There were a lot of comments on the last video on the drive keys and that the screws used to attach them would shear off. And I am not saying that any of those comments are wrong, but there's only one way to find out. I also think that if that were to happen, it's something I can modify and fix.
The spacer disc should be machined to very close to the pitch line of the drive gear.....I used data from the K&T lead book for both of my gears and the contact is pretty good all the way across the tooth but not perfect as I did not calculate the lead exactly... I would imagine that those gears were cut at the factory with hobbing machines which would give a better involute and lead... The drive gear is softer in your case and will wear but that is better because it would be much harder to make a driven gear... Cheers from hot Louisiana!
The gear that I am using was cut on a hob. A friend of mine made it, kind of as an experiment of sorts. He used his Bridgeport to mount the hob and then set up a dividing head to hold the gear blank. He put an RPM gauge on the spindle and a stepper motor on the dividing head. He then used Clough42's electronic lead screw board, made some changes to the code, and matched the rotation of the dividing head to the rotation of the hob. And then more or less guessed on the table feed rate. It came out pretty good, but we suspect there was some excess tool pressure which caused one side of the gear to not get cut to full depth. It might not be perfect, but it works!
It's hard to match a gear when you're doing it from the handbook without the specimen on hand to match it to, so it's not a huge surprise it isnt a perfect fit. The good news is a K&T is the perfect machine to cut a new one, although you would need a lead attachment that can turn the dividing head to cut helical gears. Well done on the restoration.
Thanks. It's been a lot of fun, and I think I have plans to improve it. As far as cutting my own helical gears, and since I don't have a universal table, I would need to use this universal head. And of course a lead attachment. But the chances of finding a lead attachment for a 2HL is probably slim at best. And to find one with all the gears and worms, probably less likely. But I have a better idea that will give me everything I need to do that, plus make the job of making regular gears even easier. Subscribe and stay tuned!
I like the sentiment. I am all about trying and learning things. I know much of what I do in my shop isn't necessarily the "right" way to do something. But it's sometimes "a" way to do it. And sometimes I am wrong and I learn from it. Thanks for watching!
There are a few theories as to what the cause was when the gear was being made. But for now, I think I am going to be OK using it as is. Thanks for watching!
There were a lot of comments on the last video on the drive keys and that the screws used to attach them would shear off. And I am not saying that any of those comments are wrong, but there's only one way to find out. I also think that if that were to happen, it's something I can modify and fix.
Looks like you got a win there. I know you are glad to get this project wrapped up.
I am. I have a small project in mind that I might use it for in the upcoming weeks.
Gday Greg, most importantly is that it works mate, done well, cheers
Thank you, friend!
Nice to see this coming together. I've had my own adventures in trying to track down noises. Frustrating! Great work!
Thanks! 👍
Thanks for sharing, enjoyed it
Thanks for watching!
Let's not forget that this is a hobby machine. If it works, it works. And if it doesn't work, you will fix it.
Could not say it better myself! Thanks, my friend!
The spacer disc should be machined to very close to the pitch line of the drive gear.....I used data from the K&T lead book for both of my gears and the contact is pretty good all the way across the tooth but not perfect as I did not calculate the lead exactly... I would imagine that those gears were cut at the factory with hobbing machines which would give a better involute and lead... The drive gear is softer in your case and will wear but that is better because it would be much harder to make a driven gear... Cheers from hot Louisiana!
The gear that I am using was cut on a hob. A friend of mine made it, kind of as an experiment of sorts. He used his Bridgeport to mount the hob and then set up a dividing head to hold the gear blank. He put an RPM gauge on the spindle and a stepper motor on the dividing head. He then used Clough42's electronic lead screw board, made some changes to the code, and matched the rotation of the dividing head to the rotation of the hob. And then more or less guessed on the table feed rate. It came out pretty good, but we suspect there was some excess tool pressure which caused one side of the gear to not get cut to full depth.
It might not be perfect, but it works!
It's hard to match a gear when you're doing it from the handbook without the specimen on hand to match it to, so it's not a huge surprise it isnt a perfect fit. The good news is a K&T is the perfect machine to cut a new one, although you would need a lead attachment that can turn the dividing head to cut helical gears. Well done on the restoration.
Thanks. It's been a lot of fun, and I think I have plans to improve it. As far as cutting my own helical gears, and since I don't have a universal table, I would need to use this universal head. And of course a lead attachment. But the chances of finding a lead attachment for a 2HL is probably slim at best. And to find one with all the gears and worms, probably less likely. But I have a better idea that will give me everything I need to do that, plus make the job of making regular gears even easier. Subscribe and stay tuned!
We try and learn. Or we set back and tell others that they don't know how. 😊
I like the sentiment. I am all about trying and learning things. I know much of what I do in my shop isn't necessarily the "right" way to do something. But it's sometimes "a" way to do it. And sometimes I am wrong and I learn from it. Thanks for watching!
I really thought you had put a red brick on the mill for the 3” test until you touched off 😂
LOL. Maybe some diamond inserts in a face mill and we can give it a try!
wear only on the one side is consistent with the sound I hear that one of the gears is a little eccentric.
There are a few theories as to what the cause was when the gear was being made. But for now, I think I am going to be OK using it as is. Thanks for watching!
does this head use grease or oil?
Both, I am told. Grease on the internal bevel gears, but oil on the spindle bearings.
@@MyLilMule yes thats what i was told aswell
Really not a good idea using a rag by the rotating cutter if you don't want to get your fingers pulled in.
Where? I have no idea to what you are referring.