You are more of a professional than some of the contractors I have had the displeasure to meet. I'm playing catch up. I'm behind in watching your videos. I really enjoy them. You always give the best descriptions of what your doing. Looking beautiful.
I love using fridge panels cause it provides a more custom built-in look. Next time, fasten the fridge panels to the cabinet first then hoist up into place. I have to work by myself as well, thanks for the ladder trick. I also temp fasten a nailer or ledge 2x3 to the wall and rest the uppers on that.
I like the braces you built and the idea of using shims to adjust the cabinet. Your lady will say I'd like such and such done. Honey you say, how do I do it? Ahh you'll figure it out. You did ole buddy!
To fill in that corner gap on side, I would remove the one piece of paneling, unless you can match it. Rip a board and fasten it between cabinet and wall to fill gap and provide a good backing before new paneling.
Nice work! As mentioned in a few other videos here, I used to design and install Kitchens and Baths for a living. A few thing others may wish to think about if they are also going to use refrigerator end panels for a more built-in look: - Make sure you check the ventilation requirements for your frig before you try and make the opening as tight as possible. There is a lot of heat that comes off the back of refrigerator and it needs to breath to remain efficient. - Make sure you think about the current model frig you have, but also measure a number of other similar models to get a feel for an opening that will work for other models as you are likely to have to replace your frig before you have to replace your cabinets and you want to make sure other models can fit in the opening. - Countertops extend between 3/4" and 1.5" past the end of the cabinet face. If you really want a clean look, order the refrigerator panels at 27" depth instead of 24". Then trim them back to roughly 1/2" deeper than your countertops will be. This gives the end of the counter top something to terminate into and prevents the counter top nosing from sticking out past the frig panels and catching on your hip or denting the frig door when extended all the way open (if you have a side by side configuration). Another nice touch for the cabinet above the stove is to order it at 15" depth (usual wall cabinet depth is 11.75"). Then the microwave/range hood doesn't have a little shelf where it sticks out past the cabinet and also you get back some of the lost space inside due to the venting. A cheap alternative is to actually put a 2x4 frame on the wall and mount the standard depth cabinet out from the wall by the 3.5" depth of the 2x4 - note this trick only works if the cabinet is all the way to the ceiling and sandwiched on both sides by other cabinets or else there will be a visible gap on the sides.
I'm working on forced ventilation for the refrigerator cubby area. I would love to have a deeper cabinet above the microwave, but some models (our included) have a vent feature above the door and requires a stick out for pulling air in. Thanks for the information!
Wow Andrew that is a nice job you did man. I like your cabinets you put in your house they look so nice man. You going to have a very nice kitchen when it is done. You are right it takes patience and time to put cabinets up. I put some in my house and I ran out of time. I had to stop because I had a cross country load going to LA California for the government and I could not be late with this load. Good job buddy you take it easy.
Was just rumaging around and found this...I have some upper cabinets to install and was not sure how I was going to do it...now I have an idea and am not so much afraid as before TY
You're doing an awesome job Andrew !! I know Tiffany is getting excited as well !! You've come a long way and it looks beautiful. Stay safe and God bless.
Man this can’t be your first time doing this. You have been blessed with an amazing gift. I wish I had half the talent that you have. God Bless You!! Keep the videos coming.🙏🏾👍🏾
Not sure if you commented on this video or the live stream about people dissuading you from installing granite countertops. I've had them for over 10 years and couldn't be happier. My original installer sealed them and recommended always using a quality Granite cleaner and polisher (I use Weiman) and have had absolutely no problems. On occasion a hot pan has been placed on the granite (by my kids) with no adverse affects. I have never re-sealed them, and they look just as awesome today as the day they were installed. Just my 2 cents
Andrew your cupboards look great. I do love the way you framed the fridge in, really looks good and finished. Checked my fridge and it’s no ware near as nice as you finished yours off. Great video. Thanks. Take care. 🇨🇦
I see that your microwave electrical outlet is behind the vent pipe, it should be over to the over to the right! now get a flush angle extension cord, so the microwave cord will plug in away from the pipe, since it would be hard to plug in behind the pipe with the cord that is on the unit
Great job 👍. Great idea on the cabinet stand to help you. I love that battery powered jig-saw, got to get one of those. You didn't tell us what construction was going on. You know how we are, we need to know (are OCD can't take it). 😱
Andrew I hope you taped the install of your Microwave. I’m very I intetested as I need to replace my old unit. Kitten looking great. Finish master bedroom and bathroom and you move in, after septic install. 🙏
@@TKCL Did you consider adding a foot rail on the overhang side of cabinets? I think it would add charm when viewing from the living room and entrance.
Hi Andrew, I can't say enough good things about your cabinet installation. I like how you improvised a "holder" to hold up the upper cabinets because you're working by yourself. You just did the work of three men. Remarkable work! God Bless.
Wholly Molee that is one big microwave! I didn't see you install any lead shielding, are you gonna be safe operating that nuker without it?🤪 But seriously, adding all the extra screws and whatnot to make everything just that much more secure is something I am a big fan of! It's better to have and not need than to need and not have is how the saying goes I believe.
I love watching the Thinker Tinkerer make tools on the fly to get a project done. Then modifying original tool plan to perfection. Using the screw for the "adjustment" was brilliant! You remind me of me. Only question is how is the air going to be replaced in the house by the vent-a-hood sending it outside?
That's something I'm kicking around now, I need to figure out how to trick the fresh air damper to open when the microwave is on. I'm thinking, trust me!
Looking good. I noticed you have a GFCI outlet for the fridge. Not sure of your local code, but you might want to consider putting a regular outlet there so you don't run the risk of the outlet tripping and you not knowing it, then ruining the food in your fridge. Of course this can happen with the GFCI breakers too, but one less chance of unknown tripping.
Local code requires gcfi believe it or not! After inspection it will be a normal outlet, your asking for trouble and lost food with self tripping breakers or outlets on refrigerators or freezers.
I've seen cabinets pull off the wall and the back panel of the cabinet was still on the wall. A single screw out the top would have stopped this from happening. That's a good call.
I was always told you need spacing around the refrigerator. We was told because we didn't have proper spacing it cause our circuitry to over heat and burn out our mother board. Different model refrigerator may require different amount of air flow
That's the beauty of making the cubby, spacious on all 3 sides but it does not appear that way to the eye by using end panels. I've always believed in letting the compressor breathe.
I notice your hole for your Exhaust is right over top of the outlet. How are you going to plug in the microwave. I love the cabinet with glass front very nice look.
@@TKCL Andrew are you planning on boxing in the hood vent pipe? If so the plug is suppose to be accessible which would be in the cabinet not behind the boxed in pipe..
Andrew you are doing a nice job on those cabinets and amazing you are doing it yourself. You should be very proud of yourself for doing such a great job. Have to say you mentioned most people say 16-18 inches. You did good as the code is a minimum of 18 inches from counter to uppers. Other than that why did you put an outlet in the upper cabinet with glass doors?
That originally was not supposed to be a glass cabinet. There is outlets in the cabinets on both sides of the kitchen window for under cabinet lighting. Both of those Outlets are on a switch.
Thought you might like to know I put a new dishwasher in my kitchen and it started leaking I have some really expensive cabinets. So what I did was I ordered from Amazon a water sensor battery operated that sits on the floor so if I have a leak I get notified you could even hook them up with a wire which is better because you get to the batteries easier when it’s under the cabinet instead of under the dishwasher. You can also get a cookie sheet and Lay It’s under your plumbing and dishwasher to mount the alarm in I’d hate to see you run your new cabinets
Good idea, our alarm system offers those water sensors too and will notify us via phone. Now you got me thinking about putting one in my hvac spill pans 🤔
Very informative on lining up and installing upper cabinets with one person. Going to use your jig idea in my laundry room to intall some upper cabinets. Question: who else is working on the house while you are doing the cabinets? Gutters?
Since you’re 12 inches on center over there I think the screws going into the ceiling adding a little more support is a good idea but in a lot of houses your ceiling isn’t rocksolid and moves, especially if there’s a second floor up there and you’ve got people jumping up and down and running around and that can cause flexing, especially on the cabinets more towards the center. On yours you’ve got 12 inches on center in your upper loft floor is pretty rocksolid so I don’t think it matters but if you were putting them in an old cheaply built house you probably wouldn’t want to do that. Plus you look at the amount of screws you have in the walls and depending on the screw those will hold between 50 and 80 pounds each so most cabinets are going to have a problem with 100 pounds or more. I remember my grandmother used to fill a 24 inch deep pantry cabinet with canned foods and it was crazy the amount of weight on each one of those shells but hell up fine.
IMO microwave vent combos are not as good as a dedicated hood vent is. Since you guys mostly cook outside anyways its less of a concern. Im a cast iron user and even my dedicated hood at 400cfm max can barely keep up sometimes. Looks so amazing.
You make me so jealous. My apartment kitchen vent hood vents right back into the kitchen, with a nearby smoke detector and no way to get fresh air. As a result, even frying a hamburger fills the place with greasy smoke that gets on everything, and of course the alarm goes off constantly. The lack of a real vent completely cripples what I can cook.
Just wondering why you would mount your microwave so high. Will your wife be able to reach the controls. Just wondering. Love your channel. Keep up the good work.
That's actually much lower than what we originally had planned. My wife is only a inch or two shorter than me. We both can easily look right in at what's cooking.
Just a couple of questions. Why would you install the microwave above head height?? Don't you need to be able to open the door, place food (sometimes on a plate) in there, watch it does not boil over or spill, and remove the hot item when its finished?? Yes, I understand its up and out of the way and not taking up bench space, but you (mostly Tiffany) will need a foot stool to be able to access it. Also, is it wise to put cabinets above the stove. Normally there's nothing, except a range hood. Where does all the hot steam from cooking go?? I see there's space for a range hood, but where does the outlet for that go?? It cannot go up, because of the microwave. I'm mostly concerned about the height of the microwave, you need to be able to see what you are grabbing, or it will be dangerous. Also, did you consider putting some small shelf above the window, joining the cabinets on either side??
Wait until the next episode, the microwave has a powerful fan that I vent OUTSIDE! Tiffany is only two inches shorter than me, we purposely dropped the cabinet several inches to lower the microwave. It's much lower than it appears and we can easily see inside.
So what was the final distance between the countertop and upper cabinet once everything was installed? What is your ceiling height in the kitchen area? Thanks
18 inches between countertops and upper cabinets. The perfect spacing in my opinion. My ceiling height was 97.5 inches before sheetock. About 96 5/8 tall after sheet rock and texture. I didn't go with the industry standard 96 inches so that helped with my cabinet spacing. Don't forget I lowered my upper cabinets 1 inch to allow for trim.
@@TKCL Thank you so much! Starting to work with a Lily Anne designer and I feel like this is something I can do! Just going to watch this video about 1500 more times lol
Have to think outside of the box! It worked out well, really did! I was able to fine tune the cabinets exactly where I needed them. I'd do this again in a heartbeat.
@@TKCL simply said you got it done. Congrats bud. Beautiful work. Nice cabinets. Nice house it it starting to be. I just like to see how that celing will look. Hopefully you do it before the floor is in.
One other possable thing ... Running wire for a later install of under cabinet led accent lighting Before the backslash, counter top and also a super cool touch is above the toe kick.. which looks friggen awesome All you need to do now is run this wire in a continuous loop for a central controller On off dimmer remote control app control even motion controler with light sensor. All dirt cheap components look on ebay for ideas and components they have TONS of stuff for this But for now just install this everywhere ... ASIN B08MF7BN8H
@@TKCL . Hi, That's Great you have the AC supply side coverd which is the hardest part! Now ALSO pre wire the DC side for a continuous 12-24 volt waterproof 2 or 4 pin Strip style LED adhesive-backed product You'll want a continuous piece along the entire length of the toe kick, so you'll need a run of the hookup wire to supply the DC power in the corner, on the floor. And since the counter tops and back splash are not yet installed you can now VERY easily run a DC voltage "Bus bar" all along the two walls and behind the oven with an individual vertical feeder line up to each under cabinet section. One up for the glass doored cabinet section. (and inside it as well maybe with an inline dimmer of its own) One for the window to the corner section. The corner to the oven section. And the oven to the fridge section. This way no need run wire inside the cabinets themselves or across the microwave and window which is required post construction. So much better and easier this way!!! Search Ebay for ... "Auto ON OFF Detector Body Infrared PIR Motion Sensor Switch For Led Light Strip." And "Brightness PWM Switch Controller Dimmer for LED Strip Light 12V to 24V 8A 96W" You'll want two of each, one pair for the high and the other for the low. You'll need to figure out where best to place the sensors, and locate the Dimmers together somewhere convenient. Also a bypass circuit for always on is a pro feature requiring a bypass switch is nice to have. You can even pre adjust each section individually with these in line dimmers so the master dimmer can maintain the ratios if you wanted to go nuts 😜 for an extra 7 bucks! "(5-pack) Low-profile Inline Controller Dimmer Switch for LED Strip Light" But for NOW just map out and install the DC power wire runs before the counter tops and back splash and you can do anything you want later or next winter. As for the led strip itself the best design features include ... "Tunable White LED Strips" With adjustable color temp between 3000K-6000K ASIN B07TTP3YTP Have fun!
@@TKCL . I believe you're thinking of the simple fixed sizes of 110 volt AC or basic puck style 12 volt fixtures Or perhaps the canned kits of one size fits all of pre configured components with fixed strip length (typically 5 meters) and a fixed color temperature. Vers the modular world of quite inexpensive 12/24 volt DC components based on continuous rolls of raw LED strip where you cut to length each section with various connectors, controls and sensors used in customized installations. For instance the toe kick part and the inside of glass doored cabinets is different for everyone and makes a dramatic custom impact, it can also acts as a night light for midnight snacks when a motion sensor is utilized for a beautiful custom Smart Home vibe For instance standard bare rolls ... ASIN: B00HSF65MC Another key part is the channel molding to house the strip lights for the custom designer look .. ASIN B071FT9SXK Go down the rabbit hole just a bit and you will immediately see the possibilities Did you even look at the parts on Ebay? or as an example this variable color temp remote controled starter kit on Amazon? ASIN: B07ZSW5JRH Yes of course the regular plug in fixtures also look great but for not too much more money a custom installation can be drop dead gorgeous and make you look like a damm Superstar genius 😍 And again all you need to do is run the wire before the counter tops and back splash go in, just run a hot pair past each location and tap into it with a leg in parallel to the exact location and connect the strip later with simple connectors ... ASIN. B07TQ1ZCYX There's only ONE opportunity for a pre construction installation and it only costs less than 20 bucks. ASIN. B08MF7BN8H
@@jp34604 no I have not looked into the lights yet. Need to find a moment to breathe, sit down and start researching. It's been a very busy week from sun up to sun down.
Nice! you really nailed the cabinet install, all are perfectly plum, square, true and secure!!!👍 Suggestions: You may, or may not (?) want to consider installing a variable speed PC type fan (blowing up) above the refrigerator via a cutout in the bottom of that cabinet above it (which is the Least used one in every house) as the semi enclosed space will to some degree trap hot air inside reducing the efficiency and possibility the lifespan of the fridge (they don't last forever anymore;) Since the cabinet doors typically have a silicone dot with a gap the air will pass right out the front up high See ASINB07VYGQPCZ Also, figure out how to access the drip pan underneath beforehand for the future in case it overflows during the defrost cycle or something, some new fridges do that a lot.
@@TKCL . Cool, As the saying goes ... "Great minds think alike" Show me the asin # you selected, did you consider this one? ASIN B07VYGQPCZ Good luck 👍
@@TKCL . Yes there are a bunch of them, you first part # did not work? the 2nd squirrel cage style is only 39 CFM. The most desirable feature are . . - dual ball bearings - UL listed - metal wire screen guard included? - AC power (USB requires an traditional Transformer) - 100%"variable speed controler vers hi med lo switch which is less desirable. - CFM some are are around 40/50 ish others 100 ish - noise level in DB's (lower is quieter) But that is usually at max speed so at 20 to 30 % far lower yet still hi volume of air Since it will run well below halfway you want the highest CFM so when it is at 20 or 30% it is still moving a bunch of air, I Think this one may be the winner? B08TWXW5H8 But the most important part is how and where you want or choose to cut the hole and mount the controler for easy access, maybe use Velcro ** to reach in and grab it depending on wire length outlet location etc .. Maybe the rear most center top, or one or the other corners depending on where the compressor is located???? OR Use the squirrel cage design and not even cut a hole which is probably what you were thinking which I just thought of at the end if so maybe (?) use 2 one in each corner (top or side?) due to very low cfm??? OK this horse is dead, next... good luck 👍
That cabinet company will be happy. You methodically showed how someone can do this on their own. I am sure sales will show that.
Anyone can absolutely do this, just have patience and be willing to learn.
You are more of a professional than some of the contractors I have had the displeasure to meet. I'm playing catch up. I'm behind in watching your videos. I really enjoy them. You always give the best descriptions of what your doing. Looking beautiful.
Thank you for watching and the kind words!
This has truly been an education. Thank you much!
Thank you!
Looks amazing. Your attention to detail is amazing. Love it!
Thank you
Good morning Andrew and fellow Viewers, greetings from Jamaica 🇯🇲. Wow Andrew the cabinets looks great 👍👍. Great choice
Thank you very much mr. Lloyd!
The kitchen is looking amazing.
Thank you
Andrew they look Amazing!!! Great job. 👍
Thank you very much
Nice job looks good.
Thank you!
Oh wow!!!!❤️❤️❤️❤️👍
Looking great:) it’s all coming together:) tfs stay safe and God Bless:)
Thank you, God bless!
THANK YOU FOR THE GREAT INFO AND THE IDEAS TOO
Thank you for watching!
Your jig worked great---
It did an excellent job!
I love using fridge panels cause it provides a more custom built-in look. Next time, fasten the fridge panels to the cabinet first then hoist up into place. I have to work by myself as well, thanks for the ladder trick. I also temp fasten a nailer or ledge 2x3 to the wall and rest the uppers on that.
The cabinets look great!
Thanks
Hi, Andrew! You continue to amaze me. The trim above the cabinets looks outstanding. You and Tiffany think of everything.
Thank you very much!
I like the braces you built and the idea of using shims to adjust the cabinet. Your lady will say I'd like such and such done. Honey you say, how do I do it? Ahh you'll figure it out. You did ole buddy!
Thank you very much!
Love the trim really looks sharp!👍💞
Looking forward to installing that and seeing the cabinets finished.
That top trim piece will be a neat touch. Cant wait to see it and all the extra decorative items installed. Looking good 👍🏻
We think so too! Thanks for watching!
To fill in that corner gap on side, I would remove the one piece of paneling, unless you can match it. Rip a board and fasten it between cabinet and wall to fill gap and provide a good backing before new paneling.
Well, I learned that OCD comes handy sometimes:))) Great job, looks beautiful!
Yes it does! These cabinets require more precision than anything I've built in the house thus far.
The upper cabinet jig was smart. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you, it worked extremely well!
@@TKCL i’ve always screw a 2 x 4 to the wall but then you have to fix the holes. Lol
I was considering that, but it didn't offer me the support this did.
Cabinets look great
Thank you!
Looking good Andrew! Some good install info!
Thank you very much!
Looking good
Good job, great details. :)
Thank you!
Looks great man.....doin a great job
Thank you buddy!
Brilliant installation. Your jig was the right price too. I'm enjoying your build!
Definitely the right price, nothing beats free.
That looks so good!!!
Thank you!
BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!
Thanks!
Nice work! As mentioned in a few other videos here, I used to design and install Kitchens and Baths for a living. A few thing others may wish to think about if they are also going to use refrigerator end panels for a more built-in look:
- Make sure you check the ventilation requirements for your frig before you try and make the opening as tight as possible. There is a lot of heat that comes off the back of refrigerator and it needs to breath to remain efficient.
- Make sure you think about the current model frig you have, but also measure a number of other similar models to get a feel for an opening that will work for other models as you are likely to have to replace your frig before you have to replace your cabinets and you want to make sure other models can fit in the opening.
- Countertops extend between 3/4" and 1.5" past the end of the cabinet face. If you really want a clean look, order the refrigerator panels at 27" depth instead of 24". Then trim them back to roughly 1/2" deeper than your countertops will be. This gives the end of the counter top something to terminate into and prevents the counter top nosing from sticking out past the frig panels and catching on your hip or denting the frig door when extended all the way open (if you have a side by side configuration).
Another nice touch for the cabinet above the stove is to order it at 15" depth (usual wall cabinet depth is 11.75"). Then the microwave/range hood doesn't have a little shelf where it sticks out past the cabinet and also you get back some of the lost space inside due to the venting. A cheap alternative is to actually put a 2x4 frame on the wall and mount the standard depth cabinet out from the wall by the 3.5" depth of the 2x4 - note this trick only works if the cabinet is all the way to the ceiling and sandwiched on both sides by other cabinets or else there will be a visible gap on the sides.
I'm working on forced ventilation for the refrigerator cubby area. I would love to have a deeper cabinet above the microwave, but some models (our included) have a vent feature above the door and requires a stick out for pulling air in. Thanks for the information!
Looking awesome Andrew! Everything makes perfect sense, and I put my cabinets in the same way.
Thank you very much!
Wow Andrew that is a nice job you did man. I like your cabinets you put in your house they look so nice man. You going to have a very nice kitchen when it is done. You are right it takes patience and time to put cabinets up. I put some in my house and I ran out of time. I had to stop because I had a cross country load going to LA California for the government and I could not be late with this load. Good job buddy you take it easy.
Excellent!! Learned about the microwave; that internal blower is useless!! Next install will vent out!!
Absolutely, the recirc feature is useless, needs to vent outside.
Was just rumaging around and found this...I have some upper cabinets to install and was not sure how I was going to do it...now I have an idea and am not so much afraid as before TY
Thank you for watching, glad you found it useful.
It looks great.
Thank you!
The upper cabinets looks good can't wait to see them trimmed out
Coming soon!
Wow great vid, seemed even better than your regular high level videoing.
Great job Andrew - really interesting and informative!
Thank you very much
As always looking good man. Very nice choice in cabinets.
Thank you!
Looks awesome! Once all the back,sides and trim are in It will really start to come together. Great job man.
Thank you!
You're doing an awesome job Andrew !! I know Tiffany is getting excited as well !! You've come a long way and it looks beautiful. Stay safe and God bless.
Thank you very much, God bless!
Very nice!
Thank you!
Man this can’t be your first time doing this. You have been blessed with an amazing gift. I wish I had half the talent that you have. God Bless You!! Keep the videos coming.🙏🏾👍🏾
Definitely my first time with all of this, never built a house before. Thank you for the kind words.
Cabinets look great!
Thank you!
Great job. Looks very nice.
Thank you!
Enjoyed this video!! Cabinets are beautiful!!
Thank you!
Not sure if you commented on this video or the live stream about people dissuading you from installing granite countertops. I've had them for over 10 years and couldn't be happier. My original installer sealed them and recommended always using a quality Granite cleaner and polisher (I use Weiman) and have had absolutely no problems. On occasion a hot pan has been placed on the granite (by my kids) with no adverse affects. I have never re-sealed them, and they look just as awesome today as the day they were installed. Just my 2 cents
Thank you very much for the information, we really do love the look of granite.
Awesome job. You do some great work.
Thank you very much!
Andrew your cupboards look great. I do love the way you framed the fridge in, really looks good and finished. Checked my fridge and it’s no ware near as nice as you finished yours off. Great video. Thanks. Take care. 🇨🇦
Thank you sir!
I see that your microwave electrical outlet is behind the vent pipe, it should be over to the
over to the right! now get a flush angle extension cord, so the microwave cord will plug in
away from the pipe, since it would be hard to plug in behind the pipe with the cord that is on the unit
Already ordered a flat plug, will be delivered soon.
Looking amazing!
Thank you!
Great job 👍. Great idea on the cabinet stand to help you. I love that battery powered jig-saw, got to get one of those. You didn't tell us what construction was going on. You know how we are, we need to know (are OCD can't take it). 😱
Lol..... Gutters.... FINALLY!
Hi, for not being a professional, you sure do an awesome job...
Thank you very much!
Well I will say when you said you were going to build your own house I thought you were crazy but I will say you are doing a dame good job
I thought I was crazy too 😳! It's been a fun learning experience.
Andrew I hope you taped the install of your Microwave. I’m very I intetested as I need to replace my old unit. Kitten looking great. Finish master bedroom and bathroom and you move in, after septic install. 🙏
I'm recording that episode now, installing the microwave and trimming out the cabinets.
@@TKCL Did you consider adding a foot rail on the overhang side of cabinets? I think it would add charm when viewing from the living room and entrance.
No I hadn't considered that, but would be a nice feature.
Hi Andrew, I can't say enough good things about your cabinet installation. I like how you improvised a "holder" to hold up the upper cabinets because you're working by yourself. You just did the work of three men. Remarkable work! God Bless.
Thank you so much! God bless you!
And I thought I was the only one to store my light bulbs in the cabinet above the microwave.
Yes! Perfect place!
Wholly Molee that is one big microwave! I didn't see you install any lead shielding, are you gonna be safe operating that nuker without it?🤪 But seriously, adding all the extra screws and whatnot to make everything just that much more secure is something I am a big fan of! It's better to have and not need than to need and not have is how the saying goes I believe.
We wanted a microwave large enough to fill that Gap and to have a powerful blower motor to vent outside.
I love watching the Thinker Tinkerer make tools on the fly to get a project done. Then modifying original tool plan to perfection. Using the screw for the "adjustment" was brilliant! You remind me of me. Only question is how is the air going to be replaced in the house by the vent-a-hood sending it outside?
That's something I'm kicking around now, I need to figure out how to trick the fresh air damper to open when the microwave is on. I'm thinking, trust me!
Looking good. I noticed you have a GFCI outlet for the fridge. Not sure of your local code, but you might want to consider putting a regular outlet there so you don't run the risk of the outlet tripping and you not knowing it, then ruining the food in your fridge. Of course this can happen with the GFCI breakers too, but one less chance of unknown tripping.
Local code requires gcfi believe it or not! After inspection it will be a normal outlet, your asking for trouble and lost food with self tripping breakers or outlets on refrigerators or freezers.
I've seen cabinets pull off the wall and the back panel of the cabinet was still on the wall. A single screw out the top would have stopped this from happening. That's a good call.
I think so too!
CABINETS LOOKING GOOD. LIKE THE JIG. NOW YOU CAN GO FISHING HA HA HA. BE BLESS. I READ YOUR COMMENTS.
Lol I'm so ready for some outdoor time!
I was always told you need spacing around the refrigerator. We was told because we didn't have proper spacing it cause our circuitry to over heat and burn out our mother board. Different model refrigerator may require different amount of air flow
That's the beauty of making the cubby, spacious on all 3 sides but it does not appear that way to the eye by using end panels. I've always believed in letting the compressor breathe.
I notice your hole for your Exhaust is right over top of the outlet. How are you going to plug in the microwave. I love the cabinet with glass front very nice look.
Flat mount plug with 1ft extension cord. It lined up perfectly to be a problem 🤦
@@TKCL Andrew are you planning on boxing in the hood vent pipe? If so the plug is suppose to be accessible which would be in the cabinet not behind the boxed in pipe..
No I'm not boxing it in, and you'll still be able to access the GFI trip buttons and functions.
👍❤
I’ll never put a microwave above my stove; I’m not tall enough to use one mounted that high. lol
We were going higher, but lowered the cabinet/microwave last minute. We are not tall either lol!
Andrew you are doing a nice job on those cabinets and amazing you are doing it yourself. You should be very proud of yourself for doing such a great job. Have to say you mentioned most people say 16-18 inches. You did good as the code is a minimum of 18 inches from counter to uppers. Other than that why did you put an outlet in the upper cabinet with glass doors?
That originally was not supposed to be a glass cabinet. There is outlets in the cabinets on both sides of the kitchen window for under cabinet lighting. Both of those Outlets are on a switch.
Thought you might like to know I put a new dishwasher in my kitchen and it started leaking I have some really expensive cabinets. So what I did was I ordered from Amazon a water sensor battery operated that sits on the floor so if I have a leak I get notified you could even hook them up with a wire which is better because you get to the batteries easier when it’s under the cabinet instead of under the dishwasher. You can also get a cookie sheet and Lay It’s under your plumbing and dishwasher to mount the alarm in I’d hate to see you run your new cabinets
Good idea, our alarm system offers those water sensors too and will notify us via phone. Now you got me thinking about putting one in my hvac spill pans 🤔
Very informative on lining up and installing upper cabinets with one person. Going to use your jig idea in my laundry room to intall some upper cabinets.
Question: who else is working on the house while you are doing the cabinets? Gutters?
Very good guess! Gutter video coming soon!
LOL... I used a 5 gallon bucket and shims. I didn't have the means or any help except a 5 year old.
Use what you can!
Great job on the cabinets. Just curious, why an outlet in your glass front cabinet? Is there lighting in it tat you needed the outlet for?
There is outlets in both cabinets either side of the sink for undercabinet lighting. Thay are on switches.
Since you’re 12 inches on center over there I think the screws going into the ceiling adding a little more support is a good idea but in a lot of houses your ceiling isn’t rocksolid and moves, especially if there’s a second floor up there and you’ve got people jumping up and down and running around and that can cause flexing, especially on the cabinets more towards the center. On yours you’ve got 12 inches on center in your upper loft floor is pretty rocksolid so I don’t think it matters but if you were putting them in an old cheaply built house you probably wouldn’t want to do that. Plus you look at the amount of screws you have in the walls and depending on the screw those will hold between 50 and 80 pounds each so most cabinets are going to have a problem with 100 pounds or more. I remember my grandmother used to fill a 24 inch deep pantry cabinet with canned foods and it was crazy the amount of weight on each one of those shells but hell up fine.
Over do is what I do! 🤣
IMO microwave vent combos are not as good as a dedicated hood vent is. Since you guys mostly cook outside anyways its less of a concern. Im a cast iron user and even my dedicated hood at 400cfm max can barely keep up sometimes. Looks so amazing.
Ours is 300 cfm, but we don't fry inside or do any intensive cook top cooking. All that is outside to keep our home smelling fresh.
You make me so jealous. My apartment kitchen vent hood vents right back into the kitchen, with a nearby smoke detector and no way to get fresh air. As a result, even frying a hamburger fills the place with greasy smoke that gets on everything, and of course the alarm goes off constantly. The lack of a real vent completely cripples what I can cook.
I understand I hate that microwave recirculation function. As you stated it doesn't work at all.
Just wondering why you would mount your microwave so high. Will your wife be able to reach the controls. Just wondering. Love your channel. Keep up the good work.
That's actually much lower than what we originally had planned. My wife is only a inch or two shorter than me. We both can easily look right in at what's cooking.
Just a couple of questions. Why would you install the microwave above head height?? Don't you need to be able to open the door, place food (sometimes on a plate) in there, watch it does not boil over or spill, and remove the hot item when its finished?? Yes, I understand its up and out of the way and not taking up bench space, but you (mostly Tiffany) will need a foot stool to be able to access it.
Also, is it wise to put cabinets above the stove. Normally there's nothing, except a range hood. Where does all the hot steam from cooking go?? I see there's space for a range hood, but where does the outlet for that go?? It cannot go up, because of the microwave. I'm mostly concerned about the height of the microwave, you need to be able to see what you are grabbing, or it will be dangerous.
Also, did you consider putting some small shelf above the window, joining the cabinets on either side??
Wait until the next episode, the microwave has a powerful fan that I vent OUTSIDE! Tiffany is only two inches shorter than me, we purposely dropped the cabinet several inches to lower the microwave. It's much lower than it appears and we can easily see inside.
Why do you have and outlet in side the cabinets?
Those are switched outlets for under cabinet lighting.
So what was the final distance between the countertop and upper cabinet once everything was installed? What is your ceiling height in the kitchen area? Thanks
18 inches between countertops and upper cabinets. The perfect spacing in my opinion. My ceiling height was 97.5 inches before sheetock. About 96 5/8 tall after sheet rock and texture. I didn't go with the industry standard 96 inches so that helped with my cabinet spacing. Don't forget I lowered my upper cabinets 1 inch to allow for trim.
@@TKCL Thank you so much! Starting to work with a Lily Anne designer and I feel like this is something I can do! Just going to watch this video about 1500 more times lol
You can do it there is several videos on the channel of me putting them in.
Did you turn off the power to the whole house or just the kitchen? 🤔 because i see the fan on the other room still working lol
Just the kitchen, no need to turn power off to the house.
Hi Andrew I noticed someone walking across when you were putting this cabinet up at 22:56 who was that person.
Gutters being installed.... Yaaaayyyy!
Ol MacGyver came through again, looks great! How come the tool’s name is covered, copyright stuff?
🤷 Don't know what you mean, I didn't cover anything.
@@TKCL oh ok looked like dewalt had been covered with black marker , must be the camera lol
Definitely wasn't me!
Remember. Your refrigerator has to breathe.
That's the beauty of the cubby, there is open gap all the way around it. The trim gives the illusion everything is tight against it.
Second
Well you not a fool but normally we do not do what you did. But you are an army of one...
Have to think outside of the box! It worked out well, really did! I was able to fine tune the cabinets exactly where I needed them. I'd do this again in a heartbeat.
@@TKCL simply said you got it done. Congrats bud. Beautiful work. Nice cabinets. Nice house it it starting to be. I just like to see how that celing will look. Hopefully you do it before the floor is in.
One other possable thing ...
Running wire for a later install of under cabinet led accent lighting
Before the backslash, counter top and also a super cool touch is above the toe kick.. which looks friggen awesome
All you need to do now is run this wire in a continuous loop for a central controller
On off dimmer remote control app control even motion controler with light sensor. All dirt cheap components look on ebay for ideas and components they have TONS of stuff for this
But for now just install this everywhere ...
ASIN B08MF7BN8H
Already ran two outlets in each cabinet on either side of the sink for that. They are on a switch too 😉
@@TKCL
.
Hi,
That's Great you have the AC supply side coverd which is the hardest part!
Now ALSO pre wire the DC side for a continuous 12-24 volt waterproof 2 or 4 pin Strip style LED adhesive-backed product
You'll want a continuous piece along the entire length of the toe kick, so you'll need a run of the hookup wire to supply the DC power in the corner, on the floor.
And since the counter tops and back splash are not yet installed you can now VERY easily run a DC voltage "Bus bar" all along the two walls and behind the oven with an individual vertical feeder line up to each under cabinet section.
One up for the glass doored cabinet section. (and inside it as well maybe with an inline dimmer of its own)
One for the window to the corner section.
The corner to the oven section.
And the oven to the fridge section.
This way no need run wire inside the cabinets themselves or across the microwave and window which is required post construction. So much better and easier this way!!!
Search Ebay for ...
"Auto ON OFF Detector Body Infrared PIR Motion Sensor Switch For Led Light Strip."
And
"Brightness PWM Switch Controller Dimmer for LED Strip Light 12V to 24V 8A 96W"
You'll want two of each, one pair for the high and the other for the low.
You'll need to figure out where best to place the sensors, and locate the Dimmers together somewhere convenient.
Also a bypass circuit for always on is a pro feature requiring a bypass switch is nice to have.
You can even pre adjust each section individually with these in line dimmers so the master dimmer can maintain the ratios if you wanted to go nuts 😜 for an extra 7 bucks!
"(5-pack) Low-profile Inline Controller Dimmer Switch for LED Strip Light"
But for NOW just map out and install the DC power wire runs before the counter tops and back splash and you can do anything you want later or next winter.
As for the led strip itself the best design features include ...
"Tunable White LED Strips"
With adjustable color temp between 3000K-6000K
ASIN B07TTP3YTP
Have fun!
I think you misunderstood me, the outlets are in the upper cabinets to provide under cabinet lighting for the countertops.
@@TKCL
.
I believe you're thinking of the simple fixed sizes of 110 volt AC or basic puck style 12 volt fixtures
Or perhaps the canned kits of one size fits all of pre configured components with fixed strip length (typically 5 meters) and a fixed color temperature.
Vers the modular world of quite inexpensive 12/24 volt DC components based on continuous rolls of raw LED strip where you cut to length each section with various connectors, controls and sensors used in customized installations.
For instance the toe kick part and the inside of glass doored cabinets is different for everyone and makes a dramatic custom impact, it can also acts as a night light for midnight snacks when a motion sensor is utilized for a beautiful custom Smart Home vibe
For instance standard bare rolls ...
ASIN: B00HSF65MC
Another key part is the channel molding to house the strip lights for the custom designer look ..
ASIN B071FT9SXK
Go down the rabbit hole just a bit and you will immediately see the possibilities
Did you even look at the parts on Ebay? or as an example this variable color temp remote controled starter kit on Amazon?
ASIN: B07ZSW5JRH
Yes of course the regular plug in fixtures also look great but for not too much more money a custom installation can be drop dead gorgeous and make you look like a damm Superstar genius 😍
And again all you need to do is run the wire before the counter tops and back splash go in, just run a hot pair past each location and tap into it with a leg in parallel to the exact location and connect the strip later with simple connectors ...
ASIN. B07TQ1ZCYX
There's only ONE opportunity for a pre construction installation and it only costs less than 20 bucks.
ASIN. B08MF7BN8H
@@jp34604 no I have not looked into the lights yet. Need to find a moment to breathe, sit down and start researching. It's been a very busy week from sun up to sun down.
why didnt ya do a upper corner cabinet?
Looks like a blind corner cabinet. Just another way to do your corners.
Exactly! Blind corner is what was offered, still get plenty of storage. Actually we have more than we know what to do with.
I'm guessing he would have needed a few more inches to make it fit. But I was wondering the same thing.
Due to odd wall measurements we put a blind corner so we could add a filler piece for adjustment.
Nice! you really nailed the cabinet install, all are perfectly plum, square, true and secure!!!👍
Suggestions:
You may, or may not (?) want to consider installing a variable speed PC type fan (blowing up) above the refrigerator via a cutout in the bottom of that cabinet above it (which is the Least used one in every house) as the semi enclosed space will to some degree trap hot air inside reducing the efficiency and possibility the lifespan of the fridge (they don't last forever anymore;) Since the cabinet doors typically have a silicone dot with a gap the air will pass right out the front up high
See
ASINB07VYGQPCZ
Also, figure out how to access the drip pan underneath beforehand for the future in case it overflows during the defrost cycle or something, some new fridges do that a lot.
Wow we think absolutely alike! I ordered a variable speed fan yesterday for the cubby! That's crazy you suggested that 🤣
@@TKCL
.
Cool,
As the saying goes ...
"Great minds think alike"
Show me the asin # you selected,
did you consider this one?
ASIN B07VYGQPCZ
Good luck 👍
This one B01MRS2HE7 and this one B08TWWWH3C
@@TKCL
.
Yes there are a bunch of them, you first part # did not work? the 2nd squirrel cage style is only 39 CFM.
The most desirable feature are . .
- dual ball bearings
- UL listed
- metal wire screen guard included?
- AC power (USB requires an traditional Transformer)
- 100%"variable speed controler vers hi med lo switch which is less desirable.
- CFM some are are around 40/50 ish others 100 ish
- noise level in DB's (lower is quieter) But that is usually at max speed so at 20 to 30 % far lower yet still hi volume of air
Since it will run well below halfway you want the highest CFM so when it is at 20 or 30% it is still moving a bunch of air, I Think this one may be the winner?
B08TWXW5H8
But the most important part is how and where you want or choose to cut the hole and mount the controler for easy access, maybe use Velcro ** to reach in and grab it depending on wire length outlet location etc ..
Maybe the rear most center top, or one or the other corners depending on where the compressor is located????
OR
Use the squirrel cage design and not even cut a hole which is probably what you were thinking which I just thought of at the end if so maybe (?) use 2 one in each corner (top or side?) due to very low cfm???
OK this horse is dead, next...
good luck 👍
First
You win! 😊
@@TKCL
Just finished the video. That jig you made worked out well! Is the vent ducting going to make a 90° in the ceiling and out the wall?
Yes it is, that's the next episode!
For a first time installer I thought you did great 👍
Thank you