So this video was actually a request from one of our subscribers. Thanks so much for the suggestion. We hope this video helps any and all of you to take the leap and do this in your basement. And of course after you DryLok you can use any finish color you want over it. Let us know about your project and please Like, Comment, and Subscribe
Jeff, you're a likable guy! Great since of humor.😂 Thank you for narrating, past the belly-laughs. Great bloopers. All that aside, you answered my question. I never had used DryLok, and was seeing if I was to do a light coat and wait a few days and apply a heavy coat. You didn't say anything about different coats, besides, applying it heavy. One point you can add to your skill-set, when loading your roller, especially when using a thick paint, roll thru the paint, up the ramp, then lay your brush on the roller to lock it in to that spot, pick it up and set it back in the tray and roll it up the ramp again. Gravity won't be able to auto-rotate the full part of the roller to the bottom, because of the brush''s pressure. You also get-er-done without getting paint on your hands. Bill, from TN.. 🇺🇸
I just purchased a home built in 1951. The basement walls have a tan paint on them. Is there a way to tell if the paint is something like Drylock, or any other kind of a water sealing paint? It is not cracked nor is it powdery. It looks pretty good in fact.
Hey Chris, my guess is that the paint you are seeing is NOT drilok because that is normally white. (It can be tinted). If the walls are in condition thought I wouldn’t worry about them. Also, some people seal the foundation with drilok and then put one more coat over that with a tinted paint for the color that they want.
I purchased a home in 2020 and the previous owner painted the poured concrete walls white. Can drylock be applied over the paint? I'm not sure what type of paint it is. I have one section of the wall that water seeps through just slightly during a heavy rain. My basement floor does not butt up to the wall as there is about a two inch gap all around the perimeter of the basement. My sump pit is in the left corner with 3 inch corrugated pipe around the perimeter too. 1988 build. Thanks.
just like to say thanks it was a very nice video you did a very good job I'm going to follow in your steps and do my basement walls the same as you did here keep the videos coming thanks😂😊
My basement has already been drylocked but there are areas of wear where the paint has worn off or chipped and peeled. Could i just touch up the areas with peeling or is there other preparation necessary?
It all depends. You might want to scrape the effected area and use a little spackle or drywall mud to even out any imperfections. I hate paint pocks. LOL after you spackle to even things out just light sand and then paint. I do have other videos that show some of that.
Just purchased a house with an unfinished basement. The grading outside of the house needs to addressed. But in addition, we have some light staining on the walls, nothing on the floor. Would you remove/scrape away the “white/gray crystalline” off the wall and then drylock it? End goal is to finish the basement into a work out area and a theater/hangout space.
I would scrape and prep the walls and DriLok them. I would also regrade the exterior to have all the ground pitching away from the house. A six inch rise over 10’ is the best pitch
Was the moisture causing the paint to flake off the wall? I have an outdoor wall where painting is flaking off the wall (I see you had to scrape the flaky paint off the wall) so I'm wondering if dryloking the wall would solve the issue before I repaint the wall. Please advise. Also should I prime the wall before I put the paint?
I know below it says you can use a sprayer for paint, but can you use a sprayer to apply the drylok? Also would you Drylok the floor? and also seal up the seam from wall to floor?
It all depends on how much prep work and the general conditions of the walls. You should find that most painters will charge anywhere from .90 to $1.20 per square foot
Thanks for sharing. May I know what product you used to clean the wall? Drylok's instruction says that we cant apply the product on wall which has dust, flaking and any other PAINT. Wondering how you managed to work around that.
Thanks so much for the question. We scraped and used a wire brush to clean the defective paint off the wall. We just washed down the walls and brushed them down to ensure the dust was gone. No chemicals were used.
Nice video. What do you suggest for a basement in which the blocks were painted red? The previous owners put dry wall over the blocks and now were experiencing water leaks. I took down the drywall and the cinder blocks are painted with barn red. I tried applying the Primer with a brush but it turns a reddish color. Can I spray the Primer on the blocks? tks, Mark
Hey Mark, it concerns me that the primer is turning a reddish color. Is the red paint that soft that it is blending with the primer or is it just bleeding through because the red is so dark? (Red is difficult to cover) If it’s blending with the primer then you have an issue with the material that they used to seal the block? Or you are experiencing an effervescent issue and the moisture in the block has destroyed the stability of the paint. Make sure you scrape and prepare the wall and then try it again. If you still have an issue with blending then you may have to use a different primer. If the existing paint is oil based then you may need a primer to seal that off. If its just bleeding through then I would finish the drilok and then use a good quality finish paint to cover the color. Maybe a couple of coats. And yes you can spray the drilok as well. If you have the correct tools to do that it certainly is an acceptable approach. And by the way, THANKS SO MUCH for watching and asking.
@@homerehabpros9617 I believe the walls were painted with Red Barn paint a long time ago...in the 50's? I was thinking of using an aerosol Primer instead of brushing it on. You think that would work? tks, Mark
I would very interested in how that works ouT. I would suggest you Use a KILZ product that is a STAIN blocker as well. I think it will maximize your effort. PLEASE LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES.
Great question. It is NOT designed to be used on drywall. It is best suited for use on concrete or masonry block. If you want to drilok your masonry walls before you drywall that is fine. Then use a mildew resistant paint on your drywall. Also, in a basement it is a good idea to use mold resistant drywall as well. Some people use the term GREEN board or BLUE board. So - DriLok your masonry walls….fur out or frame your walls…use green board on the walls and then paint with a mold or mildew resistant paint. If you already have drywall installed and you are having moisture issues you may need to remove the drywall and start over again.
It certainly would not hurt to use drilok on an application like that. Stone used in those foundations are usually porous and the paint would help to seal that. Also if you have mortar between the stones it would certainly help with that as well.
DriLok will actually absorb into on pocks and irregularities that might exist. For this reason we would put the DriLok on first and let it dry completely and then if you want to apply flex seal then you can.
Thanks for the question. You can, or you can use a finish paint to give it a different sheen, eggshell, satin, even semi gloss if you were wanting a shine to it.
All this does is trap moisture in the blocks which will eventually build up and disintegrate your wall. Get interior or exterior waterproofing. Drylok is a bad idea
Thanks for the comment. DriLok is really only for condensation, sweating, and secondary moisture issues. If you are having actual water issues in your basement then I would definitely encourage a deeper look at the problem. DriLok doesn’t solve every problem that is for sure.
Thank you for making this correct observation. Correcting the problem requires preventing water/moisture infiltration on the exterior of the wall. This seems to temporarily conceal a deeper underlying problem. I urge extreme caution relying on this "solution."
While this may be true for houses with severe moisture issues….bunch of gallons of dry lock VS compete excavation around the house, placing drains, gravel, rubber membrane on the walls. Yeah that is the better way. But we are talking a few hundred dollars VS 10s of thousands of dollars. But yes…interior and exterior waterproofing is “better” no question about it
@@anthony1113 The real issue is this -- prevent the problem at the outset by careful design of the foundation, which means that the builder should incur upfront costs to avoid having unsuspecting home owners incur large costs so that a builder can save a few dollars. Further, after a home is constructed, inexpensive solutions like the one described in this video just shift costs from one home owner to the next unsuspecting home owner. It concerns me that this video propagates a bad practice that conceals an underlying problem rather than solving the problem.
I have excavated replaced footer drains and water proofed from the outside. I would like to paint my block walls. Is Dry-lock the most appropriate product for this?
You can certainly do the job outside as well but it would require excavating or digging to expose the foundation underground, and you would use a different material on the block.
Thanks for the comment but I respectfully disagree. Although your suggestion is a good one when you have water intrusion our video is NOT about that. It is about simple moisture issues. In the video we mention that this does NOT help with actual water leaks and water in your basement. DriLOk does NOT and should NOT be used in every situation but it definitely does have it’s place.
So this video was actually a request from one of our subscribers. Thanks so much for the suggestion. We hope this video helps any and all of you to take the leap and do this in your basement. And of course after you DryLok you can use any finish color you want over it. Let us know about your project and please Like, Comment, and Subscribe
Thank You. Single mom and first-time home owner.
Thanks for sharing this video
Jeff, you're a likable guy! Great since of humor.😂 Thank you for narrating, past the belly-laughs. Great bloopers.
All that aside, you answered my question. I never had used DryLok, and was seeing if I was to do a light coat and wait a few days and apply a heavy coat. You didn't say anything about different coats, besides, applying it heavy.
One point you can add to your skill-set, when loading your roller, especially when using a thick paint, roll thru the paint, up the ramp, then lay your brush on the roller to lock it in to that spot, pick it up and set it back in the tray and roll it up the ramp again. Gravity won't be able to auto-rotate the full part of the roller to the bottom, because of the brush''s pressure. You also get-er-done without getting paint on your hands.
Bill, from TN.. 🇺🇸
First…thanks so much for watching. Second thanks for the tip.
Thank you for this video. Was ventilation an issue?
Not really. The VOC ratings are low and its water based. Thanks for watching
Should I put dry lock down first and then flex seal or vice versa?
I just purchased a home built in 1951. The basement walls have a tan paint on them. Is there a way to tell if the paint is something like Drylock, or any other kind of a water sealing paint? It is not cracked nor is it powdery. It looks pretty good in fact.
Hey Chris, my guess is that the paint you are seeing is NOT drilok because that is normally white. (It can be tinted). If the walls are in condition thought I wouldn’t worry about them. Also, some people seal the foundation with drilok and then put one more coat over that with a tinted paint for the color that they want.
If it’s not broke, don’t fix it
I purchased a home in 2020 and the previous owner painted the poured concrete walls white. Can drylock be applied over the paint? I'm not sure what type of paint it is. I have one section of the wall that water seeps through just slightly during a heavy rain. My basement floor does not butt up to the wall as there is about a two inch gap all around the perimeter of the basement. My sump pit is in the left corner with 3 inch corrugated pipe around the perimeter too. 1988 build. Thanks.
Thanks for a great video. What size nap of roller did you use?
3/4” nap is best on a job like this
just like to say thanks it was a very nice video you did a very good job I'm going to follow in your steps and do my basement walls the same as you did here keep the videos coming thanks😂😊
Thank you so much for your time and your kindness
@@homerehabpros9617 thats a temporary fix , use rapid set waterproof mortar and then use dry lock to paint it ..
@@Guatemaya1 Thanks for your input. Good suggestion
@@homerehabpros9617 thats what im doing and its working and lasting for years
Effervescence - I have a small amount of it on some basement wall blocks. This might fix..
Nice clear video. is there a strong odor from Drylok? If I do my garage walls, will I need to keep doors open for a dryin time - 3 hours? Thank you!
Yes there is a bit of odor with it but it is water based so it’s not overpowering. Venting is always a good idea
This was great
My basement has already been drylocked but there are areas of wear where the paint has worn off or chipped and peeled. Could i just touch up the areas with peeling or is there other preparation necessary?
It all depends. You might want to scrape the effected area and use a little spackle or drywall mud to even out any imperfections. I hate paint pocks. LOL after you spackle to even things out just light sand and then paint. I do have other videos that show some of that.
Just purchased a house with an unfinished basement. The grading outside of the house needs to addressed. But in addition, we have some light staining on the walls, nothing on the floor. Would you remove/scrape away the “white/gray crystalline” off the wall and then drylock it? End goal is to finish the basement into a work out area and a theater/hangout space.
I would scrape and prep the walls and DriLok them. I would also regrade the exterior to have all the ground pitching away from the house. A six inch rise over 10’ is the best pitch
@@homerehabpros9617 thanks! There is a nice little trench up next to the house, which allows water to collect and seep down.
Oh yeah….gotta fill that trench
Good video!
What's the link to your video that shows how to correct water coming in the home?
We have not done that video yet…Sorry
@@homerehabpros9617 O wow.
Great work.can i paint over drylock ?my garagewalls is grey semi gloss
DriLok can be painted over but it doesn’t really work over paint
I've heard sealing cement walls downstairs can cause issues with water getting trapped behind the paint fwiw...
We’ve never had an issue
How much drylok did it take to cover that wall? Thanks!
Just that wall probably took about 1/4 of a gallon to maybe 1/3. Thanks for watching.
Was the moisture causing the paint to flake off the wall? I have an outdoor wall where painting is flaking off the wall (I see you had to scrape the flaky paint off the wall) so I'm wondering if dryloking the wall would solve the issue before I repaint the wall. Please advise. Also should I prime the wall before I put the paint?
The dampness and moisture is leaching in from the outside. DriLok helps seal the wall. Primer really doesn’t accomplish anything in the case
Excellent instructions. Thanks!
I know below it says you can use a sprayer for paint, but can you use a sprayer to apply the drylok? Also would you Drylok the floor? and also seal up the seam from wall to floor?
We usually do about 1 foot out from the wall. We always apply it with a roller for better coverage actually
How much should you charge to install dry lock by sq ft?
It all depends on how much prep work and the general conditions of the walls. You should find that most painters will charge anywhere from .90 to $1.20 per square foot
Thanks for sharing.
May I know what product you used to clean the wall?
Drylok's instruction says that we cant apply the product on wall which has dust, flaking and any other PAINT.
Wondering how you managed to work around that.
Thanks so much for the question. We scraped and used a wire brush to clean the defective paint off the wall. We just washed down the walls and brushed them down to ensure the dust was gone. No chemicals were used.
Nice video. What do you suggest for a basement in which the blocks were painted red? The previous owners put dry wall over the blocks and now were experiencing water leaks. I took down the drywall and the cinder blocks are painted with barn red. I tried applying the Primer with a brush but it turns a reddish color. Can I spray the Primer on the blocks? tks, Mark
Hey Mark, it concerns me that the primer is turning a reddish color. Is the red paint that soft that it is blending with the primer or is it just bleeding through because the red is so dark? (Red is difficult to cover) If it’s blending with the primer then you have an issue with the material that they used to seal the block? Or you are experiencing an effervescent issue and the moisture in the block has destroyed the stability of the paint. Make sure you scrape and prepare the wall and then try it again. If you still have an issue with blending then you may have to use a different primer. If the existing paint is oil based then you may need a primer to seal that off. If its just bleeding through then I would finish the drilok and then use a good quality finish paint to cover the color. Maybe a couple of coats. And yes you can spray the drilok as well. If you have the correct tools to do that it certainly is an acceptable approach. And by the way, THANKS SO MUCH for watching and asking.
@@homerehabpros9617 I believe the walls were painted with Red Barn paint a long time ago...in the 50's? I was thinking of using an aerosol Primer instead of brushing it on. You think that would work? tks, Mark
Enjoy watching your videos, thanks for helping us DYS's!
I would very interested in how that works ouT. I would suggest you Use a KILZ product that is a STAIN blocker as well. I think it will maximize your effort. PLEASE LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES.
Thanks!
Thank you. How long can this drylock last?
Should last for some time. A few years.
Thank you 🙏🏾
Can this be used on sheetrock walls or ceiling? Thanks!
Great question. It is NOT designed to be used on drywall. It is best suited for use on concrete or masonry block. If you want to drilok your masonry walls before you drywall that is fine. Then use a mildew resistant paint on your drywall. Also, in a basement it is a good idea to use mold resistant drywall as well. Some people use the term GREEN board or BLUE board. So - DriLok your masonry walls….fur out or frame your walls…use green board on the walls and then paint with a mold or mildew resistant paint. If you already have drywall installed and you are having moisture issues you may need to remove the drywall and start over again.
What about a foundation that has stone with block above the stone layer?
It certainly would not hurt to use drilok on an application like that. Stone used in those foundations are usually porous and the paint would help to seal that. Also if you have mortar between the stones it would certainly help with that as well.
If I wanted to use dry lock and flex seal as a double duty layer...which should I put on first?
DriLok will actually absorb into on pocks and irregularities that might exist. For this reason we would put the DriLok on first and let it dry completely and then if you want to apply flex seal then you can.
The easy part was demonstrated but what about that corner and the pipes?
The corners and pipes we paint with a brush.
Hi, can I use a sprayer to paint the wall?
You sure can
@@homerehabpros9617 Thank you love your channel
The bloopers made it😂
Thanks….I liked it too
How much did you use?
You can figure about 1 gallon for 250 square feet
Unless you remove ALL of the previous coating there is no warranty from Drylok. It is meant for completely bare block.
Can you do a second coat?
Thanks for the question. You can, or you can use a finish paint to give it a different sheen, eggshell, satin, even semi gloss if you were wanting a shine to it.
All this does is trap moisture in the blocks which will eventually build up and disintegrate your wall. Get interior or exterior waterproofing. Drylok is a bad idea
Thanks for the comment. DriLok is really only for condensation, sweating, and secondary moisture issues. If you are having actual water issues in your basement then I would definitely encourage a deeper look at the problem. DriLok doesn’t solve every problem that is for sure.
Thank you for making this correct observation. Correcting the problem requires preventing water/moisture infiltration on the exterior of the wall. This seems to temporarily conceal a deeper underlying problem. I urge extreme caution relying on this "solution."
While this may be true for houses with severe moisture issues….bunch of gallons of dry lock VS compete excavation around the house, placing drains, gravel, rubber membrane on the walls. Yeah that is the better way. But we are talking a few hundred dollars VS 10s of thousands of dollars. But yes…interior and exterior waterproofing is “better” no question about it
@@anthony1113 The real issue is this -- prevent the problem at the outset by careful design of the foundation, which means that the builder should incur upfront costs to avoid having unsuspecting home owners incur large costs so that a builder can save a few dollars. Further, after a home is constructed, inexpensive solutions like the one described in this video just shift costs from one home owner to the next unsuspecting home owner. It concerns me that this video propagates a bad practice that conceals an underlying problem rather than solving the problem.
I have excavated replaced footer drains and water proofed from the outside. I would like to paint my block walls. Is Dry-lock the most appropriate product for this?
How about you do it from outside
You can certainly do the job outside as well but it would require excavating or digging to expose the foundation underground, and you would use a different material on the block.
That roller is going to absorb about half a gallon you are better off using a brush.
It didn’t quite hold that much, and of course you can clean the excess paint out of the roller and back into the container
Never do this! Install sump system and parge the walls with concrete repair.
Thanks for the comment but I respectfully disagree. Although your suggestion is a good one when you have water intrusion our video is NOT about that. It is about simple moisture issues. In the video we mention that this does NOT help with actual water leaks and water in your basement. DriLOk does NOT and should NOT be used in every situation but it definitely does have it’s place.
Do both. We have a sump pump and still get water in a long hard rain.
😂😂😅😊
I think this just covers up the problem. Your not gonna see any mold growing with this on there.
Appreciate your input. Thanks so much for watching.
Drylok as well as others contain a mold inhibitor so it will not allow any mold to grow.