From the look of it, it's really more about inspecting for broken parts, and looking for heat? I'll be interested to see the re-assembly with the new gear set.
Very informative video . . the original, dated Powerglide in my '68 Camaro is being removed and rebuilt next week at a local transmission shop. It is NOT a race car because most of the cars life ( up until 2007 ) it had the base six cylinder in it. There is a 327-300 in it now. I'm anxious to see what it looks like inside - it's possible that it has never been apart, with the car having only 40,000 miles on it. After TWO attempts fixing the pan gasket to stop it leaking ( it wasn't the pan gasket, probably the main seal ) I decided to just have it taken apart to see "whats going on". I watched your video hoping to see what all is involved by taking it apart - now I know - it might be one of the easiest to rebuild, but it looks complicated to ME !!! Thanks for a great demonstration..
We just had our power glide take a shot mid race. We race dirt circle track with a GMC crate motor and Ford 9 in. We run in 1st gear so as to meet our gear rule. Mid race, under power it just stopped driving. No slip, no noises, clean fluid. Came out of corner and pit power to it and at mid front stretch it stopped pulling. Motor reved to 5999 and we shut it down . Gonna pull it in an and hope u may have suggestions to look for
Another cool and informative video! Appreciate your thought process during disassembly and inspection. I’ve never raced with an automatic but found it useful regardless. Keep at it! Peace
Damn turbo john is there anything you dont know ? You are probably the most informative drag racing channel on youtube. Most of what you show us most racers consider guarded secrets lol hope to see some new personal best e.t's from You and randy this season!
Not to guys like me big guy I been working on cars all my life I have even built 3 drag cars with my dad and even I would send a transmission out to be built I wouldn't of even attempted to do it myself lol and not cause I'm rich either but because I dont have the know how lol your the man cant wait to see how she runs !
Sitting here at the end looking at all those pieces on the table. Please let us know how to get it back together also John. Love the content. Hope we are all racing again soon.
@@TurboJohnRacing Some trans gel to hold the rollers and you will be all good. How do you measure the clearance on that direct? Measure the stack and subtract it from the depth of the drum?
Tst still sells that planet parts are avalible reseal it . Not sure what clutches your running in that high pack but should have a thinner steel avalible and get 10 in there .... and with all the bumping in turbo car stuff you should be able to get 10 in reverse as well ... I'm thinking when you had that opinion nut issue that may have hurt that thrust washer .. some guys roller that thrust but with straight cut gears it's not needed no real load on them unless something pushes on the drive shaft or engine is allowed to push back and takes up the slip yolk distance
I had 10 in it at one point, and did not like the way it stacked with clearance. The blue clutches were a little thicker. I have the thin .060's I'm going back in. Will see how many it holds to get the right stack height.
Man you just made me realize that I’ve got a new 8F35 tore apart on my bench at work 😫 it’s been apart for a least a month waiting on parts and I’ve been off work for the last 3 weeks. It’s gonna suck rebuilding that thing! 😥
Just wondering, I had my Powerglide rebuilt. I'm now installing it back into the vehicle. I did a test installation of the torque convertor to check the fit on the input shaft. I believe I inserted the torque convertor properly, but never exactly sure. I went to pull the torque convertor off, but I noticed some resistance when pulling the torque converter off. After overcoming the resistance, the input shaft came out also. I was able to wiggle and then remove the input shaft from the torque converter . It felt as is the input shaft wedged itself into something inside the torque converter . Now the input shaft will not go back into the trans. I can insert it about 5 in, but no further. Any thoughts on this ? I wasnt' sure if I should tap it with a rubber hammer ? I feel as if the shaft is hitting a solid piece of something that is not allowing it to re-engage. Thanks
Do not tap. Sometimes the wedding band makes it difficult to go in, and sometimes the brass bushing in the planetary slides down. Look in the pump to see if you see anything misaligned
Hey Jon. I'm running a jw glide. Turbo shaft. The 2 steel rings on the shaft is wat I'm needing. Can I buy jus those 2 rings. 749600 tci shaft. Thanks.
I'm running a stock case..cheeta valve body hard front shaft, because I twisted the stock one..mine keeps blowing front seal.i have new bushing in front.idk what to do.600 hp.s10 3rd time 150 miles on new motor
Turbo John can I remove the trans brake solenoid from the transmission and the transmission still work? It appears that my electric solenoid is leaking transmission fluid, is that possible? Thanks.
@@TurboJohnRacing I removed the trans brake solenoid but couldn't find a plug for it, so I pulled a used vacuum modulator off another 2 speed I had and used it, no leak and the transmission work as designed. I run in the foot brake class but I will get another solenoid from Jegs soon. Good luck and be safe on the track.
There could be, I think he said something about previous damage and that’s why there was only 9 friction plates. Remember you can stack steels but not frictions, the pressure plate looked scored up a little, would probably slip if there was a friction there.
Yes, this is right. It had 10 frictions at some point, then I toasted it. And stacked it with 9 and a couple thicker frictions or steels to get the clearance right. @jcnpresser is absolutely correct, can stack steel to steel for shims.
I bought my case used, so I did not pay attention to that. I would think aftermarket cases should not need much prep for transbrake. I would call reid and check with your valve body instructions.
@@TurboJohnRacing I knew an old mechanic who worked on transmissions he said his body was filled with heavy metals from the oils he absorbed in his hands over the years
See there is a good side to corona. You would have tightened the band and kept it moving and it would have wiped out your sick power glide. I really wanna get more skilled with transmissions. I have very little experience with them. I’ve built 1000 or more engines and only 2 trans. My next learning experience is definitely gona be transmissions
Those are some easy ones to start with, has the same principle as any other trans, less parts to remember. 350th are pretty easy. That’s what I did when I was in trade school. One thing I learned after school on my th350 was check the valve body, I destroyed 2 direct drums from a sticking 2-3 valve.
From the look of it, it's really more about inspecting for broken parts, and looking for heat? I'll be interested to see the re-assembly with the new gear set.
Now I gotta find part 2 of this series! 👍
Man I appreciate all the videos especially like these. Keep up good work John
Thanks!
Preventive Maintenance, saves Cash an a#s.. Nice job John
Very informative video . . the original, dated Powerglide in my '68 Camaro is being removed and rebuilt next week at a local transmission shop. It is NOT a race car because most of the cars life ( up until 2007 ) it had the base six cylinder in it. There is a 327-300 in it now. I'm anxious to see what it looks like inside - it's possible that it has never been apart, with the car having only 40,000 miles on it. After TWO attempts fixing the pan gasket to stop it leaking ( it wasn't the pan gasket, probably the main seal ) I decided to just have it taken apart to see "whats going on". I watched your video hoping to see what all is involved by taking it apart - now I know - it might be one of the easiest to rebuild, but it looks complicated to ME !!! Thanks for a great demonstration..
We just had our power glide take a shot mid race. We race dirt circle track with a GMC crate motor and Ford 9 in. We run in 1st gear so as to meet our gear rule.
Mid race, under power it just stopped driving. No slip, no noises, clean fluid. Came out of corner and pit power to it and at mid front stretch it stopped pulling. Motor reved to 5999 and we shut it down . Gonna pull it in an and hope u may have suggestions to look for
Great Video John ... You Have the best content...
Thanks for hanging out
Hope to see a rebuild video! Pretty simple
Coming soon! Hope to have it back together next week.
Another cool and informative video! Appreciate your thought process during disassembly and inspection. I’ve never raced with an automatic but found it useful regardless. Keep at it! Peace
Thanks
Damn turbo john is there anything you dont know ? You are probably the most informative drag racing channel on youtube. Most of what you show us most racers consider guarded secrets lol hope to see some new personal best e.t's from You and randy this season!
Thanks, I know a little about quite a few things. But not an expert on anything
Not to guys like me big guy I been working on cars all my life I have even built 3 drag cars with my dad and even I would send a transmission out to be built I wouldn't of even attempted to do it myself lol and not cause I'm rich either but because I dont have the know how lol your the man cant wait to see how she runs !
Wow theres nothing to a glide. I really had no idea lol never looked into them. The more you know! Thanks john 👌
Sitting here at the end looking at all those pieces on the table. Please let us know how to get it back together also John. Love the content. Hope we are all racing again soon.
With ALL the needle bearings, 😬
I am not looking forward to the planetary rebuild....lol just have to take your time
I got a few mins you can have John.
@@TurboJohnRacing Some trans gel to hold the rollers and you will be all good. How do you measure the clearance on that direct? Measure the stack and subtract it from the depth of the drum?
Tst still sells that planet parts are avalible reseal it . Not sure what clutches your running in that high pack but should have a thinner steel avalible and get 10 in there .... and with all the bumping in turbo car stuff you should be able to get 10 in reverse as well ... I'm thinking when you had that opinion nut issue that may have hurt that thrust washer .. some guys roller that thrust but with straight cut gears it's not needed no real load on them unless something pushes on the drive shaft or engine is allowed to push back and takes up the slip yolk distance
I had 10 in it at one point, and did not like the way it stacked with clearance. The blue clutches were a little thicker. I have the thin .060's I'm going back in. Will see how many it holds to get the right stack height.
Great video John tons of information
Thanks
🤔 so that's what them part look like in one piece great video I like the fact that you can here what your saying. ✝️🇺🇸👍 god bless and stay safe out
This is super helpful. Thank you
That's informative to know
informative video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
A little metallic.. 😳!!!
Man you just made me realize that I’ve got a new 8F35 tore apart on my bench at work 😫 it’s been apart for a least a month waiting on parts and I’ve been off work for the last 3 weeks. It’s gonna suck rebuilding that thing! 😥
oh boy.....lol
Just wondering, I had my Powerglide rebuilt. I'm now installing it back into the vehicle. I did a test installation of the torque convertor to check the fit on the input shaft. I believe I inserted the torque convertor properly, but never exactly sure. I went to pull the torque convertor off, but I noticed some resistance when pulling the torque converter off. After overcoming the resistance, the input shaft came out also. I was able to wiggle and then remove the input shaft from the torque converter . It felt as is the input shaft wedged itself into something inside the torque converter . Now the input shaft will not go back into the trans. I can insert it about 5 in, but no further. Any thoughts on this ? I wasnt' sure if I should tap it with a rubber hammer ? I feel as if the shaft is hitting a solid piece of something that is not allowing it to re-engage. Thanks
Do not tap. Sometimes the wedding band makes it difficult to go in, and sometimes the brass bushing in the planetary slides down. Look in the pump to see if you see anything misaligned
another great vid ! 🤛🤛👌
Thanks
Hey Jon. I'm running a jw glide. Turbo shaft. The 2 steel rings on the shaft is wat I'm needing. Can I buy jus those 2 rings. 749600 tci shaft. Thanks.
I'm running a stock case..cheeta valve body hard front shaft, because I twisted the stock one..mine keeps blowing front seal.i have new bushing in front.idk what to do.600 hp.s10 3rd time 150 miles on new motor
Wow, I usually find all those parts on the ground behind my car. Good timing on maintenance!
LOL
Turbo John can I remove the trans brake solenoid from the transmission and the transmission still work? It appears that my electric solenoid is leaking transmission fluid, is that possible? Thanks.
I don't think so. But don't know for sure.
@@TurboJohnRacing I removed the trans brake solenoid but couldn't find a plug for it, so I pulled a used vacuum modulator off another 2 speed I had and used it, no leak and the transmission work as designed. I run in the foot brake class but I will get another solenoid from Jegs soon. Good luck and be safe on the track.
Is there supposed to be a friction against the pressure plate in the high gear drum ?
There could be, I think he said something about previous damage and that’s why there was only 9 friction plates. Remember you can stack steels but not frictions, the pressure plate looked scored up a little, would probably slip if there was a friction there.
Yes, this is right. It had 10 frictions at some point, then I toasted it. And stacked it with 9 and a couple thicker frictions or steels to get the clearance right. @jcnpresser is absolutely correct, can stack steel to steel for shims.
Hey turbo j does the reverse piston need a hole drilled in it at 12 o’clock 1/16 drill if I have a Reid case since it all ready has a hole in the case
I bought my case used, so I did not pay attention to that. I would think aftermarket cases should not need much prep for transbrake. I would call reid and check with your valve body instructions.
Nice
You don't wear gloves doing that kinda work?
Usually only wear gloves with rear end stuff and diesel stuff....lol And I still get the smell and grease all over me....lol
@@TurboJohnRacing I knew an old mechanic who worked on transmissions he said his body was filled with heavy metals from the oils he absorbed in his hands over the years
Hey what kind of trans brake do u have
Think it was a TCI, it is a pro tree brake. You have to press the transbrake to back up.
How much hp can I get from a stock case
I made it down to 5.20's before I broke mine.
See there is a good side to corona. You would have tightened the band and kept it moving and it would have wiped out your sick power glide. I really wanna get more skilled with transmissions. I have very little experience with them. I’ve built 1000 or more engines and only 2 trans. My next learning experience is definitely gona be transmissions
Those are some easy ones to start with, has the same principle as any other trans, less parts to remember. 350th are pretty easy. That’s what I did when I was in trade school. One thing I learned after school on my th350 was check the valve body, I destroyed 2 direct drums from a sticking 2-3 valve.
What low.gear you.run
1.80
most times i have extra parts...
Nice Video I can do it .... I think
lol, just pay attention as you pull it apart
No music. 🙅🏼♂️. Every UA-camr does this. No music nesseceary it takes away from what your trying to say. Please
Everyone on you tube please stop
I try to put it low enough it's not too annoying. But I really like the vids with some back ground music.