Excellent information in your video. I paint plastic models and always finish them with varnish. Your emphasis of several light coats is right on target with my experience. Thank you.
Thanks! I bet thin coats for models is VERY important since the surface on some of them is so incredibly smooth. I'm always impressed by the work on see from model painters. some of it is just incredible!
Great info Mark! Have varnished over wicked painting, lightly scuff with Scotch brite pad for better adhesion. I have also purposely done crackle finish on cabinets. That was the thing back in mid 2000s. Thanks for showing everyone how to protect and create crackle on a painting! 👊🏽👍🏽✌🏽have a great weekend!!
Thanks JC- Yes, that crackle finish sure was a thing!! I remember it as well. Funny how things come into fashion and then back out- like the good old popcorn ceilings 🤣Have a great weekend as well!
thanks Jaun! Yes, I should have mentioned that in the video. I always forget to add something!! For varnishing I use a 6 gallon california air compressor that has wheels so I can roll it outside
Thanks for this info, Mark! I’ve been using the spray can matte fixative from Blick for the last year as it’s much more affordable. Do you think that’s sufficient or is the heavy duty w400 method essential.
Thanks Ryland! I used that stuff a bunch of times on my graphite drawings, but haven't tried it on paintings. I used to love the winsor and newton fixative. Are you using one from a spray can? Send me a link for it if you can and I'll check it out.
Love your channel! I feel like I'm not getting enough control from my Eclipse. I was wondering what you thought of soft spring modifications, and if you have any experience with those? Thanks!
Thanks! I'm strongly against modifying any of my higher end airbrushes (iwata, h&S, badger, etc.) For the cheap airbrushes (sub $30) it can be fun to mess around and try out different things. But for an iwata like the eclipse or micron, I never recommend changing out any of the parts that come with with the airbrush for 3rd party ones. The reason being is that the engineers at these brands a very smart and know exactly what they are doing. They designed the airbrush to work properly and extensively tested the design to ensure it performs the way it should. My eclipse is all factory parts and one of the most responsive airbrushes I've ever used. Just my opinion, but I wouldn't mess with any modifications.
Interesting video💜👍😊 Light coats first seems the best way on models too. Varnishes and I have a love/hate relationship. I have no go to varnish for my models. Circumstances, remixing of the products by manufacturers etc, make the task a moving feast😲💔🤬
I have that same love/hate relationship with varnish too. I'd imagine it's much more difficult on models because of that smooth finish and small details. It's important to protect the work though
@@theartworkshop It is important to protect them from handling - especially if using other mediums such as weathering powders (very tricky to seal with varnish) and if one has a garden railway. After hours of work; building, modifying, detailing, painting, decals, weathering, getting to the varnish/lacquer stage is always a fraught time🤔🤞🙏🙏✌️
@@theartworkshop Or sometimes, if waiting for parts, research etc, or a complex model, years of work - and the closer to completion the higher the risk/stakes😲🙏🙏 Thanks for a great channel, with great, unbiased advice. One day I hope to get back to my aviation art - and try it with my airbrushes 💜🤞✌️😊👍💜
👍you got the big guns out nice one the iwata you have is a lovely spray gun for applying clear
haha weather is nice so suns out, spray guns out!! I agree the pattern on this thing is perfect. I love the 400
@@theartworkshop I had one and sold it wish I never did now brilliant gun will have to give the liquitex gloss a go on some artwork looks really nice
Excellent information in your video. I paint plastic models and always finish them with varnish. Your emphasis of several light coats is right on target with my experience. Thank you.
Thanks! I bet thin coats for models is VERY important since the surface on some of them is so incredibly smooth. I'm always impressed by the work on see from model painters. some of it is just incredible!
Great info Mark! Have varnished over wicked painting, lightly scuff with Scotch brite pad for better adhesion. I have also purposely done crackle finish on cabinets. That was the thing back in mid 2000s. Thanks for showing everyone how to protect and create crackle on a painting! 👊🏽👍🏽✌🏽have a great weekend!!
Thanks JC- Yes, that crackle finish sure was a thing!! I remember it as well. Funny how things come into fashion and then back out- like the good old popcorn ceilings 🤣Have a great weekend as well!
@@theartworkshop 💯 😂😂🤓👊🏽✌🏽👍🏽
Appreciate the tutorial! definitely a video I'll be re-watching frequently.
glad to hear that- thanks!
Much appreciated Mark!! I feel like this one was for me. Thank you much!
You're most welcome! I'm glad it's helpful. Thanks so much Kirk!
Great info! I had the privilege of learning this the hard way. 🥴
haha oh yeah, me too. I ruined quite a few paintings in the past applying too much varnish too quickly. It's brutal
Important information, thanks for sharing your expertise.
thanks Louis!
Great! very useful info. Do you need a different compressor for the HLPV gun?
thanks Jaun! Yes, I should have mentioned that in the video. I always forget to add something!! For varnishing I use a 6 gallon california air compressor that has wheels so I can roll it outside
Nice work
thanks!
Thanks for this info, Mark! I’ve been using the spray can matte fixative from Blick for the last year as it’s much more affordable. Do you think that’s sufficient or is the heavy duty w400 method essential.
Thanks Ryland! I used that stuff a bunch of times on my graphite drawings, but haven't tried it on paintings. I used to love the winsor and newton fixative. Are you using one from a spray can? Send me a link for it if you can and I'll check it out.
Hope you ll review the SPARMAX FLYER-SR2 when it's out worldwide, as I plan to use it mainly for varnish purpose.
I'll have to check it out- thanks!
👍👍👍👍👍
thanks mag! have a great weekend
Thanks!
Blu! You are too generous- thank you so much!! I'll be personally thanking you for all of this at the end of this weeks video. I really appreciate it.
Love your channel!
I feel like I'm not getting enough control from my Eclipse. I was wondering what you thought of soft spring modifications, and if you have any experience with those?
Thanks!
Thanks! I'm strongly against modifying any of my higher end airbrushes (iwata, h&S, badger, etc.) For the cheap airbrushes (sub $30) it can be fun to mess around and try out different things. But for an iwata like the eclipse or micron, I never recommend changing out any of the parts that come with with the airbrush for 3rd party ones. The reason being is that the engineers at these brands a very smart and know exactly what they are doing. They designed the airbrush to work properly and extensively tested the design to ensure it performs the way it should. My eclipse is all factory parts and one of the most responsive airbrushes I've ever used. Just my opinion, but I wouldn't mess with any modifications.
@@theartworkshop You're probably right! Thank you!
i like to use 2k automotive clear works very well with createx, as the liquitex varnish way to expensive in my country
Yeah I agree, some of these varnishes can get pretty expensive.
Interesting video💜👍😊
Light coats first seems the best way on models too.
Varnishes and I have a love/hate relationship. I have no go to varnish for my models. Circumstances, remixing of the products by manufacturers etc, make the task a moving feast😲💔🤬
I have that same love/hate relationship with varnish too. I'd imagine it's much more difficult on models because of that smooth finish and small details. It's important to protect the work though
@@theartworkshop It is important to protect them from handling - especially if using other mediums such as weathering powders (very tricky to seal with varnish) and if one has a garden railway. After hours of work; building, modifying, detailing, painting, decals, weathering, getting to the varnish/lacquer stage is always a fraught time🤔🤞🙏🙏✌️
@@musoseven8218 no question about it. With some of the models I've seen it looks like months of work! Protecting it is worth the effort
@@theartworkshop Or sometimes, if waiting for parts, research etc, or a complex model, years of work - and the closer to completion the higher the risk/stakes😲🙏🙏
Thanks for a great channel, with great, unbiased advice.
One day I hope to get back to my aviation art - and try it with my airbrushes 💜🤞✌️😊👍💜
Can I spray the varnish with my airbrush with the same results it will just take longer?
you can, but it works best with a larger nozzle size like .5 or .7. The UVLS clear by createx works amazingly well in an airbrush.
@@theartworkshop I only have a .2 is that ok? Also how does the create hold up to K2 from a spray can?
I have beautiful videos that I would like to watch❤