I've watched a few of these types of pours (into the cells of the blocks) and I always see disasters with the trucks. It seems like no one has a good experience--although you guys certainly had an all around sh*tty day. I find that the people that mix bag by bag and dump in there by hand, get the best results but it takes a lot longer and it's tedious as hell. Thanks for giving the tips! I'd love to see the full house pour to see how it's done differently the second time.
Wow what a valuable video. I mean when you think of it, it was a rough day but there were so many good lessons learned. Been thinking about building my own house so this is such an interesting, detailed perspective. Massive respect to you guys and look forward to learning from more of your videos.
Glad it was helpful! Definitely a good lesson learned 😄 gotta roll with the punches! Luckily this has been the only somewhat serious injury on the project (knock on wood!)
I really like and support your emphasis on safety. Far too many youtubers are too relaxed regarding PPE. Sure, ideally you shouldn't need a lot of the time, but when things go wrong and you do need it, then you really need it. Concrete is an incredible thing, but there are sooo many variables to consider. An entire module in my construction management degree was just focused on concrete so I know a fair amount about it, but I STILL get nervous on pour days
In the future you can send the truck back to the batch plant. There is an ASTM standard requiring concrete to be placed within 90 minutes of being mixed with water. Ask to see the ticket when they arrive if it is close or more then 90 minutes send it back and ask for a new load. I have had to do it before on public and commercial jobs.
That is good to know! I bet it was close to the 90 minute mark, probably 30 minutes from plant to first stop, 20 minutes of waiting, and another 20-30 until it arrived
This! Your entire ordeal is on the concrete contractor based on the information provided in the video…if it was clear the delivery address and billing address were different. The driver and company should have sent another truck with fresh mix especially if they screwed up the delivery.
Thanks for sharing your experience - the good and the bad. Because concrete sets so fast and it would be our first time we also will hire out the concrete pour, probably including stem walls if we have any. Thanks for the tips of having water available and good gloves.
That's reminded me our first concrete pouring from a concrete pump. Issue was very hot weather outside and concrete was setting too fast. Somehow we managed to get it done 😅
You guys are so cool. Brave as. Ignore the trolls because all offers of advice worth hearing would come from peopl like yourselves that have been their and know your pain or professional peeps who know it’s long earned skills that take time. I say brave because I think it takes a lot to show the downs for the benefit of others but know your gona get as($$)ls bagging on you. Thanks for sharing. I’m subscribing now and looking forward to watching your videos. Thanks again 🤘🤘🤘
When you work with concrete is good to have a couple gallons of plain old vinegar. It neutralizes the concrete that gets on your skin then rinse with water😎😎 Concrete Burns use( Waterproof Bandages Transparent Film Dressing Clear Adhesive Bandages Tape Amazon product ) It's the Band-Aid they use on tattoos. I removed a fingerprint from a finger. I taped it up 10 days later no sign of injury. Comes in a variety of sizes
Yep we read about the vinegar after the fact! Just don't put try putting it on after the burn has run its course (ask me how I know..) I have been using good ole Glad saran wrap and it has been working well.
Late to the comments here, but the truck driver could have added quite a bit more water to the mix to slow the cure down. When I was young 12-13 one of my jobs was to water the walls down just before they poured the grout. A dry wall combined with say a 7-8'' slump will set up way faster than you can imagine especially when the sun is out, as you well found out.
Don't get your slab sealed. It will be easier and less expensive to epoxy your floor. Also don't go cheap on your epoxy product, make sure it is 100% solids with 0% VOC. GOOD PRODUCT will even cover any small heaving and will even hide cold joints that are filled with backer rod and plain ole caulk. I have dropped starter motors on my floor with no damage to the floor. MEK and laquer thinner are basically the only things that will destroy the coating.
I believe that if this had been done professionally, they would grout the wall with mortar only, and used a pumper, and would have ensured prompt, accurate, and early delivery. If saving money is critical, this type of job can be done with bags of pre-mix and an on-site mixer. I am not saying you should have done it that way.
Yeah in hindsight we would have totally hired a trailer pump! The masons who laid the wall quoted us for grouting but buying this much mix in bags was crazy expensive
@@MasonDixonAcres My assumption in grouting stem walls is that they can tolerate cold joints, given re-bar. So in your project, I believe it would have been possible to do it over 4 days, each leg of the rectangle on a separate day.
Do not use concrete. Use ASTM fine grout. Use retarder to slow set. Specified slump should be 8-11”. Option, use self consolidating grout to to eliminate vibration.
@@MasonDixonAcres you need to go above and beyond minimum code, sir. img1.wsimg.com/isteam/ip/48813098-1f7f-47a8-9ec1-e6ad63bb445e/Insulated%20_Floating_%20Slab%20On%20Grade%20Detail%201%20as.png/:/cr=t:0%25,l:0%25,w:100%25,h:100%25/rs=w:1280
Around 80% of heat is lost in a slab through the perimeter - why would that detail specify a double layer of insulation under but not at the perimeter? If you are going to double up.. the perimeter is where you need to do it..
@@MasonDixonAcres unless you're building a frost protected slab without a stem wall, this is the proven best design. Perhaps more investigation into the topic on your end will permit you to concede.
@@MasonDixonAcres The perimeter foam acts as a thermal break. A thermal break does not directly increase the R-value of the wall, it helps to improve the overall thermal performance by reducing heat loss or gain through specific, highly *conductive* pathways. The foam under the slab relies on its R value to insulate in a similar way to wall cavity insulation. That is, it's primary function is not a thermal break as it were.
You don't here very many success stories coming from homeowner Crete pours. Not a good diy situation too time sensitive! Keep your head up though all in all you're Killin it! Definitely wise to hire out the slab.
Yeah the slab is a non negotiable! The footing pour was no problem, a few more things in our favor for this wall pour and we would have been good. The show goes on!
Nightmare first experience with concrete on a large scale like this. I think a concrete pump truck with an overhead boom would have been worth the extra cost to save you guys from this. They put the concrete right where you want it quickly and the concrete wouldn't have a horizontal trajectory to it, but only a vertical trajectory right into your wall cavity. Looks like I won't be pouring my stem wall with just a concrete truck and a chute adapter as I had planned. Memorable experience for you guys. Sorry it wasn't more positive.
Number 1 mistake-you should have refused the truck. As the load was already too old. You only have 90 minutes to unload by code and should have to sign a waiver absolving the concrete company of liability if the mix doesn't meet specs, which it obviously didn't. Number 2 wrong technique with the vibrator; you were much too slow. In and out is all that you need to do otherwise all the aggregate settles to the bottom.
I’m way late to the “party” so my advice will be useless to you on this project but maybe someone else will see it and save themselves some of the brain damage you guys have had to endure. Being both trained engineers, you’ve got all the ‘book smarts’ necessary to pull off a relatively simple project like this but what you are lacking, by no fault of yours, is just simple experience. It would be well worth the money to pay 1 person, who does have practical, nuts & bolts, field experience to be there to consult with. You would benefit enormously from having someone like Scott from Essential Craftsman (or myself 😁) to help guide the way on how things actually go together in the field. ALL of the circumstances you’ve run into as well as just means and methods have all been learned before, so you’re unfortunately doing a little wheel reinventing on this project. I understand the satisfaction factor of doing something like this yourself and just figuring things out but I doubt the advice of one person with some know-how would detract significantly from the overall “We did it” feeling desired.
All the details on how much our foundation cost ⬇
www.masondixonacres.com/products/foundation-cost-spreadsheet
I've watched a few of these types of pours (into the cells of the blocks) and I always see disasters with the trucks. It seems like no one has a good experience--although you guys certainly had an all around sh*tty day. I find that the people that mix bag by bag and dump in there by hand, get the best results but it takes a lot longer and it's tedious as hell. Thanks for giving the tips! I'd love to see the full house pour to see how it's done differently the second time.
Thank you both for sharing this story! Even if it was a rough day, you guys honestly handled it all like champs. So proud of you both! 👏
Thank you so much! There will be lots of ups and downs throughout the project, we just have to take it one day at a time.
Wow what a valuable video. I mean when you think of it, it was a rough day but there were so many good lessons learned. Been thinking about building my own house so this is such an interesting, detailed perspective. Massive respect to you guys and look forward to learning from more of your videos.
Glad it was helpful! Definitely a good lesson learned 😄 gotta roll with the punches! Luckily this has been the only somewhat serious injury on the project (knock on wood!)
I really like and support your emphasis on safety. Far too many youtubers are too relaxed regarding PPE. Sure, ideally you shouldn't need a lot of the time, but when things go wrong and you do need it, then you really need it. Concrete is an incredible thing, but there are sooo many variables to consider. An entire module in my construction management degree was just focused on concrete so I know a fair amount about it, but I STILL get nervous on pour days
This was very informative, really love how you gave all of those tips at the end!
Glad it was helpful! Learn from our mistakes!!
Congratulations you guys, you got through it!
Thankfully.. but plenty of life lessons learned the hard way!
In the future you can send the truck back to the batch plant. There is an ASTM standard requiring concrete to be placed within 90 minutes of being mixed with water. Ask to see the ticket when they arrive if it is close or more then 90 minutes send it back and ask for a new load. I have had to do it before on public and commercial jobs.
That is good to know! I bet it was close to the 90 minute mark, probably 30 minutes from plant to first stop, 20 minutes of waiting, and another 20-30 until it arrived
This! Your entire ordeal is on the concrete contractor based on the information provided in the video…if it was clear the delivery address and billing address were different. The driver and company should have sent another truck with fresh mix especially if they screwed up the delivery.
Thanks for sharing your experience - the good and the bad. Because concrete sets so fast and it would be our first time we also will hire out the concrete pour, probably including stem walls if we have any. Thanks for the tips of having water available and good gloves.
Good idea! Thanks for watching!!
I think you're doing a great job.
We appreciate that!!
That's reminded me our first concrete pouring from a concrete pump. Issue was very hot weather outside and concrete was setting too fast. Somehow we managed to get it done 😅
It always seems to work out somehow.. when you feel it starting to firm up it really gets everyone's asses in gear 😂
@@MasonDixonAcres that's so true 😅
You are very welcome! I agree, I think we need a redemption round. Putting into play all of your learned tips to making it successful of course.
Haha thanks again Jim! Round two in a few years 😜
Thanks for sharing
You guys are so cool. Brave as. Ignore the trolls because all offers of advice worth hearing would come from peopl like yourselves that have been their and know your pain or professional peeps who know it’s long earned skills that take time. I say brave because I think it takes a lot to show the downs for the benefit of others but know your gona get as($$)ls bagging on you. Thanks for sharing. I’m subscribing now and looking forward to watching your videos. Thanks again 🤘🤘🤘
Haha much appreciated! We really do try to share the lows, they are just as much of the project as the highs are.
Have vinegar on hand when tiling and grouting as well
Good to know!
Vinegar is your friend as well as rinsing!
We definitely learned that one after the fact 🤣
Why are they filling a block foundation in the place. isn’t that the purpose of block versus form. Am I wrong
I talk about this a little in the video where we built the block walls
I thought I was the only person that had that kind of stuff happen to them.
This sort of stuff happens in construction frequently, you mostly just don't here about it 😁
When you work with concrete is good to have a couple gallons of plain old vinegar. It neutralizes the concrete that gets on your skin then rinse with water😎😎
Concrete Burns use( Waterproof Bandages Transparent Film Dressing Clear Adhesive Bandages Tape Amazon product ) It's the Band-Aid they use on tattoos. I removed a fingerprint from a finger. I taped it up 10 days later no sign of injury. Comes in a variety of sizes
Yep we read about the vinegar after the fact! Just don't put try putting it on after the burn has run its course (ask me how I know..) I have been using good ole Glad saran wrap and it has been working well.
Late to the comments here, but the truck driver could have added quite a bit more water to the mix to slow the cure down. When I was young 12-13 one of my jobs was to water the walls down just before they poured the grout. A dry wall combined with say a 7-8'' slump will set up way faster than you can imagine especially when the sun is out, as you well found out.
Yup that’s about right!
Wet wall would have helped, but adding too much water to the concrete mix will weaken it too much and cause shrinkage cracks.
Don't get your slab sealed. It will be easier and less expensive to epoxy your floor. Also don't go cheap on your epoxy product, make sure it is 100% solids with 0% VOC. GOOD PRODUCT will even cover any small heaving and will even hide cold joints that are filled with backer rod and plain ole caulk. I have dropped starter motors on my floor with no damage to the floor. MEK and laquer thinner are basically the only things that will destroy the coating.
I believe that if this had been done professionally, they would grout the wall with mortar only, and used a pumper, and would have ensured prompt, accurate, and early delivery. If saving money is critical, this type of job can be done with bags of pre-mix and an on-site mixer. I am not saying you should have done it that way.
Yeah in hindsight we would have totally hired a trailer pump! The masons who laid the wall quoted us for grouting but buying this much mix in bags was crazy expensive
@@MasonDixonAcres My assumption in grouting stem walls is that they can tolerate cold joints, given re-bar. So in your project, I believe it would have been possible to do it over 4 days, each leg of the rectangle on a separate day.
Do not use concrete. Use ASTM fine grout. Use retarder to slow set. Specified slump should be 8-11”. Option, use self consolidating grout to to eliminate vibration.
It was grout, yes retardant certainly would have helped here
It seems like the biggest error in this was the mistake from the concrete company going to the wrong address. Did you get any money back from them?
I asked, they wouldn’t budge..
That foam insulation isn't going to do jack.
Well it’s code so you can argue with the IRC 😄
@@MasonDixonAcres you need to go above and beyond minimum code, sir.
img1.wsimg.com/isteam/ip/48813098-1f7f-47a8-9ec1-e6ad63bb445e/Insulated%20_Floating_%20Slab%20On%20Grade%20Detail%201%20as.png/:/cr=t:0%25,l:0%25,w:100%25,h:100%25/rs=w:1280
Around 80% of heat is lost in a slab through the perimeter - why would that detail specify a double layer of insulation under but not at the perimeter? If you are going to double up.. the perimeter is where you need to do it..
@@MasonDixonAcres unless you're building a frost protected slab without a stem wall, this is the proven best design. Perhaps more investigation into the topic on your end will permit you to concede.
@@MasonDixonAcres The perimeter foam acts as a thermal break. A thermal break does not directly increase the R-value of the wall, it helps to improve the overall thermal performance by reducing heat loss or gain through specific, highly *conductive* pathways. The foam under the slab relies on its R value to insulate in a similar way to wall cavity insulation. That is, it's primary function is not a thermal break as it were.
You don't here very many success stories coming from homeowner Crete pours. Not a good diy situation too time sensitive! Keep your head up though all in all you're Killin it! Definitely wise to hire out the slab.
Yeah the slab is a non negotiable! The footing pour was no problem, a few more things in our favor for this wall pour and we would have been good. The show goes on!
Nightmare first experience with concrete on a large scale like this.
I think a concrete pump truck with an overhead boom would have been worth the extra cost to save you guys from this. They put the concrete right where you want it quickly and the concrete wouldn't have a horizontal trajectory to it, but only a vertical trajectory right into your wall cavity.
Looks like I won't be pouring my stem wall with just a concrete truck and a chute adapter as I had planned.
Memorable experience for you guys. Sorry it wasn't more positive.
Yeah get a pump! Even a small trailer pump would have done the job much more easily.
You put your pants inside your boots than duck tap around the top.
Number 1 mistake-you should have refused the truck. As the load was already too old. You only have 90 minutes to unload by code and should have to sign a waiver absolving the concrete company of liability if the mix doesn't meet specs, which it obviously didn't. Number 2 wrong technique with the vibrator; you were much too slow. In and out is all that you need to do otherwise all the aggregate settles to the bottom.
I’m way late to the “party” so my advice will be useless to you on this project but maybe someone else will see it and save themselves some of the brain damage you guys have had to endure.
Being both trained engineers, you’ve got all the ‘book smarts’ necessary to pull off a relatively simple project like this but what you are lacking, by no fault of yours, is just simple experience. It would be well worth the money to pay 1 person, who does have practical, nuts & bolts, field experience to be there to consult with. You would benefit enormously from having someone like Scott from Essential Craftsman (or myself 😁) to help guide the way on how things actually go together in the field. ALL of the circumstances you’ve run into as well as just means and methods have all been learned before, so you’re unfortunately doing a little wheel reinventing on this project. I understand the satisfaction factor of doing something like this yourself and just figuring things out but I doubt the advice of one person with some know-how would detract significantly from the overall “We did it” feeling desired.