3:00 if you connect the amplifier and the tone corrector with the same gnd nothing will happen because on both boards the power and audio ground is the same, it will only make a hissing noise in the bluetooth receiver, usually the ones from qualcomm are the ones that give problems if not isolate because the audio output is differential. this hiss shown in the video can be external interference, try to use a 4700uf capacitor on the 12v track and don't forget that if you don't use a symmetric source for the ton corrector it will distort everything and it has to be + and - 15v
A good cat is very wonderful! I think that the cat is doing the job "quality manager. But in general, I liked the job of assembling the amplifier. Bravo !!
Nice little project. Good job on making the case. Look s professional. Too much bass??? NEVER!!!! Cute kitty. You should know they love to knock things off tables. LOL
Use a TPA3116 2.1 Digital Subwoofer Audio Amplifier it has bass, treble and volume control plus comes with an aux port and pre soldered speaker output connector, I recommend you soldering on a different speaker terminal connector because screw lock connectors take a lot of time to wire. It also has a subwoofer output too. Try using it…
Hello I built the same amp but I also used a preamp to avoid the noise you can use B0505S 2w or B1212S 2w. The first two numbers are the input voltage and the next two numbers are the output. This isolates the input so you can power both the pre and the amp with the same power. I used a AD828 preamp module and the same pasive tone control as you.
So simple and small but powerful!!! i will be making it next week, i also have an idea how to get rid of that sound that it makes when you turn it off, by turning the power switch to cut both the power and the ground from the speakers ground. maybe i'm wrong, just a beginner's idea haha. keep up the good work brother..
in that case I suggest you use a 3 pole switch, so you can disconnect the power and both positive outputs. if you disconnect only the ground, the speakers will remain connected in series between the 2 positive outputs.
@@Sorin_DIY Thank you so much for the advice, i already ordered the parts and made a wooden enclosure, i added a fan and i also ordered 2 amplifier circuits to see if i can use them both in parallel for more power. i will also add a bluetooth receiver that will be connected to the sound input and will be turned off/on with a switch in the front. also thinking about adding a battery pack to it. Just experimenting haha, you made me addicted!!!!!.
Sehr sauber ge arbeitet. Ich habe nur einen Einwand : Das Aluminiumkühlblech hätte ich nicht auf den PVC-Boden geklebt. Schlechter Kühl-Wirkungsgrad und mit der Zeit wird sich der PVC-BODEN an dieser Stelle verândern.
Thats all nice and all but its just connecting a few modules together. If you want something more advanced i can recommend the TDA series amplifiers (TDA2009 is perfect - wide range of supply voltage and only needs a few additional resistors and capacitors around)
i would recommend tda7297,ofc it doesnt have efficiency level of class d amp but sound quality is far better than class d. i am using tda7297 with 8ohm 60watt speakers and tweeters(stereo) and sound quality is far better than pam8610 or tpa3116d2.
Awesome project ... aided by your furry assistant 😀. I don’t think I would be brave enough to make a box before building the gear but I think you made a very good job of it. Also you might want to have a look at the trick to clean up the edges of cut Perspex using a small flame ... although I’m told it takes a bit of practice. Keep up the great work 😀👍
yes, it will work. but this option has some limitations. the max current is low, the efficiency is low, it gets very hot and it needs a dummy load constantly connected to the output, because it always needs a load connected with a minimum/maximum current consumption, otherwise it doesn't work correctly. for the B1212s the exact current consumption must be between 9mA - 84mA.
I am new to amplifier area, after watching your videos, first I did is using PAM8403 to fix a 5v lousy speakers by replaced the cheap amp inside, result is very satisfy the sound is much much better than original speakers, before that the speakers after bought is placed under bedsheet. After that I went to PAM8610 to make any radio amplifier with high expectancy to it , result is very bad especially the hissing noise and switch on pop sound. Before that I have read some comments pointed this amp have annoying rf noise, I still go for it give it a try. Result is disappointed, the hiss noise is very annoying than poor radio reception noise, conclusion PAM8403 is very good, PAM8610 is a trash, can't be used. Next better stick to AB amplifier like TDA7377 for my next project. Later found out almost every class D have rf hissing sound, should mention in the video the hiss sound, let people know the actual pron' and cons performance. Lucky the PAM8403 still a good product and cheap, maybe because it is low voltage so the rf sound is barely noticeable. 😃 * I already use B0505s-1w to isolated between the radio mp3 decoder with the amp, and 50k potentiometer between audio signal, connect to PAM8403 result is great, but PAM8610 really terrible. 😃 * Or maybe mine one is broken, since it is cheap.
Thanks for the comment. I used a few amplifier boards with PAM8610 and yes it has a background noise. But I finished the projects, because these amplifier boards are very cheap and they require a lower voltage than other boards. with 12V they sound pretty loud. I already bought other amplifier boards with TPA3118 and TPA3116 for future projects, but I didn't have time for them.
And another idea about the clicking noise when power off at 9:20 I think is because you added the 4700uF capacitor at power supply, it is too big. At PAM8610 datasheet it stated only need 1uf & 10uf I believe is already include at the board pcb. Try to remove it and let me/us know the answer if the result is good. I found this at the LM4871MM datasheet: " Selection Of Input Capacitor Size Large input capacitors are both expensive and space hungry for portable designs. Clearly, a certain sized capacitor is needed to couple in low frequencies without severe attenuation. But in many cases the speakers used in portable systems, whether internal or external, have little ability to reproduce signals below 100Hz to 150Hz. Thus, using a large input capacitor may not increase actual system performance. In addition to system cost and size, click and pop performance is effected by the size of the input coupling capacitor, Ci. A larger input coupling capacitor requires more charge to reach its quiescent DC voltage (nominally 1/2 VDD). This charge comes from the output via the feedback and is apt to create pops upon device enable. Thus, by minimizing the capacitor size based on necessary low frequency response, turn-on pops can be minimized. Besides minimizing the input capacitor size, careful consideration should be paid to the bypass capacitor value. Bypass capacitor, CB, is the most critical component to minimize turn-on pops since it determines how fast the LM4871 turns on. The slower the LM4871's outputs ramp to their quiescent DC voltage (nominally 1/2 VDD), the smaller the turn-on pop. Choosing CB equal to 1.0μF along with a small value of Ci (in the range of 0.1μF to 0.39μF), should produce a virtually clickless and popless shutdown function. While the device will function properly, (no oscillations or motorboating), with CB equal to 0.1μF, the device will be much more susceptible to turn-on clicks and pops. Thus, a value of CB equal to 1.0μF is recommended in all but the most cost sensitive designs." and this at PAM8610 datasheet: "Power Supply Decoupling, C The PAM8610 is a high-performance CMOS audio amplifier that requires adequate power supply decoupling to ensure the output total harmonic distortion (THD) as low as possible. Power supply decoupling also prevents oscillations caused by long lead between the amplifier and the speaker. The optimum decoupling is achieved by using two capacitors of different types that target different types of noise on the power supply leads. For higher frequency transients, spikes, or digital hash on the line, a good low equivalent-seriesresistance (ESR) ceramic capacitor, typically 1μF, is recommended, placing as close as possible to the device’s VCC lead. To filter lower-frequency noises, a large aluminum electrolytic capacitor of 10μF or greater is recommended, placing near the audio power amplifier. The 10μF capacitor also serves as a local storage capacitor for supplying current during large signal transients on the amplifier outputs."
Just want to make correction as I am still learning about amplifier. The above mentioned Input Capacitor is the audio input capacitor not the power supply decoupling, I get mixed up. Two are different capacitor.
The PAM610 board have a SW switch to turn off/put stand-by for the amp, I think it can disable the pooping sound when turn off. Give it a try and let me know the answer. The datasheet stated: " PIN 25 MUTE A logic high on this pin disables the outputs and a logic low enables the outputs.". So if you close the SW pin, it will put in into mute/standby, then afterthat switch off the main power, should be afterthat no popping sound. Or maybe the SW is "PIN29 SD Shutdown signal for IC (low= shutdown, high =operational). TTL logic levels withcompliance to VCC." Let me know the result ya
i know its a silly question, i´m learning, to add the led diode you need the resistor to cut down the current, right? But wont that limit the current used by the amplifier, or is it irrelevant? Thank you!
i think i found out, i thought it was connected in serial, but looking at the schematic i noticed its connected in parallel, so the current is independent. Thanks anyway, i will leave this comment to may help others.
If you haven't already, please consider an amp much like this one, but with dual speaker outputs, a radio and micro SD card reader for MP3 files. No Bluetooth. Small, electronic build videos like this are my favorite. Thank you.
@@Sorin_DIYbrother i have also bought this same bass treble tone controller....but installing this tone controller in my amplifier board the output volume is coming too much low .....what should I do brother.🙁
this is a passive tone corrector, it doesn't have a power input. so it cannot increase the bass. it decreases all the other sounds, except the bass, it gives you the impression that the bass is louder, but actually the overall sound is lower. you need a powerful amplifier to compensate for the audio loss.
@@Sorin_DIY yes brother....if I use a another passive tone correcter......i would have to give a power input .But the problem is if I use same power input on amplifier and the tone corrector then humming sound is comming.....
Sorin plz help I'm also using the Xh m802 tone board but it is giving low volume and bass compared to without using it How can i solvs this problem plz help I'm using tpa3110 stereo amplifier and giving 12v supply
is normal for the audio volume to be lower on the output, but it should have bass. try using it with a different amplifier. and check with a multimeter if the ground wires are connected correctly everywhere.
Wasn't enough I got into 18650's, now you got me into audio amplifiers too!
3:00 if you connect the amplifier and the tone corrector with the same gnd nothing will happen because on both boards the power and audio ground is the same, it will only make a hissing noise in the bluetooth receiver, usually the ones from qualcomm are the ones that give problems if not isolate because the audio output is differential. this hiss shown in the video can be external interference, try to use a 4700uf capacitor on the 12v track and don't forget that if you don't use a symmetric source for the ton corrector it will distort everything and it has to be + and - 15v
Thanks Sorin, good to see you when you work.
Glad I found your channel while searching for DIY 18650 power bank, and that you are from Romania too :)
You explain everything very well 😍
A good cat is very wonderful! I think that the cat is doing the job "quality manager. But in general, I liked the job of assembling the amplifier. Bravo !!
You are back after a long wait. Liked the video. Can you make a project of a micro amplifier for mobile phones earphones , headphones 🎧
Nice little project. Good job on making the case. Look s professional. Too much bass??? NEVER!!!! Cute kitty. You should know they love to knock things off tables. LOL
DIY Super start Kitty at it again 😀👍 .. Thanks for hosting her Sorin
After long waiting, your back 😁
Use a TPA3116 2.1 Digital Subwoofer Audio Amplifier it has bass, treble and volume control plus comes with an aux port and pre soldered speaker output connector, I recommend you soldering on a different speaker terminal connector because screw lock connectors take a lot of time to wire. It also has a subwoofer output too. Try using it…
Would you happen to know if i can get one similar 2x 50w with a low pre amplifier - subwoofer output?
Hello I built the same amp but I also used a preamp to avoid the noise you can use B0505S 2w or B1212S 2w. The first two numbers are the input voltage and the next two numbers are the output. This isolates the input so you can power both the pre and the amp with the same power. I used a AD828 preamp module and the same pasive tone control as you.
Welcome back!
So simple and small but powerful!!! i will be making it next week, i also have an idea how to get rid of that sound that it makes when you turn it off, by turning the power switch to cut both the power and the ground from the speakers ground. maybe i'm wrong, just a beginner's idea haha. keep up the good work brother..
in that case I suggest you use a 3 pole switch, so you can disconnect the power and both positive outputs. if you disconnect only the ground, the speakers will remain connected in series between the 2 positive outputs.
@@Sorin_DIY Thank you so much for the advice, i already ordered the parts and made a wooden enclosure, i added a fan and i also ordered 2 amplifier circuits to see if i can use them both in parallel for more power. i will also add a bluetooth receiver that will be connected to the sound input and will be turned off/on with a switch in the front. also thinking about adding a battery pack to it. Just experimenting haha, you made me addicted!!!!!.
Always appriciate his work
WOW ! It has super bass, love it!
Sehr sauber ge arbeitet. Ich habe nur einen Einwand : Das Aluminiumkühlblech hätte ich nicht auf den PVC-Boden geklebt. Schlechter Kühl-Wirkungsgrad und mit der Zeit wird sich der PVC-BODEN an dieser Stelle verândern.
Omggg hii Im a big fan since 2019. Ps your assistant is very cute
I just love your cat
Pam 8610 is indeed a good amplifier, 6 inch speakers can shake the chest
That's what I want
Congratulations on 100k subs
Excellent video, practical and useful proyect !!! Very good video, as all the videos of your channel, keep up the good work!
Cool project. Thanks for sharing it!
Love from Bangladesh ❤️
If you want to use active tone control and amp with single power supply, you should consider using B1212s module. It should fix the noise.IMHO
You should try the Tpa3110 Bluetooth amplifier with green Pcb make sure the model is SANWU because it's the real one. Man it's just perfect 👌.
Awesome. Great video. Sounds very good
Thats all nice and all but its just connecting a few modules together. If you want something more advanced i can recommend the TDA series amplifiers (TDA2009 is perfect - wide range of supply voltage and only needs a few additional resistors and capacitors around)
hi. I will make better audio amplifiers and bluetooth speakers, but I wanted to start from the bottom :)
@@Sorin_DIY Good to hear, will be looking forward for a the new videos :)
Nice job, Dude!
i would recommend tda7297,ofc it doesnt have efficiency level of class d amp but sound quality is far better than class d.
i am using tda7297 with 8ohm 60watt speakers and tweeters(stereo) and sound quality is far better than pam8610 or tpa3116d2.
i recommend u the XY-p15w board, it has bluetooth and dont have that poop noise when turn on
Awesome project ... aided by your furry assistant 😀. I don’t think I would be brave enough to make a box before building the gear but I think you made a very good job of it. Also you might want to have a look at the trick to clean up the edges of cut Perspex using a small flame ... although I’m told it takes a bit of practice. Keep up the great work 😀👍
Nice project
modulele alea au un zgomot de fond teribil!
Nice looking project.
Nice work !
Very nice looking . Would a small fan be an use I wonder? . The cctv machines have tiny little fans that would fit.
this amplifier board is very efficient, it doesn't produce too much heat. a fan will be useful only if you use the amplifier for a 2x15W output.
Your can use a B1212s voltage isolator it'll the isolate the amp and the preamp power source making a separate ground and positive line
yes, it will work. but this option has some limitations. the max current is low, the efficiency is low, it gets very hot and it needs a dummy load constantly connected to the output, because it always needs a load connected with a minimum/maximum current consumption, otherwise it doesn't work correctly. for the B1212s the exact current consumption must be between 9mA - 84mA.
@@Sorin_DIY how about connecting multiple in parallel to increase its current capability?
Perfect video. Thank you
I love it, thanks for the video
I am new to amplifier area, after watching your videos, first I did is using PAM8403 to fix a 5v lousy speakers by replaced the cheap amp inside, result is very satisfy the sound is much much better than original speakers, before that the speakers after bought is placed under bedsheet.
After that I went to PAM8610 to make any radio amplifier with high expectancy to it , result is very bad especially the hissing noise and switch on pop sound. Before that I have read some comments pointed this amp have annoying rf noise, I still go for it give it a try. Result is disappointed, the hiss noise is very annoying than poor radio reception noise, conclusion PAM8403 is very good, PAM8610 is a trash, can't be used. Next better stick to AB amplifier like TDA7377 for my next project. Later found out almost every class D have rf hissing sound, should mention in the video the hiss sound, let people know the actual pron' and cons performance. Lucky the PAM8403 still a good product and cheap, maybe because it is low voltage so the rf sound is barely noticeable. 😃
* I already use B0505s-1w to isolated between the radio mp3 decoder with the amp, and 50k potentiometer between audio signal, connect to PAM8403 result is great, but PAM8610 really terrible. 😃
* Or maybe mine one is broken, since it is cheap.
Thanks for the comment. I used a few amplifier boards with PAM8610 and yes it has a background noise. But I finished the projects, because these amplifier boards are very cheap and they require a lower voltage than other boards. with 12V they sound pretty loud.
I already bought other amplifier boards with TPA3118 and TPA3116 for future projects, but I didn't have time for them.
And another idea about the clicking noise when power off at 9:20 I think is because you added the 4700uF capacitor at power supply, it is too big. At PAM8610 datasheet it stated only need 1uf & 10uf I believe is already include at the board pcb. Try to remove it and let me/us know the answer if the result is good.
I found this at the LM4871MM datasheet:
" Selection Of Input Capacitor Size
Large input capacitors are both expensive and space hungry for portable designs. Clearly, a certain sized
capacitor is needed to couple in low frequencies without severe attenuation. But in many cases the speakers
used in portable systems, whether internal or external, have little ability to reproduce signals below 100Hz to
150Hz. Thus, using a large input capacitor may not increase actual system performance.
In addition to system cost and size, click and pop performance is effected by the size of the input coupling
capacitor, Ci. A larger input coupling capacitor requires more charge to reach its quiescent DC voltage (nominally
1/2 VDD). This charge comes from the output via the feedback and is apt to create pops upon device enable.
Thus, by minimizing the capacitor size based on necessary low frequency response, turn-on pops can be
minimized.
Besides minimizing the input capacitor size, careful consideration should be paid to the bypass capacitor value.
Bypass capacitor, CB, is the most critical component to minimize turn-on pops since it determines how fast the
LM4871 turns on. The slower the LM4871's outputs ramp to their quiescent DC voltage (nominally 1/2 VDD), the
smaller the turn-on pop. Choosing CB equal to 1.0μF along with a small value of Ci (in the range of 0.1μF to
0.39μF), should produce a virtually clickless and popless shutdown function. While the device will function
properly, (no oscillations or motorboating), with CB equal to 0.1μF, the device will be much more susceptible to
turn-on clicks and pops. Thus, a value of CB equal to 1.0μF is recommended in all but the most cost sensitive
designs."
and this at PAM8610 datasheet:
"Power Supply Decoupling, C
The PAM8610 is a high-performance CMOS audio amplifier that requires adequate power supply decoupling to ensure the output total harmonic distortion (THD) as low as possible. Power supply decoupling also prevents oscillations caused by long lead between the amplifier and the speaker. The optimum decoupling is achieved by using two capacitors of different types that target different types of noise on the power supply leads. For higher frequency transients, spikes, or digital hash on the line, a good low equivalent-seriesresistance (ESR) ceramic capacitor, typically 1μF, is recommended, placing as close as possible to the device’s VCC lead. To filter lower-frequency noises, a large aluminum electrolytic capacitor of 10μF or greater is recommended, placing near the audio power amplifier. The 10μF capacitor also serves as a local storage capacitor for supplying current during large signal transients on the amplifier outputs."
Just want to make correction as I am still learning about amplifier. The above mentioned Input Capacitor is the audio input capacitor not the power supply decoupling, I get mixed up. Two are different capacitor.
You should try diy 2.1 amplifier
Super video!
Put a relay at the speakers to shut them off when you power off the amplifier. Then you will not hear the noise.
Very good project now you used Tpa3116d2 amplifier with bass treble circuit. I m from Pakistan Karachi
Ay I say brilliently put together. The tone corrector is to my interest.an info
Thks
i made the same amplifier but i bought it with a tone corrector built in.
Ic stick which thermal paste used to tell me bro🙏🙏
The PAM610 board have a SW switch to turn off/put stand-by for the amp, I think it can disable the pooping sound when turn off. Give it a try and let me know the answer. The datasheet stated: " PIN 25 MUTE A logic high on this pin disables the outputs and a logic low enables the outputs.". So if you close the SW pin, it will put in into mute/standby, then afterthat switch off the main power, should be afterthat no popping sound.
Or maybe the SW is "PIN29 SD Shutdown signal for IC (low= shutdown, high =operational). TTL logic levels withcompliance to VCC."
Let me know the result ya
Yes that will probably work. I will test it next time I use a PAM8610
Hey, just curious, can RF Amplifiers support RDS on FM transmitting?
no
i know its a silly question, i´m learning, to add the led diode you need the resistor to cut down the current, right? But wont that limit the current used by the amplifier, or is it irrelevant? Thank you!
i think i found out, i thought it was connected in serial, but looking at the schematic i noticed its connected in parallel, so the current is independent. Thanks anyway, i will leave this comment to may help others.
The resistor is connected in series only with the LED, not the amplifier board.
If you haven't already, please consider an amp much like this one, but with dual speaker outputs, a radio and micro SD card reader for MP3 files. No Bluetooth. Small, electronic build videos like this are my favorite. Thank you.
SALUT cu RESPECT🙋♂️
Este de vanzare acest amp? Ma intereseaza
salut. nu.
Brother can I use a 4700uf 25v capacitor instead of 4700uf 16v capacitor to keep the power stable when the bass drops..?
Please reply...
Yes.
@@Sorin_DIYbrother i have also bought this same bass treble tone controller....but installing this tone controller in my amplifier board the output volume is coming too much low .....what should I do brother.🙁
this is a passive tone corrector, it doesn't have a power input. so it cannot increase the bass. it decreases all the other sounds, except the bass, it gives you the impression that the bass is louder, but actually the overall sound is lower. you need a powerful amplifier to compensate for the audio loss.
@@Sorin_DIY yes brother....if I use a another passive tone correcter......i would have to give a power input .But the problem is if I use same power input on amplifier and the tone corrector then humming sound is comming.....
Make video on repairing of commputer power supply specially input and output short circuit🙏🙏
Ang Ganda ng tunog Sir
Sorin I want surround sound producing amplifier Board, the one you used only stereo
The volume is too low when using this kind of passive tone controller. Any idea how to mode the this type of controller?
I don't think it can be modified. You can add a preamplifier board after this tone corrector.
Sorin plz help
I'm also using the Xh m802 tone board but it is giving low volume and bass compared to without using it
How can i solvs this problem plz help
I'm using tpa3110 stereo amplifier and giving 12v supply
is normal for the audio volume to be lower on the output, but it should have bass. try using it with a different amplifier. and check with a multimeter if the ground wires are connected correctly everywhere.
Wow amazing
Nice idea
i might just have to build one of these
Is there an amp that you can run from batteries?
I made several videos with portable speakers, you can find them on my channel.
Is there a way to add mic input?
it needs a microphone preamplifier.
Cum pot lua legatura cu tine sa vb despre niste proiecte personale si daca ai bunavointa sa ma ajuti.
Multumesc.
putem sa vorbim pe chatul de pe Patreon sau pe email.
Un EMAIL TE ROG.
sorin.electrical.nerd@gmail.com
i'm look at making a 2x 50w output with low subwoofer output for my subwoofer amp
Glad you came back :) , but why did you go with the absolute worst amplifier available? There are much better ones , heck even smaller in size. :)
I appreciate you attention to racial diversity.
Can i use tpa3110 amp module??
yes
@@Sorin_DIY thanks
Can you do a Bluetooth one?
yes
@@Sorin_DIY thanks, I want to see your next build ♥️
Bro my pam8610 led blinks but their is no sound in the speaker.. Plz help broo.. anyone who know the answer plz reply🙏
capacitorul pentru ce este?
sa mentina tensiunea stabila, atunci cand amplificatorul trage mult curent, in caz ca alimentatorul nu face fata.
Where the applications and advantages and efficiency
is it for sale
Wow 👌😍
U should use 3110
Your are very amazing
the volume potentiometer is african-american, not black :))
Correct, even if Haitian.
Hi mate. Are you at Ukraine?
no
@@Sorin_DIY you are from Romania not Ukraine.... ☘️☘️☘️☘️
@@kimo4646 Ssshhhhh! Don't tell him!
😻
I have 240W amplifier
Good job
But this amp is very weak if i were you i use more powerfull class d amp like tpa3116
For those speaker that you use these amp is to small🤔
Opppppp
Bom dia parabens
🐱🐱🥰🥰🥰
Hi sorin
I want to join your patron but my currency is rupees so can you help me join your patron
Thank you
Hi. you should be able to join my Patreon page with your card, your bank should automatically make the conversion to USD.
I think you need a new assistant - the current one does not seem too helpful.
, ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Hi at last your bank
5 th
Racial diversity 😂
😍