Super vidéos. My NKS is stuck in the bush over a big river no service guy will cross... without this video she would have been lost to the jungle. Without this I don’t think I would have tried. Still trying to get king pin out but I haven’t tried saying “f@%k” yet. Will give that a crack😂
Good job on the hubs, despite the challenging working conditions. Even on light trucks the hub assemblies and everything that goes with them is bigger and heavier than light 4x4s, so it's always more work that it seems like it will be. We've got a Canter of similar vintage and everything looks pretty much exactly the same in the front end there. It's been my experience over decades of removing broken off bolts, that unless a low tensile bolt head has sheared off because it was over-torqued, stud extractors are utterly useless. If a bolt breaks off trying to undo it, forget stud extractors because the torque you can transmit through a smaller diameter stud extractor is far less than the torque that sheared off the bolt head trying to get it undone. I've had to do too many repairs after people have watched how 'easily' they work on carefully staged social media videos, only to break off a stud extractor into the already broken off seized bolt. Once that happens you might be lucky enough to break the extractor into pieces and remove it and then the bolt afterwards, otherwise a spark eroder is the only removal solution. Good call to give up on the stud extractor and weld the nuts on instead.
It was a strange one, the bolt was snapped of 1/2 way through the plate, I think someone must have tried to use an imperial bolt in there. you're right, next time I'll go straight for the welder and skip the wasted time. :)
@@youmesuzie It's a bit unfair to yourself to say it's wasted time, we all learn by doing - at least we're supposed to learn. What you did do better than most I've seen is to go to a different technique when it became obvious that continuing with the stud extractor was going to do more harm than good. Another technique I've found that works well if you get a good central pilot hole is to drill out the broken off bolt nearly through to the minor diameter of the thread, then use a straight punch with the tip sharpened to a chisel point to carefully collapse the broken bolt inwards on itself. It takes a bit of time and practice to perfect it, but it works very well.
Very impressive filming with the right amount of commentary to let us know what you are doing and what is happening. When you mentioned shims top and bottom, I asked myself, "how does he measure, where does he measure?" The answer came very shortly after, never knew that is how you measure that shimming. I was wondering about the needle you were using for the grease, neat idea. Did you drill the centre of the bolt out, then weld it via the centre?
Thanks for the kind words Allan, I really appreciate it! The little grease needle that could is an off the shelf item, you can find them at Repco for about $10. A bloke at the last mine site I was on was just handing them out, I took one not even knowing what they were for. I carried it around for a year before I had to do this job and realised its purpose.
Those I was looking for, so happy to have found NSP workings that show how things move 🥰
Mate, awesome videos. You should have 500k followers!
Thanks you for sharing your details video great watching every time here
GREAT DETAIL VIDEO
thank you super detailed video as great watching
Super vidéos. My NKS is stuck in the bush over a big river no service guy will cross... without this video she would have been lost to the jungle. Without this I don’t think I would have tried. Still trying to get king pin out but I haven’t tried saying “f@%k” yet. Will give that a crack😂
Offt sounds like a rough spot to be in, hope you got it out!
Nice
Good job on the hubs, despite the challenging working conditions. Even on light trucks the hub assemblies and everything that goes with them is bigger and heavier than light 4x4s, so it's always more work that it seems like it will be. We've got a Canter of similar vintage and everything looks pretty much exactly the same in the front end there.
It's been my experience over decades of removing broken off bolts, that unless a low tensile bolt head has sheared off because it was over-torqued, stud extractors are utterly useless. If a bolt breaks off trying to undo it, forget stud extractors because the torque you can transmit through a smaller diameter stud extractor is far less than the torque that sheared off the bolt head trying to get it undone. I've had to do too many repairs after people have watched how 'easily' they work on carefully staged social media videos, only to break off a stud extractor into the already broken off seized bolt. Once that happens you might be lucky enough to break the extractor into pieces and remove it and then the bolt afterwards, otherwise a spark eroder is the only removal solution. Good call to give up on the stud extractor and weld the nuts on instead.
It was a strange one, the bolt was snapped of 1/2 way through the plate, I think someone must have tried to use an imperial bolt in there. you're right, next time I'll go straight for the welder and skip the wasted time. :)
@@youmesuzie It's a bit unfair to yourself to say it's wasted time, we all learn by doing - at least we're supposed to learn. What you did do better than most I've seen is to go to a different technique when it became obvious that continuing with the stud extractor was going to do more harm than good. Another technique I've found that works well if you get a good central pilot hole is to drill out the broken off bolt nearly through to the minor diameter of the thread, then use a straight punch with the tip sharpened to a chisel point to carefully collapse the broken bolt inwards on itself. It takes a bit of time and practice to perfect it, but it works very well.
good stuff! I'll add that one to my list of tricks!
Very impressive filming with the right amount of commentary to let us know what you are doing and what is happening.
When you mentioned shims top and bottom, I asked myself, "how does he measure, where does he measure?" The answer came very shortly after, never knew that is how you measure that shimming.
I was wondering about the needle you were using for the grease, neat idea.
Did you drill the centre of the bolt out, then weld it via the centre?
Thanks for the kind words Allan, I really appreciate it!
The little grease needle that could is an off the shelf item, you can find them at Repco for about $10. A bloke at the last mine site I was on was just handing them out, I took one not even knowing what they were for. I carried it around for a year before I had to do this job and realised its purpose.
ASKING TO GET TO LOCK NUT ONLY ON FRONT AXE HOW HAS TO TAKE OFF GET TO NUT SO TIGHTUP?