Any way you could drop the part numbers for the strut mount nuts, the lower control arm bolt/nut, and the upper control arm ball joint nut/bolt? The part number you listed for the strut mount nuts are also incorrect. The 89 and 90 are part numbers for upper and lower foam rings.
An annoying squeak from the ball joint on the lower control arm where the fork attaches on my 2014 F15 X5. I have a new part for over 2 yrs, but never installed it. As a temporary hack, I inject some motor oil with a syringe into the boot. Once the oil reached the metal-to-metal contact, the squeak was gone. No tear in the boot, so no rust. Probably just some original grease rubbed away from the metal parts. Removing that big bolt from the fork and ball joint from the knuckle is intimidating. Thanks for the torque specs and reminding me to torque at ride height when I decide to replace.
No doubt brother Good hack with the oil injection, as grease often dries out and or separates, especially in very hot climates. Hang a grease gun vertically on a wall near a bench in a hot garage and you’ll see this principle in action. Then when it fails to distribute while the suspension is moving with very little travel and very repetitively on the same spot, then we have the squeaking. Nice hack, but maybe clean the area and apply a little bit of some high-quality silicone like hondabond to keep it in extra long-term. another good hack with ball joints is to spray them with AT-205, it is a polymer seal rejuvenator, meant for engine oil, but I’ve used it on my boat, bellows, bushings and ball joint boots for years, it really helps out with the rubber under the vehicle lasting much longer especially in a dry climate like here in Southern California
I'd first injected a silicon spray, but it was too thin and wore off quickly. The ball joint is poorly designed IMO. Its actually upside down. The ball part and joint part is on the top, so grease will eventually melt downwards, thus leaving exposed metal-to-metal. Ideally, injecting something like Super Lube Silicone Lube would be best. I know that WD40 and any petroleum-based produce will dry out rubber parts. I usually soak all rubber boots, suspending air bags, and bushings with a silicon spray using a straw whenever I'm done with working under the car. I'll give At-205 a try.
Any way you could drop the part numbers for the strut mount nuts, the lower control arm bolt/nut, and the upper control arm ball joint nut/bolt? The part number you listed for the strut mount nuts are also incorrect. The 89 and 90 are part numbers for upper and lower foam rings.
Thank you Sir. Salute
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An annoying squeak from the ball joint on the lower control arm where the fork attaches on my 2014 F15 X5. I have a new part for over 2 yrs, but never installed it. As a temporary hack, I inject some motor oil with a syringe into the boot. Once the oil reached the metal-to-metal contact, the squeak was gone. No tear in the boot, so no rust. Probably just some original grease rubbed away from the metal parts. Removing that big bolt from the fork and ball joint from the knuckle is intimidating. Thanks for the torque specs and reminding me to torque at ride height when I decide to replace.
No doubt brother
Good hack with the oil injection, as grease often dries out and or separates, especially in very hot climates. Hang a grease gun vertically on a wall near a bench in a hot garage and you’ll see this principle in action. Then when it fails to distribute while the suspension is moving with very little travel and very repetitively on the same spot, then we have the squeaking. Nice hack, but maybe clean the area and apply a little bit of some high-quality silicone like hondabond to keep it in extra long-term. another good hack with ball joints is to spray them with AT-205, it is a polymer seal rejuvenator, meant for engine oil, but I’ve used it on my boat, bellows, bushings and ball joint boots for years, it really helps out with the rubber under the vehicle lasting much longer especially in a dry climate like here in Southern California
I'd first injected a silicon spray, but it was too thin and wore off quickly. The ball joint is poorly designed IMO. Its actually upside down. The ball part and joint part is on the top, so grease will eventually melt downwards, thus leaving exposed metal-to-metal. Ideally, injecting something like Super Lube Silicone Lube would be best. I know that WD40 and any petroleum-based produce will dry out rubber parts. I usually soak all rubber boots, suspending air bags, and bushings with a silicon spray using a straw whenever I'm done with working under the car. I'll give At-205 a try.
I did these a while back was the best thing I did
Same here, very noticeable improvement in the drive quality, thanks for watching and commenting friend!
I made a mistake on the passenger side strut assembly, had to correct it after, can you find it?