Olympus Cameras Have The Best JPEG Engine
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2020
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There are some secret sauce in Olympus JPEG in camera processing, many reviewers including large sites like DPReview has praised Olympus since many years ago for getting the JPEG right, and even went as far as claiming other manufacturers can learn a thing or two from Olympus. I share some of the interesting facts about Olympus JPEG, featuring Fine Detail Processing to achieve greater image sharpness and mitigate Moire problems, adaptive sharpening algorithm based on lens attached, sharpness loss compensation for diffraction and many more innovative JPEG goodness that squeezes the best out of your Olympus cameras. I also share some tips on how to optimize Olympus JPEG files. Even if you are a RAW shooter, you may want to pay attention because JPEG in camera can affect your photography workflow too, even if you shoot purely RAW.
0:42 - How understanding camera JPEG can improve RAW shooting?
1:53 - When and why shoot JPEG?
2:43 - Why is Olympus JPEG Superior?
7:01 - Optimize Olympus JPEG
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#breakfreewitholympus #olympusinspired
Peter Forsgård (fellow Olympus Visionary from Finland) has also very recently made a video on Olympus JPEG. Believe me, we did not plan this, it was a pure coincidence, I have made this video at least more than 2 weeks ago. If you have not seen Peter's video, do hop over to his channel and you may learn a thing or two there!
Great minds do think alike indeed! 8-D
Worth watching both Peter and your videos on this - best of both worlds. As a RAW only shooter, this is quite a refreshing approach to add some variety into my shots. Great inspirational video Robin - Thanks.
i like Peters video as yours. both of you are great
You, Peter Fosgard and Rob Trek - my "gold trio" :)
I was thinking that Fujifilm has a best camera JPEG especially with their film simulators. Olympus JPEG are really good but Fujifilm is better
You and Peter are the guys I go to on all things Olympus. You do a very good job on the subject matters of your vlog chapters. Keep it up.
I love Olympus colors, and that’s one of the many reasons why I stick with them. Keep new cameras and lenses coming!
Thank you Robin. I shoot Panasonic and Sony and still I learn so much from your videos. It's like listening to an old friend with similar interests. Jack
Another great tips Robin! Your blog is the reason why I bought an Olympus camera. This was before you had a UA-cam channel. And the first thing I did when I received my camera was follow your advise on setting it up on how to get very good jpeg results. Cheers!
Great video Robin, well done. Not just a straight techy review, but from an experienced end user and pro which makes all the difference with your comments.
Thanks Bob, I am a photographer and I earn a living from my shoots/jobs, so yeah being practical is important to me, and I ensure I can deliver my explanation as clearly and simply as I can.
Very good tipps, thank you Robin! I've changed now the noise filter in "low" and the jpeg in "large super fine" or I will set RAW & LSF. Stay safe! I am looking forward to your next videos!
Thanks Andreas, glad you found some of the tips useful.
Great video as always Robin! Agree - the Olympus natural jpeg profile is special. One of the photographers I respect calls it “filmic.” Like a classic film, the look never gets old or goes out of style. I have found jpegs are also great for burst sports photography - they speed up the camera (vs. RAW or RAW+jpeg) and if you use settings similar to yours, you have almost no or no post-processing after the game or event.
I own two Panasonic bodies (G85 and now G9 Mark II) and recently picked up an Olympus PEN E-P5. All I can say is wow. This camera is from 2013 and yet I love the JPEG's coming out of it. I usually shoot in super fine JPEG + RAW, but rarely do I need to even use my RAW files! I love the images from my Panasonic bodies too, but Olympus just seems to have its own unique look as well!
I really enjoy your channel. I unashamedly shoot jpegs all the time. Now that I’m using an aps-c Fujifilm X100V, I’m even more confident in the quality of my jpeg photos.
Thanks Robin, I love my OMD 1 ii and have learned so much from you.
hi robin , wonderful and extremly helpful
Thanks Robin, awesome tips!
Thanks a lot for this video. As always very instructive and useful...
Thanks much for more education on how to get the most from my Olympus camera.
Enjoy your informative no-frill videos. This one is no different. "SuperFine" is certainly going to be implemented in my camera. Thanks again!
Thanks for your tips I find them very helpful
I shoot raw and jpeg, and often use the raws. But there's a lot of pleasure to be had in shooting jpeg, especially b&w (love doing this with my PEN F), and focusing more on getting good composition and exposure in the first place.
PEN-F allows a whole world of fine-tuning for black and white and color profile, it is insane!
Thank you Robin for a very informative video. You should consider doing a video expanding on jpg WB. As you stated, when shooting jpg it is very important to get the WB right as it is one parameter that can not be easily changed in post. Explaining how to perform a custom WB and use of kelvin options will enhance the jpg photographer's tool kit. Thank you again.
I really like Olympus and Fujifilm jpeg.
Great color science!
I shoot jpeg only
Olympus JPEG rocks
@@robinwong but Olympus cameras don’t have a film she simulators like Provia, Eterna and etc
As always Robin, such a pleasure to hear and activate your tips... I hadn't realised there was an LSF setting for jpgs on my old
EM-1...there is now! Together with other settings you mentioned, I've rolled off a dozen or so long distance images and am looking forward to seeing the jpg results. Another point, regarding focussing, I set this for both manual and auto.... I'm of the old school from my SLR film days when 'auto' didn't exist, so I still prefer manual focussing.... but there are so many occasions, especially for long distances, when auto is better.... maybe I should be seeing an optician!!! ...Anyway, thanks again for another great movie.
Glad I can share the tips and you have found them useful. Not many people know about the LSF setting, it is hidden too deeply and almost impossible to find if no one tells you. Olympus hides a lot of things. Hence I have a lot of content to continue making videos in this channel.
@@robinwong Funny that I found it quickly because I hate image compression, so I went looking for it early!
Thanks Robin!
WOW.............Fantastic informative video !!!!!
Can you tell Olympus to make a small 10mm f2 prime? The only reason I can't buy into the system is because the 12mm is too tight for me and I don't want a fish eye. Every other camera system has ultra wide autofocus primes.
I put sharpness +1, and I play with the curve: +4 shadow, -5 highlight, midtone +1. Like you said, personal preference 🙂
When I used the E-5, some of ten years ago, I wondered how the camera's default JPGs were better than those generated by Photoshop. Now I understand why.
Best photo teacher on UA-cam and beyond
Let me add that I read and reread
Fineneger on Light in the “ old days “
It’s all light Robin do a book for those of us who are transferring to digital yes I am way behind times lol
Very helpful, thank you
More excellent work Robin,thank you.
Thanks Gary!
I bought an Olympus tg 620, a pocket camera, because I knew I would get shots I would otherwise miss, aside from edge vigneting it is an amazing little camera.
The best Olympus JPG options are found in the Pen-F with that magic Color/Mono dial.
As a raw shooter, I've set all my cameras to save an additional JPEG in medium size. This gives me something to share immediately (via the OI Share app) and a benchmark for my raw editing. I prefer noise reduction on low, because that is not too aggressive and I believe that this helps the JPEG algorithm to be more efficient. Otherwise, I either had to accept large files (fine or super fine) or have implicit noise reduction by the JPEG engine.
I’m an amateur photographer that shoots in raw. I shoot Olympus with Olympus/OM system glass, and honestly I just love the “natural-style” jpegs I get out of my camera. Even when I process my RAW photos, my adjustments are extremely minor. Maybe this is just a sign that I suck as a photographer, but I love how real to life the Olympus Jpegs look.
no, you're not sucks. Olympus and Fuji's JPEG really are superior.
Interesting video!
Wow, learned a lot from this. Thanks for this. Did not even know there were different JPEGs, and the JPEG could do so much. (Can I ask which microphone you are using.in this video? The sound is very good.)
I always shoot RAW, when i can. But, even back into the Heyday of 2 MP, 3 MP Compact Cameras, i do really loved the Output from my Olympus Gear. It was the same with my old Oly C5050, C8080...even i shooted RAW, but sometimes i needed a JPG, for instance selling Stuff on eBay, and no Time, Lust to deal here with RAW.
Good tips, Robin. I think I'll go back to JPEG for all my informal family shots. Question: I use auto WB all the time and I find it works very well. But many others recommend that if you shoot JPEG, you should set the appropriate WB ahead of time for best accuracy? (It's a pain, because I almost always forget to set it back.)
Thanks for the kind words. The auto white balance engine should work fine 99% of the time. You will know if you see some issues, and when you do then it is time to use custom white balance to correct the colors.
Thanks!
Thanks!!!
Hello Robin
Thanks to this video I've discovered my Pen F and OMD mark 1 had a factory set
noise to standard, I just changed it to off, is it normal for the factory to set
it to standard ?
And tank you for your channel !
Ken
Olympus have given features in their bodies not present in other brands. I am only using the mark I EM-1, what more with the current versions? Maximize all these features and learning sets in as well create better images.
Nice explain, what are the video capture possibilities for the om- D1- III ? Can it shoot HDR 10 or Dolby+ video?
I'm not a professional photographer. I started my photography hobby with affordable point and shoot films camera then when my budget grows up i finally bought DSLRs cameras. I never had the budget to purchase the software for postprocessing RAWS and i didn't nowadays. I only shoot JPEG because they are much faster for transferring them from camera to my harddisk and are much smaller. This is my family photos not something for making money for living. Honestly i have not the time to sit around processing 100s of images from Raw to Jpeg just for killing the time and for fun. I shoot then i check if not good enough (i'm not difficult) I will shoot it again and again till i have the photo i need. With practice you will become better in understanding your camera and the exposer. With experience you will pick the right aperture and shutter speed and iso without much of trouble.
For now i quiet the DSLR WORLD and only shooting with the smartphone for the practicality and for the image quality too close to DSLR and good enough for me. 😉
Robin, you briefly mentioned the WB fine tune Green setting regarding a magenta cast. I shoot flat products in an LED illuminated white box. Sometimes my output is just a hair too red to suit my client. I start with a custom WB using a professional WB card. Would you suggest using WB fine tune to dial back on the red? If so, does increasing the green subdue the red?
Also, I notice that in normal outdoor shooting (flowers usually), using the NORMAL setting, my EM5 ii crushes the reds especially in bright sunlight. I find that even in raw, I can't get good detail from red flowers.
I have experimented with different settings and am finding that using "muted colors" with +1 in saturation is working better for me.
I'd welcome your thoughts. Or anyone else's thoughts.
I also shoot Sony APSC cameras; I find the the jpegs somewhat lifeless. I have found that I prefer the EM5 ii jpegs much better.
Yes I see s lot of reds rendered too pink from my EM10 ii. Just some shades. I will try your setting using muted colours.
Do these special features apply to the E-M10 III? Thank you for your great videos!!
They are all there but at a different position in the menu to what he is showing here on the EM-1. Set jpg SF quality is at is at F setting in the cog menu and Noise filter is at D1. The rest are all in the control panel selectable by pressing the button next the the on/off lever
Hi Robin is it different to have jpeg from camera compare to have it from Olympus workspace with a RAW exported as a jpeg ? I tend to see a slight difference but not 100% certain.
Hello. Do I understand correctly that the jpg setting (SF/MSF/LSF) does not effect the raw file?
i have this olympus pen ep5 camera for years now but since olympus is no longer available in Malaysia.. i dont know where i can send n repair my olympus now😢
If it compared to Lumix GX85, which one is more superior on JPEG? I have Lumix GX85 and little bit upset of its skin tone, and consider to switch to EM10 Mark III. Need your advice. Thank you.
Im new to the OMD camera and I took advice on shooting raw, and was dissapointed to see my pictures change and lose their colors when uploaded to the laptop. Is there a way I can convert the pictures in my cameras gallery back to Jpeg and reupload the pictures I was seeing when I took them on my laptop?
Hi Robin thanks for yours excelents videos. What do yo think about the option of warm color in the menu? I have a Pen F and I prefer to have it desconected.
Keep Warm Color on or off works only in extremely warm lighting (candlelight, etc). It is a personal preference. You should decide which works for you. Some people prefer it on, some off. No right or wrong.
Would you say their jpegs are up to par with Fuji jpegs ?
Hi, can you make me how to use c1 c2 c3 mine is ome 1 mark iii.
Really nice to know that accurate color is a priority. Would be great if you could photograph a color chart and have the camera calibrate itself to that standard. Do you know if the same internal processing happens with video? Also, does the distortion and chromatic aberration processing only happen with Olympus lenses, or can the camera do with with Panasonic lenses as well?
Hi Robin,
I find the jpg engine not oke for portaits: the skin of caucasian people is to red. Have you come across this also? I noticed it on the EM10 and also on the EM1. When ik shoot raw this isn't an issue only with jpg. The standard suggestion I get to fight this issue is: play with the whitebalance. That doens't really solve it. Do you have any suggestions?
Please suggest me an Olympus mirror less for still and video, I am a beginner.
Color Creator is on my F2. I use it all the time. My Canon has nothing like it. Olympus UI is far superior.
4:3 vs 3:2 ..how to make choice ..comment from all are welcome ....thanks !
Hi Robin, the adaptive lens sharpening applies only to Olympus lens only or also Panasonic lens too?
Of course, only Olympus.
Robin Wong I expected that but was hoping for a different answer. 😂
I have an Olympus and a full frame Nikon Z6. The Olympus is a much smarter camera while the Nikon is for brute force.
Good tips! The ability of a camera to shoot nice OOC jpgs is very important...for some trips I'll shoot 1000-2000 images. It's just not practical to spend say 20 minutes each for raw processing. Good OOC jpgs also allow cameras to compete with smartphones which people love for the convenience. I'll add some additional tips here that you didn't mention.... 1) Turn off "Keep colors warm". 2) Yes, i-enhance is a bit much...but there is a clever trick to using this and not getting bland/flat images. Simple change i-enhance to low...it looks great...especially for landscape shots. 3) For some macro shots the flash can produce harsh shadows. I've found gradation auto helps a lot with my macro photography. For everything else I don't use gradation though. 4) Some of the scene modes are fun to play with (like beach/snow/etc..) 5) For landscape shots Olympus tends to produce very bright vibrant jpgs (way more than Nikon). Sometimes these are too bright...but it's a myth that you can't do any post-processing on jpgs. Minor tweaks actually look great...for slightly over-exposed jpgs, Olympus jpgs respond well to dehaze...for slightly under-exposed jpgs the conventional exposure slider works well.
Thanks Aaron for sharing more tips. However, I must comment that keep warm color on or off is a very subjective preference, some prefer the warm color, as seen faithfully in real life, some prefer to kill it off completely. Depending on what kind if photography you do (poeple, or no people, lighting conditions, etc) I won't be so quick to recommend turning it off.
Honestly, I have been shooting JPEG only due to software and hardware limitations for many years. That means that I have had to pay special attention to proper exposure and JPEG processing settings. Now I have been experimenting with editing RAW files from my OM-1 for several months...and I don't get it. There's plenty of bandwidth in Olympus SF for my needs.
👍
What does LSF stand for snd what should the noise filter be w this setting??? Low or high?? Thank you sir
It’s the Large Super Fine jpeg setting. I think Robin's recommendation is that the noise filter should be turned off for all jpeg settings.
@@AndG463 thanks
I don't think Olympus jpeg engine is so good. Yes, corrections are being applied directly in the camera, but that is now the case with almost all manufacturers. But as a Olympus and Panasonic shooter, there are several things I'm not fond of on Olympus cameras. First, sharpness is way too agressive and large radius. Images all look oversharpened and have that "digital look". And fine detail is lost in the process. You could reduce sharpness, but the setting doesn't affect the large radius sharpening but only fine sharpening. And that brings me to the second issue: the settings only go from -2 to +2, with very coarse changes. Panasonic cameras go from -5 to +5 to chose the perfect amount. Regarding saturation for example, the 0 setting is too much for my taste, and -1 is too little.
Another thing I'm not fond of is auto white balance under artificial lighting. You can either have very cold results with "keep auto WB warm" off, or very warm results with the setting on. The later Panasonic cameras produced much better results under the same conditions.
That is not to say I don't like Olympus cameras, I just bought an E-M5.3 recently and I really like it, mostly, but the jpeg processing seems a good generation behind the best competition. Panasonic had awful colors at the time of the E-M5.1, but now they have come a long way and have actually beaten Olympus in this regard, in my opinion. Anyway, thank you for your videos, they are always a joy to watch :)
The more I shoot photos, the more I feel that shooting in raw is not necessary (for serious shooters)! Why do we need to post -editing and shoot in raw? It is just because the cameras cannot fully deliver what we want! If a camera can be customized and deliver the output to 90% or more of what a photographer want, why bother to editing in computers again? Nowadays, the digital cameras are computers in fact! Why not make all the adjustment in the cameras?
Thank you Robin, This helps me to decide if M43 jpg's can be improved. I am looking towards aps-c, but I would rather stay with M43.
I personally believe Olympus produces the best optimized JPEG output
@@robinwong Yes, from what I can see, the jpg output is very good from Olympus, but it tends to look over sharpened. Because of this, I develop from the RAW file. I would like the jpg to look good enough so that I do not have to do so many adjustments in post. APS-C and FF jpg's tend to look less processed (when pixel peeping) IMO.
@@V8rgr8 Try a recent Panasonic: they have a much more natural looking processing in my opinion, with very fine detail and sharpening. Color are slightly different, but I like them very much too.
@@JeanV1986 Thanks Jean, which Lumix do you recommend?
@@stanmorinaka4551 it really depends on what you're after. If you want the best stills camera for the money, the G9 is hard to beat, but it is quite a beast (in size). The G90 is also good, but it is almost as expensive as the G9 while it lose quite a few features. If you want to go small, have a look at the Gx9. But beware that the latter has a pretty basic stabilization system and the viewfinder is not so great, but certainly usable. That's why I got back to Olympus with the e-m5.3, it is the smallest full featured m43 camera out there, even though it's not perfect.
I prefer Fuji JPG.
I learned photography in the 70s of last century. At this time, the outcome and quality of your pictures was decided to at least 90% when you press the trigger of the camera. Today, the only factor fixed when you press the camera is the composition of the picture, everything else like tonality, colours, sharpness, with some cameras even focus points or depth of field can be manipulated or even created totally different within very wide margins from the situation when the photo was made. The process to catch raw digital data with the camera and actually create the picture at the computer via software is kind of alien to me till this day.
I have the impression, that the different JPEG outcomes of different cameras is comparable of using different type of film in the analog world. The problem is, that with most cameras you can't switch "films" anymore, because the JPEG output is more or less hard wired and ingrained in the camera's computer processing. There is one camera on the market, where you actually can tune the output of its JPEG within rather wide margins, and that is the Olympus Pen-F (afaik you can't do that with other Olympus cameras to a comparable extend). You can actually simulate the characteristics of old b/w film like Ilford FP or color film like Kodak Ektachrome with manipulating the camera's JPEG controls. This ability was one of my major top 3 reasons to buy that camera (the other two being the size/weight of the system and the camera's design) and till today this is the camera which suites my photographic needs and wishes the most by far, among others because of its capability to produce JPEGs as I want them, and not being fixed to the idea of how a JPEG has to look of some camera company software engineer.
PEN-F does have some really excellent controls and I do with it just what you’ve described here. You can do a lot of this on some other M43 cameras, though, by working with the output settings (of note you can set curves and manage colors; some features not covered here-you will need to access and assign features via the menus). And many cameras do allow a decent (albeit limited) amount of control for fine-tuning or creating profiles. A special shout-out is in order for Fuji and their built-in film simulations.
I couldn't agree more on the first part. Mid-Seventies photo apprentice here :)
As on JPEG capabilities: It took me weeks and very thorough testing to tune my E-M5ii to what I consider the most precise rendering of my visual perception. This mainly includes sharpness and color balance. In very rare cases I'll want to consciously modify my camera for achieving a different look than this "calibrated zero-setup".
I understand these JPEG tweaks as the quickest way of putting out some results in neutral color and with the best possible quality, given that there's no time for post-processing - in color, that is.
When it comes to b&w, I already prefer development from RAW (which is always already pre-processed in the camera to some extent, by the way), because with " Monotone" there is just one single JPEG mode that renders slightly close to the look I'd like to achieve.
In general, I tend not to rely too much on internal tools. One example: In art mode, one can chose from color filter simulations. But I found out that dialing in a yellow or red filter with the camera takes effect only on parts of the data, so I double-checked with real glass filters. The b&w results came out way better, for instance concerning the blue skies / white clouds separation every seasoned film photographer grew up with.
My conclusion: JPEG tweaks finally give us the tools to achieve results which film photographers were always chasing for: Sharp, color neutral and high quality pictures. Film stocks had their limitations, and JPEG helps those to overcome them, who neither have time nor patience to post-process the most out of their RAW files. Olympus in fact does a quite decent job on this (and thanks for the Pen tip), but with another round of testing, I reckon my pictures taken with a Sony, Lumix, Pentax, Canon, you name it... would probably look quite similar: sharp, with neutral colors.
@@olafwDE You actually might want to test the Pen-F for it. Simulating old school film is just one application for this capabilities, creating a JPEG output entirely matching your ideal version of rendering colors or greytones could be another. Especially for b/w there is, as far as I know, no better tool to do that.
I used to have the Pen F. All cameras should have that little jpg dial, methinks.
However, a newer Pen F camera could use a cellphone screen, and two card slots where one captures RAW and the other whatever jpg output you desire. RAW is huge and such a pain, and I refuse to use anything other than normal jpg (not superfine).
The first OM-D E-M1 also has the Color Creator wheel which works great. I like it for monochromes! Next, the Kodachrome look...
Panasonic looks better to my eye, more mute, less exaggeration even if a little more dull, I prefer natural.
I have to agree. I thought Fuji jpegs were the best, until I got myself an Olympus camera.
Fuji colors are weird to me. I tried to love an X100F for 9 months, ended up selling it.
I am going through this same situation, looking at Fujifilm for better jpg's. In your opinion, why is Olympus jpg's better? Thanks
Absolutely agree, Fuji colours are saturated.... in hype
Alex Reay Fuji have so many jpeg options there is no reason not to find one you love. There is a huge online scene now in Fuji JPEG "recipes" where you can make custom profiles to get just the look you want in camera. Seriously, Fuji own this space now and I'm not going back to Oly.
Hello Robin, the name of the 4 settings in the SCP (sharpness, contrast, saturation and gradation) are displayed when selected in the upper left corner. Thus, you don't have to press them to know the meaning. But indeed, the letters are very dimmed and not easy to be recognized.
Robin, why don't you make a video about the em10 mark iii. i wanna know your point of view about that camera. hehe thanks
This video is fully applicable to E-M10 Mark III, so are most of my other videos. Olympus JPEG engine benefits you also get in E-M10 Mark III. I don't think there's anything different in that camera.
A 1 step guide for how to upset Jared Polin :)
Haha what did Jared say?
@@robinwong nothing yet afaik, but he usually makes videos complaining when someone says something nice about jpegs :)
Am I drunk or has the thumbnail for this video changed three times already? 😅
Would you like it to be changed the 4th time?
@@robinwong Then he would feel double drunk.
@@douglasallen511 why not 😅
Robin - if I use an older Olympus camera and shoot in JPEG LSF, would I get any better quality if I switch to shooting in RAW (still using settings as if I were shooting final images in JPEG) and processing these image in the latest Olympus Workspace without any additional tweaks (just the in-camera settings)? I know that in-camera JPEGs have become better and better over the years but will I profit from the better JPEGs with older cameras and the newest computer software? Thank you.
The Olympus Workspace will render the exact same JPEG output from the camera. The advantage of shooting RAW is the flexibility to change some settings without consequences - white balance adjustments and shadow/highlight recovery, which will be more destructive is corrections are performed on JPEG instead.
To be honest Robin, I found this technically overwhelming...at the beginning you stated that giving a new shooter a complex post software suite as being too much. It maybe says more of my camera knowledge that I found this video very, very difficult to follow.
Having read other comments, perhaps this is simply confined to me.
The only setting I like using for jpegs is to use LSF.
Since you're no longer beholden to Olympus anymore, how about a video comparing the jpegs from Fuji ?
Not even worth making. Fuji JPEGs produce weird colors. Inaccurate and not to my liking. I'd be wasting my time and people just want to hear what they want to hear "oh Fuji has best JPEGs" and if I go against that I'm just opening a can of venomous snakes.
Robin,
I am shooting Olympus OMD cameras and Pro lenses since many years - maybe longer than you even came to the system - I started with the E1 in 2003....
I really love Olympus output also their JPEGs but ...
I really cannot understand people doing such blogs with such misleading titles mainly for getting clicks. If you would have said that Olympus colours are superior for your taste - but ...
I thought you were a different person but ....
Besides Olympus I today also shoot Nikon (Z7), Fuji (X-T3) and Leica M. And I do find all of their JPEGs as well as color science at least as good if not sometimes superior to Olympus.
I would never do a post like you have done right now that kind of kills my appreciation for you, Olympus and Olympus Ambassadors in general.
This was definitely not a good job and I would really take care doing such posts in the future because this is not good for the brand - especially in these times.
I hope you improve - long way to go!
Is ettr best for raw or jpg? Or is that a raw method only?
It is very dangerous to use ETTR for JPEG. You no room for recovery.
@@albertocugat9689 I think the reason Peter suggests using Muted and lowering saturation and contrast is for when you are using Highlights and shadows. Since according to him (and after trying it I do agree with him) that setting gives you the best info on when you risk highlight or lowlight clipping. So that you can get close to the dynamic range limit without risking crossing it. The reason this is needed is that as Robin said, what you see in the viewfinder is a rendered jpeg, so the viewfinder cant visualize the sensor's entire dynamic range. This is a workaround that gives you better control over dynamic range. The downside is that the in-camera image will look pretty muted and dull. So this is only meant for when you shoot raw and are aware that the jpg you see is not the image you are capturing.
Yikes, seems I can't buy you a coffee with my credit card without PP wanting me to open an account. I won't do that. Sorry!
No apologies needed! The thought counts and thanks for being here!
You are a little bit misleading here. What you are talking about is in camera image development. Nothing of this has anything to do with JPEG. Whether the camera saves the processed image as JPEG, TIFF, PNG or whatever doesn't really matter when talking about the processing itself.
But if you would want to talk about the format the processed images is saved to, you are missing the big elephant in the room: HEIF. Why does everybody but Canon ignore this superior format? It produces better pictures at the same size or smaller files with the same quality as JPEG (the user's choice). But more importantly: it is not limited to 8 bit like JPEG. HEIF files can store images with 10 (and even up to 16) bits of dynamic range. That gives you most of the benefits of RAW at file sizes smaller than JPEG. I cannot understand why camera manufacturers are trailing smartphone makers by years here.
The title says "Why is Olympus JPEG superior?"
You don't need to go far to connect the dots that title refers to the way Olympus cameras process in camera JPEG.
First time I took a look on an Olympus JPG, I instantly regreted to have bought that camera. The colours were terrible. I'm coming from Nikon and the JPGs of my old Nikon looked fantastic.
So I never bothered to use JPG again with Olympus. Take the RAW files and put them into Darktable. The colours look good again ;-)
I used to be a big Olympus JPEG fan. But then I bought a Fuji. No contest I'm afraid. I'm not going back. It's Fuji all the way now - they own the market if you want great JPEGS.
I respect Your opinion but i do prefer Fujis jpegs over Olympus. I have been shooting with Canon, Nikon and Olympus and they are all good but i do prefer the Fuji x. Today i shoot mostly Fuji x and sometimes Panasonic micro 4/3. I think today the Olympus cameras are to expensive like the Olympus em1 mark II. Where I live the Fuji xt20 costing less than half than the Olympus em1 mark II and I consider the overall image quality of the fuji x is higher than the Olympus.
Are the Fuji always the best? No. It is not the best for action Photography.
It depends in what situation and what You are taking photos of.
And it also depends on what You like when looking at a photo. Some prefer Nikon look. Some prefer canon or other. And yes it depends also on your settings in the camera for whitebalance and camera profile for image style.
The Fuji jpegs i need very little or Sometimes no editing.
Great content but the poor guy looks like he's constantly squeezing one out.
Robin, if you shoot jpg+RAW, is ETTR recommended? I Use ETTR, except in low light conditions, but was wondering if I should only do that if not shooting jpg of jpg+raw