My 98 jetta tdi ahu never had working radiator fans. Light tune kerma chip and p520 nozzles. Drove it for many summers like 10 yrs. With no problems over heating in pa/md/wv area. Now the motor sits as the body rotted out. That motor is going in my dunebuggy still back and forth on mtdi or etdi. I bought another 98 jetta tdi that run as my daily driver. One of the many reasons i love these motors.
Great info. Thank you for taking the time with all your input. Just a question and do a follow up with the muffler oem mounts, the reason is I also have a Ahu full setup as 1.9eTDI. “e for Electronic Control. As far as the muffler mounting, since the engine is rubber mounted, the muffler than should be hard mounted to the engine. Used stronger and thicker mounting plates. I also have a .457 r&p transaxle setup, but have a dk model and changed my 3rd and 4th gear to a 1.14 (3rd) and .70 (4th). The reason I am telling you this is I can cruise at 85 to 90 with no problems. I am thinking on changing the 3rd & 4th gears to transition from 3rd to 4th for a better mountain grade climb. I feel like 3rd winds out too soon and 4th than rpm drops to low to maintain that smooth rpm transition. Will wait till I get new 15 or 16 inch wheels to play with different tire od sizes that could make a difference. Just a added note with my setup. Chipped the ecu and also installed larger injector nozzles with a ko3/ko4 hybrid turbo. Getting between 34 to 36 mpg highway miles. I would like to see you purchase a Full camper Westy and watch your videos about your experiences and changes. Good luck to you and keep them coming. Last thing that was done was added a in dash AC system. Still need the rear one added due to living near Phx AZ. Thank you again.
Try the wheels (17s are sweet, check out my wheel vid), and if that doesnt do it and you do change your 4th and 5th maybe ill buy them off you. As for the exhaust mounts, this thing had the rubber mounts originally it seems...im going to research it some more. I dont see myself doing a full camper, just too damned heavy, my vans light and lean and mean. Ive thought of adding a pop top, but that means a huge permanent hole chopped in the top, plus you cant pop the damned things anywhere without totally giving away your stealth, theyre basically for camgrounds only, places i never go....
Defo use an isolator block on exhaust,i have a 1y in mine and it has isolator blocks on both mounts as oem.looking doing this to mine if the 1y goes bang in the future..love the vids..keep up the good work..
So glad to hear your happy with the setup! I have been anxiously waiting to hear an update. I have been trying to figure out what to do with my syncro doka and its 1.6td. Due to cost I have swayed away from things like the 2.0 cr diesel kits at $16k, and have been looking at getting a 1.9 ahu from quality german, however i am wondering if you have a parts list of things that should be replaced. Most are in decent condition, and require new peripherals. Do you have a list of pieces you replaced to add to the long block? what is new, and what can stay sort of thing. thanks again for the update. I agree on the tranny, I have a euro AHF with final drive 5.43 and 3rd at 1.225 4th at .780. No idea as to do with that. haha. any help is appriciated!
Cool, thanks man. Look, for the price youd pay for a running motor from Quality German you could buy a complete running Jetta TDI and it'd have everything you need, most notably the peripherals, which will absolutely kill you if you go and try to source them individually. Were i doing it again id go buy something like this... seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/d/1998-vw-jetta-tdi/6392523763.html ...then buy a new MTDI pump from Karl or Giles, put sweet new injectors on it, and id be down the road for under 5 grand. It may have high miles but you drive it first and assess its condition, blowby, oil burning, etc, compression if you can, and if its all tight go for it. The real trick is doing a super tight, clean install and having a super solid fuel system. Once you have that rock solid foundation, putting in a new longblock sometime down the road is easy and fairly cheap. But i bet a properly set up and cared for used AHU is going to last a lot longer than youd suspect.... In my case, i bought a Jetta with a bad motor and a used AHU longblock from a trusted source, Kirk at North Westy. I took literally every peripheral piece from the Jetta and cleaned/polished/restored it. I dont remember the whole list of what i bought new, but it included the obvious stuff like a full timing belt kit, gaskets, and such. I used the Jetta turbo as it was (it had been recently rebuilt) and the Jetta alternator too. If i think of anything else ill add it later. As for your transmission, youre definitely going to have to do something with that. Im seriously considering a Weddle 4:13 R&P and as high as they make for my top gears....from what ive seen i think itd be real hard to overgear a properly set up AHU. And dont forget an air filter that gives you all the flow you need and more. Dont go with those low flow Donaldsons...look at the CFM specs, i think the STOCK Jetta needed 210 CFM, so a modded AHU in a Vanagon is going to need more. Airflow is a huge factor, dont be the guy who underestimates it. Good luck on your swap...
Some people with a Ford Powerstroke 7.3 have said that they get a few more MPG if they run a hotter thermostat. In some cases, engines have a lower than ideal coolant temperature because high coolant temperatures tend to lead to higher NOx emission. Here is an example of someone running a hotter than normal thermostat on a 7.3 PSD: www.dieselsite.com/dieselsite203thermostat.aspx
Thanks for your video blog on the AHU Swap. I have the possibility of also doing this swap into my ‘82 1.6. With your current AHU setup and transmission, what is your highway speeds?
Thought i talked about that in detail in the vids, but ive got a 4.57 R&P, a .77 5th, and 215/60 17 tires, which put me around 3000 rpm at 70mph. 3000 rpm should be comfortable for the AHU, which has a factory redline of 4500, and everyone says they run at 3000 all day long, but personally I dont like it there, all of my mechanical instincts tell me the motor doesnt like it at all, seems to be screaming back there, so i keep it under 65, where the motor is much smoother and happier. Im gearing up to a .70 5th and maybe a 4.13 R&P as soon as i get around to it.
sorry I've not researched this, but in general, is it having (or finding) a diesel Vanagon and converting to the AHU the way to go, or.. any (gas) Vanagon. Great video..
I dont know much about converting a gas vanagon to diesel, but from what ive heard its just a matter of getting the diesel specific parts, the conversion parts needed. They are all available, its just a matter of cost. I think Thomas at Quality German has the original VW diesel parts, give him a call. Plus, people also seem to really like FAS conversion kits: www.foreignautosupply.com/parts-accessories/67-in-line-4-cylinder-vanagon-engine-conversion-basic-install-kit/#.WtzA8RZlCEc But obviously its way easier to just get a factory diesel van....especially an 83, if you find an 83 buy it immediately because they are super rare and putting an AHU in one is super easy.
You said an 83'.. There are a couple 0f 82' (diesels) around. Any reason the 83' is better..? It's the only two years they made them, just curious. Thanks.!
The 83s are basically gas vanagons with a few diesel specific parts...the 82s are oddballs with a lot of oddball parts only they had, like the radiator for example: If the radiator goes bad on an 82 you have to convert it over to use a gasser radiator. I think if it were me, they are so oddball that id consider just getting a gas van and converting it. But maybe im wrong and the 82s arent so bad. Gotta do the research
Hi I have a question about your transmission. I have a 82 diesel, and your video have be a great help. My van top speed is like 60-65 mph. What transmission are you using? Gas 4 speed and what do you think of go westy 5 speed for this application?
Mines the DX 5 speed with a 4.57 ring & pinion. But there are too many unknowns in your build to give you a decent answer for what trans to use, like what motor you have, what size tires, etc
Then if its set up right you have plenty of power. But i dont know what exact transmission you have, need the code. You have to get out of those tiny tires too
jtlachappelle I’m not sure what transmission but it was a 1982 factory 1.6 diesel. I’ve built it from watching your videos. It suck not being able to go over 65 mph. What size tire do you recommend? My suspension is stock.
Go look on the transmission, from under the van, and youll see a flat spot with some letters stamped there. Should be two letters. Mine is DX. Im suspecting yours has something like a .85 4th and a 5.86 R&P, which means you almost shouldn’t even be doing 65 in that thing...your RPM is really high at that speed. You need to regear that transmission. At least a new 4.57 R&P and probably new 3rd and 4th gears too. Then talk to Chris at T3 Technique about new wheels and tires. Im not sure what will fit with your suspension, but he does.
Hey and cheers from the sacramento valley. Great videos. I have a 1982 and is diesel as well . I dont think your 5 speed is a stock tranny but a swap. The 1982 I have has the same tranny as an aircooled. Is yours a 1983? Any way just a question on the tranny. I have the AAZ swap in mine and so the flexible exhaust brackets you were questioning about are part of the stock exhaust and I sourced mine from the samba.com for a great price, like 10 bucks each or less. They as well will eliminate the vibration from the hard mount exhaust and eliminate the cracks you are experiencing. If you come by this way drop me a line and I can give you some great back roads to see some of my area.
Nah mines an 83.5...those and all the 83s came with that 5 speed by all accounts. Mines a DX 094, yours is probably a DZ 091. On the exhaust, i did something different. I stayed with the hard mounting but fabbed a cross brace that goes from the passenger side mount to the block, which eliminates lateral movement/vibration. Looking closer i saw i had a moderate lateral harmonic vibration at certain rpms, i think thats what had been cracking things. Ive been driving the hell out of it trying to get it to break, all still rock solid, well see how it holds. As for the valley, already my favorite place. Particularly the yuba. Im there as often as i can be, next time ill let you know when and we can have a bus jamboree in the parking lot
For about a second....long enough to realize i dont want another system of hoses and water and a pump to worry about failing, cluttering everything up. Going a2a soon, designing a clean underbelly setup with a scoop, ultra low profile stainless pipe setup, simple, clutter free
Like i think i said in the vid, absolutely as high as you can possibly get. My 4.57 R&P with .77 5th isnt high enough, and i doubt putting in the .70 5th, which is about the highest you can buy, would be enough either.
@@jtlachappelle Ahh the 3.88 is only available for type 1's missed that...Just part of the process trying to figure out what's needed and available for TDI conversion .. Not trying to go fast just trying to keep the TDI at lowest rpm possible better mileage happy engine..
Im trying to go fast. Fast down the highway and with good economy. I want to do 70 and 75 at a reasonable rpm like a normal car. These things were built on the old VW model...tiny weak motor in a huge heavy chassis, geared down to shit so itll go down the road, barely. TDI changes that, bigtime, maybe someday Weddle or someone else will fill the need for a proper transmission to get these up to speed and turn them into normal vehicles
its only 100 hp.. don't get carried away. in the beatle.. it is turning 2250 rpm at 65.you cannot expect it to do this in a car that much heavier.. except on the dead flats.Redline is 4000 rpm.. and even at 80 + is isn't going 3000 rpm in the bug.If you use waterboxer gearing... you should be in about the right spot.Be interesting to see how the shift curves in the automatic work with the tdi.What was the redline for the water boxer.. and the torque peak rpm ?set your gearing to run the engine somewhere in the peak torque curve at your target cruise speed.. not below and not above ! the 52 or 60 hp 1.6L engine was working very hard.. a lot like a 40 hp bus did.sweet at 55.. cruise at 62.. flat out at 67. no matter how big the engine,if the redline is the same or close ( 3600 and 4000) it is going to spin the same speed with the bigger engine. there are 4 final drive ratios.. you should be able to achieve a comfortable (not busy) cruise at 65... and busier at 70... asking for more is silly, with a camper inside. where you get the love is accelerating, hill climbing, and higher altitutdes, where the NA engine went phuuut.
Redline on the 98 Jetta TDI, where this AHU came from, is 4500. But when this thing is at 3200 all of my mechanical instincts tell me it doesnt like it, to back off. So Im still going to raise the gearing, going .70 5th, as soon as I can. By the way we're at almost 35k miles, still no intercooler, still fantastic. Maybe ill do a 35k mile update vid.
jtlachappelle I’ve got 400,000 miles on a mTDI. Transmission of from a supercharged corrado so very short 5th gear. it has no problems turning 4000rpm. Has crossed the country loaded down many times. I think you will find that even without a turbo the engine is very happy. The best thing you can do is convert to a vnt turbo from a Mk4. Bolts on. You can essentially turn the turbo off to zero boost on the highway and get crazy good mpg. Or make it have full boost in neutral.
Diesels make less waste heat than a gas engine of the same power output ( higher efficiency !) so there is no way in a hell a healthy diesel will overheat in a vanagon.. just those long tubes to the radiator add to the cooling .. so you wonder how anybody could overheat one, properly set up.??
Well thats the point....all of those overheating issues we always see, I bet its just a simple matter of the cooling system being improperly bled, clogged radiator, etc. Simple shit. That plus the ridiculously restrictive air filters everyone always insists on running, 120 CFM Donaldsons.....
My 98 jetta tdi ahu never had working radiator fans. Light tune kerma chip and p520 nozzles. Drove it for many summers like 10 yrs. With no problems over heating in pa/md/wv area. Now the motor sits as the body rotted out. That motor is going in my dunebuggy still back and forth on mtdi or etdi. I bought another 98 jetta tdi that run as my daily driver. One of the many reasons i love these motors.
Fantastic videos! You inspired me to convert my 1990 T25 to a 1Z unit - very nearly finished
Cool, thanks man. Hope they help
Great info. Thank you for taking the time with all your input. Just a question and do a follow up with the muffler oem mounts, the reason is I also have a Ahu full setup as 1.9eTDI. “e for Electronic Control. As far as the muffler mounting, since the engine is rubber mounted, the muffler than should be hard mounted to the engine. Used stronger and thicker mounting plates. I also have a .457 r&p transaxle setup, but have a dk model and changed my 3rd and 4th gear to a 1.14 (3rd) and .70 (4th). The reason I am telling you this is I can cruise at 85 to 90 with no problems. I am thinking on changing the 3rd & 4th gears to transition from 3rd to 4th for a better mountain grade climb. I feel like 3rd winds out too soon and 4th than rpm drops to low to maintain that smooth rpm transition. Will wait till I get new 15 or 16 inch wheels to play with different tire od sizes that could make a difference. Just a added note with my setup. Chipped the ecu and also installed larger injector nozzles with a ko3/ko4 hybrid turbo. Getting between 34 to 36 mpg highway miles. I would like to see you purchase a Full camper Westy and watch your videos about your experiences and changes. Good luck to you and keep them coming. Last thing that was done was added a in dash AC system. Still need the rear one added due to living near Phx AZ. Thank you again.
Try the wheels (17s are sweet, check out my wheel vid), and if that doesnt do it and you do change your 4th and 5th maybe ill buy them off you. As for the exhaust mounts, this thing had the rubber mounts originally it seems...im going to research it some more. I dont see myself doing a full camper, just too damned heavy, my vans light and lean and mean. Ive thought of adding a pop top, but that means a huge permanent hole chopped in the top, plus you cant pop the damned things anywhere without totally giving away your stealth, theyre basically for camgrounds only, places i never go....
Defo use an isolator block on exhaust,i have a 1y in mine and it has isolator blocks on both mounts as oem.looking doing this to mine if the 1y goes bang in the future..love the vids..keep up the good work..
awesome! great to see the update too. looking forward to more followups
So glad to hear your happy with the setup! I have been anxiously waiting to hear an update. I have been trying to figure out what to do with my syncro doka and its 1.6td. Due to cost I have swayed away from things like the 2.0 cr diesel kits at $16k, and have been looking at getting a 1.9 ahu from quality german, however i am wondering if you have a parts list of things that should be replaced. Most are in decent condition, and require new peripherals. Do you have a list of pieces you replaced to add to the long block? what is new, and what can stay sort of thing. thanks again for the update. I agree on the tranny, I have a euro AHF with final drive 5.43 and 3rd at 1.225 4th at .780. No idea as to do with that. haha. any help is appriciated!
Cool, thanks man.
Look, for the price youd pay for a running motor from Quality German you could buy a complete running Jetta TDI and it'd have everything you need, most notably the peripherals, which will absolutely kill you if you go and try to source them individually. Were i doing it again id go buy something like this...
seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/d/1998-vw-jetta-tdi/6392523763.html
...then buy a new MTDI pump from Karl or Giles, put sweet new injectors on it, and id be down the road for under 5 grand. It may have high miles but you drive it first and assess its condition, blowby, oil burning, etc, compression if you can, and if its all tight go for it.
The real trick is doing a super tight, clean install and having a super solid fuel system. Once you have that rock solid foundation, putting in a new longblock sometime down the road is easy and fairly cheap. But i bet a properly set up and cared for used AHU is going to last a lot longer than youd suspect....
In my case, i bought a Jetta with a bad motor and a used AHU longblock from a trusted source, Kirk at North Westy. I took literally every peripheral piece from the Jetta and cleaned/polished/restored it.
I dont remember the whole list of what i bought new, but it included the obvious stuff like a full timing belt kit, gaskets, and such. I used the Jetta turbo as it was (it had been recently rebuilt) and the Jetta alternator too.
If i think of anything else ill add it later.
As for your transmission, youre definitely going to have to do something with that. Im seriously considering a Weddle 4:13 R&P and as high as they make for my top gears....from what ive seen i think itd be real hard to overgear a properly set up AHU.
And dont forget an air filter that gives you all the flow you need and more. Dont go with those low flow Donaldsons...look at the CFM specs, i think the STOCK Jetta needed 210 CFM, so a modded AHU in a Vanagon is going to need more. Airflow is a huge factor, dont be the guy who underestimates it.
Good luck on your swap...
My ALH is 20 years old.. has 190K miles on it.. and nary every a leak from the injection pump.
Some people with a Ford Powerstroke 7.3 have said that they get a few more MPG if they run a hotter thermostat. In some cases, engines have a lower than ideal coolant temperature because high coolant temperatures tend to lead to higher NOx emission.
Here is an example of someone running a hotter than normal thermostat on a 7.3 PSD:
www.dieselsite.com/dieselsite203thermostat.aspx
Hello, what was your work on the fuel filler modification from gas to diesel? did you drill it out?
Mine’s a factory diesel remember…..
Thanks for your video blog on the AHU Swap. I have the possibility of also doing this swap into my ‘82 1.6. With your current AHU setup and transmission, what is your highway speeds?
Thought i talked about that in detail in the vids, but ive got a 4.57 R&P, a .77 5th, and 215/60 17 tires, which put me around 3000 rpm at 70mph.
3000 rpm should be comfortable for the AHU, which has a factory redline of 4500, and everyone says they run at 3000 all day long, but personally I dont like it there, all of my mechanical instincts tell me the motor doesnt like it at all, seems to be screaming back there, so i keep it under 65, where the motor is much smoother and happier.
Im gearing up to a .70 5th and maybe a 4.13 R&P as soon as i get around to it.
the ALH will produce peak torque at 1750 rpm on up 2700... so lugging it seems insane ~!
sorry I've not researched this, but in general, is it having (or finding) a diesel Vanagon and converting to the AHU the way to go, or.. any (gas) Vanagon. Great video..
I dont know much about converting a gas vanagon to diesel, but from what ive heard its just a matter of getting the diesel specific parts, the conversion parts needed. They are all available, its just a matter of cost. I think Thomas at Quality German has the original VW diesel parts, give him a call. Plus, people also seem to really like FAS conversion kits:
www.foreignautosupply.com/parts-accessories/67-in-line-4-cylinder-vanagon-engine-conversion-basic-install-kit/#.WtzA8RZlCEc
But obviously its way easier to just get a factory diesel van....especially an 83, if you find an 83 buy it immediately because they are super rare and putting an AHU in one is super easy.
You said an 83'.. There are a couple 0f 82' (diesels) around. Any reason the 83' is better..? It's the only two years they made them, just curious. Thanks.!
The 83s are basically gas vanagons with a few diesel specific parts...the 82s are oddballs with a lot of oddball parts only they had, like the radiator for example: If the radiator goes bad on an 82 you have to convert it over to use a gasser radiator.
I think if it were me, they are so oddball that id consider just getting a gas van and converting it. But maybe im wrong and the 82s arent so bad. Gotta do the research
Thanks for that... It makes perfect sense..!!
Hi I have a question about your transmission. I have a 82 diesel, and your video have be a great help. My van top speed is like 60-65 mph. What transmission are you using?
Gas 4 speed and what do you think of go westy 5 speed for this application?
Mines the DX 5 speed with a 4.57 ring & pinion. But there are too many unknowns in your build to give you a decent answer for what trans to use, like what motor you have, what size tires, etc
jtlachappelle
I have the ahu mtdi like yours and stock tires. Tire are 185r14
Then if its set up right you have plenty of power. But i dont know what exact transmission you have, need the code. You have to get out of those tiny tires too
jtlachappelle
I’m not sure what transmission but it was a 1982 factory 1.6 diesel. I’ve built it from watching your videos. It suck not being able to go over 65 mph. What size tire do you recommend? My suspension is stock.
Go look on the transmission, from under the van, and youll see a flat spot with some letters stamped there. Should be two letters. Mine is DX.
Im suspecting yours has something like a .85 4th and a 5.86 R&P, which means you almost shouldn’t even be doing 65 in that thing...your RPM is really high at that speed. You need to regear that transmission. At least a new 4.57 R&P and probably new 3rd and 4th gears too.
Then talk to Chris at T3 Technique about new wheels and tires. Im not sure what will fit with your suspension, but he does.
Hey and cheers from the sacramento valley. Great videos. I have a 1982 and is diesel as well . I dont think your 5 speed is a stock tranny but a swap. The 1982 I have has the same tranny as an aircooled. Is yours a 1983? Any way just a question on the tranny. I have the AAZ swap in mine and so the flexible exhaust brackets you were questioning about are part of the stock exhaust and I sourced mine from the samba.com for a great price, like 10 bucks each or less. They as well will eliminate the vibration from the hard mount exhaust and eliminate the cracks you are experiencing. If you come by this way drop me a line and I can give you some great back roads to see some of my area.
Nah mines an 83.5...those and all the 83s came with that 5 speed by all accounts. Mines a DX 094, yours is probably a DZ 091.
On the exhaust, i did something different. I stayed with the hard mounting but fabbed a cross brace that goes from the passenger side mount to the block, which eliminates lateral movement/vibration. Looking closer i saw i had a moderate lateral harmonic vibration at certain rpms, i think thats what had been cracking things. Ive been driving the hell out of it trying to get it to break, all still rock solid, well see how it holds.
As for the valley, already my favorite place. Particularly the yuba. Im there as often as i can be, next time ill let you know when and we can have a bus jamboree in the parking lot
Have you thought about an air to water intercooler setup for it?
For about a second....long enough to realize i dont want another system of hoses and water and a pump to worry about failing, cluttering everything up. Going a2a soon, designing a clean underbelly setup with a scoop, ultra low profile stainless pipe setup, simple, clutter free
Now that you have put on some miles what Transmission gearing for R&P and 4th and 5th would you go with ?
Like i think i said in the vid, absolutely as high as you can possibly get. My 4.57 R&P with .77 5th isnt high enough, and i doubt putting in the .70 5th, which is about the highest you can buy, would be enough either.
@@jtlachappelle Do you think the 3.88 R&P would do with stock gears ?
What 3.88 R&P? Doesnt exist. 4.13 is the highest available. But that would be great if it did, as long as you had the power to pull it
@@jtlachappelle Ahh the 3.88 is only available for type 1's missed that...Just part of the process trying to figure out what's needed and available for TDI conversion .. Not trying to go fast just trying to keep the TDI at lowest rpm possible better mileage happy engine..
Im trying to go fast. Fast down the highway and with good economy. I want to do 70 and 75 at a reasonable rpm like a normal car.
These things were built on the old VW model...tiny weak motor in a huge heavy chassis, geared down to shit so itll go down the road, barely. TDI changes that, bigtime, maybe someday Weddle or someone else will fill the need for a proper transmission to get these up to speed and turn them into normal vehicles
What did you do for trans gear ratio
Put the camera in the car and take us for a ride ~!
its only 100 hp.. don't get carried away. in the beatle.. it is turning 2250 rpm at 65.you cannot expect it to do this in a car that much heavier.. except on the dead flats.Redline is 4000 rpm.. and even at 80 + is isn't going 3000 rpm in the bug.If you use waterboxer gearing... you should be in about the right spot.Be interesting to see how the shift curves in the automatic work with the tdi.What was the redline for the water boxer.. and the torque peak rpm ?set your gearing to run the engine somewhere in the peak torque curve at your target cruise speed.. not below and not above ! the 52 or 60 hp 1.6L engine was working very hard.. a lot like a 40 hp bus did.sweet at 55.. cruise at 62.. flat out at 67. no matter how big the engine,if the redline is the same or close ( 3600 and 4000) it is going to spin the same speed with the bigger engine. there are 4 final drive ratios.. you should be able to achieve a comfortable (not busy) cruise at 65... and busier at 70... asking for more is silly, with a camper inside. where you get the love is accelerating, hill climbing, and higher altitutdes, where the NA engine went phuuut.
Redline on the 98 Jetta TDI, where this AHU came from, is 4500. But when this thing is at 3200 all of my mechanical instincts tell me it doesnt like it, to back off. So Im still going to raise the gearing, going .70 5th, as soon as I can. By the way we're at almost 35k miles, still no intercooler, still fantastic. Maybe ill do a 35k mile update vid.
jtlachappelle
I’ve got 400,000 miles on a mTDI.
Transmission of from a supercharged corrado so very short 5th gear.
it has no problems turning 4000rpm.
Has crossed the country loaded down many times.
I think you will find that even without a turbo the engine is very happy.
The best thing you can do is convert to a vnt turbo from a Mk4.
Bolts on.
You can essentially turn the turbo off to zero boost on the highway and get crazy good mpg.
Or make it have full boost in neutral.
@@jtlachappelle 35k update!!
You mean 65k update. Coming soon
Diesels make less waste heat than a gas engine of the same power output ( higher efficiency !) so there is no way in a hell a healthy diesel will overheat in a vanagon.. just those long tubes to the radiator add to the cooling .. so you wonder how anybody could overheat one, properly set up.??
Well thats the point....all of those overheating issues we always see, I bet its just a simple matter of the cooling system being improperly bled, clogged radiator, etc. Simple shit. That plus the ridiculously restrictive air filters everyone always insists on running, 120 CFM Donaldsons.....
K and N mythology..;.== hah hah hah. like vw cant engineer the air system !