Eric..Just a heads up on that "coolant in trans" Bro, when you crack open that fitting you opened the seal that is between the trans cooler and the antifreeze tank. I doubt your having a problem with the mixing, so you might double check that. Even while it was pouring out, the trans fluid still looked normal. Like I said.. just a heads up before you condemn it for the trans.
Yes exactly. The trans cooler is a totally separate piece within the radiator. The transmission line adapters screwed into the cooler has the plastic radiator tank in between like a sandwich. Once you loosen the adapter, coolant will leak EXTERNALLY, that’s why your supposed to leave the adapter in place and use the disconnect tool.
That was my thought also. When transmission fluid and antifreeze mix it usually ends up with a pink liquid in both the radiator and the transmission that looks like a strawberry milkshake. Put some of the mixed fluid in a container and shake it up. Take the pan off the transmission to check it.
i agree i think.coolant started leaking when fittings got disturb as coolant was so clean and coolant reservoir should show signs of contamination if its been 6 months in the making, anyways very good videos i always enjoy it keep it coming thanks.
I don't think you got coolant in the trans, it wasn't milky, there are o rings held in place by the fitting. When you loosened it, it got loose and started leaking. The cooler is encapsulated in the plastic tank. The fittings also hold the cooler in place.
Agree 100 per cent. The fluid (coolant and atf) were way too clean to be mixed. If the the radiator is a concern it's already out, take it to a good rad shop and have them test it. It's always a crap shoot working with a high mileage vehicle, anything can go wrong after you've dumped money into it.
Yeah, this kind of thing is generally known as the pink milkshake of death. This didn't look like any mixing occurred until the ATF started pouring into the pan.
I've never worked on a car and probably never will but i'm interested in how engines work and your videos always give clear explanations of what's going on inside an engine. I appreciate all your good work.
I admire your tenacity and patience. In your place I would probably fix the guides and fish the parts out of the oil pan using a bore scope camera. Replace the radiator. And thoroughly flush the transmission. Bet it will be ok. Then you can decide what you want to do with it. Keep us informed. Always enjoy your instructive videos.
Whatever you do, do it quick. Stuff like this has the ability to take over the garage. I wouldnt touch the chains. New guides (only broken ones) from whoever has them, and back together ASAP. Not even valve cover gaskets. Epoxy the valve cover (or jbweld).
Eric, I know you can fix just about anything, but I strongly believe that vehicle is Beyond Economical Repair. Sell it to the salvage yard and get $500 and remove that headache.
The explorer is worth far more then 500$ and doing this him self it’s not going to cost him thousands to fix. The coolant issue is just improperly disconnecting the trans cooler !
@@NewsThatMatterUsa Time is Money. If he spends 20 hours to repair at a mechanic labor rate he could be charging for other people's repair, it would be at least $2000 without parts. That's at $100 per hour. I don't think he works that cheap. Most shops are now $150 and up per hour. Again spending that much money on a spent Exploder is throwing good money after bad.
You must not live in the rust belt. It is COMMON to remove the quick connect seals/hex-bolts and even cut rusted lines to get them out of the radiator assy. I need to move South!
@@LSmiata just curious, have you done it and had the coolant leak out like he experienced? (Or does he have a problem) consensus is it’s normal, but just wondering myself.
@@dm7097 Yes, but on GM/Saab 9-7x, 2007 with 5.3 and 2009 with 4.2 (trans cooling lines rot terribly on the GMT-360 in the rust belt). Same type of radiator. The trans cooler is held in place by the quick connectors.
To eliminate future headaches and misery, nows the time to salvage the vehicle. I hated to get rid of an old truck I had (it was an 87 Ford Ranger V6 manual trans) but it was the right thing to do. You'll only keep spending more money with a "money pit" vehicle.
because the coolant came out first i think you twisted the fitting and cracked the rad, i would blank off the transmission cooler and pressure test the rad before doing something rash,
Always enjoy your videos Eric... thank you for sharing as usual. Do NOT even think about repairing this thing ! junk it, part it out, it is worth more in parts than whole.... the numbers on this truck are upside-down BIG time. Only my opinion Eric, God bless you always my friend
I wouldn't use anything but OEM timing components. My fiance's son's 2014 F150 with the 5.0 started having some issues at about 190,000 miles. Turns out it was his timing components causing it. He bought a cheap timing chain kit off of Amazon and had it installed. 5,000 miles later and he started having timing problems again. Turned out it was the cheap timing components causing the problems. He went with all OEM Ford parts and he has had no more problems and the truck has about 220,000 miles on it now. As far as fixing your truck, I would probably not get it fixed and try to get something else.
I had the same problem. The customer bought a cheap timing kit from Amazon for his 2008 F150 5.4 and had me install it. Less than 3 months later the phasers exploded.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO When he bought the generic timing kit on Amazon, I was able to convince him to buy OEM Ford phasers but not the rest of the kit. He wished he would have listened to me because he had to pay for labor twice. The phasers were still in good shape so they reused those.
Had a customer with one of these a while back...except the rear chain really decided to come out and say HI! We tried to get a used engine to make things easy but the three we got from yards were junk and weren't installed. We finally acquired a reman engine in a crate. Been 6 years since I dropped it in and so far so good.
I find your videos some of the best and most intellectually challenging. My basic rule is that most vehicles at 200k are not worth major repairs. That also means do not buy anything that close unless they give it to you. Not just the engine or trans, but rear end and transfers are worn as well, then add all the electronics. Having said that I am a die hard repair guy that does not always use the best of judgement so I might be tempted to fix the engine change the trans fluid and see what happens. The only other option is Copart auction vehicles. You might be able to get something lower miles engine and trans and have parts to spare. Amazing how cheap the wrecks go for. On the flip side you could get something that just needs the fenders or doors off yours.
The same engineers who made that horrible engine. No keyways. They last along time, but once they blow a head gasket or start clanking, junkyard. Thank u for your hard work!!
This validates my decision to keep my '85 Ford van with 351 Windsor and C-6, and my '86 Toyota truck 4X4 and completely rebuild both engines and transmissions.
Good luck w your dilemma. When I approach these issues, always evaluate what is my total cost. You cover a major portion of it by being able to do the labor. Parts are relatively cheap compared to what your labor expense would be. All those other problems may come up, but they may not, and even if they do, it won't be immediately. I vote for fixing it. You are more than halfway there. What can you buy for the price of these parts that would be able to do what this vehicle can do?
your gonna have alot of fun with that new explorer ....the water pump on th10ose are timing chain driven its usally an 8-9 hour job if its an ecoboost its close to about 10
The water pump on the 4.0 liter is 8-9hr job? I was looking at a 2007 explorer sport trac 4.0 and I would like to know if this applies and is accurate?
If you don't have the tool, pull the cone out of your steering wheel puller and put a 1/4" extension in it. your extension will push at the at the crank and not your crank pulley.
The coolant leaking when you cracked the fittings loose is completely normal! It doesn’t mean that your trans fluid is contaminated with coolant! If your trans is having issues, it’s most likely unrelated.
I worked at Ford dealer, when those came out. The master Ford techs didn't even wanna touch those POS's.......Went to fix my bro's 4.0 front chain, when I told him before DO NOT BUY THAT CAR ! He don't listen.....To do those chains you need to remove the engine assembly, lot easier access bro...Those plastic chain "cassettes" suck.....Been a heavy line mechanic 45 years went into truck driving, LOT more $$ and LESS grief / headaches.....Just do it for friends cars now...Started on semi';s engines were my natural forte~ since I was 17
I’m a Ford guy, but sometimes Ford comes up with really screwy ideas. Front and rear timing chains. I suppose the engineer responsible for an abortion like that is working his way out of purgatory.
Man Eric seems like you can’t catch a break. I’ve seen so many videos with this cam and crank setup. Do you watch the channel Ford Tech Makuloco. He doesn’t have kind words for this engine setup. Hope things work out for you. You and family have a healthy and safe New Year Artie
Hello Arthur Fricchione, You are correct! This engine design is a complete engineering disaster forced by the bean counters. The block is basically a push rod design and used the cam shaft and an "intermediate" shaft to make it possible to swap overhead cam head from bank 1 to bank 2....WHY? When making hundreds of thousand engines, then could have made a much better front timing only system? Reminds me or the Porsche blunder and intermediate shaft issues and that was a MUCH new design and in "partial fairness", they do not produce near the quantity of engines to recover the tooling costs. GRRRR!
@@LSmiata well said. Who the heck is designing this crap and better yet who is giving the go ahead on these designs. The people running the show probably couldn’t change a flat tire. Thanks for the response
Love the explorer but I really don't like the V6. Ford Modular V8 2V is one of the best V8 to ever roam this earth! Good to see you giving new life into the car instead of just junking it!
2001 4.0 on my explorer sport. During a cold start the chains make noise for 1 or 2 seconds max and then are completely quiet after that both when idling and driving at any RPM. Even if the engine is turned off after completely warming up and then turned back on 1 or 2 hours later the chains won’t rattle when started back up… I replaced both tensioners using OEM ford parts and this made no difference in getting rid of the 2 seconds of cold startup rattle that was present before replacing both tensioners and the reason I replaced them in the first place. When I removed the old tensioners they both seemed to still have good resistance when trying to compress them compared to the new ones which indicates the old ones were “probably” still ok. Again, after those brief 2 seconds of rattle when started up when the engines is completely cold (ie been sitting for more than a few hours) it’s quiet and it never rattles or makes noise any other time. One other thing to note is that if I do the flooded crank start method before starting it when cold, it will NOT make the 1 or 2 second rattle. (I will hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn and hold the key to crank the engine but not turn it over until after about 10 seconds and when I see the oil pressure gauge move to the middle, I let go of the gas pedal and start it) If I cold start it using this method it will NOT make the 1 or 2 seconds of startup rattle. Is this my guides that are broken or is this normal to have a second or two of rattle when the engine is completely cold to build oil pressure and have it get to the tensioners so they tighten up to hold the chain? I’ve had this vehicle for a little over a month now and the symptom has stayed exactly same even after replacing the tensioners and changing the oil using high mileage oil and Motorcraft filter. I just want to know if this is normal or if it’s not and I should get rid of the vehicle if a larger problem is imminent.
“Explorers have always been good to me, except for that engine I had to replace, the busted timing chain tensioner on the newer motor, and the transmission slipping.” 😂
I just bought a high mileage tundra with the 4.0 v6 the truck had a p0016 crank cam correlation, i expected a stretched chain but i checked it yesterday and found a piece of the reluctor ring for the vvt sprocket tucked behind the tensioner, truck still runs a little underpowered, i ordered a new vvt sprocket today and will also get the timing set. I don’t think the ring hit anything for it to fail, maybe metal fatigue and i also don’t think it hurt anything inside, i might get away with just redoing the timing.
Thanks for sharing the truck with us. I think your time worths money too, and better send the truck to a scrap yard, and buy a newer one with a newer engine :)
You not only get water in the transmission when the partition in the radiator fails, , you get ATF in the engine cooling system. I had the same kind of failure in a Dodge Caravan, and ended up with a transmission and engine both full of a strawberry milkshake. After I flushed the engine and tranny, I replaced the radiator. Regardless the transmission failed a month later.
Weather or no it is worth fixing depends on if you are going to sell it or keep it for yourself. I have a 2002 SPORTTRAC that people keep telling me its not worth fixing. I've done a lot to it over the years mostly because a I like the truck so much and if you look at what it costs to replace it I believe its worth it, if you can even find one. I do not have a shop like yours but if I did I would not hesitate to fix even major things in the engine . Besides that you will know what you have and anything else it may need.
What longevity can you expect from fixing it? It may be a totally reliable vehicle for 3-5 more years. You also already know that OEM parts are the way to go. I would indeed fix it if I were not planning on a replacement within 5 years.
@@ChrisB-cx6td What car is not a money pit? What would your recommend with towing in mind? I have owned 04 Explorer with 4.6 and loved it.....woman u-turned in from of me...end of that one. Two GM/Saab GMT-360's, plus two more in family as Trailblazers. They are also great for medium size vehicles that can TOW. Looking at newer vehicles, only Jeep/Dodge has a medium size SUV to tow until recently when Ford went back to a real SUV with the new Explorer. my opinion.
You are so lucky it did not skip timing, I see that as an omen! I would fix it. Use Rock Auto, good choice of parts and if you choose their mid range stuff it usually holds up. Transmissions are funny things, I would flush yours out and then fill with OEM fluid. I would run it for a short while and then rinse and repeat, the slipping/hard shift may stop. Obviously change the radiator, no need for OEM. Have a play around to see what the parts will cost, if you can get them for around $500 then I'd definitely say go for it. It really is win win because you could make a couple of videos of your work and then record the progress how your vehicle is doing because it will help people in a similar predicament. At the end of the day only you can decide, but the vehicle looks in pretty good shape and worth the extra effort.
No problem with trans. ou opened the antifreeze side by turning the radiator nut instead of the transmission line. Thanks for the heads up with the harmonic balancer pulley. You are the man!!
I had the engine replaced with a reman in my 2006 XLT because the passenger side timing chain was eating a hole in the valve cover. After the new engine was installed, for the first few oil changes, I took off the lower small oil pan to inspect. The small pieces of plastic from one or more timing chain cassettes were blocking much of the oil pump pickup screen. My theory is that initial breakdown of balance chain guides block pump and then less hydraulic tension and poor oiling throughout. Then the other guides start breaking. I cleaned out the screen during 3-4 oil changes, picking out pieces of plastic that weren't visible, but that I could pull out of the oil pickup with a pick. Agree that coolant and trans fluid did not mix.
I think you may have cracked the radiator or just disturbed the external seal. The coolant or trans fluid did not look cross contaminated .Replace the broken parts. Check the amount of stretch in the chain. If over allowed limits replace. Inspect VVT sprockets only replace is they look worn. Engine did not have any codes. The VVT's are working fine. This is a 200K mile truck Only fix what is needed
I suppose that is possible. But I still have been experiencing transmission slippage lately, so I’m guessing the transmission is at the end of its life.
The worst of this is FORD. They designed this chain and tensioners, guides etc. and then didn't set the quality standards high enough by opting to use plastic/nylon tensioners that rub on the chains ! I have a 2001 Lincoln LS 3.9 V8 that has the same dumb design, cheap guides and plastic tensioners that require the entire front engine cover to be removed to replace them or wait until they fail and the piston hits a valve rendering the entire car a total loss. Whats worse, Ford uses so much plastic that taking apart items to get the job complete usually involves everything you touch will break and have to be replaced along the way so there is a lot of collateral damage. Boy, this engine design is dumb and they did it to eliminate Left and Right head assembly's using just one part for both sides. Caution when installing an engine, used or not. Be sure to replace the obvious parts, hard to get to and all before reinstalling engine. Especially timing chain assembly's etc. Do not skip and skimp or its likely going to bite you later.
I hav a 02 Ford mustang GT 5speed car bought it with 5000miles on it in 03 last year had replace intake cause the plastic heater hose nipple broke off had to plug off heater core then had to screw big ass bolt with shammy rag wrapped around bolt in to intake so coolant not squirt out had to leave radiator cap lose so billed up no presser to push out my plugs Praises all to the Lord for blessing me with safe trip to get 500miles back to house but NO joking I've driven this car for Feb will be 19years and just wee bit short of 400000.0miles other than intake nip braking off not had the first trouble just replaced fuel pump cause it was the one came in it to be safe only used Mobil1 full syn 10w30 winter n 10w40 summer Motocraft filters !
I have news for you folks, this engine was designed by Germans, thus it's name, the Cologne V6. All manufactures has engines with some specific issues at some point in time. If you want to talk about timing chain issues, ever do one on a GM 3.6 liter engine? Yeah, you won't have to pull the motor but it's still a huge job. Pulling this little engine is not difficult at all if you have all the right tools and know what you are doing. You can buy these Explorers super cheap and get them going again and all the other parts a super cheap and easily available. So to me this is a win win!!!
Aftermarket parts aren't bad, they're the fix at times to what manufacturers fail to enhance during production. Logically, get an online reputable brand and call it a day! I've used enginetech with no issues. I just did an explorer with used motor, rear bank was broken up on used engine with 100k miles, I used a cheap SKP brand of rock, and it worked perfectly fine! This isn't a timing belt lol, I think there's more wiggle room than you'd think.
I worked in automotive manufacturing industry for years and I'll tell you that many of aftermarket companies are the OEM supplier. The difference is the aftermarket cannot put the OEM name on their product if they sell outside of the dealership network. You're getting the same product in many cases and cheaper too.
@@kalabash72 I can agree... I've seen my part supplier "change brands" and simply put the BWD in a STANDARD PRODUCT box! Yeah, I was taken aback however, I just didn't expect that In real life. I was in denial to a degree with no over dramatic reaction lol.
Hi I just found this video and was intreged watching it as I own a 2007 Ford Explorer Limited with the same engine. Just a breif history; The rubber on the Harmonic Balancer came off causing the serpentein belt to fly off. I did not have the tools to change out the Harmonic Balancer so I contacted the local Ford dealer which had a long waiting list for that type of repair. So I called around and found that Pep Boys could do it in one day. W had it flat bedded to Pep Boys and picked it later that day. When we got there they had the engine running and it sounded exactly like your engine in your part three video. They said that it was like that when the tow truck dropped it off. I opted to send it to the Ford dealer to evaluate and they told me that the engine suffered catostrophic failure. I believe that Pep Boys improperly removed and installed the Harmonic dampener by hammering on it to remove it. (I have the oringinal with gouges from beating on it) I am 67 and not really wanting to replace the engine myself but am lookig for somone to swap it out with another engine at a resonable price. But what I am wondering: do you think an improper removal and installation of the Hamonic Dampener could cause timining issues leading to total failure of the engine? James
..i think the transmission cooler line goes thru radiator to other side of trans. line there is coolant that flows around to cool it?,those ford trans. lines take a special tool to remove line from fitting,,i think what you are seeing is when you loosened fitting from the radiator you were seeing coolant drip out.....good-luck...
Eric buy timing chains n parts . then cap radiater trans inlets and install external trans radiater for transmission. Drive truck normally, transmission will dry itself of water. You should be golden...
I would say, like some others have said, your time, your money. If you feel like diving into it more, go for it. If you don't, don't bother with it. If the timing didn't get further jacked like you said, that's a plus and the radiator ordeal is quite possible you just cracked the fitting connected to the radiator. If it was myself, and knew the transmission didn't get jacked, I would get the OEM or better cheap brand timing components and fix it. Ultimately, its your call brother.
First thank you so much for the video , it’s definitely very helpful and the tips you share are definitely good . The other thing I want to mention is that I recently was working on a Mini copper 2007 super charge and had the same issue getting off the harmonic balancer ( I mean it took me almost 3 days to take off because it had the same setup as the one you did ..
Having rebuilt much salvage (rust free west coast); I can say that it feels nice to put old iron back on the road, but rebuilt title vehicles here sell for 75% of clean title vehicles. Personally, I'd fix the radiator and timing chain, then send it with full disclosure.
The engine wasn’t well loved in the beginning with. I’d say put in new guides and tensioners along with a new radiator. Flush the transmission and sell the truck for whatever it worth. Still better than how much the junkyard would pays you.
Hell no!!! These engines are actually pretty damn good. I have one with 180k miles on it, I pulled the engine and put a good quality Cloydes timing chain kit and now this thing purrs like a kitten. I mean this little engine sounds brand new, uses no oil and has really good power for a little V6. I bought this Explorer used and it looks as if the transmission was rebuilt at some time down the road, but if shifts and works as should so I'm confident it'll be good to go for some time. If you know what you are doing you can replace these timing chains and have a good running motor, but whatever you do don't use those cheap ass Ebay timing chain kits that sells for like $80. Do it and do it right and you should have no problems moving forward!
12:39min not necessarily. You can do a transmission flush. Remember transfluid is the best anti rust outthere. Your only concern should be how long ago was your last fluid service on the transmission. Because if that service is overdue. Forget about that trans. It's a gonner
I had a 2010 Expedition and paid $3,900 to rebuild the transmission, went bad 15 months later and they wanted $3,300 since I just had it done. I got rid of it a month later🤦♂️
I did the exact same thing you did . I could not get the quick release transmission lines to disconnect. Sooooo I loosened the line just like you did and had coolant and then transmission fluid leaking out. When you loosen the quick release fittings the seal leaks the antifreeze out tricking you to think that it’s in the transmission … I betting there is no coolant in your transmission at all . 💯 You definitely aren’t supposed to remove those quick release fittings . I installed a new radiator and had no issues . As for your transmission having issues, you might be low on fluid. Or just remember it is a Ford Explorer and those transmissions are junk . One of my customers had 4 transmissions installed in his explorer. And I have other customers that just junk them when they go bad . . Basically I’m saying I would just fix your timing issues and new radiator . Check your transmission fluid maybe change it . I’m betting it’s fine and might just be starting to take a crap just because it’s time
water never made into the trans. there is an o-ring on the lines between the radiator and trans cooler. when you loosen, the o-ring on the inside is no longer pushing against the radiator plastic and the trans cooler aluminum. i deleted that cooler from my explorer. its just for quicker warm up temp not really a cooler. also did a full timing kit with OEM parts. you can do the back one without removing the engine by dropping the trans. but you do need the engine timing lock down tools. ( 25:10 ) my truck is still on the road today and runs like a champ. as far as your trans, change the fluid mecron v and add lucas. you trans is fine.
One suggestion on the radiator. Get the proper tool to disconnect the cooling line. Tightened the fitting back up and pressure test the cooling system. You may have loosened where the cooler attached to the radiator. It may be ok.
@@94SexyStang Yea, I heard bout that , but not mine. I am going on to 400,000 km and never blew a plug.And I drove it hard. I torque the plugs with a torque wrench at the recommended foot pounds!
I would fix it. The value is going to be low because of the salvage title. Use it as a case study on the timing chains too. I have installed the Ford kits and the ones from Rockauto with good results so far. For example I did one with Rockauto complete kit, phaser delete, and a custom tune. The vehicle was driven by multiple drivers for about 6 years. The engine got damaged from sludge. They took it to a quick oil change place off 105 in Conroe. I don't know if they ever really drained the oil, just swapped the filter. I removed the oil pan and found about 6 quarts of solidified heavy sludge.
You need to fix this because the vehicle looks good and regardless of its market value, that doesnt change the fact that replacing it will be double or triple cost. As for that transmission, after you get the engine running, take the pan off and drain all the fluid out and then start the engine so the torque convertor will empty itself into the trans and drain off as well, and it will be okay. And quit worrying about dropping the oil pan on the engine for fear some plastic parts fell in, because the screen on the pickup tube wont allow it to get through anyway.
We had one last week with a rocker arm sticking out of the drivers side rocker cover. Ran pretty good amazingly, but burned oil as it leaked all over the engine and smoked a lot.
not serviced enough...i never go past 4k on my 09 exploder. ford 820s filter ford syn blend 5w30. 90k and no rattle. sucks u had this happen,ty for the video
The one I'm working on blew a hole in the side of that vavle cover. When the chain broke, it fell back down into the engine. But the back one is bad too, as that side bent all but one valve. This side bent only the intake valves.
I would think in this way, any chance to get a good deal on a van or truck that is needing similar amount of labor and parts, a project van that worths better you money and time. Not telling the Explorer is bad, nice looking van, but looks like it is not holding up. I like Ford, but really I would buy one of these. Probably you can get a more modern one and after investing similar effort an money, you end with a nice ride .... (dont buy a chevy)
Even tho, as a young man I was a simi truck mech, for the life of me, I can't seem to be able to buy a used car that doesn't end up with some big expensive repairs. Even with me doing the work. So, finally me N the Mrs decided that we felt our money would be better spent putting it into a new vehicle. The first couple was a struggke, BUT, they] never broke down nor nickle N dimed us to death. !
Hey I'm pretty sure you don't have coolant in your Transmission. The cooler separates from the radiator letting the coolant leak. If you would have used the right disconnect to remove the line you wouldn't have seen coolant. Love your videos just my thoughts
Wow Eric! Lots to contemplate! I guess even if in theory this unit is only worth $3000 but a replacement is worth $5000, plus you know the rest of the shape of it, like front end, rear end and what ever else you have maintained. You could replace it with another $5000 unit and have that one blow up? Do you need an extra vehicle. If you do, still might be worth spending $3k and know what you have? I would keep it. Time is money as well, so if you have extra time to spend on it verses using time away from real work, then maybe trash it.
I guess it would depend on car payments. It sounds like you are not hurting for a vehicle. So the questions are, do you need it? Want it? Extra? Reilly on it? Etc. Many times, fixing it yourself vs car payments is worth it. $1,000 for the engine. $2,000 for transmission. That is 3 grand. What is the payment on your 2018? Only you can decide.
I get a kick out of mechanics who drive Fords. Maybe you can get it back together enough for it to shoot the spark plugs through the hood... that is, if they aren't welded in the holes.
Just drive it & change the oil regularly my started rattle at 150k i got 200k on it now still runs fine.The chain will be more loose at start up because the sping tensioner hasnt got oil running through it yet.
Same here. My 2008 started rattling 5 years ago at 130k and still does today at 200k. I run full synthetic oil and change at 3000 miles….Also i depress the gas pedal to the floor at startup and crank for 10 seconds to oil up the tensioners then release full pedal to start. Gas pedal to the floor disables the injectors and motor only cranks and will not start up the motor.
My Advisor (graduate program) had an Explorer. He said it is an Explorder as it smokes all over inside when going uphill in Lake Tahoe! I think it is best to scrap it. With that many miles and slipping transmission, it is not worth it. Buy a 4Runner. YOu have a very good preentation skills. time passes by without even noticing it.
I'm certainly no expert, but a twice-wrecked Explorer with a salvage title going on it's second engine with bad chains and likely a rusted transmission has seen the end of days. Time to move on.
@@idgaffub there is sort of a “tank within a tank” on that lower radiator. As long as those threaded fittings aren’t loosened, the inner tank is pinched tight against the lower radiator tank and transmission fluid circulates through the inner tank. If you release the transmission lines using the release tool, the only thing that would have came out was trans fluid. Once the fittings are unscrewed, you grab the threads on that inner tank with a pick and move the inner tank around. The inner tank is normally surrounded by coolant. It’s kinda hard to explain but a lot of ford radiators work that way. It’s normal. Just screw the fittings back in and it’ll be fine.
@@chekelley6861 Good feedback. Some fluid designs are unknown until you expose or open them up somehow. Like sometimes you want to know what are the thin walls on heads or main block to chase down a crack that allows a leak etc.
Radiator is ok. Just retighten the trans fitting and maybe leak test it. Just throw some cheap new guides on the front chains. Dont worry about the parts in the oil pan. They are big enough they wont plug up the oil pick up screen. Throw a can of trans fix in the transmission. Hey its a 14 year old Ford with 200k 🙂
That pulley really was a stupid design . I feel like I would have made the same mistake . As smart as engineers are sometimes they make stupid decisions. Id say it's worth fixing if you're using oem parts, I feel like the cheap amazon parts will come back to bite you assuming you're planning on keeping the car .
Ford designers tried to save money by using the same cylinder head casting for both heads. They just flipped the head around for the passenger side bank.
Get the cheep stuff, flush the trans and drive it till the wheels fall off...turn it into a beater. I have an 03 with a bad guide in the back chain...i bought the truck for 300 and use it as my service truck for mobile work...as soon as I was about to pull the motor to do everything I get a bunch of work so it's on the back burner lol.
I wastyping away and poof it left turned. Anyway, I found there are two sources of a clack sound ( not rattle). I looked at one of these vids and assumed it was the primary ( jackshaft) chain tensioner and it wasn't. I was tearing into it and removing the bracket for the compressor/coil/PS reservoir and the upper cassette bolt literally fell out of the recessed hole in the right head ! I examined it and no damage except the 0ring on it. My advice to anyone doing the chain(s) replacement is take some black silicone and half fill the hole in case that bolt came loose again at least it wont walk out like mine did. So now the intake has to come off so im pulling both valve covers to check cam timing. Wish me luck.
Eric..great video .. in regards on what to To fix or not to fix.. Seems like your border line for each case. If I was in that situation I would go with all after market parts and use it as a learning experience for future and similar situations. If aftermarket parts turn our good then you WIN, if they dont then you learn from it.. but at least you set the expectations upfront
If i have an engine out of the car i do all timing components even if it doesn't need it. Doesnt matter if its a flip or my personal vehicle, just to avoid this same situation. If you want to keep the explorer buy the oem timing parts, disconnect the transmission lines fill up a bucket with transmission fluid stick the inlet line in the bucket and flush it out, good luck
Eric, look at the book value and what similar suv are selling for vs the cost to fix it. As a salvage vehicle it might not worth the money and effort. I am sure you could find an suv cheap at a dealer auction that has an electrical issue you could fix.
When you crack the fitting we’re your trans cooler line connects to the radiator antifreeze will come out, I thought my trans cooler was bad the first time this happened to me, after some research I found that that’s how the radiator was designed,Also I’ve done a 4.0 sohc timing Job not to long ago, the book time is 20 hours, it’s a fun job, I guy with your skill level wouldn’t have any trouble , it would make a good video
I don’t think you have intermix. As others said, there’s a seal that allows coolant to be in that coolant tank that then allows the trans cooler side to be isolated from but immersed in coolant. So no intermix. If you can get the quick connects off, hopefully you can source some O rings to reinstall fittings. While I always have been a fan of the Explorer - the 4.0 SOHC leaves you making a face like you ate a bland piece of bread with nothing on it. It’ll run, but it’s way too entirely complicated for what it should have been. Not friendly on maintenance. Install a kit for the front timing, seal it up, and hang a For Sale sign up on it - tax time plus additional payouts people have received will make it vanish in short order.
Two things. Probably cracked the Radiator trying to loosen the trans line. 2. The trans issue your describing sounds like the known issue for those trucks. There is a hardend steel valve inside that aluminum case that fails to seal from ware. Ford has known this for years and even their recall fix only lasts 50-60k of putting brass sleeves in the trans. Had a 2004 mountaineer with the same issue. I'd dump it and move on.
I heard about this timing chain arrangement I think on a u tube channel in Canada. I think I did not pay a lot of attention but the owner pulled the transmission and the front of the engine to do the job . I just thought no way I want one of these
its gonna be $2000 minimum for a transmission rebuild done by a shop and then whatever cost the chain guides are I always recommend to change the chain tensioners with NEW oem motorcraft and its required to prime them before you install them they are hydraulic. And just get a external transmission cooler they work much better anyway. But if you cut the cost of the transmission out then you couldn't be in more than maybe $500
When u loosen up that fitting on the radiator it should leak coolant. Because it’s not making a seal … I figured that out .when I removed one and the transmission had no traces of coolant on the trans
Eric..Just a heads up on that "coolant in trans" Bro, when you crack open that fitting you opened the seal that is between the trans cooler and the antifreeze tank. I doubt your having a problem with the mixing, so you might double check that. Even while it was pouring out, the trans fluid still looked normal. Like I said.. just a heads up before you condemn it for the trans.
Yes exactly. The trans cooler is a totally separate piece within the radiator. The transmission line adapters screwed into the cooler has the plastic radiator tank in between like a sandwich. Once you loosen the adapter, coolant will leak EXTERNALLY, that’s why your supposed to leave the adapter in place and use the disconnect tool.
That was my thought also. When transmission fluid and antifreeze mix it usually ends up with a pink liquid in both the radiator and the transmission that looks like a strawberry milkshake. Put some of the mixed fluid in a container and shake it up. Take the pan off the transmission to check it.
i agree i think.coolant started leaking when fittings got disturb as coolant was so clean and coolant reservoir should show signs of contamination if its been 6 months in the making, anyways very good videos i always enjoy it keep it coming thanks.
You are correct! I learned of this before I installed one.
I was just going to leave the same comment ...removing the fitting just broke the seal between the trans cooler and rad
When it comes to a good story, Ford never disappoints.
@@hak1985org automotive history has proven GM problems to be far worse and far more numerous.
I don't think you got coolant in the trans, it wasn't milky, there are o rings held in place by the fitting. When you loosened it, it got loose and started leaking. The cooler is encapsulated in the plastic tank. The fittings also hold the cooler in place.
Logically I was thinking the same thing. Fluid aggravated by moving parts would've changed the color.
Agree 100 per cent. The fluid (coolant and atf) were way too clean to be mixed. If the the radiator is a concern it's already out, take it to a good rad shop and have them test it. It's always a crap shoot working with a high mileage vehicle, anything can go wrong after you've dumped money into it.
Yeah, this kind of thing is generally known as the pink milkshake of death. This didn't look like any mixing occurred until the ATF started pouring into the pan.
That's happened to me but your right the cooling fluid doesn't mix with the atf
Thanks for the info! You guys are awesome! Too bad my transmission is still slipping.
I tip my hat off to you Sir for showing us all on UA-cam what to look for and what to avoid. Thanks vf
I've never worked on a car and probably never will but i'm interested in how engines work and your videos always give clear explanations of what's going on inside an engine. I appreciate all your good work.
You have the absolute best teaching videos on UA-cam.
It's a good thing that you're such a good mechanic if you keep buying those Fords.
I admire your tenacity and patience. In your place I would probably fix the guides and fish the parts out of the oil pan using a bore scope camera. Replace the radiator. And thoroughly flush the transmission. Bet it will be ok. Then you can decide what you want to do with it. Keep us informed. Always enjoy your instructive videos.
Whatever you do, do it quick. Stuff like this has the ability to take over the garage. I wouldnt touch the chains. New guides (only broken ones) from whoever has them, and back together ASAP. Not even valve cover gaskets. Epoxy the valve cover (or jbweld).
Eric, I know you can fix just about anything, but I strongly believe that vehicle is Beyond Economical Repair. Sell it to the salvage yard and get $500 and remove that headache.
The explorer is worth far more then 500$ and doing this him self it’s not going to cost him thousands to fix. The coolant issue is just improperly disconnecting the trans cooler !
@@NewsThatMatterUsa Time is Money. If he spends 20 hours to repair at a mechanic labor rate he could be charging for other people's repair, it would be at least $2000 without parts. That's at $100 per hour. I don't think he works that cheap. Most shops are now $150 and up per hour. Again spending that much money on a spent Exploder is throwing good money after bad.
You NEVER TOUCH the fittings at the lower tank, they are sealed and you cracked that seal. Should have tried harder with the quick release tool
Yes, and maybe there is not much coolant in the trans as he thought. I suspect this coolant drainage may be caused by undoing the fitting as you say.
You must not live in the rust belt. It is COMMON to remove the quick connect seals/hex-bolts and even cut rusted lines to get them out of the radiator assy.
I need to move South!
@@LSmiata just curious, have you done it and had the coolant leak out like he experienced? (Or does he have a problem) consensus is it’s normal, but just wondering myself.
@@dm7097
Yes, but on GM/Saab 9-7x, 2007 with 5.3 and 2009 with 4.2 (trans cooling lines rot terribly on the GMT-360 in the rust belt). Same type of radiator. The trans cooler is held in place by the quick connectors.
To eliminate future headaches and misery, nows the time to salvage the vehicle. I hated to get rid of an old truck I had (it was an 87 Ford Ranger V6 manual trans) but it was the right thing to do. You'll only keep spending more money with a "money pit" vehicle.
This truck is definitely a money pit. There’s other things this truck needs that I haven’t even mentioned. Thanks for watching!
because the coolant came out first i think you twisted the fitting and cracked the rad, i would blank off the transmission cooler and pressure test the rad before doing something rash,
We as shop owners are thankful that people like Exploders.
Always enjoy your videos Eric... thank you for sharing as usual. Do NOT even think about repairing this thing ! junk it, part it out, it is worth more in parts than whole.... the numbers on this truck are upside-down BIG time. Only my opinion Eric, God bless you always my friend
I wouldn't use anything but OEM timing components. My fiance's son's 2014 F150 with the 5.0 started having some issues at about 190,000 miles. Turns out it was his timing components causing it. He bought a cheap timing chain kit off of Amazon and had it installed. 5,000 miles later and he started having timing problems again. Turned out it was the cheap timing components causing the problems. He went with all OEM Ford parts and he has had no more problems and the truck has about 220,000 miles on it now.
As far as fixing your truck, I would probably not get it fixed and try to get something else.
I had the same problem. The customer bought a cheap timing kit from Amazon for his 2008 F150 5.4 and had me install it. Less than 3 months later the phasers exploded.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO When he bought the generic timing kit on Amazon, I was able to convince him to buy OEM Ford phasers but not the rest of the kit. He wished he would have listened to me because he had to pay for labor twice. The phasers were still in good shape so they reused those.
My personal opinion is to just scrap it and buy a different car - NOT another Ford Explorer though... 10/10 for this vid Eric...
Love your videos brother, please dont stop teaching...my #1 channel to learn to diagnose
Had a customer with one of these a while back...except the rear chain really decided to come out and say HI! We tried to get a used engine to make things easy but the three we got from yards were junk and weren't installed. We finally acquired a reman engine in a crate. Been 6 years since I dropped it in and so far so good.
I find your videos some of the best and most intellectually challenging. My basic rule is that most vehicles at 200k are not worth major repairs. That also means do not buy anything that close unless they give it to you. Not just the engine or trans, but rear end and transfers are worn as well, then add all the electronics. Having said that I am a die hard repair guy that does not always use the best of judgement so I might be tempted to fix the engine change the trans fluid and see what happens. The only other option is Copart auction vehicles. You might be able to get something lower miles engine and trans and have parts to spare. Amazing how cheap the wrecks go for. On the flip side you could get something that just needs the fenders or doors off yours.
The same engineers who made that horrible engine. No keyways. They last along time, but once they blow a head gasket or start clanking, junkyard. Thank u for your hard work!!
This validates my decision to keep my '85 Ford van with 351 Windsor and C-6, and my '86 Toyota truck 4X4 and completely rebuild both engines and transmissions.
Good luck w your dilemma. When I approach these issues, always evaluate what is my total cost. You cover a major portion of it by being able to do the labor. Parts are relatively cheap compared to what your labor expense would be. All those other problems may come up, but they may not, and even if they do, it won't be immediately. I vote for fixing it. You are more than halfway there. What can you buy for the price of these parts that would be able to do what this vehicle can do?
your gonna have alot of fun with that new explorer ....the water pump on th10ose are timing chain driven its usally an 8-9 hour job if its an ecoboost its close to about 10
The water pump on the 4.0 liter is 8-9hr job? I was looking at a 2007 explorer sport trac 4.0 and I would like to know if this applies and is accurate?
2013-2019@@reedcarpenter2994
If you don't have the tool, pull the cone out of your steering wheel puller and put a 1/4" extension in it. your extension will push at the at the crank and not your crank pulley.
The coolant leaking when you cracked the fittings loose is completely normal! It doesn’t mean that your trans fluid is contaminated with coolant! If your trans is having issues, it’s most likely unrelated.
I worked at Ford dealer, when those came out. The master Ford techs didn't even wanna touch those POS's.......Went to fix my bro's 4.0 front chain, when I told him before DO NOT BUY THAT CAR ! He don't listen.....To do those chains you need to remove the engine assembly, lot easier access bro...Those plastic chain "cassettes" suck.....Been a heavy line mechanic 45 years went into truck driving, LOT more $$ and LESS grief / headaches.....Just do it for friends cars now...Started on semi';s engines were my natural forte~ since I was 17
Thanks for the advice!
I’m a Ford guy, but sometimes Ford comes up with really screwy ideas. Front and rear timing chains. I suppose the engineer responsible for an abortion like that is working his way out of purgatory.
makes you appreciate the simplicity of the the 4.2 pushrod v6- again engineers with nothing to do just made it worse
Man Eric seems like you can’t catch a break. I’ve seen so many videos with this cam and crank setup. Do you watch the channel Ford Tech Makuloco. He doesn’t have kind words for this engine setup. Hope things work out for you. You and family have a healthy and safe New Year Artie
Hello Arthur Fricchione,
You are correct! This engine design is a complete engineering disaster forced by the bean counters. The block is basically a push rod design and used the cam shaft and an "intermediate" shaft to make it possible to swap overhead cam head from bank 1 to bank 2....WHY? When making hundreds of thousand engines, then could have made a much better front timing only system? Reminds me or the Porsche blunder and intermediate shaft issues and that was a MUCH new design and in "partial fairness", they do not produce near the quantity of engines to recover the tooling costs.
GRRRR!
@@LSmiata well said. Who the heck is designing this crap and better yet who is giving the go ahead on these designs. The people running the show probably couldn’t change a flat tire. Thanks for the response
Love the explorer but I really don't like the V6. Ford Modular V8 2V is one of the best V8 to ever roam this earth! Good to see you giving new life into the car instead of just junking it!
2001 4.0 on my explorer sport. During a cold start the chains make noise for 1 or 2 seconds max and then are completely quiet after that both when idling and driving at any RPM. Even if the engine is turned off after completely warming up and then turned back on 1 or 2 hours later the chains won’t rattle when started back up…
I replaced both tensioners using OEM ford parts and this made no difference in getting rid of the 2 seconds of cold startup rattle that was present before replacing both tensioners and the reason I replaced them in the first place. When I removed the old tensioners they both seemed to still have good resistance when trying to compress them compared to the new ones which indicates the old ones were “probably” still ok.
Again, after those brief 2 seconds of rattle when started up when the engines is completely cold (ie been sitting for more than a few hours) it’s quiet and it never rattles or makes noise any other time.
One other thing to note is that if I do the flooded crank start method before starting it when cold, it will NOT make the 1 or 2 second rattle. (I will hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn and hold the key to crank the engine but not turn it over until after about 10 seconds and when I see the oil pressure gauge move to the middle, I let go of the gas pedal and start it) If I cold start it using this method it will NOT make the 1 or 2 seconds of startup rattle.
Is this my guides that are broken or is this normal to have a second or two of rattle when the engine is completely cold to build oil pressure and have it get to the tensioners so they tighten up to hold the chain? I’ve had this vehicle for a little over a month now and the symptom has stayed exactly same even after replacing the tensioners and changing the oil using high mileage oil and Motorcraft filter. I just want to know if this is normal or if it’s not and I should get rid of the vehicle if a larger problem is imminent.
Eric, AWESOME Love the information and ur thought process how to approach problems Merry Christmas and happy new year brother from Canada/Ontario.
Service Information is a must nowadays.
“Explorers have always been good to me, except for that engine I had to replace, the busted timing chain tensioner on the newer motor, and the transmission slipping.” 😂
I just bought a high mileage tundra with the 4.0 v6 the truck had a p0016 crank cam correlation, i expected a stretched chain but i checked it yesterday and found a piece of the reluctor ring for the vvt sprocket tucked behind the tensioner, truck still runs a little underpowered, i ordered a new vvt sprocket today and will also get the timing set.
I don’t think the ring hit anything for it to fail, maybe metal fatigue and i also don’t think it hurt anything inside, i might get away with just redoing the timing.
Thanks for sharing the truck with us. I think your time worths money too, and better send the truck to a scrap yard, and buy a newer one with a newer engine :)
You not only get water in the transmission when the partition in the radiator fails, , you get ATF in the engine cooling system. I had the same kind of failure in a Dodge Caravan, and ended up with a transmission and engine both full of a strawberry milkshake. After I flushed the engine and tranny, I replaced the radiator. Regardless the transmission failed a month later.
Weather or no it is worth fixing depends on if you are going to sell it or keep it for yourself. I have a 2002 SPORTTRAC that people keep telling me its not worth fixing. I've done a lot to it over the years mostly because a I like the truck so much and if you look at what it costs to replace it I believe its worth it, if you can even find one. I do not have a shop like yours but if I did I would not hesitate to fix even major things in the engine . Besides that you will know what you have and anything else it may need.
What longevity can you expect from fixing it? It may be a totally reliable vehicle for 3-5 more years. You also already know that OEM parts are the way to go. I would indeed fix it if I were not planning on a replacement within 5 years.
Get rid of these money pits
@@ChrisB-cx6td
What car is not a money pit? What would your recommend with towing in mind?
I have owned 04 Explorer with 4.6 and loved it.....woman u-turned in from of me...end of that one.
Two GM/Saab GMT-360's, plus two more in family as Trailblazers. They are also great for medium size vehicles that can TOW.
Looking at newer vehicles, only Jeep/Dodge has a medium size SUV to tow until recently when Ford went back to a real SUV with the new Explorer.
my opinion.
@@LSmiata The new explorer is not body on frame
@@andybub45
Maybe not BOF, but it is a longitudinally mounted engine on the 6th generation, U625 platform. I much prefer this layout.
You are so lucky it did not skip timing, I see that as an omen! I would fix it. Use Rock Auto, good choice of parts and if you choose their mid range stuff it usually holds up. Transmissions are funny things, I would flush yours out and then fill with OEM fluid. I would run it for a short while and then rinse and repeat, the slipping/hard shift may stop. Obviously change the radiator, no need for OEM. Have a play around to see what the parts will cost, if you can get them for around $500 then I'd definitely say go for it. It really is win win because you could make a couple of videos of your work and then record the progress how your vehicle is doing because it will help people in a similar predicament. At the end of the day only you can decide, but the vehicle looks in pretty good shape and worth the extra effort.
No problem with trans. ou opened the antifreeze side by turning the radiator nut instead of the transmission line. Thanks for the heads up with the harmonic balancer pulley. You are the man!!
Just get a bolt with no head or one that Will go in the hole we're the bolt goes that Will work
I had the engine replaced with a reman in my 2006 XLT because the passenger side timing chain was eating a hole in the valve cover. After the new engine was installed, for the first few oil changes, I took off the lower small oil pan to inspect. The small pieces of plastic from one or more timing chain cassettes were blocking much of the oil pump pickup screen. My theory is that initial breakdown of balance chain guides block pump and then less hydraulic tension and poor oiling throughout. Then the other guides start breaking. I cleaned out the screen during 3-4 oil changes, picking out pieces of plastic that weren't visible, but that I could pull out of the oil pickup with a pick.
Agree that coolant and trans fluid did not mix.
I think you may have cracked the radiator or just disturbed the external seal. The coolant or trans fluid did not look cross contaminated .Replace the broken parts. Check the amount of stretch in the chain. If over allowed limits replace. Inspect VVT sprockets only replace is they look worn. Engine did not have any codes. The VVT's are working fine. This is a 200K mile truck Only fix what is needed
I suppose that is possible. But I still have been experiencing transmission slippage lately, so I’m guessing the transmission is at the end of its life.
What could Be wrong with The trans? Is it just a slipping Torque Converter that you have had problems with? Thank you for a good video.
The worst of this is FORD. They designed this chain and tensioners, guides etc. and then didn't set the quality standards high enough by opting to use plastic/nylon tensioners that rub on the chains ! I have a 2001 Lincoln LS 3.9 V8 that has the same dumb design, cheap guides and plastic tensioners that require the entire front engine cover to be removed to replace them or wait until they fail and the piston hits a valve rendering the entire car a total loss. Whats worse, Ford uses so much plastic that taking apart items to get the job complete usually involves everything you touch will break and have to be replaced along the way so there is a lot of collateral damage. Boy, this engine design is dumb and they did it to eliminate Left and Right head assembly's using just one part for both sides.
Caution when installing an engine, used or not. Be sure to replace the obvious parts, hard to get to and all before reinstalling engine. Especially timing chain assembly's etc. Do not skip and skimp or its likely going to bite you later.
I hav a 02 Ford mustang GT 5speed car bought it with 5000miles on it in 03 last year had replace intake cause the plastic heater hose nipple broke off had to plug off heater core then had to screw big ass bolt with shammy rag wrapped around bolt in to intake so coolant not squirt out had to leave radiator cap lose so billed up no presser to push out my plugs Praises all to the Lord for blessing me with safe trip to get 500miles back to house but NO joking I've driven this car for Feb will be 19years and just wee bit short of 400000.0miles other than intake nip braking off not had the first trouble just replaced fuel pump cause it was the one came in it to be safe only used Mobil1 full syn 10w30 winter n 10w40 summer Motocraft filters !
@@scottyjones27 That will not occur with a 4 cylinder turbo !
I have news for you folks, this engine was designed by Germans, thus it's name, the Cologne V6. All manufactures has engines with some specific issues at some point in time. If you want to talk about timing chain issues, ever do one on a GM 3.6 liter engine? Yeah, you won't have to pull the motor but it's still a huge job. Pulling this little engine is not difficult at all if you have all the right tools and know what you are doing. You can buy these Explorers super cheap and get them going again and all the other parts a super cheap and easily available. So to me this is a win win!!!
Aftermarket parts aren't bad, they're the fix at times to what manufacturers fail to enhance during production.
Logically, get an online reputable brand and call it a day! I've used enginetech with no issues. I just did an explorer with used motor, rear bank was broken up on used engine with 100k miles, I used a cheap SKP brand of rock, and it worked perfectly fine! This isn't a timing belt lol, I think there's more wiggle room than you'd think.
I worked in automotive manufacturing industry for years and I'll tell you that many of aftermarket companies are the OEM supplier. The difference is the aftermarket cannot put the OEM name on their product if they sell outside of the dealership network. You're getting the same product in many cases and cheaper too.
@@kalabash72 I can agree... I've seen my part supplier "change brands" and simply put the BWD in a STANDARD PRODUCT box! Yeah, I was taken aback however, I just didn't expect that In real life. I was in denial to a degree with no over dramatic reaction lol.
Hi I just found this video and was intreged watching it as I own a 2007 Ford Explorer Limited with the same engine. Just a breif history; The rubber on the Harmonic Balancer came off causing the serpentein belt to fly off. I did not have the tools to change out the Harmonic Balancer so I contacted the local Ford dealer which had a long waiting list for that type of repair. So I called around and found that Pep Boys could do it in one day. W had it flat bedded to Pep Boys and picked it later that day. When we got there they had the engine running and it sounded exactly like your engine in your part three video. They said that it was like that when the tow truck dropped it off. I opted to send it to the Ford dealer to evaluate and they told me that the engine suffered catostrophic failure. I believe that Pep Boys improperly removed and installed the Harmonic dampener by hammering on it to remove it. (I have the oringinal with gouges from beating on it) I am 67 and not really wanting to replace the engine myself but am lookig for somone to swap it out with another engine at a resonable price. But what I am wondering: do you think an improper removal and installation of the Hamonic Dampener could cause timining issues leading to total failure of the engine?
James
..i think the transmission cooler line goes thru radiator to other side of trans. line there is coolant that flows around to cool it?,those ford trans. lines take a special tool to remove line from fitting,,i think what you are seeing is when you loosened fitting from the radiator you were seeing coolant drip out.....good-luck...
31:27 The last 10 years with my Ford 😂 It's the eternal struggle!
I feel you lol
Eric buy timing chains n parts . then cap radiater trans inlets and install external trans radiater for transmission. Drive truck normally, transmission will dry itself of water. You should be golden...
I would say, like some others have said, your time, your money. If you feel like diving into it more, go for it. If you don't, don't bother with it. If the timing didn't get further jacked like you said, that's a plus and the radiator ordeal is quite possible you just cracked the fitting connected to the radiator. If it was myself, and knew the transmission didn't get jacked, I would get the OEM or better cheap brand timing components and fix it. Ultimately, its your call brother.
I remember taking one of those engine apart and seeing Made in Germany
First thank you so much for the video , it’s definitely very helpful and the tips you share are definitely good . The other thing I want to mention is that I recently was working on a Mini copper 2007 super charge and had the same issue getting off the harmonic balancer ( I mean it took me almost 3 days to take off because it had the same setup as the one you did ..
Having rebuilt much salvage (rust free west coast); I can say that it feels nice to put old iron back on the road, but rebuilt title vehicles here sell for 75% of clean title vehicles. Personally, I'd fix the radiator and timing chain, then send it with full disclosure.
The engine wasn’t well loved in the beginning with. I’d say put in new guides and tensioners along with a new radiator. Flush the transmission and sell the truck for whatever it worth. Still better than how much the junkyard would pays you.
I’m starting to think this may be my best option. Thanks for watching!
Hell no!!! These engines are actually pretty damn good. I have one with 180k miles on it, I pulled the engine and put a good quality Cloydes timing chain kit and now this thing purrs like a kitten. I mean this little engine sounds brand new, uses no oil and has really good power for a little V6. I bought this Explorer used and it looks as if the transmission was rebuilt at some time down the road, but if shifts and works as should so I'm confident it'll be good to go for some time. If you know what you are doing you can replace these timing chains and have a good running motor, but whatever you do don't use those cheap ass Ebay timing chain kits that sells for like $80. Do it and do it right and you should have no problems moving forward!
12:39min not necessarily. You can do a transmission flush.
Remember transfluid is the best anti rust outthere. Your only concern should be how long ago was your last fluid service on the transmission. Because if that service is overdue. Forget about that trans. It's a gonner
I had a 2010 Expedition and paid $3,900 to rebuild the transmission, went bad 15 months later and they wanted $3,300 since I just had it done. I got rid of it a month later🤦♂️
Nissan had that problem for years and i didn't know it until it was too late.
I did the exact same thing you did . I could not get the quick release transmission lines to disconnect. Sooooo I loosened the line just like you did and had coolant and then transmission fluid leaking out. When you loosen the quick release fittings the seal leaks the antifreeze out tricking you to think that it’s in the transmission … I betting there is no coolant in your transmission at all . 💯
You definitely aren’t supposed to remove those quick release fittings . I installed a new radiator and had no issues . As for your transmission having issues, you might be low on fluid. Or just remember it is a Ford Explorer and those transmissions are junk . One of my customers had 4 transmissions installed in his explorer. And I have other customers that just junk them when they go bad . . Basically I’m saying I would just fix your timing issues and new radiator . Check your transmission fluid maybe change it . I’m betting it’s fine and might just be starting to take a crap just because it’s time
A few people have mentioned this to me in the comments. Thanks for the info!
Thanks Eric for another great video😊
water never made into the trans. there is an o-ring on the lines between the radiator and trans cooler. when you loosen, the o-ring on the inside is no longer pushing against the radiator plastic and the trans cooler aluminum. i deleted that cooler from my explorer. its just for quicker warm up temp not really a cooler. also did a full timing kit with OEM parts. you can do the back one without removing the engine by dropping the trans. but you do need the engine timing lock down tools. ( 25:10 ) my truck is still on the road today and runs like a champ. as far as your trans, change the fluid mecron v and add lucas. you trans is fine.
One suggestion on the radiator. Get the proper tool to disconnect the cooling line. Tightened the fitting back up and pressure test the cooling system. You may have loosened where the cooler attached to the radiator. It may be ok.
I got the 4.6L V8 police intercepter mustang motor in mine bro. Its a. '03 and Absolutely No issues, great engine!
they blow plugs like crazy, then you gotta heli-coil it.
@@94SexyStang Yea, I heard bout that , but not mine. I am going on to 400,000 km and never blew a plug.And I drove it hard. I torque the plugs with a torque wrench at the recommended foot pounds!
I would fix it. The value is going to be low because of the salvage title. Use it as a case study on the timing chains too. I have installed the Ford kits and the ones from Rockauto with good results so far. For example I did one with Rockauto complete kit, phaser delete, and a custom tune. The vehicle was driven by multiple drivers for about 6 years. The engine got damaged from sludge. They took it to a quick oil change place off 105 in Conroe. I don't know if they ever really drained the oil, just swapped the filter. I removed the oil pan and found about 6 quarts of solidified heavy sludge.
You need to fix this because the vehicle looks good and regardless of its market value, that doesnt change the fact that replacing it will be double or triple cost. As for that transmission, after you get the engine running, take the pan off and drain all the fluid out and then start the engine so the torque convertor will empty itself into the trans and drain off as well, and it will be okay. And quit worrying about dropping the oil pan on the engine for fear some plastic parts fell in, because the screen on the pickup tube wont allow it to get through anyway.
We had one last week with a rocker arm sticking out of the drivers side rocker cover. Ran pretty good amazingly, but burned oil as it leaked all over the engine and smoked a lot.
The Nissan Xterras had the same problem with coolant-transmission fluids combining.
not serviced enough...i never go past 4k on my 09 exploder. ford 820s filter ford syn blend 5w30. 90k and no rattle. sucks u had this happen,ty for the video
The one I'm working on blew a hole in the side of that vavle cover. When the chain broke, it fell back down into the engine. But the back one is bad too, as that side bent all but one valve. This side bent only the intake valves.
That engine is known as the cologne V6. Because it is designed in Germany. Which shouldn't surprise you looking at the idiotic way it's designed
I would think in this way, any chance to get a good deal on a van or truck that is needing similar amount of labor and parts, a project van that worths better you money and time. Not telling the Explorer is bad, nice looking van, but looks like it is not holding up. I like Ford, but really I would buy one of these. Probably you can get a more modern one and after investing similar effort an money, you end with a nice ride .... (dont buy a chevy)
Even tho, as a young man I was a simi truck
mech, for the life of me, I can't seem to be
able to buy a used car that doesn't end up
with some big expensive repairs. Even with
me doing the work. So, finally me N the Mrs
decided that we felt our money would be
better spent putting it into a new vehicle.
The first couple was a struggke, BUT, they]
never broke down nor nickle N dimed us
to death.
!
Hey I'm pretty sure you don't have coolant in your Transmission. The cooler separates from the radiator letting the coolant leak. If you would have used the right disconnect to remove the line you wouldn't have seen coolant. Love your videos just my thoughts
Wow Eric! Lots to contemplate! I guess even if in theory this unit is only worth $3000 but a replacement is worth $5000, plus you know the rest of the shape of it, like front end, rear end and what ever else you have maintained. You could replace it with another $5000 unit and have that one blow up? Do you need an extra vehicle. If you do, still might be worth spending $3k and know what you have? I would keep it. Time is money as well, so if you have extra time to spend on it verses using time away from real work, then maybe trash it.
I guess it would depend on car payments. It sounds like you are not hurting for a vehicle. So the questions are, do you need it? Want it? Extra? Reilly on it? Etc. Many times, fixing it yourself vs car payments is worth it. $1,000 for the engine. $2,000 for transmission. That is 3 grand. What is the payment on your 2018? Only you can decide.
I get a kick out of mechanics who drive Fords. Maybe you can get it back together enough for it to shoot the spark plugs through the hood... that is, if they aren't welded in the holes.
You need to get the pushrod style crank pulley remover kit. They use a rod thru the bolt hole to push on the crankshaft but not the pulley.
In this case the OEM timing chain guides were no good to start with. I would bet that replacement guides may have been improved by now.
Just drive it & change the oil regularly my started rattle at 150k i got 200k on it now still runs fine.The chain will be more loose at start up because the sping tensioner hasnt got oil running through it yet.
Same here. My 2008 started rattling 5 years ago at 130k and still does today at 200k. I run full synthetic oil and change at 3000 miles….Also i depress the gas pedal to the floor at startup and crank for 10 seconds to oil up the tensioners then release full pedal to start. Gas pedal to the floor disables the injectors and motor only cranks and will not start up the motor.
My Advisor (graduate program) had an Explorer. He said it is an Explorder as it smokes all over inside when going uphill in Lake Tahoe! I think it is best to scrap it. With that many miles and slipping transmission, it is not worth it. Buy a 4Runner. YOu have a very good preentation skills. time passes by without even noticing it.
I'm certainly no expert, but a twice-wrecked Explorer with a salvage title going on it's second engine with bad chains and likely a rusted transmission has seen the end of days. Time to move on.
Well when you put it that way, it makes me realize it’s probably time for it to just die.
The coolant is separate from the transmission fluid until you loosened the fittings.
Yes but the coolant and transmission fluid flows to the radiator the truck doesn't have an auxiliary trans cooler that's why it some how mixed
@@idgaffub there is sort of a “tank within a tank” on that lower radiator. As long as those threaded fittings aren’t loosened, the inner tank is pinched tight against the lower radiator tank and transmission fluid circulates through the inner tank. If you release the transmission lines using the release tool, the only thing that would have came out was trans fluid. Once the fittings are unscrewed, you grab the threads on that inner tank with a pick and move the inner tank around. The inner tank is normally surrounded by coolant. It’s kinda hard to explain but a lot of ford radiators work that way. It’s normal. Just screw the fittings back in and it’ll be fine.
Thanks for the advice!
@@chekelley6861 Good feedback. Some fluid designs are unknown until you expose or open them up somehow. Like sometimes you want to know what are the thin walls on heads or main block to chase down a crack that allows a leak etc.
Radiator is ok. Just retighten the trans fitting and maybe leak test it.
Just throw some cheap new guides on the front chains.
Dont worry about the parts in the oil pan. They are big enough they wont plug up the oil pick up screen.
Throw a can of trans fix in the transmission.
Hey its a 14 year old Ford with 200k 🙂
That pulley really was a stupid design . I feel like I would have made the same mistake . As smart as engineers are sometimes they make stupid decisions. Id say it's worth fixing if you're using oem parts, I feel like the cheap amazon parts will come back to bite you assuming you're planning on keeping the car .
Why is there a rear timing chain on this engine? Thank you Eric. Great video.
Ford designers tried to save money by using the same cylinder head casting for both heads. They just flipped the head around for the passenger side bank.
Get the cheep stuff, flush the trans and drive it till the wheels fall off...turn it into a beater. I have an 03 with a bad guide in the back chain...i bought the truck for 300 and use it as my service truck for mobile work...as soon as I was about to pull the motor to do everything I get a bunch of work so it's on the back burner lol.
Great tip I don't know that harmonic balancer thank you
Fix the timing chain guides. And find a rebuilt trans, it's expected at 200k miles. The trans has lived a good life. Great car . super reliable. Enjoy
honesty guy the trans is fine you won't find oil in it.. the coolant just came from braking the seal on the lines
I wastyping away and poof it left turned. Anyway, I found there are two sources of a clack sound ( not rattle). I looked at one of these vids and assumed it was the primary ( jackshaft) chain tensioner and it wasn't. I was tearing into it and removing the bracket for the compressor/coil/PS reservoir and the upper cassette bolt literally fell out of the recessed hole in the right head ! I examined it and no damage except the 0ring on it. My advice to anyone doing the chain(s) replacement is take some black silicone and half fill the hole in case that bolt came loose again at least it wont walk out like mine did. So now the intake has to come off so im pulling both valve covers to check cam timing. Wish me luck.
Eric..great video .. in regards on what to To fix or not to fix.. Seems like your border line for each case. If I was in that situation I would go with all after market parts and use it as a learning experience for future and similar situations. If aftermarket parts turn our good then you WIN, if they dont then you learn from it.. but at least you set the expectations upfront
If i have an engine out of the car i do all timing components even if it doesn't need it. Doesnt matter if its a flip or my personal vehicle, just to avoid this same situation. If you want to keep the explorer buy the oem timing parts, disconnect the transmission lines fill up a bucket with transmission fluid stick the inlet line in the bucket and flush it out, good luck
Eric, look at the book value and what similar suv are selling for vs the cost to fix it. As a salvage vehicle it might not worth the money and effort. I am sure you could find an suv cheap at a dealer auction that
has an electrical issue you could fix.
Time 4 some cokeyto coconut rum happy new years great video still learning never to old to learn
When you crack the fitting we’re your trans cooler line connects to the radiator antifreeze will come out, I thought my trans cooler was bad the first time this happened to me, after some research I found that that’s how the radiator was designed,Also I’ve done a 4.0 sohc timing Job not to long ago, the book time is 20 hours, it’s a fun job, I guy with your skill level wouldn’t have any trouble , it would make a good video
I don’t think you have intermix. As others said, there’s a seal that allows coolant to be in that coolant tank that then allows the trans cooler side to be isolated from but immersed in coolant. So no intermix. If you can get the quick connects off, hopefully you can source some O rings to reinstall fittings.
While I always have been a fan of the Explorer - the 4.0 SOHC leaves you making a face like you ate a bland piece of bread with nothing on it. It’ll run, but it’s way too entirely complicated for what it should have been. Not friendly on maintenance.
Install a kit for the front timing, seal it up, and hang a For Sale sign up on it - tax time plus additional payouts people have received will make it vanish in short order.
Two things. Probably cracked the Radiator trying to loosen the trans line. 2. The trans issue your describing sounds like the known issue for those trucks. There is a hardend steel valve inside that aluminum case that fails to seal from ware. Ford has known this for years and even their recall fix only lasts 50-60k of putting brass sleeves in the trans. Had a 2004 mountaineer with the same issue. I'd dump it and move on.
I heard about this timing chain arrangement I think on a u tube channel in Canada. I think I did not pay a lot of attention but the owner pulled the transmission and the front of the engine to do the job . I just thought no way I want one of these
its gonna be $2000 minimum for a transmission rebuild done by a shop and then whatever cost the chain guides are I always recommend to change the chain tensioners with NEW oem motorcraft and its required to prime them before you install them they are hydraulic. And just get a external transmission cooler they work much better anyway. But if you cut the cost of the transmission out then you couldn't be in more than maybe $500
When u loosen up that fitting on the radiator it should leak coolant. Because it’s not making a seal … I figured that out .when I removed one and the transmission had no traces of coolant on the trans