Thanks so much! Really appreciated that you use general, affordable products that can be bought in bulk and that work effectively! My first time using 0000 steel wool on the fretboard itself (not only the frets) and boiled linseed oil to hydrate. It totally makes sense, as this is what's is commonly used in furniture making and in oiling wooden tool handles - so why not guitars? It's just timber after all. Thanks again!
"I'm going to come up to the headstock and loosen the strings slowly"..... proceeds to put power tool to the machine heads at 600rpms. Sorry, just having fun at your expense. I liked the video.
AFTER the tape was applied I'd wipe down the guitar, to remove any tape glue residue. Someone mentioned using only drafting tape instead of masking tape. This blue tape-from 3M, I believe-comes off very easily. I used it quite a bit when painting homes. It's not very sticky. But it still has glue on it. I'd also use a vacuum instead of a brush to remove those bits of metal after using XXXX steel wool, unless you have a shop like he has.
Thanks for taking the time to make such a nice and detailed video. Man, where was the internet 20 years ago! I would have had to ask some smirky kid in a GC to learn this. ;)
It's slow compared to snipping the strings with diagonal snips, which I have seen videos of (eek!). The sudden change in tension shocks the neck and other components.
Or try my technique for cleaning. Grab a shop towel and make a couple swipes down the neck and around the sound hole, making sure not to worry about dust getting into the sound hole because dust already has and always will enter the sound hole. Job complete.
Great video.. One question. Do you use boiled linseed oil so the oil remains topical? I understand raw linseed oil penetrates through the wood. Other applications, levels and tool handles, they benefit from that, maintaining flexibility so as to avoid cracking, splitting etc.
I was just wondering if you have used boiled linseed oil from "Klean Strip" ? I'm not experienced at this and wanted to know if you can trust this brand? It doesn't say for guitar specifically so I was in a dilemma.
Someone below mentioned "losers doing guitar maintenance with no credentials" - I dunno who this fellow is in the video, but I've been changing strings on guitars longer than he's been alive and MUCH longer than Taylor has been around. Many years ago I was taught ONE way to put new strings on, and I've been doing it the same way ever since, and there are MANY videos that show the way I do it. There are several things that Taylor does that I would NEVER do - including using the wire cutters to pull out the pins, and their system of wrapping the strings around the tuning pegs - NO! Also, I've watched several of the Taylor videos on this subject, and they always just throw the old strings away - they SHOULD be recycled appropriately. Get with the game people!
@ady0211 Ive run out of proper string cleaner and have resorted to mr sheen or wood polish! Mr sheen isnt so great but the wood polish is not too bad! smells good too!
Wax=dirt collector, sound killer. Martin recommends a damp wet cloth and no soap, or anything. I guess a Taylor it doesn't matter. Taylor has more metal ,nuts and bolts in them as a truck or car.
Hey Rob, here's a link to care & maintenance directly from Taylor Guitars website - www.taylorguitars.com/support/maintenance/properly-cleaning-your-guitar
Wouldn't putting the masking tape over the sound hole damage the finish on the top of the guitar? Great video! I always used to tie my strings at the head...
How does Taylor fix up their matte/satin/varnish guitars? I assume you don't use the same polish. And what about the back of the neck? It looks like that back of the neck of the guitar in this video is matte but you do polish it here. So... does that mean you do use polish on matte guitars? what do you do differently?
Hi, I've heard that it's not a good thing to take all the strings off at once. I've heard that the neck can bend because it's not under tension from the strings. Is this true?
Hello... I get my strings rusted very fast.. could you help me with cleaning of strings without removing them from guitar and how do we keep them rust free???
hello there very nice technique indeed thankyou for showing us this info is golden just a question about that black n decker cordless driver your using is that a 3.6 v power driver and did you just adapt the string winder head to your one or can you buy the attachment somewhere as im looking for the same thing your using cheers and thanks again
So.. I guess it's not a huge thing, but on this video you apply the wax BEFORE using the steel wool. On the TaylorGuitar cleaning and restringing you waxed the guitar after doing that... (and yes, I'm sure you're the same tech guy) Which one do you really recommend?
I have a small music store and a luthier shop. I installed a set of Elixir stings on a D 16 martin several years ago, when the client tried them in my shop he said, "the year old Martin strings sounded better sounded better." I held the elixir strings at the sound hole so they would not hit the guitar, cut them off and replaced them at no charge with Martin Marques. I disposed of the several sets of Elixir strings I had in stock , now I only carry Martin, D'Addario, GHS, Thomastik and Super Sensitive Strings. Why would anyone use steel wool on frets in the wrong direction?
What you cherish gives back more beautiful energy. Wood still has the energy of the trees. It's a way to enrich the instrument with loving and grateful energy.
I love watching professionals do stuff right. There's a lot of losers posting diy videos with no credentials. Listening to them will mess you up big time. Keep it professional.
"what am gonna do is am gonna come up to the head stock!".......makes me think for a sec that there is another hidden place which i can remove the strings from :D
tat can happeen olny iy you remeove, let's say the first three strings, and leave it like that for a long time 1-2 years. Unless you do that it will be ok to remove them and clean the guitar
i have a cort grand earth i know its still wood but do i still use boiled linseed oil or just linseed oil and what is the difference and will it wreck my fretboard
Boiled linseed oil is the way to go. It dries out much faster than raw linseed oil, so it doesn't have as much of a chance to sink in and dissolve the glue holding the fingerboard to the neck.
How good is the camera work in this video!! You never notice it but you always see pertinent areas quickly and clearly. Well done to however filmed this.
As a physician, surgeon and luthier, I can tell you what to put on your guitar and what not to put on your guitar. When I finish working on a guitar for someone, one of the services I provide is to detail the body and fretboard. This is most easily accomplished with the strings off and with the following (to clean and refurbish the fretboard. I use something totally different for the finish of the guitar): 1. 0000 steel wool 2. Murphy's Wood Oil Soap 3. An old cotton towel 4. Pure Almond Oil 5. A clean cotton towel With warm water and the Murphy's Wood Oil Soap, you lightly scrub (with the grain) with the steel wool. You can use brass, as it is softer, but finding it in a 0000 gauge is nearly impossible. Doing this with the old towel underneath the neck will catch the drips. Doing about 5 frets at a time and then wiping off the crud with the old cotton towel, you work your way up the neck. You'll find that rinsing the steel wool often (several times a fret) will help extricate the dirt and oils from your fingers and really clean it off the wood. Once the entire neck is done, a finish by carefully taking the steel wool across the fret wires to polish them as well. If you've done a good job of getting the crud off the fretboard, it should look uniform and dull, without dark areas or light areas. If this isn't the case, throw out the Murphy's Wood Oil mixture, mix up a new batch and do the fretboard again. You'll be amazed and disgusted as how dark the water is as you pour it down the drain. Now, the good part. Take the clean cotton towel (or wash cloth) and put some Almond Oil on it. A little goes a long way. Go fret by fret, rubbing it in with the grain of the wood. By the time you get to the top of the neck, you'll have enough of it soak in that it is time to wipe off the excess. The neck will look as though it was new (maybe better). As Almond Oil is pure and a natural byproduct of processing almonds, it has no additives, no preservatives and is completely natural (unlike Lemon Oil, or Scott's Liquid Gold or other things which are petroleum based and will raise the grain of the wood and does more harm than good). Restring the guitar and you're ready to go. I'm a firm believer that absolutely nothing other than Almond Oil should be applied to the bare wood (fretboard and saddle) of a guitar or any fine wood.
Thanks for the information. Like everything these days, guitar world too is so full of weird myths that it is unreal. There are a lot of guitarists (with no knowledge of carpentry what so ever) who'd say: "No, you can't use boiled linseed oil or any other natural oil on fretboard! Only lemon oil works!". Yet many of the most highly regarded violins of today were made long before this mineral oil based "lemon oil" was ever invented.
Doc, I'm with you on the Murphy's oil soap and most of the other tips you give. I have a question though, My shoulder hurts when I raise my arm over my head and I go like this.... (sorry, I couldn't resist)
Using a set of diagonal cutters as a tool for grasping the bridge pins is risky with bone pins. They can easily scratch or crack the brittle bone. There are cheap (under $5) plastic pin pullers that are a lot safer to use. Or you can use some cloth around the jaws of the diagonal cutter to protect the pin from the sharp edges.
What is the exact make & Model of your String Winder please? I'd love to purchase one ( same as yours ). Seems like it works great. I just bought a New 414ce-R Taylor, and I've been watching all of your Tips and Maintenance videos. Great information.
@@ElixirStringsMedia Oh Thanks. I'd appreciate that . . . if you can? (nothing critical though) Please don't go to any trouble. I have the Music Nomad Grip Winder (which I love) but yours would be a little faster. Stay Safe brother.
Althought there is a lot of good info in this video, I would NEVER use steel wool or pullers. Leaves particles in the FB, gets in your pores, gets inhaled. White or gold scotchbrite pads avoid all this AND you don't have to tape over your newly polished guitar. Using pliers (which is what those 'pullers' are, really) to remove bridge pins is a disaster - scratches the pins, scratches the bridge. Far too aggressive. If you need to use pullers, either your pegs are too tight or your ball ends (sorry I can't think of another way to say this) are pulling up into the bridgeplate (bad) or just jammed tightly against it (OK). Once you've got all the strings off, just push each string down a quarter inch into the bridge and your pegs should be immediately loose enough to remove with light finger pressure.
Air compressor in the garage. Blow across the top of the sound hole, not directly into. It will make a howling sound and the dust will come flying out. A can o’ air works too. i wouldn’t use a damp cloth.
I never use anything other than Murphy's oil soap, diluted 3 to 1 with distilled water to clean and polish my guitars, even on the fret boards, plus a little Cape Cod metal polish for frets themselves. It's been working for 40 years and never fails to keep them clean and looking great.
@@charlie-obrien I only use turtle wax in the solid body electric. It doesn't show fingerprints easily. I managed, and "service managed" a music ship for 33 years (starting in 1974). Everyone waiting for their meatball sub in the shop next door, covered with drywall, would come in all day wanting to play our electric guitars . They had absolutely no intention of buying. The turtle wax worked well for solid body electrics to keep the finger prints down. Just to show you how bad it was in that shop.....the same man would come in on Saturdays for 20+ years and play "a scale" on a classical guitar and then just leave.
... I was expecting the steel wool fragments to be picked up with a magnet... magnetizing a screwdriver works well... thanks for sharing your expertise .... :)
I never use anything other than Murphy's oil soap, diluted 3 to 1 with distilled water to clean and polish my guitars, even on the fret boards, plus a little Cape Cod metal polish for frets themselves. It's been working for 40 years and never fails to keep them clean and looking great.
Steel wool longitudinally does not clean next to frets. Oil with toothbrush cross wide does. I use teak oil. You can use boiled linseed. You can also use body lotion. Just wipe off excess.
R.Lee I like,LIQUID GOLD wood cleaner and preservation oil...with small piece of T-shirt cloth and work it into fretboard and bridge sparingly!.. Not expensive. Boiled linseed oil can get a crackly film when dry. It's a paint additive. Also very lightly clean the " gunk" build up on each side of fret use a sewing needle .I use an old air brush needle it's long and less likely to " dig in " do it very very LIGHTLY at an angle. .Also 3M makes a auto body " scratch" pad but get the GREY colored one...NOT THE RED. Use common sense light pressure. Its mainly used in prep work before clear coat on 2-3 stage paint jobs. Don't let the words SCUFF OR SCRATCH scare you..approach with a very light touch..u can cut a small square with scissors. Its the artisans version of a pot scrubber .but extremely fine..plus no steel wool floating around. Ciao Paolo
My question is show boat- What about perpendicular cleaning along the fret stays!!!! GUNK builds up in those areas... A fine pic does the job to scrape away all the debris...etc. I AM NOW QUESTIONING YOUR COMPETANCE!!! SORRY!!
@@ElixirStringsMedia Thanks, found that section on the Taylor website and for satin guitars they say, "These areas can be wiped down with a slightly damp cloth for cleaning. Avoid any wax or thicker polishes on satin finished areas as they will leave the finish looking splotchy. Our Taylor polish mentioned above is safe to use on satin finishes."
Everybody's a critic. But don't you put the pins back in the SAME holes? I tried out a brand new 900 series Taylor today c/w armrest. The tag said 6500 Canadian dollars and buddy YOU would NOT be touching it!
Funny. That's exactly the side cutters I use on my identical Taylor. I put a bit of tape on the back side of the cutters. I suppose the debate on neck waxing will go on and on, but I find that it works beautifully on my Taylor, but not on my unfinished Hamer maple neck. The Hamer likes the 4000 steel wool, but that's it.
You know I use Elixir strings and I believe they are the best but I guess we all do things differently when it comes to changing strings. Don't you put the same pens back into the same holes at Taylor's? Every string has a different size at every slot gets used to the same size string so if you're using $40 pins so why wouldn't you put them back into the same holes so the string size you use wouldn't wear them out? just asking you a question. Not trying to be a smart-ass but just asking a simple question
I never use anything other than Murphy's oil soap, diluted 3 to 1 with distilled water to clean and polish my guitars, even on the fret boards, plus a little Cape Cod metal polish for frets themselves. It's been working for 40 years and never fails to keep them clean and looking great.
Shouldn't you save the polish for last. Also bone pins are fragile, push them from inside out so they are not scared by the wire cutters you used. I have set up and cleaned 1000's of guitars,basses, violins, cellos in my 40 years and would never treat an instrument like this. No disrespect intended.
If you have a nitro finish please don't use blue painters tape in the way this guy does. You'd be safer laying a cloth or a towel over the soundhole. I'm assuming Taylors have some sort of UV cure poly lacquer which the tape won't rip off.
I prefer unloosing and removing the strings one at a time, that way all the tension doesn't go away so quick (which isn't good for the neck and the top).
I agree, all these years later, about ignoring the armchair experts advice and listen to the man Whom works at 1 of the top guitar manufacturers in the world. But I also agree that even he had to of had a chuckle to himself as he said the words “remove the strings slowly” whilst using the electric winder
steel wool? over the neck so it rubs on the fretboard? Will it not leave scratches? I thought you were supposed to tape the fretboard between frets to protect the fingerboard? Am missing something?
Thanks so much! This is very practical, easy to follow instructions. And if routinely followed, it will keep your guitar looking great. But so many people wait until they've got layers of crud on the fretboard, as well as on the various crevices of the guitar. So easy to MAINTAIN a guitar's finish, as opposed to trying to have to radically clean it after long periods of buildup, and what the oils in your hands and string corrosion particles do to it.
Thanks for sharing. With your suggestions, I believe even an old guitar would appreciate the attention! Thank you.
Thanks so much! Really appreciated that you use general, affordable products that can be bought in bulk and that work effectively!
My first time using 0000 steel wool on the fretboard itself (not only the frets) and boiled linseed oil to hydrate. It totally makes sense, as this is what's is commonly used in furniture making and in oiling wooden tool handles - so why not guitars? It's just timber after all.
Thanks again!
"I'm going to come up to the headstock and loosen the strings slowly"..... proceeds to put power tool to the machine heads at 600rpms. Sorry, just having fun at your expense. I liked the video.
Fantastic video - all simple but essential to keeping your guitar playing and looking great.
We're glad that you found it useful!
AFTER the tape was applied I'd wipe down the guitar, to remove any tape glue residue.
Someone mentioned using only drafting tape instead of masking tape. This blue tape-from 3M, I believe-comes off very easily. I used it quite a bit when painting homes. It's not very sticky. But it still has glue on it.
I'd also use a vacuum instead of a brush to remove those bits of metal after using XXXX steel wool, unless you have a shop like he has.
first we're gonna remove the strings slowly with this high speed electric tuner unwinder.
That is funny
Also he did not alternate sides, guys a rookie.
I was just thinking the same thing hahaha
Yeah it’s hilarious
😂
Thank you. A better explanation than Martin on the Martin technique. It is better because of the visuals you had.
Thanks for taking the time to make such a nice and detailed video. Man, where was the internet 20 years ago! I would have had to ask some smirky kid in a GC to learn this. ;)
@ElixirStringsMedia thank you for the tips and everything!!
the new string sound lasts reaaaaaly long. these strings are awesome
Wow! Great tips!
Hello, very good information. I have a question, how do you clean the body of a matte taylor guitar?
Many thanks!
Hi Jorge, Rob is unable to respond to your question. We suggest that you contact Taylor directly for details on cleaning your guitar.
wow...this video is so nicely done!
I want this guy taking care of my guitar! Pro job.
"Im Going to loosen them slowly" BAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHA
It's slow compared to snipping the strings with diagonal snips, which I have seen videos of (eek!). The sudden change in tension shocks the neck and other components.
Or try my technique for cleaning. Grab a shop towel and make a couple swipes down the neck and around the sound hole, making sure not to worry about dust getting into the sound hole because dust already has and always will enter the sound hole. Job complete.
Great vid thanks!.. I followed and did all this yesterday, and playing nice.
I found linseed oil left a sheen gloss on the Pau Ferro fretboard, should I sand it down?
Great video.. One question. Do you use boiled linseed oil so the oil remains topical? I understand raw linseed oil penetrates through the wood. Other applications, levels and tool handles, they benefit from that, maintaining flexibility so as to avoid cracking, splitting etc.
I was just wondering if you have used boiled linseed oil from "Klean Strip" ? I'm not experienced at this and wanted to know if you can trust this brand? It doesn't say for guitar specifically so I was in a dilemma.
@@robinghimire826 I haven't any applications relative to guitars, only tools . Subsequently I only use raw. I'd defer to a higher source
you guys are just awesome
Someone below mentioned "losers doing guitar maintenance with no credentials" - I dunno who this fellow is in the video, but I've been changing strings on guitars longer than he's been alive and MUCH longer than Taylor has been around. Many years ago I was taught ONE way to put new strings on, and I've been doing it the same way ever since, and there are MANY videos that show the way I do it. There are several things that Taylor does that I would NEVER do - including using the wire cutters to pull out the pins, and their system of wrapping the strings around the tuning pegs - NO! Also, I've watched several of the Taylor videos on this subject, and they always just throw the old strings away - they SHOULD be recycled appropriately. Get with the game people!
It must be difficult to shake your fist in the air and type at the same time....
Quick, look at that cloud giving you shade.....Lol
He probably should have mentioned that you have to use low-tack masking tape on the soundhole, instead of just saying masking tape.
I was waiting for some rosette to rip
What brand of tuning peg winder are you using?
best asmr video ever, thx elixir
Is the express shine turtle wax safe foe satin finish Taylor guitars?
Great advice when changing the strings.
@ady0211 Ive run out of proper string cleaner and have resorted to mr sheen or wood polish! Mr sheen isnt so great but the wood polish is not too bad! smells good too!
Wax=dirt collector, sound killer. Martin recommends a damp wet cloth and no soap, or anything. I guess a Taylor it doesn't matter. Taylor has more metal ,nuts and bolts in them as a truck or car.
My new Builder's Edition 614CE has a satin finish, would I still use the kind of car wax you did?
Where did you find the steel sheep, rusting in a paddock.
I gave my grandma 2500 pounds of steel wool and she knitted a Volkswagen :)
Good video I agree
What would I use in place of the Turtle-wax for my GSmini?
It’s the Rosewood body, Sitka top, all satin finished.
Same fretboard oil throughout?
Hey Rob, here's a link to care & maintenance directly from Taylor Guitars website - www.taylorguitars.com/support/maintenance/properly-cleaning-your-guitar
Wouldn't putting the masking tape over the sound hole damage the finish on the top of the guitar? Great video! I always used to tie my strings at the head...
Can I also use fretboard cleaner on the back of the neck ?
Thanks
How does Taylor fix up their matte/satin/varnish guitars? I assume you don't use the same polish. And what about the back of the neck? It looks like that back of the neck of the guitar in this video is matte but you do polish it here. So... does that mean you do use polish on matte guitars? what do you do differently?
Hi Bobby, here's a link to Taylor's recommended care - www.taylorguitars.com/support/maintenance/properly-cleaning-your-guitar
Hi, I've heard that it's not a good thing to take all the strings off at once. I've heard that the neck can bend because it's not under tension from the strings. Is this true?
my taylor 110 acoustic does not have the glossy finish that is on the guitar you are cleaning. can i apply these same tips?
How about satin finish which is best cleaning liquid??
Can you take all the strings off at once if you have an under saddle pickup?
i wonder what kind of screwdriver used in this video is? can anyone indicate the exact model of this screwdriver? thank so much
THANK YOU!
Hello... I get my strings rusted very fast.. could you help me with cleaning of strings without removing them from guitar and how do we keep them rust free???
Never use masking tape on any guitar. Always use Drafting Tape. Drafting tape is not very strong so you don't pull finish off of the guitar.
Painters tape, don't pull the finish, it does not get stuck as normal making tape
I recently heard you can use almond oil to clean/condition the fretboard. Can a pro confirm or deny?
What kind of brush does he use on the guitar?
my guitar's fret board is made of the polish wodd tht is seen on the body of the guitar so should i wax it or just do what you did ?
hello there very nice technique indeed thankyou for showing us this info is golden just a question about that black n decker cordless driver your using is that a 3.6 v power driver and did you just adapt the string winder head to your one or can you buy the attachment somewhere as im looking for the same thing your using cheers and thanks again
where can i get the material's i need to clean the guitar
i paint and i have the linseed oil people use for oil painting will that work?
I tried your stringing method it sucks loses tune now I lock my strings they stay in tune.
My brother Jim uses these strings
So.. I guess it's not a huge thing, but on this video you apply the wax BEFORE using the steel wool. On the TaylorGuitar cleaning and restringing you waxed the guitar after doing that... (and yes, I'm sure you're the same tech guy) Which one do you really recommend?
Colin Butters Absolutely.
Linseed Oil... isn't it toxic?
What happened to the Poly strings?? All i can find is nano & i like them much less.
I have a small music store and a luthier shop. I installed a set of Elixir stings on a D 16 martin several years ago, when the client tried them in my shop he said, "the year old Martin strings sounded better sounded better." I held the elixir strings at the sound hole so they would not hit the guitar, cut them off and replaced them at no charge with Martin Marques. I disposed of the several sets of Elixir strings I had in stock , now I only carry Martin, D'Addario, GHS, Thomastik and Super Sensitive Strings. Why would anyone use steel wool on frets in the wrong direction?
I would prefer a nasty dirty guitar not a new one for a cleaning tutorial
What you cherish gives back more beautiful energy. Wood still has the energy of the trees. It's a way to enrich the instrument with loving and grateful energy.
What are you talking about? He meant they should've used a dirty guitar for the Demo instead of a new clean one.
@@armanzakwan1898 thanks for that comment. i mean it was years ago and i dont even know the context of all of this
Can I cut my strings with scissors?
"no this is not furniture...its your guitar." haha
Is that Molly Tuttle in the background working for a living?
I love watching professionals do stuff right. There's a lot of losers posting diy videos with no credentials. Listening to them will mess you up big time. Keep it professional.
Like who?
"what am gonna do is am gonna come up to the head stock!".......makes me think for a sec that there is another hidden place which i can remove the strings from :D
nothing about bridge. Wax or linseed?
is there any special type of tape that I should use to cover the guitar hole?
Use the blue painters masking tape. Peels off real easy.
Anti-magnetic.
tat can happeen olny iy you remeove, let's say the first three strings, and leave it like that for a long time 1-2 years. Unless you do that it will be ok to remove them and clean the guitar
i have a cort grand earth i know its still wood but do i still use boiled linseed oil or just linseed oil and what is the difference and will it wreck my fretboard
Boiled linseed oil is the way to go. It dries out much faster than raw
linseed oil, so it doesn't have as much of a chance to sink in and dissolve the glue holding the fingerboard to the neck.
How good is the camera work in this video!! You never notice it but you always see pertinent areas quickly and clearly. Well done to however filmed this.
I'm gonna loosen these slowly... REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE.
🤣
As a physician, surgeon and luthier, I can tell you what to put on your guitar and what not to put on your guitar. When I finish working on a guitar for someone, one of the services I provide is to detail the body and fretboard. This is most easily accomplished with the strings off and with the following (to clean and refurbish the fretboard. I use something totally different for the finish of the guitar):
1. 0000 steel wool
2. Murphy's Wood Oil Soap
3. An old cotton towel
4. Pure Almond Oil
5. A clean cotton towel
With warm water and the Murphy's Wood Oil Soap, you lightly scrub (with the grain) with the steel wool. You can use brass, as it is softer, but finding it in a 0000 gauge is nearly impossible. Doing this with the old towel underneath the neck will catch the drips. Doing about 5 frets at a time and then wiping off the crud with the old cotton towel, you work your way up the neck. You'll find that rinsing the steel wool often (several times a fret) will help extricate the dirt and oils from your fingers and really clean it off the wood. Once the entire neck is done, a finish by carefully taking the steel wool across the fret wires to polish them as well. If you've done a good job of getting the crud off the fretboard, it should look uniform and dull, without dark areas or light areas. If this isn't the case, throw out the Murphy's Wood Oil mixture, mix up a new batch and do the fretboard again. You'll be amazed and disgusted as how dark the water is as you pour it down the drain.
Now, the good part. Take the clean cotton towel (or wash cloth) and put some Almond Oil on it. A little goes a long way. Go fret by fret, rubbing it in with the grain of the wood. By the time you get to the top of the neck, you'll have enough of it soak in that it is time to wipe off the excess. The neck will look as though it was new (maybe better). As Almond Oil is pure and a natural byproduct of processing almonds, it has no additives, no preservatives and is completely natural (unlike Lemon Oil, or Scott's Liquid Gold or other things which are petroleum based and will raise the grain of the wood and does more harm than good). Restring the guitar and you're ready to go. I'm a firm believer that absolutely nothing other than Almond Oil should be applied to the bare wood (fretboard and saddle) of a guitar or any fine wood.
Thanks for the information. Like everything these days, guitar world too is so full of weird myths that it is unreal. There are a lot of guitarists (with no knowledge of carpentry what so ever) who'd say: "No, you can't use boiled linseed oil or any other natural oil on fretboard! Only lemon oil works!". Yet many of the most highly regarded violins of today were made long before this mineral oil based "lemon oil" was ever invented.
Doc, I'm with you on the Murphy's oil soap and most of the other tips you give.
I have a question though, My shoulder hurts when I raise my arm over my head and I go like this....
(sorry, I couldn't resist)
Using a set of diagonal cutters as a tool for grasping the bridge pins is risky with bone pins. They can easily scratch or crack the brittle bone. There are cheap (under $5) plastic pin pullers that are a lot safer to use. Or you can use some cloth around the jaws of the diagonal cutter to protect the pin from the sharp edges.
At least he didn't use a claw-hammer to pull them out.
@@allennance949 But he did lever against the saddle.
John Shalamskas lucky that Taylor use ebony pins then eh
yep, this guy is a dick, i'd take my guitar to a car wash before letting him get his claws on one of mine.
@@HarryNicNicholas d-bag much?
What is the exact make & Model of your String Winder please? I'd love to purchase one ( same as yours ). Seems like it works great. I just bought a New 414ce-R Taylor, and I've been watching all of your Tips and Maintenance videos. Great information.
@@ElixirStringsMedia Oh Thanks. I'd appreciate that . . . if you can? (nothing critical though) Please don't go to any trouble. I have the Music Nomad Grip Winder (which I love) but yours would be a little faster. Stay Safe brother.
Althought there is a lot of good info in this video, I would NEVER use steel wool or pullers. Leaves particles in the FB, gets in your pores, gets inhaled. White or gold scotchbrite pads avoid all this AND you don't have to tape over your newly polished guitar. Using pliers (which is what those 'pullers' are, really) to remove bridge pins is a disaster - scratches the pins, scratches the bridge. Far too aggressive. If you need to use pullers, either your pegs are too tight or your ball ends (sorry I can't think of another way to say this) are pulling up into the bridgeplate (bad) or just jammed tightly against it (OK). Once you've got all the strings off, just push each string down a quarter inch into the bridge and your pegs should be immediately loose enough to remove with light finger pressure.
What about all the dust inside the sound hole ? Just a damp cloth? A can of air blaster? Anyone have any tips ?
Air compressor in the garage. Blow across the top of the sound hole, not directly into. It will make a howling sound and the dust will come flying out. A can o’ air works too. i wouldn’t use a damp cloth.
There's a lot of wrong going on here, mostly below.
LOL...cool.....i have been using turtle wax on guitars for ages. Glad to see someone else thinks it's a good idea as well
I never use anything other than Murphy's oil soap, diluted 3 to 1 with distilled water to clean and polish my guitars, even on the fret boards, plus a little Cape Cod metal polish for frets themselves.
It's been working for 40 years and never fails to keep them clean and looking great.
@@charlie-obrien I only use turtle wax in the solid body electric. It doesn't show fingerprints easily. I managed, and "service managed" a music ship for 33 years (starting in 1974). Everyone waiting for their meatball sub in the shop next door, covered with drywall, would come in all day wanting to play our electric guitars . They had absolutely no intention of buying. The turtle wax worked well for solid body electrics to keep the finger prints down. Just to show you how bad it was in that shop.....the same man would come in on Saturdays for 20+ years and play "a scale" on a classical guitar and then just leave.
... I was expecting the steel wool fragments to be picked up with a magnet... magnetizing a screwdriver works well... thanks for sharing your expertise .... :)
I believe that is painters tape and not masking tape. Painters tape leaves no reside behind where masking tape can.
I never use anything other than Murphy's oil soap, diluted 3 to 1 with distilled water to clean and polish my guitars, even on the fret boards, plus a little Cape Cod metal polish for frets themselves.
It's been working for 40 years and never fails to keep them clean and looking great.
Steel wool longitudinally does not clean next to frets. Oil with toothbrush cross wide does. I use teak oil. You can use boiled linseed. You can also use body lotion. Just wipe off excess.
R.Lee
I like,LIQUID GOLD wood cleaner and preservation oil...with small piece of T-shirt cloth and work it into fretboard and bridge sparingly!.. Not expensive. Boiled linseed oil can get a crackly film when dry. It's a paint additive. Also very lightly clean the " gunk" build up on each side of fret use a sewing needle .I use an old air brush needle it's long and less likely to " dig in " do it very very LIGHTLY at an angle. .Also 3M makes a auto body " scratch" pad but get the GREY colored one...NOT THE RED. Use common sense light pressure. Its mainly used in prep work before clear coat on 2-3 stage paint jobs. Don't let the words SCUFF OR SCRATCH scare you..approach with a very light touch..u can cut a small square with scissors. Its the artisans version of a pot scrubber .but extremely fine..plus no steel wool floating around.
Ciao
Paolo
My question is show boat- What about perpendicular cleaning along the fret stays!!!! GUNK builds up in those areas... A fine pic does the job to scrape away all the debris...etc. I AM NOW QUESTIONING YOUR COMPETANCE!!! SORRY!!
What about the cleaner, and or sealer, for the body of natural taylor guitars like for example the Mahogony GS mini?
Hi, check with Taylor Guitars directly on what they recommend. Their website is full of great info. Thanks.
@@ElixirStringsMedia Thanks, found that section on the Taylor website and for satin guitars they say, "These areas can be wiped down with a slightly damp cloth for cleaning. Avoid any wax or thicker polishes on satin finished areas as they will leave the finish looking splotchy. Our Taylor polish mentioned above is safe to use on satin finishes."
Just buy your guitars tuned.
And buy a lot of them.
The strings go on the outside.
bwhahah thanks you for making my day.
"Pro Tip: First step: Run all 6 strings backwards through tuner so the eyelet/ball ends at headstock. Finished? Good. ...Now what did you learn??"
HAHAHAHA!! The perfect solution. And if it goes out of tune take it back to the store.
Is here the spy guitar?
We not gonna damage the guitar...
Lets his elbow rest on the guitarneck :'D
1:24
Everybody's a critic. But don't you put the pins back in the SAME holes? I tried out a brand new 900 series Taylor today c/w armrest. The tag said 6500 Canadian dollars and buddy YOU would NOT be touching it!
Elixer strings are the best on the market for acoustic guitars, id love for you guys to make nylon strings too
Funny. That's exactly the side cutters I use on my identical Taylor. I put a bit of tape on the back side of the cutters. I suppose the debate on neck waxing will go on and on, but I find that it works beautifully on my Taylor, but not on my unfinished Hamer maple neck. The Hamer likes the 4000 steel wool, but that's it.
so you polish it, then stick tape on it...and you use car wax. i don't have a taylor.
You know I use Elixir strings and I believe they are the best but I guess we all do things differently when it comes to changing strings. Don't you put the same pens back into the same holes at Taylor's? Every string has a different size at every slot gets used to the same size string so if you're using $40 pins so why wouldn't you put them back into the same holes so the string size you use wouldn't wear them out? just asking you a question. Not trying to be a smart-ass but just asking a simple question
I never use anything other than Murphy's oil soap, diluted 3 to 1 with distilled water to clean and polish my guitars, even on the fret boards, plus a little Cape Cod metal polish for frets themselves.
It's been working for 40 years and never fails to keep them clean and looking great.
Shouldn't you save the polish for last. Also bone pins are fragile, push them from inside out so they are not scared by the wire cutters you used. I have set up and cleaned 1000's of guitars,basses, violins, cellos in my 40 years and would never treat an instrument like this. No disrespect intended.
Can someone please tell me if they've ever used boiled linseed oil from "Klean Strip"? You know the one you can get at Walmart?
Thank you.
If you have a nitro finish please don't use blue painters tape in the way this guy does. You'd be safer laying a cloth or a towel over the soundhole. I'm assuming Taylors have some sort of UV cure poly lacquer which the tape won't rip off.
I prefer unloosing and removing the strings one at a time, that way all the tension doesn't go away so quick (which isn't good for the neck and the top).
Suggestion: I would ask John Carruthers at the M.I. Guitar Craft Academy or Stew Mac what he thinks is best for cleaning the neck. .
Linseed on Brazilian rosewood and miracle cloth on maple
Is it possible to wax a guitar with a non-shiny finish?
I agree, all these years later, about ignoring the armchair experts advice and listen to the man Whom works at 1 of the top guitar manufacturers in the world. But I also agree that even he had to of had a chuckle to himself as he said the words “remove the strings slowly” whilst using the electric winder
Slowly is a relative term here
steel wool? over the neck so it rubs on the fretboard? Will it not leave scratches? I thought you were supposed to tape the fretboard between frets to protect the fingerboard? Am missing something?
so I have "Lemon Essential Oil" after-shave gel from the Art of Shaving...hahaha. would it be ok if I used that on my fretboard?
As long as you use a good moustache wax afterwards.
Afta
what do i do if my frets that were silver are now brown/green-ish? does the steel wool clean that off?
Thanks so much! This is very practical, easy to follow instructions. And if routinely followed, it will keep your guitar looking great. But so many people wait until they've got layers of crud on the fretboard, as well as on the various crevices of the guitar. So easy to MAINTAIN a guitar's finish, as opposed to trying to have to radically clean it after long periods of buildup, and what the oils in your hands and string corrosion particles do to it.
So awesome...I think i want to work at Taylor Guitars now!