Chuck speaks so clearly it's remarkable. I find I usually have to have subtitles on for most videos I watch, but this is the first of Chuck's videos I've seen and I don't think I could misunderstand his words if I tried. Perfect choice in presenter.
I was making some black leather gun magazine holsters from veg tan leather and I first used powder based dye. I did not know about the science of rubbing your leather. I later used the alchohol based dye. When I used powder based dye I kept getting rub off excess dye. I went into a mentor of mine. He told me about 100% of the time I was going to get rub off. Whether it is powder based or Pro dye. So, I said ok, how do I work with it? His answer was interesting. It was buffing process before I added any type of conditioner or oil to the leather. I was of course listening intently. He recommended, as a professional, to use whoole or rag when I buffed the leather. That way it would work in the dye and buff and take off the excess dye. I also used alcohol wipes to take some of the excess dye off. However, when using the alchohol wipes to remove excess dye. I learned that it took off the top coat of dye if I rubbed too much, making it lighter black. I realized alcohol wipes were not good on the leather itself. I also learned that applying oil into the leather was important, but only applying a little bit and then let it completely soak after I buffed it. If I added too much of the oil into the leather it would continue to bleed dye. But in all, I had very to no issues with bleed out from the top of my leather. But it was the process of applying dye in the right amounts, then rubbing with whoole, and then applying the top coat or finish. Afterwards, I had no issues. But again, applying dye, let dry, rub off excess dye, applying oil, rub, then apply finish, then rub depending on the top coat. Tan coat works best. Yes allot of rubbing. Thanks for all you do.
When I used alcohol dyes I buffed it after a minute I dyed it, repeated it 10 minutes after, then again 10 minutes more and after it dried it completely and then applied a top coat Oil dyes are so much better and far less care
I really like these videos and I’m not a fan anymore of Tandy leather but they sell a product by Eco-Flo called Top Finish. It is literally liquid plastic and crazy flexible. I don’t like the gloss it gives to the front of projects but I put it on the edges and flesh side of everything and there is absolutely zero rub off. I’ve done lots of stress tests to be sure it works and I’m 100% confident. This product has been a game changer for my business. Again, I am absolutely NOT endorsing Tandy Leather. But that one product is amazing!
How do you apply the Top Finish? The bottle says to use a sponge, but I am applying it to the back of a belt, wondering if I can brush it on? That may be easier to control where it goes and keep it from the front and edges, which I like to burnish with Gum Trag or Tokenole.
Good question Mary. Sorry I didn’t clarify. I would definitely not use a sponge. It’s thicker than most finishes and is prone to showing streaks unless applied perfectly evenly, (which is another reason why I mostly use it on the back of projects.). So what I do is just put on a latex glove and pour it In a small dish. I then dip two fingers in and use the pads of my fingertips to apply it directly. It spreads pretty easily so I slowly work up to the edge without going over. And for the edge itself, I turn the project on its side with gravity working towards the back of the project instead of the front and apply a small amount with one fingertip and slowly work it along the edge. For this I will dip my finger lightly in the dish of Top Finish, then dab off the first drip on my finger before applying it to the edge. It’s easy once you get the hang of it but you gotta go slow so it doesn’t accumulate on the edge and end up dripping or running to the front. If it matters I always round and slick my edges with water first then apply the Top Finish. If you’re putting it on a rough edge it will likely soak in faster and be less likely to drip. Practice on scrap and you’ll get it. I hope that helps. Feel free to message me at LeatherStorm (dot) com if you have any other questions. I’m not advertising and there’s no need to buy anything. I just teach leather and answer questions for free and that’s the place I check daily for questions to answer. Good luck and have fun!
@@suspectii Thank you for responding, I applied it the way you suggested on the back of a belt. It seems to be ok, I just hope it doesn't crack/flake off with wear.
I’ve been using it for years with no problem. It doesn’t crack but all finishes will wear off over time. But with this product I’ve never had any issues. I probably should have mentioned that I message the first layer into the leather so that it soaks in. Then once it’s dry and I apply the second layer, (not always necessary) I do a light coat just to ensure complete coverage and appropriate saturation. Good luck! I hope it works well for you!
I’m not fond of gloss finish so have been using the satin Eco-Flo Satin Shene product. Whatever you do don’t shake it, it takes forever for bubbles to go away. Stir only. I use the tiny 2” foam rollers found for crafts. It goes on even and leaves no streaks or bubbles.
Hey Chuck, I asked you this very question the other week in the live question and answer so I appreciate the time you put into making this video. I have been using a thin veg tan lining on the inside of the gun belts I have been making and taking the time penalty punching and hand sewing as a result. I've been using the alcohol based dye so far so it looks like I've got an excuse to buy some oil based dye to see how they compare. Thanks again
Rub off is A HUGE concern in my goods that I make....leatner goods for the firefighting industry. Lots of bosses in light blur shirts and chiefs in white shirts. I switched to pro dye and also buying the leather pre dyed from the tannery (Wickett and Craig) has made a HUGE difference. Love the videos Chuck! You remind me of my grandfather (Ohio native) who taught me how to do leathercraft. Keep up the good work!
My experience has been much the same. There's a lot less rub off with the pro dyes, unfortunately they don't make it in every color so there are times when you have to use the regular leather dye, Oxblood is one example which is an awful color for rub off. An acrylic finish helps a bit but I imagine if it gets wet it's going to bleed onto whatever it touches.
Thank you for this! I have been planning to make a set of 18th century leather stays and was concerned with dye rub off on my white shift (it’s worn close to the body so sweat and body heat help shape it but that also means rub off is a huge concern if I dye it). I think I’ll just forgo the dye for this project just to be safe and let the leather patina naturally!
I love this guy. The enthusiasm in his voice just makes every vid adhd friendly & engaging even when talking abt boring stuff. So I’m gonna be experimenting dangerously with Angelus & run off on an old suede messenger bag cause it was all I had access to, fingers crossed lol.
About the dye rubbing off thing. I have less experience working with leather than I do searching for videos on the subject and not much of that, but I did manage to come across a page by a fellow titled 'Vinegaroon Black Leather Dye' purely by happenstance. You have to make your own but it is quite simple as you only need white vinegar, steel wool and a couple of days for the vinegar to dissolve the steel wool and later on a mix of water and baking soda to neutralize the vinegar acid smell on the work piece. This fellow dip dyed and says the dye goes all the way thru and does not rub off. I can see that it would go all the way thru as the steel wool is not particles as it has been dissolved like salt in water so just would soak all the way thru with no particles to rub off. Finishes not mentioned. You do only get the black with the steel wool, but I do wonder if this dyeing after mild acid dissolving method might work with other particle pigments to realize other possible colors. But likely, if you see me experimenting with this, expect to see me doing it as remotely as possible, outside and standing upwind in a breeze with a fire extinguisher on hand.
Doing a lot of book cover projects as practice. I found adding a layer of Acrylic clear satin sheen seals a lot of problems away, but am definitely a student and solicit feedback. Have you tried the satin sheen clear coat?
Hi Chuck; came across your channel in January and just LOVE your dedication and teaching skills! Also I really appreciate your honesty if comparing products or like in this vid stating which are typical trade-offs coming with certain dyes or finishes. Want to share my beginner's luck with preventing rub off, so plz excuse the wall of text following now...😬 I started with leathercraft in 2022 by crafting myself a custom belt because I was in need for a really broad belt after having acquired a pair of absolutely awesome winter cargo pants for hunters made of heavy wool felt. All of my ordinary 3.5 or 4 cm jeans belts looked just flimsy in those massive belt loops... So I started with a tannery pre-dyed (dark brown) veg tan belt, gave it a groove line and a felt lining for, ya know, learning that saddlers stich by putting the hours in it & also staying true to the style of the trousers. Well, what can I say, to this day I still love the grey wool+dark brown belt combo. But I have other trousers & shorts which aren't grey, e.g. khaki or sand coloured chinos & cargos, a white one as well and all kind of shirts in lighter colours too, so while I currently make belts for these other outfits which ideally have a wider colour range that pre-dyed brown or black, I am well aware of the possible rub off. I dye with the water-based Fiebing's "LeatherColors" (formely known as "Institutional Dye"; btw. thanks for your dye comparison vids!) and have found out by doing a set of test straps that applying the Finish sold as supplement specifically for these is good enough to prevent rub off on the skin side for all the colours I tried (red, blue, dark brown, black), but will (oddly) only do a good job on preventing flesh side and edge rub off for black and dark brown, especially after adding a top coat. After watching this vid here, I applied my personal preference of top coat to all straps after the Fiebing's LeatherColors finish had been allowed 24 hours to dry completely. That top coat is a german finish/top coat/conditioner which combines various natural oils &waxes towards the overall goal of making the leather more supple and water repellent. It's called B&E Beeswax Leather Balm and has a Pegasus Horse as Company logo. Besides providing help with mitigating the known problem of water based dyes making the leather hard as as a board, all of the strips could then be fully submerged in water for five minutes without losing dye (I took them out because I wanted to go on with the test; maybe they would've lasted even longer without losing dye - love that top coat!). The red and blue test strips however would still rub off on white shirt material if the edges were getting heavy "see-saw" contact like you tested here in your vid. And then I grabbed another red dyed strip which had been finished with the Fiebing's Finish but not yet top coated with the german all-purpose product and semi-carefully daubed the edges (black dye, being water based, creeped a little under the tape on flesh & skive side!) with the black LeatherColor dye, let that dry for 2 hours and then took the pure besswax cake and the burnishing stick to those edges and that was the magic bullet. Now the edges don't rub off anymore!🙃💯🕺 Best Regards & sorry for that looong text, but I tried to make my steps to success crystal clear in all steps!
Great video. To prevent rub off on my edges, i typically use fiebings edge kote followed by burnishing with wax. I also use a piece of canvas to burnish instead of a slicker or burnishing wheel. Hope I could help someone.
The problem with edgecoat is that it cracks when it flexes, and if you bang in against something or push something up against it it flakes off. Had to stop using it on my sheaths for that reason just not durable enough.
As you said black bleed is a problem. Got this tip years ago and worked well for me. Dip leather in ( I used Kelly or Fiebings spirit ) black dye 3 times then rub on black antique dye. Don’t let the antique sit on there long as it gets difficult to take off. Start rubbing off the antique and let sit a few min. Apply neutral carnauba cream all over. Let sit a few min and buff.
This is how I dye crazy horse. I use fiebings antique gel, a little at a time, about 3 even coats that I let dry between. I then take a warm, damp washcloth and basically give it a light scrub. Let it dry again, then I use some Saphir Renovateur, let dry again, then buff it well. No rub off whatsoever on my wallets. It's slightly time consuming, but it's better than wasting leather that I overbought and didn't want to waste.
I use the pro dye but I have some red alcohol dye a supplier sent by mistake. Red is notorious for rub off but I put a very thin coat on my veg tan and then go over it with a thin coat of pro mahogany. The colour is great and practically no rub off. Also, I bees wax my edges then burnish. I find this helps. and I use tacanole rather than tragacanth first.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It's exactly what I wanted to know. The passion and knowledge you have for/of the subject are second to none. So whenever I need to know something regarding leather work, you are the first source I look to. Thanks once again.
Street fairs when they come back, sell to specialty stores around you, or online but that will be time consuming and not as rewarding as toe to toe meeting with customers.
"I have two straps here, like I was going to make a leather belt of a pair of straps!" Well.. Yes! Haha, just had to! Great video as always and thank you for the tips!
Hello again Chuck & all the guys hanging out in the wednesday live sessions! I got a question for Y'all & really hope to get some feedback & good advice since I'm a beginner who doesn't want to ruin a project on the last leg of the production process. What products and project steps do you use to not just prevent "dry" rub-off, but to also make a dyed AND antiqued belt water repellent in the sense that it does not bleed anything on the wearer if he gets into heavy rain? My current project is a veg tan belt that has been stamped, then dyed with the red dye from the water based LeatherColors (formerly known as "Institutional Dye") and then antiqued with the medium brown antique finish paste. I'll describe at lenght what I did for finishing in the next paragraph but the "short book" is: 1) I got an absolutely stunning look - this looks EXACTLY like I want now. 2) It is not as water repellent as I would like it to be for a belt. I found that following Chuck's advice on preventing rub-off and the method of edge finishing I described last month does an excellent job in making any strap dyed with any of the LeatherColors water repellent & safe against rub-off. So I tooled my strap, let it dry for 24 hours, beveled the edges, dip-dyed it once with the red LeatherColors, let it dry for 24 hours, then conditioned it with one application of the B&E Beeswax Leather Balm, just enough to mitigate the stiffness it got from being dip-dyed with the water-based LeatherColors. After this, I painted the edges with the black LeatherColors dye and after letting that dry I antiqued the tooled top grain with the medium brown antique finish paste. This I let dry for 45 minutes, then buffed it and then applied a heavier coat of the B&E Beeswax Leather Balm, let that wick in for an hour and buffed again. While this gives already a great look and is completely safe against dry rub-off , I then tested what happens if I splash some water over it, like, when we have a really heavy summer rain here in Germany or an accident with a glass of water at the table would happen. The red dye held it's ground, no bleedout at all, but some of the antique did bleed out, especially from the groove lines where it was thickest. I then applied one thick coat of the Fiebing`s LeatherColors Finish (Institutional Leather Dye Finish) carefully as in: no circular moves, but rather dabbing but not, repeat: NOT! sparingly with a wool dauber. After 24 hours I buffed, then repeated this step. It gives a glossy finish optically resembling Acrylic Resolene, but it's not that water repellent. Granted, I can practically hear the red dye molecules yell: "HOLD! THE LINE!!!" and they do. But the antique molecules...While they don't break completely, some of them DO run away. Now I wonder if the actual Acrylic Resolene might offer me more protection for the antique or if Bee Natural RTC Sheridan would do a better job at that - Or maybe it's something else I haven't thought of? I don't want to buy a can of every finish/sealant to test if it's the right product for that kind of project so please share your advice. Thank you in advance for reading until here and for sharing your experience!
Ok, I figured it out,so it was my first time dying, and I have 100% italian leather boots that were purple... not my color, but I had a moment, and they were on sale. So I finally caved... give them away or go for it as I could not find a cobbler to do it, but they sold me dye and a black cream for after as I did not want shinny... I stripped, dyed, dried, brushed/buffed, and repeat 3 times all but the stripping..as they needed it... then put the cream.... then spent 3 days rubbing and drying outside, rubbing, drying.... nothing.... black on my fingers if I put them on, and no matter how much I rub them, they were not coming clean.. there was no way I could wear them... no way.... so I googled and found this... no help at all... so I thought ok you know what, it's now garbage, or I get desperate and try anything, so a hot, wet cloth it is.... ummmmm, seriously !!! That's all it takes... wipe it down, and it sealed them up... I did it for a second after 2 days of dry just to get it 100% just hot / warm water on a clean white rag, and you will see. 🥂😎🤯🤦♀️💆♀️🥷
Thank you for such a comprehensive tutorial. I'm making a black bifold for my brother and I'm pretty new to dying veg-tan, so I'm really trying to ensure the wallet isn't gonna stain his pants. I've gotten good results with testing pro dye on smaller projects but maybe for the wallet I'll use a top coat since it'll be at high risk of rub off being carried in a pocket.
Wow, absolutely sold me on pro dye after this! I’ve been losing my mind coating and re-coating my belts and guitar straps with finishers when I was using regular dye, this helps a ton!
Hey Chuck, have you tried Feibing's Acrylic Resolene or Pro Resist on the flesh side? I've used the resolene on small projects and it seems that one or two thin coats help quite a bit with preventing rub-off. Just wondering what your thoughts/experience are with this.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply That would be awesome to see your results and hear your thoughts on it. I've used it for sealing pieces for costumes, but I haven't received much feedback specifically about rub off from anyone I've made those items for.
I have had a lot of luck with airbrushing my dye. It certainly is more work, because you have to clean the airbrush thoroughly, but a solid kit can be purchased from harbor freight for less than $100. It applies such a thin & even coat that there is little excess to be rubbed off.
@@daverobb8311 I have only used alcohol dyes with it, but it gives such a light coat that I didn't see any, and haven't heard of any rub off. The dye goes straight into the gun, just make certain that you have a filtered mask that can block the dye, otherwise you'll dye your lung leather too!
Love the side by side comparison. So helpful. I’ve seen some makers who paint parts of their projects and then dye. Would pro dye still be the best choice?
Useful Knowledge. I just bought a leather journal and the red/brown dye is coming off without rubbing it with my fingers. What do you recommend that I do as it's an original pattern pressed journal?
Hmmmm.... I use the alcohol power based dyes and just use a leather conditioner that has a cleaning ingredient in it (soap/detergent) like Saphir Renevatuer or CLR Leather Conditioner, etc. After drying for a few hours I buff out with a rag and apply a light amount of leather conditioner and buff with brush. Doesn't seem to have rub-off. The conditioner seals it and the cleaning agent removes the excess. I learned it from my years of working leather shoes. Simple and Effective.
I made the mistake and bought the USMC black (which I thought was pro dye); I'm making a weight belt for my son, I glued three layers of dyed vegtan together to get a 10mm equivalent belt. Every time I touch the big blank, I get black fingers. I haven't put neatsfoot on it yet. And I also noticed after bending the belt a bit, the layers didn't stick together so great, and I even sanded the top grain before gluing. Thinking maybe just stitching it well will hide that. Very disappointed with this project, and the fact there is NO pattern anywhere on how to make such a belt (using a $30 mechanical buckle). I made my pattern based on photos I found online. We'll see how it goes. Quite the waste of time and money so far.
Hello, don’t know if you can help. My husband had a belt that was cordovan . After the shop refurbished it , it turned out a muddy brown color. He doesn’t like the color. Is it possible to dye it back to cordovan? Thanks for any advice you may have.
I there, One thing happen to me, i used black antique leather stain fiebings, all ok but when i used hot Water to hardend the leather, 3 Days later, the dye did come out almost completly... I used tan leather, and after dye i used resist also from fiebings, even using the sponge whit the resist a lot of dye did Rub off... Dont know what was my mistake...
I am new to leather crafting but I have been using Pro Tex CAMP high content silicone water and stain protectant spray. 2 coats. Seems to stop the brown dye transfer even on edges. Is this bad for the leather?
I find navy to be worse than black even. Or Angelus turquoise. I use Odies Oil and have no rub off. I use the super penetrating and let it sit for a few hours until it starts turning just a little white and then I buff it off. Works wonders for me
I dyed my $1200 leather jacket in jet black Angelus dye and applied LP on it, problem is lot of dye is bleeding making everything like hands black, any help? Thanks
Hi Mr. Dorset, Would using diluted resolene as a top coat reduce the rub off significantly? Just wondering about using a blue eco-flo waterstain on a belt.
How do I prevent ( or later clean) light thread from picking up color from leather. Hand stitching pink thread on black leather on leash. Thread ends up gray.
Do you have any suggestions for how to clean rub off on a leatherbound book? It's one of the Barnes and Noble leatherbound classics, so it's not super old. It may not be real leather, I'm not sure. Red dye is getting all over the cover and staining the white leather. I'd love to clean it up and use some sort of fixative if you have any suggestions!
I/ve had the best results using Resolene to prevent rub-off. Often I will line the inside with pigskin, since I like the look of it and it doesn't add much bulk. I rarely dye edges, preferring a more natural look after burnishing it with gum trag. I have dyed the edges, but I usually sand, gum trag, burnish, and repeat that process another one or two times. I like a glossy edge.
Wouldnt resolene or eco flo super sheen (acrylic finish) prevent this entirely. The pro dye is awesome but stinks. Worth it if you take proper precautions.
Neatsfoot oil first then fiebings leather colors it's water base. Then neatsfoot oil again then last step I use fiebings leather sheen. I paint it on with a brush and let it dry. Until I get a gloss shine . If I don't want it to be shiny I put the dye on then I brush neatsfoot oil on And I get great results. No rub off good to go. Your welcome. God bless from Glenn CATT in Massachusetts. I hope you all get the same good results I have . keep working with the flesh.
Great informational video, do you have any videos on removing strong odors from leather? I have a new leather jacket and it has a strong smell, I bought what claims to be an odor neutralizer but it was a waste of money.
Any of you all have any good way to clean dye that's rubbed off? I got a nice blonde baseball glove and the black laces are leaving a bit of a mess. I know it's not all that important but I'd like it clean it off if it's possible
I dye my leather let it dry. Then I soak it in water and scrub and wash and let it dry. Then leather sheen. I can not find any pro Dye. So I been using fiebings leather colors dark brown. It is a water base.
I'm new to leather but I put a coat of a beeswax leather conditioner on the glasses case I made and that seemed to solve the issue though I imagine it's temporary.
how about spraying it with saddle lac. it would put a coating on top of the dye and give it a nice shine as well. i assume the saddle lac would eventually wear off, but by then i think the dye would be fully incorporated into the leather and maybe little or no rub off...... just a thought.
If i accidently consume some of the dye how much before i have to worry Example i got it all over my hands and then had a cigarette before it was all dry
We recommend the Fiebing's Pro Dye. It's got really good coverage. www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/fiebings-pro-dye-4-oz?_pos=2&_psq=pro+dye&_ss=e&_v=1.0
Chuck, I would love to see a leather element video on how to create removable liners. I am blind and carry a bait pouch on my waist for my guide dog. I’m planning on making one out of leather but I don’t want the oils from the kibble to soil the leather. I’m thinking a waxed Canvas liner that can be removed and cleansed, what are your thoughts?
I dyed using Low Voc dark brown on back/front/sides. After allowing to dry overnight, it was still a little runny. So I wiped it down good and then coated the whole piece with Resolene. Something didn’t seem right immediately following the application, really tacky. I allowed it to dry for 20 minutes and it is dry but tacky to the touch. What did I do wrong or failed to do properly?
You want to make sure the dye is completely dry before adding any top coat. If the top coat is tacky, try adding it in lighter coats - you don't want a thick/heavy coat. Hope that helps!
Hi Chuck. I really enjoy your informative videos. I learn something new with every one. I've been wanting to make a pair of leather suspenders. I don't want to use snaps or clasps, but rather a loop to go over the belt. I am pretty comfortable with my idea, but am having trouble with the "crossing" in the back. I have looked at several factory made styles that all have a round or oblong piece encasing the 'cross' and stitched around the edge. This is the area that has me baffled. Could you do a Leather Element on making a pair of suspenders? I know you will have a great idea for making them look professional. Thanks again for all you do!
Chuck, great video. I have struggled with rub off for years and wondered what can be done to prevent it if anything. I have started lining my belts with veg tan and no dye and the same for pancake style sheaths. Thanks. Very informative.
I used Fiebing’s Pro Dye in dark brown on a leather bag I’ve got and it has stained everything its been in contact with. I used the dye remover to take it off but still rub off color. How can I successfully dye it and seal it so it doesn’t stain again?
Hello! Do you know what finish and sealer was used? We would suggest trying to different finish/sealer. To prepare the bag for dye we recommend using a deglazer, then Pro Dye and then a finish/sealer. Here are links to a few great finish/sealers options we would recommend trying... www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-1967/bee-natural-rtc/pr_27365 and www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-1920/fiebings-resolene/pr_8070
I have old pair of 877s that I’d like to try and “tea core” and wondered what might work best. I’d been debating between oil and alcohol fiebings before finding this video. My thought process was alcohol might be better for my use since: 1. I want to rub off with moderate use and show the red/orange color underneath. 2. I’m surface dying, not trying to fully die a crafted piece. Here is my plan, at least with what I’ve learned so far: 1. Saddle soap and clean boots thoroughly. 2. Wipe surface lightly with rubbing alcohol. Just enough to remove some oils from the tip top of the grain. I think this would help alcohol dye penetrate just slightly as intended? Oil and oil mixes, while alcohol dye and the boots oils would “fight” each other. 3. Dye the boots. 4. Brush brush brush to remove excess dye. Dye again if needed and repeat. 5. Finish with very light coat of black shoe polish to even finish and enhance tea core effect. Hoping someone can chime in with suggestions or a different method using oil based dye!
Thanks for the video, I have a quick question. I tried using fiebing's saddle lac spray on a strap for a bag after seeing one of your videos, but when it dried it started peeling and cracking off, any suggestions as to if I used it wrong or for the wrong application? I ended up rubbing it mostly off with a rag and just using a sheen instead.
Hi Pat, The only thing I can think of is to make sure you're making light, even passes over the leather - you don't want it on there too heavy. Also making sure the bottle is room temperature or even warmed up with your hands to a little more than room temperature. I would try a light coat on some scrap with the can warmed up and if you get the same results it may be expired. If you just bought it, contact whoever you purchased it through and see about getting a replacement. If it was from Weaver we'd be happy to help you with that. Hope that helps!
At 1:28 into the video, the alcohol based carrier will rub off faster when water (also an alcohol, chemically speaking). However, when oil is applied, the oil based carrier will bleed off. LIKE DISOLVES LIKE.
Hi! I know nuthin' about nuthin'...but I was wondering if there was a way to put a wax finish on the leather. That might help to keep the dye from coming through and rubbing off. Just a suggestion, but like I said...I don't know what you can do with wax and leather.
Hey guys I have a question maybe (hopefully) someone could answer. I bought some black scrap split suede a while back, it's a very dark black, if I were to guess, I'd say they probably didn't complete the dye process. Just handling it turns my hands black. It's not wet, but there is a certain smell to it. I don't really know how to describe it other than raw. Is there any way I can salvage this? I'd really like to use it because it's perfect for a project I'm working on aside from the dye getting everywhere lol. Is there some way i can stop this or maybe complete the process I'm feeling like they didn't finish?
Is there anything one can do to smooth up the ruff interior of a leather holster? I'm assuming it is the back, ruff side, of the leather when the two pieces were sewed together to make the holster. It collects dust and I'm concerned about gun wear. ANY help will be appreciated. This is my first purchase of a leather holster, my next holster purchase will definitely be lined
Hi Chuck, I have a new baseball glove that is a camel color with black lacing. I applied a conditioner to break the glove in, and the black lace dye is bleeding and smudging around. How do I clean the black smudging properly?
Diamond chisel vs pricking irons? Doing vegetable tan I run a groove and diamond chisel the holes.. now that I've been doing some top grain I've been printing pdf's that use pricking iron holes ,but I have to punch single holes... Heres what's on my mind,. are the holes being punched bigger than the diamond forks going to leave my stitching looking lazy? If I was weaving lace these holes would be awesome, but, to just stitch what's the difference?
Question submission: Does leather have a Bias like fabric? Shrinking or stretch. I made some small cases / covers for a particular brand of ear phones that come in a small case. Veg tan. Wet formed and dried for d a day. Dyed with Fiebings, then glued ,cut and stitched. It seems that the edges shrink an leave a larger gap between the lid than what I cut. It probably me and doing something else wrong, but just thought I'd ask that question. Thank you.
I'm really starting to like these leather element videos more and more! I think just about the only dye that doesn't rub off is vinegarroon, as it isn't really a "dye" at all, but rather causes a chemical reaction within the tannins of the leather. So maybe it's a "stain"? It won't work on chrome tanned leather for this reason--it requires the tannins from the bark or "vegetable" matter used during the tanning process. At least as far as I understand. In my experience, it's an extremely durable finish. So the positives of this method are: 1. It's inexpensive 2. No rub off, or bleeding, even without a top coat 3. It is very easy to make And the drawbacks are: 1. The vinegarroon solution has an unpleasant smell, and it tends to hang around on the item for a while. 2. No matter how concentrated the solution is, it doesn't seem to be a very rich black. More like a very, very dark grey. It can be improved by a few coats of neatsfoot oil, but it won't ever be like a commercially made dye. 3. It is time consuming to make (although it is almost entirely hands-off) In my opinion, most people who try vinegarroon and have unimpressive results are usually using a batch that is much too weak. If you are reading this and you are interested in making your own to try here is my method. Please keep in mind this is not terribly scientific: Put a handful or two of rusty nails or any rusty thing in a glass jar and pour white distilled vinegar to cover. Do not put a lid on the jar, as it will produce gas and you don't want it to build up pressure. Let it sit somewhere undisturbed for several weeks. Add vinegar as needed--some will certainly evaporate. It will smell quite unpleasant and form a black crust on top. This is all fine and normal. After a few weeks, remove the rusty nails and strain all solid matter from the liquid. It is best to strain the liquid using coffee filters (please don't use the drip cone from your kitchen. You will be very sorry if you do). Once the liquid is as clear as you can get it, let it sit in the glass jar undisturbed for several more weeks, until it has evaporated down significantly. You want it to be a very dark liquid, like dark roast coffee. Strain one last time, and place in a sealed jar. Against the light, it may have a dark amber hue, but when applied to leather it will transform it to black! It works on wood, as well. I use this often to artificially age wood. Keep in mind that the final color of the wood will be in direct correlation to the tannins. So pine won't be very dark, but red oak will be jet black.
I use feibings premium dura edge finish . I use two 2:1 coat of thinned resoline with a sponge ( it gets absorbed deeply ) . Next I apply 3 coats 1:1 ratio with an airbrush .
Only took me a year to start watching these excellent videos. What about a product like Fiebing's Saddle Lac or similar? I don't make saddles or tack. But do make costume accessories and have had issues with rub off. Saddle Lac was one suggestion. The other was a paste type wax.
I found this video when asked by a customer for a black sheath for a knife I made for him. I've only ever used saddle tan dye and never experienced rub off until the black. I just purchased the non-pro as I normally do and found the same rub off experience. I've basically used elbow grease, many clean rags, and some light neatsfoot oil to work out the excess dye on the top coat. Agree, the sides are the worst offenders and slicked the heck out of them. Next time I'm going with the pro dye.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Looks like the pro dye is superior to the alcohol dye. I’m making a leather sling seat so the edges are critical and I can’t accept any rub off. Has anyone ever tried a sharpie to color the edge and then burnish or a top coat? I have dark veg tan from wicket Craig so on the edges where it is cut the color is not all the way through, but I’m wondering if I shouldn’t still leave it un colored. Thanks!
I just tried everything for two leather Bleu de Chauffe satchels that were leeching dye really badly. Don't waste your time on anything else - just go straight to using Liquid Kicks top sealant (I had to use 4 coats). It was the only way to seal in vegetable dye
Looking for help. Dyed some pieces with the pro dye, and then used a super shene finish, and it pulled the dye off in some areas. Should I use a leather sealer or something else instead?
I just came across your channel and I love your videos. If you have not covered these already here are 2 ideas for future videos. Hope you can cover these; 1) Dying suede products: difference from dying full-grain leathers? what kind of dye to use? Topcoat? Avoiding rub off? Etc… 2) Blending colors? Let's say we would like to dye a piece of sand/tan leather to olive-green; should we use green or blue so that the outcome is olive green? Thanks!
Is it a problem to hang leather while you let the dye dry? I'm looking to die several feet of leather strips and it would be much easier if I could hang them to let them dry, but I don't know if that will cause any problem with the dye.
I only use the Pro Oil dye. I did a test many years ago with different brand/types of dye, and the colors on the Pro Oil dye were the best and had the least rub off.
Hey weaver, I ordered a saddle and unfortunately they have some real sloppy painting done on it. Can I use deglazer on a quip and remove the sloppy edges?
Since you put me on to the pro dye my rub of problems have just vanished. Happy tails
Chuck speaks so clearly it's remarkable.
I find I usually have to have subtitles on for most videos I watch, but this is the first of Chuck's videos I've seen and I don't think I could misunderstand his words if I tried.
Perfect choice in presenter.
I was making some black leather gun magazine holsters from veg tan leather and I first used powder based dye. I did not know about the science of rubbing your leather. I later used the alchohol based dye. When I used powder based dye I kept getting rub off excess dye. I went into a mentor of mine. He told me about 100% of the time I was going to get rub off. Whether it is powder based or Pro dye.
So, I said ok, how do I work with it? His answer was interesting. It was buffing process before I added any type of conditioner or oil to the leather.
I was of course listening intently. He recommended, as a professional, to use whoole or rag when I buffed the leather. That way it would work in the dye and buff and take off the excess dye. I also used alcohol wipes to take some of the excess dye off. However, when using the alchohol wipes to remove excess dye. I learned that it took off the top coat of dye if I rubbed too much, making it lighter black. I realized alcohol wipes were not good on the leather itself. I also learned that applying oil into the leather was important, but only applying a little bit and then let it completely soak after I buffed it. If I added too much of the oil into the leather it would continue to bleed dye.
But in all, I had very to no issues with bleed out from the top of my leather. But it was the process of applying dye in the right amounts, then rubbing with whoole, and then applying the top coat or finish. Afterwards, I had no issues. But again, applying dye, let dry, rub off excess dye, applying oil, rub, then apply finish, then rub depending on the top coat. Tan coat works best.
Yes allot of rubbing.
Thanks for all you do.
Nice!
When I used alcohol dyes I buffed it after a minute I dyed it, repeated it 10 minutes after, then again 10 minutes more and after it dried it completely and then applied a top coat
Oil dyes are so much better and far less care
What is this word “Whoole”?
@@568843dawWool, I'm guessing.
@@568843dawThink they meant to say "wool."
I really like these videos and I’m not a fan anymore of Tandy leather but they sell a product by Eco-Flo called Top Finish. It is literally liquid plastic and crazy flexible. I don’t like the gloss it gives to the front of projects but I put it on the edges and flesh side of everything and there is absolutely zero rub off. I’ve done lots of stress tests to be sure it works and I’m 100% confident. This product has been a game changer for my business. Again, I am absolutely NOT endorsing Tandy Leather. But that one product is amazing!
How do you apply the Top Finish? The bottle says to use a sponge, but I am applying it to the back of a belt, wondering if I can brush it on? That may be easier to control where it goes and keep it from the front and edges, which I like to burnish with Gum Trag or Tokenole.
Good question Mary. Sorry I didn’t clarify. I would definitely not use a sponge. It’s thicker than most finishes and is prone to showing streaks unless applied perfectly evenly, (which is another reason why I mostly use it on the back of projects.). So what I do is just put on a latex glove and pour it In a small dish. I then dip two fingers in and use the pads of my fingertips to apply it directly. It spreads pretty easily so I slowly work up to the edge without going over. And for the edge itself, I turn the project on its side with gravity working towards the back of the project instead of the front and apply a small amount with one fingertip and slowly work it along the edge. For this I will dip my finger lightly in the dish of Top Finish, then dab off the first drip on my finger before applying it to the edge. It’s easy once you get the hang of it but you gotta go slow so it doesn’t accumulate on the edge and end up dripping or running to the front. If it matters I always round and slick my edges with water first then apply the Top Finish. If you’re putting it on a rough edge it will likely soak in faster and be less likely to drip. Practice on scrap and you’ll get it. I hope that helps. Feel free to message me at LeatherStorm (dot) com if you have any other questions. I’m not advertising and there’s no need to buy anything. I just teach leather and answer questions for free and that’s the place I check daily for questions to answer. Good luck and have fun!
@@suspectii Thank you for responding, I applied it the way you suggested on the back of a belt. It seems to be ok, I just hope it doesn't crack/flake off with wear.
I’ve been using it for years with no problem. It doesn’t crack but all finishes will wear off over time. But with this product I’ve never had any issues. I probably should have mentioned that I message the first layer into the leather so that it soaks in. Then once it’s dry and I apply the second layer, (not always necessary) I do a light coat just to ensure complete coverage and appropriate saturation. Good luck! I hope it works well for you!
I’m not fond of gloss finish so have been using the satin Eco-Flo Satin Shene product. Whatever you do don’t shake it, it takes forever for bubbles to go away. Stir only. I use the tiny 2” foam rollers found for crafts. It goes on even and leaves no streaks or bubbles.
Hey Chuck, I asked you this very question the other week in the live question and answer so I appreciate the time you put into making this video. I have been using a thin veg tan lining on the inside of the gun belts I have been making and taking the time penalty punching and hand sewing as a result. I've been using the alcohol based dye so far so it looks like I've got an excuse to buy some oil based dye to see how they compare. Thanks again
Thank you, Ben - glad the video was helpful!
Rub off is A HUGE concern in my goods that I make....leatner goods for the firefighting industry. Lots of bosses in light blur shirts and chiefs in white shirts. I switched to pro dye and also buying the leather pre dyed from the tannery (Wickett and Craig) has made a HUGE difference. Love the videos Chuck! You remind me of my grandfather (Ohio native) who taught me how to do leathercraft. Keep up the good work!
Just starting to get into this as well. Stay safe, From MA with love, brother.
My experience has been much the same. There's a lot less rub off with the pro dyes, unfortunately they don't make it in every color so there are times when you have to use the regular leather dye, Oxblood is one example which is an awful color for rub off. An acrylic finish helps a bit but I imagine if it gets wet it's going to bleed onto whatever it touches.
Thank you for this! I have been planning to make a set of 18th century leather stays and was concerned with dye rub off on my white shift (it’s worn close to the body so sweat and body heat help shape it but that also means rub off is a huge concern if I dye it). I think I’ll just forgo the dye for this project just to be safe and let the leather patina naturally!
I love this guy. The enthusiasm in his voice just makes every vid adhd friendly & engaging even when talking abt boring stuff. So I’m gonna be experimenting dangerously with Angelus & run off on an old suede messenger bag cause it was all I had access to, fingers crossed lol.
I wax with atom wax, Buff then a coat of Master's Quick Shine Finish. This seems to seal it pretty good.
Could you make a tutorial on how to make a western style gun rig? I've wanted to make one for a while but cant find a good video to show me.
Oh yes, oh yes! I would just love to see Mr. Dorsett`s take on that :)
I used this tutorial and have made one from it.
There are four parts:
ua-cam.com/video/6_ZMeW0o434/v-deo.html
About the dye rubbing off thing. I have less experience working with leather than I do searching for videos on the subject and not much of that, but I did manage to come across a page by a fellow titled 'Vinegaroon Black Leather Dye' purely by happenstance.
You have to make your own but it is quite simple as you only need white vinegar, steel wool and a couple of days for the vinegar to dissolve the steel wool and later on a mix of water and baking soda to neutralize the vinegar acid smell on the work piece.
This fellow dip dyed and says the dye goes all the way thru and does not rub off. I can see that it would go all the way thru as the steel wool is not particles as it has been dissolved like salt in water so just would soak all the way thru with no particles to rub off.
Finishes not mentioned.
You do only get the black with the steel wool, but I do wonder if this dyeing after mild acid dissolving method might work with other particle pigments to realize other possible colors. But likely, if you see me experimenting with this, expect to see me doing it as remotely as possible, outside and standing upwind in a breeze with a fire extinguisher on hand.
Doing a lot of book cover projects as practice. I found adding a layer of Acrylic clear satin sheen seals a lot of problems away, but am definitely a student and solicit feedback. Have you tried the satin sheen clear coat?
Hi Chuck; came across your channel in January and just LOVE your dedication and teaching skills! Also I really appreciate your honesty if comparing products or like in this vid stating which are typical trade-offs coming with certain dyes or finishes. Want to share my beginner's luck with preventing rub off, so plz excuse the wall of text following now...😬
I started with leathercraft in 2022 by crafting myself a custom belt because I was in need for a really broad belt after having acquired a pair of absolutely awesome winter cargo pants for hunters made of heavy wool felt. All of my ordinary 3.5 or 4 cm jeans belts looked just flimsy in those massive belt loops... So I started with a tannery pre-dyed (dark brown) veg tan belt, gave it a groove line and a felt lining for, ya know, learning that saddlers stich by putting the hours in it & also staying true to the style of the trousers. Well, what can I say, to this day I still love the grey wool+dark brown belt combo.
But I have other trousers & shorts which aren't grey, e.g. khaki or sand coloured chinos & cargos, a white one as well and all kind of shirts in lighter colours too, so while I currently make belts for these other outfits which ideally have a wider colour range that pre-dyed brown or black, I am well aware of the possible rub off.
I dye with the water-based Fiebing's "LeatherColors" (formely known as "Institutional Dye"; btw. thanks for your dye comparison vids!) and have found out by doing a set of test straps that applying the Finish sold as supplement specifically for these is good enough to prevent rub off on the skin side for all the colours I tried (red, blue, dark brown, black), but will (oddly) only do a good job on preventing flesh side and edge rub off for black and dark brown, especially after adding a top coat.
After watching this vid here, I applied my personal preference of top coat to all straps after the Fiebing's LeatherColors finish had been allowed 24 hours to dry completely. That top coat is a german finish/top coat/conditioner which combines various natural oils &waxes towards the overall goal of making the leather more supple and water repellent. It's called B&E Beeswax Leather Balm and has a Pegasus Horse as Company logo. Besides providing help with mitigating the known problem of water based dyes making the leather hard as as a board, all of the strips could then be fully submerged in water for five minutes without losing dye (I took them out because I wanted to go on with the test; maybe they would've lasted even longer without losing dye - love that top coat!). The red and blue test strips however would still rub off on white shirt material if the edges were getting heavy "see-saw" contact like you tested here in your vid.
And then I grabbed another red dyed strip which had been finished with the Fiebing's Finish but not yet top coated with the german all-purpose product and semi-carefully daubed the edges (black dye, being water based, creeped a little under the tape on flesh & skive side!) with the black LeatherColor dye, let that dry for 2 hours and then took the pure besswax cake and the burnishing stick to those edges and that was the magic bullet. Now the edges don't rub off anymore!🙃💯🕺
Best Regards & sorry for that looong text, but I tried to make my steps to success crystal clear in all steps!
Great video. To prevent rub off on my edges, i typically use fiebings edge kote followed by burnishing with wax. I also use a piece of canvas to burnish instead of a slicker or burnishing wheel. Hope I could help someone.
The problem with edgecoat is that it cracks when it flexes, and if you bang in against something or push something up against it it flakes off. Had to stop using it on my sheaths for that reason just not durable enough.
As you said black bleed is a problem. Got this tip years ago and worked well for me. Dip leather in ( I used Kelly or Fiebings spirit ) black dye 3 times then rub on black antique dye. Don’t let the antique sit on there long as it gets difficult to take off. Start rubbing off the antique and let sit a few min. Apply neutral carnauba cream all over. Let sit a few min and buff.
Thanks for the tips!
This is how I dye crazy horse. I use fiebings antique gel, a little at a time, about 3 even coats that I let dry between. I then take a warm, damp washcloth and basically give it a light scrub. Let it dry again, then I use some Saphir Renovateur, let dry again, then buff it well. No rub off whatsoever on my wallets. It's slightly time consuming, but it's better than wasting leather that I overbought and didn't want to waste.
I use the pro dye but I have some red alcohol dye a supplier sent by mistake. Red is notorious for rub off but I put a very thin coat on my veg tan and then go over it with a thin coat of pro mahogany. The colour is great and practically no rub off. Also, I bees wax my edges then burnish. I find this helps. and I use tacanole rather than tragacanth first.
Thanks for the info Chuck! I’ve been working leather for ten years now and still learn new tricks from your videos!
Thank you so much!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It's exactly what I wanted to know. The passion and knowledge you have for/of the subject are second to none. So whenever I need to know something regarding leather work, you are the first source I look to. Thanks once again.
Very interesting. The only way I know of to not get rub off is to not dye! Thanks.
Thank you for the video! Could you please do one on selling leather products locally?
Street fairs when they come back, sell to specialty stores around you, or online but that will be time consuming and not as rewarding as toe to toe meeting with customers.
"I have two straps here, like I was going to make a leather belt of a pair of straps!" Well.. Yes!
Haha, just had to! Great video as always and thank you for the tips!
Hello again Chuck & all the guys hanging out in the wednesday live sessions! I got a question for Y'all & really hope to get some feedback & good advice since I'm a beginner who doesn't want to ruin a project on the last leg of the production process.
What products and project steps do you use to not just prevent "dry" rub-off, but to also make a dyed AND antiqued belt water repellent in the sense that it does not bleed anything on the wearer if he gets into heavy rain?
My current project is a veg tan belt that has been stamped, then dyed with the red dye from the water based LeatherColors (formerly known as "Institutional Dye") and then antiqued with the medium brown antique finish paste. I'll describe at lenght what I did for finishing in the next paragraph but the "short book" is:
1) I got an absolutely stunning look - this looks EXACTLY like I want now.
2) It is not as water repellent as I would like it to be for a belt.
I found that following Chuck's advice on preventing rub-off and the method of edge finishing I described last month does an excellent job in making any strap dyed with any of the LeatherColors water repellent & safe against rub-off. So I tooled my strap, let it dry for 24 hours, beveled the edges, dip-dyed it once with the red LeatherColors, let it dry for 24 hours, then conditioned it with one application of the B&E Beeswax Leather Balm, just enough to mitigate the stiffness it got from being dip-dyed with the water-based LeatherColors. After this, I painted the edges with the black LeatherColors dye and after letting that dry I antiqued the tooled top grain with the medium brown antique finish paste. This I let dry for 45 minutes, then buffed it and then applied a heavier coat of the B&E Beeswax Leather Balm, let that wick in for an hour and buffed again. While this gives already a great look and is completely safe against dry rub-off , I then tested what happens if I splash some water over it, like, when we have a really heavy summer rain here in Germany or an accident with a glass of water at the table would happen. The red dye held it's ground, no bleedout at all, but some of the antique did bleed out, especially from the groove lines where it was thickest. I then applied one thick coat of the Fiebing`s LeatherColors Finish (Institutional Leather Dye Finish) carefully as in: no circular moves, but rather dabbing but not, repeat: NOT! sparingly with a wool dauber. After 24 hours I buffed, then repeated this step. It gives a glossy finish optically resembling Acrylic Resolene, but it's not that water repellent. Granted, I can practically hear the red dye molecules yell: "HOLD! THE LINE!!!" and they do. But the antique molecules...While they don't break completely, some of them DO run away. Now I wonder if the actual Acrylic Resolene might offer me more protection for the antique or if Bee Natural RTC Sheridan would do a better job at that - Or maybe it's something else I haven't thought of? I don't want to buy a can of every finish/sealant to test if it's the right product for that kind of project so please share your advice. Thank you in advance for reading until here and for sharing your experience!
Ok, I figured it out,so it was my first time dying, and I have 100% italian leather boots that were purple... not my color, but I had a moment, and they were on sale. So I finally caved... give them away or go for it as I could not find a cobbler to do it, but they sold me dye and a black cream for after as I did not want shinny... I stripped, dyed, dried, brushed/buffed, and repeat 3 times all but the stripping..as they needed it... then put the cream.... then spent 3 days rubbing and drying outside, rubbing, drying.... nothing.... black on my fingers if I put them on, and no matter how much I rub them, they were not coming clean.. there was no way I could wear them... no way.... so I googled and found this... no help at all... so I thought ok you know what, it's now garbage, or I get desperate and try anything, so a hot, wet cloth it is.... ummmmm, seriously !!! That's all it takes... wipe it down, and it sealed them up... I did it for a second after 2 days of dry just to get it 100% just hot / warm water on a clean white rag, and you will see. 🥂😎🤯🤦♀️💆♀️🥷
Thank you for such a comprehensive tutorial. I'm making a black bifold for my brother and I'm pretty new to dying veg-tan, so I'm really trying to ensure the wallet isn't gonna stain his pants. I've gotten good results with testing pro dye on smaller projects but maybe for the wallet I'll use a top coat since it'll be at high risk of rub off being carried in a pocket.
Wow, absolutely sold me on pro dye after this! I’ve been losing my mind coating and re-coating my belts and guitar straps with finishers when I was using regular dye, this helps a ton!
Glad I could help!
Add a thin coat of clear glue like rubber cement to the edges, them buff it down after a few hours of dry time.
Hey Chuck, have you tried Feibing's Acrylic Resolene or Pro Resist on the flesh side? I've used the resolene on small projects and it seems that one or two thin coats help quite a bit with preventing rub-off. Just wondering what your thoughts/experience are with this.
Hi Mike!
I have not but with your advice and level of comfort with it I will give it a try!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply That would be awesome to see your results and hear your thoughts on it. I've used it for sealing pieces for costumes, but I haven't received much feedback specifically about rub off from anyone I've made those items for.
You got me into leather working chuck, just made my first buttstock cuff for my marlin 336 but im having a problem with ruboff thanks for the video
I have had a lot of luck with airbrushing my dye. It certainly is more work, because you have to clean the airbrush thoroughly, but a solid kit can be purchased from harbor freight for less than $100. It applies such a thin & even coat that there is little excess to be rubbed off.
Which type of dye are you using with the airbrush? Or are you having the same results with both oil and alcohol dyes?
@@daverobb8311 I have only used alcohol dyes with it, but it gives such a light coat that I didn't see any, and haven't heard of any rub off. The dye goes straight into the gun, just make certain that you have a filtered mask that can block the dye, otherwise you'll dye your lung leather too!
An airbrush is a great option! Thanks!
@@AndrewJordan23 thank you for answering my questions and a filtered mask I have I live in New York
Love the side by side comparison. So helpful. I’ve seen some makers who paint parts of their projects and then dye. Would pro dye still be the best choice?
Hi there!
Yes, the Pro Dye works great for that as well!
Useful Knowledge. I just bought a leather journal and the red/brown dye is coming off without rubbing it with my fingers. What do you recommend that I do as it's an original pattern pressed journal?
Hmmmm.... I use the alcohol power based dyes and just use a leather conditioner that has a cleaning ingredient in it (soap/detergent) like Saphir Renevatuer or CLR Leather Conditioner, etc. After drying for a few hours I buff out with a rag and apply a light amount of leather conditioner and buff with brush. Doesn't seem to have rub-off. The conditioner seals it and the cleaning agent removes the excess. I learned it from my years of working leather shoes. Simple and Effective.
I use Eco-flo waterstain, they're so good at not rubbing off. Also, dip or spray with Resoline and it'll never rub off.
I made the mistake and bought the USMC black (which I thought was pro dye); I'm making a weight belt for my son, I glued three layers of dyed vegtan together to get a 10mm equivalent belt. Every time I touch the big blank, I get black fingers. I haven't put neatsfoot on it yet.
And I also noticed after bending the belt a bit, the layers didn't stick together so great, and I even sanded the top grain before gluing. Thinking maybe just stitching it well will hide that. Very disappointed with this project, and the fact there is NO pattern anywhere on how to make such a belt (using a $30 mechanical buckle). I made my pattern based on photos I found online. We'll see how it goes. Quite the waste of time and money so far.
Hello, don’t know if you can help. My husband had a belt that was cordovan . After the shop refurbished it , it turned out a muddy brown color. He doesn’t like the color. Is it possible to dye it back to cordovan? Thanks for any advice you may have.
I there, One thing happen to me, i used black antique leather stain fiebings, all ok but when i used hot Water to hardend the leather, 3 Days later, the dye did come out almost completly... I used tan leather, and after dye i used resist also from fiebings, even using the sponge whit the resist a lot of dye did Rub off... Dont know what was my mistake...
I am new to leather crafting but I have been using Pro Tex CAMP high content silicone water and stain protectant spray. 2 coats.
Seems to stop the brown dye transfer even on edges.
Is this bad for the leather?
I bought a leather purse of which the color from the cross-body straps keep rubbing off onto my shirt. What can I do to prevent this?
I find navy to be worse than black even. Or Angelus turquoise. I use Odies Oil and have no rub off.
I use the super penetrating and let it sit for a few hours until it starts turning just a little white and then I buff it off. Works wonders for me
I dyed my $1200 leather jacket in jet black Angelus dye and applied LP on it, problem is lot of dye is bleeding making everything like hands black, any help? Thanks
Hi Mr. Dorset, Would using diluted resolene as a top coat reduce the rub off significantly? Just wondering about using a blue eco-flo waterstain on a belt.
How do I prevent ( or later clean) light thread from picking up color from leather.
Hand stitching pink thread on black leather on leash. Thread ends up gray.
Do you have any suggestions for how to clean rub off on a leatherbound book? It's one of the Barnes and Noble leatherbound classics, so it's not super old. It may not be real leather, I'm not sure. Red dye is getting all over the cover and staining the white leather. I'd love to clean it up and use some sort of fixative if you have any suggestions!
I/ve had the best results using Resolene to prevent rub-off. Often I will line the inside with pigskin, since I like the look of it and it doesn't add much bulk. I rarely dye edges, preferring a more natural look after burnishing it with gum trag. I have dyed the edges, but I usually sand, gum trag, burnish, and repeat that process another one or two times. I like a glossy edge.
Resolene is the only ting i have found to seal rub-off. Thanks for including this!
Wouldnt resolene or eco flo super sheen (acrylic finish) prevent this entirely. The pro dye is awesome but stinks. Worth it if you take proper precautions.
I’ve never made a belt,,, I’m going to soon,,, it will be a work belt and I sweat profusely,, how do I need to treat???
Neatsfoot oil first then fiebings leather colors it's water base. Then neatsfoot oil again then last step I use fiebings leather sheen. I paint it on with a brush and let it dry. Until I get a gloss shine . If I don't want it to be shiny I put the dye on then I brush neatsfoot oil on And I get great results. No rub off good to go. Your welcome. God bless from Glenn CATT in Massachusetts. I hope you all get the same good results I have . keep working with the flesh.
Ronseal Interior Varnish+ alcohol 70+ water
= best sealer 🤫 even over alcohol dyes.
Great informational video, do you have any videos on removing strong odors from leather? I have a new leather jacket and it has a strong smell, I bought what claims to be an odor neutralizer but it was a waste of money.
Any of you all have any good way to clean dye that's rubbed off? I got a nice blonde baseball glove and the black laces are leaving a bit of a mess. I know it's not all that important but I'd like it clean it off if it's possible
I dye my leather let it dry. Then I soak it in water and scrub and wash and let it dry. Then leather sheen. I can not find any pro Dye. So I been using fiebings leather colors dark brown. It is a water base.
Can someone please answer this question, iv asked and gotten so many different answers. Aussie leather conditioner and then resolene, or vice versa?
I'm new to leather but I put a coat of a beeswax leather conditioner on the glasses case I made and that seemed to solve the issue though I imagine it's temporary.
how about spraying it with saddle lac. it would put a coating on top of the dye and give it a nice shine as well. i assume the saddle lac would eventually wear off, but by then i think the dye would be fully incorporated into the leather and maybe little or no rub off...... just a thought.
I coat my dyed veg tan with fiebings tan-kote and I have zero rub off
After I dye the leather i buff with some canvas to get excess dye off then coat it
If i accidently consume some of the dye how much before i have to worry
Example i got it all over my hands and then had a cigarette before it was all dry
Please try to tell something about how to make leather paint different colour,s and which chemicals we are use in making paint
When I use alcohol dye, I usually get little to no rub off when I let it dry for 24 hours. I also apply it using either wool daubers or an airbrush.
Using an air brush minimizes the amount of dye you add so there isn't much excess to have rub off from
on my computer the alcohol dye is like a pure pitch black and pro dye is not.. maybe i need to try the alcohol dye
For the alcohol dye, will it ever stop rubbing out or is this a forever problem?
why didnt u show dipping the strap in the pro dye? looked a lot less dyed than the alcohol but ill mind my business
Resolene helps me seal some of my work. If I don’t mind it been shinny.
What's the best black dye to change a work boot that's military brown beige. Rubber outside sole light brown . To black.
We recommend the Fiebing's Pro Dye. It's got really good coverage. www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/fiebings-pro-dye-4-oz?_pos=2&_psq=pro+dye&_ss=e&_v=1.0
I used super shene. It seals a little too much but it does work for rub off
Chuck, I would love to see a leather element video on how to create removable liners. I am blind and carry a bait pouch on my waist for my guide dog. I’m planning on making one out of leather but I don’t want the oils from the kibble to soil the leather. I’m thinking a waxed Canvas liner that can be removed and cleansed, what are your thoughts?
Put them in a plastic bag
I dyed a project and it turned out spotty how can I fix it
I dyed using Low Voc dark brown on back/front/sides. After allowing to dry overnight, it was still a little runny. So I wiped it down good and then coated the whole piece with Resolene. Something didn’t seem right immediately following the application, really tacky. I allowed it to dry for 20 minutes and it is dry but tacky to the touch. What did I do wrong or failed to do properly?
You want to make sure the dye is completely dry before adding any top coat. If the top coat is tacky, try adding it in lighter coats - you don't want a thick/heavy coat. Hope that helps!
Hi Chuck. I really enjoy your informative videos. I learn something new with every one. I've been wanting to make a pair of leather suspenders. I don't want to use snaps or clasps, but rather a loop to go over the belt. I am pretty comfortable with my idea, but am having trouble with the "crossing" in the back. I have looked at several factory made styles that all have a round or oblong piece encasing the 'cross' and stitched around the edge. This is the area that has me baffled. Could you do a Leather Element on making a pair of suspenders? I know you will have a great idea for making them look professional. Thanks again for all you do!
This guy is a whole mood
Thanks for this as I dyed a bag with black pro dye and had hideous rub off till I sealed it. I’m very much a novice though
I had the same problem with the pro dye. almost a year now and it still rubs off. I have rubbed in neatsfoot and resolene. still rubs off.
Thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
I was told to take a few drops of whatever dye color you are using mix with a conditioner then rub in to get your dye further in the leather.
This step is after you have dyed and wiped/buffed to get excess off as well as you can.
Chuck, great video. I have struggled with rub off for years and wondered what can be done to prevent it if anything. I have started lining my belts with veg tan and no dye and the same for pancake style sheaths. Thanks. Very informative.
Talk about perfect timing. Thanks
I used Fiebing’s Pro Dye in dark brown on a leather bag I’ve got and it has stained everything its been in contact with. I used the dye remover to take it off but still rub off color. How can I successfully dye it and seal it so it doesn’t stain again?
Hello! Do you know what finish and sealer was used? We would suggest trying to different finish/sealer. To prepare the bag for dye we recommend using a deglazer, then Pro Dye and then a finish/sealer. Here are links to a few great finish/sealers options we would recommend trying... www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-1967/bee-natural-rtc/pr_27365 and www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-1920/fiebings-resolene/pr_8070
I have old pair of 877s that I’d like to try and “tea core” and wondered what might work best. I’d been debating between oil and alcohol fiebings before finding this video.
My thought process was alcohol might be better for my use since:
1. I want to rub off with moderate use and show the red/orange color underneath.
2. I’m surface dying, not trying to fully die a crafted piece.
Here is my plan, at least with what I’ve learned so far:
1. Saddle soap and clean boots thoroughly.
2. Wipe surface lightly with rubbing alcohol. Just enough to remove some oils from the tip top of the grain. I think this would help alcohol dye penetrate just slightly as intended? Oil and oil mixes, while alcohol dye and the boots oils would “fight” each other.
3. Dye the boots.
4. Brush brush brush to remove excess dye. Dye again if needed and repeat.
5. Finish with very light coat of black shoe polish to even finish and enhance tea core effect.
Hoping someone can chime in with suggestions or a different method using oil based dye!
Thanks for the video, I have a quick question. I tried using fiebing's saddle lac spray on a strap for a bag after seeing one of your videos, but when it dried it started peeling and cracking off, any suggestions as to if I used it wrong or for the wrong application? I ended up rubbing it mostly off with a rag and just using a sheen instead.
Hi Pat,
The only thing I can think of is to make sure you're making light, even passes over the leather - you don't want it on there too heavy. Also making sure the bottle is room temperature or even warmed up with your hands to a little more than room temperature. I would try a light coat on some scrap with the can warmed up and if you get the same results it may be expired. If you just bought it, contact whoever you purchased it through and see about getting a replacement. If it was from Weaver we'd be happy to help you with that. Hope that helps!
Weaver Leathercraft thanks for the suggestions, I’ll try them out!
Enrico Giardina makes an edge coat that doesn't run off. Lovely man, great product from Italy.
Would you clean, oil and balm AFTER you add a antique finisher or would you clean, oil and balm before, with your dying process?
At 1:28 into the video, the alcohol based carrier will rub off faster when water (also an alcohol, chemically speaking). However, when oil is applied, the oil based carrier will bleed off.
LIKE DISOLVES LIKE.
Hi! I know nuthin' about nuthin'...but I was wondering if there was a way to put a wax finish on the leather. That might help to keep the dye from coming through and rubbing off. Just a suggestion, but like I said...I don't know what you can do with wax and leather.
Exactly what I was looking for to help mitigate dye rub off. Thank you!
Hey guys I have a question maybe (hopefully) someone could answer. I bought some black scrap split suede a while back, it's a very dark black, if I were to guess, I'd say they probably didn't complete the dye process. Just handling it turns my hands black. It's not wet, but there is a certain smell to it. I don't really know how to describe it other than raw. Is there any way I can salvage this? I'd really like to use it because it's perfect for a project I'm working on aside from the dye getting everywhere lol. Is there some way i can stop this or maybe complete the process I'm feeling like they didn't finish?
Is there anything one can do to smooth up the ruff interior of a leather holster? I'm assuming it is the back, ruff side, of the leather when the two pieces were sewed together to make the holster. It collects dust and I'm concerned about gun wear. ANY help will be appreciated. This is my first purchase of a leather holster, my next holster purchase will definitely be lined
Hi Chuck, I have a new baseball glove that is a camel color with black lacing. I applied a conditioner to break the glove in, and the black lace dye is bleeding and smudging around. How do I clean the black smudging properly?
Diamond chisel vs pricking irons?
Doing vegetable tan I run a groove and diamond chisel the holes.. now that I've been doing some top grain I've been printing pdf's that use pricking iron holes ,but I have to punch single holes...
Heres what's on my mind,. are the holes being punched bigger than the diamond forks going to leave my stitching looking lazy? If I was weaving lace these holes would be awesome, but, to just stitch what's the difference?
Question submission: Does leather have a Bias like fabric? Shrinking or stretch. I made some small cases / covers for a particular brand of ear phones that come in a small case. Veg tan. Wet formed and dried for d a day. Dyed with Fiebings, then glued ,cut and stitched. It seems that the edges shrink an leave a larger gap between the lid than what I cut. It probably me and doing something else wrong, but just thought I'd ask that question. Thank you.
I'm really starting to like these leather element videos more and more! I think just about the only dye that doesn't rub off is vinegarroon, as it isn't really a "dye" at all, but rather causes a chemical reaction within the tannins of the leather. So maybe it's a "stain"? It won't work on chrome tanned leather for this reason--it requires the tannins from the bark or "vegetable" matter used during the tanning process. At least as far as I understand. In my experience, it's an extremely durable finish.
So the positives of this method are:
1. It's inexpensive
2. No rub off, or bleeding, even without a top coat
3. It is very easy to make
And the drawbacks are:
1. The vinegarroon solution has an unpleasant smell, and it tends to hang around on the item for a while.
2. No matter how concentrated the solution is, it doesn't seem to be a very rich black. More like a very, very dark grey. It can be improved by a few coats of neatsfoot oil, but it won't ever be like a commercially made dye.
3. It is time consuming to make (although it is almost entirely hands-off)
In my opinion, most people who try vinegarroon and have unimpressive results are usually using a batch that is much too weak. If you are reading this and you are interested in making your own to try here is my method. Please keep in mind this is not terribly scientific:
Put a handful or two of rusty nails or any rusty thing in a glass jar and pour white distilled vinegar to cover. Do not put a lid on the jar, as it will produce gas and you don't want it to build up pressure. Let it sit somewhere undisturbed for several weeks. Add vinegar as needed--some will certainly evaporate. It will smell quite unpleasant and form a black crust on top. This is all fine and normal. After a few weeks, remove the rusty nails and strain all solid matter from the liquid. It is best to strain the liquid using coffee filters (please don't use the drip cone from your kitchen. You will be very sorry if you do). Once the liquid is as clear as you can get it, let it sit in the glass jar undisturbed for several more weeks, until it has evaporated down significantly. You want it to be a very dark liquid, like dark roast coffee. Strain one last time, and place in a sealed jar. Against the light, it may have a dark amber hue, but when applied to leather it will transform it to black! It works on wood, as well. I use this often to artificially age wood. Keep in mind that the final color of the wood will be in direct correlation to the tannins. So pine won't be very dark, but red oak will be jet black.
I use feibings premium dura edge finish . I use two 2:1 coat of thinned resoline with a sponge ( it gets absorbed deeply ) . Next I apply 3 coats 1:1 ratio with an airbrush .
Only took me a year to start watching these excellent videos. What about a product like Fiebing's Saddle Lac or similar? I don't make saddles or tack. But do make costume accessories and have had issues with rub off. Saddle Lac was one suggestion. The other was a paste type wax.
I found this video when asked by a customer for a black sheath for a knife I made for him. I've only ever used saddle tan dye and never experienced rub off until the black. I just purchased the non-pro as I normally do and found the same rub off experience. I've basically used elbow grease, many clean rags, and some light neatsfoot oil to work out the excess dye on the top coat. Agree, the sides are the worst offenders and slicked the heck out of them. Next time I'm going with the pro dye.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Looks like the pro dye is superior to the alcohol dye. I’m making a leather sling seat so the edges are critical and I can’t accept any rub off. Has anyone ever tried a sharpie to color the edge and then burnish or a top coat? I have dark veg tan from wicket Craig so on the edges where it is cut the color is not all the way through, but I’m wondering if I shouldn’t still leave it un colored. Thanks!
The mic 👀
New sub 4 U!
I just tried everything for two leather Bleu de Chauffe satchels that were leeching dye really badly. Don't waste your time on anything else - just go straight to using Liquid Kicks top sealant (I had to use 4 coats). It was the only way to seal in vegetable dye
Looking for help. Dyed some pieces with the pro dye, and then used a super shene finish, and it pulled the dye off in some areas. Should I use a leather sealer or something else instead?
I just came across your channel and I love your videos. If you have not covered these already here are 2 ideas for future videos. Hope you can cover these;
1) Dying suede products: difference from dying full-grain leathers? what kind of dye to use? Topcoat? Avoiding rub off? Etc…
2) Blending colors? Let's say we would like to dye a piece of sand/tan leather to olive-green; should we use green or blue so that the outcome is olive green?
Thanks!
Is it a problem to hang leather while you let the dye dry? I'm looking to die several feet of leather strips and it would be much easier if I could hang them to let them dry, but I don't know if that will cause any problem with the dye.
I only use the Pro Oil dye. I did a test many years ago with different brand/types of dye, and the colors on the Pro Oil dye were the best and had the least rub off.
Hey weaver, I ordered a saddle and unfortunately they have some real sloppy painting done on it. Can I use deglazer on a quip and remove the sloppy edges?