Peuterey Integral Ridge - Mont Blanc
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- Julius Najm & Jon Murua
Mont Blanc via the Peuterey Integral Ridge
3 day expedition for the longest ridge climbing in Europe
Date: 20.7.2020
Rock climbing, mixed climbing and ice climbing.
A fantastic combination for a hardcore alpine route.
24km and 4,500m of altitude gain to reach 4810m
Cormayeur
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
Dames Anglaise
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
Col de Peuterey
Grand Pilier d'Angle
Mont Blanc du Cormayeur
Mont Blanc
... and the descend via the 3 monts route:
Mont Maudit
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Aiguille du Midi
Chamonix
Brilliant footage of a great climb. Wish I could go back thirty years and do it. Well done to you both.
Simply epic! Thanks for sharing.
Un sueño para cualquier alpinista. Enhorabuena
Sick dude! That's a dream climb for me. Thanks for the video.
What a CLIMB!!! YOU ARE AMAZING GUYS!!!!!
Thank you!
That was a super fun climb
Magnifique, quelle course !
Nice, Jon! Well done! This one is so high on my list!
Thanks a lot for capturing this amazing climb! Perhaps you could include a bit more info about the route next time, e.g. by showing a schema of the route from time to time, with a dot to mark your progression? It would help understand what's happening even better
Thanks Olivier for the input.
I'll edit another version of this climb. Shorter, more dynamic and with some explanations 👌🏻
@@jonmuruawhat rope length did you used
@@finngornik5558 2x50m, but 1x 60m would be better with the new rappel lines
@@jonmurua thanks
gorgeous
Very long end hard, congratulations. ;)
Now that is a climb!
Jon Murua? Yes, I do!!!
FÉLICITATIONS Maestro Murua !!! Belle performance, belle avventure !!! CHAPEAU !!!
!!!!!!!!!!!
LE VIDEO est FANTASTIQUE!!!!!!!! Chapeau!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Trois questions si possible:
Excusez moi pour la tradution aproximative!!
La crête sud de l'Aiguille Noire est-elle bien boulonnée ou y a-t-il peu de clous sur le parcours?
La descente en rappel de l'Aïuguille Noire est-elle évidente? les arrêts sont faciles à trouver
À quelle distance (plus ou moins) se trouvent les arrêts entre eux lors de la descente en rappel depuis le sommet de la Noire? 30-35-40 mètres?
Par ARRETS, je veux dire où il y a deux SPIT et un cordon et un maillon Rapide
Merci beaucoup pour vos réponses et cordiales salutations et meilleurs voeux
Merci Luigi,
L'arête sud de la Noire a quelques pitons dans la voie, mais c'est plutôt à protéger avec des friends. L'itinéraire au début n'est pas évident mais après c'est plus facile à trouver.
La ligne de rappels de la Noire a été très bien équipée. Une ligne tout droit avec un bon relais chaque 30 mètres. Une corde double de 60 metres pourrait être suffisant pour cette route.
@@jonmurua Merci Beaucoup Master Morua pour votre reponse!!! Vous êtes non seulement très bon (grand alpiniste) Vous êtes très gentil !!! BRAVO!!!
Je m'excuse pour mes erreurs: l'arret égal à RELAIS, clous égal à PITONS:
Merci encore et meilleurs voeux pour d'autres belles et grandes ascensions!!!!
Cordialement:
Gigi.
Vaya Santo Tomás te has pegado Jon grandeee
Haha, el año que viene celebramos el Santo Tomás y las regatas para recuperar ;)
Fantastic effort and great video. I have a question: Why does your partner have a different backpack on the descent?
Well spotted!
The descend was recorded the previous week, when we climbed the Mont Blanc from the Kuffner Ridge.
I run out of battery when climbing the Peuterey ridge unfortunately.
Very nice Jon! At 13:43 are we hearing the 2 brits that made newspaper headlines?...
That's right!
@@jonmurua I knew it!
Can i know how did u organized the trip?how many days and where did u sleep?
2 days and half.
First night at the top of l'Aiguille Noir and second night at the col de Peuterey.
Some people do it in 2 really long days with a single night at Craveri, but I thought that was too much.
There are many topos that describe the route and many online blogs as well as camptocamp.
Hey Jon a big fan of your adventures, what happened finally with the finger of your friend? Greetings from Greece
Hello! I'm glad you like them :)
My friend got the finger smashed with a rock, but it wasn't broken in the end. A bit of care and he started back climbing a couple of weeks later.
Cheers!
climbing marathon :-))
Impressive video. Is your partner OK? Hope he didn't lose his finger.
Thank you.
He's ok, the finger got smashed with a rock, but it wasn't broken in the end and he recovered well in a couple of weeks
Nice video. Thanks the effort to film and share. Did you experienced some difficulties in route finding? Are the rappel stations on the nord side of Aiguille noir easy to find? Thanks 🙏
Route finding in the first half of La Noir and around Dames Anglaises was tricky. The mixed section to GPA was an anarchy, everybody took a different route. The rappels are straight forward with no traverses and easy to find
C'est sympa d'avoir mis les rappels de la noire et du maudit Vous aviez des cordes de 50m ?
Très sympa effectivement :)
On aviez des cordes de 60m, mais en principe avec 50m c'est possible, par contre on s'est perdu dans un rappel autour des dames anglaises et on a fait un rappel de 60m...
Great job! What descent did you take?
The 3 Monts Route (Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc du Tacul, Aiguille du Midi)
Gran via, un sueño! Quizas puedas añadir algo de info sobre litros de agua llevabais, cartuchos gas, el dia que os parecio mas largo/duro, donde hicisteis vivac y si piensas hay otros emplazamientos mejores o kg de cada mochila:)
Saludos!
Hola Gabriel, pensaba hacer otro video más corto, centrándome en la escalada, pero tomo nota de tu interés sobre la planificación. A la espera de la salida del nuevo vídeo, salimos con 3 litros de agua para el primer día. El que fue el más duro por tener que cargar con los 15kg de mochila en el día más largo y escalar hasta 5c. Hicimos los vivac en la cima de la Noire y Col de Peutérey, aunque tal vez sea mejor hacer el primer vivac un poco antes ya que en la cima no hay agua mucho sitio. Con respecto al gas, creo que 200g podrían llegar justo-justo, aunque tal vez mejor un poco más porque quedarse sin poder hacer agua puede ser un problema
@@jonmurua gracias, a ver si alguna vez en la vida puedo hacerla!
Awesome video as always! Do you maybe know for any English climbing guides for Chamonix or surrounding places?
Hello Luka, I don't know native english guides, but most of the guides speak english pretty well over here
I met a British guide in a hut this summer who was really nice and knowledgeable. Didn't climb with him but we he showed us the way to our climb for the day and he borrowed us his topo. You can find him here: andypmountainguide.com/
Amazing. Beautiful integral. what point is that of the descent at min 29:29 ? which wall is the ice one?
That was the descent from Mont Maudit. That year the usual route to Mont Maudit was not possible as the glacier imposed a huge crevasse and the route diverted further to the east through this steep icy section
@@jonmuruathat ice wall to climb up must be a dream
Amazing, a real alpinist's video! But the descent, I don't recognise it?!
The descent is from the 3 monts route. Due to the glacier and the seracs shape, that year it followed an unusual path around Mont Maudit. The descent was recorded the week before when we climbed Mont Blanc via de Kuffner ridge.
@@jonmurua, it is why your partner switch from quark to nomic 😅...
Adding, strange to rappel this way without any locked carabiner (don't know the word for maillon rapide), don't you afraid of 2 ropes friction? I was told that it is of great danger
@@D1074gasy maillon rapide in english is called quick link. It would be better to have a quick link, but I'm not afraid of the friction for a rappel; the rope is static during the rappel and the friction when pulling the rope is without tension. But I would never climb top-rope like that
@@jonmurua by the way Great expedition and congrats to complete it!!
I just wanted to ask how long it took.
Two and a half days:
Day 1: camping - Aiguille noire de Peuterey summit
Day 2: Aiguille noire de Peuterey summit - Col de Peuterey
Day 3: Col de Peuterey - Aiguille du Midi
peuterey
Nice video, however the material and techniques used for abseil are definitely not the best ones - using thin accessory cord for extension, threading rope directly through the plate in anchor (although works with some that are specially designed for this use).
Cresta del peuterey la piu lunga e difficile delle alpi arrivando a quota 4810 totalmente in territorio italiano. Neanche un metro di questo percorso si trova in Francia