Looks good! I’ll be going with that air line soon. On my insulated box I framed a simple adapter to accept standard furnace filters so I can filter the air going in. Its crazy how much grinder dust gets caught in it and just an easy swap out a few times a year
This idea can be compounded by using remote mounted airbox filter from most cars. 1990's Geo/prism Air Boxes are abundant and can be found at most salvage yards for about $20. A 80HP Geo Metro Air Filter will meet or exceed almost any compressor. A Natural Loop Of Tubing will give a huge reduction of Pop And High frequency Noise. It will also give a air filter for about $20 that is easy to replace
I ran copper in my shop 20 years ago, soldered fittings myself. After 10 years renting shop building we bought a new house and built a detached shop that was smaller. I reused the copper, the runs were shorter and I didn’t feel like sweating fittings so I used shark bite fittings and they worked out fine. if I were to do it again I would sell the copper and use RapidAir products. Every installation I’ve seen looks professional and performs great.
I install the same system. I wish I had added valves prior to the blocks. Lot easier to connect things in when there is no pressure on the quick connects. Momentary restrictions aren't bad. Long runs are bad. Your regulator is your biggest restriction. Personally I would make a few small changes. I would remove one of the bungs from the front of the tank and adapt for 3/4" piping. Upgrade the regulator to 3/4". As for a tank drain, I plumbed in hard pipe with a 1/4 turn valve. Bend down turn the valve to drain.
Really glad you mentioned the bungs on the front. I couldn't find any information if those could be removed and reduced with fittings to the size I want to run.
@@TwoFourSevenDIY I pulled out the big reducer bung plug 20+ years ago on my 60g compressor. I replaced it with a reduce to 3/4 with a 3/4 street el and full port valve. I did settle on a 1/2in npt fitting on a 3/4in leader hose, so there is a 1/2:3/4 bushing on the output of the valve. Then another 1/2:3/4 bushing to enter 3/4 copper tube header with multiple take offs and to supply air to blow out my sprinkler system. Nice review vid. I've been thinking about doing maxair or rapidair to expand the system but I want a long run to get to the house, thru the attic and down into the basement utility room for air down there. Might just do pex or pex-al-pex (looks like the air stuff you were working with!) for that.
@@TwoFourSevenDIY Mine is a campbell hausfeld industrial 100% duty cycle so may not match your sanborn. The bungs on mine are 2in NPT so a standard bushing 2in:3/4in from the plumbing store worked great for me.
I wish I coulld find a pull style drain with a way to connect a hose on the bottom. I plan to run my drain ouside the garage so I don't end up with water in my garage. Great video.
Hey bud, Nice install! For your compressor get you a quart of Amsoil compressor oil and while your at it a can of metal protector (there version of WD40) you will not regret the stuff in amazing and you comp will run a lot cooler.. put the metal protector on your vent flaps.. Thanks again!!
If it hasn't been well-established by other commenters already: your airline size or fitting size coming out of the tank won't make any difference for any diy level stuff. 1/4" npt can flow up to 30 cfm, 3/8" will flow 100+ cfm. Increasing airline size effectively increases the overall capacity for air storage. The diameter of your air lines will change the pressure drop with the initial trigger pull on whatever air tool you're using but even that big honkin compressor couldn't keep up with a wide-open unrestricted 1/4" fitting. That being said, there is definitely a difference in available power from an air tool with 1/4" vs 3/8" or 1/2" inlet fittings. Bigger is better.
I had actually wondered this as I was going to make an enclosure for my compressor and wanted to run hose to an external pressure regulator outside the box. 1/4” hose vs 3/8” would not make a difference here?
@@Dnasty1 technically it would but you wouldn't really notice unless you were using your air tools to their limits squeezing every bit of power out of them. Often overlooked is the reduced flow capacity of air pressure regulators coming off the tank. If you're experiencing noticable lack of power from your air tools or you see big pressure drops from the initial 'trigger pull' maybe opt for a high-flow regulator or remove it altogether. Not recommending it per se, but I've used even cheapo harbor freight and tractor supply air tools in a professional setting running 120-150+ psi without any regulators and no issues with tools.
I would go with a 1/2 inch copper line to the air , make a coil out it to reduce heat,it will be needing support. 3/8ths oof a inch has way to much restriction in flow. rip the pump off the old compressor and make a pig tink that can be used with the sprayer to reduce heat and moisture. A auto drain is a must on the tank or they can go Kaboom.
On many areas you could have just bent the pipe instead of using flow restricting 90's. Minimum radius for 3/4" pipe is 6 to 8 inches and you will have a smooth flow through your pipe. Start adding up those 90's and your flow rate takes a hit.
You are right, in my case I chose the 90s for visual reasons, I saw many setups that did radius bends in the corners and really didn't like the look, so I opted for 90s which look much cleaner
I'm thinking if you put a pipe T in that fitting stack right at the filter, you could use standard fittings for your first drop and save that first set of fancy custom fittings for another drop.
So nice how much detail you went into. Exactly what I needed. Thank you for taking the time to do that. I’m gonna have three lines. One for my CNC plasma, one for my powder coat gun and one for my press brake. Each one requires different PSI. Should a put a regulator/air filter before or after each manifold?
I would for the ease of it. A regulator for each machine means you could set your desired psi at each and basically leave it, instead of changing the pressure at the compressor everytime you want to use a different thing.
The initial 3/8" outlet acts as a bottleneck in your system, so even if the piping downstream is larger (e.g., 1/2"), the system's flow capacity will still be limited by that smallest point of restriction. Here's how it works: Bottleneck Effect: The air must pass through the 3/8" outlet first, which limits the maximum CFM that can flow into the larger 1/2" piping. This restriction caps the overall flow, regardless of the larger diameter downstream. Pressure Recovery: While larger piping can reduce pressure drops over distance, the initial restriction (3/8" outlet) means the volume of air entering the system is already limited. The larger piping won't "restore" the lost capacity. Tool Performance: Tools requiring high CFM might still suffer because the 3/8" outlet can't supply enough airflow, even though the downstream piping minimizes further losses. Conclusion: The 3/8" outlet remains the limiting factor. To maximize performance: Upgrade the outlet size on the compressor to match the downstream piping (e.g., 1/2"). Ensure fittings and hoses also match the desired diameter to maintain consistent flow. A system is only as strong as its weakest link when it comes to air delivery.
Awesome video! 3/8 fitting off the tank will restrict the air under high volume demand. adding air to your tire it’ll work just fine. Seating the tire bead to the rim not going to cut it. 3/8” impact gun should work fine. 1/2” impact gun may not get full power from. (Industrial Electrician)
That's quite right from a 'jack of all trades". At minimum.....your piping ....in my mind....re cfm....should be same as the pipe/tube from the compressor going into the tank
Question: When the compressor reaches operating pressure is it supposed to hiss and relieve air? I was under the impression that once it reaches it stops.
Always surprised to hear guys that have great luck with HF compressors. I had 3 die within a week of purchase, all in different ways, before I found a good deal on something else.
Awesome video, I am finishing up my shop now and will definitely be using your videos as a guide. I had my contractor try to paint the OSB walls but the paint ate up the OSB. What paint did you use? And when you talked about going with 3/4" instead of 1/2" because of the openings being too small, couldn't you buy full open ball valves? T I A!
I just use the top spec Valspar interior paint from Lowes ... it's expensive but I like it because its so thick, even over this plywood I only needed one coat. And it wasn't so much the valves, it was the inside of the compression fittings included in the kit
It's an existing structure that was there when I bought the barn ... was an insulated room that was mouse infested ... I removed the walls and insulation. And yea I know it's not structural, the only stuff that goes up overhead is light weight stuff.
Can't you put an extension tank somewhere in the shop with 1/2 in fittings to get more power if/when you need it? That way the 3/8 won't limit you for short term/high flow situations?
That's definitely an option. So far, the current setup doesn't give me any issues with what I use it for, but I'll consider this in the future if it becomes an issue
In a 220 configuration ground is common, white and black are hot, so you can use either hot lead with the ground and that gives you 110v. In your breaker box all 110 circuits, the white and ground connect to the same buss bar thus referred to as common.@@TwoFourSevenDIY
Thats the same way it is done in the breaker box, nothing sketchy about it. A breaker panel is fed with 220, 3 wire only for 110 you connect one leg of the 220 and the common/ground wire....@@TwoFourSevenDIY
Holy, do you talk a lot! Keep things short and sweet! You have great content but people come here to see you do work not to talk about doing work. I don't what to come off like I am criticizing you, just thought I would make a suggestion to hopefully get more subscribers.
I do like to explain certain things though, but it's a big reason why I put chapters in my videos, you can skip to the work and disregard the technical sort of talk
Looks good! I’ll be going with that air line soon. On my insulated box I framed a simple adapter to accept standard furnace filters so I can filter the air going in. Its crazy how much grinder dust gets caught in it and just an easy swap out a few times a year
This idea can be compounded by using remote mounted airbox filter from most cars. 1990's Geo/prism Air Boxes are abundant and can be found at most salvage yards for about $20. A 80HP Geo Metro Air Filter will meet or exceed almost any compressor. A Natural Loop Of Tubing will give a huge reduction of Pop And High frequency Noise. It will also give a air filter for about $20 that is easy to replace
A 40 watt bulb will keep a space that small plenty warm in the winter.
I ran copper in my shop 20 years ago, soldered fittings myself. After 10 years renting shop building we bought a new house and built a detached shop that was smaller. I reused the copper, the runs were shorter and I didn’t feel like sweating fittings so I used shark bite fittings and they worked out fine. if I were to do it again I would sell the copper and use RapidAir products. Every installation I’ve seen looks professional and performs great.
I install the same system. I wish I had added valves prior to the blocks. Lot easier to connect things in when there is no pressure on the quick connects.
Momentary restrictions aren't bad. Long runs are bad. Your regulator is your biggest restriction. Personally I would make a few small changes. I would remove one of the bungs from the front of the tank and adapt for 3/4" piping. Upgrade the regulator to 3/4".
As for a tank drain, I plumbed in hard pipe with a 1/4 turn valve. Bend down turn the valve to drain.
Really glad you mentioned the bungs on the front. I couldn't find any information if those could be removed and reduced with fittings to the size I want to run.
@@TwoFourSevenDIY I pulled out the big reducer bung plug 20+ years ago on my 60g compressor. I replaced it with a reduce to 3/4 with a 3/4 street el and full port valve. I did settle on a 1/2in npt fitting on a 3/4in leader hose, so there is a 1/2:3/4 bushing on the output of the valve. Then another 1/2:3/4 bushing to enter 3/4 copper tube header with multiple take offs and to supply air to blow out my sprinkler system.
Nice review vid. I've been thinking about doing maxair or rapidair to expand the system but I want a long run to get to the house, thru the attic and down into the basement utility room for air down there. Might just do pex or pex-al-pex (looks like the air stuff you were working with!) for that.
Do you happen to remember the large plug size? Havent pulled it to measure it yet ... Looks like 2" or maybe 2.5"
@@TwoFourSevenDIY Mine is a campbell hausfeld industrial 100% duty cycle so may not match your sanborn. The bungs on mine are 2in NPT so a standard bushing 2in:3/4in from the plumbing store worked great for me.
@@TwoFourSevenDIY unfortunately I do not. I pulled it, and brought it to the hardware store.
Thank you for taking the time to put this together
No problem!
I wish I coulld find a pull style drain with a way to connect a hose on the bottom. I plan to run my drain ouside the garage so I don't end up with water in my garage. Great video.
Hey bud, Nice install! For your compressor get you a quart of Amsoil compressor oil and while your at it a can of metal protector (there version of WD40) you will not regret the stuff in amazing and you comp will run a lot cooler.. put the metal protector on your vent flaps.. Thanks again!!
Good info, thanks.
If it hasn't been well-established by other commenters already: your airline size or fitting size coming out of the tank won't make any difference for any diy level stuff. 1/4" npt can flow up to 30 cfm, 3/8" will flow 100+ cfm. Increasing airline size effectively increases the overall capacity for air storage. The diameter of your air lines will change the pressure drop with the initial trigger pull on whatever air tool you're using but even that big honkin compressor couldn't keep up with a wide-open unrestricted 1/4" fitting. That being said, there is definitely a difference in available power from an air tool with 1/4" vs 3/8" or 1/2" inlet fittings. Bigger is better.
I had actually wondered this as I was going to make an enclosure for my compressor and wanted to run hose to an external pressure regulator outside the box. 1/4” hose vs 3/8” would not make a difference here?
@@Dnasty1 technically it would but you wouldn't really notice unless you were using your air tools to their limits squeezing every bit of power out of them. Often overlooked is the reduced flow capacity of air pressure regulators coming off the tank. If you're experiencing noticable lack of power from your air tools or you see big pressure drops from the initial 'trigger pull' maybe opt for a high-flow regulator or remove it altogether. Not recommending it per se, but I've used even cheapo harbor freight and tractor supply air tools in a professional setting running 120-150+ psi without any regulators and no issues with tools.
I would go with a 1/2 inch copper line to the air , make a coil out it to reduce heat,it will be needing support. 3/8ths oof a inch has way to much restriction in flow. rip the pump off the old compressor and make a pig tink that can be used with the sprayer to reduce heat and moisture. A auto drain is a must on the tank or they can go Kaboom.
Great video man, nice setup!
Thanks
On many areas you could have just bent the pipe instead of using flow restricting 90's. Minimum radius for 3/4" pipe is 6 to 8 inches and you will have a smooth flow through your pipe. Start adding up those 90's and your flow rate takes a hit.
You are right, in my case I chose the 90s for visual reasons, I saw many setups that did radius bends in the corners and really didn't like the look, so I opted for 90s which look much cleaner
I'm thinking if you put a pipe T in that fitting stack right at the filter, you could use standard fittings for your first drop and save that first set of fancy custom fittings for another drop.
So nice how much detail you went into. Exactly what I needed. Thank you for taking the time to do that. I’m gonna have three lines. One for my CNC plasma, one for my powder coat gun and one for my press brake. Each one requires different PSI. Should a put a regulator/air filter before or after each manifold?
I would for the ease of it. A regulator for each machine means you could set your desired psi at each and basically leave it, instead of changing the pressure at the compressor everytime you want to use a different thing.
Nice detailed vid, thx 👍🐈🐾🐾
Glad you liked it
The initial 3/8" outlet acts as a bottleneck in your system, so even if the piping downstream is larger (e.g., 1/2"), the system's flow capacity will still be limited by that smallest point of restriction. Here's how it works:
Bottleneck Effect: The air must pass through the 3/8" outlet first, which limits the maximum CFM that can flow into the larger 1/2" piping. This restriction caps the overall flow, regardless of the larger diameter downstream.
Pressure Recovery: While larger piping can reduce pressure drops over distance, the initial restriction (3/8" outlet) means the volume of air entering the system is already limited. The larger piping won't "restore" the lost capacity.
Tool Performance: Tools requiring high CFM might still suffer because the 3/8" outlet can't supply enough airflow, even though the downstream piping minimizes further losses.
Conclusion:
The 3/8" outlet remains the limiting factor. To maximize performance:
Upgrade the outlet size on the compressor to match the downstream piping (e.g., 1/2").
Ensure fittings and hoses also match the desired diameter to maintain consistent flow.
A system is only as strong as its weakest link when it comes to air delivery.
Put in some rockwool insulation will cut down on the noise level.
Nice video
Thanks!
Awesome video!
3/8 fitting off the tank will restrict the air under high volume demand. adding air to your tire it’ll work just fine. Seating the tire bead to the rim not going to cut it. 3/8” impact gun should work fine. 1/2” impact gun may not get full power from. (Industrial Electrician)
That's quite right from a 'jack of all trades". At minimum.....your piping ....in my mind....re cfm....should be same as the pipe/tube from the compressor going into the tank
Question:
When the compressor reaches operating pressure is it supposed to hiss and relieve air?
I was under the impression that once it reaches it stops.
No it should shutoff completely when it reaches the target pressure
Always surprised to hear guys that have great luck with HF compressors. I had 3 die within a week of purchase, all in different ways, before I found a good deal on something else.
They honor warranties at my location. But I can understand the hassle factor of returns and exchanges.
sure you did
can you use shut off valves to each run to prevent having to fill entire run?
You absolutely could, yea.
3/4 better then 1/2 for tire guns
Awesome video, I am finishing up my shop now and will definitely be using your videos as a guide. I had my contractor try to paint the OSB walls but the paint ate up the OSB. What paint did you use? And when you talked about going with 3/4" instead of 1/2" because of the openings being too small, couldn't you buy full open ball valves? T I A!
I just use the top spec Valspar interior paint from Lowes ... it's expensive but I like it because its so thick, even over this plywood I only needed one coat.
And it wasn't so much the valves, it was the inside of the compression fittings included in the kit
@@TwoFourSevenDIY oh, that makes sense, thanks
That loft looks sketchy. I hope you don't use that space for much. I would rip that out and reframe it correctly.
Compressor setup looks good.
It's an existing structure that was there when I bought the barn ... was an insulated room that was mouse infested ... I removed the walls and insulation.
And yea I know it's not structural, the only stuff that goes up overhead is light weight stuff.
Can't you put an extension tank somewhere in the shop with 1/2 in fittings to get more power if/when you need it? That way the 3/8 won't limit you for short term/high flow situations?
That's definitely an option. So far, the current setup doesn't give me any issues with what I use it for, but I'll consider this in the future if it becomes an issue
@@TwoFourSevenDIY You could use the tank from the old compressor. 😁
Kudos on the install bro, but seeing that wiring for the compressor and the plug on it speaks 110V not 220V.
It's a 20A plug on a 20A 220V circuit
@@TwoFourSevenDIY NEMA 6-20?
Https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-20A-250V-Single-Receptacle-WH/1002793566
@@TwoFourSevenDIY Yeah, that's a NEMA 6-20R. Cheers! Keep plugging away on the 'roo'!
Ream the ends of your pipe, then no scratches.
It was
The pipe machine has a pipecutter/threader has a reamer too.
Was he talking about the snow blower.......or.....oh ya....that compressor almost completely blocked by the snow blower????
Huh?
You could have just tapped off one leg of 220 and common for your 110, nice video.
My 220 circuit doesn't have a common, just 2 hot legs and a ground.
In a 220 configuration ground is common, white and black are hot, so you can use either hot lead with the ground and that gives you 110v. In your breaker box all 110 circuits, the white and ground connect to the same buss bar thus referred to as common.@@TwoFourSevenDIY
@rkaski1958 That's a pretty sketchy way to do it lol
Thats the same way it is done in the breaker box, nothing sketchy about it. A breaker panel is fed with 220, 3 wire only for 110 you connect one leg of the 220 and the common/ground wire....@@TwoFourSevenDIY
K
Check valve
OK I checked it
Painful lesson! You HAVE to use maxline adapters or nothing else works. Just buying the standard barbs for inside of hose will not work.
Your over thinking you dont need no heater come on man😊
I'll agree to disagree. Better safe than sorry.
Ss fittings need anti seize
You bought from the wrong company.
Eastwood salsa , whole kids with the elbows and everything
Hmmm, salsa and kids you say?
Decent video but PLEASE loose the music or at least turn it down. It's obnoxious when watching at 2X speed.
Sorry I don't film with the intent of people watching at 2x speed 😅
I couldn't watch with all the pointing and hand gestures.
👉 👈 👇 👍 👎 👋 👋
@@TwoFourSevenDIY nice.. great way to build your channel.
Loosen up a little man. Anyway, your comments are growing the analytics for me, so thanks!
Holy, do you talk a lot! Keep things short and sweet! You have great content but people come here to see you do work not to talk about doing work. I don't what to come off like I am criticizing you, just thought I would make a suggestion to hopefully get more subscribers.
I do like to explain certain things though, but it's a big reason why I put chapters in my videos, you can skip to the work and disregard the technical sort of talk
Damn, you come off as a major Biatch! But of course, I dont want to come off like Im criticizing you.👍
too much much talking
Cry about it 😆