Totally agree with that comment . Probably the best demo I've watched. Got a right banger in the garage and lookig forward to working on it this weekend.
Thanks, now I know what specifically the L & H do. I face exactly this problem and used to tune them both without having a clue; and sometimes it worked! But now I'm going to try this again with all the info you have provided.
Just wanted to say that I appreciate you posting this how too. I recently purchased a used Husqvarna 235e and it wouldn't stay running after a few cuts I received a ton of advice from friends, but none of it was consistent. The only common ground and cheapest fix was the carb adjustment. At first I was waaaay intimidated by doing this. From what I have heard it is easy to mess this up and have a hard time readjusting it, so I never thought I myself would feel comfortable doing so. Unfortunately, I had few people that sounded like thet knew what they were actually doing. I watched this video and felt confident and compelled to attempt to adjust it myself. Well long story shorter, it worked! It idled and ran fine untill high engine speeds, I simply turned the h screw one quarter turn counterclockwise to increase the fuel delivery at high engine speeds and it fixed the issue! I understand a little bit more and feel way more comfortable with two stroke engines and how to adjust their carburetors. Thank you for that!
‼️Thank you so much for making this video, you just saved me a boat load of money 💰 by not having to take my Husqvarna to the shop & buy firewood ‼️ ‼️I made the timing & throttle adjustments on my 435 18" Husqvarna chainsaw because after 14 years of regular maintenance & running great, it started stalling when I started cutting, made your recommended adjustments & now my Husqvarna is running like new‼️ ‼️You can watch me use my chainsaw after the adjustments were made, on my channel after I post it tonight - 1/28/2023‼️ NEWCASTLE CALIFORNIA,USA 🇺🇸
It helped me greatly, making the idle adjustments while running the saw . I needed to see it done. My saw has been bogging down, now I know what to do . Thank you
It’s getting to where even if you take your saw to a saw shop, you still end up working on it. I would rather utilize a video like this and see if I can fix it first. Even if you just replace the carburetor, it’s cheaper than the labor you’ll pay to have it worked on. Thanks for the great video!
I I have learned how to work on chainsaws by using videos on how to to the repairs I have all of the tools needed to do the repairs Still learning something new every I watch a Video I am very thankful that you fellas take the time to put these awesome repair videos it just as good as a Small Engine Repair Course I am very grateful to every one that puts these videos up I TRULY THANK YOU
I bought mine a couple years ago and haven't once touched the tuning and it runs perfectly still with factory setting. I think there's a reason most dealers aren't allowed to sell the "specialty screwdrivers". They're not meant for it extra tuning and the average person doesn't know what they're doing when they try.
I've learned alot for being a new chainsaw owner. Had the same problem, cut a few times and it would quit on me. Awesome video and it was clear and concise. Thanks
Not sure if this was said elsewhere in the comments but I wanted to suggest that you really cannot say that the fuel had too little oil in it based on color these days. Today there are various oil manufacturers that make different colored oils (stihl and echo are two that come to mind) as well as all the pre-mixed fuels being different colors. Not saying you are wrong. But I would think it is pretty unlikely someone would know the oil content UNLESS they knew what oil (or premade fuel) the customer used and had enough experience with that specific combo to judge color. Thanks for the video. It was a good watch.
I have tried several approaches to adjusting the carb on Poulan Chainsaws, and can't seem to find a good setting. Your way of explaining it has helped me understand it better. Going to give it another try. Thank you.
This was very informative, thanks! To answer your question at the end, if it came to messing with the carburetor, float valve, I’d take it to an expert. 😀 But now I feel informed enough to try those initial adjustments on my own. I like your “if this, then that” diagnostic approach and tutorial.
I was looking to fix a certain problem with my saw and ended up finding the solutions for other questions I had concerning my saw . All in one stop , Thank you, great video
I have a Stihl 026, which is basically the same as the newer MS260, and a Husqvarna 61. I have adjusted the carbs several times due to weather conditions, starting problems, etc. Your video was very informative! However, if the metering diaphragm on the carb is hardening why not just replace it, along with the carb rebuild kit. It's an easy task on most saws.They aren't very expensive. And, from my experience, once the diaphragms start to harden, the problem only gets worse. And sometimes you get a decent Chinese replacement carb, and sometimes you don't... The aftermarket carbs work better on larger 4 stroke engines. I've had much better luck with them on 5hp motors, like lawnmowers (particularly Honda lawnmowers, and pressure washers). These small chainsaw carbs are so finicky, the aftermarket carbs tend to be more trouble than they're worth, imo. One more helpful tip for your video: USE ONLY ethanol free fuel and good 2cycle oil on small engines!!! And ALWAYS run small engines dry before you put them up, unless you're going to use it again within a week of storing it (like lawnmowers, and weedeaters, during the summer, etc).. Otherwise, you made a great, Informative video!! Especially for those who are afraid of adjusting a carb!!! Kudos!!! Gave you a thumbs up, and subscribed.
absolutely a great point. This video was for someone who wanted a second option to replacing the carb. If the adjustment works, and you can get away with it for some time, go for it. The same case could go for a transmission that was leaking and instead of fixing the leak, you just keep adding fluid till you trade the car in. Most people just want the easy way , which I can't blame them.
Exactly the issue I have with same model of saw. Thank you for a clear, sequential solution to tuning the carb. Great video and helped me get my saw back to running smoothly.
OK I ran the saw today and made a couple test cuts and made a little bit of adjustment. Used it the rest of the day. Thanks again, you have saved me much time on a good saw, that needed attention.
Yes after this video I would test this on my own saw. One thing you should say. That if you open the high end too much. You can and may blow the saw. If you have to open the high end that much rebuild the carb and save your self blowing the motor. This was a really helpful video. Thanks
This is the first and only vid I've found that addresses this problem. Thanks so much, perfect for a learning user like me! I recently found a poulan in my shed and want to use it as a carburator adjustment practice saw for when I eventually get something bigger than my MS170.
@@stevencarnes7790 the easiest answer is to buy the tool kit with several different ones. That way you can also use for your current and future machines.
I repair chainsaws for a living, and the only thing that I have to say about it is, you never want to compensate for bad diaphragms or carburetor problems in general you always want to take care of the problem at its source so that your chainsaw can run at optimal levels. However it's good that you show your audience that it can be compensated for because not everybody has the experience to be able to deal with carburetor issues or the money to get them taken care of so this is a simple easy fix for them. I would have told them as well though that the fuel pump diaphragm can be damaged or stiff and as a result, not delivering fuel properly to the metering side, also the port holes could be clogged, it's not just a hard diaphragms that can cause that issue but good job on your video overall.
Hi, thanks very much for your help I have a 130 saw and it was running everyday over winter. I put new chain on and saw was dieing at high revs. I have adjusted carb like you showed. Working perfectly. Thanks from a warm fire in Ireland 🇮🇪
Got to tip my hat off to you friend. A very informative and thorough video at that. I wasn't expecting the saw to "die out" under pressure (cutting the log), I thought it would work just fine. Thanks for adding that in. Well, I'm off to give it a shot. Thanks again!!
Thanks for the help I just got a brand new Husqvarna saw this morning. Mixed the gas with good quality 2 stroke oil so I knew it wasn't that. I had chain oil and the chain wasn't too tight. It started pretty easy. I warmed it up then shut it off and walked into the woods then it kept cutting out when idling. It slightly annoys me that the manufacturer would allow a brand new saw to be tuned wrong because not everyone has mechanic experience. But yeah the video was really helpful thank you.
Very helpful. Husqvarna T435. First, it did not work. I cleaned the muffler. It was very quite blocked, spark arrester and all. After reinstall, I adjusted again. Works fine. Thanks.
Thanks for the tutorial. Bringing my Wild Thing (no jokes plz😉)back to life after a couple years of inactivity. First, was changing all rotten fuel lines. Next was through cleaning of entire machine and a general very close inspection. My first attempts at running would last from 3-5 seconds. Looked for your vid and fully expect good results tomorrow. Thanks again.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Couldn’t get a new Waldron carburetor quickly, so I decided to go ahead today and disassemble the original. Broke it completely down, took a lot of care with the gaskets and diaphragms. Actually, was surprised to find some pockets of sawdust inside a couple of places. (Because I am careful to keep the filter clean and new) Used a pressurized can of a electronic cleaner I had, finished up with blasting compressed air through all the passages. Reassembled carefully, reinstalled, set the high and low to 1 3/4 turns. Primed it up. Started on the second pull! Kept it running at a very high idle till it was as warmed up, then fine tuned the idle and the high and low end. Running great. Now, if I can just get my wife to get busy with it! Thanks again for the help. Really appreciate the time you put in to share your knowledge.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE May I ask one more? Put a new chain on. The wild thing is running like a scalded dog, the chain is not bogging down, the clutch seems to be fine. But, the d-n thing will not cut a dead 8” branch! The chain will heat up and smoke, when you lean on it. The chain is installed in the correct direction. The machine is running at 100%! Very frustrating, after the care to restore it to peak efficiency.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I fixed it! I inadvertently,reinstalled the old chain! DUUUUUUUH! Probably why they make you quit pushing buttons on big Boeings at age 60!
Many thanks for this excellent video. My Husky has this problem, so I'll try the lo & Hi adjustements & order a carb kit as well. I've cleaned the carb, air filter, exhaust flame arrester & fuel filter in the tank.
Nice work best video I've seen so far on adjusting a chainsaw and testing it out at the same time is awesome. I need to work on my Husqvarna and I can do this before I go ahead and take the carb off to clean or rebuild it. Thanks again you're the best. 🤗🇨🇦
I'm going to give it a go myself as this video has given me the confidence that this Is exactly what my saw needs. Hope my metering diaphragm isn't caput!!!
just bought the 440 off a friend for $50, it wont stay running. Gonna try all this stuff and hopefully I can get her up and running! Liked and subscribed.
Nice and informative video. My near brand new Craftsman 18" that has ran for years now and then, but I would bet not a whole gallon of fuel has been through it yet. It looks very similar to this one. Last time I used it, I completely forgot to run it dry after pouring out any fuel in the tank like I usually do. Yes, dummy me. I know better, but still it happens. I needed it the other day for a small tree and found I could push the prime button several times, choke it, and it would crank up and run fine at high speed for several seconds, then die. You could prime it again and same thing would happen. Big bummer.. None of the lawn equipment repairs shops here say they will even try to repair a Craftsman. They say to just trash it and go buy a new Stihl for $189 plus tax, but they are 2" less on the bar cut. I just hate to throw away a very new chain saw just because it won't suck fuel out of the tank.... Their has to be something I can do to try and fix it. A friend said maybe the fuel line got clogged or has a small air leak that keeps engine from drawing fuel from its tank. A simple fix with new fuel line might work?? I'm not a DYI or mechanic on a lot of things except a computer network or PC I can fix most anything. Lawn equipment? Not so much. But why throw it away and not try something is my thinking? What do I have to lose by trying? Nothing but a little time. Since it runs fine on primer fuel, it still could be carb. adjustments needed like you did in this video. Maybe not. What you think is the best thing to check first and then later if that doesn't work? Joined your UA-cam channel. I expect you will have many tips and DYI stuff for me in the future. Thanks for doing those. You can comment here or send directly to my email at dgrubb001@gmail.com.
thank you David Grubb. It's not that difficult to work on these, just like on network cables, label what you can and disconnect and replace them one at a time. replace the fuel lines and Fuel filter one at a time, then replace the carb for an aftermarket one. If you get stuck send me a pic at homegaragemail@gmail.com and I should be able to walk you thru it.
Yes, I would tune L and H settings myself. My chainsaw is older than yours so I would see about replacing the metering diaphragm, even if I got it running okay. Thanks for the tip!
I accidentally left my (less than a year old) Husqvarna outside over night a couple months ago...well, it rained really heavy that night... Yesterday was the first time I've used it since then... And yes, she didn't want to stay running after some cuts... Thought maybe she got some water in the fuel...but then also noticed that it was basically out of bar oil.. I will revisit this video soon if after replacing fluids doesn't solve my problem. Great video by the way!
Thank you. This is helpful. I was unaware of the high-speed mixture adjustment. Mine seems to work fine for about 20-30 minutes cutting and idling but then bogs out like you showed in your cut part of the video. After this I cannot get the saw to start at all. It starts the next time I choose to try the saw from fully cold beginning the cycle again. I have changed the plug figuring it fouled but it doesn't change the cycle. I was considering a possible ignition issue since I cannot see the spark with the plug removed but grounded. I will try these adjustments though. I did buy this new about 3 years ago and maybe have 10 hours on it.
Question of time. If not too much else going on would tune or replace myself. If swamped with other things just leave it for a later date or take it to local full timer engines guy.
Best video I have seen on tuning your carb! I bought a new carb recently for my 235e and when i start it runs for a second; if i try and push the trigger it dies. I think i will play around with the gas at low speed first to see if i can keep it going. Do new carbs come tuned or do you have to tune them yourself?
thanks I appreciate it. No they come with a "base" tune, that should work if your chainsaw was brand new, but as saws age, a base tuned carb will need to be adjusted to work with your saw.
Well done. I like to do what I can myself. Not every tech is savvy and sometimes you're better off at least trying to fix the problems yourself. At the very least it's good to have some basic knowledge of how your machines work.
Thank you for this informative video which explained the various aspects of throttle idle speed (chain moving), low and high speed settings. I have a Husqvarna 240 and it did that cutting out/dying thing day one right from the store. I did manage to get the carb adjusted myself and got it to work properly. Just wish I would have found your video several years ago! lol. Great job explaining everything and good camera work with everything in focus and not shaky or jumping around like in other videos. I saved this link for future reference.
Thanks for this information, i got the 120 Mk 2 and the chain keeps spinning. So now after watching this vid i got the correct answer i need to tune mine.
on this one, it's not too bad. To be honest, I'd just replace the whole carb, and if you really want to, keep the old carb to practice replacing the diaphragm .
Hot damn, thanks.. been trying too figure out why it wont stay running 😕, you hit the nail on the head point blank my Brother... thank you sooo very much, i now have a working chainstick again..
I'm new with chainsaws so I really don't know a lot about them (that brought me here), but if it comes to it I'll try tuning mine by myself. How else am I going to learn if I don't get my hands dirty? Nice channel btw
It must be a small world, as I have the exact same model chainsaw which I just put a new carb on and it does exactly the same thing as this one did when you started, so I really appreciate this video and Ill try this out and hopefully it will work out good. Thanks-
@INSIDE HOUSE GARAGE Hey buddy, just found your channel and subscribed because your way of working/thinking is so much better (and better explained) than all the other chainsaw and small engine channels on UA-cam 😁👍 The reason I clicked on this video is because I have a 15yr old Stihl MS230 that's done the work of 3 pro-grade saws over those years, but last Summer I worked it really, really hard (a 4'-5' diameter willow had fallen over/into a creek at my Dad's place during the covid lockdown and I couldn't work, so I needed to do something just to stay (semi...) sane...) and it just hasn't been "right" since then... So it'll fire on full-choke, then cut-out, which is 100% normal for a Stihl. Then when I'd flip it to the 1/2-choke position and pull the starter it would always fire and run at fast-idle with the chain running relatively slowly until I blipped the throttle to cancel the choke, and then settle to idling with the chain stationary, like it should do. But now once it fires on full-choke and dies, when I set it to 1/2-choke and pull the starter it runs for maybe 2 seconds and dies again... Opening the throttle makes it die, leaving the throttle alone makes it die, and it seems to be not getting enough fuel to run for any longer than that? I've stripped and thoroughly cleaned every part of the carb twice, and the diaphragms appear to be just fine (still very flexible, no hardening, leaking or cracking), the jet is 100% clear, I put a new fuel filter in the tank in case it was blocked, blew-through the fuel-line with my compressor to clear it, but it still won't run... I've re-set the carb to the factory settings and tried tuning it (following the video on Steve's Small Engine Saloon) which is what led me to your channel, via Donyboy's video on the same topic, and here I am... Now I realise that you can't magically help from what I've told you above, but would really appreciate some of your wisdom and advice please? -I'm in the UK, and all the pump gasoline here is either 10% Ethanol (Regular) or 5% Ethanol (Super), and the pre-mix fuel here is just crazy-expensive (like the same price per litre as Jim Beam whiskey 😳), but the Stihl Super-Duper Ultra High Performance 50:1 2-Stroke Oil (the blue stuff) that I use (with 5% Ethanol Super gasoline) claims to work 100% effectively with all European gasolines up to 20% Ethanol, according to the sticker on the bottle, and Stihl UK say that I need to take my saw to my local Stihl Dealer "to be tuned", which will take 2-4 weeks and cost me the same as buying a new saw, so I'm not gonna do that... Do you think it's the fuel that's the problem (rotting pipes or diaphragms in ways that can't be seen by the naked eye), or do I have a crank-case leak or something like that? Or is it just that the saw is so old now that I need to remove the limiters from the carb-adjustment screws and start the set-up again from scratch, using my digital 2-Stroke tacho so I don't blow it up? I've just got a Zema carb rebuild kit (it's a Zema carb) in the mail that I'm going to install today so that might solve the problem, but like I said I've stripped the carb twice in the last week and everything looks just-fine, and I've been working with 2-Stroke engines on-and-off for 30 years since I was 18 and never been beaten by one yet, until now.... So... Any advice would be massively appreciated 🙂, and please keep making your excellent videos because like I said above, I'm REALLY impressed with your work 😁👍
thank you the Rogers for the information, you did a very good job explaining the situation. I always tell people, that if you clean a carb, and everything is clear and the diaphragms are in good shape, And you still have issue, To just replace the Carb. Now the rebuild kit might work too, and since you already got it, try it out, But if that doesn't work, please consider a new carb.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Thanks for your speedy reply Bud, and I'll let you know how it goes once I'm finished, which'll hopefully be in a couple of hours, but life has got in the way of me even starting just yet... 🙄
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Hey again, I did the carb rebuild and zero difference 😖 so I just ordered a replacement carb as you recommended/advised. I always take great satisfaction from fixing stuff, but I'd spent too much time, effort and money to justify wasting any more of those valuable commodities just to be able to say that "I fixed it..." to myself... 🙄 Thanks again for your help man 😁👍, and as an added bonus I fixed the sluggish drive on my Dad's Honda Self-Propelled Lawnmower after watching your video on that subject yesterday -it wasn't engaging the drive-clutch until he first pushed it to get it moving 🙁, and even though he's incredibly fit and healthy, he's still 80 years old and it's a big heavy mower that was just getting too much for him, but now he's happier than a dog with 2 tails 😁 and I'm the best son ever ☺ so I'm incredibly grateful for your excellent videos 😎👍
Good info. Thank you. my 435 is doing something similar to this but it could be anytime before it shuts off. I could cut up almost a whole tree before it shuts off or I could be a few cuts in and it would shut off. Will try fiddling with the carb a little to see if it helps.
Great video. I’m still learning so maybe the answer to this question is a bit obvious. Why do you leave the choke pulled out after the saw is running. My 460 Rancher has been randomly turning off for a while but more so lately (especially when holding the saw sideways. The saw really labored through one tree recently but should not have. I will bring it in to a service shop but was curious. This was helpful anyway.
it's like a crutch if that makes sense. The engine is still cold, and a bit of extra fuel won't hurt it. When the engine starts to warm up, I'll then take off the choke.
Your video is what I was looking for..thanks lots of information in it...I'll look at it several times and attempt to adjust mine...metering diaphram...diagram... might have to replace that...thanks so much for making the video
Great video. I have a 445. I replaced the carb, air filter, fuel filter, spark plug. All brand new. Cleaned the spark arrester. Made sure the muffler was clean. I tried your advice. I still can’t get it tuned up though. Starts and idles good. It just Boggs down with I increase the throttle. Won’t throttle high enough to cut.
@@RHayes0214 no I don't, The change from idle to High engine speed mainly requires the L screw to be adjusted first . The H is for wipe open throttle adjustment. turn the idle set screw in about 1 turn because as you add fuel at idle , it will cause the rpms to drop. Then turn the L screw out half a turn counter clockwise then try squeezing the throttle to see if it helps. if it's still bogging down then add more fuel but turn the L a quarter turn this time
Exactly what i needed. didn't want to bring it back to the shop again. Now if i can figure out why my bar nuts keep loosening in the cut and fix that i'd be solid
Exactly my symptoms. My 372xp runs great in idol, but as soon as you put it on wood, it dies after or during that initial cut... I'll have to let you know if this fixes it. (Somewhere in the garage is hiding that kit of Husky carburetor tools!) Appreciate the video!!!
Why would I pay someone to do something so simple... I would have paid for your how-to class, but I was lucky enough to find you here. Thanks for sharing, headed out to see if my diaphram has any life left to tune.
Have this exact saw, what should the idle, L and H settings be on initial start up. Do you know, ie manufacture carb settings. Thanks Love your video and presentation too by the way.
Ok that's very interesting considering the chainsaw I have to use isn't mine and every time it gets hot it shuts off won't start back up and I have to finger it just to keep it running but when I try starting it cold it takes me about ten minutes to get it to start which causes my arm to become numb for 45 to an hour.
I don't have one yet but this year I may need to buy one when I get my own property this year so maybe a Stihl chainsaw or something,Donyboy73 (aka Don Desjardins) is saying that they have an issue with the fuel & chain bar oil locking caps breaking on them so it's a never ending thing of replacing them so I'll have to think about that. I could get a Husqvarna chainsaw maybe ? As far as the spark plug running black goes,it could also be due to too much oil has been added to the fuel as well in a 2 stroke chainsaw !
Really great video,what is crazy is a fact that Husqwarna pack and sell chainsaws that are not properly tuned out of the box.This should be all set up before they leave factory. I just bought 130 and it cut great with lots of power but when i make cut and and take my hand from throttle and saw comes from high to low rpm she just die and you need to start it again. Sadly i dont have tool for adjust it yet,so it would be even get a tool or take it to the shop where i bought so they can tune it properly. It's kinda weird because my saw just made few cuts and had this problem out of the box. Other thing i dont like is a fact that you cant adjust your saw just with normal screwdriver,so you need to buy "under the counter tool" lol,to adjust it. Husqwarna obviously dont like when users messing around they saws :D
The idle speed I'd the only one that has a standard screwdriver slot, the others seem to have a specialty socket to adjust it so I didn't have any luck.
wow that was awesome i kinda new how but now i know how alot better than i did because how you went step by step better than other stuff i have read or watched thank you
I'm gonna have a go right now, interesting video though. I stored my saw with fuel in and haven't used it for 3 years. It started OK , did cut OK and then now power. I will let you know how I get on.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I cannot change the carburettor settings they are factory set ( I have a Sterwin ). I gave it a clean and looked at the fuel filter and may have dislodged something in the fuel tank as it ran a bit better. I will have a go at cleaning the fuel tank tomorrow.
Tip to anyone who's done everything and saw still won't run. If the saw is older or well used - likely the crankshaft oil seals need replacing. When worn these seals draw air in and cause saw to stall especially when tipped.
Congratulations on showing the adjustment while making test cuts. Sooo many guys do not do this. Well done brother.
that means a lot coming from you Dave. Thanks
Totally agree with that comment . Probably the best demo I've watched. Got a right banger in the garage and lookig forward to working on it this weekend.
You nailed it! Direct and to the point. No extra talking. A you tube video that is USEFUL. Thanks!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Bought a new Husqvarna. It kept stalling. Used this video to help me tune it and it runs/cuts like a champ. Thanks for posting this!
no problem Brian Mik
Thanks, now I know what specifically the L & H do. I face exactly this problem and used to tune them both without having a clue; and sometimes it worked! But now I'm going to try this again with all the info you have provided.
I have to say. Thank you. No one on u tube would explain the adjustment. I've cleaned and nothing i did the adjustment and runs fine now thank you
Glad it helped and thank you Robert Vincent
Just wanted to say that I appreciate you posting this how too. I recently purchased a used Husqvarna 235e and it wouldn't stay running after a few cuts I received a ton of advice from friends, but none of it was consistent. The only common ground and cheapest fix was the carb adjustment. At first I was waaaay intimidated by doing this. From what I have heard it is easy to mess this up and have a hard time readjusting it, so I never thought I myself would feel comfortable doing so. Unfortunately, I had few people that sounded like thet knew what they were actually doing. I watched this video and felt confident and compelled to attempt to adjust it myself. Well long story shorter, it worked! It idled and ran fine untill high engine speeds, I simply turned the h screw one quarter turn counterclockwise to increase the fuel delivery at high engine speeds and it fixed the issue! I understand a little bit more and feel way more comfortable with two stroke engines and how to adjust their carburetors.
Thank you for that!
no problem and thank you Jenn Campbell.
This was the best adjustment video I’ve seen. Doing it while cutting was key point. I had all the problems you showed
thank you Growing Little Country homestead
‼️Thank you so much for making this video, you just saved me a boat load of money 💰 by not having to take my Husqvarna to the shop & buy firewood ‼️
‼️I made the timing & throttle adjustments on my 435 18" Husqvarna chainsaw because after 14 years of regular maintenance & running great, it started stalling when I started cutting, made your recommended adjustments & now my Husqvarna is running like new‼️
‼️You can watch me use my chainsaw after the adjustments were made, on my channel after I post it tonight - 1/28/2023‼️
NEWCASTLE CALIFORNIA,USA 🇺🇸
thank you Big Pie for letting me know you had success with the repair.
It helped me greatly, making the idle adjustments while running the saw .
I needed to see it done.
My saw has been bogging down, now I know what to do .
Thank you
Great to hear!
It’s getting to where even if you take your saw to a saw shop, you still end up working on it. I would rather utilize a video like this and see if I can fix it first. Even if you just replace the carburetor, it’s cheaper than the labor you’ll pay to have it worked on. Thanks for the great video!
agreed and good choice
Very well done! Clear explanations and great camera shots...answered my questions and got me thinking in a logical progression. Thanks for the video
Glad it was helpful!
I I have learned how to work on chainsaws by using videos on how to to the repairs I have all of the tools needed to do the repairs Still learning something new every I watch a Video I am very thankful that you fellas take the time to put these awesome repair videos it just as good as a Small Engine Repair Course I am very grateful to every one that puts these videos up I TRULY THANK YOU
no problem and thank you
I bought mine a couple years ago and haven't once touched the tuning and it runs perfectly still with factory setting. I think there's a reason most dealers aren't allowed to sell the "specialty screwdrivers". They're not meant for it extra tuning and the average person doesn't know what they're doing when they try.
you are correct,
I've learned alot for being a new chainsaw owner. Had the same problem, cut a few times and it would quit on me. Awesome video and it was clear and concise. Thanks
thank you Emerson Nolan
Not sure if this was said elsewhere in the comments but I wanted to suggest that you really cannot say that the fuel had too little oil in it based on color these days. Today there are various oil manufacturers that make different colored oils (stihl and echo are two that come to mind) as well as all the pre-mixed fuels being different colors. Not saying you are wrong. But I would think it is pretty unlikely someone would know the oil content UNLESS they knew what oil (or premade fuel) the customer used and had enough experience with that specific combo to judge color.
Thanks for the video. It was a good watch.
yes you are correct about the Fuel color and mixture.
I have tried several approaches to adjusting the carb on Poulan Chainsaws, and can't seem to find a good setting. Your way of explaining it has helped me understand it better. Going to give it another try. Thank you.
Glad I could help
This was very informative, thanks! To answer your question at the end, if it came to messing with the carburetor, float valve, I’d take it to an expert. 😀 But now I feel informed enough to try those initial adjustments on my own. I like your “if this, then that” diagnostic approach and tutorial.
thank you Bill Heiser, I appreciate it.
I adjusted mine. It was new. Started, but lifting up or cutting chainsaw would die. Now it runs great!! Thank you.
no problem and you did a good job adjusting it
This video is by far the best I found on youtube; very thorough and concise. Thank you much.
Glad it was helpful!
I was looking to fix a certain problem with my saw and ended up finding the solutions for other questions I had concerning my saw . All in one stop , Thank you, great video
thank you Eli R
I would make my own adjustments...trial and error...you'll never learn unless you try. Thanks for another great vid!
So very true. I used to be afraid that I would make a mistake and I have but I've learned from them.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE my exact experience!
leonardo migot This type of carb does not have a float.
leonardo migot I don’t think you know what the heck you’re talking about.
I have a Stihl 026, which is basically the same as the newer MS260, and a Husqvarna 61. I have adjusted the carbs several times due to weather conditions, starting problems, etc. Your video was very informative! However, if the metering diaphragm on the carb is hardening why not just replace it, along with the carb rebuild kit. It's an easy task on most saws.They aren't very expensive. And, from my experience, once the diaphragms start to harden, the problem only gets worse.
And sometimes you get a decent Chinese replacement carb, and sometimes you don't... The aftermarket carbs work better on larger 4 stroke engines. I've had much better luck with them on 5hp motors, like lawnmowers (particularly Honda lawnmowers, and pressure washers). These small chainsaw carbs are so finicky, the aftermarket carbs tend to be more trouble than they're worth, imo.
One more helpful tip for your video: USE ONLY ethanol free fuel and good 2cycle oil on small engines!!! And ALWAYS run small engines dry before you put them up, unless you're going to use it again within a week of storing it (like lawnmowers, and weedeaters, during the summer, etc)..
Otherwise, you made a great, Informative video!! Especially for those who are afraid of adjusting a carb!!! Kudos!!!
Gave you a thumbs up, and subscribed.
absolutely a great point. This video was for someone who wanted a second option to replacing the carb. If the adjustment works, and you can get away with it for some time, go for it. The same case could go for a transmission that was leaking and instead of fixing the leak, you just keep adding fluid till you trade the car in. Most people just want the easy way , which I can't blame them.
Exactly the issue I have with same model of saw. Thank you for a clear, sequential solution to tuning the carb. Great video and helped me get my saw back to running smoothly.
Glad it helped
Wow. I gotta try this .... Thanks for being clear and consise and not holding the camera in your hand while you were filming. Great edit
no problem
OK I ran the saw today and made a couple test cuts and made a little bit of adjustment. Used it the rest of the day.
Thanks again, you have saved me much time on a good saw, that needed attention.
Glad I could help and you did a great job getting it running too.
Thank you so much for helping people like me that really want to know how to take care of problems ourselves!!!
no problem Mark Mills.
I have the same saw having the same problem. Thank you for the video and the clear, concise explanation of how to make the adjustments.
Glad it helped
Yes after this video I would test this on my own saw. One thing you should say. That if you open the high end too much. You can and may blow the saw. If you have to open the high end that much rebuild the carb and save your self blowing the motor. This was a really helpful video. Thanks
thanks for the tip
This is the first and only vid I've found that addresses this problem. Thanks so much, perfect for a learning user like me!
I recently found a poulan in my shed and want to use it as a carburator adjustment practice saw for when I eventually get something bigger than my MS170.
no problem, thanks for the comment
Best video I’ve seen one how to tune the carburetor on a chainsaw. Thank you for the great information.
no problem and thank you
I do have one question I have a 440 and I’m not sure which tool I need to order. The 21 spline or the 7 spline tool?
@@stevencarnes7790 the easiest answer is to buy the tool kit with several different ones. That way you can also use for your current and future machines.
I repair chainsaws for a living, and the only thing that I have to say about it is, you never want to compensate for bad diaphragms or carburetor problems in general you always want to take care of the problem at its source so that your chainsaw can run at optimal levels. However it's good that you show your audience that it can be compensated for because not everybody has the experience to be able to deal with carburetor issues or the money to get them taken care of so this is a simple easy fix for them. I would have told them as well though that the fuel pump diaphragm can be damaged or stiff and as a result, not delivering fuel properly to the metering side, also the port holes could be clogged, it's not just a hard diaphragms that can cause that issue but good job on your video overall.
hey thanks for stopping by
Hi, thanks very much for your help I have a 130 saw and it was running everyday over winter.
I put new chain on and saw was dieing at high revs.
I have adjusted carb like you showed. Working perfectly.
Thanks from a warm fire in Ireland 🇮🇪
nice work and thank you for your time.
Got to tip my hat off to you friend. A very informative and thorough video at that. I wasn't expecting the saw to "die out" under pressure (cutting the log), I thought it would work just fine. Thanks for adding that in. Well, I'm off to give it a shot. Thanks again!!
no problem and thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the help I just got a brand new Husqvarna saw this morning. Mixed the gas with good quality 2 stroke oil so I knew it wasn't that. I had chain oil and the chain wasn't too tight. It started pretty easy. I warmed it up then shut it off and walked into the woods then it kept cutting out when idling. It slightly annoys me that the manufacturer would allow a brand new saw to be tuned wrong because not everyone has mechanic experience. But yeah the video was really helpful thank you.
Glad I could help
Rebuilt my whole carburetor and still was having these exact issues. Very helpful video! Thank you!
no problem
After watching you do it I feel comfortable giving it a try. Your explanation was excellent.
Glad it was helpful!
I want to thank you again…. Adjusted my saw today and it’s back running.
Great to hear!
Yes I tune all of my own small engines but I've learned a lot from watching your videos
thank you Arnold Reite, and thanks for the comment .
It works, I'm almost getting crazy fixing my chainsaw until I saw this video. Thank you very much.
No problem 👍
I know it's an older video but you have just helped me understand some things going on with my trimmer. Thanks buddy
no problem and thank you for your time
Very helpful. Husqvarna T435. First, it did not work. I cleaned the muffler. It was very quite blocked, spark arrester and all.
After reinstall, I adjusted again. Works fine.
Thanks.
Glad it helped
Great tutorial. I'm in the midst of adjusting mine now!
good luck, hopefully you'll get it working right.
Thanks for the tutorial.
Bringing my Wild Thing (no jokes plz😉)back to life after a couple years of inactivity.
First, was changing all rotten fuel lines.
Next was through cleaning of entire machine and a general very close inspection.
My first attempts at running would last from 3-5 seconds.
Looked for your vid and fully expect good results tomorrow.
Thanks again.
no problem and let me know how it goes
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Couldn’t get a new Waldron carburetor quickly, so I decided to go ahead today and disassemble the original.
Broke it completely down, took a lot of care with the gaskets and diaphragms.
Actually, was surprised to find some pockets of sawdust inside a couple of places. (Because I am careful to keep the filter clean and new)
Used a pressurized can of a electronic cleaner I had, finished up with blasting compressed air through all the passages.
Reassembled carefully, reinstalled, set the high and low to 1 3/4 turns.
Primed it up. Started on the second pull!
Kept it running at a very high idle till it was as warmed up, then fine tuned the idle and the high and low end.
Running great. Now, if I can just get my wife to get busy with it!
Thanks again for the help.
Really appreciate the time you put in to share your knowledge.
no problem and thank you for the update.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE May I ask one more?
Put a new chain on.
The wild thing is running like a scalded dog, the chain is not bogging down, the clutch seems to be fine.
But, the d-n thing will not cut a dead 8” branch!
The chain will heat up and smoke, when you lean on it.
The chain is installed in the correct direction.
The machine is running at 100%!
Very frustrating, after the care to restore it to peak efficiency.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I fixed it!
I inadvertently,reinstalled the old chain! DUUUUUUUH!
Probably why they make you quit pushing buttons on big Boeings at age 60!
Many thanks for this excellent video. My Husky has this problem, so I'll try the lo & Hi adjustements & order a carb kit as well. I've cleaned the carb, air filter, exhaust flame arrester & fuel filter in the tank.
hope it works out for you.
I feel very comfortable doing in myself now thanks to you. 👍
Excellent!
Yup.
^What ScottysDetailing said^ 😁👍
Nice work best video I've seen so far on adjusting a chainsaw and testing it out at the same time is awesome. I need to work on my Husqvarna and I can do this before I go ahead and take the carb off to clean or rebuild it. Thanks again you're the best. 🤗🇨🇦
thank you Benjamin Crooker
I'm going to give it a go myself as this video has given me the confidence that this Is exactly what my saw needs. Hope my metering diaphragm isn't caput!!!
thank you Paul Eaton, and good luck with the repair.
Logical, well thought out and calming demeanor. Thank You for your time.
thank you for your time as well!
just bought the 440 off a friend for $50, it wont stay running. Gonna try all this stuff and hopefully I can get her up and running! Liked and subscribed.
good luck and thank you Qmed Joe.
Nice and informative video. My near brand new Craftsman 18" that has ran for years now and then, but I would bet not a whole gallon of fuel has been through it yet. It looks very similar to this one. Last time I used it, I completely forgot to run it dry after pouring out any fuel in the tank like I usually do. Yes, dummy me. I know better, but still it happens. I needed it the other day for a small tree and found I could push the prime button several times, choke it, and it would crank up and run fine at high speed for several seconds, then die. You could prime it again and same thing would happen. Big bummer..
None of the lawn equipment repairs shops here say they will even try to repair a Craftsman. They say to just trash it and go buy a new Stihl for $189 plus tax, but they are 2" less on the bar cut. I just hate to throw away a very new chain saw just because it won't suck fuel out of the tank.... Their has to be something I can do to try and fix it. A friend said maybe the fuel line got clogged or has a small air leak that keeps engine from drawing fuel from its tank. A simple fix with new fuel line might work?? I'm not a DYI or mechanic on a lot of things except a computer network or PC I can fix most anything. Lawn equipment? Not so much. But why throw it away and not try something is my thinking? What do I have to lose by trying? Nothing but a little time. Since it runs fine on primer fuel, it still could be carb. adjustments needed like you did in this video. Maybe not. What you think is the best thing to check first and then later if that doesn't work? Joined your UA-cam channel. I expect you will have many tips and DYI stuff for me in the future. Thanks for doing those. You can comment here or send directly to my email at dgrubb001@gmail.com.
thank you David Grubb. It's not that difficult to work on these, just like on network cables, label what you can and disconnect and replace them one at a time. replace the fuel lines and Fuel filter one at a time, then replace the carb for an aftermarket one. If you get stuck send me a pic at homegaragemail@gmail.com and I should be able to walk you thru it.
Yes, I would tune L and H settings myself. My chainsaw is older than yours so I would see about replacing the metering diaphragm, even if I got it running okay. Thanks for the tip!
no problem and thank you for the comment.
I accidentally left my (less than a year old) Husqvarna outside over night a couple months ago...well, it rained really heavy that night... Yesterday was the first time I've used it since then... And yes, she didn't want to stay running after some cuts... Thought maybe she got some water in the fuel...but then also noticed that it was basically out of bar oil..
I will revisit this video soon if after replacing fluids doesn't solve my problem.
Great video by the way!
thanks and good luck
Oh shit man,I would dump the fuel out of it and pour some fresh Husqvarna 50:1 Pre Mix gas in it and some synthetic bar and chain oil.
@@brianeastman3547 way ahead of you my friend. But thank you! 😁
Mate
BEST CARB TUNING
I
HAVE SEEN !!!!!!!!
thank you very much
Thanks just what I needed... I cleaned the carbs from both my 141 and my 365 but had a hell of a time tuning both saws.
Glad it helped
Wow, just what i am experiencing. Your video gave me the confidence to do it myself. Thanks Boss!!
Glad I could help
Best explanations yet. My saw is doing exactly what yours is doing. Out to the garage I go.
good luck Robert Bridges
Thank you. This is helpful. I was unaware of the high-speed mixture adjustment. Mine seems to work fine for about 20-30 minutes cutting and idling but then bogs out like you showed in your cut part of the video. After this I cannot get the saw to start at all. It starts the next time I choose to try the saw from fully cold beginning the cycle again. I have changed the plug figuring it fouled but it doesn't change the cycle. I was considering a possible ignition issue since I cannot see the spark with the plug removed but grounded. I will try these adjustments though. I did buy this new about 3 years ago and maybe have 10 hours on it.
good luck too you but also don't for about the fuel tank vent as well.
Excellent visual presentation demonstrating diagnostic process, solution process and results.
Many thanks!
Question of time. If not too much else going on would tune or replace myself. If swamped with other things just leave it for a later date or take it to local full timer engines guy.
well said
Best video I have seen on tuning your carb!
I bought a new carb recently for my 235e and when i start it runs for a second; if i try and push the trigger it dies. I think i will play around with the gas at low speed first to see if i can keep it going. Do new carbs come tuned or do you have to tune them yourself?
thanks I appreciate it. No they come with a "base" tune, that should work if your chainsaw was brand new, but as saws age, a base tuned carb will need to be adjusted to work with your saw.
I will try and tune my own saw from now on . Thanks for sharing .
No problem 👍
Well done. I like to do what I can myself. Not every tech is savvy and sometimes you're better off at least trying to fix the problems yourself. At the very least it's good to have some basic knowledge of how your machines work.
thank you r1deftone
Thank you for this informative video which explained the various aspects of throttle idle speed (chain moving), low and high speed settings. I have a Husqvarna 240 and it did that cutting out/dying thing day one right from the store. I did manage to get the carb adjusted myself and got it to work properly. Just wish I would have found your video several years ago! lol. Great job explaining everything and good camera work with everything in focus and not shaky or jumping around like in other videos. I saved this link for future reference.
no problem and you did a great job working on your equipment!
Great video, my Dad and I had the exact same issue and dialed in the fuel… Saw works great again… Thanks for sharing!!!
Great to hear!
Thanks for this information, i got the 120 Mk 2 and the chain keeps spinning. So now after watching this vid i got the correct answer i need to tune mine.
Glad it helped
Well done and much appreciated. Is replacing the metering diaphragm difficult, when these adjustments are no longer sufficient?
on this one, it's not too bad. To be honest, I'd just replace the whole carb, and if you really want to, keep the old carb to practice replacing the diaphragm .
Brilliant and useful explanation especially the typing explanation as the saw ran. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video! Exactly as determined by the circumstances. Logical sequence of fixing the issue.
thank you Henry GREY.
That’s the exact saw I need to tune up. but I think I will rebuild the carb first. Thanks for the tips.
Glad to help
Hot damn, thanks.. been trying too figure out why it wont stay running 😕, you hit the nail on the head point blank my Brother... thank you sooo very much, i now have a working chainstick again..
no problem and thank you Dav Bing.
I dont knownif its just me but this is the best video I have seen on this.
thank you Zachary Brindle.
I will definitely do this myself. Super helpful video. Mine stalls when chain brake is applied.
yes definitely give it a try
I'm having this issue with 2 brand new 120s. Thank you so much for the tutorial.🙏
Glad it helped
I'm new with chainsaws so I really don't know a lot about them (that brought me here), but if it comes to it I'll try tuning mine by myself. How else am I going to learn if I don't get my hands dirty? Nice channel btw
thank you gatol I appreciate it
It must be a small world, as I have the exact same model chainsaw which I just put a new carb on and it does exactly the same thing as this one did when you started, so I really appreciate this video and Ill try this out and hopefully it will work out good. Thanks-
no problem and thank you !
@INSIDE HOUSE GARAGE Hey buddy, just found your channel and subscribed because your way of working/thinking is so much better (and better explained) than all the other chainsaw and small engine channels on UA-cam 😁👍
The reason I clicked on this video is because I have a 15yr old Stihl MS230 that's done the work of 3 pro-grade saws over those years, but last Summer I worked it really, really hard (a 4'-5' diameter willow had fallen over/into a creek at my Dad's place during the covid lockdown and I couldn't work, so I needed to do something just to stay (semi...) sane...) and it just hasn't been "right" since then...
So it'll fire on full-choke, then cut-out, which is 100% normal for a Stihl.
Then when I'd flip it to the 1/2-choke position and pull the starter it would always fire and run at fast-idle with the chain running relatively slowly until I blipped the throttle to cancel the choke, and then settle to idling with the chain stationary, like it should do.
But now once it fires on full-choke and dies, when I set it to 1/2-choke and pull the starter it runs for maybe 2 seconds and dies again...
Opening the throttle makes it die, leaving the throttle alone makes it die, and it seems to be not getting enough fuel to run for any longer than that?
I've stripped and thoroughly cleaned every part of the carb twice, and the diaphragms appear to be just fine (still very flexible, no hardening, leaking or cracking), the jet is 100% clear, I put a new fuel filter in the tank in case it was blocked, blew-through the fuel-line with my compressor to clear it, but it still won't run...
I've re-set the carb to the factory settings and tried tuning it (following the video on Steve's Small Engine Saloon) which is what led me to your channel, via Donyboy's video on the same topic, and here I am...
Now I realise that you can't magically help from what I've told you above, but would really appreciate some of your wisdom and advice please?
-I'm in the UK, and all the pump gasoline here is either 10% Ethanol (Regular) or 5% Ethanol (Super), and the pre-mix fuel here is just crazy-expensive (like the same price per litre as Jim Beam whiskey 😳), but the Stihl Super-Duper Ultra High Performance 50:1 2-Stroke Oil (the blue stuff) that I use (with 5% Ethanol Super gasoline) claims to work 100% effectively with all European gasolines up to 20% Ethanol, according to the sticker on the bottle, and Stihl UK say that I need to take my saw to my local Stihl Dealer "to be tuned", which will take 2-4 weeks and cost me the same as buying a new saw, so I'm not gonna do that...
Do you think it's the fuel that's the problem (rotting pipes or diaphragms in ways that can't be seen by the naked eye), or do I have a crank-case leak or something like that?
Or is it just that the saw is so old now that I need to remove the limiters from the carb-adjustment screws and start the set-up again from scratch, using my digital 2-Stroke tacho so I don't blow it up?
I've just got a Zema carb rebuild kit (it's a Zema carb) in the mail that I'm going to install today so that might solve the problem, but like I said I've stripped the carb twice in the last week and everything looks just-fine, and I've been working with 2-Stroke engines on-and-off for 30 years since I was 18 and never been beaten by one yet, until now....
So... Any advice would be massively appreciated 🙂, and please keep making your excellent videos because like I said above, I'm REALLY impressed with your work 😁👍
thank you the Rogers for the information, you did a very good job explaining the situation. I always tell people, that if you clean a carb, and everything is clear and the diaphragms are in good shape, And you still have issue, To just replace the Carb. Now the rebuild kit might work too, and since you already got it, try it out, But if that doesn't work, please consider a new carb.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Thanks for your speedy reply Bud, and I'll let you know how it goes once I'm finished, which'll hopefully be in a couple of hours, but life has got in the way of me even starting just yet... 🙄
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Hey again, I did the carb rebuild and zero difference 😖 so I just ordered a replacement carb as you recommended/advised.
I always take great satisfaction from fixing stuff, but I'd spent too much time, effort and money to justify wasting any more of those valuable commodities just to be able to say that "I fixed it..." to myself... 🙄
Thanks again for your help man 😁👍, and as an added bonus I fixed the sluggish drive on my Dad's Honda Self-Propelled Lawnmower after watching your video on that subject yesterday -it wasn't engaging the drive-clutch until he first pushed it to get it moving 🙁, and even though he's incredibly fit and healthy, he's still 80 years old and it's a big heavy mower that was just getting too much for him, but now he's happier than a dog with 2 tails 😁 and I'm the best son ever ☺ so I'm incredibly grateful for your excellent videos 😎👍
no problem, and good luck with it.
Good info. Thank you. my 435 is doing something similar to this but it could be anytime before it shuts off. I could cut up almost a whole tree before it shuts off or I could be a few cuts in and it would shut off. Will try fiddling with the carb a little to see if it helps.
good luck with it, and don't forget about the tank vent.
Great instructional and I will definitely make my own adjustments. Thank you! 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. I’m still learning so maybe the answer to this question is a bit obvious. Why do you leave the choke pulled out after the saw is running. My 460 Rancher has been randomly turning off for a while but more so lately (especially when holding the saw sideways. The saw really labored through one tree recently but should not have. I will bring it in to a service shop but was curious. This was helpful anyway.
it's like a crutch if that makes sense. The engine is still cold, and a bit of extra fuel won't hurt it. When the engine starts to warm up, I'll then take off the choke.
Your video is what I was looking for..thanks lots of information in it...I'll look at it several times and attempt to adjust mine...metering diaphram...diagram... might have to replace that...thanks so much for making the video
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. I have a 445. I replaced the carb, air filter, fuel filter, spark plug. All brand new. Cleaned the spark arrester. Made sure the muffler was clean. I tried your advice. I still can’t get it tuned up though. Starts and idles good. It just Boggs down with I increase the throttle. Won’t throttle high enough to cut.
When trying to throttle up and it bogs, which screw are you adjusting to try and fix the problem?
I’ve tried adjusting both at different times, with no success. Do you suggest only adjusting the H and perhaps only turning counterclockwise?
@@RHayes0214 no I don't, The change from idle to High engine speed mainly requires the L screw to be adjusted first . The H is for wipe open throttle adjustment. turn the idle set screw in about 1 turn because as you add fuel at idle , it will cause the rpms to drop. Then turn the L screw out half a turn counter clockwise then try squeezing the throttle to see if it helps. if it's still bogging down then add more fuel but turn the L a quarter turn this time
Ok great! Thank you!
@@RHayes0214 no problem
Exactly what i needed. didn't want to bring it back to the shop again. Now if i can figure out why my bar nuts keep loosening in the cut and fix that i'd be solid
you should be able to replace the studs and nuts, and if still get's loose, then the bar might be worn out along with the drive gear on the clutch.
Great job on the diagnosis
Thank you
Exactly my symptoms. My 372xp runs great in idol, but as soon as you put it on wood, it dies after or during that initial cut... I'll have to let you know if this fixes it. (Somewhere in the garage is hiding that kit of Husky carburetor tools!) Appreciate the video!!!
no problem. hopefully it works out for you.
Why would I pay someone to do something so simple... I would have paid for your how-to class, but I was lucky enough to find you here. Thanks for sharing, headed out to see if my diaphram has any life left to tune.
thanks Crazy Dave, I appreciate that.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE my saw's idling again, thanks!! Hey, would you know where to pick up a new diaphram? My high is turned all the way up.
sure I go to amazon and look at the pics to match the one that's on the carb.
Have this exact saw, what should the idle, L and H settings be on initial start up. Do you know, ie manufacture carb settings. Thanks Love your video and presentation too by the way.
unfortunately I do not know what the Factory settings are But you could probably find them, on a forum.
Very good video, tried it and help my chain saw improve performance. Thank You.
Glad it helped
Yeah mine does the same thing but I was just wondering what's the TV right up under the iron screw is
Ok that's very interesting considering the chainsaw I have to use isn't mine and every time it gets hot it shuts off won't start back up and I have to finger it just to keep it running but when I try starting it cold it takes me about ten minutes to get it to start which causes my arm to become numb for 45 to an hour.
wow ,that terrible.
I am going to have another look at my chainsaw and have a go at this. Thanks!
no problem
I would tune it myself since I have a lot of experience with that !
I bet you'd do an excellent job of it too. What's your personal saw?
I don't have one yet but this year I may need to buy one when I get my own property this year so maybe a Stihl chainsaw or something,Donyboy73 (aka Don Desjardins) is saying that they have an issue with the fuel & chain bar oil locking caps breaking on them so it's a never ending thing of replacing them so I'll have to think about that.
I could get a Husqvarna chainsaw maybe ?
As far as the spark plug running black goes,it could also be due to too much oil has been added to the fuel as well in a 2 stroke chainsaw !
@@RussellBooth1977 I understand.
Gonna give it a shot when I get home, fingers crossed its somerting simple.
good luck !
Really great video,what is crazy is a fact that Husqwarna pack and sell chainsaws that are not properly tuned out of the box.This should be all set up before they leave factory.
I just bought 130 and it cut great with lots of power but when i make cut and and take my hand from throttle and saw comes from high to low rpm she just die and you need to start it again.
Sadly i dont have tool for adjust it yet,so it would be even get a tool or take it to the shop where i bought so they can tune it properly.
It's kinda weird because my saw just made few cuts and had this problem out of the box.
Other thing i dont like is a fact that you cant adjust your saw just with normal screwdriver,so you need to buy "under the counter tool" lol,to adjust it.
Husqwarna obviously dont like when users messing around they saws :D
you are correct about that.
Very helpful. Off to try and adjust the H counterclockwise 1/4 of a turn...
the H is for full speed adjustment, if yours is bogging down when squeezing the trigger, I would try the L screw first, then the H.
Mine has the same symptoms think I'll give it a shot now.
give it a shot and I would like an update as to what happens.
The idle speed I'd the only one that has a standard screwdriver slot, the others seem to have a specialty socket to adjust it so I didn't have any luck.
@@xbrandon502x I understand
Thanks this should save me a trip to the shop.
Glad to help
We will certainly try to adjust it ourselves before taking it to the repair shop.
I hope you give it try, and if not, they'll fix it for you.
wow that was awesome i kinda new how but now i know how alot better than i did because how you went step by step better than other stuff i have read or watched thank you
no problem
I'm gonna have a go right now, interesting video though. I stored my saw with fuel in and haven't used it for 3 years. It started OK , did cut OK and then now power. I will let you know how I get on.
hopefully it goes well.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I cannot change the carburettor settings they are factory set ( I have a Sterwin ). I gave it a clean and looked at the fuel filter and may have dislodged something in the fuel tank as it ran a bit better. I will have a go at cleaning the fuel tank tomorrow.
ok
Tip to anyone who's done everything and saw still won't run.
If the saw is older or well used - likely the crankshaft oil seals need replacing.
When worn these seals draw air in and cause saw to stall especially when tipped.
thank you for the tip
Ultra excellent. Thank you for your work Brother. Really appreciate this.
no problem and thank you