I have an electronic controlled 307 in my 87 Fleetwood brougham. Sluggish car but I love the way it drives on the roads. My intake gaskets went, so I pulled it off. I took those pipes out, cut them flush with the hex, and welded them shut. Also have removed old heat choke for electric, and am not using the egr. We shall see how it went , haven't driven it yet! Lol
Let us know. Take a look at the exhaust, I suspect you may run a little rich. Remember the induction, whether it's a carburetor or some kind of throttle body, is designed for that heat to vaporize the fuel. When you take it away, car may run a little tougher and dirtier. I would use the old vacuum gauge method to a adjust
EGR only works at high manifold vacuum - about the same time as vac advance on the dizzy starts working. It lowers combustion temperature by adding a bit of exhaust to reduce oxides of nitrogen. A side benefit is it reduces light load detonation allowing perhaps more vac advance and therefore better light load fuel economy. That's all when it works. If it sticks open then it a big bloody problem, but if it sticks shut then it's not much of a problem - motor could rattle a bit going from cruise to a higher throttle position as the vac advnce comes off. EGR doesn't usually work at idle or full throttle. Blocking it off is a good idea for performance not because of the recirculating exhaust but because of the intake is cooler. Some motors realize a big performance gain from a cooler intake bottom, others not so much. Re headers, I don't know about 4 into 1s reducing bottom end torque. Maybe they do on some motors I dunno.. I had a bone stock 1970 318 with a stinkin' Ball & Ball/Carter factory 2bbl on it and crappy exhaust manifolds and put some 4 into 1s on it and I reckon the thing picked up about 60ft/lbs torque below 2000rpm. The car was transformed. The throttle response off idle was amazing, the fuel economy better and the top end went from 4500rpm to about 5200rpm. In short everywhere was better except cold running. Cold running was dreadful. Every day on the same route to work it cut out 14x in winter. It took half an hour for the cutting out to stop but I think that was probably loose advance weight springs in conjunction with the cold intake causing that because after I put a new dizzy in it that all got a lot better ie it would only cut out about 5x lol. The throttle response was so good you could just punch the gas pedal to the floor and it would go. None of this feeding it in BS. I had a drag with a Buick Riviera with a 455 and it beat it to 60ft ROFL - that's how tractable it was but no match for for the 'ole boat-tail. Yeah 4 into 1s can be good. I ended up fitting a 383 with a Thermoquad on the factory iron intake in that Dart, then a dual quad 440 then back to the 383 and TQ. 440 was awesome but I should've kept it closer to mild instead of wild. Made daily driving expensive and I towed a heavy trailer from time to time on long trips so being young and stupid I didn't really think the whole thing through very well. Rather than change out the cam and intake I sold it for heaps of $$$$s to a guy who wanted it for is 70 Charger so back went in the 383. Towing anything with 10.5:1 comp isn't a good idea. I discovered why gas truck engines often have low comp.
I can also remember doing a Dodge pickup truck with a 318, years ago. We installed a four barrel and a small cam, along with the four tube headers. It certainly was transformed like you described, Paul. But unless factory exhaust setup is incredibly bad, what I should clarify is that good exhaust manifolds and a good dual exhaust will not be outperformed on the bottom end by long-tubes or short tubes. Tri-Ys maybe, but there's not many. Small block Ford guys would know. Headers make the vehicle LOUD off the line and create an illusion. If I can find Dyno tests that go low, or some other way to argue it empirically, I'll do a video. There certainly seem to be some needed about sub- 3,000 RPM performance in general, since that's where we all street-drive most of the time. Especially with our trucks.
Hey Brutha I've personally owned from 1965 to 75 Olds 442 and the W-30 in 75 but when I was looking to improve my performance I tossed the Boat anchor intake manifold that has got to be the worlds lowest V8 intake in history good for not a whole bunch .. so get rid of it and also get ride of the almost 80 LBS worth of heft the exhaust manifolds put on the front end you can go with Doug's Tri Y or really any other brand and of course get them in the Jet Hot coating and lower your under hood temps significantly . I've had everything from the 330 inch motor to the 455 I've even had motors out of Tornados ...they all respond well to cam intake and exhaust upgrades ....
The EGR pumps exhaust gasses in the intake manifold to reburn them in the combustion chamders. It does not pass exhaust gasses from one head to the other.
The EGR Valve does not work in the manner that you described, it recirculates, exhaust gas into the intake to reduce NOX, it's apart of the emission circuit, the exhaust gas that passes underneath the intake is for (EFE) or Early Fuel Evaporation, blocking off the EGR Valve will do nothing, you have to block the ports off at the heads, there's a EFE Valve that closes on cold start up that force exhaust gases thru, the crossover, then opens as the engine warms up.
@@ShawnStjean I heard clearly what you said guy, I was explaining to you what's what, you said @2:55 the EGR Valve passes gas underneath the intake to heat up the Carburetor......FALSE, the purpose of the EGR Valve is solely to reduce the NOX in the emission gasses, it only operates on deceleration. @4:26, you begin to explain the operation of the EFE circuit, which it only works when the engine is cold, the exhaust crossover is only effective when it has a Heat Riser Valve that closes on startup via a Thermal Vacuum Ported Switch; the heat stove that is located on the manifold heats incoming cold air into the breather in cold weather and the door is shut after the thermac in the breather is satisfied; gasoline has a lower flash point so it is heated up to evaporate early on cold startup.......... that is the purpose !! Know what you're talking about, and don't assume others are misunderstood. @6:06 You are talking about fuel atomization and vaporization, in no way is there liquid fuel in the intake unless it's flooded !! 2ndly, when gas goes through the venturi in the carb, it's already atomized into vapor.
W-30 exhaust manifolds are a factory tuned header ..to block the heat under the carburetor is 15 Extra horsepower.. another trick is the center simanise exhaust ports have a slight dip where the exhaust bolts to the head weld that area flush so the center exhaust ports are separated another 5-7 horsepower... Big block F heads are the marine heads the best other than that are C heads for small block the number 4 heads from 1967. 330 ci motor or 70 W-31 heads I can't remember the number for them but the 330 heads are just as good with a little work... Put it this way the '70 W-31 350 had 325HP THE '67 330 had 320 HP trick the 330 heads & put the W-31 grind cam and presto plus a forged crankshaft...that will interchange find some 403 connecting rods clean them up and shot peen them you got yourself a nice little street killer...that motor can make over 400+ HP...
someone here may have a specific number. In the case of Olds, Edelbrock included a pair of cast iron slugs to keep exhaust heat out of the manifold crossover with its RPM manifolds. They can melt, or at least buckle: aluminum has a much lower boiling point than iron (1220 deg F vs 2100 deg). Pistons can be melted in a skillet over a burner. ALSO, aluminum rejects heat at 4x the rate of cast iron, so once you bolt on an aftermarket intake, you are sending much more heat directly into the carb--last thing you want for performance. A phenolic or wooden spacer helps, but the studs can still conduct. In general, for performance, cool the induction system as much as possible, even the fuel lines, as well as the underhood air.
Sorry, looks like your question got cut off. I seem to recall Vizard writing in the '80s that the only drawback to a 4-muffler system (Cadillac made good ones in those days) was weight. The flow amounted to zero-net-loss. Of course, today some are rated by flow cfm. 1000 cfm (500x2) is more than any street car needs. But the exhaust manifolds should always be the best that will fit the chassis. And if a cam with more than say 35 degrees of overlap is used, a header starts to pay dividends above 2000 rpms. But if a stock-type cam is retained, a performance cast iron manifold can be a better bet for torque.
Of course he kept the q jet he knows what's up ! These kids today have no idea what a good carb is they figure if they take it out of the box and it works it's good lmao then they say well it worked better than my old q jet a little bit . Good Lord Sonny that q jet has been on that engine for 30 years God knows how many tanks of fuel went thru it and dirt and God knows what else and your new fancy 450.00 dollar Edelbrock is only a little better wow I'm no rocket scientist but that says a whole hell of a lot to me about the quality of the q jets over the Carter afb yeah that's right Sonny Edelbrock did not design that carb they bought it and would rather have bought the rights to remanufacture q jets if they could have you can bet in it they are far superior overall than a Holley or a carter afb edbrock copy hell you may as well go get a thermoquad than the Edelbrock they are about the same in the way of quality lol ok maybe that's too much there but the minute something seems a little complicated oh it's a POS and bogs etc etc I can't tell you how many hundreds of times I've changed people's whole perspective on them by explaining how well they actually are and making a couple of small adjustments never even removing it from the car and all of a sudden wow this thing rips it's got a lot to do with how you hit it too you don't go full throttle right from go it's a small feeling in the foot if you get it down you'll outrun everything with a carter carb and get a lot better fuel milage too as a daily bet
I appreciate guys who make videos to inform people about how things work but you're way off base with your info. The intake manifold exhaust crossover is a system that has been used since the 1930's or '40's for cold driveablilty. It keeps the throttle plates from icing and acts in concert with the choke so the engine doesn't spit and sputter when it's first started and the outside air temp is 15 degrees. That's why for many years they used a thermostatic coil and a butterfly valve on one exhaust manifold to force warm exhaust through the intake manifold exhaust crossover. When warmed up the valve opens and very little exhaust flows through the crossover. The EGR valve was federally mandated on all passenger cars starting in 1973 and it directs exhaust gas back into the intake side of the manifold, through the tubes you removed as you stated correctly, but not to heat things up. Spent exhaust gases in the combustion chamber actually cool the chamber and combustion process and reduce oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust stream. The EGR valve is hooked to ported engine vacuum and only operates at cruise speeds when the vacuum is at it's highest in theory. But unfortunately before the advent of electronic EGR solenoids and then finally electronic EGR valves the vacuum would often get high enough at idle or low speed operation and cause driveablity issues. Getting rid of the system is a good idea if it's legal in your state and blocking the exhaust crossover does help make a little more power as the incoming air charge can be a little cooler but it also causes cold driveablity issues. Thanks for the video but you might do a little research on how and what an EGR valve does exactly if you don't want to take my word for it.
I don' recall saying anything about what an EGR is supposed to do. What it does do, from a performance standpoint, is dilute the intake charge and compromise power potential, as well as add heat which is unnecessary to hot rodders who don't care about cold drivability, and would prefer the densest possible A/F mixture, rich with oxygen and not carbon monoxide. As shown by the most up-to-date aftermarket manifolds, the exhaust crossover is unwanted in such an application. We drive on the street with these things, but rarely in winter. You are more concerned with a stock-type application. Hell, I don't even use a choke, which has caused trouble more often than most realize, and can lose a race for you.
I have an electronic controlled 307 in my 87 Fleetwood brougham. Sluggish car but I love the way it drives on the roads.
My intake gaskets went, so I pulled it off.
I took those pipes out, cut them flush with the hex, and welded them shut.
Also have removed old heat choke for electric, and am not using the egr.
We shall see how it went , haven't driven it yet! Lol
Let us know. Take a look at the exhaust, I suspect you may run a little rich. Remember the induction, whether it's a carburetor or some kind of throttle body, is designed for that heat to vaporize the fuel. When you take it away, car may run a little tougher and dirtier. I would use the old vacuum gauge method to a adjust
EGR only works at high manifold vacuum - about the same time as vac advance on the dizzy starts working. It lowers combustion temperature by adding a bit of exhaust to reduce oxides of nitrogen. A side benefit is it reduces light load detonation allowing perhaps more vac advance and therefore better light load fuel economy. That's all when it works. If it sticks open then it a big bloody problem, but if it sticks shut then it's not much of a problem - motor could rattle a bit going from cruise to a higher throttle position as the vac advnce comes off.
EGR doesn't usually work at idle or full throttle. Blocking it off is a good idea for performance not because of the recirculating exhaust but because of the intake is cooler. Some motors realize a big performance gain from a cooler intake bottom, others not so much.
Re headers, I don't know about 4 into 1s reducing bottom end torque. Maybe they do on some motors I dunno..
I had a bone stock 1970 318 with a stinkin' Ball & Ball/Carter factory 2bbl on it and crappy exhaust manifolds and put some 4 into 1s on it and I reckon the thing picked up about 60ft/lbs torque below 2000rpm. The car was transformed. The throttle response off idle was amazing, the fuel economy better and the top end went from 4500rpm to about 5200rpm. In short everywhere was better except cold running. Cold running was dreadful. Every day on the same route to work it cut out 14x in winter. It took half an hour for the cutting out to stop but I think that was probably loose advance weight springs in conjunction with the cold intake causing that because after I put a new dizzy in it that all got a lot better ie it would only cut out about 5x lol.
The throttle response was so good you could just punch the gas pedal to the floor and it would go. None of this feeding it in BS. I had a drag with a Buick Riviera with a 455 and it beat it to 60ft ROFL - that's how tractable it was but no match for for the 'ole boat-tail.
Yeah 4 into 1s can be good. I ended up fitting a 383 with a Thermoquad on the factory iron intake in that Dart, then a dual quad 440 then back to the 383 and TQ. 440 was awesome but I should've kept it closer to mild instead of wild. Made daily driving expensive and I towed a heavy trailer from time to time on long trips so being young and stupid I didn't really think the whole thing through very well. Rather than change out the cam and intake I sold it for heaps of $$$$s to a guy who wanted it for is 70 Charger so back went in the 383.
Towing anything with 10.5:1 comp isn't a good idea. I discovered why gas truck engines often have low comp.
I can also remember doing a Dodge pickup truck with a 318, years ago. We installed a four barrel and a small cam, along with the four tube headers. It certainly was transformed like you described, Paul. But unless factory exhaust setup is incredibly bad, what I should clarify is that good exhaust manifolds and a good dual exhaust will not be outperformed on the bottom end by long-tubes or short tubes. Tri-Ys maybe, but there's not many. Small block Ford guys would know. Headers make the vehicle LOUD off the line and create an illusion. If I can find Dyno tests that go low, or some other way to argue it empirically, I'll do a video. There certainly seem to be some needed about sub- 3,000 RPM performance in general, since that's where we all street-drive most of the time. Especially with our trucks.
Hey Brutha I've personally owned from 1965 to 75 Olds 442 and the W-30 in 75 but when I was looking to improve my performance I tossed the Boat anchor intake manifold that has got to be the worlds lowest V8 intake in history good for not a whole bunch .. so get rid of it and also get ride of the almost 80 LBS worth of heft the exhaust manifolds put on the front end you can go with Doug's Tri Y or really any other brand and of course get them in the Jet Hot coating and lower your under hood temps significantly . I've had everything from the 330 inch motor to the 455 I've even had motors out of Tornados ...they all respond well to cam intake and exhaust upgrades ....
Performer RPM is like a skyscraper compared to a Toro intake. Though w/z exhaust manifolds are what we prefer for street cars around here.
The EGR pumps exhaust gasses in the intake manifold to reburn them in the combustion chamders. It does not pass exhaust gasses from one head to the other.
Those olds manifolds would be perfect for a turbo setup 👌
I see what you mean. We stick to NA and low rpms down here
The EGR Valve does not work in the manner that you described, it recirculates, exhaust gas into the intake to reduce NOX, it's apart of the emission circuit, the exhaust gas that passes underneath the intake is for (EFE) or Early Fuel Evaporation, blocking off the EGR Valve will do nothing, you have to block the ports off at the heads, there's a EFE Valve that closes on cold start up that force exhaust gases thru, the crossover, then opens as the engine warms up.
You guys hear what you want to hear, apparently. I described the function of the crossover. I really had nothing to say about EGR.
@@ShawnStjean I heard clearly what you said guy, I was explaining to you what's what, you said @2:55 the EGR Valve passes gas underneath the intake to heat up the Carburetor......FALSE, the purpose of the EGR Valve is solely to reduce the NOX in the emission gasses, it only operates on deceleration. @4:26, you begin to explain the operation of the EFE circuit, which it only works when the engine is cold, the exhaust crossover is only effective when it has a Heat Riser Valve that closes on startup via a Thermal Vacuum Ported Switch; the heat stove that is located on the manifold heats incoming cold air into the breather in cold weather and the door is shut after the thermac in the breather is satisfied; gasoline has a lower flash point so it is heated up to evaporate early on cold startup.......... that is the purpose !! Know what you're talking about, and don't assume others are misunderstood. @6:06 You are talking about fuel atomization and vaporization, in no way is there liquid fuel in the intake unless it's flooded !! 2ndly, when gas goes through the venturi in the carb, it's already atomized into vapor.
W-30 exhaust manifolds are a factory tuned header ..to block the heat under the carburetor is 15 Extra horsepower.. another trick is the center simanise exhaust ports have a slight dip where the exhaust bolts to the head weld that area flush so the center exhaust ports are separated another 5-7 horsepower... Big block F heads are the marine heads the best other than that are C heads for small block the number 4 heads from 1967. 330 ci motor or 70 W-31 heads I can't remember the number for them but the 330 heads are just as good with a little work... Put it this way the '70 W-31 350 had 325HP
THE '67 330 had 320 HP trick the 330 heads & put the W-31 grind cam and presto plus a forged crankshaft...that will interchange find some 403 connecting rods clean them up and shot peen them you got yourself a nice little street killer...that motor can make over 400+ HP...
W30 manifolds are anything but a factory tuned header and cost 40hp..
why is your distributer on backwards
What brand aluminum intake manifold do you recommend for an Oldsmobile 350 or 455
Currently the Edelbrock performer RPM. The 68 through 72 Cutlass should have the hood clearance. As for the 403 trans am and other cars, better check.
Holley street dominator
Where did you get that gas can? Marine?
Where dis you get the chrome valve covers ?
Ebay
How hot should the intake manifold get by the carburetor? I have a 455 olds and my heat gun was telling me it was 500 +
someone here may have a specific number. In the case of Olds, Edelbrock included a pair of cast iron slugs to keep exhaust heat out of the manifold crossover with its RPM manifolds. They can melt, or at least buckle: aluminum has a much lower boiling point than iron (1220 deg F vs 2100 deg). Pistons can be melted in a skillet over a burner. ALSO, aluminum rejects heat at 4x the rate of cast iron, so once you bolt on an aftermarket intake, you are sending much more heat directly into the carb--last thing you want for performance. A phenolic or wooden spacer helps, but the studs can still conduct. In general, for performance, cool the induction system as much as possible, even the fuel lines, as well as the underhood air.
What if instead of dual exhaust you go with quad exhaust? Have
Sorry, looks like your question got cut off. I seem to recall Vizard writing in the '80s that the only drawback to a 4-muffler system (Cadillac made good ones in those days) was weight. The flow amounted to zero-net-loss. Of course, today some are rated by flow cfm. 1000 cfm (500x2) is more than any street car needs. But the exhaust manifolds should always be the best that will fit the chassis. And if a cam with more than say 35 degrees of overlap is used, a header starts to pay dividends above 2000 rpms. But if a stock-type cam is retained, a performance cast iron manifold can be a better bet for torque.
Great to see you kept the Quadrajet. Right On!
Of course he kept the q jet he knows what's up ! These kids today have no idea what a good carb is they figure if they take it out of the box and it works it's good lmao then they say well it worked better than my old q jet a little bit . Good Lord Sonny that q jet has been on that engine for 30 years God knows how many tanks of fuel went thru it and dirt and God knows what else and your new fancy 450.00 dollar Edelbrock is only a little better wow I'm no rocket scientist but that says a whole hell of a lot to me about the quality of the q jets over the Carter afb yeah that's right Sonny Edelbrock did not design that carb they bought it and would rather have bought the rights to remanufacture q jets if they could have you can bet in it they are far superior overall than a Holley or a carter afb edbrock copy hell you may as well go get a thermoquad than the Edelbrock they are about the same in the way of quality lol ok maybe that's too much there but the minute something seems a little complicated oh it's a POS and bogs etc etc I can't tell you how many hundreds of times I've changed people's whole perspective on them by explaining how well they actually are and making a couple of small adjustments never even removing it from the car and all of a sudden wow this thing rips it's got a lot to do with how you hit it too you don't go full throttle right from go it's a small feeling in the foot if you get it down you'll outrun everything with a carter carb and get a lot better fuel milage too as a daily bet
I appreciate guys who make videos to inform people about how things work but you're way off base with your info. The intake manifold exhaust crossover is a system that has been used since the 1930's or '40's for cold driveablilty. It keeps the throttle plates from icing and acts in concert with the choke so the engine doesn't spit and sputter when it's first started and the outside air temp is 15 degrees. That's why for many years they used a thermostatic coil and a butterfly valve on one exhaust manifold to force warm exhaust through the intake manifold exhaust crossover. When warmed up the valve opens and very little exhaust flows through the crossover. The EGR valve was federally mandated on all passenger cars starting in 1973 and it directs exhaust gas back into the intake side of the manifold, through the tubes you removed as you stated correctly, but not to heat things up. Spent exhaust gases in the combustion chamber actually cool the chamber and combustion process and reduce oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust stream. The EGR valve is hooked to ported engine vacuum and only operates at cruise speeds when the vacuum is at it's highest in theory. But unfortunately before the advent of electronic EGR solenoids and then finally electronic EGR valves the vacuum would often get high enough at idle or low speed operation and cause driveablity issues. Getting rid of the system is a good idea if it's legal in your state and blocking the exhaust crossover does help make a little more power as the incoming air charge can be a little cooler but it also causes cold driveablity issues. Thanks for the video but you might do a little research on how and what an EGR valve does exactly if you don't want to take my word for it.
I don' recall saying anything about what an EGR is supposed to do. What it does do, from a performance standpoint, is dilute the intake charge and compromise power potential, as well as add heat which is unnecessary to hot rodders who don't care about cold drivability, and would prefer the densest possible A/F mixture, rich with oxygen and not carbon monoxide. As shown by the most up-to-date aftermarket manifolds, the exhaust crossover is unwanted in such an application. We drive on the street with these things, but rarely in winter. You are more concerned with a stock-type application. Hell, I don't even use a choke, which has caused trouble more often than most realize, and can lose a race for you.