great job ive got this loco and funnily enough my ones chimney came of to, used to think the old graham farish models were well made and were good quality mechanisms in them
Hi, thanks for your comments and glad you liked the video. Yes, GF locos are quite robust and run well when looked after (can be a bit noisy); getting parts is much easier for GF than some of the other makes.Cheers, JL
Very nice. The prototype, of course, is the 3F 'Jinty', one of the most common locos on the LMS. Generally they were painted black. And they turned up all over the LMS, mostly used for freight work and shunting, but they certainly did also pull minor passenger services. It's good to see your work on these little N gauge locos. I've got a GWR pannier tank that's never run since I got it, and I'm hoping I may find some guidance in one of your videos as to how to try to get it going.
Hi again, thank for looking in and for your useful information. I have posted two videos on the GF 94XX locos which, hopefully, you may find useful. Please let me know, one way or the other. It would be interesting to hear that your Pannier was up and running! Take care. Cheers, Jim L
@@SoRTs6233 Sadly not. I just came back from the workshop after working on it. Watching your videos was very useful, and did give me the guidance that I needed to get it apart, and check it out, without losing parts. But I could never get the armature to turn under power at all. I used a meter to check it, and all of the poles seemed to be continuous ok (this was a 5-pole motor). But it just wouldn't turn. I think the main problem is that the motor bearings are shot - it looks as if those little plastic bearings have almost melted down at some point. I can turn the armature by hand, but it doesn't feel free, and it doesn't move at all when I apply power to the brushes. So I've given up on it again for now (I'd basically given up on it before). I didn't even re-assemble it, since I couldn't get the motor to turn. I just put all of the parts in a box. It has those annoying Rapido couplings with the little springs, which are a real pain in the behind to get back in place as you're trying to put the base plate back on. I would have done that if I could get the motor working... but otherwise there seems no point. It doesn't help that I'm in Canada, so getting parts is hard - I'd probably have to pay £40 in shipping to get spare bearings, which is really as much as the loco is worth.
@@kleedhamhobby Those nylon bearings are prone to melting if the armature shaft overheats. I tend to replace them as a matter of course. Check out www.brlines.co.uk for replacement part numbers (don't know what postage will be to Canada). If you like, use my email (in the ABOUT tab in my channel) and post photos of the loco. See if I can help. All the best, Jim L
@@SoRTs6233 I keep trying to reply here, and my reply keeps disappearing. I think it must be because I'm trying to say that the URL you gave now redirects to a different one, and UA-cam won't allow that other URL. Anyway, thanks for the tip. I was able to order the bearings from there. The part # is GF0103. The bearings are only 63p a pair. Shipping to Canada was around eight pounds. So I ordered three sets of bearings for around ten pounds (might as well get a couple extra). Hopefully when the bearings get here they'll fix the problem.
I picked up a complete one of these locos a few days ago. It was filthy. I managed to make it run, but not at slow speeds. How did you clean up all these parts before the assembly in this video? Do I need to clean the motor commutator and brushes?
Clean the commutator definitely. I use a cotton bud with metal polish,like Brasso. Other parts can be cleaned with warm water and washing up liquid. Hope this helps. Thanks for looking. Take care, Jim L
Great video thanks for sharing, these are great little locos, I have one, runs pretty quick but good early GF
Great video
Amazing what you can do with a load of parts .
And it runs sweet .
I personally like the way you do your videos .
Thanks Martin, appreciate the comments.
great job ive got this loco and funnily enough my ones chimney came of to, used to think the old graham farish models were well made and were good quality mechanisms in them
Hi, thanks for your comments and glad you liked the video. Yes, GF locos are quite robust and run well when looked after (can be a bit noisy); getting parts is much easier for GF than some of the other makes.Cheers, JL
Very nice. The prototype, of course, is the 3F 'Jinty', one of the most common locos on the LMS. Generally they were painted black. And they turned up all over the LMS, mostly used for freight work and shunting, but they certainly did also pull minor passenger services. It's good to see your work on these little N gauge locos. I've got a GWR pannier tank that's never run since I got it, and I'm hoping I may find some guidance in one of your videos as to how to try to get it going.
Hi again, thank for looking in and for your useful information. I have posted two videos on the GF 94XX locos which, hopefully, you may find useful. Please let me know, one way or the other. It would be interesting to hear that your Pannier was up and running! Take care. Cheers, Jim L
@@SoRTs6233 Sadly not. I just came back from the workshop after working on it. Watching your videos was very useful, and did give me the guidance that I needed to get it apart, and check it out, without losing parts. But I could never get the armature to turn under power at all. I used a meter to check it, and all of the poles seemed to be continuous ok (this was a 5-pole motor). But it just wouldn't turn. I think the main problem is that the motor bearings are shot - it looks as if those little plastic bearings have almost melted down at some point. I can turn the armature by hand, but it doesn't feel free, and it doesn't move at all when I apply power to the brushes. So I've given up on it again for now (I'd basically given up on it before). I didn't even re-assemble it, since I couldn't get the motor to turn. I just put all of the parts in a box. It has those annoying Rapido couplings with the little springs, which are a real pain in the behind to get back in place as you're trying to put the base plate back on. I would have done that if I could get the motor working... but otherwise there seems no point. It doesn't help that I'm in Canada, so getting parts is hard - I'd probably have to pay £40 in shipping to get spare bearings, which is really as much as the loco is worth.
@@kleedhamhobby Those nylon bearings are prone to melting if the armature shaft overheats. I tend to replace them as a matter of course. Check out www.brlines.co.uk for replacement part numbers (don't know what postage will be to Canada). If you like, use my email (in the ABOUT tab in my channel) and post photos of the loco. See if I can help. All the best, Jim L
@@SoRTs6233 I keep trying to reply here, and my reply keeps disappearing. I think it must be because I'm trying to say that the URL you gave now redirects to a different one, and UA-cam won't allow that other URL. Anyway, thanks for the tip. I was able to order the bearings from there. The part # is GF0103. The bearings are only 63p a pair. Shipping to Canada was around eight pounds. So I ordered three sets of bearings for around ten pounds (might as well get a couple extra). Hopefully when the bearings get here they'll fix the problem.
I picked up a complete one of these locos a few days ago. It was filthy. I managed to make it run, but not at slow speeds. How did you clean up all these parts before the assembly in this video? Do I need to clean the motor commutator and brushes?
Clean the commutator definitely. I use a cotton bud with metal polish,like Brasso. Other parts can be cleaned with warm water and washing up liquid. Hope this helps.
Thanks for looking. Take care, Jim L
@@SoRTs6233 Thanks. I'll give it a go today.
.....and don’t forget to oil up as you go ....🤦🏼♂️