Thank you for the test. As a real estate videographer, dynamic range is pretty much EVERYTHING for me. Home owners pay a lot for great views, and showing both the bright exterior while balancing darker interiors is key.
Great video; very methodical but succinct. Some interesting things I've encountered with the GH6: color is quite different when recording in ProRes vs. other modes like All-Intra. If I know I'll be shooting some high frame rate stuff on a given scene or project, I won't shoot ProRes for the regular shots in order to make it much easier to match. Also, outputting RAW to an Atomos was different in Dynamic Range Boost mode vs. non-DRB mode. The DRB stuff would record to the Atomos the same regardless of ISO, in the sense that when adjusting the ISO in post to match, shots output in ISO 2000 were pretty much identical to shots output in ISO 10000 etc. This was not the case for non-DRB mode.
Thanks for the test! Good enough info for doing studio/vlogs where you have controlled lighting but not enough info for on-location shooting. For your underexposure test you used Flat with DRB on but why didnt you use V-LOG? You should also include other exif data like F stop and shutter speeds. You were showing that LED light that has rolling effect that can be removed by turning Synchro Sync on.
So what are pracitcal recommendations here? I see that above ISO 2000 it is worth to activate dynamic range boost. Also, VLOG performs much better than other color profiles. Am i right with these conclusions?
Thank you for the tutorials. I have 2 questions regarding aperture and shutter priority modes specifically: Why am I not able to see shutter speed values(see SS numbers change on the screen) while in Aperture priority mode? I do understand this mode controls Aperture but on other cameras while in Aperture, you can still see when and what shutter speed changes to when for example you over expose or decrease ISO. On gh6 there's is no SS reading even though I know it's changing internally. Is there a way to have it displayed on my screen while in Aperture priority? That way I know what SS the camera chooses when I adjust ISO or aperture? Question no.2: Can you still focus manually while in either shutter speed or Aperture priority? Does focusing manual when in one of the two modes have any effect to how light works or its absolutely okay? Thank you so much.
Why do channels say ask your question and people take the time to ask a question and then ignore them. Boo. I enjoyed and learn from some of your video but on that alone I won't subscribe.
A few advantages of crop sensors I can think off: Smaller body and lens combined. Yes a few full frame cameras and crop sensor cameras are that far off in size now, but when you add a lens you'll notice the difference. The lenses on crop sensors are usually smaller and lighter than on full frame, which is a plus for carrying them around. You also don't have to have big lenses on crop sensor to get longer reach, which is great as on full frame, long telephoto lenses are big and often expensive. On Micro 4/3 there is the 100-400mm Leica lens and there is no 200-800mm full frame equivalent without having more than one lens and any that do reach 800mm are usually quite expensive. I had both a Signa 105mm EX DG macro and an Olympus 60mm f/2.8 macro when I used both Canon cameras and a Panasonic GH5 and the Olympus 60mm is much smaller and lighter and had slightly longer reach which is great for shooting flying insects. Plus adapting the Sigma to the GH5 with an adaptor, I got a 200mm equivalent macro lens when not using a Speedbooster. The extra DOF on crop can also be useful, especially for landscapes and for macro where you often need a deep DOF. You can also mount a wider range of lenses on crop sensor with adaptors, which again is very useful if the image quality is good enough for your needs with the adapted lens. On Micro 4/3 you can adapt hundreds of lenses with adaptors and Speedboosters. Crop sensors can have faster readout times so unless the camera has a global shutter, they would be less prone to issues like rolling shutter. Due to the sensor size, they can be kept cooler easier so they would be less prone to overheating. At least with my GH6, I have used it in hot weather for up to 5+ hours at a time and it has never overheated, but it has a built in fan and it helps. Saying that my GH5 has gotten quite warm before and been in direct warm sunlight and never once overheated either and it doesn't have a fan.
Thank you for the test. As a real estate videographer, dynamic range is pretty much EVERYTHING for me. Home owners pay a lot for great views, and showing both the bright exterior while balancing darker interiors is key.
Great video; very methodical but succinct. Some interesting things I've encountered with the GH6: color is quite different when recording in ProRes vs. other modes like All-Intra. If I know I'll be shooting some high frame rate stuff on a given scene or project, I won't shoot ProRes for the regular shots in order to make it much easier to match. Also, outputting RAW to an Atomos was different in Dynamic Range Boost mode vs. non-DRB mode. The DRB stuff would record to the Atomos the same regardless of ISO, in the sense that when adjusting the ISO in post to match, shots output in ISO 2000 were pretty much identical to shots output in ISO 10000 etc. This was not the case for non-DRB mode.
great test!
Nice job!
Thanks for the test! Good enough info for doing studio/vlogs where you have controlled lighting but not enough info for on-location shooting. For your underexposure test you used Flat with DRB on but why didnt you use V-LOG? You should also include other exif data like F stop and shutter speeds. You were showing that LED light that has rolling effect that can be removed by turning Synchro Sync on.
So what are pracitcal recommendations here? I see that above ISO 2000 it is worth to activate dynamic range boost. Also, VLOG performs much better than other color profiles. Am i right with these conclusions?
Great
Thank you for the tutorials. I have 2 questions regarding aperture and shutter priority modes specifically:
Why am I not able to see shutter speed values(see SS numbers change on the screen) while in Aperture priority mode? I do understand this mode controls Aperture but on other cameras while in Aperture, you can still see when and what shutter speed changes to when for example you over expose or decrease ISO. On gh6 there's is no SS reading even though I know it's changing internally. Is there a way to have it displayed on my screen while in Aperture priority? That way I know what SS the camera chooses when I adjust ISO or aperture?
Question no.2:
Can you still focus manually while in either shutter speed or Aperture priority? Does focusing manual when in one of the two modes have any effect to how light works or its absolutely okay?
Thank you so much.
I would recommend keeping DRB On from ISO 2000 and above since the results are much cleaner.
I agree about ISO range though. V-Log is fantastic in low light on this camera, not too far off the S series surprisingly.
Why do channels say ask your question and people take the time to ask a question and then ignore them. Boo. I enjoyed and learn from some of your video but on that alone I won't subscribe.
Crop sensor camera makes no sense to me
Why you say that?
A few advantages of crop sensors I can think off: Smaller body and lens combined. Yes a few full frame cameras and crop sensor cameras are that far off in size now, but when you add a lens you'll notice the difference. The lenses on crop sensors are usually smaller and lighter than on full frame, which is a plus for carrying them around.
You also don't have to have big lenses on crop sensor to get longer reach, which is great as on full frame, long telephoto lenses are big and often expensive. On Micro 4/3 there is the 100-400mm Leica lens and there is no 200-800mm full frame equivalent without having more than one lens and any that do reach 800mm are usually quite expensive. I had both a Signa 105mm EX DG macro and an Olympus 60mm f/2.8 macro when I used both Canon cameras and a Panasonic GH5 and the Olympus 60mm is much smaller and lighter and had slightly longer reach which is great for shooting flying insects. Plus adapting the Sigma to the GH5 with an adaptor, I got a 200mm equivalent macro lens when not using a Speedbooster.
The extra DOF on crop can also be useful, especially for landscapes and for macro where you often need a deep DOF. You can also mount a wider range of lenses on crop sensor with adaptors, which again is very useful if the image quality is good enough for your needs with the adapted lens. On Micro 4/3 you can adapt hundreds of lenses with adaptors and Speedboosters.
Crop sensors can have faster readout times so unless the camera has a global shutter, they would be less prone to issues like rolling shutter. Due to the sensor size, they can be kept cooler easier so they would be less prone to overheating. At least with my GH6, I have used it in hot weather for up to 5+ hours at a time and it has never overheated, but it has a built in fan and it helps. Saying that my GH5 has gotten quite warm before and been in direct warm sunlight and never once overheated either and it doesn't have a fan.
@@Dezdirectz the depth of field, additional ad ons, video quality, the lenses etc. makes the process tedious for the limited end result
@@swaygfx lol you dont have any clue about it. Crop sensor cameras give GREAT results. In fact most cinema cameras ARE crop sensor cams.
@@andersistbesser I never said the results couldn't be "great" I've only implied, its not worth it