Thanks... I did not expect to get my initial plunger installation question answered because I thought it proceeded this phase, but voila: there it is (I think!). I'm not new to shooting, just very rusty at Olympic setup. My Shubiya plunger came with no instructions and is a bit different from a Beiter. I kept wondering whether or not (or how much) of the steel, rigid/static portion on the plunger to make protrude into the strike area... thinking there would be a separate adjustment for fine-tuning centershot. But apparently not. Apparently this decision is one and the same. Screw the thing in (and lock it with the collar) to the proper depth that yeilds proper arrow centershot! Eureka, thanks man. Then, turning rear knob doesn't adjust plunger length any further, just spring tension (or maybe compression depth)...? Of course, vastly different plunger depth would be achieved with a different insert (like for a thick wooden riser). I kept suspecting I was supposed to keep the steel sleeve from protruding past the riser... that if it stuck out, the plunger wound compress and the arrow would shave itself with the steel tube that is the plunger sheath. But no. Thanks! Weird questions are hard to get answered alone, haha. You rule (below Jesus)
Nice video. Next week i order my hoyt Satori, this won‘t have a plunger button but i‘ll be able to set up the center shot. I‘ll use Easton Axis Trad. Arrows (parallel shafts). This video helped me a lot and it was easy to follow thanks to the great visualisation! You got a new subscriber
Thank you for this informative video. Is finding a bow's center shot the same as setting plunger depth correctly? I'm asking because your video is the first I have come across that shows how to set up a plunger correctly (sans tension settings), which is what I was looking for but is not addressed in many videos titled something along the lines of "Setting Up a Plunger."
you adjust the plunger for the diameter of the shaft and then the spring to the draw. barreled or parallel only matters when in flight due to the foc balance . the plunger acts like a pivot point for the paradox
Where would be the best place to center the plunger button to on the Victory VXT to, "Fat" front of the arrow or tapered back end? Also should the point be inline with the string or slightly to the left? Thanks.
Left handed barebow archer. Have always struggled with the tradition center shot advice, so this is something I'm looking forward to trying. I also wonder with regards to the 'how clean your release is' comment below, if draw and arrow weight come into play. Just wonder if heavier arrows and draws require the offset to be less (if any) ? (i.e. a heavy bow is likely to move your fingers out of the way much more than a light bow. And a heavy arrow is far more resistant to the side ways motion of coming off of the fingers..)
I've noticed discrepancies from different videos on how to set your centershot. I'm glad you pointed out that it is all because of the type of arrow being used. Thank you for the video.
great video, but i have one question. the part ( @ 1:56 ) where you talk about moving your arrow vertically by adjusting your arrow rest so that the arrow's shaft is centered with the plunger button. i figure that following your steps here is recommended because it's much easier than moving the nock point, but is there ever a time that moving the nock point is needed over doing this step or is moving the nock point taking care of a totally different issue?
I assume you want to shoot from the center of the bow string? I can't find any info on finding the center of the bow string and what if the center of the bow string does not align with the arrow rest? I assume you want to adjust the arrow rest so that it supports the arrow when it is centered perfectly on the bow string.
Hope you found this video helpful and informative. Just to add clarification to a question I get a lot here is a direct quote on center shot by a 2 time Olympic archer 2 time silver medalist. " For a right-handed shooter, if you are shooting a barreled shaft like the Easton X10, put the arrow point to just the left side of the string". "If you are using a parallel shaft like an Easton ACC or Easton X7 Eclipse put the arrow right down the center of the string". Now this may not be true for every sing arrow or archer but it is a good place to start your arrow when tuning your bow. There will be finer adjustments when you do walk back tuning. You may find you need your parallel shafts more to the left.
Shore Shot Archery i have seen your video and i have a question about it am shooting with the arrow easton carbon one 400 must the point of the arrow beside the string or is that else
Since you arrow is a parallel shaft you may want to 1st try setting you center shot down the middle of the arrow. From there see how it tunes to the bow and how well it flys. You can set the center shot so that the string is on the left side of the point but you should get better performance with center shot down the middle.
If I may ask a question on the topic, how would you go about ensuring a central plunger position when using a non-adjustable arrow rest - something like the Hoyt Super Rest? In such a situation I would guess one may need to employ the arrow you plan on shooting with the plunger when seating the rest, so-doing ensuring that the rest is in the right place for the Rest-Arrow combination with plunger adjustments following from this. You may be able to shave a little material off of the rest if it is seated too high, but there is no such quick-fix if it is too low.
I think with a Hoyt SR you have to install it in the right place for the arrows you are using. If you change to a very different arrow (say go from a big alloy arrow to a thin carbon) then your only option is to take it off and fit another one in the right position. The Hoyt SR is great, very forgiving, as long as you can get your centre shot. That was a problem I had with them on my SF Forged Plus, is that because the sight window is quite deep on that bow, I had to use an extra thick pad behind the arrow rest to allow me to set the centre shot correctly.
Hi,Thanks for that-have set my bow up according to this.I am a left hand shooter and my arrow has to be two arrow width to left of string to work for me. Ok am a different!
Thanks for making a video on this. I have a Hoyt Grand Prix Horizon Olympic style recurve bow with a plunger. The owners manual for my bow seems to conflict somewhat with what you suggest. Here's what the Hoyt manual says (and also how the Pro shop originally set up my bow), "Align the string down the center of the limbs and riser and check to see the position of the arrow tip relative to this line. Adjust the plunger or arrow rest until the inside edge of the arrow shaft aligns with this line." The manual makes no distinction for what kind of arrow, parallel vs. barrelled. I use the small diameter VAP 166 arrows (with a parallel shaft) and have setup my center shot according to the manual (and Pro shop) and then did some slight fine tuning with the plunger spring tension, which seems to work well for me over various distances too. How did you gain the knowledge that the arrow should be aligned perfectly centered for parallel shafts?
My understanding of this comes from tuning guides & a lot of trial and error. Most notably Jake Kaminski's tune guide. I have also talked to some of the best US shooters on this They are also some of the best in the world and this is how professional archers do it. I was originally having problems with my indoor arrows tuning until I set my parallel Easton x7's in the center of the string. Solved the problem just like the pros said.
Awesome let me know. As a side note it can vary a bit based on the the shooter and arrows. The best way to test it is to set the center shot in the center of your arrow and then do walk back tuning. Base on how your arrows line up as you walk back you adjust the center shot accordingly. Any questions just ask I am happy to help.
Here's the result: I have been using my arrow's center shot aligned to the center of the the string for 6 months now. As you suggested, it does seem to give a good center shot at any distance. Thanks!
I just got my first target bow, and am having a little trouble tuning. I'm experienced tuning wood bows, but all of these gadgets on the target bow have me slightly mixed up. What's strange is my bare shaft is flying straight and shooting right where I aim, but then when I shoot a fletched shaft, it hits right. I'm confident in my form, knowledge, and consistency. I'm a right handed shooter. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
How you doing today I was wanted to try and ask you if you could identify myou could identify my recur bow it's just a mark of Viking 51711 Thank you for your help
Question, With the parallel shaft you are saying that the tip should be center with the string? Does this apply to all parallel shafts even the small diameter ones like VAPS ?
teebat58 Yes, All parallel shafts even VAPS should be set center of string. This is a Standard starting point. The center shot can vary based on the archer and how well they have their shooting form down. For example if your shooting form is inconsistent that would cause a problem. A possibly an example is your head is not level when you shoot and its cocked to one side slightly it will move your string alignment left or right. In turn your center shot will have to go in or out to bandage the mistake of your head being not level. I hope this was helpful.
Shore Shot Archery i have question i have seen it but i am right handed there for the point of the arrow must it a littlebit to the left of must it beside of the string
how do you mean a paralle shaft so the middle of my arrow must be on the left side of the string en not the right site of the point of the arrow must on the left site of the string
In low wind a good parallel shaft is best such as the Easton A/C/E. In windier conditions the barreled shaft is best such as the Easton X10. That's about as much as I know about it!
hehe yes absolutely. ACE and X10s are far better in the wind, also faster arrows i believe to reach further distances . ACCs and ACGs are great for 60 yards or less, ACGs especially drop off at further distances than that (which make them a favorite for compound shooters as they dont need to shoot the further distances like a recurve. :)
Superb video. I am getting back into Archery and re-assesing a lot of my kit and knowledge and your videos are by far the best i have come across. Very well made and explained. Would you mind doing one or reccomending one on tying a nocking point?
Great job explaining and visualizing the center shot using the plunger. BTW, I think archery plungers are terribly designed from what I can construct viewing all this photos and poor videos. The ideal plunger should allow both depth fine control and plunger tension settings *after* the main body has been locked down at an initial depth. Otherwise there is no datum and no reference point. Set-screws over thread and notches on thread for clicks sounds like a terrible approach.
Before I listen to it the best way for any Archer looking for a store is to take a hunting tipped arrow aim up towards any city dwelling and fire, wherever it lands is how to find the new Archer store. You're welcome, however you may want a lawyer handy before doing so. Lol jk
toxy1948 Yes I want information on archery available to everyone. I use & do everything I put on my archery channel. This information has not only been tested by me but by people with Olympic medals. If something where to change about this information I would add annotations or remove the video and make a new one. But thank you for asking! =)
Your information is incorrect! The arrow should be aligned so that the inside edge of the point end of the shaft of the arrow is in line with the outside edge of the string regardless of whether the arrow is parallel or barreled. For a barreled arrow the point may or may not have to be even further outside the string to compensate for the difference in diameters at the centre and at the point. Ever heard of "archers paradox"? It works for both types of arrow so the alignment should be the same to compensate for this! You only have the arrow dead in line with the string for compound bows. Almost every other video on center shot for recurves will show to align the arrow outside the string regardless of type so are they all wrong? I know what work for me and my archers!
+roythearcher You are free to set your center shot how you like. The Olympic archers that I know and have talked to do it this way. I am sorry this video was not helpful to you.
I am a qualified coach and have always been shown and show my students the way I describe to set centre-shot! It seems to be quite effective too. I was assessed on my coaching course by a medal winning Paralympic recurve archer and he was very happy with my explanation of setting centre-shot and if it's good enough for him then it's good enough for me. But you do what works for you!....
So I feel like this have been a good discussion but I just want add clarification to this topic. Here is a direct quote on center shot by a 2 time Olympic archer 2 time silver medalist Jake Kaminski. " For a right-handed shooter, if you are shooting a barreled shaft like the Easton X10, put the arrow point to just the left side of the string". "If you are using a parallel shaft like an Easton ACC or Easton X7 Eclipse put the arrow right down the center of the string". Now this may not be true for every single arrow or archer but it is a good place to start your arrow when tuning your bow. There will be finer adjustments when you do walk back tuning. You may find you need your parallel shafts more to the left. I am just trying my best to help people with archery just like you. Hope I get a chance to meet you in the future. Happy Shooting!
i saw Jake say the same thing in that 2 hour video he posted setting up the W&W bow and asked some people about it. the people i spoke to said that it depends how good your release is; an olympian will probably be able to have the arrow straight but most of us mere mortals would probably need the arrow turned slightly outwards to compensate for the release. i guess it will vary person-to-person but you can work out whats right for you by doing a walk up test and using that to set your plunger and therefore your arrow angle.
Short and Clear ! excellent illustration . I just love your video !!!
ABSOLUTELY PERFECT. Sometimes words just aren't enough so you provided graphics to show what you mean. Wonderful job and thanks for taking the time.
Today I did this of my own I'm proud of myself thank you sir
you should do a video on how to setup the tension spring part of the plunger. huge lack of videos in that area.
Best explanation I've seen. Thanks!
Nice video. Clear instruction, easy to understand. Thank you!
Very good explanation! Thanks a lot. These kind of videos help beginners to o the basic tuning of their bows. 👍
Thanks... I did not expect to get my initial plunger installation question answered because I thought it proceeded this phase, but voila: there it is (I think!). I'm not new to shooting, just very rusty at Olympic setup. My Shubiya plunger came with no instructions and is a bit different from a Beiter. I kept wondering whether or not (or how much) of the steel, rigid/static portion on the plunger to make protrude into the strike area... thinking there would be a separate adjustment for fine-tuning centershot. But apparently not. Apparently this decision is one and the same. Screw the thing in (and lock it with the collar) to the proper depth that yeilds proper arrow centershot! Eureka, thanks man. Then, turning rear knob doesn't adjust plunger length any further, just spring tension (or maybe compression depth)...? Of course, vastly different plunger depth would be achieved with a different insert (like for a thick wooden riser). I kept suspecting I was supposed to keep the steel sleeve from protruding past the riser... that if it stuck out, the plunger wound compress and the arrow would shave itself with the steel tube that is the plunger sheath. But no. Thanks! Weird questions are hard to get answered alone, haha. You rule (below Jesus)
thank you soooo much for sharing friend! !!! You make me very happy!!!
Very clear explanation! Great!
Nice video. Next week i order my hoyt Satori, this won‘t have a plunger button but i‘ll be able to set up the center shot. I‘ll use Easton Axis Trad. Arrows (parallel shafts). This video helped me a lot and it was easy to follow thanks to the great visualisation! You got a new subscriber
Thank you for this informative video. Is finding a bow's center shot the same as setting plunger depth correctly? I'm asking because your video is the first I have come across that shows how to set up a plunger correctly (sans tension settings), which is what I was looking for but is not addressed in many videos titled something along the lines of "Setting Up a Plunger."
Fantastic, at last a great video that explains it visually and very simply
you adjust the plunger for the diameter of the shaft and then the spring to the draw. barreled or parallel only matters when in flight due to the foc balance . the plunger acts like a pivot point for the paradox
Where would be the best place to center the plunger button to on the Victory VXT to, "Fat" front of the arrow or tapered back end? Also should the point be inline with the string or slightly to the left? Thanks.
Very good video and very well explained!
Thank you 😀
Left handed barebow archer. Have always struggled with the tradition center shot advice, so this is something I'm looking forward to trying. I also wonder with regards to the 'how clean your release is' comment below, if draw and arrow weight come into play. Just wonder if heavier arrows and draws require the offset to be less (if any) ? (i.e. a heavy bow is likely to move your fingers out of the way much more than a light bow. And a heavy arrow is far more resistant to the side ways motion of coming off of the fingers..)
I've noticed discrepancies from different videos on how to set your centershot. I'm glad you pointed out that it is all because of the type of arrow being used. Thank you for the video.
Best description of CS for recurves on the internet.
great video, but i have one question. the part ( @ 1:56 ) where you talk about moving your arrow vertically by adjusting your arrow rest so that the arrow's shaft is centered with the plunger button. i figure that following your steps here is recommended because it's much easier than moving the nock point, but is there ever a time that moving the nock point is needed over doing this step or is moving the nock point taking care of a totally different issue?
I move the nocking point when I do tuning. For the initial bow setup you want the plunger button in the center of the arrow shaft.
Awesome thank you👍👍👍👍
thank you your video is very clear and precise, with great information. easy to understand even for a newb like myself.
Great tutorial man, than you very much.
Your Welcome 😀 Happy Shooting 🏹 🎯
Thank you for the video!
You're welcome 😊
Thanks man! Perfect!
Very helpful!
I assume you want to shoot from the center of the bow string? I can't find any info on finding the center of the bow string and what if the center of the bow string does not align with the arrow rest? I assume you want to adjust the arrow rest so that it supports the arrow when it is centered perfectly on the bow string.
Hope you found this video helpful and informative. Just to add clarification to a question I get a lot here is a direct quote on center shot by a 2 time Olympic archer 2 time silver medalist. " For a right-handed shooter, if you are shooting a barreled shaft like the Easton X10, put the arrow point to just the left side of the string". "If you are using a parallel shaft like an Easton ACC or Easton X7 Eclipse put the arrow right down the center of the string". Now this may not be true for every sing arrow or archer but it is a good place to start your arrow when tuning your bow. There will be finer adjustments when you do walk back tuning. You may find you need your parallel shafts more to the left.
Shore Shot Archery i have seen your video and i have a question about it am shooting with the arrow easton carbon one 400 must the point of the arrow beside the string or is that else
Since you arrow is a parallel shaft you may want to 1st try setting you center shot down the middle of the arrow. From there see how it tunes to the bow and how well it flys. You can set the center shot so that the string is on the left side of the point but you should get better performance with center shot down the middle.
If I may ask a question on the topic, how would you go about ensuring a central plunger position when using a non-adjustable arrow rest - something like the Hoyt Super Rest? In such a situation I would guess one may need to employ the arrow you plan on shooting with the plunger when seating the rest, so-doing ensuring that the rest is in the right place for the Rest-Arrow combination with plunger adjustments following from this.
You may be able to shave a little material off of the rest if it is seated too high, but there is no such quick-fix if it is too low.
I think with a Hoyt SR you have to install it in the right place for the arrows you are using. If you change to a very different arrow (say go from a big alloy arrow to a thin carbon) then your only option is to take it off and fit another one in the right position. The Hoyt SR is great, very forgiving, as long as you can get your centre shot. That was a problem I had with them on my SF Forged Plus, is that because the sight window is quite deep on that bow, I had to use an extra thick pad behind the arrow rest to allow me to set the centre shot correctly.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
Hi,Thanks for that-have set my bow up according to this.I am a left hand shooter and my arrow has to be two arrow width to left of string to work for me. Ok am a different!
Thanks for making a video on this. I have a Hoyt Grand Prix Horizon Olympic style recurve bow with a plunger. The owners manual for my bow seems to conflict somewhat with what you suggest. Here's what the Hoyt manual says (and also how the Pro shop originally set up my bow),
"Align the string down the center of
the limbs and riser and check to see the position
of the arrow tip relative to this line. Adjust the
plunger or arrow rest until the inside edge of the
arrow shaft aligns with this line."
The manual makes no distinction for what kind of arrow, parallel vs. barrelled. I use the small diameter VAP 166 arrows (with a parallel shaft) and have setup my center shot according to the manual (and Pro shop) and then did some slight fine tuning with the plunger spring tension, which seems to work well for me over various distances too.
How did you gain the knowledge that the arrow should be aligned perfectly centered for parallel shafts?
My understanding of this comes from tuning guides & a lot of trial and error. Most notably Jake Kaminski's tune guide. I have also talked to some of the best US shooters on this They are also some of the best in the world and this is how professional archers do it. I was originally having problems with my indoor arrows tuning until I set my parallel Easton x7's in the center of the string. Solved the problem just like the pros said.
Very interesting. Thanks for the fast reply! I will give "arrow-on-exact-center" alignment a try to see if there is any noticeable improvement for me.
Awesome let me know. As a side note it can vary a bit based on the the shooter and arrows. The best way to test it is to set the center shot in the center of your arrow and then do walk back tuning. Base on how your arrows line up as you walk back you adjust the center shot accordingly. Any questions just ask I am happy to help.
Shore Shot Archery
Thanks!
Here's the result: I have been using my arrow's center shot aligned to the center of the the string for 6 months now. As you suggested, it does seem to give a good center shot at any distance. Thanks!
I just got my first target bow, and am having a little trouble tuning. I'm experienced tuning wood bows, but all of these gadgets on the target bow have me slightly mixed up. What's strange is my bare shaft is flying straight and shooting right where I aim, but then when I shoot a fletched shaft, it hits right. I'm confident in my form, knowledge, and consistency. I'm a right handed shooter. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
How you doing today I was wanted to try and ask you if you could identify myou could identify my recur bow it's just a mark of Viking 51711 Thank you for your help
I have a question the point of the arrow X10 comes beside the red string of only the have of the point comes beside and i am ride hand shooter
hai
i have a question not about the video,do you now bow string dampers and maybe can you tell me wich one the best is
+adri Koster I am sorry I have not used a string dampers. I have used limb dampers from limbsaver they work well.
String dampeners will slow down your arrow. Cheers.
Question, With the parallel shaft you are saying that the tip should be center with the string? Does this apply to all parallel shafts even the small diameter ones like VAPS ?
teebat58 Yes, All parallel shafts even VAPS should be set center of string. This is a Standard starting point. The center shot can vary based on the archer and how well they have their shooting form down.
For example if your shooting form is inconsistent that would cause a problem. A possibly an example is your head is not level when you shoot and its cocked to one side slightly it will move your string alignment left or right.
In turn your center shot will have to go in or out to bandage the mistake of your head being not level. I hope this was helpful.
Very helpful, thanks.
Shore Shot Archery i have question i have seen it but i am right handed there for the point of the arrow must it a littlebit to the left of must it beside of the string
how do you mean a paralle shaft so the middle of my arrow must be on the left side of the string
en not the right site of the point of the arrow must on the left site of the string
What's the pros and cons of parallel and barreled shaft arrows?
In low wind a good parallel shaft is best such as the Easton A/C/E. In windier conditions the barreled shaft is best such as the Easton X10. That's about as much as I know about it!
A/C/E is barreled.. perhaps u mean A/C/G or A/C/C
Yeah, I, err, knew that honest. But in the interest of clarity for Windy blower (and stroking of my ego) was I on the money otherwise?
hehe yes absolutely. ACE and X10s are far better in the wind, also faster arrows i believe to reach further distances . ACCs and ACGs are great for 60 yards or less, ACGs especially drop off at further distances than that (which make them a favorite for compound shooters as they dont need to shoot the further distances like a recurve. :)
Superb video. I am getting back into Archery and re-assesing a lot of my kit and knowledge and your videos are by far the best i have come across. Very well made and explained. Would you mind doing one or reccomending one on tying a nocking point?
Thank You! That sounds like a great idea I will work on a tying a nocking point video
wich one do you have for limbsavers
I have used the LimbSaver UltraMax Dampeners before they work well.
Shore Shot Archery and how much centimeter from the riser do you place them
7.6 cm or about 3 inches from the top and bottom of the riser
Your shop site is down.
+jeffguroo1 Thanks for the heads up I will take care of it.
Tq😎👍🏹🥇🇲🇾
Great job explaining and visualizing the center shot using the plunger.
BTW, I think archery plungers are terribly designed from what I can construct viewing all this photos and poor videos.
The ideal plunger should allow both depth fine control and plunger tension settings *after* the main body has been locked down at an initial depth.
Otherwise there is no datum and no reference point.
Set-screws over thread and notches on thread for clicks sounds like a terrible approach.
Before I listen to it the best way for any Archer looking for a store is to take a hunting tipped arrow aim up towards any city dwelling and fire, wherever it lands is how to find the new Archer store. You're welcome, however you may want a lawyer handy before doing so. Lol jk
Is this information accurate?
toxy1948 Yes I want information on archery available to everyone. I use & do everything I put on my archery channel. This information has not only been tested by me but by people with Olympic medals. If something where to change about this information I would add annotations or remove the video and make a new one. But thank you for asking! =)
Your information is incorrect! The arrow should be aligned so that the inside edge of the point end of the shaft of the arrow is in line with the outside edge of the string regardless of whether the arrow is parallel or barreled.
For a barreled arrow the point may or may not have to be even further outside the string to compensate for the difference in diameters at the centre and at the point.
Ever heard of "archers paradox"? It works for both types of arrow so the alignment should be the same to compensate for this!
You only have the arrow dead in line with the string for compound bows.
Almost every other video on center shot for recurves will show to align the arrow outside the string regardless of type so are they all wrong? I know what work for me and my archers!
+roythearcher You are free to set your center shot how you like. The Olympic archers that I know and have talked to do it this way. I am sorry this video was not helpful to you.
I am a qualified coach and have always been shown and show my students the way I describe to set centre-shot! It seems to be quite effective too. I was assessed on my coaching course by a medal winning Paralympic recurve archer and he was very happy with my explanation of setting centre-shot and if it's good enough for him then it's good enough for me.
But you do what works for you!....
So I feel like this have been a good discussion but I just want add clarification to this topic. Here is a direct quote on center shot by a 2 time Olympic archer 2 time silver medalist Jake Kaminski. " For a right-handed shooter, if you are shooting a barreled shaft like the Easton X10, put the arrow point to just the left side of the string". "If you are using a parallel shaft like an Easton ACC or Easton X7 Eclipse put the arrow right down the center of the string". Now this may not be true for every single arrow or archer but it is a good place to start your arrow when tuning your bow. There will be finer adjustments when you do walk back tuning. You may find you need your parallel shafts more to the left. I am just trying my best to help people with archery just like you. Hope I get a chance to meet you in the future. Happy Shooting!
i saw Jake say the same thing in that 2 hour video he posted setting up the W&W bow and asked some people about it. the people i spoke to said that it depends how good your release is; an olympian will probably be able to have the arrow straight but most of us mere mortals would probably need the arrow turned slightly outwards to compensate for the release. i guess it will vary person-to-person but you can work out whats right for you by doing a walk up test and using that to set your plunger and therefore your arrow angle.
The archer paradox does NOT exist in center shot bows and his explanation is spot on.....
*bow's center shot