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Boiler triple Aquastat L8124 bad High limit switch or sensor.
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- Опубліковано 14 лис 2020
- Below are the problems I was having with my boiler after recently trying to convert it to be warm start after removing the domestic hot water coil. Replacing the Aquastat with a new one (L8124C-1003) fixed my issues.
Before replacing these were my issues:
I turned down the LO on the Aquastat down from 170 degrees to 130 after removing the domestic hot water coil but when I did so the boiler wasn't getting hot enough for the baseboard heat.
It appears that the high limit switch or temperature sensor was not working in the old triple Aquastat, if I set the LO to 130 degrees with a DIFF of 10 and High set at 190 when the thermostat is calling for heat the burner wont fire until the water temperature reaches approx. 130 degrees or so (Circulator pump stays on all the way down to 130 degrees).Also, the boiler will stop firing around 160 degrees under these same settings (wont get any hotter than 160 degrees under these settings). With the aforementioned settings it should fire around 180 degrees (190 - 10 degree non-adjustable HI DIFF).
These symptoms didn't show up until I turned the LO limit down (after removing domestic hot water coil) because before the boiler would always fire when it reached the LO limit of 170 and heat up to around 200 degrees.
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This is a triple aquastat, the hi limit shuts off the burner when on a call for heat. That means when the main zone is heating the house.The second setting is the lo - limit reverse that is to maintain domestic hot water when there is not a call for heat. This is used when you use the boiler for domestic hot water. In this instance the tankless coil has been removed so the lo limit can be lowered way down in temp be aware that the heat circ will not run if the boiler temp is below the lo limit temp setting. On a call for heat the circ clapper will pull in and the burner will start, but the circulator won’t run until the boiler temp goes above the lo limit setting then the burner will continue until either the hi limit is satisfied or the thermostat is satisfied. Listening to your description of the problem, I didn’t see any problem that couldn’t have been dealt with by compensating the limit setting on the control to maintain the temp you wanted to achieve. I 100 % think you made a good choice by maintaining some temp in the boiler especially given you having a Peerless. Every fall you would need a jack hammer to clean the sections. PS there has to be a minimum of 20’ degree spread between the hi and lo settings so as not to lock out the heat circulator. Example limit set at 185’ lo set to 165’ a minimum of 20’ between the two.
I had the same problem, which I solved by spraying down the aquastat with CRC Contact Cleaner, now the aqustat works perfect saving me the cost of buying myself a new one.
I have this boiler and it works both my heat and hot water. I have been having issues with this running and not sending heat and doing the same with my hot water.
I hope to have this fixed before cold weather hits my area.
I chased this all last winter and had to turn off the heater to reset whatever to have heat and hot water.
Thanx for sharing this video.
I think I might have the same issue. Hi limit seems to do nothing. I have it set at 160 and water gets as high as 220/225 when it's fired up. Water out of the faucet gets to 175, hot enough to scorch a home invader if you have enough time to fill a pot. To be determined if replacing the aquastat will fix my issue. Either way I learned something from this, so thank you!
A boiler like this that does heat and domestic HW requires a mixing valve.
Very nice video I had a high pressure problem in a client boiler it turn out to be the expansion tank full of water and the water reducing fedder allowing more water into the boiler .
Good video, very well explained without unnecessary added noise. Thanks
Also comes with heat transfer grease you put on probe
I have the exact same. Now the circulating pump does not turn on...or at least most of the time. Kind of intermittent...so for now I plugged the circulating pump directly into an 120v outlet.
---When I click the relay manually, the circulating pump turns ON (power to the contacts) and the furnace fires up.
---When the furnace runs on its own, if I click the relay manually, no power to the pump contacts (???)
Very weird. All circuit board traces are good. Any hints?
How do you swap the units? What tools are needed? Thanks! Great vid
my new boiler lost good hot water pressure its only 2 years old since installed new !, Cold pressure is great ! I cleaned the coil with vinegar 2x, A little better but not much. The Honeywell boiler control LED is blinking a code = SEA (I) . There are 3 buttons on the upper left inside and another to the right. I am not sure homw to check these settings. But I am thinking it needs to be re-set if it bliks a code like that. Anyone know how to fix this ? Thanks.
Is that sensor at the end of the video a replaceable part? Mine expands the bladder under the high limit switch but is not retracting and therefore not closing the circuit
I have the same setup with an old TEXACO Fuel Chief cast iron boiler. No domestic hot water just ambient temp with identical aquastat. Is it ok to keep the low temp bottomed out other than having a long cycle? Im just not sure what an optimal setting is for just baseboard heat. I supplement with a pellet stove so my demand for heat is minimal
Good work
Did you swap out the whole aquastat or just that hi lo switch? I think my aquastat is doing the same thing. My boiler won't run on its own. I have to hit reset for it to fire. Then when it fires only one zone seems to be working out of two. One circulator isn't running. I have the same boiler, WB3.
I replaced the entire aquastat.
@@idothings6605 Cool. Thanks for the reply. My problem was the motor and the primary. Replaced both and works great now.
Check for any Irregularity
My blower keeps cutting in and out every few mins...my furnace is very old. I'm wondering if it's the limit switch?
This is for a boiler not a furnace.
So my heat continues to rise no matter what the setting I have the thermostat on. I have it set at 62 and it will often hit 69, when I shut it off from the thermostat it continues to turn on as well
If you're talking about the room temperature, that may be a problem with your thermostat. The boiler shouldn't shut-off until it reaches the HI setting on the Aquastat (typically set around 180 degrees Fahrenheit).
@@idothings6605 so I put in a brand new thermostat , and I have the room temp set at 62 however it reads 68-70 and the furnace will continue to turn on even after it reached set temperature. I’m confused as to what can be causing this. I was going to replace the entire aqua stat I just don’t know what direction to go in
Is your relay held in? Could be faulty contacts on the relay remains closed when it should open
What would cause a similar set up to let circ pump run when boiler heats up, but the circ pump won't come on when thermostat calls for heat?
Themostat works and pulls in relay
What’s the LO setting on your aquastat?
180L 200H 15D
Excellent job, but what is the set point of low/ high and the diff.
I replied but got blocked. WTF?
When house calls for heat the burner turns on at HI - 10 degrees and turns off at HI degrees. Typically set to 180.
LO and DIFF control hot water coming out of tankless coil.
Burner turns on at LO - 10 degrees and turns off at LO + DIFF degrees. Also, the hot water circulator to radiators is not allowed to turn on below LO + DIFF. This is so someone taking a shower doesn't get a jolt of cold water.
I have my LO at 120 and DIFF at 20. This heats the tankless coil up to 140. Heater won't run until coil goes down to 110. Higher DIFF means burner runs longer; lower DIFF means burner runs shorter but more frequently.
IMPORTANT: HI and LO must be set at least 20 degrees apart to function properly. It is ok if HI and LO are more than 20 apart! Someone told me that LO should be 160 and HI should be 180 but 160 degree tap water is way too hot and will scald you unless you have a tempering valve. In spring and summer I set LO at 120 which is plenty hot for showers etc. and saves oil. I also always have DIFF at 20 degrees. Burner runs longer which I feel is more efficient than shorter run times.
@@mattfoley6082 p] ppl
What did you swap out? You didn't say or show?!! Was it the whole Aquastat?
I ended up replacing the whole Aquastat. Thanks for watching!
@@idothings6605 Is everything working fine still? Those things aren't cheap.
@@cheskybaba4864 Everything is still working great!
The water pump not working. Water not running
Which water pump?
Check your Exhaust do a test
How much I can charge for replace that part?
How old is the boiler?
28 years old!
@@idothings6605 I have the same boiler mine is 31 years old. I just don't like it that the door does not swing open in order to vacuum it out. I take off the burner and then vacuum it out through there.
@@garagekeys I know, having to remove the door is a pain!
@@garagekeys My Peerless WB3 was made in 10-90 (from serial number). I do my own service after watching service man and watching videos. I don't do combustion analysis so efficiency is not optimum, but I make up for lost efficiency in not paying $300/year for service!