Seized pins and rollers. No big issue. If you ever do another dozer that's sat awhile, a trick my pap used to use was a good doucheing of the track pins and rollers with used motor oil before even trying to start... by the time it busts off it had soaked in plenty. Kinda polluting though if you're not careful. Also....next time just crack all 4 injectors....lol
Right behind your left heel is a valve with the knob off of it with a round rod guard around it below thee seat. THAT valve is a declutch valve that you can move so that the particular track you're mashing the brake pedal will release so you can pedal steer the machine but will stay disengaged until you let up on the pedal. I always ran the 450's with that turned off so when I went to stop the track clutch would stay engaged and would stop the machine if both hi/lo levers were in high or low. You can turn the machine with one in high and the other in low 0r just put one in neutral and maybe use a brake. You need to know more just let me know. I ran one just like that, an 850 and an 1150. A Case is a Case and some are 4-letter words, just like Mack!
The lever down on the inside of your left foot is high and low range. On mine you can only get it in gear with the engine off. Forward is low. Back is high and just for grading very loose, dry material on flat ground. As in no power. At least on mine. Which is a 450. No letter designation. The breaks on mine are dry disc and notorious for wearing out. I have actually removed the pedals to make room for my big feet. The dozer holds itself back on hills as long as the engine is running. If you keep the blade pointed down hill, which will also put gravity on your side for pushing, and the engine dies just drop the blade and it will dig in and stop you. If you are pointing up hill and the engine dies, the blade will slide on top of the ground and you are along for the ride. In seven years my breaks have never worked and I have only taken a few little roller coaster rides but I always have it in the back of my mind that someday I might have to just jump and stand there and wave goodbye.
@@dieseJL As I said, mine is a straight 450 with no letter. It might have changed on latter models. And I can't swear that I haven't been running mine in the wrong gear for years. But mine didn't seem to have any power at all in the rear location.
Nice job there fella's! The lower lever on the floor is Hi/Lo range back for low, forward for Hi. The L/R tower levers are Hi/Lo track drive Forward= Hi Back= Low Left brake was stuck because it turned loose in Rev. , Classic symptom for that brake system. When peddle is depressed it release the clutch for that side and applies the brake. That's the click you hear in the Trans. when applying the brake. The brakes are for piviot steering the track HI/Lo levers make gradual power turns. TGP
@@dieseJL Correct 2 speed lever back for low range Means tower track levers in low = first gear. tower levers in high =3rd gear Shift two speed forward for High range, means tower levers now will be Low=2nd gear and High =4th gear. Never shift two speed lever moving, always stopped, and best to shut off engine, so it doesn't grind. TGP
Great work guys! I have spent many hours operating a 450C. The controls were the same. Personally I love the two speed track. You will learn to steer with that system very quickly. Don't ever use the brakes. First of all they are useless, second they fail very quickly, third they provide very little advantage over a change in direction. Did I mention they're useless? Anyhow, enjoy your Case as I did. Also I believe your chain was rusted/ seized into a flat line on the bottom. Finally got some pins and bushings to wake up with force. Good luck.
Think that is pretty awesome you are not afraid to throw down a challenge with that injection pump. I did the same thing with an automatic transmission and it feels good in the end that you didn't give up. Pretty cool too that you are out there to help the other guy that is struggling to figure something out.
These old diesels are notoriously hard to prime if air gets in system. I've seen guys use a new style lift pump to the feed line just to prime for first start and it really helps. Once it's primed and runs they remove the lift pump, and yes crack all 4
All diesel systems are closed.put ALL lines on tight .just Crack the injected lines on top of pump till you see fuel dripping. Close lines when you have a good flow Crack ythe injector lines AT the injector 1 at a time until you have good flow this system is a Totally sealed system runs only when no air gets in.good luck
Wow Guys what a great Work you did on that nice machine. I'm not a mechanic ore Something near to it... but that's why I learned so much of your Videos. Thanks for Sharing and best wishes from Germany!!
ALSO.... A HUGE HELP... Would be to install a high pressure electric solenoid pump between the tank and filters. You'll see fuel within seconds to a couple minutes. The "cavity," will fill MUCH faster.
what a monster. i have a old case 310 just put in rebuilt injectors. got to prime it. when they dont run the case is called a "head case"! that sounds like a killerdozer.
Me dad had one of those in new zealand , his had a back-actor fitted on the rear , great bit a kit , and i had a 530 construction king here in the UK with backactor fitted , that was a pig cos some bright spark didnt put anti freeze in the ol slag , cracked behind the injector pump , but did find another one a 550 CK all in bits foe 300 quid , and the backactor was just like bran new , it went to poland when the farm was sold , the ol chap didnt know that , the son soon had that on the market , lots of dosh !! regards to you all from the UK
As others have noted you turn slowly with one track in neutral and fast with one in high and one in low. You also do not turn while pushing dirt since it is hard on the tractor and you don't have nearly the power when only one track is doing the pushing. The brakes on these are problematic and most guys disconnect them before they have to tear half the machine apart to deal with hassles. Mine were disabled when I got the tractor and I've left them that way. That said where I live it is flat as a pancake. You couldn't find something to roll down if you tried and the main issue would be running into a tree because you weren't paying attention.
How many years was that left track sized? It required quite an amount about playing with those levers to allow it to become freed. Congratulations on that. The save for allowing that engine to finally start. I'm so glad it did.
The button on the side panel you said is hooked to the brakes is correct. It is a brake lock . It locks both brakes together , so doesn't matter which brake pedal you use it applies brakes to both tracks at same time. We had a 455C case crawler loader that had it .
I believe the brakes are out of adjustment your bull gears were trying but something stopped them when brakes act like after sprockets etc that is what it usually. Tracks are tightened by grease gat a manual, parts and assembly it would really help you Best of luck an d keep at it
I took a transmission out of a 1150 case that was fun. And put the bastard back in. Then I changed the oil and got piece of a thrust bearing. One thing after the other.
The two tall controls are your track controls but forward is high then the middle is neutral and back towards operator is low…straight ahead forward is both controls all the way forward….granule right hand turn is left control forward and right in neutral..faster right turn is left control forward and right back to you in Low !!
👍 Just a helpful note when the injector pump is dry bleed the lines at the head. Open and close 1 at a time like you are bleeding brakes. This will help the pump prime quicker. 🦅🇺🇸🦅
hey boys I hope u checked the hydro oil in the back drive motor case, before u put it thru her paces. Are those brakes hydro electric got to get them warm
sounds like its running better with more time on it, I think it may have had one or two cylinders with low compression but will recover with more run time. I think you may wish to look into adding more fuel if possible, it sounds a little poppy and hollow and isn't smoking at all under load? Maybe a slight timing adjustment with the pump may help as well although I think the timing is really close. Good job on the rebuild man it makes a lot of mechanically inclined people weary of messing with them and you took the challenge head on.
We have a 450B 1k hours thing is pretty much bullet proof, any questions let me know. Rams can leak on tracks. There’s a grease zerk under a nut plug in the track to tighten the track the more grease the more the track gets tight
In the future remember that every one of the screw on fuel filters before the injection pump has an air bleed screw as well.... and as I'm sure you can imagine, a filter full of air is one MASSIVE airlock! And will take FOREVER to prime without being bled.
way back when I ran a TD 25 and it had a planetary drive associated with each steering clutch lever and you pull it back one notch and it would drop the gear ratio down 10 or 15% so that you push a full load of dirt in a circle and not have to keep starting and stopping and clutching and disengaging to get it to steer that's the theory full power to the track and make a right turn with no clutch slippage it's all done mechanically with gear ratios one track is going faster than the other... Another bit of information that might be useful to you is don't ever let a fuel tank get below one quarter full because it'll agitate the silt in the bottom of the tank and plug your filters up if you want to plug your filters up run that machine down so there's about two or three gallons left in the tank every time that fuel sloshes back and forth it's going to lift that silt and dirt and water and slosh it around and get it mixed in with the fuel but if it's a quarter or a half full it can't agitate like I said now if you want to get some of that silt and water out of there Park the machine so that it's leaning back a little bit and a little bit to the right and stick that siphon hose down inside there and maybe some of the silt will all go into one corner of the tank and suck it out into a glass jar one gallon pickle jar so you can take a look what's going on inside that tank there's usually rust particles paint chips dirt organic material water..
That’s wild about the planetary. We have a TD8 that we redid the steering clutches in recently and I know what you’re talking about with the clutches but I don’t think it has the reduced speed option.
Great work at list you guys git it running for now I love dozers watch that one it brings child hood memories diggers and dozens is my world. Keep it up stay in touch and Marry Christmas 🎄🎄🎄
I have had a Case 450B for about 10 yrs-just like yours-Hi/Lo should be on decal on top of dash(I saw decal on yours - decal may not show on yours for hi/lo)lever forward is hi -lever back is low-most of the time I have to stop and kill engine and shift into hi or lo-on the fly sometimes will not engage(gears are not syc have to catch it just right). NO BIG DEAL. Always work or push in Lo with the two levers (between your legs) in back position or low-once you get some speed and load is lighter or moving backwards with blade up move two levers(together/at same time) forward to go faster. TURNING BRAKE PEDALS-AAhhh-they lock up rear brakes constantly!!! BAD design I think. Some people REMOVE the pedals altogether(if someone besides the owner is operating the unit and not aware of lock up) and steer with the two levers between your legs and forward/reverse lever. I never steer with tuning brake pedals. Raise the blade and try it in an open area, but always let off the gas pedal and let rpm come down(if you snap the trans main shaft lots of $$$$ will fly away) when you shift the levers-you will get the hang of it quickly. 3 functions of pedals(pushing both at same time and equal pressure) all way up-go - half way down -neutral(not moving forward or backwards) - all the way down - stop. Need to stop-drop the blade.LOL. One last thing(this is getting long) if you move the tall levers just slightly and not all the way to stop position while moving at a faster speed dozer will gradually turn in that direction(left lever drifts to the left rt lever to the rt) pretty cool!! About left track not moving - brake master cylinder stuck. If you want some more info and 1st hand experience - shoot me an e-mail.dldavis195678@yahoo.com. Have fun with that great little toy.
It is a roseamayee pump, you will get dribble fuel but no actual injection, there are two pins in I the end of the shaft with two shoes that ride a stator them pins are stuck from sitting
The brakes use hydraulic fluid not brake fluid. You do not need brakes to turn just run the side you want to turn to in low and the other in high. Our 450 had no brakes at all and the mechanic at ais said someone had put brake fluid in them. I believe if they do work they actually disable the drive as well as applying the brakes. I also think there is separate oil for torque converter but I may be thinking of the 580. It's been 20 years
Your turning clutch’s set up for to long they will sometimes lock up more you run it they will free up more ,check your master cylinder for steering see if you need fluid in them .
That's some of the best stuff on the market. I'd dump double dosage in the tank and fill it up. It will smoke different colors for awhile and then come to life.
Well if you just get your squirt bottle and about a pint of gas or whatever put your little gas in that the intake get the thing to start turning and turning over and starting and then you go ahead and pump that pump up this is old Rob
You don't have to crack all of the injector lines. You could crack just two and have those two cylinders carry the rest to bleed the rest of the injectors.
Any old track machine left not moving. The rails are subject to be locked up. Old school way of breaking them loose is soak them with kerosene or diesel fuel both are perpetrating lubricants! Many of the old track machines can be freed up by doing this! Messy yes! Works yes!
There is a video on the c and c equipment channel that shows exactly how to put that pump on if you can't find it get back to me and I'll tell you how to find it
Does anyone know why the left side track wouldn’t move!?!?
Seized track?
The track was seized as you could see the drive wheel was trying to turn the track I’ve seen it before the track was stuck she just needs a good run
Seized pins and rollers. No big issue. If you ever do another dozer that's sat awhile, a trick my pap used to use was a good doucheing of the track pins and rollers with used motor oil before even trying to start... by the time it busts off it had soaked in plenty. Kinda polluting though if you're not careful. Also....next time just crack all 4 injectors....lol
@@simonmusicka5552 s
Right behind your left heel is a valve with the knob off of it with a round rod guard around it below thee seat. THAT valve is a declutch valve that you can move so that the particular track you're mashing the brake pedal will release so you can pedal steer the machine but will stay disengaged until you let up on the pedal. I always ran the 450's with that turned off so when I went to stop the track clutch would stay engaged and would stop the machine if both hi/lo levers were in high or low. You can turn the machine with one in high and the other in low 0r just put one in neutral and maybe use a brake. You need to know more just let me know. I ran one just like that, an 850 and an 1150. A Case is a Case and some are 4-letter words, just like Mack!
The lever down on the inside of your left foot is high and low range. On mine you can only get it in gear with the engine off. Forward is low. Back is high and just for grading very loose, dry material on flat ground. As in no power. At least on mine. Which is a 450. No letter designation. The breaks on mine are dry disc and notorious for wearing out. I have actually removed the pedals to make room for my big feet. The dozer holds itself back on hills as long as the engine is running. If you keep the blade pointed down hill, which will also put gravity on your side for pushing, and the engine dies just drop the blade and it will dig in and stop you. If you are pointing up hill and the engine dies, the blade will slide on top of the ground and you are along for the ride. In seven years my breaks have never worked and I have only taken a few little roller coaster rides but I always have it in the back of my mind that someday I might have to just jump and stand there and wave goodbye.
Forward is low? I thought forward was high?
@@dieseJL As I said, mine is a straight 450 with no letter. It might have changed on latter models. And I can't swear that I haven't been running mine in the wrong gear for years. But mine didn't seem to have any power at all in the rear location.
Hello goodnight I'm texting with who is you i like your channel This is Kevin Dubai is talking to you i like your channel
Driving it, the smiles on both your faces was priceless. Good to see it moving and working, great job.
Yeah! We had to earn this one 🤣
So happy to see this thing moving! Well done!
Just run it wide open and use the clutch to turn!
Nice job there fella's!
The lower lever on the floor is Hi/Lo range back for low, forward for Hi.
The L/R tower levers are Hi/Lo track drive Forward= Hi Back= Low
Left brake was stuck because it turned loose in Rev. , Classic symptom for that brake system.
When peddle is depressed it release the clutch for that side and applies the brake.
That's the click you hear in the Trans. when applying the brake.
The brakes are for piviot steering the track HI/Lo levers make gradual power turns.
TGP
Good point about clutch release. I had forgotten!
Exactly right. 💯
Ok so back is low? I see mixed reviews. To be honest for the 10 minutes I ran it I couldn’t really tell.
@@dieseJL Correct 2 speed lever back for low range Means tower track levers in low = first gear. tower levers in high =3rd gear
Shift two speed forward for High range, means tower levers now will be
Low=2nd gear and High =4th gear.
Never shift two speed lever moving, always stopped, and best to shut off engine, so it doesn't grind.
TGP
Great work guys! I have spent many hours operating a 450C. The controls were the same. Personally I love the two speed track. You will learn to steer with that system very quickly. Don't ever use the brakes. First of all they are useless, second they fail very quickly, third they provide very little advantage over a change in direction. Did I mention they're useless? Anyhow, enjoy your Case as I did. Also I believe your chain was rusted/ seized into a flat line on the bottom. Finally got some pins and bushings to wake up with force. Good luck.
Yeah the power steer is verryyyyy nice
Think that is pretty awesome you are not afraid to throw down a challenge with that injection pump. I did the same thing with an automatic transmission and it feels good in the end that you didn't give up. Pretty cool too that you are out there to help the other guy that is struggling to figure something out.
Thanks! It's too expensive to pay people to work on this stuff...
Good job. Operated one of these in 1972. Sweet little machine
DUDE YOU APPLIED THAT LUBE WITH LOVE AND ACCURACY, well done😎
These old diesels are notoriously hard to prime if air gets in system. I've seen guys use a new style lift pump to the feed line just to prime for first start and it really helps. Once it's primed and runs they remove the lift pump, and yes crack all 4
All diesel systems are closed.put ALL lines on tight .just Crack the injected lines on top of pump till you see fuel dripping. Close lines when you have a good flow Crack ythe injector lines AT the injector 1 at a time until you have good flow this system is a Totally sealed system runs only when no air gets in.good luck
Good little trim dozer. Got on my first in 1977. Thanks from. Sc
The lower carrage tracks and bearings had been sitting in dirt and mud , was locked up it finally broke free.
Wow Guys what a great Work you did on that nice machine. I'm not a mechanic ore Something near to it... but that's why I learned so much of your Videos. Thanks for Sharing and best wishes from Germany!!
Thanks for watching!!
ALSO.... A HUGE HELP... Would be to install a high pressure electric solenoid pump between the tank and filters. You'll see fuel within seconds to a couple minutes. The "cavity," will fill MUCH faster.
Congratulations on getting that dozer to run
what a monster. i have a old case 310 just put in rebuilt injectors. got to prime it. when they dont run the case is called a "head case"! that sounds like a killerdozer.
Me dad had one of those in new zealand , his had a back-actor fitted on the rear , great bit a kit , and i had a 530 construction king here in the UK with backactor fitted , that was a pig cos some bright spark didnt put anti freeze in the ol slag , cracked behind the injector pump , but did find another one a 550 CK all in bits foe 300 quid , and the backactor was just like bran new , it went to poland when the farm was sold , the ol chap didnt know that , the son soon had that on the market , lots of dosh !! regards to you all from the UK
Those are great little dozers. I’d love to find one like that for the ranch.
As others have noted you turn slowly with one track in neutral and fast with one in high and one in low. You also do not turn while pushing dirt since it is hard on the tractor and you don't have nearly the power when only one track is doing the pushing. The brakes on these are problematic and most guys disconnect them before they have to tear half the machine apart to deal with hassles. Mine were disabled when I got the tractor and I've left them that way. That said where I live it is flat as a pancake. You couldn't find something to roll down if you tried and the main issue would be running into a tree because you weren't paying attention.
Fabulous! You guys ROCK & Roll!
Once you get use to that system. You'll never want to push dirt with anything else. I've run that kinda machine for years it's a good little dozer
GREAT JOB... I MISS MY 450B WISH I STILL HAD IT...
Great job fellas. She took a bit, but you guys cracked it and got it running. Congrats 👏
We knew we would prevail!
You had a rock in the the drivsprocket. Good luck
Fabulous guys! She's a working girl again!
The high low is beside the steering box bush in low. It is a great grade machine.
What a lovely small doser.
I think it was stuck in mud on the left side, and broke loose.
How many years was that left track sized? It required quite an amount about playing with those levers to allow it to become freed. Congratulations on that. The save for allowing that engine to finally start. I'm so glad it did.
I was anxious watching this video because I recently went through the same ordeal with my Massey Ferguson 165 after a injection pump rebuild.
Great video. Your thought process works well. Great to see camera shy Lisa (I think I got the name right). Please keep sharing these great videos.
Thank you! Will do!
Well done, you have it moving, good video !!
Nice little dozer. Tighten those tracks!
That's crazy, and you rebuilt the pump yourself, so much success 🙌 👏 👌
The button on the side panel you said is hooked to the brakes is correct. It is a brake lock . It locks both brakes together , so doesn't matter which brake pedal you use it applies brakes to both tracks at same time. We had a 455C case crawler loader that had it .
Patience is a virtue!
Great job overall guys, ESPECIALLY THAT PUMP REBUILD! YOU HAD THE BALLS AND THE WHEREWITHAL!
Turned out pretty good eh?
You could check fuel right into your bloodstream, holding your finger over the hole of the high-pressure pump good idea
I believe the brakes are out of adjustment your bull gears were trying but something stopped them when brakes act like after sprockets etc that is what it usually. Tracks are tightened by grease gat a manual, parts and assembly it would really help you
Best of luck an d keep at it
I have a case 450. Was sitting for about 8 years. 1 track was stuck. These lil 450s come in handy.
I deleted the brakes. They are not needed.
I took a transmission out of a 1150 case that was fun. And put the bastard back in. Then I changed the oil and got piece of a thrust bearing. One thing after the other.
Why did you do that?
@dieseJL it would not move. I took it to case and they rebuilt it.
Manuals are always a big help. First thing I get.
It LIVES!!! Nice work and great video...
The two tall controls are your track controls but forward is high then the middle is neutral and back towards operator is low…straight ahead forward is both controls all the way forward….granule right hand turn is left control forward and right in neutral..faster right turn is left control forward and right back to you in Low !!
Awesome! Nice work!
Great job fellas. Had fun watching you figure it out.
I could see one of your idlers was stuck the one in the middle it popped and then the whole track started moving
👍 Just a helpful note when the injector pump is dry bleed the lines at the head. Open and close 1 at a time like you are bleeding brakes. This will help the pump prime quicker.
🦅🇺🇸🦅
hey boys I hope u checked the hydro oil in the back drive motor case, before u put it thru her paces. Are those brakes hydro electric got to get them warm
Hooray!!! Y'all got her going.
sounds like its running better with more time on it, I think it may have had one or two cylinders with low compression but will recover with more run time. I think you may wish to look into adding more fuel if possible, it sounds a little poppy and hollow and isn't smoking at all under load? Maybe a slight timing adjustment with the pump may help as well although I think the timing is really close. Good job on the rebuild man it makes a lot of mechanically inclined people weary of messing with them and you took the challenge head on.
Thanks! I think a few of the fuel lines still had some air in them too. I’m sure the more we run it the better it will get.
We have a 450B 1k hours thing is pretty much bullet proof, any questions let me know. Rams can leak on tracks. There’s a grease zerk under a nut plug in the track to tighten the track the more grease the more the track gets tight
Great Videos, Love the drama!
Nicely done guys!
In the future remember that every one of the screw on fuel filters before the injection pump has an air bleed screw as well.... and as I'm sure you can imagine, a filter full of air is one MASSIVE airlock! And will take FOREVER to prime without being bled.
way back when I ran a TD 25 and it had a planetary drive associated with each steering clutch lever and you pull it back one notch and it would drop the gear ratio down 10 or 15% so that you push a full load of dirt in a circle and not have to keep starting and stopping and clutching and disengaging to get it to steer that's the theory full power to the track and make a right turn with no clutch slippage it's all done mechanically with gear ratios one track is going faster than the other... Another bit of information that might be useful to you is don't ever let a fuel tank get below one quarter full because it'll agitate the silt in the bottom of the tank and plug your filters up if you want to plug your filters up run that machine down so there's about two or three gallons left in the tank every time that fuel sloshes back and forth it's going to lift that silt and dirt and water and slosh it around and get it mixed in with the fuel but if it's a quarter or a half full it can't agitate like I said now if you want to get some of that silt and water out of there Park the machine so that it's leaning back a little bit and a little bit to the right and stick that siphon hose down inside there and maybe some of the silt will all go into one corner of the tank and suck it out into a glass jar one gallon pickle jar so you can take a look what's going on inside that tank there's usually rust particles paint chips dirt organic material water..
That’s wild about the planetary. We have a TD8 that we redid the steering clutches in recently and I know what you’re talking about with the clutches but I don’t think it has the reduced speed option.
I put a lot of hours on a 850 We always just used the high low levers to turn
Great work at list you guys git it running for now I love dozers watch that one it brings
child hood memories diggers and dozens is my world.
Keep it up stay in touch and Marry Christmas 🎄🎄🎄
Thanks for the support!!
Good job gentlemen, love the way you guys stayed with it until yall got it going, sound like a good dozen.
It was a long time coming. , But finally got a good dozer with a 4 way blade 👍👍
Yeah it’s a good little dozer now!
I have had a Case 450B for about 10 yrs-just like yours-Hi/Lo should be on decal on top of dash(I saw decal on yours - decal may not show on yours for hi/lo)lever forward is hi -lever back is low-most of the time I have to stop and kill engine and shift into hi or lo-on the fly sometimes will not engage(gears are not syc have to catch it just right). NO BIG DEAL. Always work or push in Lo with the two levers (between your legs) in back position or low-once you get some speed and load is lighter or moving backwards with blade up move two levers(together/at same time) forward to go faster. TURNING BRAKE PEDALS-AAhhh-they lock up rear brakes constantly!!! BAD design I think. Some people REMOVE the pedals altogether(if someone besides the owner is operating the unit and not aware of lock up) and steer with the two levers between your legs and forward/reverse lever. I never steer with tuning brake pedals. Raise the blade and try it in an open area, but always let off the gas pedal and let rpm come down(if you snap the trans main shaft lots of $$$$ will fly away) when you shift the levers-you will get the hang of it quickly. 3 functions of pedals(pushing both at same time and equal pressure) all way up-go - half way down -neutral(not moving forward or backwards) - all the way down - stop. Need to stop-drop the blade.LOL. One last thing(this is getting long) if you move the tall levers just slightly and not all the way to stop position while moving at a faster speed dozer will gradually turn in that direction(left lever drifts to the left rt lever to the rt) pretty cool!! About left track not moving - brake master cylinder stuck. If you want some more info and 1st hand experience - shoot me an e-mail.dldavis195678@yahoo.com. Have fun with that great little toy.
I just bought a 450 today similar to this so interesting to see all this
Man I love working on that thing. Great machines.
@@dieseJL mine runs great with the exception of the left pivot pedal doesn’t function
@@ryanfox3691 minor, don’t even need it on those machines
@@tylerjezowski5633 yea I gathered that but it is mice to have. I got mine for 4k with a trailer to haul it
@@ryanfox3691 deal of the century
Good job guys
I dont know about case but johndeere has a timming marker at the flywheel to mark top dead center
Very cool, good job guys !!
It is a roseamayee pump, you will get dribble fuel but no actual injection, there are two pins in I the end of the shaft with two shoes that ride a stator them pins are stuck from sitting
That's the best thing y'all can do is to run it the more you use it the better it will operate
Cool little dozer guys!!!
Check out the new video 👍🏻
Another great video
Nice case 450
thats a great experience. Great video
The track Wes probably seized. There looks like brake master cylinders that are attached to those pedals under the floor pan.
Good size dozer and brand
The brakes use hydraulic fluid not brake fluid. You do not need brakes to turn just run the side you want to turn to in low and the other in high. Our 450 had no brakes at all and the mechanic at ais said someone had put brake fluid in them. I believe if they do work they actually disable the drive as well as applying the brakes. I also think there is separate oil for torque converter but I may be thinking of the 580. It's been 20 years
That’s interesting, I read dot3
Only put a Case TCH equivalent oil in the brake master cylinders.
Great job fella's!
Great job guys.
Your turning clutch’s set up for to long they will sometimes lock up more you run it they will free up more ,check your master cylinder for steering see if you need fluid in them .
As long as it's been sitting I'd dump some killem in the fuel tank. Algae can be a big problem.
Yeah we need to do something it’s bad!
That's some of the best stuff on the market. I'd dump double dosage in the tank and fill it up. It will smoke different colors for awhile and then come to life.
Well if you just get your squirt bottle and about a pint of gas or whatever put your little gas in that the intake get the thing to start turning and turning over and starting and then you go ahead and pump that pump up this is old Rob
Great job fellas. Thanks for sharing your adventures 😁😁😁
You could see the air bubbles from the vent wire. It won't start until all bubbles are bled and lines to each injector are full.
Now build a shed to keep it out of the weather unlike the last owner. Or at least get a tarp to cover it.😊
You should bleed the system out a little bit while it’s running so that no trap air left inside the system
You don't have to crack all of the injector lines. You could crack just two and have those two cylinders carry the rest to bleed the rest of the injectors.
The high pressure pump has to be sealed it could be letting air in the high pressure line put the cover on to seal it
That dozers looks like the one Butch Russel used to have.
Nice one sir,,👍👍👍👍
When it comes to injection pumps add injectors and injector lines it's all in theory practical uses something different though
You have fluid in your final drive
You are awesome
I have the same dozer and need to know where to find the valves to stop that oil leak . I assume yours is from the top of the valve cover ?
I’m assuming it’s the valve cover gasket. I have a new one I just haven’t dove into it yet. When we do I’ll surely put it in a video.
We've always opened the whole line
Good job
Your stater ring final injection pins are stuck, once to get good fuel and cleaner in it they will free up
You guys r great
“You’re tearing up the yard” x2
You: 😁😁😁
Well done this process was awesome to watch
Thanks! It was quite the process!
Your steering clutches took a little while to lube up.
Any old track machine left not moving. The rails are subject to be locked up. Old school way of breaking them loose is soak them with kerosene or diesel fuel both are perpetrating lubricants! Many of the old track machines can be freed up by doing this! Messy yes! Works yes!
Persperating lubricants
2 thumbs guys when she started to run !
There is a video on the c and c equipment channel that shows exactly how to put that pump on if you can't find it get back to me and I'll tell you how to find it
What was the black piece you used to get the seal on the shaft?
it's like a special tool I bought. I have a link to the store in the description.
@@dieseJL yeah my dad was trying to rebuild his pump on a 68 John Deere tractor and we got all the parts off eBay