they rarely tell the proper repairer the full story/truth, as in "it's probably just a loose connection etc." Been here loads in the consumer electronics and electrical insulation industries. Chop up my soap box now.
If I left my van in to have work done to it and when I went to collect it and noticed the new issues I wouldn't be leaving till they sorted it out Hack job from the fella down the local pub
@RV Shadow Or it was their regular shop and had problems before and got fed up and are now bringing it somewhere else... and possible try to make the first shop pay the bill.
I’m fortunate the mechanic who I use is a whizz with electric stuff other mechanics send their problems to him, I’m with you why try and do something that you know nothing about it only costs you more money in the end
I had an issue with my truck, I thought the electric radiator fan was out, or a thermostat problem. I new shop opened near me and I made an appointment. He took the car in and in fifteen minutes came out and showed me the problem. A fuse, he said I didn't have any and that it would be an hour to have one delivered to the got parts store and buy one. I did. funny the thing was almost 6 bucks. sure beats a new fan motor assembly. He would not take any money either. So he got a customer now. It's an 18-year-old Santa Fe. Made my day! Money is tight, and inflation is really putting me in a spot. I retired last year. Going to find a part-time job.
Crimp >>>> solder in a vehicle. Soldered stranded wires can/will break from vibration at the point of soldering, crimp terminals *are* the right way! (you can use the heatshrink sort if you're worried about corrosion... or just get bare ones and adhesive heatshrink yourself)
For those who will be using an "add-a-fuse": These come in different amperage ratings so be sure the one you buy is rated for the added load. Ignorance is an adjunct of stupidity though the two are different. A smart person knows when they lack knowledge and need to learn while an ignorant person proceeds thinking they have the needed knowledge. The end effect is the same with both, but ignorance can be fixed through education while stupidity can only be fixed by death.
@@TheScotsmanTechReview Not in many or most cases. Fuseboxes today are usually powered by 2 or more heavy busbars which can handle more current than all the fuses combined with every optional accessory offered for the car. As long as you're tapping onto a large enough circuit you should be OK. However the fusebox is done, you're safe with smaller loads like dashcams which run at under 1A and never exceed 2A at start-up. With high loads like 10Aor more you should consult your dealer to be sure you'll be OK.
@@P_RO_ I disagree completely. Do not add additional loads to your circuit. You can try and convince yourself it's safe but as someone who has spent 10 years designing automotive harnesses and circuits, I urge you all to never do this
@Rainman I bets that "add-a-circuit" pigtail YOU installed is upside down. Means that the current for both original circuit and added circuit will go through the ONE (original) fuse. Not good - you did the very thing you were soap-boxing about. Several people noticed this but most said it's OK --- it is not. Their are multiple potential issues this could cause. Additionally, the internal gauge in the add-on device MAY not be sufficient when used this way.
butt connectors are fine, if crimped right. I installed audio equipment for many years, and used a Klein crimper. If you look closely at a butt connector, you'll see where the split is. Don't crimp on the split; crimp so the crimper cradles the split, and the point of the crimper goes in the solid end. (PS don't use a cheap crimper!)
Partial REEEE you put the add a fuse in upside down. The top pin is your power source so the added 10a circuit feeds through the 15a fuse first. Double the protection for the added circuit but all the load is on the 15a fuse for both circuits.
I owned 3 different Lotus Elan M100's over an 11-year period that had the truly great little 1.6L *Isuzu 4XE1 engine.* I put all kinds of boost through those engines and they just "took it." No head-gasket problems or anything. They don't build 'em like that anymore!!!
This is the kind of world 🌎 we've made for ourselves and our children, better have no enemies when the light goes out , due to the economic criss, wars and rate of unemployment I think now is the best time to invest and make more money for the future.
I Found Mr steve brooks portfolio online some weeks ago, It was very remarkable and I was so impressed with the reviews.I made up to 35k canadian dollar trading with him for some weeks now
good to see how you are busy, Came up here to show keen appreciation to Mr. Steve this is how I got a recommendation about Mr. Steve. At first, I was a bit scared.
At 7:25 when you are circuit checking the add-a-fuse prongs through the fuses, it swaps which fuse has continuity when you change blades, which to me indicates an internal fault to the add-a-fuse. I bet it would have worked fine if not for that internal fault
i agree espesically as mini fuses work fine in a micro fuse holder (obviously not the other way around) as the blades on the fuses are the same thickness and size, just the micro fuses are more sunken into the panel, I'm not really sure why manufacturers started using them as unlike the switch from conventional size to mini, there in't any significant space saving to be had from them
Hanlon's razor: Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity.
Like the owner driving this heap to the shop with the dashboard screaming at them?
Why pay for a Tow after not paying for competent installers or quality installation hardware?
Children, vehicles today are rolling electrical systems.
Don't take this attitude when adding a vibrating seat cover.
I've been saying that for years, but never knew a tag name.
@@spelunkerd Same. I'm just not very good at it because I've seen too much malice.
Was literally typing this exact thing up when I saw your post. Ya' beat me to it!
is that what they used to cut the wire. It was a close shave.
Plugged it in the wrong way around since the top rail was the supply rail. Now the add-on draws power over both fuses in serial.
Yeah, its upside down, the red wire should be going down..
I commented before seeing your comment but yes I agree common to +
damn you beat me to it
lol. I had to scroll down to find this, but I had already posted a comment and explanation as well...
Darn it. Just commented on that fact. Scroll down and see yours. LOL
I recently bought a dash cam and a 'universal' installation kit expecting I would have everything needed to add the circuit to my wife's 2018 Equinox. That was a big NOPE. Ended up having to order the correct add-a-fuse adapter. Moreover, I could find no vendor who makes a 2A fuse in the type for the Equinox, so had to put in a 5A instead. I'm no pro, but at least I know how to use a multimeter. How the installer could have given that truck back to the customer with the new device also inoperative just makes me shake my head. Or, maybe the 'installer' was the customer?
Same happened to me, except the kit came with a standard size add-a-fuse. So I ordered a mini-blade add a fuse, when it arrived I then learned that micro-blade fuses exist....
That was frustrating but at last it's in and right now.
You're OK with the 5A fuse as long as it's smaller than the car fuse beside it, dashcam wiring will handle 5A. The purpose of the fuse is to protect the car so a short in the cam doesn't fry car wiring. As Ray shows, you need the correct add-a-fuse, so before buying your cam know what kind of fuses your car uses- most better dashcam sellers can supply what you need if you ask. I beta-test and review dashcams for 4 of the top brands (and some others too) and while these are easy to DIY a lot of people have powering issues, mostly from not knowing what they're doing, but sometimes from the car itself with CANBUS and start/stop car systems not being the same as older cars always were.
I never even knew these add-a-fuse were a thing. I always tap into the wiring behind the fuse box, and add an appropriate amperage inline fuse to the new wire.
@@grumpycarlsworld that works too but it’s nice to not cut up a new vehicle’s wiring, especially in warranty.
For something old and there’s plenty of room and slack in the wires to work go ahead.
@@mike766 that's the thing. There's nothing to "cut up" because there are usually at least a few unused fuse sockets to add a circuit.
It looks like who ever installed the electronics took a short cut and didn't care about the stuff that was no longer working!! Great job Ray keep doing what you do!!!!😀
Those little add-a-fuse danglies are super handy and much better than the old timer method of jamming a wire in with one foot of the fuse
You must have learned auto electrical from the same person I did. There's also the ran another wire to the positive side of the battery method.
@@gator2813 then you need an inline fuse, the add a circuits work great for low amperage stuff I always cut the crimp connector off the end and solder it
@@Mstauffer67 Before I saw that video I'd never seen an add a fuse. Been a while since I added anything electrical to any of my vehicles.
I'm guessing the installer and the customer were the same person. Now I have about 23 years of professional electrical work under my belt so it's obvious this was a rookie mistake, but the idea that a shop sent it without working, and the customer left the shop with all the idiot lights on and didn't do a U-turn
... hmm yeah I think the customer was at home in the garage and finally threw in the towel after they felt defeat.
agreed. It seems such a simple fix though. One fuse is fusing the new device that is attached to the wire, then the other fuse is doing the job of fusing that original fuse slot. Both fuses took turns in working when it were inserted the various (2) ways. it suggests that the connector was faulty. That being the connection which fused the original fuse slot, which in turn allowed the radio and the two 12v sockets to work.
If someone is gonna throw in the towel at such a simple deduction of the problem, they shouldnt be doing electrical DIY :D
Great info on basic electrical checks. Tbh I don't like working on things I don't know about (what was that jumper feeding???) . I would have put the 15a back in it's original spot, verified the radio n aux worked n told them to return it to upfitters. Glad you had the confidence to repair it, I'm sure the customer was very happy 🙂 . Edit: that last bit about ignorance was SPOT on 👍
I agree with you about "ignorance" rather than malice being the root. I think "lazy" plays a part as well. They learn to work the machines rather that diagnose the problems.
It's obvious that whoever did the add-on work just checked to make sure what they added worked, and never checked to see if what the work affected still worked ... it didn't. Ray, your professionalism and experience in troubleshooting, checking ALL the work and what it affects, is a lesson for all.
I don't think the added device worked either as there were no fuses in the add-on pigtail. One fuse is the original circuit and the other is the new device.
UNLESS the pigtail can be inserted upside down making the device live with no fuse in the pigtail.
They do have a direction they go. The fuse taps. While they will work either direction.. The wire is only connected on one leg of the add a fuse. It needs to go to the hot leg of the fuse panel. Otherwise, you are adding your circuit to the original fuse as well. In other words, you would be getting the hot for your add a wire from the cold side of the original fuse, so pulling your power through the original circuit fuse. On the hot leg, then both the original fuse and the new wire get power from the hot leg and pass only the current for the separate circuit through their separate fuses.
Looks more like the customer tried to do the install them self, messed up and when it didn’t work brought it round to you to fix. If it had been installed somewhere else they’d have taken it back there. Surely they wouldn’t pay for a non working installation!
Agree about ignorance. Too many shops charge for service by guys who don't know what they're doing.
I ran into this issue installing my dash cam, good thing the pigtails came with an assortment of types, I took a neighboring fuse out, compared it to the cables and that helped me pick the correct one🤷🏻♂️
Depending on how you plug it in, the added circuit could end up going through the 15A first, which means it carries the additional load before it gets to the new load.
yeah, upside down. Doesn´t harm anything. Should work just fine until you try to use a 12V fridge or a coffee maker.
i was thinking this my self and would put 7 amp fuses or 10 and 5 in depending on how it was wired
The easy way to test it is to put a fuse in only the new circuit, then plug in the Add-A-Circuit device. If the new circuit works, then that's how to plug it in. If it doesn't, swap it.
Then add the fuse for the original circuit.
That way, the new fuse carries the entire load of the new circuit, and the original fuse does not.
Orientation matters. You saw that as he turned it over. That's not something a diy guy would know.
This is an indicator that you are doing it wrong.
The fuse holder comes with instructions.
The truck's fuse box has no room for additional circuits.
The vibrating seat cover being installed has a long and varied list of "Attachments."
A lot of qualified people do not have the ability to understand what they are qualified for 🤣 😂 🤣
Thanks, Ray for providing great insight, entertainment and proof of your skill. Wish I was close, so you could look after my vehicles.
Supposedly qualified have a great day
Hey, Ray Avid watcher, rare commenter. Quick note to say thanks. This video helped me diagnose a power issue in my project car. I'd been chasing a power issue, and never considered the add-a-circuit. Your methodical troubleshooting pointed out my miss. I found the added circuit had high resistance and clearly had failed. I'll eventually hardwire with a relay and inline fuse, but replaced it for the short term. Thanks!
My grandad used to say a little knowledge can be dangerous. They THINK they know what they're doing.
FYI I learned in airplane mechanics school that a crimped connector performed with the appropriate crimp and crimper is better then a soldered connector. Due to two factors: most techs never leaned to solder (I can attest to this by experience) and solder wicking up the wire makes a hard spot that will fail if subjected to excessive vibration. Before the Rheeeeee it’s jus my 2 cents.
Roy Johnson
I agree another thing to think about if joint gets warm can "Dry Joint " Behind radio's / AC / Heater you would be surprised how Warm it gets , Whereas a crimped joint is so much better Safer and the way it should be done.
At least now I know there's a type of fuse that I haven't run into yet. Googling shows me SIX different types of blade fuses and I think I've only had to work with one. I've never seen an add-a-fuse.
I guess the last time I thought about adding a radio to a car we were still using glass fuses in in-line cases. Why do I have to be reminded of my advancing age all the time?
Because time is passing us by.
Faster than u think…. Doing this for 45 yrs. a day at a time ! LOL
Just a note Ray: You installed the add-a-fuse backwards. The "hot side" of the add-a-fuse is a single connection point across both circuits that is the opposite side of where the wire comes out. This side should be connected to the hot-side of the fuse panel. By installing it the way you did, the added circuit is literally running through BOTH fuses. If it is just a backup camera, probably won't make a difference in the long run, but if it were say, a powerful cargo lamp that drew 7 amps while the stereo was drawing 9 amps across a good heavy bass riff at high volume (not likely, but you never know), that 15 amp fuse will blow killing both circuits.
The side the wire comes out of needs to go to the fused side of the block, and the opposite (straight) side goes to the hot bar in the block.
Agreed. The add-a-fuse was installed upside down at the end. Top rail of the fuse box is powered, bottom rail goes to the devices. On an add-a-fuse, the side containing the wire is the side that goes to the device and therefore should be the side installed on the bottom rail.
I noticed that and then thought the guy doing the repair doesn’t really understand the circuit! That’s why an auto electrician is a trade in its own right!
@@gartmorn Well, he does read these comments, and comments that explain the how and why are useful, as he can learn from those.
@@GReaper absolutely, no slight intended! Just pointing out you can’t play about with electrical circuits! I was an electrical engineer before I retired but would still consult an auto electrician for more complicated automotive faults!
I didn't pay attention to him testing with the meter to see which was hot, but some automotive fuse boxes have alternating power feed sides, depending on the circuit feeding them. constant power/switched ignition/relay fed, so forth. they're like a four edged sword, never assume anything except it's sharp and pokey. 🙃
The original install evidently was done by one of those "Don't sweat the small stuff" persons. I learned a long time ago that details mean everything.
Also, with "add a fuse" adapters, I make sure that I install them in the correct position. There should be no power to the accessory down the line with no fuse install. The accessory should not work with no fuse. Otherwise, the fuse provides no protection. That is an often overlooked mistake.
Exactly. He failed to perform that test. It would've shown him that he was returning it to the customer in a defective state.
whenever i have used them in the past I have always made sure the fuse tap was not defective like the original one in the video, I did this by cont checking the fuse positions with their load/ supply sides
What I noticed, when you were flipping the add a fuse. One fuse would get power, flip it, then the other would get power. I think the add a plug is bad.
He repaced it. Must have been.
I suspect as @Cecil Jacobs says customer bought and fitted the after market accessory and could not get it working and thought they broke the car and to save face they said it was someone else.
I just started working as a production manager at a shop and I don't know tons about turning wrenches, but I just did complete a parts management course for my part of the work process. Seeing the other side of the process is invaluable and I appreciate the content you are putting out. Thank you.
Great repair. A Butt connector is a good fix for the interior especially since you used the proper crimping tool 👊🏼
After COVID, the world kinda gave up. Any kind of customer service or quality control went out the window. What's sad is if those guys go back to the shop that installed that and complain, they'll probably just say "sorry sir there's a fuse shortage". I know there are some legitimate shortages but I feel like a lot of people blame incompetence on it.
Have you noticed that there's just more defects in products? I'm sure that's what you mean also but I've stopped going to most major retailers and quit buying cheap stuff because even the expensive stuff falls apart in 2 seconds now. Let alone the cheap stuff
I think you're right. Empty shelves are too often explained by saying "It's on a ship in the harbor, that can't get unloaded." Nobody now, can be blamed for shortages that are from laziness, they just blame the 'supply shortage.' Wish I could have had an excuse like that 20 years ago when there was 1 or 2 empty spaces in the shelves.
Using an excuse as a Reason is a poor idea.
I'm often unqualified to do my job. But the crazy thing is that even when I know I'm in way over my head, I'm still way more qualified to do it than some of the other guys who are doing the same thing! It's kind of depressing.
Cheer up ...even most managers are somewhat incompetent... it's called The Peter Principle, where a person is promoted to one step beyond their level of competence. LoL
@@johngreen1907 We have that too! Our top service techs were recently promoted to management positions, completely gutting our service department!
@@fredygump5578 There you go.....so now you can relax knowing that it all doesnt matter, just go with the flow, and dont whatever you do confront any stupid ideas, just offer polite criticism once without repeating it and making an enemy. It might all be ok anyway. Lol Good luck.
As long as you take pride and work and you're honest with the people around you and the customers that's the main thing if you have the right attitude you'll learn to do it right and things will get a lot better everyday have a great day o
Look at it this way, one man's ignorance is another man's paycheck. Maybe next time the customer will not want to pay twice to get something installed and come to you to do it correctly once. Have a great day Ray. You are the kind of tech that I would love to bring my vehicle to all the time.
There's a reporter named Rob and he has a thing called the Hall of Shame. Not very many investigative journalism going on but he's one of the best at highlighting thieving scammers
You must be from the metro Detroit area I know exactly who you are talking about. I know you mean mr. rob wolchek at Fox 2 wjbk tv in Detroit. Im originally from metro Detroit myself but have relocated to Florida. And I love rob when he does the hall of shame.
@@jcc3279 I'm in Minnesota, Rob has content that floats my boat and I found him trough the search words like busting thieves or public servants.
Good comments on here regarding orientation and butt connectors. I have a butt connected wire in the engine compartment for a trailer hitch on the used van we bought. I'm going to be making corrections.
Tricky find. Direction matters A LOT on those jumpers. Also, they are current limited as stated on the box. Study the directions carefully and do some research before considering these. As noted below, using a non-critical circuit is a good idea.
I absolutely love the thorough manner you always approach what ever task you have in front of you. Your problem solving skill is one to to pass on to others. Keep up the great videos!!
He was not thorough. He installed it upside down. Now the 15 amp fuse is powering everything.
Taxation is Theft.
Love this channel even more.
what's next? a license to use my own damned toaster? it's fubar
I like that you didn't exclude the possibility of requiring a shotgun shell for the Isuzu.
I'm pretty sure he has that for "zee German autos".
@@chuckfreisinger1508 good one !
Can you charge the customer for the pigtail/add a fuse connector? If not, i'm noticing these things would add up after a while. Those things shouldn't come out of your pocket. Extra bolts, ect are one thing, but those connectors can be 5 -10 bucks at the store.
The way i have always done it for small stuff like that is, add a shop supplies fee to the bill. ( usually 5 to 10 dollars, I do 5.) Then the tech orders it on the shop account and puts the new one back in their stash to replace the one they used.
I can't speak for Ray but when I Use to be a mechanic and I had my box of extra's fuses, pigtails that is what they are extras and I wouldn't charge for something that was paid for by someone else. I would ask the previous customer if they wanted the extra parts after all they paid for them. If they decline i throw them in my spare parts bin kind of pay it forward type thing. Like for this job I would just simply exchange one "add a fuse" for another. Many bosses hate this but at the same time they understand it also helps bring back a customer when they found out they got a $1.00 part for free and not paid $10.00 for it. If i had a good spare part I would tell the customer be it from my "free" pile or the shops bone yard. If it was from the shelf or the bone yard they get charged. my own stash no charge.
Mobile soapbox on the way. Can be used for rants in a variety of locations. Can be had in all colours so long as it's rain forest green.
I'm worried about the day that I can't repair my own vehicles. I have been a vehicle engineer for over 45 years and have treated my customers like family. So no ripping people off, but now I'm getting old and just might have to start using local garages to repair my car.
Let's just say that not all repair workshops ae as good as you or I Ray.
It's my opinion that your vehicle technician should be on your Christmas card list... someone you know and trust.
I wish that I had someone that I could pass my knowledge on to, because when I die, a liberty of mechanical knowledge goes with me.
Well done, Ray. You show that not all fitters, technicians, or vehicle engineers are rip-off merchants and put a little faith back into the industry.
I had the same feeling I agree with you and unfortunately I put my vehicle in a few different shops and ended up having to straighten it out and now I start doing my own work again at 69 years old do I need to be doing it now but I've had too many things go wrong it shouldn't have happened have a great day
the dealers have a habit of ripping people off---how do i know---quoted 4000.00 dollars for a wiring harness not needed,,,what fixed it removal of a chunk of aluminum foil caught between the starter and the fan shroud{metal}
Oh ! the things we find! Estimates like that are meant to scare the customer off,,, rather than saying,,,, we can’t fix it !! LOL
I think you have left the added circuit (on that butt spliced red wire) unfused. The center rail of the fuse box is powered and since you put the wire up it is most likely powered directly through the powered rail and not through the fuse. The confirmation test would be to pull the fuse from the add-a-fuse and see if the wire still has power, if it does you need to flip it so the wire is down. SIDE NOTE: my OPINION is those add-a-fuse connectors are junk and should never be used.
I think they have a place. I used one to install a hardwire radar detector. Must more simple for a low amp draw then to run a wire to the battery through the firewall.
@@danielwaldrip like I said it's my opinion (to each their own) but there are better ways than those things to tap an existing circuit that also don't involve going through the fire wall. In fact I don't recommend going straight to the battery either (especially not without a fuse which I see all too often).
No, the fuses are tied together on only one side. Reversing the plug like Ray did will send all power thru the 15amp fuse first, then thru the second fuse to the added accessory.
I worked on a friends van that he used to tow a pop up camper. He had a tow hitch installed by a national company, starts with u. He called to ask me to look at his brakes in the van. It turns out the "pros" from U used a saddle connector for the brake circuit. When I opened the connector the blade that slides over the wires was missing. I replaced the connector with proper hook ups and all was corrected. How could a national place use a fitting that could cause a serious accident dragging a camper with no brakes. Boggles the mind. Thanks for all your great vis Ray Man.
I never use those because seen too many newer vehicles the wires to the fuse won't take that much extra load.
that shows that they never tested their installation/work.
Just use a slot that has low amp fuse in it and correctly put the fuse in the right slot of the splicer thing, if it's in the wrong slot and both fuses are not the same it will provide to high or low value fuse
If the splitter is upside down it will pull the power via the original fuse instead of it been 2 independent fuses, the extra load might blow the fuse
@@leexgx should have been an astronought ! LOL
@@fredwalker839 😂
I'm a up fitter and I just worked on one of those. electrical nightmare also didn't have a clue . after a day of testing wires all was good
Definitely looks like a self-install gone bad. I would definitely throw out that old pigtail though because power isn't going between the fuses.
most likely the original add a fuse is probably good but it was designed for standard fuses and not the mini fuses that the vehicle had. I think that Ray likely kept it in his stash for the future.
@@mikeske9777 using miniblade tap on microblade sockets shouldn't matter, it's likely just a bad fuse tap.
I added a Dash Cam and a wiring kit for said dash cam to my Hyundai Elantra. The wiring kit came with several adapters for the various fuse types like the one shown in this video. Ingenious inventions these wiring kits like this but you have to use the right type for your application.
If it is the backup camera that is feeding off those 2 runs I would actually look for an unused fuse port or tie it into the reverese circuit like it should have been.
I was thinking the same thing. The fourth fuse port is unused, but they didn't think to (or know they could) use it.
Also noted due to the ability to orientate the fuse adapter both ways. Potentially, if the new adaptor is installed the wrong way around, the power could have to go through both fuses to get to the added accessory. To test this you could install the new accessory fuse to see if it then powers the pigtail.
That exactly how he put it back. It's in the wrong way. I had a comment somewhere with a link to some diagrams.
the suspense on the 2nd fuse you added (backwards) is killing me!!!
I have a feeling that you installed that pigtail upside down.
The vehicle voltage was on the top terminal of the fuse box strip, that should connect to the 'non pigtail' side of the add a fuse, the way you have it, power is going through the 15A fuse before it goes off to the 10A fuse.
That fuse tap is bad, I've used the mini style in those before without a problem. Also it does make a difference which way it's installed. The side without the wire is your power side. If installed with the wire on the power side of the fuse, then your accessory you added runs thru both fuses and the main thru just the one, so basically if the original fuse blows you lose both circuits..
Actually the added accessory runs unfused in this configuration, not through both fuses. If the 10A fuse was removed, the added accessory would still run.
@@bendfleming no that is incorrect.. there is in no way using these taps that either could be unfused.. only the power side is connected together. If reversed, then both circuits are powered thru the main fuse.. I've fixed many that was hooked up backwards.. if a 10 amp fuse is used on the main in a reversed configuration and a 15 amp on the acc circuit then both circuits would be limited to the 10 amps combined..
@@gerrymoeller makes sense.
Butt connectors are actually better in high vibration environments than solder. I would use heat shrink though, just to make it look clean.
Best guess: a self install that went sideways. I give them props for being smart enough to bring it to you,and have you finish/fix the install
Great to see a mechanic fix the issue with their aftermarket solution rather than just replace the fuse after pulling the aftermarket systems add a fuse out. 🎉
People just don't know enough to know they don't know enough. We used to think ignorance was bliss. Now we know a good mentor is the power. We need more people out in the field using their mind and their hands than sitting behind a desk. I have done both and yes I love the air conditioning but making something from scratch with your hands there's nothing better...well maybe one thing is better but that's a whole different story.
My whole life of Love bigger and stuff out building stuff taking a block of wood steel or whatever and turn into something else that I want that I need or for somebody else I've done this my whole life and then I found out I can make money at it and make people feel good and solve their problems I've been doing it ever since up until I retired have a great day
Ray... Be sure that the adaptor is inserted the correct way... If flipped over BOTH the original circuit and the added circuit will NOT be fused or protected... It looks like you might have this problem...
Are you sure about that?
Ray you shine(pun intended)! What set you apart for those who installed that add a fuse is your integrity. You double check and triple check your work. Your work is assured before you place that check mark!!
Yup, the double checking is a big difference. This fault would have taken me a few hrs because I would have needed to know what the pigtail thingy was feeding.
Ray is dead on, the training is important but also the obsession to know ways to double check stuff.
Great video!
But he didn't check the work.
He fixed the obvious part of the install-gone-wrong.
Did he Question why the installer added a circuit to one that disables the ABS Circuit WHEN it fails?
I bet there are other 15 amp circuits right there that would be much safer to lose while driving than the one chosen.
@@truthsRsung No different than the radio or the cigarette lighter blowing the fuse.
@@CMDR_CLASSIFIED ...And that's on the Engineer who designed the Circuits, and their Supervisor, and the Manufacturer.
Cigar Lighters have been a rarity on vehicles for a long time.
Must be that the new guy slapped one on whatever circuit was "easy" because it doesn't make any sense.
What matters is that I don't get paid to make people's cars more unsafe.
Saying that the factory did something foolish doesn't disprove MY LOGIC.
There's a limitation on the time and accountability when a customer is paying a lot for labour. By using the same supply point, the supply is already verified. A better supply point would be an improvement if after testing one could be found. It wouldn't add extra dismantling work if the customer preferred to choose further diagnostic work. So its a debatable point. IMO. As a customer I would be delighted with a speedy job, and might whine that it was an upsell if more time was added.
I think this is probably the first time I’ve seen you service a box truck. Interesting video Ray!
It was likely someone who worked for this owner and he said, Oh yeah, I can install that. It's simple.
I would have tested the replacement add a fuse first before crimping the butt connector to the accessory wire.
Orientation into the fuse panel seems to be important for these.
In one direction the added accessory fuse would effectively be in series with the original fuse, in the other direction both fuses would be getting their power feed from the battery side of the fuse panel.
As for the original add a fuse, it was weird that one fuse would show power on both sides, but the other would show no power on either side. In at least one orientation, you should have power on one side of both fuses.
Wow who knew you could flip over a 15 amp fuse and get a 51 amp fuse. 😁
But only when it's located near the 710 filler cap 😅
Or a 10 amp into a 01
Only happens when the dilithium crystal's need realigned.
I thought it said "si" as in yes.
He put in a 10 & the 15 would not give you 25 amps have a great day
Hi from Australia, love watching your repairs. I have always called those fuse adaptors "Fuse Taps". I have seen more then my fair share of bad installs with those adaptors. I find it advisable to recrimp the manufacturers side of the crimp as a "just in case".
I have found "Out of box fails" where the crimps are not crimped tight enough from new.
The problem is that everything from an outside point of view seems easy when an expert does it. Good DIY requires a certain subset of skills that one cannot learn from watching a video once.
Oh yes. I work in horticulte and every kind of work we do can be shown to any completely unskilled help in five minutes. The three years of job training for the pros is all about identifying the issues and deciding on the measures to be taken.
In this particular case, the expert failed. Ray installed it backwards. And now the customer is stuck with the defect.
Wow those Isuzu box trucks haven't changed much inside since the early 90's.
For anyone else using these add-a-fuse accessories:
It really matters what orientation they are plugged in when installed. Ray leaves this installed with the lead pointing to the side of the supply in the fuse board so the new equipment is supplied by the fused side of the original circuit, so effectively double fusing it, but increasing the load on the original circuit. Possibly intentional, but it makes it more likely to blow the original circuit fuse if the new equipment overloads the circuit. Fine for an accessory circuit only but not so good if this is running other kit and disables safety functions like ABS etc.
To isolate the circuits properly, the add-a-fuse should be plugged in with the lead (indicating the load side) pointing to the load side of the fuse block, the one that doesn't have a voltage when tested open.
I was just wondering about how that thing was wired.
Surprised Ray didn't verify that the common side of the add-a-fuse was on the supply side of the fuse panel.
The again, that add-a-fuse didn't look like it had been in his junk drawer for long either. Almost like it was a setup and he purchased the correct the and threw it in there to "find" on camera.
Funny, never seen that small fuse before - but they are called "micro" fuses. The bladed ones you first tried (and was the piggy back) are "mini" fuses. Learning something every day!
(Still never seen one though)
I remember when fuses were glass see-through cartridges and if they blew out we used to stick aluminum foil from a pack of cigarettes in there ooh that's not right have a good day
@@michaelpressman7203 what, we used nails! 🤔👍😁
"Let's see what I've got. Connectors, no. Shotgun shell, maybe later.." Don't do it bro 🤣
As a side note...the "Add A Fuse" can be put in backwards...gotta find the power side that goes through the fuse to the demand side...
As much as I like your videos I would have to say in this case I think you made an error. Based in your own tests of the power and now power sides of the fuse position on the fuse board you have put the add-a-fuse is in upside down. It’s the only time I have seen you do something like that, not bad considering how many videos you turn out. 👍
I am pretty sure there are no diodes in an add-a-fuse. There is no backwards. way to put in a fuse. it either provides a connection or it doesn't.
Edit: Just figured out I made a mistake. There is a backwards way to install the add a fuse. However, unless you have a high draw accessory, you would not have an issue under normal circumstances.
I have a battery backup for the dash cam in my car, it pulls 9amps when charging. If this was on a shared circuit and install backwards, I would need to take into account the draw the device on that circuit would normally have and account for that when adding in the additional load.
When the add a fuse is installed the wrong way round, as in this case. The new additional circuit is unfused. The new out going circuit should be on the opposite side to the live side of the fusebox. The top side of the fusebox was live when tested, so the outgoing cable should be on the bottom, causing the power to go through the fuse.
@@colingooden3711 It is not unfused, it is double fused. One pin is connected to both fuses, the other pin is only connected to the bottom fuse. This is at least the cased in the Add-a-fuses I have on hand which I checked the continuity on.
I thought as much. I looked it up elsewhere. That fuse tap has to go in the right way. The tip furthest from the wire is the common and needs to go to the 12V supply side of the fuse socket.
That way, both fuses are directly connected to 12V. Either can blow and the other device still has a good fuse. If you plug the tap in backwards, the add-on fuse will be getting its power from the first fuse. If the second fuse blows, the first device still has power. If the first fuse blows, both sides will lose power.
I heard what bugged you about this - what bugs me about this is that someone installs a "new" electronic in a van and thinks to use this "add a fuse" gizmo instead of simply using the "SPARE" slot that exists in the fuse panel. What do you think they manufacturer put the spare spots there for? It's like deciding to hook up everything you own into a single extension cord and refusing instead to use the other outlet in the wall.
Not all have 'spare' slots these days. I bet very few.
Spare slots may only be energized when ignition is in accessory or run mode. If you need power at all times, you may need to tap into an existing circuit. Such was the case for my dashcam with movement sensor. The add-a-fuse is actually a pretty elegant and non-invasive solution if you don't want to be disassembling/drilling/soldering just to put something after-market in your vehicle and make it look like it belongs.
Due to ignition power.
I agree completely. Never assume malice when incompetence will also explain the data.
Wait, did you verify the load side and the powered side of the add a fuse was correct? If the add a fuse was installed upside down would it not provide fused protection? As in probing the add a fuse red wire to the connection blades to figure out the supply side and load side then ensuring it was inserted into the fuse block correctly. Otherwise wouldn't it just be run directly to the powered side and not protected by the fuse? I've never messed with that style of add a fuse so I'm not sure if it even matters but it seems like it would make a big safety difference. It may only change whether the added circuit is double fused or two parallel fuses off the fuse block supply side. I dunno.
I think determining the amp draw of the addon accessory would have been even more fundamental to ascertain the gauge of wire and appropriate fuse etc
Jammin if you’re right (sounds right, I don’t know) then the add-a-fuse would have a little warning slip of paper in the box saying “important!…be sure the tail is installed…” it probably did but no one bothered to read it.
its probably been mentioned already but I'll go ahead and say it... these ad a circuit "are" directional!!! this goes for atc, atm, micro , mini, and low profile. The prong closest to the wire is directly connected to the wire! this prong must "NOT" go into the the B+ terminal of the fuse box!!! the accessory will work when installed wrong but... it will "NOT" be protected from the fuse!!!. if a short circuit occurs there will be smoke and burnt/melted wires and usually melts the original fuse holder. don't take my word for it. grab one of these add a circuits and test the continuity without the fuse in it.
They are directional but not as unsafe as you suppose. The common pin is the one opposite the wire. What that means is that when installed reversed, as at the end of this video, the original circuit is still fused but the new circuit is fused from the laod side of the original circuit fuse, so double-fused in fact. Simply makes it more likely to blow a fuse though overloading, the short circuit protection is still there.
@@jncg2311 installing the add a circuit backwards would be exactly like jamming a wire in the 12v terminal of the fuse holder then connecting the wire to a load!!! It will supply unfused power to that load!!! It makes "no" difference if there is a fuse . The original fused circuit will be protected but the add on circuit if installed backwards "will be unprotected ". End of story
@@bensfixitpage341 I think you and I are talking about different products then. The add-a-fuse with two fuse slots, as shown in this video isn't internally connected as you describe.
With no fuses in place, there should be no power getting to the accessory lead, no matter how you connect it. No story, just how it is.
@@jncg2311 grab your ohm meter and check continuity between the end of the wire and the fuse slot closest to the wire . You will then understand that these are directional and they will "not" provide circuit protection for the add on accessory(no fuse necessary). I forgive you for not knowing how the work
@@bensfixitpage341 Okay, to prove to myself that I wasn't forgetting what I'd understood, I did this test before my previous reply to you. Sat at my desk, my going to town meter, a Fluke 87v a bit like Ray's and an unused add-a-fuse fuse tap accessory.
With the fuses removed there is no continuity from the accessory wire to either prong of the fuse holder. If I replace the fuses in the holder, there is continuity from the accessory lead to both prongs. Good.
Now pull out the fuse closest to the prongs, you will lose continuity between the accessory lead and the prong closest to the lead only.
Now replace that one and pull out the fuse furthest from the prongs and you will lose continuity to both prongs.
With that information you can draw up a single line circuit diagram for the fuse tap.
With the kit on my desk now there is no way the accessory lead can be powered without fuses installed or if either fuse blows, if installed as in this video. It is basically safe in either orientation but, in agreement with you, it has to be intlstalled the correct way for the specific installation in order to work as intended, a fuse for each load.
If yours tests differently you and I must have different products.
Love to see a bit of electrical work for a change! And a gas-powered vehicle to boot.
PS I guess the shotgun shell is for when you want the problem GONE, not fixed. 😂
@@Slugbunny perhaps it's for the parts cannon 😂
@@chrisbentleywalkingandrambling
Oh P E E T E R LOL
Ray continue been honest & hard worker is the best policy. THANK YOU!!!!!!
In the immortal words of Eric O: rip out all that aftermarket crap!
YES !
I've never seen a fuse like that before - so this is really a learning experience. Thanks for the video.
Pretty sure you have it the wrong way around. Top is the feed. So the add a fuse wire should come out the other side.
yup - pull the fuses out, and the radio and cig lighters will still run....
@@tyor99 yep - right you are.
CH you are absolutely correct. The power feed was on the top side of the fuse box. So the add a fuse wire needs to be on the bottom side of the fuse box. 😂😂😂 Ray was talking about the previous mechanic being ignorant 😂😂. The added circuit is not a fused circuit. If the new circuit ever has a short that new wire will burn to a crisp.
@@jamiepole5199 , the original circuit is fused. But the new circuit is NOT fused.
@@loneranger4175 yup - my mistake - but it's still in backwards....
Yep, I agree - ignorance, not malcontent. Well done!!
Keep anything long enough and you'll eventually use it. Wondering how long have you had that fuse holder in your toolbox?
I had a mechanic working for me who had the same mentality only to an extreme. He hardly threw anything away. When he finally quit, I filled 3 big garbage cans full of old broken parts, pieces of tape, stripped bolts, bent clips and pins, etc. It took me almost a full day to reorganize and clean the shop, which is 12x16. My new guy came in and cleaned after me and made me look like a slob. You could eat off of his workbench. He is also about 3x more productive. I understand saving a few odds and ends like Ray does, but there needs to be a limit.
Low profile mini fuse add on needed. The one they had was the mini. Tabs are different. Lead to a new powered item must
go to unpowered side of fuse box. If unsure test for continuity from red lead to either side of connector to fuse block. At
13:53 the add on jack is connected wrong for the add on wiring connection. It is unprotected by the 10 Amp fuse.
There is a lot of ignorance in the automotive repair field. Most techs are trained on the job and have to call the factory for procedural diagnosing. Something the DIY guy does not have access to in general. Today you are driving a computer on wheels.
What does that have to do with this simple diagnosis?
The first thing Ray should have done was eliminate the add a circuit and plug a known good fuse into the original slot. He probably knew this, but hey, it was clean work, the customer has to pay a minimum anyway, and the process gave him some good content to share with people to demonstrate a simple diagnostic procedure using a multimeter.
And yes, he installed the add-a-fuse upside down, and he is probably aware of that by now, and is kicking himself in the ass for making such a simple mistake.
those" add a fuse" have to be put in a certain way so the added device will get power.
I'm sorry ray but why don't people take things like this back to whom contributed to the problemo
I wonder if it was a DIY install but the owner wanted to blame someone else for their mistake?
Because it was a cash job done by the expert down the bar/pub who is cheap, then they find somebody who knows, then they pay much more. And sometime put faults on things that are really hard/impossible to find and can cause damage, they rarely tell the proper repairer the full story/truth, as in "it's probably just a loose connection etc." Been here loads in the consumer electronics and electrical insulation industries. Chop up my soap box now.
If I left my van in to have work done to it and when I went to collect it and noticed the new issues I wouldn't be leaving till they sorted it out
Hack job from the fella down the local pub
@RV Shadow Or it was their regular shop and had problems before and got fed up and are now bringing it somewhere else... and possible try to make the first shop pay the bill.
I’m fortunate the mechanic who I use is a whizz with electric stuff other mechanics send their problems to him, I’m with you why try and do something that you know nothing about it only costs you more money in the end
I had an issue with my truck, I thought the electric radiator fan was out, or a thermostat problem. I new shop opened near me and I made an appointment. He took the car in and in fifteen minutes came out and showed me the problem. A fuse, he said I didn't have any and that it would be an hour to have one delivered to the got parts store and buy one. I did. funny the thing was almost 6 bucks. sure beats a new fan motor assembly. He would not take any money either. So he got a customer now. It's an 18-year-old Santa Fe. Made my day! Money is tight, and inflation is really putting me in a spot. I retired last year. Going to find a part-time job.
Crimp >>>> solder in a vehicle.
Soldered stranded wires can/will break from vibration at the point of soldering, crimp terminals *are* the right way!
(you can use the heatshrink sort if you're worried about corrosion... or just get bare ones and adhesive heatshrink yourself)
Thank you for being a honest mechanic. 🙂
For those who will be using an "add-a-fuse": These come in different amperage ratings so be sure the one you buy is rated for the added load.
Ignorance is an adjunct of stupidity though the two are different. A smart person knows when they lack knowledge and need to learn while an ignorant person proceeds thinking they have the needed knowledge. The end effect is the same with both, but ignorance can be fixed through education while stupidity can only be fixed by death.
Unfortunately, you're overloading the circuit that you're “adding a fuse” to. These things are dangerous.
@@TheScotsmanTechReview Not in many or most cases. Fuseboxes today are usually powered by 2 or more heavy busbars which can handle more current than all the fuses combined with every optional accessory offered for the car. As long as you're tapping onto a large enough circuit you should be OK. However the fusebox is done, you're safe with smaller loads like dashcams which run at under 1A and never exceed 2A at start-up. With high loads like 10Aor more you should consult your dealer to be sure you'll be OK.
@@P_RO_ I disagree completely. Do not add additional loads to your circuit. You can try and convince yourself it's safe but as someone who has spent 10 years designing automotive harnesses and circuits, I urge you all to never do this
I agree who installed the add a fuse was very ignorant didn't even install Fuses let alone the right add a fuse @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Ray, I will never watch a single video again after your incorrect fuse installation 😡 how dare you put them in like that.
@Rainman I bets that "add-a-circuit" pigtail YOU installed is upside down. Means that the current for both original circuit and added circuit will go through the ONE (original) fuse. Not good - you did the very thing you were soap-boxing about. Several people noticed this but most said it's OK --- it is not. Their are multiple potential issues this could cause. Additionally, the internal gauge in the add-on device MAY not be sufficient when used this way.
Seeing what's in someone's tool box is always great lol, I see you too have a random shotgun shell xD
butt connectors are fine, if crimped right. I installed audio equipment for many years, and used a Klein crimper. If you look closely at a butt connector, you'll see where the split is. Don't crimp on the split; crimp so the crimper cradles the split, and the point of the crimper goes in the solid end. (PS don't use a cheap crimper!)
Didn't know we were getting a mini tool box tour. 👍
Partial REEEE you put the add a fuse in upside down. The top pin is your power source so the added 10a circuit feeds through the 15a fuse first. Double the protection for the added circuit but all the load is on the 15a fuse for both circuits.
Trying to make a buck and not knowing what they are doing is far to common
I owned 3 different Lotus Elan M100's over an 11-year period that had the truly great little 1.6L *Isuzu 4XE1 engine.* I put all kinds of boost through those engines and they just "took it." No head-gasket problems or anything. They don't build 'em like that anymore!!!
This is the kind of world 🌎 we've made for ourselves and our children, better have no enemies when the light goes out , due to the economic criss, wars and rate of unemployment I think now is the best time to invest and make more money for the future.
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At 7:25 when you are circuit checking the add-a-fuse prongs through the fuses, it swaps which fuse has continuity when you change blades, which to me indicates an internal fault to the add-a-fuse. I bet it would have worked fine if not for that internal fault
i agree espesically as mini fuses work fine in a micro fuse holder (obviously not the other way around) as the blades on the fuses are the same thickness and size, just the micro fuses are more sunken into the panel, I'm not really sure why manufacturers started using them as unlike the switch from conventional size to mini, there in't any significant space saving to be had from them
libertarians disliking this vid 😁😁
Nice to see a light , non dirty job....must be a nice change for ray