The highlighter tip is a gold mine!!! I really appreciate you sharing it. I've always hated the paper or giant green sneeze guard method. :) My Omni 1 didn't have power supply issues, but my main mast had a many loose bolts and a few cross threaded in to make it sit crooked. Nothing I couldn't fix myself, but a bummer from the QC Dept.
You're welcome! It truly is the biggest bummer about using a UV laser. Btw I was checking out your website the other day. It looks great! Congrats! I may have some questions for you in the future about it as I'm potentially looking to overhaul my own. I'll have to look back through your videos to see if you already talked about it.
Thinking of getting one... I don't see where they sell a rotary attachment for drinkware like wine glasses, tumblers, etc.... Did I miss that somewhere if they do?
@@pfiltz Again the machines are provided by the company for review so I just talk about the machines as they are sent mostly. The rotary that comes with the unit is not specific to the machine so if you search out the specific rotary name in UA-cam you may see it being used with other devices. commarker.com/product/5-in-1-laser-rotary-for-commarker-laser-cutter-and-engraver/?ref=vU-WvfekcSRy_r
I imagine the reason there is no red laser outline / framing is that the shared optics wouldn't work well for red as it's the opposite end of the spectrum so the uv specified f-theta lens refraction would produce poor results. Maybe an overhead / oblique uv sensitive usb camera could show the framing pattern preview as a feed to the Lightburn camera viewer. This would be neat and could utilize the perspective distortion correction of Lightburn.
Very informative video. I've had mine for a couple weeks and can't find the Commarker Materials Library you refer to in the video. Its not on my usb drive and I'm not finding it on their website. I was hoping you couple point me to where you got it. Thank you!👋
Mine came on the USB drive but I have also seen a potentially updated version on their Facebook group in the files section. You can join that here facebook.com/share/18xw2pPKWa/?mibextid=K35XfP
I would recommend a Fiber Laser for deeper engraving in metal. I always suggest at least a 30W machine but the higher the better and faster you will be able to work.
I have the files to make your own here. Again this was made for the B6 machine so it could be better and more custom for this machine but I have not altered the file for that. drive.google.com/file/d/1befRmsaxdYsD5EMpkGzP2zdgGLGwpwKZ/view?usp=sharing
How do you record your voice? Is there a particular mic or signal processing chain you use? It's always so incredibly dry with almost no room noise. If I didn't know any better I would think you did ADR, but you wouldn't go through that much effort just to have super clean voice recording... would you?
I recently just updated my microphone to a Rode shotgun NTG mic. It’s great. Also I edit my videos using Descript which has a Studio sound checkbox that removes room noise and breathing etc. Only issue is it’s sometimes too aggressive with certain words. You may notice that the audio gets low sometimes when I say the word “machine”.
@@BusterBeagle3D Well, that explains the lack of lavalier mic. Descript looks like a very impressive piece of software! It's always interesting to me to hear these behind-the-scene details. Thanks for sharing, and awesome video.
It was a grill that came with the xTool F1 Machine. I probably shouldn't have used it in this video since it's not part of this machine. However I have also purchased heat sink fins in the past for work on other machines that a smaller but basically does the same thing. amzn.to/3P5XgAh
Best way to test settings is by making a test grid and in Lightburn if that is the program you are using. There is a menu item in the program to create one for you based on the settings you choose. You can test frequency at particular Q Pulses or speed and line interval or really any combination of 2 of those settings at the same time. Might be too much for a UA-cam comment but frequency is how fast that 355nm wavelength is hitting the surface. Speed of course is how fast the laser moves on the work surface. Q Pulse is how fast the laser shoots a stored energy pulse of the frequency you choose per microsecond. So the lower the number the stronger the beam is since you are shooting more per second. Lastly line interval is how close the burned lines are next to each other. The smaller the laser spot the closer those lines can be next to one another and the higher resolution you can get. This is all a quick overview but there are many videos online that do help go into those settings much deeper. Chat GPT is also a great resource for explaining those settings ever further.
@BusterBeagle3D I need some guidance as I'm new to lasers. I'm looking for a machine that can cut and engrave efficiently. My main focus is engraving on plastic materials like PETG and PLA (from my 3D prints), as well as on wood. Additionally, I’d like the machine to cut wood up to 5 cm thick and plastics of similar thickness. It would also be great if the machine could handle metal engraving (and possibly cutting small metal pieces). For example, I’m particularly interested in the ability to engrave a coin with depth. If I need multiple machines to achieve all of this, I’m fine with that-please recommend one machine for each purpose if necessary. However, my primary focus is on cutting and engraving plastics and wood for home use, while maintaining professional quality to sell products online. Could you recommend machines that suit these needs?
For engraving in metal coins you really are going to need a fiber laser. I would recommend ATLEAST a 30W machine. 20W can still do it but it's going to take a long time. If you want to cut I'm not a big fan of doing that with any galvo type laser so you would need a diode or a CO2 machine. If you want to cut clear plastics and acrylics you need a C02 machine as a diode can't do it. Almost all can engrave on plastic but this particular type of UV laser can do it without heating the surface and potentially give you some other shades or color options on the plastic the others might not be able to but again all will work on most plastics. Good luck!
I would suggest extra layers of protection for this wavelength of laser. Especially marking glass material. Existing engravings or cavity/density pockets in the glass material will divert the reflected UV and thermal radiation emitted at the point of interaction and flash into operator's eyes.
It might have been a fluke and if you are not super experienced with working on machines I wouldn't recommend just opening it a poking around if you don't need to but if there is a problem and you are the handy type who would rather fix something simple then bother with a return then have at it!
When I asked, it's to shut down the laser if you open the door to the enclosure while it is running. It's a safety feature. Also if anyone asks, the small port at the head power button is not used. They were going to use it to connect the galvo mirror portion but instead chose to use the larger connector at the rear of the head unit.
Great video. Trying to setup my Omni 1 in lightburn. I've got the drivers installed successfully. I'm configuring it in "Device Settings" dialog in the "Ports and Laser Settings" tab. When "Laser Type" to UV, the "enable q-pulse width setting" is greyed out. Can someone who has Omni 1 configured and have q-pulse working , show/tell me how they set it up. Screen shot or decription would be appreciated.
Sorry I know this was a while ago but the q Pulse is greyed out when UV is selected I believe since it's not a setting you can turn on and off but you should still have the option in the material settings. Mine is also still greyed out but functional. Some thing with the power settings. You may find some are still showing up but greyed out, I thing Lightburn is disregarding it anyway.
there is no right or wrong laser to use, the key is Application, as in whatever it is that you need to do, big or small, there is a laser with the appropriate technology for your specific needs. love the video, and no i am not a bot... 😂 😂 i need to buy me a laser or maby santa will gift me one. it would be a dream come true. ☺ my name is Jose nice to meet you my friend 🙏 PS; what do you think about using a variety of big and small leaves to as a canvas to engrave on, maby a beautiful picture of someone special or a loved pet or of something wonderful like some abstract art, and i would like to have some framed some encased in resin, and i was wondering if it was possible to do multiple layers of resin with the lasered leaf suspended within the resin but in multiple layers all stacked up to make it look 3d. i got some ideas i would love to see manifested and made by me and with help of the community, i know i need advice along the way. well i hope someone takes this idea and makes something of it, i know i would
The leaves were an interesting thing to work on and I can see it being a cool thing for scrapbooks or many other craft projects, the possibilities are endless.
Seems like a variant of AtomStack M4 DPSS laser(2W/1064nm) except for a 5W UV diode. So, it has the same lower lifetime < 10000 hrs(with unpredictable degradation), instead of real fiber lasers(100000 hrs), which is 10X more. Seems like they saved significantly on the Fiber laser module(No Raycus/JPT) itself, eventhough it is priced well above lower end real fiber laser. They also removed the red laser outline(replaced with cheap window), could reduce alignment issues. Also the cable deceptively resembles a fat fiber cable conduit, eventhough it is a non fiber electrical wiring. Hopefully the clones will become much cheaper(atleast 3X cheaper🤞). The engraving effect is far more intricate than other fiber lasers though. The review is exceptional as always.❤👍
Imagine that you have nothing better to do, but to go on each video of this laser and talk trash about the laser and the creators. People have absolutely nothing better to do?
![The Ultimate UV Laser Engraver Test! Can the ComMarker Omni 1 Handle ANY Material? [Review]](/img/n.gif)
I love how thorough and objective you are in your reviews.
Thank you for watching! I try to be as honest as possible.
Your still one of the best reviewer of laser out there. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, appreciate you watching and the support!
I ordered mine a few days ago and I cant wait for it to arrive. Great video and keep up the good work.
Thank you! Hope you like it.
The highlighter tip is a gold mine!!! I really appreciate you sharing it. I've always hated the paper or giant green sneeze guard method. :) My Omni 1 didn't have power supply issues, but my main mast had a many loose bolts and a few cross threaded in to make it sit crooked. Nothing I couldn't fix myself, but a bummer from the QC Dept.
You're welcome! It truly is the biggest bummer about using a UV laser. Btw I was checking out your website the other day. It looks great! Congrats! I may have some questions for you in the future about it as I'm potentially looking to overhaul my own. I'll have to look back through your videos to see if you already talked about it.
Amazing review as usual
Thank you. Appreciate it!
Thinking of getting one... I don't see where they sell a rotary attachment for drinkware like wine glasses, tumblers, etc.... Did I miss that somewhere if they do?
When you go to the link in the description there should be a selection of a bundle the includes the rotary.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks... I found it. Wondering why I don't see any videos of folks using one though.
@@pfiltz Again the machines are provided by the company for review so I just talk about the machines as they are sent mostly. The rotary that comes with the unit is not specific to the machine so if you search out the specific rotary name in UA-cam you may see it being used with other devices. commarker.com/product/5-in-1-laser-rotary-for-commarker-laser-cutter-and-engraver/?ref=vU-WvfekcSRy_r
Great review and Merry Christmas!
Thank you. Merry Christmas!
i just ordered a Haotian UV, was lloking for years, now the time was here 🙂
They certainly are coming down and getting more accessible which is great.
I imagine the reason there is no red laser outline / framing is that the shared optics wouldn't work well for red as it's the opposite end of the spectrum so the uv specified f-theta lens refraction would produce poor results.
Maybe an overhead / oblique uv sensitive usb camera could show the framing pattern preview as a feed to the Lightburn camera viewer.
This would be neat and could utilize the perspective distortion correction of Lightburn.
Have you tried doing coated ss tumblers on your omni 1?
Nicely done - Alan Z.
Thanks Alan and appreciate the view. Happy Holidays!
Very informative video. I've had mine for a couple weeks and can't find the Commarker Materials Library you refer to in the video. Its not on my usb drive and I'm not finding it on their website. I was hoping you couple point me to where you got it. Thank you!👋
Mine came on the USB drive but I have also seen a potentially updated version on their Facebook group in the files section. You can join that here facebook.com/share/18xw2pPKWa/?mibextid=K35XfP
Hello, great show sir. What do you think is the best Laser to do deep engravings on ss knives and o1tool steel?
I would recommend a Fiber Laser for deeper engraving in metal. I always suggest at least a 30W machine but the higher the better and faster you will be able to work.
Can you change the height from the program, or only manually? For my application I’d really like to change it automatically
As far as I know it’s only manually. I don’t think there is any connection from the motor controller to the laser control board.
@ guess you could hook up a motor to the rotating nob on top and drive it that way
Where can I get a small safety enclosure like this?
I have the files to make your own here. Again this was made for the B6 machine so it could be better and more custom for this machine but I have not altered the file for that. drive.google.com/file/d/1befRmsaxdYsD5EMpkGzP2zdgGLGwpwKZ/view?usp=sharing
How do you record your voice? Is there a particular mic or signal processing chain you use? It's always so incredibly dry with almost no room noise. If I didn't know any better I would think you did ADR, but you wouldn't go through that much effort just to have super clean voice recording... would you?
I recently just updated my microphone to a Rode shotgun NTG mic. It’s great. Also I edit my videos using Descript which has a Studio sound checkbox that removes room noise and breathing etc. Only issue is it’s sometimes too aggressive with certain words. You may notice that the audio gets low sometimes when I say the word “machine”.
@@BusterBeagle3D Well, that explains the lack of lavalier mic. Descript looks like a very impressive piece of software! It's always interesting to me to hear these behind-the-scene details. Thanks for sharing, and awesome video.
Thanks for the video. what was your source for the for the table that you used under the wood when you were doing cutting?
It was a grill that came with the xTool F1 Machine. I probably shouldn't have used it in this video since it's not part of this machine. However I have also purchased heat sink fins in the past for work on other machines that a smaller but basically does the same thing. amzn.to/3P5XgAh
Where does one learn about how to tweak settings on the uv laser if one has never used any type of galvo laser just a diode?
Best way to test settings is by making a test grid and in Lightburn if that is the program you are using. There is a menu item in the program to create one for you based on the settings you choose. You can test frequency at particular Q Pulses or speed and line interval or really any combination of 2 of those settings at the same time. Might be too much for a UA-cam comment but frequency is how fast that 355nm wavelength is hitting the surface. Speed of course is how fast the laser moves on the work surface. Q Pulse is how fast the laser shoots a stored energy pulse of the frequency you choose per microsecond. So the lower the number the stronger the beam is since you are shooting more per second. Lastly line interval is how close the burned lines are next to each other. The smaller the laser spot the closer those lines can be next to one another and the higher resolution you can get.
This is all a quick overview but there are many videos online that do help go into those settings much deeper. Chat GPT is also a great resource for explaining those settings ever further.
This show here maybe?
???
???
@BusterBeagle3D I need some guidance as I'm new to lasers. I'm looking for a machine that can cut and engrave efficiently. My main focus is engraving on plastic materials like PETG and PLA (from my 3D prints), as well as on wood. Additionally, I’d like the machine to cut wood up to 5 cm thick and plastics of similar thickness.
It would also be great if the machine could handle metal engraving (and possibly cutting small metal pieces). For example, I’m particularly interested in the ability to engrave a coin with depth. If I need multiple machines to achieve all of this, I’m fine with that-please recommend one machine for each purpose if necessary. However, my primary focus is on cutting and engraving plastics and wood for home use, while maintaining professional quality to sell products online. Could you recommend machines that suit these needs?
For engraving in metal coins you really are going to need a fiber laser. I would recommend ATLEAST a 30W machine. 20W can still do it but it's going to take a long time. If you want to cut I'm not a big fan of doing that with any galvo type laser so you would need a diode or a CO2 machine. If you want to cut clear plastics and acrylics you need a C02 machine as a diode can't do it. Almost all can engrave on plastic but this particular type of UV laser can do it without heating the surface and potentially give you some other shades or color options on the plastic the others might not be able to but again all will work on most plastics. Good luck!
@@BusterBeagle3D thanks a lot, ill buy a CO2 an forget the metal engraving
I would suggest extra layers of protection for this wavelength of laser. Especially marking glass material. Existing engravings or cavity/density pockets in the glass material will divert the reflected UV and thermal radiation emitted at the point of interaction and flash into operator's eyes.
4:14. Might be a good idea for customers to open it up, and just double check the wiring before they plug it in.
It might have been a fluke and if you are not super experienced with working on machines I wouldn't recommend just opening it a poking around if you don't need to but if there is a problem and you are the handy type who would rather fix something simple then bother with a return then have at it!
the extra connector probably powers the fan in the safety enclosure...?
I was assuming it was some sort of exhaust and potentially a light hookup but it’s just a guess
When I asked, it's to shut down the laser if you open the door to the enclosure while it is running. It's a safety feature. Also if anyone asks, the small port at the head power button is not used. They were going to use it to connect the galvo mirror portion but instead chose to use the larger connector at the rear of the head unit.
Great video. Trying to setup my Omni 1 in lightburn. I've got the drivers installed successfully. I'm configuring it in "Device Settings" dialog in the "Ports and Laser Settings" tab. When "Laser Type" to UV, the "enable q-pulse width setting" is greyed out. Can someone who has Omni 1 configured and have q-pulse working , show/tell me how they set it up. Screen shot or decription would be appreciated.
Sorry I know this was a while ago but the q Pulse is greyed out when UV is selected I believe since it's not a setting you can turn on and off but you should still have the option in the material settings. Mine is also still greyed out but functional. Some thing with the power settings. You may find some are still showing up but greyed out, I thing Lightburn is disregarding it anyway.
Why not use a red dot for framing.
The red dot on other lasers is typically for height adjustments only. The actual laser is what is used for framing on a typical fiber laser.
there is no right or wrong laser to use, the key is Application, as in whatever it is that you need to do, big or small, there is a laser with the appropriate technology for your specific needs. love the video, and no i am not a bot... 😂 😂 i need to buy me a laser or maby santa will gift me one. it would be a dream come true. ☺ my name is Jose nice to meet you my friend 🙏
PS; what do you think about using a variety of big and small leaves to as a canvas to engrave on, maby a beautiful picture of someone special or a loved pet or of something wonderful like some abstract art, and i would like to have some framed some encased in resin, and i was wondering if it was possible to do multiple layers of resin with the lasered leaf suspended within the resin but in multiple layers all stacked up to make it look 3d.
i got some ideas i would love to see manifested and made by me and with help of the community, i know i need advice along the way. well i hope someone takes this idea and makes something of it, i know i would
The leaves were an interesting thing to work on and I can see it being a cool thing for scrapbooks or many other craft projects, the possibilities are endless.
Seems like a variant of AtomStack M4 DPSS laser(2W/1064nm) except for a 5W UV diode. So, it has the same lower lifetime < 10000 hrs(with unpredictable degradation), instead of real fiber lasers(100000 hrs), which is 10X more. Seems like they saved significantly on the Fiber laser module(No Raycus/JPT) itself, eventhough it is priced well above lower end real fiber laser. They also removed the red laser outline(replaced with cheap window), could reduce alignment issues. Also the cable deceptively resembles a fat fiber cable conduit, eventhough it is a non fiber electrical wiring. Hopefully the clones will become much cheaper(atleast 3X cheaper🤞). The engraving effect is far more intricate than other fiber lasers though. The review is exceptional as always.❤👍
Imagine that you have nothing better to do, but to go on each video of this laser and talk trash about the laser and the creators. People have absolutely nothing better to do?