There are two things you should keep in mind when performing this operation. First, if you see an actual crack visible crack in the brass that brass is compromised and should never be fired again. This is commonly called a 'smiley' among handloaders. A simple bulge can be sized out, but a crack is not to be ever loaded again. Secondly, when you run the case through the Makarov die, the die will size the rim down further than factory spec. It'll actually be smaller in diameter than the factory specification. This does not seem to cause a great problem in most guns, but it is something to be aware of.
Yes, I concur with you Carlson, in due time it will cause a problem for the fired ammo after it has been fired to have a failure to eject from the chamber. The extractor will not catch the the bottom properly due to its under size and so slightly worn extractor.
@@louisknight7448 I have shot many thousands of these resized 9mm without a single issue with extraction. That's not to say it couldn't happen, but in my case it has not happened. Mine are ex-SMG rounds. Some have been reloaded 5 or 6 times at least.
I picked up some 10mm brass from the range. A few had “smiles” in them like the ones in your video. They went on the trash. I use the bulge buster for cases that won’t chamber with no visual signs of flaws or defects on the casings. Anything that looks like it would case a blow out or weak point gets tossed.
I’ve seen those bulges on brass that was shot from some of the older Glocks without the fully supported chambers. I know lee make a bulge buster die but that makarov die seemed to work just as well👍🏻
The problem with dies is they don't fix bulges that arenuneven or on one side. They simply shift the case centre and that comes up as a rim bulge. The rollsizer fixes that.
@@docgunn286 fair question. The situations where the rim is actually deformed / expanded from firing are small and usually from MG firing after multiple reloads. Most problems people blame on " rim bulge" are actually from the case body being moved offset to the rim. (Feedramp blow out). The resizing dies reduce this a small degree but not entirely. And when these are fed to a tight chamber / competition gun then the offset can cause jams as it goes into battery. The "rim bulge" is blamed because it locks up on the rim.....the only way to remove this offset is to rollsize. You can prove this issue by rolling a blown fired case on a table and watch the rim edge walk up and down....
I think the most important lesson here is that the resized bulged case did not fit the 9x19mm case gauge. This is rare even with brass casings fired many times over. However when it does happen the reloaded cartridge is not safe to use, especially as they may chamber just far enough to allow detonation but without the action completely closed, as can happen in a blow-back AR 9mm carbine or pistol. The result is an "out-of-battery" detonation. I've learned to run every reloaded 9mm cartridge through a case gauge and discard those that do not fit, rather than chance it in my PCC.
Recently blew out my extractor and thought I had an overcharged round but since I discovered about 300 bulged rounds in my 1000 rounds I recently reloaded that must be the issue. PSA AR9
There are different die dimensions. Some are the original diameter completely to the end. Others have a large taper to make progressive loading easier. I have met competition shooters using 9mm brass loaded out to 38 super length and pressures. They both told me they didn't like picking up brass and bought once fired 9mm, then left the cases at the range. I picked up their cases and had no problem shooting them as regular 115 fmj 9mm. When loading, I use a carbide RCBS sizing die after washing.
That brass is trash. Someone loaded to 9mm major and that is the reason they were left at the range. One time use only. Normal 9mm loading does not bulge the brass.
Buy a roll sizer and resize all brass. It takes the bulge out. You still should use a resizing die afterwards while reloading. Sure it is expensive but well worth it because of the time saved. I roll size 9mm 40 and 45.
@@roger_revo it was for me too but so are my guns. I put money aside for awhile until I had enough to get one. One of my best investments in shooting / reloading
Lee's website says, ** Will only work with the following cases: 380 ACP, 10mm, 40 S&W, 41 AE (Use 40 S&W Factory Crimp Die), 45 ACP, 45 GAP, and 45 Win Mag.** If the caliber you are looking for is not listed above, it CAN NOT be used with the Bulge Buster. "9mm" ?????
Watch the video: 9mm Lee Bulge Buster Review Budget Reloader 9mm Makarov factory crimp die (Product #: 338208 at Midway) to resize 9mm Luger cartridge cases. DO NOT USE THE LEE 9mm LUGER FACTORY CRIMP DIE. ua-cam.com/video/uk-x9bN5Ueg/v-deo.html
Did you ever end up loading and shooting these? Or what came of them? I know with forty you want to bulge bust after you salvage them from the range. Then for whatever amount of times you fire them they should be ok. If you pistol has a good chamber on it. And you don't load flaming hot rounds.
I am told that brass gets that way from being shot in Glocks. Glocks have excessive chamber diameters. I have no idea if those are safe or not. I suppose one could load a couple and try them. I don't suppose target ammo would have a lot of pressure. If It were me, I would just order a few thousand new brass cases and toss those. That way YOU KNOW what you have.
@@roger_revo thank you and I was told to use the 9mm luger after the 9mm makarov...makarov buldge bust shell...9mm luger p UK ts taper back on and seat bullet, I think that's it
Once the cases have a pronounced "smile", the brass has already partially ruptured inside the case wall and should never be used again. Yes, you CAN make them thw correct external dimension and load them again, and they MAY fit into a proper case gauge. But you should never do this, and never actually fire them, ever.
Lets understand that every case that is fired is bulged. When we resize it and re fire it it becomes bulged again. This happens over and over until the case becomes so thin that it cracks. +90% of the time it cracks at the neck from belling the case and crimping the bullet. I shoot my brass until It fails and in my opinion a glock smile brass casing can be bulge busted and reloaded about 7 times were as I get a good10 or better reloads out of a known unbulged case. All my reloads are loaded to about 90% of max and are shot in a large variety of guns with fully supported chambers. I bulge bust every unknown casing I pick up off the range before reloading, no exceptions. I have found this initial bulge busting to virtually eliminate any feeding issues with reloaded rounds. I Mark (felt pen) every reloaded round and I NEVER rebulge bust it again. If it bulges enough after going through a resizing die to not fit in my case gage again it's trash. If you buy reprocessed range pick-up brass you have no way of knowing if it was bulged brass except it's a good bet it is leftover police or gov department brass and was shot in glock firearms. Glocks have a reputation for dependability always chambering, firing, and extracting a round, but so do military machine guns. It's not surprising that both have oversized tapered chambers. Glock manuals state NEVER shoot reloads and I would never recommend otherwise, but If someone is hell bent on shooting reloads I strongly suggest don't shoot a glock left handed without wearing good safety goggles. You can pick gun powder and brass out of your cheeks and nose but you can't out of your eyes.
I tried this I don't know what these people are talking about, if these videos are fake or I just have a bad die but it will not allow me to press a 9mm shell through a 9mm Makarov sizer. I don't know what these people are doing that's different than what I'm doing but it makes me frustrated
@@murphytoadster9864 9mm Lee Bulge Buster Review Budget Reloader 9mm Makarov factory crimp die (Product #: 338208 at Midway) to resize 9mm Luger cartridge cases. DO NOT USE THE LEE 9mm LUGER FACTORY CRIMP DIE. ua-cam.com/video/uk-x9bN5Ueg/v-deo.html Follow what is shown in this video.
Nice idea but way too slow for most competitive shooters! I bought the mid level Rollsizer from Rollsizer.com and haven’t looked back, highly recommend. Now all I have to do is check for missing or upside down primers...
No, they are not safe to fire. They were severely weakened by being fired in a Glock pistol to start with. You can see this evidence by the primer strike at the first of your video. Nothing you did made that brass any stronger. In fact, by all the stretching done in the dies it served only to weaken the brass even more. Glock pistols require New ammo to he shot in them. If not, you run the risk of the now famous KABOOM!!!
There are two things you should keep in mind when performing this operation. First, if you see an actual crack visible crack in the brass that brass is compromised and should never be fired again. This is commonly called a 'smiley' among handloaders. A simple bulge can be sized out, but a crack is not to be ever loaded again. Secondly, when you run the case through the Makarov die, the die will size the rim down further than factory spec. It'll actually be smaller in diameter than the factory specification. This does not seem to cause a great problem in most guns, but it is something to be aware of.
Thank you. I did not know about sizing the rim so small.
Yes, I concur with you Carlson, in due time it will cause a problem for the fired ammo after it has been fired to have a failure to eject from the chamber. The extractor will not catch the the bottom properly due to its under size and so slightly worn extractor.
@@louisknight7448 I have shot many thousands of these resized 9mm without a single issue with extraction. That's not to say it couldn't happen, but in my case it has not happened. Mine are ex-SMG rounds. Some have been reloaded 5 or 6 times at least.
I picked up some 10mm brass from the range. A few had “smiles” in them like the ones in your video. They went on the trash. I use the bulge buster for cases that won’t chamber with no visual signs of flaws or defects on the casings. Anything that looks like it would case a blow out or weak point gets tossed.
I’ve seen those bulges on brass that was shot from some of the older Glocks without the fully supported chambers. I know lee make a bulge buster die but that makarov die seemed to work just as well👍🏻
The problem with dies is they don't fix bulges that arenuneven or on one side. They simply shift the case centre and that comes up as a rim bulge. The rollsizer fixes that.
I have the bulge Buster Lee kit and it recommends the 9mm Makarov die. Works like. Charm.
@@rollsizer5623 I do not know that what Rollsizer says about a rim bulge is true. Perhaps I do not understand his post?
@@docgunn286 fair question. The situations where the rim is actually deformed / expanded from firing are small and usually from MG firing after multiple reloads. Most problems people blame on " rim bulge" are actually from the case body being moved offset to the rim. (Feedramp blow out). The resizing dies reduce this a small degree but not entirely. And when these are fed to a tight chamber / competition gun then the offset can cause jams as it goes into battery. The "rim bulge" is blamed because it locks up on the rim.....the only way to remove this offset is to rollsize.
You can prove this issue by rolling a blown fired case on a table and watch the rim edge walk up and down....
I think the most important lesson here is that the resized bulged case did not fit the 9x19mm case gauge. This is rare even with brass casings fired many times over. However when it does happen the reloaded cartridge is not safe to use, especially as they may chamber just far enough to allow detonation but without the action completely closed, as can happen in a blow-back AR 9mm carbine or pistol. The result is an "out-of-battery" detonation. I've learned to run every reloaded 9mm cartridge through a case gauge and discard those that do not fit, rather than chance it in my PCC.
Recently blew out my extractor and thought I had an overcharged round but since I discovered about 300 bulged rounds in my 1000 rounds I recently reloaded that must be the issue. PSA AR9
If you shoot a lot Roll Sizing is your answer. Sure it is expensive but so is your gun.
There are different die dimensions. Some are the original diameter completely to the end. Others have a large taper to make progressive loading easier.
I have met competition shooters using 9mm brass loaded out to 38 super length and pressures. They both told me they didn't like picking up brass and bought once fired 9mm, then left the cases at the range.
I picked up their cases and had no problem shooting them as regular 115 fmj 9mm. When loading, I use a carbide RCBS sizing die after washing.
Welcome to the Glock fired brass
That brass is trash. Someone loaded to 9mm major and that is the reason they were left at the range. One time use only. Normal 9mm loading does not bulge the brass.
Buy a roll sizer and resize all brass. It takes the bulge out. You still should use a resizing die afterwards while reloading. Sure it is expensive but well worth it because of the time saved. I roll size 9mm 40 and 45.
A roll sizer is too expensive for me.
@@roger_revo it was for me too but so are my guns. I put money aside for awhile until I had enough to get one. One of my best investments in shooting / reloading
yeah you should never be reloading again
verticle case split? starting on left side of case bulge on first case?
I don't see it.
very thanks !!!!
You are welcome.
Lee's website says, ** Will only work with the following cases: 380 ACP, 10mm, 40 S&W, 41 AE (Use 40 S&W Factory Crimp Die), 45 ACP, 45 GAP, and 45 Win Mag.**
If the caliber you are looking for is not listed above, it CAN NOT be used with the Bulge Buster. "9mm" ?????
Watch the video:
9mm Lee Bulge Buster Review
Budget Reloader
9mm Makarov factory crimp die (Product #: 338208 at Midway) to resize 9mm Luger cartridge cases.
DO NOT USE THE LEE 9mm LUGER FACTORY CRIMP DIE.
ua-cam.com/video/uk-x9bN5Ueg/v-deo.html
Did you ever end up loading and shooting these? Or what came of them? I know with forty you want to bulge bust after you salvage them from the range. Then for whatever amount of times you fire them they should be ok. If you pistol has a good chamber on it. And you don't load flaming hot rounds.
I did not load and shoot these cases. I scrapped them.
@@roger_revo that would have been my move too. Good call
Why does case bulge occure?
Oversize chambers as in Glocks. Also high pressure.
I am told that brass gets that way from being shot in Glocks. Glocks have excessive chamber diameters. I have no idea if those are safe or not. I suppose one could load a couple and try them. I don't suppose target ammo would have a lot of pressure. If It were me, I would just order a few thousand new brass cases and toss those. That way YOU KNOW what you have.
Arnt you aupposes to use the 9mm luger die? Not the makarov its smaller I thought
The 9mm Luger die is too small. The 9mm Mararov die works well.
@@roger_revo thank you and I was told to use the 9mm luger after the 9mm makarov...makarov buldge bust shell...9mm luger p UK ts taper back on and seat bullet, I think that's it
Once the cases have a pronounced "smile", the brass has already partially ruptured inside the case wall and should never be used again. Yes, you CAN make them thw correct external dimension and load them again, and they MAY fit into a proper case gauge. But you should never do this, and never actually fire them, ever.
I decided to scrap those cases.
Lets understand that every case that is fired is bulged. When we resize it and re fire it it becomes bulged again. This happens over and over until the case becomes so thin that it cracks. +90% of the time it cracks at the neck from belling the case and crimping the bullet. I shoot my brass until It fails and in my opinion a glock smile brass casing can be bulge busted and reloaded about 7 times were as I get a good10 or better reloads out of a known unbulged case. All my reloads are loaded to about 90% of max and are shot in a large variety of guns with fully supported chambers. I bulge bust every unknown casing I pick up off the range before reloading, no exceptions. I have found this initial bulge busting to virtually eliminate any feeding issues with reloaded rounds. I Mark (felt pen) every reloaded round and I NEVER rebulge bust it again. If it bulges enough after going through a resizing die to not fit in my case gage again it's trash.
If you buy reprocessed range pick-up brass you have no way of knowing if it was bulged brass except it's a good bet it is leftover police or gov department brass and was shot in glock firearms.
Glocks have a reputation for dependability always chambering, firing, and extracting a round, but so do military machine guns. It's not surprising that both have oversized tapered chambers. Glock manuals state NEVER shoot reloads and I would never recommend otherwise, but If someone is hell bent on shooting reloads I strongly suggest don't shoot a glock left handed without wearing good safety goggles. You can pick gun powder and brass out of your cheeks and nose but you can't out of your eyes.
I tried this I don't know what these people are talking about, if these videos are fake or I just have a bad die but it will not allow me to press a 9mm shell through a 9mm Makarov sizer. I don't know what these people are doing that's different than what I'm doing but it makes me frustrated
Try putting lube on the case. I suggest Imperial sizing die wax. Are you using a Lee factory crimp sizing die in 9mm Makarov?
@@roger_revo I tried lube and id didn't work. I am using the lee die
@@murphytoadster9864
9mm Lee Bulge Buster Review
Budget Reloader
9mm Makarov factory crimp die (Product #: 338208 at Midway) to resize 9mm Luger cartridge cases.
DO NOT USE THE LEE 9mm LUGER FACTORY CRIMP DIE.
ua-cam.com/video/uk-x9bN5Ueg/v-deo.html
Follow what is shown in this video.
Nice idea but way too slow for most competitive shooters! I bought the mid level Rollsizer from Rollsizer.com and haven’t looked back, highly recommend.
Now all I have to do is check for missing or upside down primers...
Jim, good to hear, once you seen them it becomes a "why didnt info this earlier" conversation...
Its 590$ for the base version without dies =(
@@fajile5109, it’s painful at first, no denying that, but not having to worry about a jam from Glock Bulge during competition is worth it!
@@sf7708 its also sold out 😭😭😭😭
@@fajile5109, Ouch! But then so is a lot of reloading supplies, bullets, powder, primers...👿
No, they are not safe to fire. They were severely weakened by being fired in a Glock pistol to start with. You can see this evidence by the primer strike at the first of your video. Nothing you did made that brass any stronger. In fact, by all the stretching done in the dies it served only to weaken the brass even more. Glock pistols require New ammo to he shot in them. If not, you run the risk of the now famous KABOOM!!!