Loving this series. I've never seen a hand saw cut like that! Congratulations on your first knife!! That's something I've been wanting to get into myself! Can't wait to see more.
Ya, that’s a saw and a half. A little beeswax on the blade will help. Plus looks like your forcing it a bit. Plus your guy who sharpens your saws is doing a good job for you.
It was higher point to start sawing, the thumb hole we used as a reverse oversaw. I did notice you used two hand as well. I sharpen plus set all my saws. The orange handle is a hard tip saw, which we did not sharpen.
Great overview, thanks. Did Disston have a factory in Canada? That saw made short work of that board. I just picked up a D8 rip, 5.5 tpi, for a few bucks. Its a newer looking one with steel screws and beech handle, so I almost put it back, but then noticed the thumbhole and BAM! Its the ripsaw I'd been looking for. Excited to tune it up and try it. I've sharpened a few saws with decent results. Do a bit of research and you'll be fine.
A few things: a "panel saw" is between 16" and 24" in length; a 26" saw, such as yours, is NOT a panel saw. More importantly, the model D-8 is NOT at the top of the Disston line. The D-115, the 120 and the D-12 are all higher-end saws than the D-8. Also, a closer reading of the literature at the website you mention, will reveal that your saw is post-1928 -- that's the year the logo design changed.
I agree. The D-8 was the most sold saw but not Disston's best. I own a D-12 & a D-112. The difference being that the D-12 was straight back, the 112 a skew back. That is a Canadian Disston probably around 1950. All in all I have 25 Disstons. One of which is a "one son" tenon saw from around 1860 I believe as the medallion says just H.Disston with the eagle. The Back of the saw is stamped H. Disston and son. I have a beautiful early D-8 26" crosscut that is 12 ppi!! This would have been a special order from Disston and I have dated it at around 1880. Eric from the "Disstonian institute" seemed to think the same. Dave.
Awsome. I am envious. I realy want a good rip saw but alass budget means i will have to keep looking at the market stalls and car boot sales. Keep up the good work. BTW I assume you recut the teath yourself?
Nice panel saw! You mention at 00:03:56 how the graduated teeth layout provides closer front teeth to aid when starting a cut, yet all your sample cuts in the 2x4 (e.g. 00:08:30) are started on the back teeth. Try to not be so eager to give it all she's got. It's gonna send it! Just channel Paul Sellers for the first few runs of the blade for a laser-straight cut.
I'm impressed! The cutting power is amazing. Great tool to have in your arsenal. Lol at the Wilson reference. Love your knife. What grade steel did you use for your knife. We were thinking of building our own as a winter project.
Thanks guys! This saw is amazing for sure. I used carbon springsteel, 5160, and its great. Give it a try! It's a blast, but a bit of a struggle to get into
For dating the saw.. www.disstonianinstitute.com/medv2.html Not need to be scared bout sharpening, I was a little hesitant at first. Grab a junk saw and go at it worse case you end up with some cabinet scrapper material. Check out Paul Sellers videos first. Everyone's videos make seem way more difficult than it is. The most important thing is PATIENCE
Are there teeth on the rounded nose of the saw as well as on the tooth line? What is the make of saw, does it have a medallion? Is it an open or closed handle? I had a 20- 1/2" bladed Disston, most probably cut down to fit a tool box. Sacrilege! But it used to happen. It is difficult to answer you without more information. I take it that the handle is wooden? Could be a floorboard saw. Dave.
Yes I was going to saw Apple as well. Been looking at a lot of beech up close lately. It does have these specks in it. Kinda like Oak's ray flecks. But this wood looks very homogeneous, smooth grain. Apple is supposed to look similar to cherry.
Definitely apple. Disston exhausted its supply of apple wood by 1947. They switched to beech, birch, and cherry after the late forties, with beech being more commonly used. Apple is similar to cherry but slightly harder and a little more dark red in colour. The medallion on your saw dates it later than 1917. I have a D8 that was manufactured between 1911 and 1928. Its a fine saw that you will enjoy using.
There is no such thing as 5.5 PPI. Blacksmiths have been making saws since the bronze age and even up to Roman times the teeth were hand cut. They have always, back into the mists of time been measured one way for good reason. Saws have never been measured in TPI or how far it is between successive teeth. Saws are measured by putting any whole inch mark on a rule next to any Point of a tooth you have marked in case you slightly move the rule while you are looking along it. This reference tooth's Point you count as ONE. You then count along to see how many Points touch the rule before the next inch mark is reached. This means that saws can ONLY be measured in INTEGERS which, as you may see are sometimes stamped into the blade. You do NOT count the Point at either end like some people play with ladders (are you counting rungs or spaces?) If you count 7 Points including the first and the eighth Point is just outside the next inch mark on the rule then the saw is a 7, even though if you tried to measure the distance between the teeth you would get almost an eighth of an inch. As it is "almost" that makes it a 7. This is more than accurate enough to know from the number what the saw will cut like, and which one to buy.
No amigo,... el serrucho es de 8" porque ud . Debe poner la pulgada en el angulo de corte del serrucho entre el primer y ultimo diente de la pulgada y seguir el angulo de corte del serrucho y da 8"
The D8 is not the top of yhe disston line The 12s, victory saws and Acme 120s were all higher quality disston saws And the orange handled saw is cutting like crap. Look how much it veers to the right Look how much straighter the D8 is cutting. Do not misunderstand. The D8 is a VERY good saw. Just not the top of the Disston line
Man, your technique sucks, never push a saw thru the wood like that start a cut lightly pushing forward never drag back to start like your doing, clean the steel then wax it for sure
it was like a bull in a china shop, but he has enthusiasm, which is good, but has not been shown by someone with experience, I think he could find someone who knows and shows, on youtube, let the saw do the work.
What a difference - WOW And you did a good job trying to use the whole saw too, it will make it wear evenly, will prolong its life.
That rip saw is a monster! Made light work of that timber.
Love the old disstons, I just purchased 2 bad axe D8s one rip and one crosscut.. they are amazing 👍😊
Loving this series. I've never seen a hand saw cut like that! Congratulations on your first knife!! That's something I've been wanting to get into myself! Can't wait to see more.
Amazing isn't it? I never thought a saw could do that!
Great video! Good to see someone who appreciates quality hand tools!
I certainly do Bruce! Thanks!
Ya, that’s a saw and a half. A little beeswax on the blade will help. Plus looks like your forcing it a bit. Plus your guy who sharpens your saws is doing a good job for you.
Glad I stayed to the end what a gorgeous knife you made!
Muito bom gostei aqui no Brasil não tem um serrote que preste Parabéns 👍👍
I just bought a different Disston D-8 just this morning. really looking forward to using it now!
Damn, that thing sounds like a motorbike on that first backstroke! Or a chainsaw, or a giant angry dog..
Great job Kyle. Love your videos, very informative.
Gorgeous saw!
Great video!
And I like the shine on your new knife. Good job!
It was higher point to start sawing, the thumb hole we used as a reverse oversaw.
I did notice you used two hand as well.
I sharpen plus set all my saws.
The orange handle is a hard tip saw, which we did not sharpen.
I just picked a D8 2 days ago RIP to go with my D12(I think it was) crosscut and am VERY happy with my disston set!
Great overview, thanks. Did Disston have a factory in Canada?
That saw made short work of that board.
I just picked up a D8 rip, 5.5 tpi, for a few bucks. Its a newer looking one with steel screws and beech handle, so I almost put it back, but then noticed the thumbhole and BAM! Its the ripsaw I'd been looking for. Excited to tune it up and try it.
I've sharpened a few saws with decent results. Do a bit of research and you'll be fine.
great looking saw it just pounds through the wood.great looking knife
Thanks Wallace!
Great informative video. I’m just starting to get into woodworking. I just picked up my first Disston R.I.P. saw
I was lucky enough to find a d-8 that was sharpened by a master then painted by a noob.
A few things: a "panel saw" is between 16" and 24" in length; a 26" saw, such as yours, is NOT a panel saw.
More importantly, the model D-8 is NOT at the top of the Disston line. The D-115, the 120 and the D-12 are all higher-end saws than the D-8.
Also, a closer reading of the literature at the website you mention, will reveal that your saw is post-1928 -- that's the year the logo design changed.
I agree. The D-8 was the most sold saw but not Disston's best. I own a D-12 & a D-112. The difference being that the D-12 was straight back, the 112 a skew back. That is a Canadian Disston probably around 1950. All in all I have 25 Disstons. One of which is a "one son" tenon saw from around 1860 I believe as the medallion says just H.Disston with the eagle. The Back of the saw is stamped H. Disston and son. I have a beautiful early D-8 26" crosscut that is 12 ppi!! This would have been a special order from Disston and I have dated it at around 1880. Eric from the "Disstonian institute" seemed to think the same.
Dave.
Awsome. I am envious. I realy want a good rip saw but alass budget means i will have to keep looking at the market stalls and car boot sales. Keep up the good work. BTW I assume you recut the teath yourself?
Beauty saw. Saws are something I have also never attempted to sharpen, nice first knife too! What's the steel?
Nice video Mr. Wilson!
Nice panel saw! You mention at 00:03:56 how the graduated teeth layout provides closer front teeth to aid when starting a cut, yet all your sample cuts in the 2x4 (e.g. 00:08:30) are started on the back teeth. Try to not be so eager to give it all she's got. It's gonna send it! Just channel Paul Sellers for the first few runs of the blade for a laser-straight cut.
Oh yeah, you’ll likely never warp a Disston blade. Maybe if you carelessly store it under your car wheel or something. Lol
I'm impressed! The cutting power is amazing. Great tool to have in your arsenal. Lol at the Wilson reference. Love your knife. What grade steel did you use for your knife. We were thinking of building our own as a winter project.
Thanks guys! This saw is amazing for sure. I used carbon springsteel, 5160, and its great. Give it a try! It's a blast, but a bit of a struggle to get into
I have a Diston D 8 found it in an estate sale 4.00 American.
Where's the video of you making that knife?
Great job. are you going to make knives for sale later, maybe a nice bushcraft knife?
Hey Bryan! That's the plan, yes! I already have 3 of these skinners preordered. A bushcraft model is in production currently as well!
For dating the saw..
www.disstonianinstitute.com/medv2.html
Not need to be scared bout sharpening, I was a little hesitant at first. Grab a junk saw and go at it worse case you end up with some cabinet scrapper material. Check out Paul Sellers videos first. Everyone's videos make seem way more difficult than it is. The most important thing is PATIENCE
THANKYOU...DID ANYONE EVER TELL YOU THAT YOU HAVE BEAUTIFUL NAILS?...ON YOUR HANDS, NOT NAILS FOR CARPENTRY...;)
Always start saw cuts on the push stroke don't drag it back like that unless of course your using a Japanese saw
Your a Newfoundland version of wrangelstar, love it
haha thanks Ivan! I love Wranglerstar, so that's a great compliment for me.
Kyle Noseworthy - Weiderfan I love wrangelstar too and I really love your channel also , now if I could only sharpen knives as good as you
Can someone here help me? I got a saw today. Short..maybe 16 inches. Short and fat. With a round over nose. Trying to find out what it was used for
Are there teeth on the rounded nose of the saw as well as on the tooth line? What is the make of saw, does it have a medallion? Is it an open or closed handle? I had a 20- 1/2" bladed Disston, most probably cut down to fit a tool box. Sacrilege! But it used to happen. It is difficult to answer you without more information. I take it that the handle is wooden? Could be a floorboard saw.
Dave.
@@davesheppard8797 teeth are only on the bottom flat side. Wooden handle. Can't find a name. I can send u a pic
@@davechlad9539 ok, that would be good.
Almost sure that's apple Wood
Think? I think so too!
Kyle Noseworthy - Weiderfan yes beech has little black specs in the grain and apple doesn't. Also apple was used a lot more for that style D8
Yes I was going to saw Apple as well. Been looking at a lot of beech up close lately. It does have these specks in it. Kinda like Oak's ray flecks. But this wood looks very homogeneous, smooth grain. Apple is supposed to look similar to cherry.
Definitely apple. Disston exhausted its supply of apple wood by 1947. They switched to beech, birch, and cherry after the late forties, with beech being more commonly used. Apple is similar to cherry but slightly harder and a little more dark red in colour. The medallion on your saw dates it later than 1917. I have a D8 that was manufactured between 1911 and 1928. Its a fine saw that you will enjoy using.
There is no such thing as 5.5 PPI.
Blacksmiths have been making saws since the bronze age and even up to
Roman times the teeth were hand cut. They have always, back into the
mists of time been measured one way for good reason.
Saws have never been measured in TPI or how far it is between successive
teeth.
Saws are measured by putting any whole inch mark on a rule next to any
Point of a tooth you have marked in case you slightly move the rule
while you are looking along it. This reference tooth's Point you count
as ONE. You then count along to see how many Points touch the rule
before the next inch mark is reached. This means that saws can ONLY be
measured in INTEGERS which, as you may see are sometimes stamped
into the blade. You do NOT count the Point at either end like some
people play with ladders (are you counting rungs or spaces?)
If you count 7 Points including the first and the eighth Point is just
outside the next inch mark on the rule then the saw is a 7, even though
if you tried to measure the distance between the teeth you would get
almost an eighth of an inch. As it is "almost" that makes it a 7. This
is more than accurate enough to know from the number what the saw will
cut like, and which one to buy.
Look up on the Disstonian institute. 7 teeth equals 8 points to the inch! I have both 4 1/2 & 5 1/2 point Disston saws.
No amigo,... el serrucho es de 8" porque ud . Debe poner la pulgada en el angulo de corte del serrucho entre el primer y ultimo diente de la pulgada y seguir el angulo de corte del serrucho y da 8"
The D8 is not the top of yhe disston line
The 12s, victory saws and Acme 120s were all higher quality disston saws
And the orange handled saw is cutting like crap. Look how much it veers to the right
Look how much straighter the D8 is cutting. Do not misunderstand. The D8 is a VERY good saw. Just not the top of the Disston line
Man, your technique sucks, never push a saw thru the wood like that start a cut lightly pushing forward never drag back to start like your doing, clean the steel then wax it for sure
it was like a bull in a china shop, but he has enthusiasm, which is good, but has not been shown by someone with experience, I think he could find someone who knows and shows, on youtube, let the saw do the work.