...been a bit distracted by variuos things, so forgot to thank you for your efforts, not only here, but on MB in general. My over-riding impression is that that, whilst basic, MB are just made a bit better - the plastic clips don't snap at the first attempt; the attention to detail in routing cables, for instance; just a bit more thought-out. It took me two-and-a-half hours and about £110 to completely rebuild the brakes, front and rear; discs and pads on a warm May afternoon on my newly aquired C200 (W202)! Changing the plugs was a breeze, the aux drive belt - 90 seconds! All with your guidance. The cabin filter was a real eye-opener, I didn't even know of it's existence! I could swear that you were filming my car - ( even though your handlebars are on the wrong side!). Thanks. DC
Good job, I have two E320's for which I can use this technique after years of removing the entire caliber plus some part that blocks the bolt removal. Regards, Ronny the backyard mechanic
Hi fupabox ,another great video demo ,fantastic, I will be doing this job shortly so now I know how to go about making a good job of it. kind regards Alan England U.K
Stupeflyer loosen the brake line at the caliper while the caliper is still mounted..once it is loose,unbolt the caliper and you can unscrew the line without it twisting up since the caliper can now be turned as well
Just finished the brake job and everything works fine and all that took it out for a test drive and no more squeaking! however now I hear a scraping noise when I'm NOT applying the brakes but when I apply the brakes they go away. Any idea what's wrong? Or should I just drive around a bit
I can't get the pad locating pin out, rusted in and seized, any suggestions on a rust buster brand, any hints would help, I don't want to have to replace the caliper.
To change just the brake pads for the rear wheels will need: FLUIDS and PARTS 1. Spray Brake cleaning fluid for rotors 2. Yellow anti-squeal grease (keep off of rotors) may come wth pads 3. Penetrating lubricating oil to pretreat the clip holding food grade - comercial washing machine lubricant to Lube the shock absorbers and calipers 4. Brake pads TOOLS 1. A pin driver (like a set punch) 2. Hammer 3. ViceGrips locking pliers (small - to loosen pin) 4. Wire wheel for power drill 5. Small fiber brush for drills 6. 17mm wrench to remove calipers if brake pads don't easily depress PARTS (save from car) 1. Caliper pin (set slightly deeper than flush when done) 2. Pin retaining spring clip 3. Anti-squeal backing plates
+James Michel Does it have to be on the yellow anti-squeal for mercedes ? Also where do I apply this grease, im getting it all over my gloves and its hard to not touch everything when putting the break back on? Any information is appreciated.
+James C Yellow anti-squeal grease works well, but any that comes with your brake pads is fine. The grease is only applied to BOTH sides of the BACKING PLATES of the brake pads. This keeps the brake pad "floating" on the backing plate making it difficult to set up a feedback vibration (squeal). It is so important to keep the grease off of other surfaces that after you apply the grease (not too much - review the video again), check your hands and if you got any on your gloves, change them! TIP: Nitrile gloves work well and often wipe clean with absorbant rag and a squirt of spray brake cleaning fluid. This can be recommended for cleaning any other parts that get grease on them.
can rear brakes squeal? front pads on my w202 look fine and i even added more grease and it still makes noise. then i realized that the noise is coming from he rear
Super videos... have you replaced the fuel hoses from the filler neck yet? Its behind the inner fender well plastic shroud. Would love to see that done! Merry Christmasn
I'm just about to get everything to do this job. My 2001 E55 has a brake sensor. Do I have to replace the sensor or do I reuse it? Any grease that needs to be applied?
the brake sensor only needs replacing if it has worn through and the low pad light has come on on the dash board. That being said, most good pad sets come with new sensors so if you have new sensors it is best to replace them. The only greasing/lubing is the slider pins on the caliper , and I usually put a very thin coat of grease on the metal ears of the pads where they slide against the caliper. Synthetic anti squeal grease also goes on the backs of the brake pads where the caliper and the piston contact the back of the pads..very thin layer to prevent noise and vibration
Hey I know this is an older video and you don't have many on this problem but I have a 1994 c280 and I need to replace the cv axles. This model has ASR and I can't find any replacements. Can a non asr on work? Any thoughts?
non ASR won't work.. here's the ASR replacement at Rockauto www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercedes-benz,1994,c280,2.8l+l6,1195466,drivetrain,cv+half+shaft+assembly,2288?a=Referer+www.google.ca+URL+%2F
I'll give it a good ol' try but I'm almost sure there is nothing "gently" I can do to get it to budge, even though the point is to get the metal to expand and crack the rust, it's fused together pretty bad.
....Might be worthwhile mentioning that you may find some resistance when retracting the pistons...gently undo the brake-fluid reservoir-cap to release the pressure. Be gentle, but firm, when pushing against the pistons, otherwise you'll have brake-fluid dripping everywhere under the bonnet. Smother the cap with a rag.
Yes, great advice..as your pads wear down the fluid level goes down as it fills the larger space in the caliper piston bore...some people notice the lower fluid level and top it up..as you mention, once new pads are installed and the pistons retracted the fluid will push back into the reservoir and may overflow...Great advice thanks :)
the caliper on miine is held on by 16mm bolts, had to go out and by a 16mm socket! A bitch to get the socket on as well because the suspension fouls the wrench 2000 CLK 320
thank you for this video man, helped with my wifes 2002 slk . Took 10 minutes per side
...been a bit distracted by variuos things, so forgot to thank you for your efforts, not only here, but on MB in general. My over-riding impression is that that, whilst basic, MB are just made a bit better - the plastic clips don't snap at the first attempt; the attention to detail in routing cables, for instance; just a bit more thought-out. It took me two-and-a-half hours and about £110 to completely rebuild the brakes, front and rear; discs and pads on a warm May afternoon on my newly aquired C200 (W202)! Changing the plugs was a breeze, the aux drive belt - 90 seconds! All with your guidance. The cabin filter was a real eye-opener, I didn't even know of it's existence! I could swear that you were filming my car - ( even though your handlebars are on the wrong side!).
Thanks. DC
damn I thought mine were on the proper side :P
Good job, I have two E320's for which I can use this technique after years of removing the entire caliber plus some part that blocks the bolt removal.
Regards,
Ronny the backyard mechanic
Hi fupabox ,another great video demo ,fantastic, I will be doing this job shortly so now I know how to go about making a good job of it.
kind regards Alan England U.K
Great videos! Some of the best on UA-cam... Thank you!
Stupeflyer loosen the brake line at the caliper while the caliper is still mounted..once it is loose,unbolt the caliper and you can unscrew the line without it twisting up since the caliper can now be turned as well
#Car service require a lot of mental and physical work. Nicely presented video showing how to replace rear brake pad. Keep up the good work.
Just finished the brake job and everything works fine and all that took it out for a test drive and no more squeaking! however now I hear a scraping noise when I'm NOT applying the brakes but when I apply the brakes they go away. Any idea what's wrong? Or should I just drive around a bit
I can't get the pad locating pin out, rusted in and seized, any suggestions on a rust buster brand, any hints would help, I don't want to have to replace the caliper.
To change just the brake pads for the rear wheels will need:
FLUIDS and PARTS
1. Spray Brake cleaning fluid for rotors
2. Yellow anti-squeal grease (keep off of rotors) may come wth pads
3. Penetrating lubricating oil to pretreat the clip holding food grade - comercial washing machine lubricant to Lube the shock absorbers and calipers
4. Brake pads
TOOLS
1. A pin driver (like a set punch)
2. Hammer
3. ViceGrips locking pliers (small - to loosen pin)
4. Wire wheel for power drill
5. Small fiber brush for drills
6. 17mm wrench to remove calipers if brake pads don't easily depress
PARTS (save from car)
1. Caliper pin (set slightly deeper than flush when done)
2. Pin retaining spring clip
3. Anti-squeal backing plates
+James Michel Does it have to be on the yellow anti-squeal for mercedes ? Also where do I apply this grease, im getting it all over my gloves and its hard to not touch everything when putting the break back on? Any information is appreciated.
+James C Yellow anti-squeal grease works well, but any that comes with your brake pads is fine. The grease is only applied to BOTH sides of the BACKING PLATES of the brake pads. This keeps the brake pad "floating" on the backing plate making it difficult to set up a feedback vibration (squeal). It is so important to keep the grease off of other surfaces that after you apply the grease (not too much - review the video again), check your hands and if you got any on your gloves, change them! TIP: Nitrile gloves work well and often wipe clean with absorbant rag and a squirt of spray brake cleaning fluid. This can be recommended for cleaning any other parts that get grease on them.
+James Michel Thank you for the quick reply and helpful information.
+James C , you are welcome! Good luck!
Cobber lube works just as well.
can rear brakes squeal? front pads on my w202 look fine and i even added more grease and it still makes noise. then i realized that the noise is coming from he rear
Very through and professionally put! Wish you were my brother :(
How would I go about replacing the whole caliper? I know it's two bolts but how would I remove the brake line?
Could the clip and pin be the cause of my brake squeal..? I've tried two sets of new rotor and pads and only one side squeals..
Super videos... have you replaced the fuel hoses from the filler neck yet? Its behind the inner fender well plastic shroud. Would love to see that done! Merry Christmasn
Good one mate very helpful hopefully my c180 is much the same in layout !
I'm just about to get everything to do this job. My 2001 E55 has a brake sensor. Do I have to replace the sensor or do I reuse it? Any grease that needs to be applied?
the brake sensor only needs replacing if it has worn through and the low pad light has come on on the dash board. That being said, most good pad sets come with new sensors so if you have new sensors it is best to replace them. The only greasing/lubing is the slider pins on the caliper , and I usually put a very thin coat of grease on the metal ears of the pads where they slide against the caliper. Synthetic anti squeal grease also goes on the backs of the brake pads where the caliper and the piston contact the back of the pads..very thin layer to prevent noise and vibration
fupabox thank you! Appreciate your advice and input
38 THOUSAND! middle fingers to the dealers $500 price tag to do the exact same thing! thx fupabox!!
38 thousand.. very welcomes :)
Hey I know this is an older video and you don't have many on this problem but I have a 1994 c280 and I need to replace the cv axles. This model has ASR and I can't find any replacements. Can a non asr on work? Any thoughts?
non ASR won't work.. here's the ASR replacement at Rockauto www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercedes-benz,1994,c280,2.8l+l6,1195466,drivetrain,cv+half+shaft+assembly,2288?a=Referer+www.google.ca+URL+%2F
I'll give it a good ol' try but I'm almost sure there is nothing "gently" I can do to get it to budge, even though the point is to get the metal to expand and crack the rust, it's fused together pretty bad.
....Might be worthwhile mentioning that you may find some resistance when retracting the pistons...gently undo the brake-fluid reservoir-cap to release the pressure.
Be gentle, but firm, when pushing against the pistons, otherwise you'll have brake-fluid dripping everywhere under the bonnet. Smother the cap with a rag.
Yes, great advice..as your pads wear down the fluid level goes down as it fills the larger space in the caliper piston bore...some people notice the lower fluid level and top it up..as you mention, once new pads are installed and the pistons retracted the fluid will push back into the reservoir and may overflow...Great advice thanks :)
the caliper on miine is held on by 16mm bolts, had to go out and by a 16mm socket! A bitch to get the socket on as well because the suspension fouls the wrench
2000 CLK 320
yeah I've found 15mm 16mm 17mm and 18mm on Benz calipers.. I think dealer service depts. swap them sometimes with whatever is on hand :(
Hello, an efficiency video thanks.But NEVER put WD40 or somes spray like that on the disc, you will loose brake power and your brakes will squeak
it's brake cleaner !!!
Oh sorry i don't view!I think it was anti-rust spray or Something like that
thanks for making this vids ;)
Cool......
If you can cruise a Mercedes next time real Toolbox
Why don't you get a bigger frickin hammer?
Small hammers are no fun
+
😂
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