Brock, you need to string line your tracks. The mill rides on the tracks and really has little to do with the bunk being level or not. Of course you want the bunks level, but the tracks need to be straight and the string will tell you. There are lots of videos showing how to do this if you search it. Best of luck my friend.
Back it in, detach from the ball and maneuver it around by hand until you get it placed where you want. I’ve been moving single axle boat trailers around in tight places for years. Doing it by hand gives you precise control.
I second what TIMBERVISIONS says. As far as leveling I’d consider using a water level taking readings from each end and middle of the tracks. You can recheck and maintain that level easily even with a big log on the mill. Great video!!!!
Seems you have the "leveling issue" figured out pretty well. I have an HM122 Woodlander and it works basically the same way, just work your way around it. One trick you might want to try is once you have it leveled (square with itself) attach some RV leveling indicators at strategic spots around the mill, which will cost less than the 8' level. As for moving the mill in and out of the building either a removable tung wheel or a ball attachment on your tractor or skid steer will work.
Get a hitch adapter that fits on the end of your forklift from Titan attachments. You can turn a trailer on a dime. I move my trailers in my barn with one and absolutely love it.
Good afternoon Brock. I've been quiet the last couple of days and I'm no expert on sawmills but I think that as far as moving the mill into the quanset hut option #3 is the best. #1 is not how you'd prefer it. #2 and you will at some point kink the frame(rails). It may not happen right away but it will eventually happen because the frame will get old and fatigue. That, I'm an expert at. 😁😁👍 As far as leveling it, I would keep some pieces of hardwood approximately 12"×12" a couple of inches thick as leveling pads but the idea of setting a log on the mill is a good one but I would have the level at least close first. That way you're not putting too much stress on the frame rails. This is what happens when I keep quiet for a few days. I'll be watching to see what you decide. You'll probably get better advice than mine from more knowledgeable people but I figured that I'd throw my two cents in anyway. God bless and have a wonderful rest of the day. 👍👍🙂 P.S. The reason that I've been quiet and running late is because we finally finished my new lean-to. It's great to have good friends and family.
A trailer tongue jack with wheels or a trailer dolly will allow you to pivot the trailer on level ground. The leveling would be easier and more secure if the trailer had 8 jacks instead of 6. They will need to be equally spaced to support the flexible frame.
Great video, Brock. I wonder if it would fit where u guys cleaned up that old cement slab behind the house. All u would have to do is add walls and a roof
Yeah. I was thinking 10x10's, but regardless, those jacks need some kind of larger base under them. And they'd be easy to make, he's got plenty of wood :)
#1 Set it on firm ground, not bare earth. You need stable concrete pads or packed foundation of stone. #2 Make up a series of vinyl tubes with upright tees at each end & 3 in the middle, to make 5 uprights on each side. Clamp to frame & fill with water to halfway height of frame. Now you can level it at each section to exactly the same as the others. #3 Set a log on & check. If it moves a lot, increase your levelers. Moves a little, adjust to perfect & saw the log. You can check with each log, or make the foundation more secure. Leveled machinery this way for 48 yrs. Even machine to machine this works perfectly.
You say "leveling", but you mean alignment or straightening. Until you bolt it back to your frame, or stop it from "deflecting" your problem will not go away!
Personally, your option 3 sounds like the safest, and probably easy as well. (trailer ball on the forks). Welding on, or adding structure to that trailer might mess up your ability to level it like you mentioned.
I wouldn't carry the mill. I would put the pallet forks on the skid steer and put the forks all the way to the one side to benefit you and put a ball hitch on the forks and you should be able to jack knife it in pretty hard, we always moved farm quipment into winter storage this way and it works so good, you can really make some tight turns.
Put a ball on one of your forks. Then it may be easyer to "drive" the mill into the hut and place like you had it with the old setup. I think lifting it could damage the mill.
When you move or transport the mill, all the weight is supported by the axle in the middle of the frame, so don't see why moving with forks would hurt anything. When pulling it down the road it will be bouncing which I think would be worse than lifting with forks for a few feet
There IS a secret to leveling your mill, but alas, it's a secret. JK. Set each of the jacks on firm footing, such as (portable) concrete blocks. Set up a laser level nearby and level the entire thing -- not just 6, or even 8 foot pieces of it. Is 6 points of contact with the ground really enough?
Brock I like how you really think things through. God bless
Option 3 - ball on the end of your pallet forks. And if you leave it outside put some pads under your leveler’s. Great videos!
Your last idea is the best.
A tongue jack with wheels seems to be the safest and least expensive solution.
Brock, to keep it from sinking in after you level it put pads under the jacks. I enjoy your channel.
Brock, you need to string line your tracks. The mill rides on the tracks and really has little to do with the bunk being level or not. Of course you want the bunks level, but the tracks need to be straight and the string will tell you. There are lots of videos showing how to do this if you search it. Best of luck my friend.
Back it in, detach from the ball and maneuver it around by hand until you get it placed where you want. I’ve been moving single axle boat trailers around in tight places for years. Doing it by hand gives you precise control.
I second what TIMBERVISIONS says. As far as leveling I’d consider using a water level taking readings from each end and middle of the tracks. You can recheck and maintain that level easily even with a big log on the mill. Great video!!!!
Seems you have the "leveling issue" figured out pretty well. I have an HM122 Woodlander and it works basically the same way, just work your way around it. One trick you might want to try is once you have it leveled (square with itself) attach some RV leveling indicators at strategic spots around the mill, which will cost less than the 8' level. As for moving the mill in and out of the building either a removable tung wheel or a ball attachment on your tractor or skid steer will work.
Get a hitch adapter that fits on the end of your forklift from Titan attachments. You can turn a trailer on a dime. I move my trailers in my barn with one and absolutely love it.
This sounds like a great idea.
Just a thought. A pond needs a shade tree and nothing better than a draping Willow tree.
Good afternoon Brock. I've been quiet the last couple of days and I'm no expert on sawmills but I think that as far as moving the mill into the quanset hut option #3 is the best. #1 is not how you'd prefer it. #2 and you will at some point kink the frame(rails). It may not happen right away but it will eventually happen because the frame will get old and fatigue. That, I'm an expert at. 😁😁👍 As far as leveling it, I would keep some pieces of hardwood approximately 12"×12" a couple of inches thick as leveling pads but the idea of setting a log on the mill is a good one but I would have the level at least close first. That way you're not putting too much stress on the frame rails. This is what happens when I keep quiet for a few days. I'll be watching to see what you decide. You'll probably get better advice than mine from more knowledgeable people but I figured that I'd throw my two cents in anyway. God bless and have a wonderful rest of the day. 👍👍🙂 P.S. The reason that I've been quiet and running late is because we finally finished my new lean-to. It's great to have good friends and family.
A trailer tongue jack with wheels or a trailer dolly will allow you to pivot the trailer on level ground. The leveling would be easier and more secure if the trailer had 8 jacks instead of 6. They will need to be equally spaced to support the flexible frame.
Cut a square hole in the side of the building and back it in. Then build an overhang out from the roof.
Do you check your cants to see if they are square to the bed rails? Are your 6x6s square?
Great video, Brock. I wonder if it would fit where u guys cleaned up that old cement slab behind the house. All u would have to do is add walls and a roof
Put some 2x8x8 pads on the ground under the adjustment legs instead of the legs going straight to the ground to keep them from sinking into the ground
Good suggestion to support and stabilize the jacks.
Yeah. I was thinking 10x10's, but regardless, those jacks need some kind of larger base under them. And they'd be easy to make, he's got plenty of wood :)
As far as mobility I would put fork pockets under the frame at the center of gravity! (depends on where you park the head!)
approaching 100,000 subs👍
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trailer ball on skid steer is easiest and actually safest
#1 Set it on firm ground, not bare earth. You need stable concrete pads or packed foundation of stone. #2 Make up a series of vinyl tubes with upright tees at each end & 3 in the middle, to make 5 uprights on each side. Clamp to frame & fill with water to halfway height of frame. Now you can level it at each section to exactly the same as the others. #3 Set a log on & check. If it moves a lot, increase your levelers. Moves a little, adjust to perfect & saw the log. You can check with each log, or make the foundation more secure. Leveled machinery this way for 48 yrs. Even machine to machine this works perfectly.
The idea here is that I will be taking this mill and setting it up in a lot of different locations. Not just my house.
Hey Brock just a thought but why not use a trailer dolly to get it turned into position once you get it inside.
Might be a good option
use a spreader bar on lift
You say "leveling", but you mean alignment or straightening. Until you bolt it back to your frame, or stop it from "deflecting" your problem will not go away!
Personally, your option 3 sounds like the safest, and probably easy as well. (trailer ball on the forks). Welding on, or adding structure to that trailer might mess up your ability to level it like you mentioned.
I wouldn't carry the mill. I would put the pallet forks on the skid steer and put the forks all the way to the one side to benefit you and put a ball hitch on the forks and you should be able to jack knife it in pretty hard, we always moved farm quipment into winter storage this way and it works so good, you can really make some tight turns.
I Just woke up 🤪
Put a ball on one of your forks. Then it may be easyer to "drive" the mill into the hut and place like you had it with the old setup. I think lifting it could damage the mill.
When you move or transport the mill, all the weight is supported by the axle in the middle of the frame, so don't see why moving with forks would hurt anything. When pulling it down the road it will be bouncing which I think would be worse than lifting with forks for a few feet
I don't care if you wear that mowing with a breeze thing. Good channel.
Build a new bigger quansa hut 🤪 , Ask woodland mills , , stake pockets & extra steel bracing . Last option 😝ask paul 🤪
Put a ball on your fork I wouldn't take a chance on twisting my frame
Make removel tongue
Don't mill by your pond ,your making a mess by your pond
There IS a secret to leveling your mill, but alas, it's a secret. JK. Set each of the jacks on firm footing, such as (portable) concrete blocks. Set up a laser level nearby and level the entire thing -- not just 6, or even 8 foot pieces of it. Is 6 points of contact with the ground really enough?
Try other options 1st.!..do not lift it without bracing !
pc
If I know you, you'll figure this out rather quickly without any input from me!