Naked 5.12a/b Red River Gorge Climbing
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- Naked is a short but stout climb in the Left side of the Chocolate Factory in PMRP of Red River Gorge. It was originally put up as 5.12a but has been upgraded on mountain project since. For Lucia, it was a route that she would hop on every year and punt at the top. Until... one day.... she clipped the chains! Woohoo! Sorry for the shaky video quality.
Naked... Nice tube and good send! Thanks for sharing. I'm a little bitter about this one. I started bolting this thing the same day that David Hume bolted Cat's Demise. There was a small Hemlock right in the way of the start and since I had a cross-cut saw with me I decided to take it out. The anchor was set and a couple bolts were placed so I rapped off to take out the tree and check out the start.
When the tree fell off the stump it not only tangled in my rope tied off to the anchor but it trapped the crosscut saw as well. Fuck! The scene was a damn mess now and instead of walking away with a nice little project ready to get climbed, I left a horrible mess. The route was missing the starting bolts and the cut tree was hopelessly tangled in my fixed line.
I bailed, promising myself to come back and clean up the mess I had created.
Smash cut to a bouldering session in my garage with BB later that week. He informs me that he top-roped that same line back in 1993. "Fuck you!", I say. "You would have been in high school and we had just started developing the lode that year!".
BB sticks to his bullshit story that he did the FA on TR in 1993. Never mind that the tree would have cold stopped any TR or lead attempt before I went after it with a cross-cut saw.
What possible motivation does this person have for this blatant mistruth? The route is 12a and 6 bolts long. It's also well below his standard of difficulty. Weird.
The mess gets cleaned up by BB and the route is reported as his FA. Whatever.
Years later a friend and walk up on the same wall and there is BB spinning a yarn about how the FA was done on the lead without bolts, on gear. I'm unable to contain my composure and launch into a vindictive diatribe questioning BB's integrity and honesty. Who fucking pulls this kinda shit?
Anyhow, fuck him. This route just ain't that good...LOL
Those holds looks so good. Quite a sweet route, nice job.