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I'm not an engine builder by profession, but I am no novice in engine building. I did had some difficulty with the first set , until I got the hang of it, in placing the circlips on the set of pistons I used for my last engine built. I did not use the stopper on the other side, just a small screwdriver and then an allen key to push the end of the circlip in place. When all in place I did a check on them with a small pipe the size/diametrer of the circlip.
Replacing simple but tiny Circlips on a Centerhousing of a MHI-TD05 Turbo can be frustrating too. But when its done you can be proud of yourself with a happiness moment.
I feel like every time you install a tricky circlip there should be a wee glass of celebratory whisky that appears before your eyes. It could also come sooner those times when struggling a bit, I wouldn't complain - Taz.
I was less than thrilled with the low tension of my circlips - just going in WAY too easy, & able to be turned in its seat with the slightest mere thumb pressure - so I stretched the diameter just a blonde hair by giving a little squeeze to the inner & outer edges of the clip with the fat part of my needlenose plier jaws, straightening the wire just enough to make a bigger circle. Way better fit now. Don't need that pin going on walkabout. Only wish the clips in my kit were a little higher quality...
The open part of the wire lock should be either in the 12 or 6 o'clock position. If it's in the 9 or 3 o'clock position the clip could be compressed from the reciprocating forces of the piston.
I disagree and here's why. The circlip is compressed into the piston and the spring tension of the circlip is what keeps it in the groove. If the circlips gap is positioned 90 degrees relative to piston travel, the clips own weight when subjected to the extreme forces exerted on the piston will work against the circlips spring tension. Without this tension, it is possible for the clip to come out of the groove. Your assertion that a force from any direction on the circlip is inconsequential is incorrect. If this where true then it would be impossible to remove the clip and that's obviously not the case. Furthermore, while it may take a rather extreme piston acceleration to unload the circlip tension enough to release the circlip from the groove, a more likely outcome would be that over time the circlip becomes fatigued by constant bending and breaks.
You're overthinking it - while you are technically correct, if it was an issue the manufacturers would specify the location. no reason not to do it like that, though, if it is a concern.
Not something I was aware of - thanks for that, something to bear in mind for the next time. Well worth a thumbs up. [edit] FWIW, the piston acc'n is greater at around TDC than BTC and the shorter the rod to stroke ratio*, the greater the difference. So, I would suggest the gap be to the bottom of the piston if that is a concern. *For true sinusoidal piston travel an infinite length conecting rod would need to be used.
I use a slightly different technique, using a fine flat screwdriver in the notch to ease the clip into the bore and groove. However one does it, take care, peoples, as it is easy to make a blood donation or have the clip spring out and get lost. Oh, and don't apply more force than needed - if you go beyond the elastic limit and deform the clip it WILL loosen, drop out and destroy the bore, if not the whole engine. Forgot, I use a bit of W&D paper to remove the sharp edges of the screwdriver blade to reduce the chance of marking the piston - might be a bit anal, admittedly. Forgot II, you can pick the jewelers' screwdrivers up at your local electronics store - down here that would be Jaycar.
Hey Gordo! I would like to thank you for often taking the time to share your own experience and knowledge via comments on the HPA channel mate! I always enjoy reading what you have to say on a new video. If you would like to, email me your shipping details I will get an HPA t-shirt in the mail for you as a way of saying 'thanks for being awesome' =) - Taz & the HPA team. support@hpacademy.com
Awesome? You obviously don't know me very well ;-) If you have an XL I would be pleased to wear it. Just trying to add some discussion points and bits and pieces I'd picked up here and there - sometimes my experiences, sometimes from others. Sometimes I'm wrong and I hope you, and the other respondents, can keep things on the straight and narrow. The bottom line being we all want our engines, regardless of spec', to hold together and perform as best they can.
Not everyone knows everything all the time Gordo and you ask some good questions too =) Email support@hpacademy.com and we'll get you sorted with an XL t-shirt in black or white (your choice, just email me to let me know). Chur! - Taz.
E-mail sent, if I did it correctly, thank you - shows how active I am when it's the first one sent since Gmail account set up in November, when Vodafone dropped their service...
Good Video Because it essential that the wire lock groove is not lubricated prior to insertion of the lock...I wish you had included your suggested steps for lube. Good effort overall Would love to see more information on Proper Fueling with Direct Injection without requiring supplemental port injection.
Give it a go and see Attila. If you find that easier then it's the right way for you but we do think this method is going to cause you less frustration by removing the chance of pushing the circlip right through before it is seated correctly - Taz.
Was doing some checking and came across a motorcycle engine tool on the Accu-products site called the "C-Clipper four stroke installation tool" for these "c" clip retainers. It looks like it could be just the thing, but is limited in gudgeon/piston/wrist pin diameters. Anyone heard of them or even tried them? [edit] Seems to be made by Bux Tools - they have a video on YT illustrating using the tool - ua-cam.com/video/lgB2WoQbt_Q/v-deo.html
Because not many hobbyists have specialised tools on hand or the budget for them noting such tools really come into their own for those doing things like this day in day out with other methods like that shown being perfectly acceptable to those only doing such tasks occasionally. We all have finite budgets and some people certainly make a little money go a LOT further than other for the same end result 😉 - Taz.
I cannot stress this enough, your technique DOES NOT WORK without scratching the everliving hell out of a 450cc piston. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER, EVER! The bulldog clip technique is nice, but I found it much easier to put the open end in first, THEN push the other end in with something soft, like a nylon mallet.
![🗜️ How to File Piston Ring Gaps [FREE LESSON]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-16eNhI3p9s/mqdefault.jpg)
![🗜️ How to File Piston Ring Gaps [FREE LESSON]](/img/tr.png)
What's the next engine build you have planned? Let us know.
🦸♂ Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/vipy79
🔧50% OFF your first engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery79
These videos by High Performance Academy are always A+. They very informative, useful and to the point. Thank you HP Academy!
Thanks John, appreciate the support and stoked you're enjoying them! - Taz.
I'm not an engine builder by profession, but I am no novice in engine building. I did had some difficulty with the first set , until I got the hang of it, in placing the circlips on the set of pistons I used for my last engine built. I did not use the stopper on the other side, just a small screwdriver and then an allen key to push the end of the circlip in place. When all in place I did a check on them with a small pipe the size/diametrer of the circlip.
Thanks for the paper clip tip. I struggled for three hours yesterday trying to get one clip in. Appreciate your knowledge.
Glad it helped!
Very nice video. Clear and concise with well-lit video.
Replacing simple but tiny Circlips on a Centerhousing of a MHI-TD05 Turbo can be frustrating too.
But when its done you can be proud of yourself with a happiness moment.
I feel like every time you install a tricky circlip there should be a wee glass of celebratory whisky that appears before your eyes. It could also come sooner those times when struggling a bit, I wouldn't complain - Taz.
Lol I literally watch this video every time I do a top end on one of my 2 strokes
haha that's awesome man! Glad it's helpful for you and hope you enjoy getting back out on the bike soon - Taz.
I was less than thrilled with the low tension of my circlips - just going in WAY too easy, & able to be turned in its seat with the slightest mere thumb pressure - so I stretched the diameter just a blonde hair by giving a little squeeze to the inner & outer edges of the clip with the fat part of my needlenose plier jaws, straightening the wire just enough to make a bigger circle. Way better fit now. Don't need that pin going on walkabout. Only wish the clips in my kit were a little higher quality...
Thank you! your video actually help me a lot~!
EXCELLENT, super informative video. Thank you.
I use a popsicle stick to help install circlip as it wont scratch anything.
Thanks for making this video very helpful and educational 👍🏽👍🏽
Glad it was helpful! Cheers R G - Taz.
The open part of the wire lock should be either in the 12 or 6 o'clock position. If it's in the 9 or 3 o'clock position the clip could be compressed from the reciprocating forces of the piston.
Shaun Blair in theory it wouldn't matter, as the circlip is held within a groove, force on any side of it would have the same effect
I disagree and here's why. The circlip is compressed into the piston and the spring tension of the circlip is what keeps it in the groove. If the circlips gap is positioned 90 degrees relative to piston travel, the clips own weight when subjected to the extreme forces exerted on the piston will work against the circlips spring tension. Without this tension, it is possible for the clip to come out of the groove. Your assertion that a force from any direction on the circlip is inconsequential is incorrect. If this where true then it would be impossible to remove the clip and that's obviously not the case. Furthermore, while it may take a rather extreme piston acceleration to unload the circlip tension enough to release the circlip from the groove, a more likely outcome would be that over time the circlip becomes fatigued by constant bending and breaks.
You're overthinking it - while you are technically correct, if it was an issue the manufacturers would specify the location. no reason not to do it like that, though, if it is a concern.
GordoWG1 WG1 Some piston manufacturers do recommend it.
Not something I was aware of - thanks for that, something to bear in mind for the next time. Well worth a thumbs up.
[edit] FWIW, the piston acc'n is greater at around TDC than BTC and the shorter the rod to stroke ratio*, the greater the difference. So, I would suggest the gap be to the bottom of the piston if that is a concern.
*For true sinusoidal piston travel an infinite length conecting rod would need to be used.
Kram Loxx are awesome, i would use those for circlips. So easy to get in imo and they won't move in a circular motion.
These wire locks will not rotate either ;) - Taz.
If you orders Wiseco piston: goodluck getting that pin in with out bending it
I use a slightly different technique, using a fine flat screwdriver in the notch to ease the clip into the bore and groove.
However one does it, take care, peoples, as it is easy to make a blood donation or have the clip spring out and get lost.
Oh, and don't apply more force than needed - if you go beyond the elastic limit and deform the clip it WILL loosen, drop out and destroy the bore, if not the whole engine.
Forgot, I use a bit of W&D paper to remove the sharp edges of the screwdriver blade to reduce the chance of marking the piston - might be a bit anal, admittedly.
Forgot II, you can pick the jewelers' screwdrivers up at your local electronics store - down here that would be Jaycar.
Hey Gordo! I would like to thank you for often taking the time to share your own experience and knowledge via comments on the HPA channel mate! I always enjoy reading what you have to say on a new video. If you would like to, email me your shipping details I will get an HPA t-shirt in the mail for you as a way of saying 'thanks for being awesome' =) - Taz & the HPA team. support@hpacademy.com
Awesome? You obviously don't know me very well ;-) If you have an XL I would be pleased to wear it.
Just trying to add some discussion points and bits and pieces I'd picked up here and there - sometimes my experiences, sometimes from others. Sometimes I'm wrong and I hope you, and the other respondents, can keep things on the straight and narrow.
The bottom line being we all want our engines, regardless of spec', to hold together and perform as best they can.
Not everyone knows everything all the time Gordo and you ask some good questions too =) Email support@hpacademy.com and we'll get you sorted with an XL t-shirt in black or white (your choice, just email me to let me know).
Chur! - Taz.
E-mail sent, if I did it correctly, thank you - shows how active I am when it's the first one sent since Gmail account set up in November, when Vodafone dropped their service...
Just arrived, thank you - and it is a very good fit :-)
This where ya get skin in the game haha
He certainly makes it look easier than I make it look 😂 - Taz.
@@hpa101 my thumbs hurt from an unusually hard set of circlips on a set of CP pistons the other night 😂
No pain no gain! So long as they're still attached you're doin good work I reckon 😂
@@hpa101 two Dyno session so far no pistons shoot out haha. Good times
Good Video
Because it essential that the wire lock groove is not lubricated prior to insertion of the lock...I wish you had included your suggested steps for lube.
Good effort overall
Would love to see more information on Proper Fueling with Direct Injection without requiring supplemental port injection.
Not lubricated why?
Are all wrist pins floating? Or some pressed
Is there a specific way the opening of the Clip should remain once’s installed in the groove?For example g opening part facing up?
참 좋은것 많네요
Yeah I used a small screwdriver I didn't have to worry about marrying the Piston I stuck it into my thumb
If I took a shot for every time he said “wire lock” I’d have alcohol poisoning
Challenge accepted - Taz.
hi what is the name of moly oil that u use?
thanks
What's this sorcery?! install of a rod before it's attached to the crank? My world is flat :/ great tip tho with the clip HPA team.
Brandon B you Subaru owners are crazy flat earthers lol
Hi how to choose or determine a Recess and a Non-Recess Piston ?
Wouldn't it be easier to start with one circlip instead of the bulldog clip?
Attila Pap It's a lot harder to install a wire lock with out the wrist pin as backer so you put the clip in, in a second, and it holds it.
Give it a go and see Attila. If you find that easier then it's the right way for you but we do think this method is going to cause you less frustration by removing the chance of pushing the circlip right through before it is seated correctly - Taz.
High Performance Academy I see, thanks!
I would expect it to be a concern that the bore in the piston gets scratched, or otherwise damaged, which might compromise the life of the engine?
Was doing some checking and came across a motorcycle engine tool on the Accu-products site called the "C-Clipper four stroke installation tool" for these "c" clip retainers.
It looks like it could be just the thing, but is limited in gudgeon/piston/wrist pin diameters.
Anyone heard of them or even tried them?
[edit] Seems to be made by Bux Tools - they have a video on YT illustrating using the tool - ua-cam.com/video/lgB2WoQbt_Q/v-deo.html
Why use a screwdriver when there is literally a special tool for circpin installation !?
Because not many hobbyists have specialised tools on hand or the budget for them noting such tools really come into their own for those doing things like this day in day out with other methods like that shown being perfectly acceptable to those only doing such tasks occasionally. We all have finite budgets and some people certainly make a little money go a LOT further than other for the same end result 😉 - Taz.
I cannot stress this enough, your technique DOES NOT WORK without scratching the everliving hell out of a 450cc piston. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER, EVER! The bulldog clip technique is nice, but I found it much easier to put the open end in first, THEN push the other end in with something soft, like a nylon mallet.
You should be fearful of a man who installs a wrist pin circlip without safety googles on lol
I would be more fearful of the guy that has circlips flying out left right and center to be honest! =P - Taz.
I didn't know youtube allows porn huh
Just this specific niche - Taz.
@@hpa101 can u make a video on wiring I have obd2 h22a8 from a prelude I want to put it in my 2001 ej9 civic which is also obd2