Mitsubishi Montero Head Gasket Repair Part 5: Refurbishing the Left Cylinder Head
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- #enginecleaning #Cylinderheadcleaning #Sohc
Parts 1 through 13 of this repair series take place over a six month period and we were without the use of our vehicle for about 8 months. As I took her apart I would replace things as needed and it took a while to get all the parts and tools I needed. I entered this project as a beginner mechanic and made some mistakes but I was able to fix them and learn from them. This was a fun project and I'm so happy with the results and I'm glad I can share my experience with others. As part of this project I created a list of tools and parts that are needed or just very convenient for this type of work (see below).
Vehicle: 2001 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5L V6 6G74 SOHC
Known Issues: P0335 Crankshaft postition sensor circuit, P0300 Random multiple misfire, P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire, P0161 O2 sensor heater circuit bank 2 sensor 2, Valve cover oil leaks
Tools and Parts List
Tools
OBD-II scan tool:
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10-150 ft-lb torque wrench:
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20-200 in-lb torque wrench:
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51 piece mechanics tool set:
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Deep socket set metric:
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18" breaker bar:
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8" adjustable wrench:
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27 mm crowfoot wrench for EGR pipe nut:
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Metric crowfoot wrench set:
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Large metric wrench set:
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Socket extension, universal joint, and adapter kit:
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⅜ drive to ½ drive socket adapter:
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Drill hex drive to socket drive adapter kit:
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21 piece M42 Cobalt drill bit set:
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1 lb hammer:
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Rubber mallet:
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Needle nose pliers:
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Standard pliers:
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Timing belt tensioner pulley tensioning tool:
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Valve seal removal and installation tool kit:
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Universal camshaft and crankshaft holding tool:
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Overhead valve spring compressor tool:
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Aluminum straight edge:
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Feeler gauges:
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Stainless steel vernier calipers:
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Thread gauge:
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Spark plug gapper tool:
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Rare earth magnets:
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Wire brush automotive cleaning kit:
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Carburetor cleaner:
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WD-40:
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Brake cleaner:
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Blue painters tape:
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Damaged screw extractor kit:
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Starret ⅛" center punch:
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Metric helicoil thread repair kit:
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M8 X 1.25 Big-Sert thread repair kit:
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Metric thread tapping kit:
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Thread tap socket set:
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Heavy duty bench vise:
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3.5 ton hydraulic jack:
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3 ton jack stands:
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Locktite red and blue:
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JB weld:
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Parts
Head gasket repair kit (includes all gaskets, O-rings, and valve stem seals) for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
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Head bolts for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
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Timing belt and water pump replacement kit for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
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Valve lash adjusters/lifters for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
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Spark plug wires for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
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Spark plugs for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
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Engine air filter for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
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Optima group 35 car battery:
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5W-30 High mileage motor oil:
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Engine oil filter:
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Antifreeze phosphate free:
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WHAT A AMAZING JOB AND VIDEO!!!👏🏻👏🏻
Perfect for me
I have the same engine 6g74
Thanks
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
You are a good youtuber man. Thanks
You're welcome, and thanks! I appreciate the support!
Thanks for this man! I had my heads rebuilt at a shop a while ago and something isn't right with them and the car has just been sittings because I'm stumped.
The exhaust valves on one cylinder are not moving in sync and it's losing all compression through exhaust at tdc. The shop says the lifters need to "pump up", but it won't start.. Since the shop isn't being very helpful and I'm past the 30 day warranty I'm thinking I will take the exhaust rocker tube off and inspect the lash adjusters after watching this
You're welcome. Dang that sounds frustrating. It is possible to save some time and considerable effort by removing the rocker arm assembly without pulling the head i.e. leaving the heads on the vehicle. Just be sure to block off all of the oil passages inside the head so you don't drop anything into the engine. If your lash adjusters aren't "pumped up" you can prime them by submerging them in oil and make sure there are no air bubbles left by poking a tooth pick or something in the hole on the lash adjuster while submerged. Also check the slots on the rocker arms where the lash adjusters are installed. If there is anything in there and the lash adjuster is installed it will cause the lash adjuster to protrude and push on the valve stem which could open them slightly and cause loss of compression.
@@ColoradicalMike Yeah it's been a headache to say the least. Unfortunately the rebuilt heads are already off as I actually tried using another engine I got from the junkyard too.. The junkyard said the engine was compression tested, but it had almost no compression in one cylinder:(
I pulled the head with the cylinder with no compression yesterday and it doesn't appear to be bottom end related so I think I'll work on pulling the other head, soaking those lifters and see If I can't get it mostly together today. I'll keep u posted.
I'm in CO too, so maybe if I get her running we can go 4 wheeling sometime 😅
Looking forward to see how it goes. It would be interesting to see what you find. Good hunting and I hope you're able to get her started!
@@ColoradicalMike So I ended up priming all the lifters. They had been replaced when the heads were rebuilt, but some were soft and could be collapsed completely and some were rock hard. I used a scewer to collapse the lifters by pushing the sping in the bottom of the hole and plunged them while submerged in oil and now they are all solid. I saw a video on it..
Everything is about 90% together and I'll try starting it tomorrow so fingers crossed. I didn't compression test it yet but could feel the intake and exhaust cycles through the spark plug holes so it seems good
@@ColoradicalMike Well I got it running! One of the lifters has a bad tick tho.. I'm going to pop the valve covers off and make sure the lifters are all in the right way haha.. they kept falling out as I was trying to put everything together so I'm thinking it's possible I installed one upside-down 🥴
ua-cam.com/video/DuUO8IkxhgA/v-deo.html
Edit: They were installed correctly. I brought the lifters back to the shop and they are going to get me a new set of lifters from a different manufacturer. Defective parts is what it what the shop owner concluded.
the valve stem seals are known for leaking on these engines, that might be where some of the oil on the plugs is coming from
Yeah they were leaking so bad and for long enough that oil had dripped down the valve stem on one of the cylinder 3 exhaust valves. It burned in the exhaust port forming a thick chunk of hardened carbon deposits that had completely blocked one of the exhaust ports. It was probably causing my cylinder 3 misfire code that I was getting. So glad to have new seals in there.
Wow great video!
Thanks!
@@ColoradicalMike I'm pretty intimidated doing this job on my 2000. Some of the steps look really difficult, quote from the shop is $1700+
It was intimidating for me when I started and some parts were difficult but you can do it. Take your time, develop a plan, and attack it. Staying organized and documenting your progress are good ways to help it go smoothly and keep from forgetting anything important. I hope it goes well for you and that she purrs on startup.
@@ColoradicalMike thank you, that would be glorious and would make my year
Hey, I have a question. I have these heads out of the car and I'm trying to align the timing marks on the camshaft to match the valve covers, but the damn thing doesn't rotate much, barely. Will taking off the rocker arms make the camshaft easier to rotate manually or should I just rotate it with a power tool? Any advice on this would be appreciated.
You could use a breaker bar and turn the shaft via the nut that secures the camshaft sprocket. There will be some resistance from the valve springs (that's the resistance you are probably feeling after slight rotation). Be careful because the valve springs will want to cause a snapping motion as you turn. Keep your fingers clear of the sprocket. You could also just loosen the rocker arm assembly bolts rather than remove them but when retightening make sure that the camshaft is aligned correctly while tightening the rocker arm assembly bolts or the torque applied will be incorrect. The camshaft dowel (not the timing mark) should be pointed at approximately 289 degrees for the left bank and 300 degrees for the right bank. The above angles are measured clockwise from a vertical line drawn through the center of the camshaft perpendicular to the block mating surface of the head.
@@ColoradicalMike Cool, thanks! Yeah, I recall reading that dowel position bit in the repair manual. Much appreciated. Glad this repair worked out for you. Gives me hope.
You're welcome. We hope you have success too and that she purrs when she gets running.
Presize & helpful 4 DIY.. Thanks one thing :how many pound of torque do u set up the torque wrench at when installing the head back on
It requires a special procedure. Make sure you clean and check the head and block surfaces for flatness, then mount the head. The bolts are torqued via this procedure:
workshop-manuals.com/mitsubishi/montero_sr_4wd/v6-3.5l_dohc/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/cylinder_head_assembly/cylinder_head_bolts/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/engine_head__main_bolt_rod_nut_torque_revision/page_1843/
did you just only use soapy water and brushes to clean the outer blocks or did you use more things?
Just soapy water, rags, copper brushes, time, and effort. A good dish soap works great as a degreaser.
Hmm, you lost me at 26:16 why did you back out your torque-to-yield bolts? Aren't they compromised now?
When you torque the bolts the first time they yield which means they deform or stretch and get a little bit longer, permanently. This actually strengthens the bolt as most metals gain strength when yielded (permanently deformed) and will continue to gain strength right up until breaking point. After the first torque down the bolts are now slightly longer meaning that after the first torque down the clamping force applied between the head and block is slightly less than desired (some of that clamping force went into stretching the bolts). So you back them out and torque them again to the same torque. Because the bolts have yielded and are now stronger the second torque down no longer stretches them permanently and the bolts are now applying the correct clamping force. They say not to reuse head bolts like this because if you yield the bolts more than a couple of times you may either lengthen the bolt so it is now out of specification (too long) or push the yield point too close to the breaking point which could lead to failure of the bolts and head gasket. However, if you know the condition of your head bolts and know they have been yielded correctly you may reuse them and skip the yielding procedure (just torque them once to specification).
did you use new head bolts or the old ones ?
I used new ones.