During my testing of the HRM-10 the voltage was very accurate. The only thing they need to change in the manual is the 0V-100V. It actually cuts off at 50mv and wont measure lower. Not a big deal since it’s not a volt meter and was accurate within spec compared to my other internal resistance testers. I actually like it.
I would like to see “how low we can go” on both voltage and resistance and still be accurate. I partly wonder how much the impedance of the source affects the minimum amount of voltage measured. I would assume the source needs some sort of conductive response, otherwise the device thinks it’s finding an open circuit.
The HRM-10 is quite a contrast to how badly their oscilloscope performed. I’ve got the GC-01 Geiger counter, and it isn’t too bad. The GC-01 appears to use a Russian gas tube. It is hard to mess up a Geiger Counter as long as the tube voltage is set correctly for appropriate sensitivity, all you’ve got to do is to count pulses. The GC-01 gives count rate as well as converting into several common dose rate values. I leave a GC-01 running for curiosity’s sake. I can tell when there’s solar flare because the alarm will trip more often when I have it set just above normal background count rate.
Thanks for your, as usual, thorough review. I think I'll get one to explore its low resistance measuring capability. Your repair videos of Bertan HV and electrophoresis machines gave me ideas and needed guidance to solve my devices issues. I hope you find another instrument that you'd like to share your repair or building process.
I have the Fnirsi and it's displayed values are in good correlation with my other battery testers. I don't however understand the principle of the Kelvin probes. Is it the frequency that makes the difference between connecting them directly and connecting them through the battery pole?
There is a better option for flat-top cells. I use Kelvin dual-prong probes. Each pen has two sharp, gold-plated pogo pins that are closely spaced. At the other end is a fixed-spacing pair of banana plugs for red and black. All I have to do is clip the FNIRISI alligators in the open position to these two plugs. They fit very well in the pass-thru receptacle side of the banana plug end. I'm sure you have the same sort of probes somewhere.
what is the lowest tolerances it will do on the ohm, is it down to 10 micro ohm res? If i recall, ain't it through the screen you enter on these modern Fnirsi LCD meters. you peel of the plastic front to access screws underneath but it ain't as straight forward as screws in the back. thx for the vid.. user calibration....good to see.
Yea this one. is the one I got. Electric motorcycle/bicycle battery is either 72Vn ( 100V covers this without OL)... 96s DCV is another good nominal ( 120VDC cover this without Over Limit) ... very common. I will be comparing it to a 16 bit 32s pair of Revo DPL8s PL chargers on .xls logging 10 hz. It shows five digits after the zero on teh ACIR logs. Decimal accuracy of the DPL8s calibration is to +/- 1mA Measurement accuracy: Voltage resolution: 78uV (16 bit) Voltage tolerance: +/- 6mV
I suspect the center blue rectangle in the center of the back contains your key for disassembly. If you press on the label, do you feel a soft spot? Usually a label doubles as an anti-tamper device. Another trick to finding screws without peeling feet is a small smooth magnet, put it nearby and it will be attracted to any screws.
FNIRSI makes their cabinets really difficult to open. I have the little Geiger counter in what appears to be a yellow version of this case. To get it open, you have to remove four screws in the corners, peel off the rubber bumper, and it looks like there is also a screw under the sticker on the back. I decided to put my desire to do a teardown aside because it didn’t appear it would be possible to open the unit without destroying the sticker and losing the warranty.
Very interesting. Question: There is a Rel function (button) for cable calibration. I think you didn't use it for resistor measurement. 4-wire method is very exact.
@@guateque1718 It is a very solid meter but those pogo stick probes are something a blessing and a curse, it would be great if it had both clips and pogo sticks. In my country the YR is more expensive than the FNIRSI.
![[BRAND NEW] FNIRSI 2C23T ⭐ 2CH Oscilloscope + Multimeter + Function Generator ⭐ Wow!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U-rgURreOuk/mqdefault.jpg)
During my testing of the HRM-10 the voltage was very accurate. The only thing they need to change in the manual is the 0V-100V. It actually cuts off at 50mv and wont measure lower. Not a big deal since it’s not a volt meter and was accurate within spec compared to my other internal resistance testers. I actually like it.
I would like to see “how low we can go” on both voltage and resistance and still be accurate. I partly wonder how much the impedance of the source affects the minimum amount of voltage measured. I would assume the source needs some sort of conductive response, otherwise the device thinks it’s finding an open circuit.
Thank you. I have been disappointed by fnirsi several times but this tester sure seems to do what it says it can do.
The HRM-10 is quite a contrast to how badly their oscilloscope performed. I’ve got the GC-01 Geiger counter, and it isn’t too bad. The GC-01 appears to use a Russian gas tube. It is hard to mess up a Geiger Counter as long as the tube voltage is set correctly for appropriate sensitivity, all you’ve got to do is to count pulses. The GC-01 gives count rate as well as converting into several common dose rate values. I leave a GC-01 running for curiosity’s sake. I can tell when there’s solar flare because the alarm will trip more often when I have it set just above normal background count rate.
Thanks for your, as usual, thorough review. I think I'll get one to explore its low resistance measuring capability.
Your repair videos of Bertan HV and electrophoresis machines gave me ideas and needed guidance to solve my devices issues. I hope you find another instrument that you'd like to share your repair or building process.
I have the Fnirsi and it's displayed values are in good correlation with my other battery testers. I don't however understand the principle of the Kelvin probes. Is it the frequency that makes the difference between connecting them directly and connecting them through the battery pole?
There is a better option for flat-top cells. I use Kelvin dual-prong probes. Each pen has two sharp, gold-plated pogo pins that are closely spaced. At the other end is a fixed-spacing pair of banana plugs for red and black. All I have to do is clip the FNIRISI alligators in the open position to these two plugs. They fit very well in the pass-thru receptacle side of the banana plug end. I'm sure you have the same sort of probes somewhere.
thank you very much It was a good video😊
Nice video thank you.
OMG you get them gratis, I get jealous!
what is the lowest tolerances it will do on the ohm, is it down to 10 micro ohm res?
If i recall, ain't it through the screen you enter on these modern Fnirsi LCD meters. you peel of the plastic front to access screws underneath but it ain't as straight forward as screws in the back.
thx for the vid..
user calibration....good to see.
Yea this one. is the one I got.
Electric motorcycle/bicycle battery is either 72Vn ( 100V covers this without OL)... 96s DCV is another good nominal ( 120VDC cover this without Over Limit) ... very common.
I will be comparing it to a 16 bit 32s pair of Revo DPL8s PL chargers on .xls logging 10 hz. It shows five digits after the zero on teh ACIR logs. Decimal accuracy of the DPL8s calibration is to +/- 1mA
Measurement accuracy:
Voltage resolution: 78uV (16 bit)
Voltage tolerance: +/- 6mV
I suspect the center blue rectangle in the center of the back contains your key for disassembly. If you press on the label, do you feel a soft spot? Usually a label doubles as an anti-tamper device. Another trick to finding screws without peeling feet is a small smooth magnet, put it nearby and it will be attracted to any screws.
I've seen in another video that you can actually pop off the front panel with a spudger and then underneath you see screws in the four corners.
@@Peter-rt3tuThat makes a lot of sense. Nice way to conceal screws, almost like a typical boot does.
Can be used for capacitor internal resistance measurement too?
Yes. The limitation is that the measurement frequency is fixed.
FNIRSI makes their cabinets really difficult to open. I have the little Geiger counter in what appears to be a yellow version of this case. To get it open, you have to remove four screws in the corners, peel off the rubber bumper, and it looks like there is also a screw under the sticker on the back. I decided to put my desire to do a teardown aside because it didn’t appear it would be possible to open the unit without destroying the sticker and losing the warranty.
Very interesting. Question: There is a Rel function (button) for cable calibration. I think you didn't use it for resistor measurement. 4-wire method is very exact.
Mine turns on but doesn’t work/ measure
what is this and why would i need it .
I wonder how effective this would be evaluating the goodness of a dc power supply.
Very cool. As I asked a question to myself... You answered it! You read my mind.
I was so upset when I saw that the FNIRSI hit the market, because I've got the YR1035+
What's wrong with the YR?
@@guateque1718 The screen and the probes 😂
@@ciprianwinerElectronicManiac I have the YR on my list. Hmmm might have to look at other options.
@@guateque1718 It is a very solid meter but those pogo stick probes are something a blessing and a curse, it would be great if it had both clips and pogo sticks. In my country the YR is more expensive than the FNIRSI.
@@ciprianwinerElectronicManiac it's the opposite here. Fnirsi is a premium import brand here.
Well done review, Metrology Masta' ! Thanks Kerry, always enjoy your explorations. - JRH
I am quite happy with my HRM-10. I have had it for several months and rely on it regularly. Thanks, Kerry, for confirming my results! Cheers!
Good day, I would like to ask if it is possible to measure a 12V 185Ah traction battery with this device. Thank you